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SUNDAY STATEMANTS - NO 1
This post is a solution that I have reached few days ago – due to having almost no time to create posts daily (while I really want to share my option), I thought of making one (longer) post on every Sunday (which I have mostly free – except fashion months) and combine everything that happened in Menswear during the past week – let’s see how It works out. So,
What would be the better start for the new format than Paris Men’s Fashion Week, that has just recently finished (on Sunday according to official FHCM schedule but actually on Monday with JACQUEMUS show).
FACTS
Runway Shows: 60 (according to official schedule)
Presentations: 27 (according to offial schedule)
Total Looks: Around 3500
Yes, when you combine the numbers, there’re fascinating results – there were around 3500 looks offered – just for Men, just in Paris – that is around 12000 pieces of clothing, 3500 pairs of shoes, around 2000 accessories – a lot! Especially considering the fact that few brands produce very identical outfits (in terms of fabrics, styling, vibes) and there’s a rapidly rising competition at Men’s fashion market. Thanks god Paris is the most diversified of them all and I could name like like only 7-8 brands that does not really fit in the schedule (compared to other 50 brands) – either they look similar, or I don’t get them (my problem?).
PALOMO SPAIN (18 June, 11:00)
The SS 2020 (that already sounds quite major itself) has started on Tuesday, 18th June, 11:00 AM with Palomo Spain (who returned in Paris after previous season’s try in NY) with some beautiful dresses – yes, you read it correctly. Designer thinks that none of the specific garments are made exclusilvey for any gender and that he sees many boys that could rock those chiffon garments – a significant part of the collection that was inspired by Pompeii.
BODE (18 June, 12:00)
Emily Adams Bode has just recently won CFDA Award (Emerging Designer of the Year) and there she was at 12:00 AM (straight after Palomo) in Paris, sending the collection that was inspired by her family’s history as wagonmakers for Circus in the early 1900s. She literally looked at the outfits from century ago and re-made them to keep appropriate with time.
AMI (18 June, 20:00)
My favorite Parisian house is becoming bigger and bigger every season (and it little bit worries me to be honest, strange no? Here’s why: what I always loved about AMI is that it’s one-off menswear-only brands that produces timeless men’s clothes in a very affordable prices (and in a perfect quality), everything in the collections always feels modern (with bit of a twist), the styling is always impeccable with unexpected colors combined together BUT! I kind of missed this in the latest collection, shown at Grand Palais, it felt little bit too dark and serious (especially for Summer collection), I’ve missed color and the sense of freshness. I did like what was shown, there is a lot I would wear myself (especially now when Black has become favorite of mine) but I kind of think I could find many of those pieces at other rival brands, I understand that now brand established itself and it just becomes matter of brand loyality, when you decide where to buy regular black trench coat - that’s where AMI is headed now I guess.
ACNE STUDIOS (19 June, 15:30)
With Ambition to Create Novel Expressions, Jonny Johansson (brand founder) presented the collection that felt little bit weird for me (a huge brand fan tbh). I totally loved the opening with beige shirt, styled with yellow scarf, but then I did not quite get printed cycling shorts, or lace insets, or pvc details (and bit more, tbh). It was kind of everything but kind of nothing notable (Luke Leith from Vogue Runway agrees), and I felt disappointed, especially after few very, very strong seasons and increasing fame (after so many years on the market). At least, some great blazers were there (thank god!).
J.W. ANDERSON (19 June, 13:00)
It’s a second time for Jonathan in Paris, after moving his namesake label from London (that probably made his 2 out of 3 famed iPhones busier than before). As one of the pioneers who pushed gender-fluid shapes since the very beginning of the career, designer has put signature pieces on the runway - including dresses worn by male models. Blazers and coats had wide shoulder extensions and pants included giant fringe insets. Some of the looks could be well-fitted at his Loewe (the show was day after this in the calendar) but this still feels ”harder” and more personal.
Y/PROJECT (19th June, 14:30)
Y/Project shows feel like a hard mathematical induction, you need a time to realize the logic behind and “solve” it, or maybe you don’t. Glenn Martens once again proved that there’s no stopping of him and he is cementing the brand aesthetic with gigantic steps every single season. For SS 20 (after showing previous Menswear at Pitti) distortion and asymmetric proportions became even more solid and serious. How can you not love the incredible outerwear, tailored blazers, knitwear and jaw-dropping denim pants – each of them proving that you can combine ugly and beautiful in a very smart way. One could analyze every single look in details, but I bet it would take a lots and lots and lots of time. Additional drama was brought by Bizet's "L'amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle" in one of the Parisian churches. It’s clear that brand’s approach to clothes are not welcomed just by fashion insiders or avid trend followers anymore, it’s just for everyone who love “smart”, fashion-forward and beautiful outfits (even if most of them are everything but classic understanding of beauty). There’s always a surprise cut or detail hidden in most of the Y/Project pieces, once you buy the garment, you get the freedom and possibility to wear it on your own way – I’ve seen myself three men wearing same Y/Project pieces in a completely different way in a same day.
VALENTINO (19 June, 17:30)
Pierpaolo Piccioli is keeping the youthful attitude with the insertion of loud graphic prints (this time deisgned by Roger Dean) at Valentino Men’s collections (continued from previous season’s UNDERCOVER collaboration) while keeping brand staple shapes and cuts and not following any of the ongoing trends as much, even the VLTN logo was gone this time (which makes me very happy), replaced with single vintage V sign. The signature camouflage sneaker (my first ever most expensive fashion purchase back in 2012) got upgrade shown alongside with new shapes. Long live Mr. Pierpaolo!
RAF SIMONS (19 June, 21:00)
Raf Simons clearly is not done with America. After leaving CALVIN KLEIN (end of 2018), it’s his second outing in Paris and I think he used this time to digest everything then to express all in his latest collection. It was very Raf, I feel like he was just being honest putting his feelings and thoughts as motifs (likes of: STONED AMERICA, etc) and showing that he was disappointed with America.
LOUIS VUITTON (20 June, 14:30)
Virgil Abloh has invited guests at Place Dauphine (Remember Carrie Bradshow walking there in SATC) and offered LV branded wooden green benches, crepes and ice creams, alongside with the beautiful collection. It was clear – Virgil has settled at the house in a year, already has several signature shapes (and lots of accessories) and as he mentioned he just (or “just”) wants to present collections that will be consistent, will help more men express themselves (and he has a huge fandom in that area) and he won’t push the exact specific inspirations (remember Michael Jackson case from previous season?). Show featured some mind-blowing floral pieces (in a form of signature harness, hat and various embroidery) modern tailoring (note: the colors), lots of mixtures of work wear with formal wear and many, many bags (some really hardcore shapes). Originally, show was planned around Notre Dame, but it had to be changed due to the recent fire (although the cathedral was still present as a motif on some of the pieces). In a few words – there’s no stopping for Virgil Abloh and his “work”.
DRIES VAN NOTEN (20 June, 16:30)
I can never describe my exact feelings about Dries. It means and express so much of everything for me. I just let clothes speak themselves – out of this world beauty, that is all things modern, masculine, sexy, sensual, rebellious, stylish - just b e a u t I f u l. Sometimes I cried…
VETEMENTS (20 June, 20:00)
I, myself predicted year ago that Vetements could go to McDonald’s one day - and it actually happened today. Guests went to Champs-Elysees branch of the restaurant (biggest one in Paris) to see the show that did not really shock anyone but I guess still brought the excitement to them. Show featured all things Capitalism and more - re-worked famous logos (Likes of Heineken, Vodafone, Internet Explorer to name a few), police-branded bombers, signature flower prints and awkward quotes - everything VETEMENTS has became known For. After previous season’s dark extravaganza (my least favorite show of the brand), they kind of got back to the roots and put everyone’s favorite parody and sarcasm backed pieces. Does it felt new? Ofc No, but still you do not get the fashion show at McDonald’s everyday (or at all) and condom as an invitation, so the mission that means making fashion more fun and sarcastic (but still sell it expensive) was again completed. One of the most interesting quotes that Demna Gvasalia has mentioned to Sarah Mower_ is that he always wanted to have his own celebration at McDonalds since 1997, when McD has opened in Tbilisi, Georgia (and I also remember that very day like it was yesterday, how happy I was to hold Happy Meal menu in my hands there) but he could complete it oy now, in Paris. I can’t stop loving the Gvasalias, for making my country on an international map by showcasing its darkest secrets to everyone!
