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snailss-fmp ยท 11 months
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SKETCHBOOK FLICK-THROUGH
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I had a lot of difficulty getting this across to YouTube, I had hoped the poor quality was from a mistake uploading but after quite a bit of messing about it seems to just be the poor quality of my phone- which is the only way I had of recording this. Overall I'm glad its down- and some context for page filler in my designs;
Roses represent the blood shed by Christ when he was crucified, and the orange 'sunflower' page is suppose to be a secondary attempt at a sun, though paint really didn't do it much justice.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FINAL GARMENT
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Final garment complete! I'm ecstatic with the results, I feel all the work was worth it in the end and I'm really glad I pushed myself with fabrics and work. I spent a full day curled up on the ground around the mannequin fraying the lace and hems, though I did have to make some changes to the design on the physical piece; I didn't have enough lace for all seams, so the side seams had to go without- though I luckily feel this hasn't diminished the design and looking at it complete I feel more lace may of been excessive- I also decided to remove lace in the button stand, I initially attempted it with but the lace chosen was a yellowing off-while and really didn't look nice, not to mention the clash of lace so this was an aspect I went without- and feel it's better for.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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DESIGN BOARDS
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Design boards done and dusted! Ultimately I worked up a sparse and faded copy of my print and messed with motion blur and perspective for a rough background, and glitched up some creepy and relevant images to decor the back. I wanted to use the eyes I've used in my experimentation of boards but my tutor feels they're far too distracting. I'm overall really happy with the results, and can't wait to see them in my portfolio .
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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DESIGN BOARD EXPERIMENTATION
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Some concept ideas for design boards- I've drawn up blurred imagery to mimic people with their hands on hypothetical glass, blurred up a very faint sketch of padded walls and collaged both images and eyes, playing with blurs, glitches and effects. So far the first of these designs are my favourite, it feels very 'bleach-smelling white sanatorium room induced insanity', the same applying to the second just with a little less going on. The third is far too much, I took an image of a crowded graveyard strife with piles of crosses and crucifixes and messed with glitchy colours but it's a little too distracting for a design board- it needs something a little more low-key. The final on the other hand isn't too bad, but I feel the glitched imagery giving a pop of colour still may be a little much in comparison as the focus needs to remain on the designs.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FINAL GARMENT DEVELOPMENT
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After a good few weeks of consistent screen printing (I will sob if I have to repeat this, the results are 100% worth it but god it took so long), i've finally managed to start putting it all together! I've put together the skirt and most of the bodice so far, though i've hit a few issues; when working on the toile, we had to alter the back patterns for the button stand, something that wasn't translated to the back panels, so there's a pretty large overhang and difference in size which i'll have to cut down from the garment as is to fix- very nerve wracking.
I need to work on more stay pleats as I didn't quite have enough for the second back panel, but to avoid the pleats coming undone I've sewn around the piece after cutting them out at half a cm. I'm really really happy how this is coming along, I'm so scared to mess it up.
Update!
Finished the back panel, there isnโ€™t an issue with the pattern itself- it seems to purely be caused by stretch from the pleats as the other side came out perfectly. Just missing the collar, button stand and gathering then bodice is complete.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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PRESS RELEASE
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Alternate designs;
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Managed to write up my press release- my original concept was to go down the route of inherently insane ravings of someone obsessively trying to sell the work of an eldritch horror- but with the changes to my customer pushing towards a movie, it felt better to take a more professional response form an outer view rather than from inside the movie. I didnโ€™t play much with composition of title and logo- this was primarily focused on the backdrop for my press release for a constrasting effect rather than the plain and boring white backdrop.
