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seecourtneytravel · 2 years

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July is 4th - Maui- our last full day!

Dan and I woke up around 630 and were contemplating possibly snorkeling vs getting a Hawaiian breakfast involving banana pancakes and coconut syrup- as it is a Hawaiian must! Breakfast won. We had recommendations to go to a breakfast place north of the island called "The Gazebo." As it was, it was just a Small gazebo hut.

We arrived 15 minutes before they opened at 8Am and there was still a very long line awaiting for them to open. We waited over two hours in the line, but once we were in the waitress said their would be barely a wait to receive our food.

Dan and I both ordered two plates. I figure since we were camping, whatever I couldn't eat I would put in the cooler. I ordered an eggs Benedict and Dan ordered an omelet. Of course we both ordered pancakes on top of it. The waitress warned me that it would be a lot of food and recommended I didn't get both. I still did , especially based on the long line we waited in!

Dan had the Macadamian nut-banana pancakes with white chocolate chips and whip cream topping. I had banana pancakes with whip cream on the side. Here at the Gazebo, the banana were just a few slices just on the side and was not directly in the batter or fried into the pancake like I would expect.

When both orders came I ate only Halfway through both plates before I stuffed beyond belief. Dan ate both his plates, I couldn't believe it!

Afterwards, dan and I had some time to look around the area for possible snorkeling sections. We finished breakfast at 10:15 and had until 1:30 when our surfing lesson began.

Since we were in the northern part of western Hawaii in Kapalua, I figured it would be cool to go down the line for snorkel spots.

We only had time to snorkel one in Kapalua area before it was already to head towards Lahaina. The snorkel still didn't compare to the coral reefs right outside our campsite.

Dan had rented bikes in hopes we could ride back to Lahaina (7 miles) later in the evening to watch the fireworks later. We walked around the block several times around the addresses area for bike rental. The building was completely fenced off with a locking on every block. There was no way of entry or way to ring a doorbell or knock. I guess our plans shifted to staying in Lahaina the rest of the day into the evening.

It was time for Outrageous Surf school!

Dan had only surfed once with me, when I took h to choppy rough waves of Santa Cruz. He was not a fan at the time and was happy he was willing to give it another try. I think he liked that there was an instructor teaching the basic of basic on a day of np waves (anywhere near Lahaina). It was a roll of the dice to know if we were to come during a time of good waves or not, overall it was pretty flat. Pretty much standing on a small paddle board and almost floating into shore.

There was none in our group of all ages and sizes, all brand new beginners. I actually enjoyed getting a refresher in surfing as I don't do it year round. There's always something we can learn from going back to the basics. I feel that way for most subjects.

They took us on the beach and did a quick lesson of how to stand and corrected everyone's posture. I actually had a hard time doing the beginner version where they were directed to get on their stomach, to both knees, to one knee, to stand. Once you have the instinct to "pop up" it's hard to go backwards.

The water was perfect, even if it was flat. It was a great day for Dan to learn. The unusual part of paddling alone can be exhausting for anyone who hasn't paddled on their stomach before, even for strong gym goers and avid swimmers.

The instructors had everyone in a "safe zone" in the water next to a buoy. The instructors Axil and the other guy (forgot his name already), called us out into the water two at a time and pushed us in with the wave. They directed when to paddle and when to stand. Mostly everyone was able to catch on and stand. It was a great stress free class.

Afterwards, we were able to use the company's hose behind the building to rinse off a quick rinse. Once we realized we were not going back to camp we actually came back around and asked if we could take a second rinse with some soap and shampoo. They were very accommodating and that was our shower for the 4th of July.

We showered in our swimsuits and then moved our car to 24 hour parking. As it was only 4, we had 5 hours to spend loitering around Lahaina. Thankfully, it seemed hopping as people began to flood in.

Once we moved our car, we dressed semi nice and started getting into the wine and cheese and beer. I was sad my pancakes had gotten soggy as the ice melted in our cooler, leaking water into the container.

We walked around the mall, and realized the waiting lines for food were crazy long. We walked off the beaten path along Front sear and at at Paia Fish Market. I had the seafood pasta which was awesome. Dan had a fish burger. We were surved quick, the price was right, and the food was good.

Dan and I walked around the park where they had Banyan trees. It was an ecosystem of trees that were all connected by branches and routes. A very odd and unusual thing to see, it felt like it was from Harry Potter.

We waited on a bench for a while then migrated back to the car to grab our chairs. We thought there was a parade as a police officer mentioned it. We found a spot that seemed perfect for the road side and boarders a log fence facing the fireworks over the water.

While I went into the ABC store, the time I was in the line I missed the parade. It was only 3 fancy cars driving by slowly.

We watched the sunset and waited patiently for 8pm. The sunset was beautiful and would not have been viewed over water in Olowalu campground. 8pm came and the first firework launched.

They shot 2 or 3 mortars at a time and it was gorgeous. After 7 minutes, they picked up speed and at 11 minutes- the fireworks were over. It's funny to think we waited six hours for 11 minute fireworks. I wasn't mad but just surprised, as thousands of locals and tourists gathered.

Once the finale was over dan and I sprinted to the car (or jogged quickly) and were the first ones out of our lot. We were only a 12 minute drive back to camp. Tomorrow we were to head home. It was definitely a quick five days on the island.

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seecourtneytravel · 2 years

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Day 4 MAUI June 3

Wake up time was 430 as we had a scheduled diving tour (for Dan) and snorkeling tour for me. We drove to the dock where we would embark the fastest boat to Molokini island. This was a boomerang shaped piece of land that was famous for there coral reefs. As I was the only snorkeler, I was to follow the divers as I watched them below.

There was a couple on the boat that kept to themselves (from Northern California) and a solo diver from Israel who was receptive to conversation. Everyone looks forward to Molokini to snorkel or dive the "back wall." Divers are attracted to the natural current that takes them around the island there. The problem with the inside of Molokini is that it is a popular tourist spot for snorkelers. The amount of snorkelers there could be blamed for the destruction of the reef. It's super important to wear reef safe sunscreens, as a lot of tourists still do not.

So after 45 minutes of diving (and snorkeling) I pretty much hovered above the divers and didn't see too much of the reef. We never saw Molokini as the divers hit a drift and were not able to make it there. Which meant I was not able to do so..

We headed to the next dive area known for their sea turtles off the shore. The shore dive gave me more freedom to explore the reef. I was able to see several sea turtles and was with other tourists who literally walked out from the beach to snorkel.

Once we all finished, Dan took photos with our cheap underwater camera of a shark he saw along with a "newdiebreak." I was first on the boat and was able to take the first hot shower. And the water was HOT from the hose. Once all the divers came back on the boat they were able to remove their equipment and we headed back to Scuba Shacks boat launch.

Actually the hot shower and the boat ride back was the funnest part of the tour. We almost were flown off the boat as the driver let us stand up when he took a 90 degree turn going probably 40 mph.

When we returned to our awesome camp site, we went across the street and bought convenient store egg salad sandwiches and random desserts that were more Filipino than Hawaiian tradition. I was dying and needed a nap.

Recommend the Olowalu bar!!!

We drove back into our campground across the street. I immediately took a 2 hour nap in our hammock. I woke up and Dan was gone with the jeep. I waited for another hour and started walking out toward the main road. Conveniently, Dan drove up with some hot dogs. I just ate prior to napping so I felt like a gluten.

The drive to our beach campsite!

Dan and I actually snorkeled just outside our camp site and found these amazing tunnels of coral reefs with sea turtles all over the place. I give Dan credit because he found them while I was napping. The coral reefs were healthy with plenty of fish. Our Olowalu camp site had the best snorkeling we found with no other people around. It was cool Dan saw a shark during his dive, but for snorkeling, I recommend off the coastline self guided snorkels. There's no restrictions when you're on your own and it's FREE!

I don't think we did much more this day. Even after less than a week from not jotting things down, small details disappear.

We took advantage of the showers at the campsite. We also realized we left our rain cover off during the day and the inside of Our tent was covered in sand. We slept in dirt but it's okay.

The next day is Fourth of July! Our last day in Maui. The only plan we had was going to Leheina where they had Outrageous Surf School.

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seecourtneytravel · 2 years

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Day 3 - Maui June 2

Hana - fake luau-Olowalu Camp

We left Hana campground at 7:30 and began driving the same route back the way we came. This time we stopped along the way. I booked a Luau called the Wailele Luau that was at the Westin. We had eight hours to explore before then and planned on stopping at camp Olowalu.

The first place we stopped was at a Banana bread store front where we bought chocolate chip banana bread. It was AMAZING. I also bought some really good coffee here as well.

The next stop was our first waterfall where we went swimming as well. It was a park that was a very obvious stopping point on the side of the road for bathroom breaks and exploring. While Dan was using the bathroom I was playing with wild kittens. One came up and jumped right on my lap purring for me to take him home.

We then headed to the waterfall which was perfect to swim in as it was very hot and muggy. It rained while we were swimming but it felt so good!

The next pull off we did was a rainforest walk for one mile that had labeled planted trees from other parts of the world. It was beautiful and full of lush forest with bizarre flours and plants.

As we continued down, we headed towards Aunty Sandy's Banana bread shop where they served warm banana bread. We ate the whole thing right there. I've been here before with my friend gabby but the shop was closed. At the same time, the waves were HUGE in the location in an afternoon in December. This day with Dan, the tide was low and the waves were calm. It goes to show that even in the same locations you get different experiences on your travels!