BERLUTI (21 June, 13:00)
It’s Kris Van Assche’s 2nd runway show at Berluti and we kind of see where he is going - positioning brand as impeccable (quality-wise) tailor-maker with an youthful, modern touch (mostly expressed in vibrant colors of formal clothing alongside with layered styling). Featuring older models on the runway is a message that Berluti does not forget about mature customers but wants them to look modern. Despite the very strong comptetition in this particular niche (Dior Men's and Louis Vuitton Men's in the same holding as Berluti, LVMH), there's always a need for a good (and fashion-forward) tailoring.
JIL SANDER (21 June, 15:00)
If you thought Jil Sander could not get more sensitive and delicate, here you go with latest collection, as designers Lucie and Luke Meiers (wife and husband) mentioned in an interview with Alex Badia, they are showing their vision of tailoring, how they feel about the it and offering new ways of wearing it and it just feels right! I kind of feel the duo’s takeover at Jil Sander is still underrated and they are actual creators of the modern but absolutely timeless fashion!
SSS WORLD COPR (20 June, 11:00)
t’s a daddies world! Justin O’Shea keeps the dandy aesthetic and crazy prints on top of his brand, always showcasing at the fanciest locations of Paris - this time at Ritz, casting some really hot models who are actually various sport (boxing among them) athletes and maybe thats why all the extravagant prints felt more real and wearable than before. And I bet many of you saw the O’Shea serving the guests himself by champagne at the start and taking the bow while he was riding a bike - very casual, indeed.
DIOR MENS (21 June, 18:00)
Mr. Kim Jones was man of the hour (or the season) once again. He killed it 3rd time. With his couture-approach to the Men’s clothing (with continuous revisiting Dior’s women archives, especially Haute Couture alongside with John Galliano creations) and collaboratiosn with the hottest creative minds of the moment, Jones is just writing down history of modern menswear. This time it was Daniel Arsham, whom Kim contacted year ago with a request and to put his unique approach to the Dior pieces. Known formanipulating and reinterpreting existing materials and structures, Arsham has clearly engaged with Dior aesthetics and we have got some really extreme accessories (with Yoon Ambush included in the work). Appears, it’s not first time for Arsham working for Dior – back in 2005, Hedi Slimane commissioned him to design Dior’ Homme’s LA flagship. Wll, I just think of time, when they let Kim Jones take over entire Dior house (with rumors on Maria Grazia heading to Fendi after SS 20 show).
GmbH (21st June, 19:00)
Did you notice the evil eye? Hard not to! Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby literally decided to ”protect” models (and then customers) from the misfortune but making it look fashionable and wearable. Featuring the usual diverse and exotic casting, GmBH presented their best to date (imo) collection at the National Institute of Young Deaf People in Paris. It was all things GmbH does the best - tailoring mixed with sportswear paired with both formal and Asics collaboration shoes - and everything being as vegan as possible. Designer duo rapidly took the spot for one of the most anticipated shows at PFW and with every season they are showing a very logical development in all areas. They’ve easily made some of their signatures well-recognisable: would this be a double-zipper denim or their logo-branded pieces and now the broader introduction of accessories, they will surely strengthen their space in buyers order sheets and customers wallets - and the strange magical effect of the ”evil eye” should actually play the significant role.
SIES MARJAN (22 June, 13:00)
Sander Lak is the latest designer to move from NY to Paris (a step that has not been effective for Proenza or Rodarte, but still works for Altuzarra) and take Opera Bastille as a location for its debut Parisian show. Starting from knitted jampsuit (season’s trend) continued with beautiful segment of beiges (denim and cotton) and colorful crocodile-effect faux leather outwear, show also included variations on zebra print. Most of the pieces felt quite gender-fluid - all the pieces that were worn by male models could be well put on 6 females that also walked the show. Except SS 2020, show also featured Fall 2019 capsule pieces that will be available for purchase now. It all felt very modern and easily wearable - everything we all need now.
OFFICINE GENERALE (23 June, 10:00)
Peter Maheo always serves us with delightful Sunday morning breakfasts in Paris – no, there are no croissants or chocola-chauds, but some really chic Men’s clothes. I could spend entire Spring wearing the show’s opening look (mint tailored duo), or the second look, and third, and all of the 45 others. I love how Officine Generale has kept it consistent and doe not tries hard to present gimmicks that you can never wear – I just want them all!
LANVIN (23 June, 11:00)
After all the past year’s shake-overs at LANVIN , it seems that brand is on the way to settle and reboots itself with a fresh new page. Will this become a successful book tome? Only time will tell, but the foreword looks promising. It was a first Men’s show for house’s new creative director, Bruno Sialelli (who went from Loewe) and what he presented to audience made everyone think about only one thing – holidays! Staged around one of Parisian public pools, the show featured everything (and more) you associate with holidays – nautical stripes, bucket hats, sailor collars and even sleeping bags – white and blue shades dominated. LANVIN men now also wears printed sequin dress, azur intarsia knit jacket on a naked body and lots of baggy jumpsuits – and it all feels very young and naïve.
ALYX (23 June, 19:00)
Can we call it the coolest show of the season? It just amazes me how Matthew Williams managed to put the brand on top of the current fashion industry in such a short time. I guess the quality that you can feel all around the brand and a dedication that Matthew and her wife Jennifer Williams (who walked the show actually) put in their brand (they have moved from NY to Ferrara, Italy to oversee brand’s production in the local factories). The collection featured sharp and sophisticated shapes. Started with classy suits and quite sexy (women’s especially) looks, show continued with signature streetwear vibe, but it also felt very, very sophisticated and elegant (and that’s not wrong for streetwear, at all), outerwear was to die for - crocodile effect rubber-like coat just nailed it!
CELINE (23 June, 20:00)
With the second standalone Men’s show under the label, Hedi Slimane has presented “nostalgia for things I probably have never known” (read embroidery on a tote bag). It was classic Hedi (and it’s now a definition of particular style, not a single designer aesthetic), classic 70’s but felt still modern for me (and many argue on that). There’s clearly a huge market for what he is doing and with Saint Laurent making shifts to detach itself from Hedi (and CELINE as a brand), sales should be heading to the desired peak (LVMH plans to double brand sales with the help of Hedi in a short time).
JACQUEMUS (24 June, 17:00)
Do we need to say anything more on this show?
- - -
it was a season of SS 2019 (in June 2018) that made a huge breakthrough in Menswear – that was when Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh both had a debut seasons at Dior and Louis Vuitton and when Raf Simons returned to Paris – the craze that you could feel in Paris those days was insane, that was when everyone agreed that Menswear has its notable importance and it’s only gonna rise with every new season – with SS 2020 being fantastic continuation for that.
