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fromwinnipeg2everywhere · 3 years

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Pandemic Travel to the Rockies

I naively thought that by the summer of 2020, the pandemic would be over and by fall we’d be travelling again, but when our November flight to Spain and Turkey got cancelled by Air Canada mid-July, reality started to set in. We were given the opportunity to rebook later, but we decided that for 2020, we will travel locally. We have always wanted to travel to the Rockies, but we kept on putting it off, so with five weeks of vacation to use and nowhere to go, we decided that we will drive to Alberta from Winnipeg for two weeks in September of 2020.

The first two days of the trip was spent driving to Calgary. We refused to drive the full 14 hours straight so we spent a night in Regina, so what would have been a two-hour flight became a 36-hour road trip. The hotel in Regina was one of many hotels we stayed at for this trip. We compared our hotel stays to when the trio in Harry Potter had to move from campsite to campsite in book 7, and every time they would move campsites, they would set up protective spells around them. We basically did the same because every hotel we went to, we whipped out our big container of Lysol wipes and wiped everything down, from the door handles, to light switches to all the surfaces we would potentially touch. If I’m being honest, I would say I resented having to do all that, but it was necessary for our peace of mind. Some people would probably say, well, maybe, you shouldn’t have been travelling at all in the first place, but I felt like we did our due diligence and taken measures to protect ourselves (i.e. driving and not flying, travelling in the off season, wiping everything down, wearing masks, not eating in restaurants, staying away from people, etc.). As selfish as it may sound, it was important for us to travel, and at the time, the cases were still low, the variants were not a thing, and I would decide the same thing 100x over if I had to do all over again.

We spent the first couple of days in Calgary visiting with my brother before driving out to the Rockies. It was nice seeing my brother and his family. I know we only live 14 hours apart, but we rarely see each other. I think one of the silver linings of this pandemic was that I got to visit them and stay with them for a few days. Our first stop after Calgary was Lake Louise. We spent our first night in Lake Louise at the iconic Fairmont, with a room overlooking the lake. Did we overpay for the hotel? Probably. Was it worth it? I would say that for that price, I’ve had better experiences elsewhere. We were supposed to stay there two nights, our first and last day at Lake Louise, but after the first night, we decided to cancel the second night and just drive out to Jasper a day early. The hotel itself is what you would expect a Fairmont to be, but for $500 a night, I really expected a little bit more than just the view of the lake from my window. The room was standard, the pool was very disappointing and the breakfast at the restaurant was ordinary. We did get a free canoeing voucher, but there were forest fires at the time so we weren’t even allowed to canoe the full hour on the voucher. There were definitely benefits to staying at the Fairmont, for example, not having to fight for a parking spot, being close to the trail head for the Big Beehive, and just having access to Lake Louise first thing in the morning and at sunset. It really was too bad that it was hazy the entire time we were there, so no decent photos were to be had.

After our night at The Fairmont, we stayed a couple of nights at Mountaineers Lodge located at the Lake Louise town. It was reasonably priced and a perfect place to get to everywhere you might want to go in the area. There was not much to do in the town of Lake Louise. There were a couple of delis where you can order takeout, but after dark, everything shuts down and there’s nothing to do. We didn’t see a lot of wildlife around either, which I was very surprised by. Here is a list of things we did and places we went while staying at Lake Louise:

1. Hiking – we hiked the Fairview Lookout, Lake Agnes, Big Beehive and Johnston Canyon. For Johnston Canyon, we booked breakfast at the Blackswift Bistro and this allowed us to drive all the way to the trailhead. If you don’t have a reservation, you have to walk an extra 10km before you even get to the trailhead because the highway leading up to it is closed to traffic, so a $30 breakfast is worth the price, I think. We struggled with Lake Agnes and Big Beehive, but the views are rewarding, even with the smoke and haze. We were not in shape, but it is doable, if you take your time.

2. Moraine Lake – staying at Lake Louise allowed us to get to Moraine Lake in the early hours and not worry about the parking lot being full. Even in the off season and on a weekday, the parking lot fills up by 7:30AM. We were able to get here early in the morning to catch sunrise, and late in the evening to take milky way photos. It is really jarring to be here when it’s pitch dark, and I kept imagining running into bears, but for the entire trip, we actually only saw one bear, and that is on the road on the way to Moraine Lake at dawn. We didn’t get to do any hikes because the hikes required at least four people, but after Lake Agnes and Big Beehive, this suited me just fine.