Our final stop in Hana was the Bamboo forest that lead to multiple hiking trails and waterfalls. We climbed through and received advice along the way. We both had sneakers, sandles and ours swimsuits with one towel. We crossed a river and took various paths up the forest. We actually walked so far up we ran into the toppest point where a dry waterfall was found! Dan found a mushroom in a pile of cow poop and told me that was a hallucinogenic mushroom. He held on to it for a moment then put it back down. Thankfully haha.

We continued hiking until we approached a river crossing with some scattered rocks to brace ourselves on. This seemed intimidating because if we fell our shoes and phones would be soaked. We carefully crossed and made through this pass just fine. A couple ahead of us had water shoes which I highly recommend. Dan and I were barefoot and were much slower.

We kept our shoes off and walked into the forest as it was thick mud. Nothing like mud between your toes! There were a few ouch moments but wanted to preserve the only shoes I brought. We came across a large waterfall with a bunch of people scattered around. We were told two more waterfalls followed this one if we hiked on. To get to the next waterfall, it requires another river crossing that was twice as long and twice as strong. I was actually scared doing it.

Before we crossed we found some bamboo walking sticks on the one side. It was extremely helpful during the cross. I semi-fell once but preserved the shoes! Once we got to the other side, a steep climb with a rope assist was there.

A short walk later, we found the next waterfall! This one had a rope swing that went into a deep spot of the waterfall. Dan did it several times. I did it once and it was good enough for me. When I did it my top came off in the process but good thing it was so quick-nobody noticed.

We had to make it to our next camp in order to make the Luau at 5:30. We decided to skip the third waterfall and head back through the same river crossings. We explored the waterfalls and bamboo forest for about 2 hours!

Camp Olowalu was next. On our way out of Hana highway, we made it a point to stop at planet fitness for a shower. We changed into our best outfits and did our hair, I even put make-up on! When we arrived to camp, we already knew it was the best one yet! It was right next to the ocean, clean bathrooms, and warm showers. Once we set up, we headed straight to the Westin hotel where the luau was, which was 20-30 minutes north.

Upon entering Kaanapalai, you could tell this is where the rich people stay in Maui. Dan said this is where his vacations were usually as he's been here several times with his family.

We arrived at the Westin and the valet person told us to park in the garage for the Luau. Upon entering the garage, a few seconds in, as the ramp inclined, we heard this awful noise coming from the roof of the car. Dan and I soon realized I had a large plastic traveling case up there that probably didn't make clearance.

I then hit a overhanging light when pulling into the parking spot. We got out to assess the damage and saw some wrinkling and denting to the plastic container. There was no time to spare as the luau was to start any minute. So we headed out immediately.

The valet person directed us where the Luau was. We snaked through the hotel, and saw minimal traffic of people heading that way. It felt like we were in the middle of nowhere in the Westin hotel until we were outside and found ourselves at a sign that said "welcome to the Luau please wait to be seated at 530." It was 532 and NOBODY was there. Dan was an optimist and said maybe we were the first ones. I said "no way that's possible," not even workers were there. I called the Westin and they informed me to recheck my reservation. I had booked it for August 2nd not July 2nd.

After the car incident and the luau mishap I was kind of sad and felt like crying. Dan cheered me up and we got an array of food for a quarter of the price in the outdoor mall nearby. We made jokes how he was going to have to dance for me in a coconut bra and a grass skirt at camp while I ate pizza.

We ate pizza, fish plate, and ice cream. We walked around the outdoor mall complex and then made it to the car. At least our parking was validated and we saw a different, more fancy part of Maui.

We CAREFULLY left the garage with minor scraping on the way out. When we arrived back to camp we noticed it was completely dented in it was on the top. Dan was able to punch it out, but it still has some denting in the corners of the bin. I didn't want to stress about it, so I was going to tell them after I dropped it off.

We came back to camp and got ready for bed. Dan noticed everyone has their rain covers off at night, so we copied them. I was thinking, could I have had this rain cover off the last two nights I was dying of heat?!? Lesson learned. We also learned that the covers are on during the day for sand protection.

It was our first night in Olowalu. And we fell asleep early as always. Tomorrow Dan and I had to wake up at 430 for dans diving tour (and my snorkeling)

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seecourtneytravel · 2 years

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Day 2 June 1st

After a fun night of animal noises, I naturally woke up at 6AM. We had about an hour drive to Paia where we had reserved our down bill bike tour of Haleakala at 9am. Our camping neighbor recommended us to "grandmas cafe" that was popular for breakfast. We started to pack up, which actually took us about an hour, and stopped at the cafe that was just down the road.

The morning leaving our honey bee sanctuary campground

Grandmas cafe was a hole in the wall restaurant but was very busy. Even at 7am there was a line. I ordered a cheese omelet and oatmeal - pretty much what I would eat at home. I regret I didn't order something more Hawaiian like Dan who ordered the fish breakfast plate with rice. Grandmas place was more so known for there baked goods and breakfast breads, but we wanted to hold back until Hana's famous banana bread.

The drive continued to Paia, at almost the same starting point. It was such a cute little town, I wish we had time to explore it more. We arrived at "Maui Sun riders Bike Company." It was about $110 a person to have them drive us up Haleakala, which I would say we were at 6,500 feet when the top top is over 10,000 feet. Once we were dropped off, we coasted down which took about an hour or two with a stop for lunch.

I must say when we reached the top, another bike company was there but with these horrible bikes that look like beach cruisers from the 1950's. This group was also required to go down in a group where we could go at our own speed.

After a 45 minute ride to the near top, we waited for the guide to dismount the bikes. It was cold, windy, and rainy. We were given some serious motocross helmets and were able to head down and meet the guide at the bike shop.

It was actually not bad or scary at all, but that may be because I was applying the break the whole time. It was a fixed gear bike so no amount of peddling would get you anywhere faster. The hill was our only speed. Dan had his hands off the breaks the whole time and had taken full advantage of the speed the mountain provided.

Half way down, we stopped in a really small town and both got some açaí bowls. I personally enjoyed the lower half of the mountains bike ride than the top, it was warm, greener, and more scenic. After finishing and reflecting back on the tour, I would say it was worth it for this one time. This is especially true since we didn't have another window to do Haleakala for camping and hiking during this trip.

After the bike tour, we stopped at Walmart to pick up a few snacks for the campsite.

The jeep operators provided us with information at our second campground that would be in Hana. The woman who ran the campground did not respond to emails, phone calls, or texts as we were last minute and their was bit service at her campground. We were told to get there before five by the jeep renter guy and she should have plenty of space.

This felt like another gamble of the trip as Hana took about 2 1/2 hours to get too. What if we couldn't find the campground or there was no space? I felt a little rude intruding on someone else's property. But we planned for this campground anyways.

Road to Hana mile marker 1

When we first left, we forgot to fill on gas and had to drive 15 minutes back to do so. This was cutting it close for time as we would arrive at 4:45. We drove a straight shot from Paia to Hana. I would not let Dan drive because 1) These roads are narrow and windy and I would rather be in control 2) I'm slower and much more careful. Dan was a good sport (for the most part) letting me drive the whole Hana. He just felt like he was going to die in the passenger seat.

Dan and I passed all the shops and pull offs to hiking and waterfalls - as that is what we planned to do on our way back (tomorrow).

We finally made it to Hana and the campground area. I dropped dan off at the food truck to get us dinner while I hunted down the owner as it was 5pm on the dot. Dan lid $70 for 2 poke bowls and a smoothie - wow.

She came out of this very simple hut, almost like a cabin. She was Hawaiian and really nice and accommodated the fact we didn't have a reservation. I paid $65 for the campsite and was told checkout was at 11. The odd thing was I had to sign a paper I wouldn't tell anybody or post on social media the name or location of the campground. I don't think this counts...

Dan and I set up camp, there was outdoor showers and outhouses. I think my body resists outhouses because I barely needed to use them. The ocean view was gorgeous but unreachable unless we walked 20 minutes to the beach access. It was getting late and Dan didn't want to risk it.

Dan and I tossed the frisbee back and forth a few times and played a few card games. This is where I learn dan doesn't know how to fancy shuffle.

I continuously would get really tired around 7:30, falling asleep by 8/830. This evening I was so Hot in our tent I couldn't sleep. Dan wouldn't let me take the cover off as he was afraid of any flash rain. He also didn't want either side fully unzipped because if it did rain it would get inside. I spent the night pretty uncomfortable due to the heat. At this point I wanted it to rain on me.

#roadtohana #Hana #camping #traveling #maui #adventure

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seecourtneytravel · 2 years

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MAUI July 2022

June has been packed with activities! I figured it's time to start writing down the things I did during vacations, or the memories would start fading away!

For our six day Maui adventure, Dan and I rented a 4X4 Nissan Xterra that was fully loaded with camping supplies (tent, hammock, cooking supplies, cooler, sleeping Matt's, chairs, sleeping bags, etc..). After finding and committing to the buy on Airbnb, the total for our housing and car was $880 for the both of us! Not only did we get the vehicle, but the host gave us a very detailed idea of where to camp in Maui and tips and tricks to really maximize our time there.

Dan and I didn't plan for our first two nights stay and had only booked the July 2nd- July 5 at Olowalu campground- which is highly recommended. We figured we would plan as we go (maybe not recommend this though it worked for us!)