Oh and almost every designer mentioned how they are trying to be more sustainable, nature-friendly, gluten-free, etc…
#STATEMANT#PFW#PARIS FASHION WEEK#MENSWEAR#RUNWAY#AMI#BERLUTI#LOUIS VUITTON#DIOR#KIM JONES#VIRGIL ABLOH#YPROJECT#GLENN MARTENS#VETEMENTS#DEMNA GVASALIA#DRIES VAN NOTEN#JW ANDERSON#VALENTINO#RAF SIMONS#CELINE#HEDI SLIMANE#LANVIN#JIL SANDER#SIES MARJAN#GMBH#ALYX#OFFICINE GENERALE#SS20#SS2020#SS 20
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WHERE TO SHOP THE BEST MENSWEAR IN PARIS
Since the closure of the fashion world’s most iconic store COLETTE in Paris, we all need a fixture, where to get more or less same experience of great shopping – a space that will include everything from fashion to music to food and some really non-necessary-but-still-must-have pieces of shit art. Find below some fabulous spots to shop best of Menswear (and much more) in Paris.
ARCHIVES 18-20 (20 Rue des Archives, 75004)
The concept store, located at Le Marais, which I’ve discovered year ago, during a casual walk on the Rue des Archives, stocks a perfect selection of Menswear (from the brands like MARNI and CDG to Dr, Martens & Officine Générale), rare editions of Instax cameras or phone cases, home décor and grooming essentials. Small tea-shop and café is also located at the corner of the store, to keep you warm and relaxed during the craze of fashion week.
GALERIES LAFAYETTE HOMME (Boulevard Haussmann,75009)
All-time classic! 5 enormous floors full of just and only menswear, has every possible brand that offers any kind of clothing, shoes or accessories that any kind of man can wear. It’s one of the most iconic locations of Paris, no less than Eiffel Tower, for me! Count at least 3 full hours (or even more) for a full tour inside the venue.
PRINTEMPS DE L’HOMME (64 Boulevard Haussmann,75009)
A newly opened men’s department of the renowned Parisian store Printemps, has some exclusive pieces, mostly from the buzziest men’s designers around the world and during the sales (which is happening during the Mens Fashion Week) has a lot of fabulous offerings in very affordable prices.
LE BON MARCHÉ (24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007)
If you are looking for absolutely perfect selection of casual and classy wardrobe, with the touches of contemporary, Le Bon Marche’s -1 Floor is the place, I can’t not to mention their incredible Sale table, where you could grab Balenciaga pants for 95 EUR or Dries Coat for 250 EUR (which is a complete steal, believe me)
BHV MARAIS HOMME (36 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004)
A traditional department store, that has a separate 4 floor building just for us, for Hommes, has renovated its first floor and dedicated space to the brands like AMI and Études, while carrying a classic French brands like Sandro or The Kooples on the second floor and likes of Ralph Lauren and Hilfiger on the third. First floor also has a one great table-corner for those jewelry lovers with fabulous rings and bracelets in affordable prices.
THE BROKEN ARM (12 Rue Perrée, 75003)
Think of Streetwear, Vetements, Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy but also go for a Celine, Jacquemus and many more – a very strict selection of the brands, with its cozy atmosphere and a café around the corner, The Broken Arm is definitely a go-to location any time you go to Paris.
L'ECLAIREUR (10 Rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008)
Located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, L’Eclaireur founders stock everything you need for you fabulous fashionable life – from the exclusive Gucci loafers to Fornasetti candles.
TOM GREYHOUND PARIS (19 Rue de Saintonge, 75003)
One of the hottest spots at Le Marais region (which is arguably the most interesting in terms of great menswear shopping) is a Parisian branch of the Soul based original store. A place where high-street meets a classy luxe.
SHINZO (39 Rue Étienne Marcel, 75001)
For all the hypebeasts around, dear sneaker addicts, they do have those pairs that you have never seen in real life and if you are lucky (not like me having size 43 EU) you can come back with some “legendary” purchase from Shinzo.
ROYAL CHEESE (113 Rue de Turenne, 75003)
Quintessential French Fashion – those heavy fabric blazers, leather biker jackets and high-quality turtlenecks, alongside with ankle boots – your fix for a cool French-guy look.
NOUS (48 Rue Cambon, 75001)
A relatively new store is already called a “New Colette” (a sort of), main reason being it’s founders – former employees of Colette - Sébastien Chapelle & Marvin Dein. A store, which is focused mostly on Unisex & Menswear, will also carry high-tech gadgets, watches, glasses, accessories and books. Although space is very small at the moment, it carries a lot of interesting stuff in quite affordable price range.
#PERCEPTIONS#MENSWEAR#SHOPPING#PFW#PFWM#PARIS#STATEMANT#GALERIES LAFAYETTE#LE BON MARCHE#TOM GREYHOUND#THE BROKEN ARM#PARIS FASHION WEEK
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WHERE TO EAT DURING FASHION WEEK IN PARIS
Besides a great shopping that is synonymous to Paris (read my guide here), the city has quite a few spots where everyone (or just everyone from Fashion industry) wants to dine, or just have a coffee break.
I’ve been to various different spots in Paris, and tasted almost everything that people recommend, I have to say I’m not that much satisfied with what Parisian restaurants offer in terms of food (I mean I love eating and I love big portions) but on the other side, they give you a chance to dine next to Kendall Jenner or Bella Hadid, Karl Lagefeld or JW Anderson. So, below my selection of the go-to spots during Fashion week.
HOTEL COSTES (239-241 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001)
Ultimate destination during fashion week, even if you can’t manage to rent a room here, restaurant on the 1st floor is always open (well, if you manage to book on time, in advance) – you can casually sit next table with Kate Moss or Naomi Campbell, inside or much-desired (on any season) courtyard of the hotel, have one of their signature fruit salads (12 or 22 EUR) and see everyone who is anyone in fashion! It gets especially spicy during fashion week late nights, when Kendall Jenner dances on the Mert Alas & Riccardo Tisci table with Joan Smalls. Staff girls could be actual Saint Laurent models with their mini-dresses and skinny legs, but the usual French snobbish attitude (which has already become one of the signatures of the French restaurants) is here.
Note: Don’t try to take pictures with celebs there, they hate it and staff is also not-welcomed with such actions, cause they explain that “stars come here just to relax and not to be bothered”. Also note, that there’s no way they will give you seat outside, at the courtyard (which is center of the restaurant) if you book table in advance and you can’t book anything day before during fashion week. So, wake up early in the morning and book immediately!
LE CASTIGLIONE (235 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001)
Located at the corner of Rue Saint-Honore, café Castiglione is one of the busiest spots, especially during lunch-time during fashion week. 8 tables that are outside (and many more inside) give you a chance to see and be seen on the main “fashion” street of the city. Go for a Veal Milanese (29 EUR) and French Toast with Chocolate (12 EUR) for a good fix.
RITZ PARIS (15 Place Vendôme, 75001)
The legendary hotel (opened in 1898) located at the very center of Paris, Place Vendome, is the most perfect definition of the word “luxe” – imagine that Coco Chanel lived there for around 30 years. Even though a night there costs minimum of 1200 EUR, you can always go to their restaurant for a tea break (55 EUR) or just a nice evening drinks at Hemingway Bar (pictured below), where drink prices are around 30-40% more expensive than usually, but you pay for the experience and atmosphere there. But if you decide to have a dinner there, think of 200-300 EUR, per person! They don’t usually allow you take pictures in a lobby, but you can always try and then check-in there (well if you have that desire after paying that much in a food).
L’AVENUE (41 Avenue Montaigne, 75008)
I think everyone who is a little bit interested in fashion, has heard of L’Avenue, located at the most luxury shopping street of Paris, Avenue Montaigne. After you have already shopped at Celine, Gucci, Saint Laurent & Chanel, you probably need to have a break (before going to Dior and Louis Vuitton) and here it is the restaurant for you. It can be difficult to get a table there (but it was more difficult like 2 years ago, then now) but you can always ask. It’s Kim and Kanye’s ultimate favorite spot in Paris, or you can see Rihanna, Gigi Hadid or Justin Bieber having their lunch next to you. During lunchtime – save around 50 EUR, while bit more for a dinner (70-80).
