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#yes i know you’re not supposed to take photos in the prado but then i remembered this was built by a colonial powerhouse then felt less bad
toffeelemon · 7 months
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I don’t feel like our love is brand new. There must have been lovers, soulmates, before us, experiencing what we get to have. And it’s giving me comfort to imagine there will be many more like us to come. Our kind of love is the kind of love that makes this rotten world worth living in.
prince simon in madrid
a pilgrimage along the world that @prince-simon created 🥹
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Simon’s neighbourhood, Chueca
“It’s actually the Queer Neighbourhood of Madrid, and coincidentally also where I live.” He lowered his voice as if to tell a secret, “It’s actually not a coincidence at all.” (chapter 2)
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Casa de Campo (view from the Royal Palace lol oop)
Wilhelm didn’t even recognise himself. He didn’t think he’d ever looked that happy. And Simon… his eyes were closed and his curls were a mess and Wilhelm had never seen anyone more beautiful. (chapter 3)
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El Retiro
Simon looked at Wilhelm much too adoringly for a statement this goofy. “The ducks are gay!” He yelled at Santiago and Paula, “Just so you know!” (chapter 9)
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Palacio de Cristal
“Here’s a funny thought - bear with me, okay? But just imagine. Flowers. Everywhere, like on the ceiling, up the walls. Fairy lights scattered all through it. It would be so gorgeous as a- uh, like. For a wedding…” Realising where his train of thought had gotten him, Wilhelm fell quiet, looking at Simon with wide eyes. (chapter 9)
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El Palacio Real de Madrid (more specifically the Throne Room lmfao)
Simon traced his fingers over the bruises on Wilhelm’s neck and in the opening of his dress shirt, humming contentedly. Wilhelm followed the movement in the mirror, and marvelled at how good they looked together, how well they fit together and how much Simon belonged right here – on the throne, with Wilhelm. He deserved the world and so much more. (chapter 12)
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Museo Nacional del Prado
Around them, the other visitors kept moving, admiring the art on the walls, and for the moment Wilhelm felt infinite, imagining himself a painting, looked at and analysed hundreds of years from now. El Abrazo de los Príncipes.
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Lo Spasimo, Raphael, 1515-1517
“Are we allowed to kiss in front of Jesus on his way to crucifixion or is that tasteless? Because I really want to kiss you right now, Simon.”
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Las Meninas, Diego Velázquez, 1656
“He made me look at Velázquez in the painting and how he was looking back at the viewer, at me. I still remember the exact tone of his voice, how he was so certain when he told me that I had every right to be where I am. That I am the subject of this painting, the king being painted. All those tyrants, King Felipe and Emmanuel and all those that came in between, they are trapped in that mirror forever while I am here, alive, we’re here. Velázquez is looking at two queer princes, ready to paint us.” (chapter 13)
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Casa Alberto
“So, tell me more about this special part of Madrileñan history.” He was slightly teasing but mostly actually curious. 
Simon seemed all too eager to answer that question, and it hit Wilhelm how genuine Simon’s care for his city — his country — and its people was. It made him a little sad to know that a lot of people didn’t get to see that because they only focused on Simon being too gay or too Latino, or even just too carefree and enjoying life because he was young, to be their future king.
bonus content:
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Iglesia de San Antonio de los Alemanes (where Simon goes to church)
“I think I need to go somewhere.”
“Oh?” Wilhelm said softly, “Right now?”
Simon hesitated before he nodded. “I need to- get some clarity? Or - I hope that I’ll get it there?” He whispered, voice shaky.
“Do you want to tell me where you’re going?”
“To- uh, to pray? I mean- to church? I don’t know if I’ll pray…” Simon’s voice was shaky, uncertainty shining in his eyes when he dared to look up at Wilhelm. (chapter 11)
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Finding Lisbon Restaurants
Where Locals Eat
Breathless, sweaty and most definitely ready for food, I pushed open the glass door and stumbled inside.
“Are you still serving?” I asked, the words more direct than I’d have liked.
A man walked towards me, in black against the bright white walls, clear-varnished wood and chic-hipster vibe I’d pretended to ignore in case we didn’t fit in.
“But of course,” he replied, before catching sight of the pushchair and paraphernalia behind me.
“Oh…” he took a breath and paused. “Perhaps you’d prefer to sit by the box of toys. She can use our trike if you’d like. It used to belong to my daughter.
“And perhaps you would like some green wine? Some tosta de queijo mel e nozes? It is bread with cheese, honey and nuts.”
Finding Lisbon Restaurants Where Locals Eat
  This wasn’t how it was meant to be, of course.
Relishing a few days in the foodie city of Lisbon, I’d scribbled suggestions, pinned pictures on Pinterest, flitted hearts across instagram and whatever else we’re supposed to do in this social media age before taking our taste buds anywhere.
I had the additional perk of knowing not one, not two but three food writers familiar with the city and, quite literally, ran into a woman who wrote the book on travel and eating out in Portugal only a few weeks before.
So where did I go wrong?
Opening times, that’s where.
The many flavours of Lisbon
Planning or drifting through the flavours of Lisbon?
Or perhaps the blame lay in abandoning my more natural happy-go-lucky spontaneous traveller vibe (we’ll call that the optimistic description) in favour of something more organised.
Still. I had a hungry toddler on my hands and a list of recommendations that ended in closed doors.
Until now, at Banca de Pau, a tapas-oriented restaurant specialising in food from Tras os Montes in the north near the Douro valley.
Trams in Lisbon – a favourite photo thing to do in Portugal
There comes a level of exhaustion and hunger that can make anything taste good. And thankfully, I wasn’t yet there.