Travel Day - June 30,2022

We woke up at 3:30am and left the house within 15 minutes after waking. We arrived to Sacramento airport at 5:15 in the morning and boarded an on time flight at 7AM. Dan conveniently parked on the street at his old school and we took a $30 Uber/Lyft to the airport from there.

The flight was an easy five hours and was the first domestic flight I've ever taken that offered a complimentary meal! Knowing this I wouldn't have bought a $30 dry airport breakfast! Props to Hawaiian Airlines ✈️

Arrived to Maui

After arriving to Kahului Airport (OGG) at 9:40, I contacted the Airbnb host on possibly picking up the vehicle early, as we had nearly five hours to spare. They were not able to as the previous renters still had the vehicle. I started researching who could hold our luggage as well and found this "Bounce" app that is apparently all over. You simply pick the location and take a Lyft to that location while you can hands free explore for a little bit. This random warehouse watched our luggage for 3 or 4 hours for $15.

From the luggage storing warehouse, we walked to the nearest beach with our snorkel gear. I definitely recommend bringing your own snorkel gear or purchasing on the island. I can thank Dan for buying mine for the trip!

After a two mile walk through Maui's industrial plant, Dan soon realizes his crocks were not made for long walks as he started to get that thing on the back of your heals. He was a good sport about it and just scuffed his way there. The beach we found was gorgeous and barely anyone was there. I can imagine it was due to the high winds as they would blast you with sand, but it was otherwise an amazing sand beach! We even stumbled upon a sea turtle who might have been sunbathing or laying eggs.

Here are some photos at Kanaha Beach Park - a place where you can have the utmost privacy!

The snorkel here was minimal, as not much coral was found. I was stilling getting used to mine and found myself still swallowing ocean water which was a me problem not a snorkel problem. Dan went out for a longer swim while I sat in the sand wind. But the sand wind was worth this experience as we waited for our jeep to be ready!

As we were finishing up at the beach, Dan had bought only corral and reef safe sunscreen as there are harmful chemicals in most sunscreens that ruin and contribute to dying coral. We realized we needed some sunscreen that was for day use as the coral reef one was like rain-x on our bodies while thick and tacky.

I just thought the rain-x description describes it best!

We then walked two miles back to town and saw ROSS clothing store. There we bought sunscreen and a few hygienic supplies. Something about Ross makes me want to buy a lot of things I don't need...so that's what I did!

As we were walking out we were notified our car was ready for pick up and it was only 1:30. We hurried back to the BOUNCE warehouse. Dan stayed with the luggage while I ran a 0.25 miles down the road where our car conveniently was!

It was in the 70's or 80's for temperature but the humidity was at 85%, I couldn't not have ran even the 0.25 miles!

When I got there I was introduced the vehicle, maps, and packing list. Signed a bunch of stuff saying I wouldn't break anything and asked some last minute advice before I took off. I told him Dan and I did not plan for the first two nights stay in Maui and he said that the first stop being the bee sanctuary was our best bet. We texted this women names Erica who owned the property and was told to receive the exact address we just needed to donate $50 to the website. It felt good to stay at a place that was helping their bee business. Before driving to the unknown, we took advantage of Planet Fitnesses showers and even did a 30 minute workout. We grabbed food at Walmart and even stopped at some food trucks.

I ordered three meals and Dan said, "did you really order all that! We should really try eating healthy on this trip." I may have "over did it" and felt gross after lol. I ordered a sampler platter, some banana fried rolls, and spring rolls. I definitely felt like I needed a new gallbladder afterwards. This was the last time I ever wanted food truck food. Dan ordered a gyro, it looks way more fresh and satisfying!

We then drove about 50 minutes to the address in the southern part of Maui.

We made it to the Bee sanctuary where a few other jeep renters (from the same company!) we're there! We made it there right at 5pm when they were just closing down there little bee hut. Dan and I were able to say hi to the three young people who were running it. They seemed to be in there 20's while one was from Mexico, another from Germany, and another from somewhere in the US. It was interesting they were working in the middle of nowhere in Maui. I felt inclined to buy a small jar of honey 🍯.

Dan and I began setting up camp. It was nice because they had wooden platforms as the ground was one large hill. This is when we started noticing cockroaches everywhere. But for some reason you weren't AS bothered because you know you're just in a climate for them.

We then met a few woman traveling solo who were both from Portland, Oregon. One was there for a week and the other was traveling around for an entire year!

As night started to set in, I was feeling less social to stay up and chat with the camp people as I was tired from the day. Dan wanted to look at the stars. He brought his laser pointer and super flashlight and we used those to just walk around the property. We saw about a dozen wild cows, I kept asking dan to touch them. He was hesitant as he should have been because we then noticed two wild bulls with them!

Another jeep like ours pulled up and we met the driver who's name was Jeremy. We pointed them out where they could camp but we think their group just slept on the ground. Which is wild because there were a lot of roaches and spiders there!

It was super dark at this time and the stars were amazing - it was nice to have been able to find a safe and quiet camping spot for the first night!

During the night, it was super windy. It added to the adventure, but the nature noises were definitely making me paranoid throughout the night. Dan would wake up to find my head looking out the tent window. I would constantly say, "oh my god the cows are coming." And they started grazing all around our tent area. The camp dog, Koa, would be sprinting all around randomly as well. Then there was this bird that sounded like a screeching human or Pterodactyl being murdered. I oddly still felt pretty rested even though I was up a lot. I was worried about the people who were sleeping on the ground!

Tomorrow our plan was to make contact with a Hana campground and camp there overnight! Along with a downhill Haleakala bike ride!

#hawaii #Mauicamping #maui #camping #travel #adventure #epicmauicampingadventure #kanahabeach

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seecourtneytravel · 4 years

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Mt. Whitney climb

November 24, 2019

Last weekend was an incredible trip to the Sierra Nevada mountains and hiking Mt. Whitney!