LA BELLE EPOQUE (36 Rue des Petits Champs, 75002)
A Parisian cabaret restaurant where you can experience the delights of French cooking while watching the French Cancan! The cuisine is traditional French with some original elements and after a great quality meal you can sit back at your table and enjoy the show. You can always spot Mario Testino, Alber Elbaz or Miroslava Duma having dinner near you.
CAFÉ DE FLORE (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006)
One of the most iconic cafes, in the world! This legendary café (since 1880) is located in the most “intellectual” and cultural district of Paris - Boulevard Saint-Germain. A favorite spot for celebrities, like Kate Moss, has also been a go-to spot for many writers, musicians and artists during it’s almost 140 years of existence. Menu is quite limited there, I mean it’s perfect for a breakfast or lunch but may feel bit light for a dinner, but most people don’t really go to eat there, you just feel Parisian sitting under the sun, with black RayBans, watching your fellow citizens come and go. Save around 15-20 EUR for a breakfast or a lunch, but I bet you’ll order more of their delicious croissants or cappuccino, so take a bit more.
LA SOCIETE (4 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006)
A luxe restaurant. Located very close to the above-mentioned Café De Flore, is perfect for a high-quality service dinner, inside the dark atmosphere of the main room, you can’t clearly see what are you eating, but these low-light candles keep the entire intimacy. It’s not a big restaurant, so think of advance booking, to have a chance to dine next to Guram Gvasalia, Tim Blanks and many other fashion’s heavy-weights. Same pricing as to Hotel Costes or L’Avenue.
CAVIAR KASPIA (17 Place de la Madeleine, 75008)
I’m sure you have already spotted this food on Instagram – potatoes with black caviar – that is happening at Caviar Kaspia, located at Haussmann Building. During the fashion week, the space is completely occupied by fashion insiders, you can’t really spot models or celebs there, but major photographers, stylists or buyers, all go there for a fun.
FERDI (32 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001)
Likes of Kim Kardashian and Kanye West go there for their famous burgers, they open at 6:30 evening and close at midnight, due to the limited amount of tables (less than you can think of) booking is recommended few days ahead (during fashion week, even 2-3 weeks earlier)
RUC (159 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001)
Located in front of the Louvre, at Rue Saint-Honore, it’s a perfect spot for a evening dinner or a lunch, especially sitting outside where you can explore everyone who is walking coming from 4-5 different streets of the area. You get a good 3-course dinner for around 60-70 EUR, bit less for a lunch and around 20-25 EUR for a breakfast.
FARNESINA (9 Rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008)
Not the usual fashion-insiders destination, but if you want to taste some really delicious Italian food and you are near Concorde or Saint-Honore (where all the fashion happens), you can go anytime of the day and have a great pizza or a pasta and no one will take your attention from the meal, well maybe just Rihanna.
LE PAIN DU QUOTIDIEN (18-20 Rue des Archives, 75004 / 18 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 / 25 Rue de Varenne, 75007)
Well, we all know where to go for a “healthier” food and those who love variations of eggs (like me) or a unexpected jam mixtures, this is a perfect fix! Prices are affordable – breakfast fix could be 10-12 EUR, while lunch will cost you 20-22 EUR.
BOUILLON CHARTIER (7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009)
And after all this, if you ran out of money, you’re hungry but you don’t want to go McDonalds (and I don’t recommend, Parisian McD is one of the dirtiest what I’ve seen around Europe), just go to Boullon Chartier and eat as much as you can, a tasty food in extremely affordable prices, while still keeping French taste and feel.
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ABOUT ME
Beka Gvishiani, 28
Founder, ARIALBOLD
PR, ANOUKI
Tbilisi, Georgia
PAST : I’m not a new in this fashion blogging space – back in 2011, when I was obsessed with fashion magazines and collected them from all over the world, I’ve created blog GLOSSY NEWSSTAND, which quickly became popular and I had 1,8 million views under blogs Analytics after 1 year and total of 5 million in 3 years of existence! It mainly focused on sharing exclusive content from fashion print media and everyone from Naomi Campbell to Rihanna shared my blog links at least once through their social media. I had special collaboration with LOVE Magazine and Katie Grand, when they gave me a chance to review several fashion magazine editions on their website, truly a statemAnt for me!
Then I’ve moved to other side of fashion (read below) and did not really have time to continue posting, since I was the only author of the blog.
PRESENT : It was July of 2013, when I started working with ANOUKI (from the very first day of the brand establishment), I was the only employee (alongside with brand founder Anouki) in a management for a long, long time (doing all things needed from pr to sales), for 5 years we did a lot (for real), reached to many dreams and goals, but then I decided I wanted to do more, so my and my partner created creative and production agency ARIALBOLD and we help local fashion players create interesting content. However, I do still work for ANOUKI (now as a PR & Communications manager), cause it still means a lot for me.
FUTURE : Now, I’ve finally managed to go back to my old Tumblr page and give new look to it. It’s like a pilot for the moment, I plan to develop everything more technically in upcoming months, but for the moment that’s what it is, and it’s all done in those 4 free hours a day that I have besides work and sleep! From now on I want to share my journey with you. I’m super lucky to have a chance of experiencing so many amazing things during last years - from meeting with Anna Wintour and her telling me: “My name is Anna, what’s your name?”, dancing at the Valentino parties hand-in-hands with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Anna Dello Russo, being in Irina Shayk’s bedroom (also, literally!), or having hugs from Bella Hadid, Valentino Garavani and Alber Elbaz, sitting front row at Dior with Hollywood stars and having Tim Blanks complimenting about my outfit – it’s been a absolutely amazing experience for me and I want to share to those fashion-enthusiast boys & girls like me, who dream of having something common with fashion, to find out more about this absolutely incredible industry. I only hope that this journey continues and brings more exciting moments in my life! (And if you want to see all those moments before it appears here, go for an Instagram here).
Ok, you could be bored now, but I just can’t help myself and love to talk and talk, and talk more & even more, especially about fashion! See you in my posts, that I hope will be much more precise and not a mere talk!
Beka Gvishiani
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NEWLY FOUND ATTITUDE - VERSACE MENS FALL 2019
“It’s a collection for the guy who doesn’t look at his abs,” - Donatella Versace declared in an interview with Alexander Fury (Financial Times) while speaking of her latest Versace Menswear Fall/Winter 2019 collection, presented in Milan on 13th January, evening.
I’ve spotted Emily Ratajkowski at Milan’s cafeteria on Saturday morning and only word that came to my mind was “Versace”! I was right, she actually walked the show later at the evening where Men’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection was presented alongside with women’s Pre-Fall.
Anticipation was high at Milan’s shows and in-between lunches during the day, everyone was eager to see what would Donatella Versace present with her first menswear show, since the acquisition by Capri Holdings (she already show Pre-Fall in New York, but the show was planned long before the sale). There was an exclusive interview with the diva designer at Financial Times (the day before show) where she complained about people’s comments that “Versace sold its soul to Michael Kors”. Donatella: “I don’t know why people thought Versace is becoming like Michael Kors? A medium, lower line. I mean with all due respect to Michael Kors . . . ” And she proved this today, with one of the most extravagant Men’s collections she has done.