3. Morant’s Curve – a short drive from Lake Louise town, Morant’s Curve is a scenic little lookout with the mountains in the background and the railroad track in the foreground. If you’re lucky (or you’re patient), you can catch a train passing by.

4. Yoho National Park – about an hour drive away from Lake Louise town, Yoho National Park is actually already in British Columbia. The highlights of Yoho National Park include the Natural Bridge, Emerald Lake, Meeting of the Waters viewpoint and Takkakaw Falls. Takkakaw Falls wasn’t particularly wide, but it was tall (taller than Niagara!). We climbed as high as we can without getting too wet or slipping on the wet rocks.

After three nights in Lake Louise, we drove to Jasper. The drive to Jasper was an adventure filled day. There were so many stops on the Icefields Parkway that it took us 8 hours to get to Jasper from Lake Louise. The town of Jasper was bigger than Lake Louise. There were actual restaurants and breweries where you can dine in. There are many hiking trails and it was hard to pick which ones to do when you only have three nights. We stayed at Maligne Lodge. It was the cheapest place that we can find at Jasper and I probably will not stay here again. The room had that typical motel chemical smell, and the only way I got rid of it was to have the windows open the entire time we were there. I did like that we had our own entrance and we can park the car right in front of the door, so we didn’t have to drag our luggage far. There were a lot more wildlife sightings in Jasper. We saw elk, goats, deer, but still no bears. Here are the Jasper highlights:

1. Icefields Parkway – from Lake Louise, our first stop was Herbert Lake. We got there just as the sun was rising and there was a mist on the lake. Next stop was Bow Lake. This place looked like a postcard with the lake and the mountains and glaciers surrounding it. Next was Mistaya Canyon, just a short hike of Highway 1 and worth the quick stop. We then went for a quick stop at the Toe of the Athabasca Glacier. It was also a short walk from the highway, but the temperature difference between the parking lot and closer to the glacier was noticeable. It was also sad to see the markers where that toe had been (much closer to the highway) and sad to think what that glacier will be like in the next few years as humans cause irreversible damage to Earth. Our next stop was Tangle Falls, another quick stop just off the highway and we climbed to the very top of the falls. The parking is on the opposite side of the falls so just be careful crossing the street. We then stopped at Rocky Mountain Lodge for a quick lunch (and a quick nap) before continuing onto Sunwapta Falls. Most people stayed to view just the Upper Falls, but we hiked the 1.8 KM to the Lower Falls. It was a nice, short hike in the woods, but the Lower Falls themselves were not as nice as the Upper Falls. Our last stop on the Icefields Parkway was Athabasca Falls. This is another short walk from the parking lot, and it would have been a nice place to take milky way photos had the skies been clear.

2. Hiking – we hiked Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake, Pyramid Island, Annette Lake and Valley of Five Lakes. Valley of Five Lakes was my favourite. It was a short 4.8KM loop and you’re rewarded with views of five turquoise lakes. We started out early and there was barely anyone in the parking lot, but by the time we left before lunchtime, the lot was full.

3. Jasper Sky tram – this experience was equal parts amazing and disappointing. It was amazing because the views at the top are breathtaking. We hiked up to Whistler’s Summit and our breaths were literally gone by the time we got up there, both from the views and the struggle to hike to the summit. The climb up was steep and challenging, but the climb down was equally as harrowing. It was disappointing because at the bottom, they promised social distancing while riding the tram, and on the way up, it wasn’t bad. It was still crowded, and people were definitely not 6-feet apart, but it was a 5-minute tram-ride so it is one of those calculated risks we took. On the way down was another story. They herded you into these waiting rooms where everyone is squeezed in like sardines, and the tram occupancy limits that they enforced on the way up is thrown out the window on the way down. If we had gotten sick from Covid from this trip, it would have been because of this experience. The fee is $52 per person and they encourage you to book in advance. We walked up and had to wait an hour before we could get on the tram.

We enjoyed our time in Jasper, but all good things always come to an end sooner than you’d hope. After spending three nights in Jasper, we left early in the morning and drove to Banff. The drive back on the Icefields Parkway was like night and day difference. The smoke was gone by this time, and in the three days that we spent in Jasper, the leaves along the Parkway started to turn colours! Icefields Parkway was lined with trees with varying shades of yellow and I could have driven here all day. Instead of driving straight down Highway 1, we took the Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) when we got to Lake Louise. The drive was slower but more scenic than Highway 1. We stayed at the Ptarmigan Inn in Banff. This was our favourite hotel out of the five that we stayed at. The room was big, it had a nice balcony, lots of storage place, and free breakfast to boot, and all this considering it was the cheapest out of all the hotels in the Rockies. With it being off season, and with Covid, the restaurants in Banff closed early. Like Jasper, you had to wear a mask in the town proper, even when outside. We only spent two nights in Banff and wish we could have stayed longer. We spent an evening watching the stars at Two Jack Lake. We did a short hike on Tunnel Mountain. We had a yummy lunch at Park Distillery. We went shopping, and just spent our last days in the Rockies relaxing.