***22 miles and 16 hours on foot 🥾 ***

*****made it 5,200 ft elevation GAINS 💪 *****

~~~> max elevation 13,123ft <~~~~~~

Though we were 2.75 miles from the finish, we made it the furthest of anyone that day. We trailblazed through 3 feet of snow due to the trail being non existent to a certain point before running out of time. Extremely humbling of a hike!

Here’s a rather lengthy detail of the weekend.

FRIDAY: Our planned intention was to climb Mt. Langley but when we arrived at the trailhead it was closed 13 miles out. We decided to set up camp in Lone Pine campground and head to the visitor Center in the AM. It was FREEZING but survivable.

SATURDAY: The visitor Center people said the trail was closed due to a massive snow storm 4 days prior. We drove over 4 hrs and were really bummed to hear that our plan was in shambles. Then they said Mt. Whitney is open- we grabbed a permit and headed to the Mountaineering store for more supplies to better our chances on the trek. I never thought getting a permit was so easy (especially for mt. Whitney), but it was a non favourable time of year for the climb.

We rented cramp ons and other major things and headed to the Whitney portal to acclimate as much as we could before the climb. The elevation was at about 8,000 feet and had a plowed car park area with a snowed in campground. We dug snow out from an outdoor grill stove and made a fire. Another person joined our fire who intended doing the trek alone. We were in bed by 6pm for an early rise. I felt bad for Alex because of the 3 cheese sausages I ate with beans. He was doomed to be trapped in a car with me after that.

SUNDAY: We woke up around 1:30am and left by 2:30. The stars were incredible at this time. For the next three hours we hiked in pitch black with head lamps. The path was pretty obvious but snowy. It was 3 miles just to get to the trailhead because we didn’t tent camp. This added more unnecessary mileage and time. But we also didn’t have proper equipment to camp during this season and at this elevation 🥶.

The sun coming up at 6am was the first motivating check point to happen. Between 6-9 the weather started to really hit my toes and Alex’s fingers in not the best way. Any minimal stopping caused us to freeze up. Just Alex refilling water in the river caused near frostbite to his hand.

We ran into our new solo friend who was already heading back down. He apparently had an even early start but turned back due to elevation. Alex and I were suprises to say the least.

9am came- another motivating checkpoint that it wasn’t only daylight, but we were exposed to an hour or so of sun! Layers were coming off and it felt promising we were doing well! Until the sun moved behind all the high rise mountains. The chill and shade set in and breaks were no longer enjoyable.

Between 9am and 12 was when the hard times caught up a bit. Altitude was becoming noticeable , intermittent freeze points were happening, and snow was getting heavier to walk through. Alex got all sorts of goofy due to the altitude and I would have to stop after every other switchback to catch my breath.

We ran into one couple during the hike that we passed and who had eventually caught up to us as we ran into the trail coming to an end due to snow. They followed behind our trailblazing and then eventually turned around due snow getting in their boots. They didn’t have gaiters on for protection. Alex and I pushed through about a half of a mile threough fluffy deep snow which may have taken an hour of time. We eventually turned around at 1230-1 because of time. We hiked 9 1/2 hours UP and did not want to be hiking back in the dark DOWN.

The hike down really exhausted us (me actually. It was just me). People always think downhill is easier but not for me. We kept falling and misstepping. Though it was 1pm or 2pm the mountains really shaded the valley hike making us chase the sun - or else we were in bitter freezing shade.

The hike down felt way longer than up. We couldn’t believe the ground we covered. Near the last three miles it felt like everything had turned to ice. I felt like Forest Gump when he didn’t feel like running anymore. Our biggest motivation was to return the crampons we didn’t use before the store closed because then we’d be charged an extra $5 lol. And of course warmth and a rewarding burger with hot chocolate.

Overall I enjoyed this hike and the intensity of it. Obviously during it, a lot of swearing and mumbling of some negative thoughts was happening. but that’s what a challenge does to someone. Along with that is a lot of self pep talks and convincing that you CAN push forward. People who wanted to experience easy would not being doing this. The weather added a bit of extreme to it that only a few people were attempting. You would think on a weekend this hike would still have sold out permits, especially for a mountain that sells out for when the hiking is more comfortable to camp and climb.

We really covered a lot of ground and feel super accomplished for trying this last minute. We never really had time to research anything about the challenge we went against. I believe we would have made it if we camped at 12,000 feet where a campsite was but didn’t have the winter equipment to do so. I leaned a lot from doing this hike and am ready to try it again when the opportunity arises!

Things I learned this past weekend:

1) don’t outdoor camp in freezing temperatures with a Walmart sleeping bag (but it was on sale!)

2) don’t eat cheese sausages and beans prior to hiking

3) wear WINTER hiking boots not just waterproof ones

4) don’t always listen to the mountaineer guy in the store- I left my microspikes in the car because he said I didn’t need them- I could have used them the whole time

5) google how much something is before you pay for it in a private store- like a boot brand and style (yeah.. they got us)

6) have more hand and foot warmers

7) make sure your water doesn’t freeze

There’s probably a ton more...

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 31, 2018- Nov. 6th

Day 9 EBC (get to the choppa)

Lobuche -> Pheriche

Today I woke up with a sore throat, feeling a bit shaky, but felt nothing like yesterday. Have you ever felt so bad the previous day, your mediocre day feels like a million dollars? That’s how this was! The acute mountain sickness was gone I believe. I just felt empty and dehydrated.

I went downstairs and ordered some French toast. I wanted a simple breakfast with not a lot of pieces to it. I tried to hydrate up as I hung out in the lobby. It was around 8am and most trekkers have cleared out already. Brian and Luciano we’d supposed to have trekked down behind me, but according to Luciano he said he walked outside and felt a heavy chill in the air and went back inside while at Gorak Shep. I was just sitting on a horse in that unmotivating chill that same night so I don’t blame them for not coming last night with me. They were both expected to come at 10-1030 am.

I felt really good! Beside my feet being kind of cold. I put my gloves on my feet and layed back on the wall length cushioned bench, and sun bathed my feet in the window. I couldn’t help but notice some Nepali’s outside laying in their sleeping bags on the ground in the sun. It was comical but made sense in a way because it looked warm (besides the wind chill).

As usual I was days behind in my journal and was just typing away. Trying to quickly spew a day or two out before Brian and Luciano arrived. Ten o’clock came quickly and they walked in the door shortly after.

“You’re looking a lot better!,” they both said. I agreed I felt a lot better as well. After a few minutes I joined them to start trekking downwards.

I was all set. I did a little mental check list to myself. “Got my poles-check..got my hat-check..got my wipes-check..got my water- check.” I headed outside and the gang already kind of trailed ahead. After about 10 or 30 steps I immediately felt some dryness starting to Build up to my left eye. It was windy and cold, I thought I better start by putting my drops in. I stopped and tilted my head back, in my front zipper I brought out my single ampule Systane eye drops. Afterwards it felt okay.

Approximately 10 minutes later, my left eye was worse than before. The super chilly wind continued. I tried to place a few more drops in but I realized I was exposing my eye to the rough environment more. There wasn’t a way I could put the drops in and their wasn’t a way to soothe my left eye. I took my nighttime eye cover and made it into an eye patch. The entire trek I stared down at Brian’s feet as he paced slowly in front of me for my convenience.

After a few hours we reached a lunch spot. I realized I couldn’t even look up with my right eye because it made my left eye look up and caused a stabbing pain. During lunch, I blindly ate French toast and laid down on the bench and tried to have eye stillness as long as possible.

Prolhad tapped me asking if I was okay and if I could make it two more hours. I was optimistic and said yes. During the trek back we ran up another group from Mosaic trekking company. As Prolhad talked with the other guide, Brian and I talked to the two trekkers with them. It was a really fun conversation that lifted my spirit up. I talked to the guys staring at nothing but their feet with one eye and they thought it was hysterical. I told them about my altitude sickness issue and then about my growing eye problem. The two young guys from England cracked jokes and made comments how I’m good spirits. They started mentioning their third party trekker was from Singapore. “Where is she?” I asked. The British guy said “she fucked off, I don’t care.” Apparently the Singapore girl hated walking, trekking, eating, sleeping, using the bathroom, and didn’t get along with the two British guys. The way he said it in his accent was hilarious to me though. Made me feel not so handicapped at the moment.

After leaving the funny British guys, we arrived to camp about two hours later. I stayed up as long as I could but went to rest my eyes around about 7 or 8pm. I could only keep the one eye open still. I was thankful I brought my own drops but wasn’t thankful I didn’t have thicker ones with me. I headed to bed for a restless night's sleep.

Brian and I had our own room. I was up before his alarm at 5am. I knew it wasn't good. I couldn’t open either of my eyes. My right didn’t hurt but ANY movement to the good eye brought me to my knees to my left eye. It was a familiar feeling of a corneal abrasion. For me, you don’t have to have something scratching your eye to get a corneal abrasion. You can just get LASIK surgery and the epithelial layer will detach itself. But don’t worry; nobody else I’ve met who has had lasik has had this problem. It’s just me.

“Hey, brian…” I said as his alarm went off. “Can you get Prolhad, my eyes are worse.” Brian kindly packed my bag for me and got Prolhad. As soon as Prolhad walked in the door I had myself a good high school cry. Like tears of finally being defeated. He went and got Luciano to put it in perspective for me of why I probably should take a helicopter out. I was resistant to the idea but it made sense. I kept both eyes closed and Prolhad said, “okay let’s go in the dining room.”

I followed Prolhad like a blind person because there was no sense in forcing even my good eye open. Prolhad called Madhav, the owner of Mosaic, to call a helicopter. We sat in the dining room for about three hours waiting for the helicopter in which my entire team would descend with me.

Get to the choppa!

The helicopter arrived. In my head I remember seeing helicopter after helicopter making passes over my head towards the mountains during the nine days of trekking. Not one ounce of me thought I would be the one to have to be taken out. For an Eye especially. I even descended manually by foot (and horse) after altitude sickness to avoid the headache of a helicopter bill. That was all that was on my mind was the bill at the end. Outsiders say, “but your health is more important.” I guess that’s the stubborn part of me.