There were no muscles or naked bodies on the runway, continuing his Spring 2019 men’s collection about rule-breaking men, designer expanded the statement further for Fall. Show started with the (very hot-of-the-moment, cc Elio) harness print t-shirt, continued with black leather separates (some of them revealing sport short waists worn inside),
then Kaia Gerber and Bella Hadid walked down, leopard (ultimate menswear trend of the season) came in not only the form of fabulous fur coat but the male model also sported leopard-pattern hair(!)
colors came in the form of various yellow outwear pieces, some of the suits had the vibrant feathers layered
and then, Ford? No, not that Ford (Tom). But the actual Ford - the American automaker. First sighting of the infamous logo was on a white hoodie, smaller version then appeared on some trousers, shirts, leather jacket and mini-skirts (latter for a women). Can we count this particular collaboration as an echo of Versace’s new, American ownership? Donatella did not comment on this yet.
At the end, show featured classic Versace print silk shirts and black tailored tailoring worn with none the less but colorful jersey shorts (my favorite, of them all!)
Accessories included mostly gold and leather mix necklaces, bracelets, safety pins, logo print scarves, socks and cross body bags in various colors of leather and prints. Ru Paul and Maria Callas were present in the form of sound.
This collection (men’s ready-to-wear business has a similar ration to women’s at the Versace sales) is for someone who does sport a classy suit, runs a business but is ready for experiment himself, get into the new era, feel more freedom and power: "This newly found attitude gives him the freedom and security to ignore conventional norms around beauty, and even more so, around masculinity” - Donatella mentioned. “Only a confident man is able to see beyond the status quo and challenge it” - we are in for this!
FULL COLLECTION IMAGES / VIDEO
#STATEMANT#OBSESSIONS#PERCEPTIONS#VERSACE#FALL WINTER 2019#FW 19#MFW#MILAN FASHION WEEK#MENSWEAR#RUNWAY#DONATELLA VERSACE
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PUNK! - NEIL BARRETT FALL 2019
For his 20th anniversary show, Neil Barrett decided to go forward into the future, rather than looking back to the past - but it still definitely felt special than any recent collections, cause Barrett went Punk this time.
“Punk means Britain!” - says Barrett : “There’s the idea of second or third generation people from all over the world who were actually born in Britain, so my narrative was this idea of bringing together, retaining traces of their ancestry, heritage, patterns, fabrics and designs and then mashing it all together.”
Show started with black outfits having Tokyo’s Shinjuku district prints on, continued with outwear sporting animal print collars (with show-stopping leopard print fur coat among them - a trend migrated from women’s to men’s this season) and separates worn inside, various shades of red appeared at the last section (most of them with animal accents yet again), corduroy also was also well-presented (with some Neil’s signature-cut pants).
With 53 looks (out of which 7 was women’s) Neil Barret sends out his fans and customers to the never-before-explored territory for them. For someone like me, who loves Barrett’s signature classy pieces with a twist, all of the craze still felt very sophisticated. It was definitely a most elegant punk I’ve ever seen.
FULL COLLECTION IMAGES / VIDEO
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HIDDEN TREASURE - Y/PROJECT MENS FALL 2019
When Dominican friars, Fra Sisto Fiorentino & Fra Ristoro da Camp designed the infamous Santa Maria Novella in Florence, back in 13th century, I’m sure they would never thought that their creation would serve as a location for a fashion show and especially with the lights shut down not to make the insanely beautiful interior visible to the audience. Y/Project just did that.
Ever since I’ve heard that Y/Project would be next guest designer at Pitti (with Fall 2019 Menswear collection), I was intrigued to see what would Glenn Martens (Creative Director at Y/Project) bring to the city and how his love for so called “de-constructed" fashion would mix with the well-constructed atmosphere (playing with words, ha). We all know (from pre-show interviews) that Martens had surprise planned for this particular show but what we’ve got was...unexpected. At the entrance of the Santa Maria Novella church, all the guests were given small torches - a very helpful accessory to walk safely through the dark halls of the ancient church. Lights never appeared, not even after the start of the actual show - so guests had to point their torchers to the walking models to reveal the outfits (genius!). Even if it was hard to define entire looks, everyone put their own torchers to the specific parts of the outfits and made some details stand out. Despite the lack of the light, we still noticed everything Y/Project is master at - there were signature re-worked pants and sweats, tartan knitwear, tulle turtlenecks and monochrome tracksuits. Within all these playful separates, tailored pieces stood out (a growing accent on this category could also be an echo to the Italy’s sartorial heritage) - first it was grey coat, then pink and beige trenches, then all elevated to double breasted striped suit and tartan coat with mint suit (worn with loose fit black shearling leather on top) at the end, black suit with violet fleece top looked uber-cool.
New categories - men’s footwear and bags also made an appearance. Shoes included some suede camel wader boots (with pants tucked in!), square-toed ankles and some dress shoes - “There’s been so much focus on sportswear,” Martens told to Footwear News, “which is why we didn’t want to do sportswear shoes and went for a more classic, refined look, just like the tailoring”.
Even if Y/Project’s presence at Pitti Uomo is kind of a declaration of their growing Menswear category (which is also proved by numbers), still, womenswear looks dominated the runway (28 out of total 53, with men’s 23) - although many of them being a unisex silhouette (look at this fab camel coat).
About the decision to accept Pitti’s invitation, Glenn Martens told to Vogue: “Obviously it is Pitti, the biggest menswear platform, which has hosted the most amazing designers in the past, and it was nice to be part of that. It’s an honor to be here. There are so many incredible possibilities to present in Florence...they are giving you the keys to the city. Also, being European...it’s very special, so much part of the culture when I was growing up; the Renaissance, the history…. Pitti is also a very chill platform. All the other cities, Paris, London, Milan…you guys are always running from one thing to the other. Here you have the luxury of being able to make an experience out of it. And there’s the whole democratic aspect to it that I really like; there are lots of different people who can see what you do, outside of the typical fashion world.”
Based in Florence, Pitti Uomo is a legendary platform for Menswear for around 50 years now, every season it’s packed with various happenings around Florence and serves hundreds of peacocks from around the world during 4-day event. Each season Pitti invites renowned designers and brands (that usually show in other major fashion cities) to showcase their latest collections with their Guest Designer project. Previously Raf Simons, JW Anderson, Off-White, Neil Barrett & Gosha Rubchinskiy had a honor of bringing their collections to Florence and they all clearly brought a much-needed excitement and attention to the entire event.
FULL COLLECTION IMAGES
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ტანსაცმელი გაყიდვაშია - VETEMENTS SS 2019 NOW AVAILABLE WORLDWIDE
Much anticipated (and a very emotional for Demna's native Georgians) collection of VETEMENTS that they presented for SS 2019 is now available through major retailers and there’s new drop coming almost every week. I tried to keep up with all the latest additions on a leading retailers like MATCHES, MR PORTER & SSENSE (all of them known for their support to VETEMENTS and always stock most special pieces).
You may remember that SS 2019 collection that Demna Gvasalia presented on July 1st in Paris, was dedicated to his (and my) homeland - country of Georgia (here’s everything you need to know about the show / collection). I could not really wait the collection to arrive on retail to check the hidden details, pricing, etc. With some of the pieces, you should just be Georgian to understand the real, emotional message behind the particular print or a cut (and why they matter so much for me and my natives) but I’ve heard overall positive reactions about the collection from around the world (from my friend buyers or just fashion enthusiasts) and back in July, VETEMENTS CEO Guram Gvasalia mentioned that this collection sold more than any other and even Demna told to our common friend that once he made his personal order of the collection (which is kinda weird for me, I mean you design the clothes, he found it was his biggest to date and that means a commercial success to him, since he likes regular, wearable, commercial-looking clothes.
I’ve noticed that prices are bit higher than previous season, it’s more close to their early season’s pricings, but probably this is because of all the things behind the collection that make most of the pieces iconic. Even if many of the Georgians really want to have at least something from the collection, most of the prices equal 3 or 4 months salary of the majority of Georgian population, so I guess most of our natives just have to look at foreigners wearing piece of Georgian history and just feel proud about that - and this is much more than owning any particular garment, I’m sure!