After the Rockies, we drove back to Calgary and spent a few more nights with my brother before driving back to Winnipeg. It’s funny because it took a pandemic for me to see the Rockies. I’ve lived in Canada for three decades, and although I’ve been to Calgary a couple of times, we never really ventured any farther west than Banff. Later this month, we are heading to Vancouver and to Banff again, another Canadian trip, before international travel opens up again. Worse comes to worst, if we get locked down again later this year, then maybe it’s time to venture out west. I hear Quebec and the Maritimes are nice.

#travel #vacation #canadian rockies #canada #jasper #banff #lake louise #moraine lake #alberta #roadtrip

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fromwinnipeg2everywhere · 3 years

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Autumn in Japan

It’s been hard finding motivation during the endless lockdowns here in Manitoba, and one of the things that I have slacked on is keeping this page up to date. I was under the impression that nobody read this blog, but recently I found out that at least one person does and that is enough inspiration for me to keep going.

Our last international trip prior to the pandemic was in November 2019, to Manila and Japan, probably around the time when the pandemic was getting started in Asia. We visited with family and friends for a week in Manila, then flew to Japan and stayed there for a week and a half.

Our first stop was Osaka. First, I’d have to say that flights to Japan from Manila are unbelievably cheap, relative to what we must pay for flights here in Canada. We paid about $150 CAD per person for our Cebu Pacific flight and we were told that this is not actually a good deal. I’m not sure that I can even get to Saskatoon from Winnipeg at this price! We stayed at an Airbnb in Osaka, and the apartment was very spacious and conveniently located near Namba Station and Nipponbashi. We stayed in Osaka for 2 nights, but we enjoyed our short stay. We walked around Dotonbori for our first night and had ramen at Ichiran. The following day, we set off early for Nara to beat the crowds and get some alone time with the deer. Shortly before lunch time, the tour buses started arriving, and that is our cue to get back on the train to Osaka. We went to Kuromon Market for lunch and basically ate everything we could get our hands on – otoro (fatty tuna), matcha ice cream, Kobe beef, tako tamago (baby octopus), crab meat and tofu. The food was reasonably priced and fresh. We went back to the Dotonbori area for dinner. I’m not quite sure I get the appeal of this area. I like big cities and crowded places, but I couldn’t find myself connecting with this area. It was just a bit too flashy and busy for me.

The following day, we took the 11am train to Kyoto. It was a little confusing to find which ticket to buy but the attendants at the train station were very helpful. Once we got the tickets figured out, the next challenge was figuring out which platform and which train to take. The train ride to Kyoto was very crowded, so thankfully it wasn’t too long, just about an hour and a half. As soon as we landed in Kyoto, we had lunch at Ippudo and walked around the Nishiki Market while waiting for our check-in time for our Airbnb. Our Airbnb was not centrally located, everything is expensive in Kyoto and this was the most reasonable accommodation we could find. We did have a grocery store next to us, and one of my favourite things about Japan is that you can buy good, cheap meals at convenience stores and grocery stores. They have affordable bento boxes, with lots of variety. Walking around a grocery store or convenience store in Japan is an adventure. There are so many interesting and unfamiliar snacks, and even the ones that you are familiar with, you will find some unfamiliar flavours in Japan. I could survive on grocery store sushi and Calbee chips in Japan, and of course, their beer.

After a quick rest, we walked to the Ninenzaka area to visit the Yasaka Pagoda. The area is very charming, and I think this is what comes to my mind when I think of Japan. Everything looked very traditional, even the stores and cafes. We also had a chance to go to Kiyomezu-Dera at night to see the pagodas and the gardens lit up. We were very fortunate to come to Japan during the fall season while the leaves are changing colours. I’m sure this place would have been beautiful anytime of year, but it was breathtaking with the bright red and yellow leaves. The following day was an early day. We left the apartment at 4:30AM to catch the first train to Fushimi Inari. It was still very dark by the time we got there which was good for hubby because he was able to take some photos before the crowds came. There was really a very a small window of opportunity to enjoy something to yourself when you are in a touristy place. I was able to climb the summit by myself, which was a very peaceful and introspective experience, and because we got there so early, we still had plenty of time to go to other places for the rest of the day. We went to Eikan Do right after Fushimi Inari. Prior to coming to Japan, we were very worried that we were too early for fall colours, but fortunately, some of the leaves did turn colours the week we were there. I can’t even imagine what it would have looked like had we come a week or two later, but it was so pretty that even the crowds didn’t dampen my mood.