Marketing isnโ€™t my forte :)
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FINALISED DESIGNS
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Finalised designs completed with media and ready for design boards! I cleaned them up, used a messier pen and attempted shading with charcoal brushes for a more rugged and old effect- I'm really happy with the results. Faces and bodies took a bit of experimentation, I'm pushing towards the usual theme of haunting and faceless, seeming blurred and out of focus, almost like smoke. Experimenting with different poses ended up just falling on small alterations with the limbs but with the faded smoke effect paired with a mix of large vs small sleeves alternating I feel i managed to get away with avoiding too complex poses.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FRONT PAGE MINDMAP
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In a bid to clear up my sketchbook theme, customer and inspiration i decided to to a mind map in the inner side of the cover touching on words that describe best the route I'm taking. Words that give emotion and imagery without actual imagery
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
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Pattern numbers:
1 panel front
2 centre top front
3 top side front
4 back panel
5 centre top back
6 side top back
7 bottom centre front
8 bottom side front
9 bottom centre back
10 bottom side back
11 Collar
12 Puff Sleeve
13 Puff sleeve band
14 Asylum sleeve
15 Button stand
Dress block expanded down from waist by 38.5 inches
Created neckline, 4cm from shoulder creating box and curving the edge for the neck
Separating bodice from skirt and adding style line
Notch bodice and cut out
Cut up middle of front and front side pieces leaving a small part uncut to keep attached.
Side front/back make line to be SOG, mark 2.5cm on each side and spread out pattern to this mark, creating volume. Add 5cm to both sides.
Spread front and back centre pieces and add 5cm, and add 5cm to the side without the fold mark.
We added an additional 4cm at the bottom of all front/back/side bodice panels at the waist.
Cut fully down the centre of the centre front and centre back skirt, expand by 5cm at the waist hem between the pattern and on the side without the fold marker, and expand at the low hem by 15cm both between the pieces and on the side without fold marker.
39.7 by 4cm for collar
Button stand 46.5
We ended up having to overlap skirt pieces to make sure notches properly match due to issues with lining up.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FACE EXPERIMENTATION
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I started off by getting my poses down into my sketchbook, experimenting with abstract faces and wings for a more 'biblical' appearance. To expand on this, I moved to digital.
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I ended up played with more abstract eyes and wings for the biblical angel appearance using collage, though also attempted a more 'human' seeming appearance which initially flopped (as seen in video below.) I worked into utilising charcoal brushes to give a fuzzy smoke effect for the body, that followed through to the concept of matching heads- My favourite results fall under the final attempt due to it's out of focus and misty feel, as i feel it suits for the concept of the background people in the film's concept in my customer.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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MEDIA EXPERIMENTATION CONT.
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ACRYLIC
Acylic is an absolute pain purely due to how messy it is. I managed to block in colour and go over details in pen, but on such a small scale it definitely isn't something I plan to continue with beyond more decorative page backings.
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PASTEL
How people make pastel look nice I'll never understand- An attempt, at least! I tried to get some shading in, as well as pops of colour but overall the results were pretty poor- an attempt, non the less.
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INK
Ink falls under a more watery version of Acrylics in terms of applicability. It lacks the flexibility and is far more difficult to not dilute or mix when aiming for specific colours- a bit too messy and unpredictable.
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FABRIC COLLAGE
Fabric collage is something I really wanted to attempt, but ultimately had poor results. Attempting to drape fabric on such a small level with glue just doesn๏ฟฝ๏ฟฝt work, and while I should of planned it out a bit more the results are overall disappointing.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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SCREEN PRINTING
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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MEDIA EXPERIMENTATION
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DIGITAL
Some digital block colours and experimentation to start with, i wanted to try play with colours and very stagnant choices, but it looks pretty plain all things considered.
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DIGITAL COLLAGE
Digital collage is something I have attempted for final designs in prior units, I think it hasn't worked as well here as it has in the past primarily due to the difference in fabric- it's not something i would choose for my final designs this unit, i think.
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WATERCOLOUR
Watercolour has been a definite favourite of mine throughout the course, and it comes in again beating most in terms of appeal, look and well.. everything. I used a gold posca marker to overlay black details gold, and while watercolour is definitely a poor choice for finer details- so it's on the considering list for my final outcomes.
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PROMARKER
Pro-marker is amazing for vibrance but it's bleed can be really frustrating- and blending pro marker is a skill I sadly lack. It works for deeper and harsher colours, but it's not the easiest medium to work with and not a preferred one for my ideals for this unit.