I’ve selected some of my favorite pieces below:
A MUST-HAVE OF THEM ALL - HOODIE “ტანსაცმელი” (Means “clothes” or “vetements” in Georgian)
AVAILABLE AT MR PORTER - $1150 / ₾3075 (Georgian Lari)
T-SHIRT “ტანსაცმელი” (Means “clothes” or “vetements” in Georgian)
AVAILABLE AT MR PORTER - $650 / ₾1740 (Georgian Lari)
Black version of the same t-shirt (with different painting but same wording) goes bit cheaper for $650 at MR. PORTER
The most anticipated pieces are definitely Georgian flag prints (especially the one in rainbow), SSENSE has variety of colors available here and here, for $460 / ₾1230
This one is particularly interesting for Georgians (and has been subject of lots of fun and anger at local social medial platfroms). These pieces have print that reads უფალო შეგვიწყალენ (meaning “god save us”). With Georgian being a country where religious (orthodoxical) views are strong, it caused a lot of confusion, and some mentioned that Demna actually made fun of it and trolled everyone who praises god and believes that religion is untouchable (especially if it’s connected to fashion) even if many of the locals have the same phrase printed on the back of their car windows for various “safety” reasons. Anyways, I love this and you can get yours below:
T-SHIRT AVAILABLE AT MR PORTER - $350 / ₾880
TURTLENECK AVAILABLE AT MATCHESFASHION - $770 / ₾2060
I was kinda surprised to see this particular top (below) and since it was note featured at the runway, I only just found it at MR PORTER. Sweatshirt has a print saying კმარა (”enough!”). Kmara was a civic youth resistance movement in Georgia, active in the protests prior to and during the November 2003 Rose Revolution, which toppled down the government of the president Eduard Shevardnadze.
AVAILABLE AT MR. PORTER - $880 / ₾2355
The infamous tattoo top is up at ANTONIOLI for pre-order - €533 / ₾1625
ANTONIOLI also stocks a t-shirt (here) with the word VETEMENTS (clothes) written in various different languages.
€287 / ₾875
Target print was one of the most memorable detail from the collection (symbolizing the bullets that were once aimed at Georgia during 90′s Civil War)
AVAILABLE AT MATCHESFASHION - $450 / ₾1200
There’s an Alpha Industries Bomber jacket that has QR code printed on it - it brings you to the page where you can read about above mentioned Georgian Civil War
AVAILABLE AT MR.PORTER - $1790 / ₾4785
And there’s usual stuff such as socks, rings new zodiac sign series and a “FUCK YOU” (written in Russian) hoodie (via SSENSE, here)
Shoes and rest of the collection is still to be released, so I will update this post once new drop arrives.
If you follow the market, you may noticed that collection dropped quite early (around October) for Spring/Summer collection release standards, but it’s a part of VETEMENTS “industry disruption” model that they’ve announced in 2016 - when they decided to show newest collections earlier than anyone and then realease the collection months in advance (compared to usual release dates that brands use) - for example: if other brands usually show their Spring/Summer collections in September and release them in stores in January/February next year, VETEMENTS shows newest collection in July and starts dropping in late September. Anyways, there's still much more to be released from this collection and I will keep the post updated with new drops.
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JAM-PACK - PARIS MENS FASHION WEEK FALL 2019 IS AROUND
Starting from 3PM on 15th January, Paris will be taken over by best of Menswear. It should be one of the most exciting seasons in recent history, since the calendar, published by FHCM is packed with some of the most exciting and surprising new members.
Heron Preston will open Paris Mens Fashion Week marathon with his second-ever Parisian show (see the SS 19 here) followed by Japanese talents Fumito Ganryu and Takahiramiyashita TheSoloist.
Jonathan Anderson must be one of the busiest men this season, cause he will stage his first ever Menswear show for his JW Anderson label in Paris (after 10 years of London runways) on 16th at 13:00 and then he will be back again with Loewe’s debut Menswear show (in history) on 19th at 12:00 (the label previously only held presentations).
Another busy bee of the fashion is arguably Virgil Abloh, who is holding his Off-White show on 16th and follows with second Louis Vuitton show on 17th (short gap, no?). He debuted his Men’s Vuitton’s vision in June 2018 first time with most anticipated and talked-about show of the season (which I had luck to attend) and now he dedicates upcoming LV outing to his ultimate icon, Michael Jackson. I am sure he will also pop-up in many, many other places during the week (like DJ-ing, lecturing, hosting, etc).
Dior had to re-schedule their Men’s show from 19th Jan to 18th due to the local protests scheduled that day and Kim Jones will show his third collection (he debuted in Paris in June and then presented Pre-Fall in Tokyo, end of last year) on unusual Friday spot (usually all the major brands have their “own” weekdays during fashion week).
Jil Sander is the most surprising addition to Paris calendar. They will show on 18th Jan at 15:00 and since I’m loving what’s happening in the house at the moment, I hope they keep it stronger than ever for Paris.
Kris Van Assche’s debut Berluti runway will take place on 18th at 13:00, it’s first time after his appointment (almost a year ago, when he left Dior Homme) when he will share his vision to the house on a bigger scale.
Jacquemus is also here – after his debut Menswear show in Marseilles (June 2018) he is back in the city and shows on Sunday, 20th at 11:00.
RAF! After his exit from Calvin Klein 2 weeks ago, all eyes are on Raf Simons again. After previous season’s sensational comeback to the Parisian scene (he showed 3 seasons at New York before), this must be one of his most anticipated shows ever! Like
Usual classy regulars (that NEVER disappoint) of course include Dries Van Noten, Comme Des Garcons, Valentino, Yamamoto & Thom Browne.
Alyx, GmbH, AMI and Acne Studios are also present to bring the youthful and cool freshness to the week.
And the last but not least - we have maybe already seen Hedi Slimane’s Celine Menswear in his debut co-ed show (in September 2018) but he still decided to dedicate separate show to the menswear (well, this is what he masters) and end Paris Fashion Week with it, on Jan 20th at 20:00.
BUT, HOLD ON! There’s also one very important show happening on 17th, at 20:00 which I am impatiently waiting for – and it’s VETEMENTS! Label is showing to men’s schedule yet again after previous seasons’s off-schedule Haute Couture season appearance. While for SS 19 Demna Gvasalia has already put his most emotional collection to date on the runway, I’m sure he still has more to tell and show to us!
Start packing now!
#STATEMANT#OBSESSIONS#PERCEPTIONS#PFW#PFWM#FW 19#FALL 2019#FALL WINTER 2019#VETEMENTS#CELINE#JW ANDERSON#LOEWE#RAF SIMONS#JIL SANDER#JACQUEMUS#DIOR#DIOR MENS#KIM JONES#BERLUTI
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THE PLEASURE BOOK FOR BOYS BY JW ANDERSON
I have recently shared the news about JW Anderson’s collaboration with artists Gilbert and George for his Spring/Summer 2019 collection. Now there’s a book following.
Titled as “The Pleasure Book for Boys” is photographer Alasdair McLellan’s vision on the collaboration. The book of 60 pages shows a series photographs partly taken in Gilbert and George’s house in London. A poster is wrapped around the book and both are inserted in a record like sleeve in which comes a series of 3 stickers. Book is now exclusively available at JW Anderson e-store here , spreading worldwide soon.