Our last day in Kyoto started early again. We took a cab at 5:30AM to go to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The cab fare came to about 3300 Yen ($40 CAD), but we did get a “free” flashlight to use. The cabbie was probably wondering why we’d go to the bamboo forest while it’s still pitch dark, but clearly, we weren’t the only ones with that idea because when we got there, there were already a few photographers set up. We got there at a perfect time as the sun was just starting to rise, and it bathed the bamboos in a very soft light. It felt very peaceful and surreal at the same time. The area around the bamboo forest is surrounded by mountains in fall colours. We walked along the riverside and just enjoyed the perfect weather and the view. At 9:00AM we hiked to the Monkey Park. It was a long and steep climb, but you’re rewarded with amazing views of Kyoto, and at the end of the climb, you get to hang out with local monkeys. They are in their natural habitat, but you can feed them. What is cool about this experience is that you get to feed them while you’re the one in a cage and they get to roam free outside. After the hike down, we went to Kinkakuji and then back to Ninenzaka to buy some souvenirs, and then back to the apartment to pack.

The following day, before leaving for Tokyo, hubby and I walked to Ninezaka again at 5:30AM to try and take pictures of the Yasaka Pagoda without the crowds. It was still dark when we got there but there were already about a dozen or so photographers setup. We stayed about an hour and then had to leave for Tokyo. We took the Shinkansen from Kyoto Station to Tokyo. The trains were very sleek and fast, and I got a bit of motion sickness from it, but nothing that a Gravol couldn’t fix. Enroute to Tokyo, if you sit on the left side of the train, you can catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji, albeit very briefly. We ended up lost and confused at Shinjuku Station trying to find the bus to our hotel, but a kind man not only gave us directions, but walked us to our bus station. It wasn’t a short walk so that was an extremely kind gesture that I hope I can someday repay to lost travelers here in Winnipeg. We rested for a bit then headed to Shibuya Crossing for the evening. I was feeling very overwhelmed on my first day in Tokyo. The trains were packed, the stations were packed, the streets were packed even as it neared midnight. I can’t even imagine what this experience would be like post-pandemic now that we have introduced the fear of crowds into our lives.

Our second day in Tokyo was a designated shopping day. We took the train to Akihabara and spent the day there. We went to Yodabashi, Uniqlo, and we were even able to do a side-trip to the Ueno Royal Museum to catch their Van Gogh Exhibit. Our last day in Tokyo was a very rainy day, so we spent it again indoors shopping. In the evening, we got to experience eating at a “sushi train” place. For 2300 YEN, we ate 14 plates of the freshest sushi we have ever had in our lives. It’s probably considered “fast food” sushi so I can’t imagine what fine dining would be like there. We will save that for next time! Tokyo was a little bit too busy for me. The maps are also deceiving in that I didn’t find it walkable at all. I enjoyed looking at the cute knick knacks at the stores, but I think for next time, I would stay longer in Kyoto. The one thing I do regret is cancelling the day trip to Mount Fuji to go shopping instead. I just couldn’t face the prospect of another early day catching trains and buses, and we weren’t quite sure if we would even see Mount Fuji because I heard that it is usually covered in cloud. However, that morning, when we were having breakfast at our hotel, we could see Mount Fuji, completely cloudless.

I really enjoyed travelling to Japan. Out of everything, I really enjoyed the food most of all. Although we stayed for a week and half, we only did get to enjoy the cities for a maximum of three nights, and I think next time, we would focus our stay in one city and really get to relish the experience, instead of rushing from one place to the next. With the scarcity and inequitable distribution of vaccine supply, it’s hard to imagine when we can travel to Asia again and I’m super grateful that we were able to go, right at the cusp of when everything was about to fall apart. I think, at that time, our attitude was don’t sweat about some of the things we are missing because we would always get the chance to go back anytime we want, but the last year and a half has shown us how very wrong we were.

#japan #tokyo #osakacity #ancient kyoto #foodie

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