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PENCIL
Pencil is a hit and miss personally, especially when it comes to getting deep tones and even texture.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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VELVET DYE ATTEMPT
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I took advantage of our given two days over the holidays to pop into college and get my fabric dyed ready for sewing- with my toile almost finished and all definite pieces I'll be using in velvet finished i went ahead and dyed a good potion of cotton velvet college could offer with Dylon black dye. The results have come out more navy and patchy than expected, but I'm really happy with the almost crushed appearance of the velvet as I think it will add to my 'horror' theme- this was time consuming, I spent the first day prepping velvet and going through the consistent few two hour cycles to get it dyed and rinsed- then the second day managed to get all velvet pieces cut out ready as seen above for our return.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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TOILE DEVELOPMENT
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Toile finally competed! Iโ€™m really happy with the finished silhouette but thereโ€™s definite improvements needed for my final product.
The button stand was extended as I overlooked and assumed it only spanning the top panels would be enough with its baggyness, but that wasnโ€™t the case- attaching the bodice panels are a pain, but I canโ€™t see altering it really making it much more manageable, and a stubborn part of me doesnโ€™t want to change the shape just for an easy option- but whether that translates well in my final garment is another matter.
Hidden beneath the belt is all the gathered threads visible due to my inability and rush to get it complete, and partically due to these things overlooked with how chaotic and difficult it is to sew a full gathered skirt into a gathered top. So much thread
Iโ€™ve tested seam options for velvet as well as gathering, sheering elastic doesnโ€™t work but pulling the thread for gathering luckily works well- I also canโ€™t iron velvet without a pinboard due to its delicate piles, so itโ€™s all a fun time :)
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION
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BODICE
Sew top pieces together matching notches, leave shoulder points.
Pleat lace and sew onto top panels at 1/2 cm, right sides together.
Sew panels onto bodice, match notches and right sides together. Snipe into bodice and panel curve no deeper than 1/2 when sewing together.
Sew collar pieces right sides together along top seam, fold and press.
Sew collar right sides together on the shorter of the two longest edges, turn right way through and sew a retaining stitch along seam to keep shape.
Sew right side of collar to wrong side of bodice, fold over to right side of bodice and fold collar's seam allowance in, hiding raw edges and sew into place.
repeat same process as step above for button stand.
Gather waist of bodice to 96cm. Start by gathering separate bodice halves to 48cm each. (front + front sides / back + back sides.)
Optional: Front and back top panels + collar can be done in stay pleats for ribbed effect, this WILL cause stretch, make sure to pin and tack all pieces clearly to prevent this.
SLEEVES
Gather puff sleeve shoulder and forearm hem, sew the sleeve shut.
Sew armband together, overlock and fold to hide seam.
Sew armband (raw edges together with puff sleeve) and overlock.
Sew sleeve into bodice.
Sew sleeve overlay closed leaving just the initial arm hole, turn right way through.
Create belt loops by folding a long piece of fabric and sewing together, turn inside out (easiest using a safety pin) and cut down to preferable size. sew belt loops on with 7cm between onto sleeve overlay.
Lace ribbon through belt hoops to keep in place, press studs are an optional addition for extra support to the overlay and puff sleeve.
SKIRT
Sew skirt together, match notches wrong sides together. Back to side back, side back to side front, side front to front, etc.
Optional: sew lace between hems for frilled effect.
Gather waist of skirt to 96cm. Start by gathering separate skirt halves to 48cm each. (front + front sides / back + back sides)
Optional hemming depending on wanted finish: Top stitch hem for clean look OR purposely fray hem with scissors and leave raw.
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snailss-fmp ยท 1 year
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FINALISED DESIGN CONCEPTS
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โ€ฆ
Finalised designs finally completed! Taking the advice given from my tutor on midpoint assessment, i tried to give more texture and volume to my designs- some were a hit, some i feel were a miss- but overall i'm really happy with the changes i've manged to make. I pushed to keep my designs quite prudish due to the religious and nun undertones i'm prioritising and i feel the 'slutty nun' route is just a bit too overused and cliche. I used rags and frays to make them seem worn and battered, using gradient shading to give the effect of darkness afflicting and crawling up the garments and handprints on the nightgown inspired ones to seem like an attempt to metaphorically drag them down to hell, as well as imply defilement with placement on bust, hips and throat. I'm really happy with the results and it's definitely uplifted all my initial designs, and i'm looking forward to the development of my final garment.
I wanted to keep my chosen garment true to the silhouette as I'd already started on the pattern before i had to enforce these changes, but I believe I've managed to bring the horror in without altering enough for a compete restart of my efforts.
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