Here’s some preview:
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CELINE TO STAGE STAGE FIRST EVER MEN’S FASHION SHOW
After Hedi Slimane’s the most-talked-criticized-hated (and still loved by some, now including me, don’t hate me for this!) debut show for CELINE, designer decided not to wait until upcoming Fall 2019 women’s fashion week season and plans to stage separate Menswear show on 20th January at 20:00 during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, and it makes a lot of sense.
As we all know, with the arrival of new creative and image director, CELINE plans to expand into Menswear, Couture (SO F*CKIN EXCITING!) and Fragrances. Hedi Slimane has already presented his CELINE Menswear creations during the debut Spring/Sumer 2019 show (both men and women had the same amount of looks on the runway) but this separated outing must be the declaration of how important Menswear business is going to be for “NEW” CELINE. I’m sure we all know what we are going to see on the runway, but for me there’s never enough of well-tailored menswear.
CELINE will close Paris Fashion Week, show location yet to be announced.
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BERLUTI SS 2019 CAPSULE - KRIS VAN ASSCHE BACK IN THE GAM
While preparing for his debut Berluti runway show in January 2019, house’s new creative director Kris Van Assche designed a capsule collection for Spring/Summer 2019 season, to preview his vision for the house and also keep Berluti stores served with the product.
Everything you would expect from Kris and Berluti tandem is present here – a well-made tailoring mixed with sporty elements and logo-accented t-shirts, re-designed signature shoes and some new colorful sneakers (first ever. in brand’s history) Tailored suits (which Berluti is known for and which is strongest category of the Belgian designer) were designed into vibrant colors and leather – to keep the youthful attitude and bring new, millennial customers to the brand.
With both sides (the brand and designer) having common values, it must be a perfect fit.
FULL COLLECTION
Kris Van Assche, who has left Dior Homme after 11 years in January 2018, has been appointed as a Creative Director at Berlut in in April this year (replacing Haider Ackermann, who spend 2 years at the house). Berluti will stage comeback runway show in Paris, in January 2019, for Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
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BALENCIAGA SS 2019
PARIS FASHION WEEK, OCTOBER 2018
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BELLA HADID HOSTS CHROME HEARTS PARTY
It’s always nice to have some good friends, especially in Paris (and if they happen to work in fashion at right positions, you love them even more - truth be told). I was about to sleep on Tuesday night in my hotel room after long and tiring flight (and few hours of walk) when one of my friends texted me that we could go to one very good party. I was ready in...30 seconds, went to Metro and the last stop was Le Carmen, where Bella Hadid, Virgil Abloh, Kendall Jenner & other close friends of mine were waiting me to arrive (hah)!
Chrome Hearts was the organizer behind the event at one of the most famous Parisian clubs Le Carmen. Bella Hadid (who has already collaborated with the brand previously) Virgil Abloh and Jesse Jo Stark were hosts of the VIP-crowded party. Virgil has been playing one of his many roles this night - DJ-ing from the wooden Off-White branded table with the sickest playlist I have witnessed recently, ranging from Travis Scott to Corey Hart. Kendall Jenner has been encouraging his bff Bella who actually stood with Virgil at the DJ table and looked absolutely immaculate wearing lace corset & tiny sunglasses. Here’s my video that I took before my phone went from 1% to 0, so I did not really snap a lot (no selfies, nothing, cause the phone did not have this party scheduled and was almost dead).
Such parties are usually great spot to hear all the latest rumors of the industry (and cocktails also reaaaally help) and that was no exception - most of them actually talked about upcoming Hedi Slimane’s CELINE debut show and I have heard some really optimistic (hoping that Hedi would pay homage to at least bit of brand’s heritage and won’t erase all like he did on CELINE’s Instagram) and others clearly were not happy with his recent collection previews and mentioned that Slimane could not really develop himself over the years and is stuck at one single (mostly black & white, skinny, leather, etc) vision and doubted it would work for CELINE. Some complained about Dior’s previous day’s runway show but all were stunned with Saint Laurent’s spectacle in front of the Eiffel (that actually took place minutes before the party started).
You could spot a lot familiar faces - Supermodel Cindy Crawford, Kaia Gerber, Dree Hemingway, Sara Sampaio, Jordan Barret, Caroline Vreeland, Jewellery Designer Loree Rodkin and more (besides, some really annoying Influencers were also present there) - you can check all the party guests and judge their looks here, and here.
Cover photo by Stephane Feugre (WWD)
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OBSESSIONS
CHROME HEARTS PARTY
PARIS FASHION WEEK, SEPTEMBER 2018
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MODERN BALENCIAGA AT MATCHESFASHION
Matchesfashion has just dropped entire Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2018 collection online and I can’t help but want like...everything?
Matches has also made a special dedicated editorial for the collection and surely stylists behind the shoot, Simon Chilvers and Natalie Brewster had a LOT to choose from and they easily made an already much-hyped collection more desirable for their customers. What’s most special about this collection? It features some of really simple but kinda weird, quirky details and makes you double think whether you can handle it or not, but it just settles on your mind and then if you are lucky enough to have a stock available later, then you immediately grab and get your Balenciaga mind fix! Some of the examples include regular check shirt with telephone number printed on it (that brings you to the Balenciaga call centre and its long automated-questionary), then there is another check shirt that is attached to the regular t-shirt and makes you headache not only about design features but wearability itself. Then comes outwear with 5 to 9 different layers (one of the most expensive Balenciaga pieces under Demna, retailing from 5000 to 10000 USD), some very slim-fit but absolutely gorgeous looking blazers and don’t forget about new track sneaker, available in 5 different colorways and of course, Triple S is always with us, offered in new Fall appropriated colors.
You may also remember the World Food Program–branded merchandise that will donate proceeds to United Nations charity which acts to relieve food poverty. “You see, I don’t want to be just a T-shirt-and-hoodie man. We sell them, of course—but I feel I have a responsibility to do it in a way which brings a message.” - mentioned Gvasalia.
So, it’s just up to you how much of new seasons’ Balenciaga you can get at once, MATCHESFASHION is here to help.
WATCH THE COLLECTION IN MOTION & SHOP AT MATCHESFASHION
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AN ODE TO GEORGIA - VETEMENTS SS 2019
JULY 1, TBILISI, 7:11 PM – I’m sitting in my kitchen with two of my friends and sipping final gulps of homemade iced coffee to bite with incredibly hot weather outside and scrolling my Instagram.
I know that VETEMENTS show is about to start, almost everyone who I follow has live tuned on and the show starts. The quality of the live stream was not perfect but I could spot long narrow table, where models started walking and guests were “served” with the latest VETEMENTS outfits while sitting around it. With each new VETEMETNS show announcement, I always think what’s gonna be the next offering from Gvasalia brother, since we all know how they’ve revolutionized and “disrupted” the industry and their unusual runways is one of the biggest part of the brands’ entire aesthetic. It was the same here, I was intrigued to see just for the sake of interest. When first three looks appeared, music started and models were walking with usual VETEMENTES-que “rush”, I thought, well, ok. But then I’ve screamed, shouted (my friends looking scared at me) and had goosebumps all over, since fourth look featured a hoodie saying “ტანსაცმელი”, which means “clothes” (or “VETEMENTS”) in Georgian! None the less! Then another one saying “გაზაფხული/ზაფხული” (that translates as “Spring/Summer”), then “უფალო შეგვიწყალენ” (meaning “god bless us”) and finally the Georgian flag printed anorak jacket..
I wanted to cry, for various reasons:
First – finally, it was the collection I was waiting since the appearance of VETEMENTS in fashion scene and I was absolutely sure it would happen once!
Second - it felt so emotional to see someone pay tribute for my (and his) native country.
And the 3rd that I’m an asshole and did not stay for few more days to attend such a historical and monumental show! Cause I was in Paris days before the show but could not stay for additional 3 days (I could manage to attend the show), because I spent all my money at shopping (mostly on VETEMENTS actually!) and did not spare more for 10 minute event, which I regret now VERY VERY VERY much!