I hear the helicopter but have no orientation to where the helicopter is. Prolhad said to me, “he’s gonna carry you to the helicopter.” Before I could even say “what?” Or “who?,” a small porter picks me up and gives me a piggyback ride to the chopper. I heard a stream below us as he was hopping from rock to rock. I still kept my eyes closed but felt his every movement.

When we got to to the helicopter, they were assisting me in and directing me where to sit. My first helicopter ride I couldn’t even see out the window or what was happening. Luciano plopped next to me and gave me a good sports talk. Brian sat by him along with Prolhad at the opposite end. It was like everything and anything was making me cry at this point. So the whole blindly getting on a helicopter part with my eyes not opening, with severe severe pain, I just sat on the Heli and cried. Luciano was a great booster, he definitely made a difference and added a level of comfort to my last day on the base camp trail.

The 45 minute helicopter flight went to Lukla airport and filled on gas then went right to Kathmandu airport. Waiting there was an ambulance. In my head all I was thinking was, “you gotta be kidding me.. can we just get a cab?!” They turned on their lights and sirens on and at this point I was embarrassed. I know I couldn’t see but I know I didn’t need all the bells and whistles to help my eye.

We arrived to the hospital and I talked to the emergency physician within 15 minutes. He attempted to open my eye and my resisted it. He said, “I’ll be right back, I’ll call our ophthalmologist.” Inside I was excited they had one. He came back five minutes later saying, “well good news is she will come see you today.. after five o’clock.” It was only noon at this time. “We will put you in a dark room while you wait,” said the Dr. I asked him to put some proparacaine drops in and he said he couldn’t do that. So for 6 hours, I waited for the ophthalmologist, in the same discomfort I woke up with. Because nothing is really ever on time in the ER.

I really grew some patience. I had what tasted like a garlic sandwich and some fries they brought me for lunch, room a nap, and called my family. Brian and Luciano went back to the hotel

It was 1730, the doctor finally came in. Prolhad arrived as well and was there for moral support. I think he also had to be there for company purposes. She took me in an eye exam room and this would be my first time being a patient in another country. I immediately asked for numbing drops. It was weird it was like she didn’t plan on using the proparicain until I asked. She looked at my eye and said she was going to remove some “hanging epithelium.” When I hear remove I think of cutting it with knifes and I didn’t know what she meant. She returned with a cotton swab, saturated it with some saline, and under the lenses was brushing my eye. She constantly kept repeating how loose my epithelium was. She said she would need to place a bandage contact but didn’t have one with her and it would have to be the next day. “In the meantime, we’re gonna try to bandage your eye so you can’t blink.” All in all, I left at 7pm with a huge hideous bandage on my eye. I was told not to remove it.

The next day Brian and Pralad took me to the doctors at a large “teaching hospital” so I could get the contact lense placed. My eye was still bright red, uncomfortable and watering. Prolhad came back from a pharmacy area and had purchased the contact. It came in a glass vial, it was really weird they didn’t have it in an easy accessible plastic container that can be easily opened. It almost seemed more expensive their way.

The student started to give direction on when he was putting the contact lense in and how. I could tell it was his first time. He initially dropped it and it landed on me. He picked it up and said it would be easier in the contact lab room. He cleaned it off with what I hope was sterile solution. It looked like a Frankenstein’s lab, just creepy and empty. There was a reflective area I can barely call a mirror he had me look into and really forced the contact in. Once in, I was still super uncomfortable for the remaining two days until it was removed.

Two day later, I went back on Sunday and they removed it. She said if this is a recurrent problem you need PRK. The doctor was surprised the doctors in the states didn’t see that. Now I have to figure that out when I get home.

The remaining week in Themal, Kathmandu, I spent my time eating quality food in touristy cafes and restaurants, squinting one eye, sleeping a lot in a hotel, waking up to continental breakfasts, developing a cold, sinus infection/cough, and having a plugged ear the entire time from the helicopter ride. (It’s still plugged as I sit in the airport). It was a much needed week of rest and recovery.

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 30, 2018 (Tuesday)

Gained some resilience points on this day!

Day 8 Everest base Camp trek

Lobuche—>Gorekshep—> base camp—gorek Shep —>lobuche

Today was the day. The day we all trekked for. I woke up at 4am, turned on my phone to turn on my alarm for 0515. Sounds confusing, but it was like my internal clock went off. We all packed our bags and were down for breakfast before 6. We started our long 8 hour day at 7am.

I don’t think I’ve ever rallied and willingly woke up at 7am for a vacation to exercise. I couldn’t find the willpower to do this at home everyday at 7am. I would be that type to wear yoga pants in the morning, to intend to go to the gym but end up going the last stent of the day at 9pm instead. This trip so far had definitely made me more resilient of a person.

The plan: start our trek in Lobuche at 5,030 meters to Gorak Shep 5140 (4 hours). From Gorak Shep we would have lunch and then head to Everest base camp for 2 hours trekking at 5,364 meters. Then return to Gorak Shep to sleep. Total trekking time 8 hours.

Today. The longest and most challenging of days. The first two hours I felt fine. I was keeping up with the group. There was one particular hill we were trekking up I started to feel the familiar head squeezing experience I had felt on the acclimation day in Lobuche. I pushed through that climb and did fine so I felt the same for this day- just keep pushing. I figured I would keep it slow and keep hydrating. I know the previous day I didn’t hydrate as much- maybe 3 litres of water during the trek but stopped drinking at 6pm. Throughout the night I know I was dehydrating for 12 hours while sleeping and resting which is what I was relating my head fullness feeling too. At this point I tried to play catch up and drink as much as possible.

The head squeezing ear fullness didn’t go away. I was a bit worried at this point. I still had my positive attitude but was nervous at the same time. I didn’t want to think about not completing but when the squeeze continued and didn’t go away I was concerned.

We arrived to Gorak Shep for lunch. I made it this far but wasn’t feeling right. We were only two hours away from Everest base camp. Two hours there and two hours back. I was expressing my concerns to everyone. Luciano was concerned but encouraged me how close we were to the end. Brian and Luciano didn’t have any symptoms of altitude sickness, headaches, or head pressure. Prolhad was very big on diet. He encouraged me to eat my spaghetti lunch for the energy of the last trek ahead. I could only eat half.

A man from England introduced himself, said he overheard our conversation. He was giving me breathing techniques and other tips to hopefully overcome my feelings I was having in my head. It was an interesting case for me though, my heart and lungs had no struggle- it was my mind that was playing games with me. I had the best heart rate and oxygen saturation throughout the trek. I think it was something out of my control at this point. I took what the guy said and tried to remember it as we departed for the last four hours of the day. I quickly forgot what he said as the conversation ended and went back to worry mode.

We departed. I struggled. I pushed through, I tried to keep my feelings of doubt to myself. It’s hard to know what someone can actually push themselves through before it’s an emergency. Like when is it actually leading to an emergency? I’ve never experienced this before so it was all that was in my mind and it was my judgement call.

Just less than an hour in. I had to stop. I said to the group with my head down, “I think I’m gonna have to turn around.” My group asked if I was serious. I said, “ yes it’s getting worse.” I felt tears rolling down my eyes and rested my head on my trekking poles. I was getting dizzy.

After about five minutes of sitting, I said “let’s keep going, I’m feeling a little better.” I sucked my tears back in and moved forward. I think I only felt better because I convinced myself how close we were. After another 15 minutes we reached a halfway sign. My dizziness continued. I drank as much water as I could at every mini stop. It felt like the water wasn’t going anywhere though and it was just sitting in my stomach. I ran into a girl and her family I met a few tea houses ago. She said, “You’re so close!” I said back with humor, “I am? maybe I’ll just ignore my symptoms then.” She laughed and pressed on passed me.

The team separated, Prolhad stayed with me as I lagged behind the group. He said, “look, that’s Everest and that’s the base camp right there!” I took a few photos, asked how long until we were there. He said about 20 minutes. As I looked out, there was a large down hill slope to the base camp onto the glacier. I was concerned I couldn’t make it back up the hill. I then asked, “What is so special and different down there that I’m not seeing from here?” At this point I was weighing out if my health was worth a view. He said, “Just the Everest base camp sign.” I said “let’s go back.” Prolhad responded, “Are you sure? You’re so close!” I said, “okay let’s keep going then.” I was so easily swayed to move forward though it felt like I was trekking through six foot cement in my head.

The dizziness turned to vertigo. After 20 steps, I called Prolhad back and said I couldn’t go on. He said “okay, I’m sorry Courtney” with a sorry look in his eyes. “I’m so shocked it was you that couldn’t make it.” I think I would have felt better if he didn’t apologize and made it seem like it it was no big deal. He had to run back to return Brians backpack. I sat there and waited for him. As I waited, people passed me. I got up and started walking in the direction of Basecamp. Prolhad ran back and I told him, “I just want to get a little closer.” He said okay. After I reached my limit, I had him snap a photo of me as I was as close as I could get and was at my final wits. I finally turned back for good. The photo was probably the worst looking photo of me on the trek. My face was swollen looking and it looked just gross- not at all inspirational. It looked like I lived on chocolate and steroids but hated myself for standing there.

As Prolhad and I walked back to Gorak Shep, I felt very out of sorts. Even as I was walking back the symptoms were worsening. I was dizzy, my head was full, and I felt disoriented. Prolhad kept checking on me, but I kept up with him as he was quickly pacing forward. Gorak Shep felt hours and hours away like a narrowing tunnel when it was maybe 90 minutes or so.

Once arrived to Gorak Shep, the elevation was still at 5140 meters. It’s interesting because I climbed just over 5100 meters during my acclimation climb, felt subtle symptoms but not like this. I sat in the dining area feeling “uncomfortable.” Almost like doom was clouding over me but I couldn’t describe it. Sitting near the fireplace was our trekking teams friend, who we constantly ran into, Tom. I met Tom at the airport just before Lukla.

I waved at Tom who stared in my direction in haze. It took a moment for him to realize who I was I think. I asked him how he was feeling and he just shook his head in a “No” matter. He came over and sat by me telling me about his experience on the mountain. He said he became suddenly ill, threw up on the mountain and had to disoriently find his way back without his guide. Tom’s guide was terrible. He was never really there for his group like our guide was. And to send someone with acute mountain sickness on their own back is another terrible idea.

“I’m trying to figure out if I should call a helicopter,” I said to Tom. Tom said he was too and was talking to his mother about his insurance plan. I asked Prolhad about using his satellite phone to call my insurance. I dialed and a muffled lady answered as I called world nomad. I read this situation in detail online, but never thought it would happen to me.

I was having a hard time hearing the lady on the other line. I stepped in the entryway, Prolhad followed sitting across from me looking for an answer whether he should call a helicopter or not. The woman started asking for my symptoms . I responded, “dizziness, heads gonna explode, severe nausea, and nausea.” She began to give me a case number to follow up with. After I recited it back to her I felt this intense wave of illness come over me.

I ran outside and did a quick assessment of where to vomit. There were about 20 people outside congregating, I’m pretty sure they all heard and saw me in action as I made a quick decision to vomit in a short alley. All I can say is: Spaghetti and Water. None of it was digested. It’s like my body quit processing hydration and energetic resources and the AMS took over like some kind of plague. My porter and Prolhad placed their hand on my forehead as I wretched and heaved until there was nothing left in me. I asked Prolhad to call the helicopter.

As I sat, a little embarrassed, I felt maybe 10% better. I told him we would wait for Brian an Luciano to return to make a decision. It was about an hour or so wait before they returned. At this point I backed out of the helicopter idea, th vomiting subsides the idea for some reason.

I still felt pretty bad at this point. I didn’t know if my symptoms were my brain exploding like cerebral edema or your everyday typical walk in the park AMS.

When Brian and Luciano returned, I could sense they felt bad for me. They could hardly look at me the same for all we had been through 9 days trekking and rooming together, and I had to turn around. It reminded me of the same presence of having some kind of death in the family. This is one of those occasions where, “you don’t look so good” isn’t so bad to hear. If I looked great then I’d be pissed I didn’t finish the last 20 minutes.

“You don’t look so good,” said Luciano. I tried not to cry because I’m still in the disappointment stage. If you didn’t know, this stage lasts for about 3 days after major subtle moments in a woman’s life. Examples: breakups, car problems, death of hamster, losing a college sports tournament..not making it to base camp.

“We have to descend,” said Prolhad after a brief discussion with the guys. “Whether by foot or helicopter.” Luciano gave me his dexamethasone for safe measures. Just in case my symptoms were worsening post projectile vomiting. “I asked Prolhad what he thought I should do, he said after looking at me up and down, “I think you can walk.”

Prolhad and I started to descend on foot, it was almost 430pm when we started. Every step felt bit unsure, and I was asking how much farther way way to early in the game. I was slow and moping down the trail. Prolhad asks, “how are you feeling?” I would respond “same.” I felt a super chill in the air and didn’t feel like walking anymore but I was already an hour in. And by “not feeling like it, I don’t mean I was bored of it. I just simply felt like shit. Turning back wasn’t an option.

To my pleasant surprise, I heard the bells of a horse behind me. I said to Prolhad, “how much to take a horse back.” He asked if I was serious, I didn’t see how that sounded like a joke though. He talked in Nepalize to the guy riding it, after thinking about it he said $50. I still have a cheap side of me that waved it off like it was too expensive.

After a few minutes, Prolhad was in front of me a ways, I yelled, “how about for forty?” Prolhad ran over a small him where I couldn’t see him or the trekking horseman. When I caught up the guy was off his horse waiting for me. All I was thinking was “oh my lucky stars!!!”

The horse was close to the mountainside. I put my foot in the stir up and aboarded? See, horse riding is not my thing. I was a little intimidated about the horse taking me down some rough terrain. As we forwarded, the horse sadly went at walking speed. I was picturing a light trot to get me back like in some heroic movie. What funny is that Prolhad was caring my bag and his while I was pretty much falling asleep while sitting on a horse at human walking speed. It’s just funny to look back on it.

Whatever time it was, it was getting dark. And COLD. I couldn’t feel my toes and my hands were icy numb. The clouds were at our level like some haunted movie. The horse would steer off sometimes going straight up a mountain with me on it. One time I panicked verbally and repeatedly asked Prolhad “What do I do what do I do!” Because the horse would start stumbling and fall way forward or backward. I probably had the clumsiest horse ever. I still believe it had rubber ankles. I had probably 4 near misses of becoming the miss Christopher Reeve.

After about two hours of a numbingly cold horse ride for forty dollars, we made it to Lobuche. The horse was directed to some cement block that was perfect for me to roll off on. I literally rolled off the horse on to this cement thing, crawled down and opened the first door I found to a random building.

I recognized this place as the cafe Brian, Luciano and I had coffee and cake in previously. It was closed but I still stumbled my way to their cushioned bench chattering my teeth. I was freezing and couldn’t get warm. I couldn’t move my toes. Looking back, I should have walked. It would have been just as fast and I would have kept warm. But I didn’t have the energy and it got really dark outside, I probably saved some other unfortunate tragedy.

Prolhad walked in and said the porter hasn’t brought my large bag yet. He was unsure if he was coming. Prolhad warmed a thermos with boiling water, put his buff around it and had it near my feet. He manually warmed my hands and he wasn’t cold one bit. It took about an hour for me to start warming up.

Prolhad had me go in the tea houses dining area and encouraged me to eat something. I had no appetite but ordered the tomato soup to humor him. By the time it arrived I smelled it and left it. People were all staring at me asking me if I was okay. I just said “altitude sickness.” The guy next to me was super annoying rubbing in how much I missed out, why didn’t I take the diamox, how he saw someone taking a horse and thought it was crap. I wanted to tell him to go to hell, but I just kind of faded out his image and voice and closed my eyes. When I opened them I saw people in the full dining area looking at me and talking to their friends and then their friends looking back at me. When my bag came I told prolhad I wanted to go to bed. He sent me to bed with a slice of toast, hot water, and his hot thermos bottle for my feet. I slipped a diamox at dinner hoping it would help me feel better out of desperation. The only thing it did was make me get out of bed in the freezing cold to use the creepy bathroom 3 times in the night.

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 29, 2018 (Monday)

Day 7 Everest Base Camp

Dingboche -> Lobuche

Today was a long trek. We all woke up feeling great. Even Brian sprung out of bed and had a noticeable energy about him. I’m not sure if the antibiotics started to kick in, but he seemed to have been getting better. Luciano led the pack as always. It’s funny he always thinks he’s the slower one but really he always ends up in front of Brian and I.

Leaving Dingboche, we’re surrounded by some really amazing mountains. We had to keep stopping to take photos. I would have to turn my phone off after each cluster of photos so my battery would stay alive. Brian and Luciano had some really nice cameras, I’m hoping to snag some of their photos by the end of the trip.

It’s crazy that 20 walking steps showed an entirely different 360 view of our surroundings. Today, Prolhad said we would have an hour of easy trekking followed by some climbing. When we reached the climbing part, we all completed it with ease. We were all feeling pretty good.

We completed most of the climb and we stopped at 10am. We all decided to keep going instead of eating an early lunch. None of us were hungry and felt energized and well paced.

We came across a place called “Memory hill.” It was a very chilling memorial of those who died climbing Mount Everest. After watching the movie “Into thin air,” I saw the real life memorial of those in that film. Some shocked me, like three guys called the three amigos and others who died during the 2015 avalanche. It was a very moving experience.

It’s hard to write in words what memory him was like. Here are some photos.

We arrived at Lobuche where we would be staying for the night at Hotel Mother Earth. It was 2pm and we all had a late lunch. Brian had this awesome pizza and I had egg fried rice. Luciano had some Asian noodles. We were kind of getting tired of the same foods, but the fact it came with the itinerary was a bonus. We were advised to order our meal for dinner right after lunch. It’s hard to order when you’re full. Luciano and I ordered Brian’s pizza because his tasted that good.

All of us took a nap. Our accomodation was super tight, three twin beds a foot from each other. Brian and I slept for about 90 minutes and Luciano the entire three hours. Prolhad knocked on the door at like 545pm seeing if we were okay because dinner was at 6 and we weren’t downstairs yet.

We had our meals served to us just as we arrived. Luciano and I got our pizzas and they tasted nothing like Brian’s earlier. We could only eat half and Brian only could finish half of his potatoes. It was too close to our lunch time. We all were pretty tired and went to bed at 7-8pm. Apparently with elevation, you don’t sleep well but it just made our group want to sleep more. At this elevation everyone seemed to start getting the common elevation cough. The kumbo cough I think it’s called: from the cold thin air and dust. Usually goes away when you’re back to baseline elevation. The next morning we would leave at 7, be up by 0515am. The next day we would see Everest Base Camp after 8 hours of trekking.

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 28, 2018 (Sunday)

Day 6 Everest base camp trek

My personal Everest climb

Today was our “acclimating” day or “rest” day. We were still all intended to do a short hike to help with the acclimatisation. Brian was not fit for it due to his worsening bronchitis and was going to rest. Last night he was coughing up green phlegm pretty good so I gave him amoxicillin to start taking. Luciano has a tweak in his knee and wanted to rest. So it was just me. The hike was straight up hill for over 600 meters. There were two stopping locations. The first flagged area was very low but still straight up hill. The second one was much farther at 5,100 meters straight up beyond the first flag.

My first time getting ready on my own was a little less motivating. It was definitely a test of my strength today. I was early to arrive to breakfast. It was 645 am and I was ready to go. I stood by the wood stove chilled with my hands and feet numb and asleep. A guy from New Zealand maybe my dads age approached the opposite side of the stove. He mentioned him, his daughter, and his daughters friend had made the aclimization climb already the previous day and were heading out that morning. I asked him if he made it to the top and the man simply said, “you have too.” When I hear that it’s hard for me to go only half way. In my mind. I was going to the top.

After breakfast I had my water bladder and water bottle filled and treated. My feet were still numb and I felt like it was a morning of going to the gym on a freezing day or that I was trekking for the purpose of war. Not many people would call what I’m doing a “vacation.”