It might be hard for someone, non-Georgian, to share same excitement as I have for this particular collection, but it’s definitely a moment which made even most non-fashion-related Georgians interested and very proud. It quickly became a major news for local tv and online media.
As more facts became clear, it felt even more special for all of us – appears majority of the models were just regular Georgian boys and girls, selected by VETEMENTS casting directors right here, in the streets of Tbilisi. Collection featured some fresh “ugly” sneakers, signature dad shoes and combat boots,
various tailored pieces (my favorite VETEMENTS category),
some white hand-painted “graduation” shirts (which were actually painted in Tbilisi by locals, in various night clubs),
opening model wore a nude shirt covered with the types of tattoos Georgian prisoners would get to flaunt their mob ties,
there was a signature Alpha Industries bomber with a message - “We dance together, we fight together” - dedicated to the police raids held few weeks before the show in most famous local night clubs here “BASSIANI” and “CAFE GALLERY” and a massive two-day rave at the center of the city with the same slogan as above.
Leather jackets and suits were finished with zip up hoodies, masks, covering the faces of the models (as a symbol of unknown or no identities),
target prints symbolized the bullets that were once aimed at Georgia.
Georgian flag was seen in various colorways, including one in a rainbow - more or less provocative for local standards.
Besides the floral dresses (already a strong brand signature), we have seen a fabulous wedding gown at the finale of the show (worn with some classic white pumps, while some other variations featured a upside down Eiffel tower as heel)
and one off special maxi skirt, painted by Demna himself, and will retail for around 15 000 EUR (pictured below).
Finale of the show has brought highest emotions: it featured modernized version of Georgian national dance music and with all the Georgian models walking on this imaginary “wedding table” wearing Georgian alphabet features on that music, in Paris, on the center of fashion’s most important players, was just…terrific!
WATCH THE FULL SHOW
In a post-show interviews, VETEMETNS creative director Demna Gvasalia said: “I went back to my past in Georgia to face my fears and painful moments…like post Civil war and everything there in the ’90s, and I made the most personal kind of fashion proposition out of that. My house was bombed and it was destroyed. My grandmother, for one week, she didn’t have memory. These are all the things that influenced me, experiencing that when I was a child. I feel everybody today talks about war, refugees (and the show was held on 19th Arrondisement of Paris, which is now surrounded by refugees). And I am like, yes, I know exactly what that means. It's weird. This is about my life, but also it's about everything you see on CNN, as well," said the designer.
Here’s what’s behind the story: Sukhumi (Demna’s and his family’s hometown, capital of Abkhazia region, now occupied by Russia, for more than 25 years) was one of the epicenters of the Georgian Civil War at the beginning of 90’s. A strong ethnical conflicts have resulted into 30,000 killed humans and around 250 000 refugees – including Gvasalia and his family (here’s full story behind the Civil War). Also, here you can listen an exclusive rare radio interview with Demna via Radio Tavisupleba.
For me (and my entire nation), as a Georgian (even if I was just 1 or 2 years old during that Civil war), it’s very important to spread the message to the world what was our past and how we have come to the present times, what my parents and grandparents generation had to overcome to make Georgia a safe place to live. Demna has went through his entire youth traumas and came out with the most sensational VETEMENTS collection to date.
Besides all the Georgia-inspired pieces (which were mostly VETEMENTS classic fits, hoodies, oversized silhouettes and deconstructed denim) there were Russian, Ukrainian, Turkish (also a homage to Demna’s mother heritage) and US flag anoraks featured. These are countries that mostly influenced and affected Georgia (and Demna himself in various aspects) over the years, especially after 90s’ post-soviet era. Featuring Russian flag has actually generated mixed emotions between locals in Georgia (as I mentioned it became a major discussion topic in social media for a few days) with some mentioning that it kinda ruined entire thing and putting a huge flag of the country who has 20% of Georgia occupied (and continues to grow this share) was unnecessary and it at least should feature some protest slogans. I think (and majority) it actually felt absolutely right and genius to put a Russian flag on this specific collection, since if you want to tell us about the history of Georgia, it’s just impossible to miss Russian Federation and all its activities against us.
As for the cast, those 40 people, that Demna and VETEMENTS guys brought from Georgia, he said: “They represent for me what I represented when I came to Europe years ago - that certain naivety and voice they don’t think they have in their country”. I’ve asked some of the guys after they got back to Tbilisi (cause they are all friends of friends), what did they feel about the entire thing, some of them had just same feelings as me, some mentioned that they still didn’t filter in their mind how and what happened to them, since for majority it was not only first runway show ever, but first touch to the fashion industry, overall. But all of them were proud that they now became kinda part of the history.
It was a 10th collection of VETEMENTS, it will be hard to name brands that gained such an incredible success in such a short time and had influenced not only young but many of the well-established labels. Demna is a so-called “Margiela kid” himself (and that sensational Margiela exhibition at Palais Galliera in Paris is a proof of that) and he even mentioned how he got back to his design roots with its previous collection, entitled “The Elephant in the Room” (FALL-WINTER 2018, see here) where he has fully exploded what he does the best (some of the buyers and editors mentioned with me that label was kind of “back on track” with that collection, after not so-satisfying SS 2018, which was just re-edition collection, see my visit to the presentation here). And this latest “Georgia” collection was a continuation of his growing personal approach to the clothes: “It’s a very different way of working for me because I always did shows that were just about clothes…nothing else really mattered for me. But I think I’ve changed and probably my approach to fashion also changed. My interests changed. I realized that I need some storytelling next to making just clothes. Last season, it was going back to understand my creative roots. That’s why there was an elephant in the room, the whole Margiela, questioning creativity. This season I went back to my actual roots, which is this country that is troubled and that really shaped me creatively and also who I am.” – Demna said.
As VETEMENTS CEO Guram Gvasalia mentioned, they have sold more of this collection than any other recent ones (and even Demna told that once he made his personal order of the collection, he found it was biggest to date), which is very interesting for me, since it means that spreading the message (and not just selling a garment) is a cruicial part. Me and my natives have already been shocked or made fun of fashionistas from around the world wearing our grandparent’s wardrobe inspired clothes (that can be also found at second hand markets for 500 times cheaper than VETEMENTS), oversized outwear (that our parents were buying in bigger sizes, on purpose, to last for few years, while we would grow in height and weight) and table cloth print shoes, but I actually can not wait to see entire world wearing this particular collection pieces and I’m sure I can read a lot in Georgian during my next fashion week visits on everyone’s chests or shoulders.
One more note (just in case), I have met Guram year ago in Paris during their SS 2018 presentation and mentioned how popular they were in Georgia (I mean, they are! They have crazy fan pages and dedicated TV shows). Demna must be one of the most famous Georgians ever (on the international scale) and the fact of him not being heterosexual (and Georgia is known for its homophobic issues) does not affect the pride that most of the locals have (because of him)! After the latest show, I’m sure their fandom will double and the respect will move to another level, cause he is the man who could manage to tell the history of the country to the world, just in 10 minutes, without even a single word!
Below, you can see the guy wearing custom-made cap, outside VETEMENTS SS 18 show, campaigning for Gvasalia as President and I think it never made more sense than it does now, after the show. And btw, that guy is actually ME!
And here’s me again, with my version of VETEMENTS definition, that I made 2 years before the show to show everyone the native heritage of the brand and “translate” the word for them, during the fashion week.
#STATEMANT#OBSESSIONS#PERCEPTIONS#VETEMENTS#DEMNA GVASALIA#GURAM GVASALIA#PFW#PFWM#SS 19#SS 2019#GEORGIA
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