Prolhad and I began the trek. “Let’s go” he said. He paced ahead of me. Immediately after leaving the tea house the trek began on a sharp uphill climb. The start of all treks or exercises on a cold body killed me inside. My heart would feel like it was going to explode and I would be easily winded. The starting elevation was at 4,400 meters which meant there was only 60% of oxygen in the air. At the end climb, the oxygen in the air would only at 53% due to the elevation of 5,100 meters (16,500ish feet).

I felt easily winded. My hands were freezing but I needed the poles to help keep my momentum and pace. My pace was slow and steady. Prolhad didn’t even appear out of breath or bothered by the climb. It looked like a day in the park to him. After what seemed to be be an hour uphill we made it to the first flagged area. I sat down, more like plopped down. I was exhausted. Not my feet or my legs but my heart and my head. I kept my head buff on the entire time due to dust and cold air to protect my lungs but I felt the squeezing pressure from the elevation in my head. As I sat there I tried to read myself and how I was doing and if I should go on.

And older man walked by breathing heavily, stopping every 10 steps. He had a beard and head full of grey hair. I saw his intentions were to pass me as I sat on a rock passed the flagged monument. I said to him, “you going all the way?” He said “you have too,” just like the other man. “One foot in front of the other,” he mentioned as he passed me. I said to my guide Prohlad, “let’s keep going.” He didn’t hesitate to press on with me but did mention I didn’t have to do it. He also mentioned he didn’t want me burnt out for the next days trek. I still wanted to move on. It was my personal Everest.

I stood up and felt different in my head. My ears felt full like I jumped out of an airplane. I felt a little dizzy. Prolhad was already 20 steps ahead. I called out to him and said, “let’s go back.” He asked if I were serious and I said I felt a little funny in the head. He said, “are you sure? I don’t want you to be disappointed.” I mentioned the top the entire time and prolhad knew it meant something to me. I said, “You’re right lets keep going.”

The older guy and I would keep passing each other. I would take sit down breaks and drink water while he would take standing breaks not drinking water. I would stand and start moving and pass him and he would pass me after I sat.

Soon ahead there was a group of maybe 10 people going at an incredibly slow rate. So slow you would take a step and count to three. Pralhad pointed upwards to pass them, it was a more vertical cut through. I took 10 quick large steps up the hill and felt my heart pounding out of my chest. Then I thought: now if I stop to rest they will slowly pass me again.

They stayed behind and I continued to ascend. I took many breaks. It took a lot of step and pause moments. The more I fully rested the harder it was to restart.

I kept my gloves on, the wind started to blow an icy chill. The rocky switch backs went to dirt pathways. It turned into a large rock scramble. It wasn’t long until I heard the prayer flags flapping to my right side. I still had that feeling of fullness in my head, but I made it!

I was surrounded by snow capped mountains. Prolhad pointed them out and named them all. It was liberating. After a few photos and videos, we descended down. The thought of me climbing to 5,100 meters gave me comfort I could complete the base camp trek. Base camp was at 5364 meters.

The hardest part was the way down. I didn’t think about the wear and tear on my knees it was going to be. I was trying to find a good form to make it not so forward pounding. I transitioned from forward to a lateral ski step. Prolhad was way far ahead, had no pain or difficulty and had his hands in his pockets.

After I finally made it, my knees were quivering. Small steps down regular stairs were hesitant and shaky. I met up with Brian and Luciano. Brian said just walking around the town made him winded. They found a cool bakery we planned to go to after lunch for coffee and cake.

I told them it was probably the hardest hike I’ve ever done. The elevation almost won. But the next day we would head to our next location: Lobuche 4910 meters.

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 27, 2018 (Saturday)

Day 5 Trek to Everest Base Camp

We all kind of naturally woke up at 530am, I woke up to Brian’s cough. He couldn’t breath out of his nose and his cough sounded like someone who smoked a pack of cigarettes a day. I asked him how he was feeling and he said, “terrible.” There wasn’t a three second period where he wasn’t coughing. He said he felt it in his chest and had a shooting headache. I knew he was getting worse, I was especially worried the previous night when his oxygen was as low as an old ladies with COPD. We all, including Brian, were considering having him go back. Brian said himself he felt so bad he didn’t think he could go on.

I gave Brian 800 mg of ibuprofen and encouraged him to take his cough medication and Day time cold. After about 20 minutes he already started feeling better. He went to breakfast and had a new intention of continuing on the trek. He said he felt a ton better after the medicine. If Brian had gone back he would have had a hard time, the previous day was a lot of downhill he would have had to have climbed. Today was a planned trek of a 500 meter gain over six hours. We will arrive in Dingboche surrounded by mountains. Not just hills. But snow capped mountains.

The climb was easy today. Tolerable. Slow and steady. People would be self trekking to the base camp with their full packs, hustling, and breathing fast and heavy. I’m not sure what the rush was, but we were timing everything perfectly.

We arrived to the tea house, Brian and I had one room and Luciano had his own. These rooms had two beds in them instead of three, but came with their own toilet. The first thing I did was tidy up. Fluffed my sleeping bag and attempted my first wet wipe bath. After I exhausted the wet wipes that were covered in dirt, I went outside and in the freezing cold attempted to pour water over my head. I was trying to condition my hair so I was able comb the knots out. Apparently we would be four days without a shower and I didn’t want one dred lock due to my hair being a terrible knot. I had a quick dry towel and poured some water over my head and shivered as I conditioned my ends. My hands were freezing. I left the conditioner in and attempted to comb through the dirt knots and hat hair. Afterwards I did one French braid that I don’t plan on taking out until the next shower.

I couldn’t nap. Brian passed right out. I met Luciano in he larger dining area in the good luck Tea house. We journaled and connected to Wifi. At around 5pm, we headed to the smaller tea house near our rooms for dinner.

We talked and hung out. Played with the Spo2 monitor. Mine read 90-92%, Brian’s was still low in the 70’s, low 80’s. Brian took a sleeping pill and headed to bed early. I called my mom and updated her on my travels and asked how everyone was doing. I have a bit of home sickness and miss being comfortable. I’m definitely experiencing more than I imagined.

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 26, 2018

Day 4 Everest Base Camp trek

After a well rested night, we did our usual. Packed all we had into our big bag and gave them to our porters who waited for them outside our door at 7am. They always got a super head start. We headed down for breakfast. I had another oatmeal and refilled my water bottle and bladder. It was the usual and I started getting used to the day by day process. Up at 6, breakfast at 7, trek at 8am.

Today, our trek was introduced as being 200 meters downhill and then after lunch 600 meters up. It was frustrating how much downhill there would be just to climb back up. The before lunch trek had some amazing views. One being the second most technical climb in the world: Amadblam. The first most technical climb in the world is in Pakistan. I feel like I was having a difficult time going down hill, the trekking poles really made a difference with my knees and not falling. I saw so many people have their trekking poles on their backpack but not use them. I was wondering if there was a more appropriate time for them. Either way I really relied on them.

The trail became quite dusty. We arrived for lunch at zombala lodge and restaurant. I ordered coffee and potato’s with veggies and eggs. Seemed like a smart power meal for the uphill climb ahead. The other guys ordered noodles and rice, but they didn’t have an appetite to finish their meals. Mine came out looking like a garbage plate and I cleared the plate. I wanted all the energy I could get for making this an easy going successful trip.

Back track;

Yesterday before leaving for today, we went to the pharmacy to pick up some medication for Brian’s cough and cold. It was funny because after that, when we watched the Everest movie, “Into Thin Air,” the main character said in the movie, “Once you get sick on the trek, you don’t get better.” I immediately made eye contact with Brian and we had a laugh about it. But secretly were thinking, Oh no…hope that’s not true.” That evening we realized I got the wrong medication for Brian’s cough. The woman handed me an expectorant for his dry cough which was only making it worse. I made that mistake and trusted the pharmacist who I now know was actually a nurse. Luciano said he would pick up some cough suppressant for him. Also, last evening was the last night we could get supplies for our trip. Whatever we wanted or needed it was then or never. I was looking for more warm clothing but couldn’t find what I was looking for. When my boots would get wet they would stay wet. Everything they seemed to have was a bit out of my price range or fake brands with cheaper material. Brian and I stumbled upon some quick try towels and I figured I’d get one for $10 because they are usually $40 back in the states. Then I bought a winter hat that said Nepal on it. It was numbingly cold outside. I even noticed Brian’s hands shaking when he was showing me something, so I knew he felt how I felt.

Brian used the nasal spray and the correct medication for his cough and our hopes are high he starts getting better. It’s hard to get better quick when you’re exerting yourself each day, in a cold climate, and are getting higher and higher elevation. It really sucks, I feel bad for the situation and just hope it improves.

Today, I felt oddly great. I wasn’t sore, my thoughts are positive, and I didn’t feel too winded. Some people would ask, how much farther? Are we there yet? I felt my thinking was far from that. I wasn’t looking for the end of the day, an escape from the uphills, or a quick finish. I signed up for this knowing it will take time, patience, and forward thinking without quick expectations. After seeing people around me, the insane strength of the porters, and astounding views of trekking in the Himalayas, the last thing I would wonder is “are we there yet?” I look forward to every challenge and obstacle on this journey because I know I’ll have the support of my small group with Pralhad, Luciano, and Brian. We all want eachother to do well and succeed on the trip.

After lunch, I can tell Brian was getting fatigued. His cold wasn’t doing him well. He paced well but his energy was low from being sick. The last hour of the upward 600 meters, Pralhad assisted him carrying his backpack. For some reason, Licionao was turning into a trekking machine. His pace sped up and he helped pace me as

I was maybe 6 steps behind. I watched his feet most of the uphill climb. I walked in sync with his and felt absolutely fantastic. We would all take turns playing lead. What would suck about the last person is that they get the least amount of rests. The first person would stop for a break, just long enough to wait for the last person to catch up, and would trek again. That happened more yesterday though.

Looking back to what we have climbed was mind blowing. I couldn’t believe how well I was doing and how good I felt. The potato meal must have been that burst of energy. If I climbed what I did today anywhere in the states I would be struggling. I would be pouring sweat, having blisters, not liking the trekking experience and flat out struggling. I would hike with my sister as she would lead the way and I would feel not in good shape and overall indifferent about the experience. I think I enjoyed the time outdoors and the fact I was exercising more than anything. I would consider myself a very novice hiker. Brian had said the same thing. Stating if he did the half the height and distance of trekking in Canada compared to what we did today he would be pouring sweat and dead in a trek half as brutal. Something is simply different here. For some reason trekking here has been more personal, at least for me. I don’t want to just get to the top in a day. I want to experience the nearly two week struggle, as sick as that sounds.

Why I chose EBC

To be honest, when I hear about a place and keep hearing about it I feel like I should experience it for myself if I like what I’m hearing. It’s as simple as that. I’m more of a beach goer myself but I also wanted to challenge myself. I know three nurses who have done the EBC trek, and after the third one I was like, let’s go- I’m doing this. I was so lucky to display my plans and itinerary in Facebook because that’s how I got Brian to go! This trip would have not been the same without him for sure. I met Brian traveling up the east coast of Australia. We saw eachother about four or five random times from Sydney to Cairns. Next time I saw him was when he flew and met me in Kathmandu! That’s a friend for ya!

Unfortunately, a lot of people have misunderstandings about places, people, and travel if it’s outside their comfort zone. People get scared to have an experience. Call me crazy or someone who has nothing to lose but I find a lot of peace of mind traveling and exploring common adventure spots.

The key word is common. For how common the Everest Base Camp is people still think I’m climbing Everest. Or they think I’ll get lost in a snow storm or get kidnapped and drugged in Kathmandu city. Some possible I guess and some extremely not likely. People’s perception is just that of what they see on TV. I myself had a poor idea of what I was getting myself into. Will I freeze to death? Am I prepared? Do I pack high ankle hiking boots? Will I suffer AMS? The Internet is an amazing thing, you can literally google those questions. I think you have a choice. You can google questions you have about something that interests you, prepare yourself, and search your worries away OR you can google your fears and find only factual information of why you should be scared and not do something you originally wanted to do. I do both BUT I go with the first option more and still show up.

We got to our next tea house and dropped our stuff off. Brian unfolded his sleeping bag and immediately started to nap at 3pm. Luciano and I used a public sink and soaped our face, arms and armpits. No showers until we return apparently. I went into the toilet room and wet wiped my body for the first time in my life. My hair is full of dirt and dust but the water is too cold to wash it. It’s so cold you can see your breath in our room and in the hotel in general. The tea houses had no heat or insulation. Pretty much wooden beds with plywood walls and cement flooring.

We all tried to nap, but it was too cold. Five o’clock rolled around and we had to go down for dinner. I ordered lasagna. It was pretty big for a meal at this elevation. While waiting we played cards. A game called kemps I introduced. Pralhad and I lost pretty good to Brian and Luciano.

I met this woman named Sangita. She was a Nepali that lived in Texas and has been there for around ten years or so. She came with her nephew. Apparently, Sangita was supposed to go on this trek with five other friends all of which have bailed last minute. She did not back out.

I overheard her talking to someone from LA about his French friend who was not doing so well. Apparently his 28 year old French friend was leading him on the trek. The French guy hiked today’s trek extremely fast and was now bed bound with a pounding headache. Not a very smart idea. He eventually came down and drank soup. Luciano was giving the French guy some tips to probably decend tomorrow if he does not Improve.

Luciano took out his pulse oximeter and the whole table was playing with it. We were all saturating pretty similar. I was about 89/90% and my Heart rate was 88. People were all the same except Brian. His cold seemed to have been making his body work a bit hard with his sats at 79-85% at best with a heart rate at 109 at rest. Brian just said “I’m dying,” simply and with a grin but didn’t look symptomatic. He headed to bed early. Hopefully it all gets better tomorrow. Tomorrow we walk up an “easy” 500 meters. I’m looking forward to the views!

Tomorrow Acclimazation day

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 25, 2018 (Thursday)

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek

I kind of woke up at 2am in a weird fog. I felt an on and off chest soreness to the left side that was pinpoint and moveable that could have been what woke me up. The more I thought about it and moved around the more it started to bother me. It felt like it was aggravated by position but it was scary. I was hoping it would go away or wouldn’t get symptomatic.

I fell back asleep, woke up and was the last one to get my bag packed. We went down for breakfast where I had a bowl of some tasty oatmeal.

Today I expected a typical easy going touristic hike. All I knew was we were going to see the highest hotel in the world. I felt like I was a bit wrong with thinking it was a short hike when Pralhad said to prepare 3 litres of water for or 3 hour hike.

We left our bags packed in the room. Apparently we were going to be returning to a different room across the hall in the same tea house. I’m not sure why but our

3 bedroom room came with a shower with hot water. Today is our last day experiencing a hot shower until we descend. I’m not even sure when that is.

We headed out and it was immediately uphill in Namache’s little town. We used our our trekking pulls even on the common stairways. When we arrived to the trek starting point it was still up hill, just more uphill. Actually, today’s entire three hours was a “climb.” I’m beginning to see the difference between a trek, hike, climb, walk, and cross country trail running. Prolhad always introduced our next day ahead during the previous evening during dinner. Now I know what he meant when he said, “first hour trek, then, we climb.”

We arrived at Tenzing Norge Sherpa statue who was the guide who set foot on Everest first. At this national park area, it was filled with Everest history. I took a photo with the Sherpa statue and signed the guest book in the museum. Prolhad pointed to our summit to the hotel that looked nearly impossible. We climbed. And climbed and climbed. It was okay once I got going, I initially felt that chest ache come back. As I got going it went away. Writing this now I actually haven’t had it since the start of the climb thank god.

We took turns playing pacer. It eventually came down to us being pretty spaced out. I asked prolhad about the man that was hiking alone at lunch yesterday. I said, “Prolhad, isn’t it concerning when you have a really overweight person sign up for this?” Prolhad shook his head no. “Anyone can do this, you just have to be positive.” It actually changed my thinking. I was so astounded by the trekkers I’ve come across. People would pass me with their hands in there pockets who look like they were on their last 10 years- while we I huff and puff with trekking poles. The point is. You can literally do anything, as long as you’re positive and you take steps in that forward direction. I’ve seen and met some inspiring people. Especially the sherpas. Today I saw someone carrying five full large propane tanks tied to his back. Before I signed up for this, I thought a Sherpa was a mule or a yak. I was wrong, they are strong ass Nepali men and woman.

The entire uphill climb was a total 300 meters. We made it to the Everest view hotel, tallest hotel in the world. The hotel was 3880 metersabove sea level. The climb up was accompanied by the Himalayas in layers. You know when you see mountains on mountains in the shade and shadow in the distance. That’s what I saw the entire trek. Part of the hike was walking on a narrow path with a mountain wall on one side and a cliff on another side. On the cliff was wild yaks grazing. I’m not sure how they got there though.

We took some photos and trekked back down for lunch. After lunch we were free until dinner time. We decided to go to a cafe that offered a movie with free charge. I ordered French toast and watched “Into thin Air.” The movie was a true story about an Everest climb. Most people died but now I definitely don’t want to exceed the limit of base camp. I want to respect the mountain not challenge it (Prolhad’s words).

It’s unfortunate I don’t have one of those cool cameras to capture photos. I’m also sad I didn’t bring a journal with me for when I’m out of charge. I’ll write what I can when when I can but it sounds like there is no power the day after tomorrow. Nine more days! Also if anyone wants to see the itinerary of the climbing and trekking each day it’s online. I’m with mosaic adventure so it’s easy to find on their website. Tomorrow we trek to 3,900 meters to Tyambocbe.

Oh yeah I shopped around to get my little snacks for the rest of the hike. This is the last chance to get stuff so I bought 3 snickers that will probably freeze (like me). As I was shopping it started to rain outside. I was bummed because I had clothes hanging outside that were drying off. Now they are extra soaked. Hopefully tomorrow is full of sunshine to hang it off my backpack on the trek!

Goodnight!

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seecourtneytravel · 6 years

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October 25, 2018 (Thursday)

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek

I fell back asleep, woke up and was the last one to get my bag packed. We went down for breakfast where I had a bowl of some tasty oatmeal.

We left our bags packed in the room. Apparently we were going to be returning to a different room across the hall in the same tea house. I’m not sure why but our

3 bedroom room came with a shower with hot water. Today is our last day experiencing a hot shower until we descend. I’m not even sure when that is.

Goodnight!

0 notes

seecourtneytravel · 6 years

Text

October 25, 2018 (Thursday)

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek

I fell back asleep, woke up and was the last one to get my bag packed. We went down for breakfast where I had a bowl of some tasty oatmeal.

We left our bags packed in the room. Apparently we were going to be returning to a different room across the hall in the same tea house. I’m not sure why but our

3 bedroom room came with a shower with hot water. Today is our last day experiencing a hot shower until we descend. I’m not even sure when that is.

Goodnight!

0 notes

seecourtneytravel · 6 years

Text

October 25, 2018 (Thursday)

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek

I fell back asleep, woke up and was the last one to get my bag packed. We went down for breakfast where I had a bowl of some tasty oatmeal.

We left our bags packed in the room. Apparently we were going to be returning to a different room across the hall in the same tea house. I’m not sure why but our

3 bedroom room came with a shower with hot water. Today is our last day experiencing a hot shower until we descend. I’m not even sure when that is.

Goodnight!

0 notes

seecourtneytravel · 6 years

Text

October 25, 2018 (Thursday)

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek

I fell back asleep, woke up and was the last one to get my bag packed. We went down for breakfast where I had a bowl of some tasty oatmeal.

We left our bags packed in the room. Apparently we were going to be returning to a different room across the hall in the same tea house. I’m not sure why but our

3 bedroom room came with a shower with hot water. Today is our last day experiencing a hot shower until we descend. I’m not even sure when that is.

Goodnight!

0 notes