But good the food did taste, all brimming with top ingredients, minimally messed with.
We ordered bread, olives. Tomato salad with vinaigrette and toast with pistachio.
And it turns out there really is such a thing as green wine (vinho verde from the Minho province in the Portugal’s far north.)
Faith and full belly restored, I was ready to try again.
The Cool Cat Restaurant in Lisbon: The Time Out Market
The foodie spot on everyone’s tastebuds right now is the intriguingly named Time Out Market down, also called the Mercado da Ribeira, picked up by Lonely Planet as one of the reasons Portugal is on its 2018 Best in Travel List.
It has an ear for a zingy slogan: if it’s good it goes in the magazine (yes it’s that Time Out) if it’s great, it goes in the market.
The idea is cool, showcasing the city’s different flavours, and the execution is clearly cooler. Stalls use matching fonts on monochrome fabric and diners throng together on shared tables in the centre of the hall.
Ironically, this made it trickier for travel with baby, but a playground outside eased the congestion of that.
Home of the Pasteis de Nata: Belem
Another staple on the foodie scene is the home of the first pastel de nata, the Pasteis de Belem.
Uninspiringly described as egg custard tarts, these Portuguese sweet treats don’t look much better either.
But don’t let appearances fool.
Even for non-pastry lovers like myself (I’m more of a “meh” girl when it comes to croissants,) they won me over.
The pastry is light yet tough, the filling delicately flavoured.
You’ll find them everywhere, more or less, and having tasted some so incredible at an underground chain kiosk, I don’t really think you can go wrong.
But Pasteis de Belem is the famous one and rumoured to be the best, so if you have an appetite for queues and a hunger for pasteis then fire up your Google Maps and go.
Pasteis de Nata in Lisbon
 Tangy Sweet Cheese and Ham: Ovelha Curado and Presunto
The other staples of Lisbon dining are ovelha curado and presunto. Commonly brought out with while you choose your main dish, they taste amazing but come with an irritating trait: they’re presented as though they’re a gift from the chef but actually there’s a hefty fee.
On the rebound from pregnancy-related soft cheese bans, I relished every chance I could get.
The best came at the seafood restaurant café at the five star Tivoli Avenida Liberdade. The ham melted softly, the cheese bore the salty-smooth twang that most certainly is not to everyone’s taste but that had run off and eloped with mine.
Lisbon Restaurants with a View
For a city clustered over centuries around seven steep hills, Lisbon’s a place that excels in vistas and rooftop bars. And though the Tivoli’s Cervejaria Liberdade lives at street level, its Sky Bar and executive breakfast lounge offer views across the city that make you forget about the food.
The Sky Bar is open to all, serving cocktails like the Snowberry with port, lime juice, egg white and cinnamon. The sea glittered to order on the horizon and the leaves of Lisbon’s “Champs Elysees,” Avenida Liberdade, fluttered with self-conscious glamour below.
The Sky Bar at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade
It’s a bright white, cool cat kind of a place, but for “rooftop views” with a casual feel, head deep into Alfama or take a tram or steep stride uphill to Jardín de São Pedro de Alcântara.
The former is the oldest part of the city, where streets are even narrower, even steeper, even more cobblier than the rest.
Vegetarian Graca 77 captures this through its watercolours but wears the 21st century in its reinterpretation of Portugal’s trademark azulejo tiles.
São Pedro de Alcântara, however, rustles up standard tourist fare with a happy tourist vibe. The scaffolding was up when I met my companions for the Highlights of Portugal G Adventures tour, but with the sunset, the music and the stands that looked like mulled wine, it scarcely mattered.
And then there was the tomato salad at the Banca de Pau.
With its fresh, great flavours and the man who lent his daughter’s trike.
It was like finding friends in the city. An experience so good we went there twice, once bringing our Lisbon-local friend with us.
And the whole thing reminded me of a long-held truth: no matter how hard you plan,  sometimes it pays to make travel mistakes.
Cafe Versailles in Lisbon
More Notes on Lisbon restaurants Where Locals Eat
Breakfast
Café Versailles – yes, it has a French vibe and we’re talking about eating in Lisbon but it’s an atmospheric haunt and beloved by loyal locals. Pastries galore, character in fin de siecle abandon.
A Padaria Portuguesa – Am I recommending a chain on a travel blog specialising in unusual and thoughtful luxury? Yes, indeed I am. A chain it may be but it’s certainly a Portuguese chain that provides plenty of Lisbon restaurants where locals eat. A good stop for breakfast or a mid morning snack.
Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel – for the view. The breakfast buffet is top notch but it’s the view that steals the show.
The Ones I Couldn’t Check: Lisbon Restaurants Where Locals Eat
Cervejaria Ramiro – near Independiente. The queues were like Oxford Street on Boxing Day and although solo by then, I had to move on. Recommended by Eat Like A Girl and Celia Pedroso.
Prado – lots of fresh vegetables, often a novelty when eating out in Portugal! Recommended by Food and the Fab.
Disclosure
I spent a few days in Lisbon with my family and then travelled north through Portugal on the Highlights of Portugal tour as part of my work with Lonely Planet and G Adventures. As ever, as always, I kept the right to write what I like. Otherwise, there’s just no point. For all the pastries in the world.
Some of the other recommendations were hosted, some were not, but all were only included because I like them and would gladly do them again. 
How does food work when you travel with G Adventures? On this trip, most meals were not included so that you could test out whatever took your fancy (the group size means that some of the smaller sized places aren’t suitable if you’re all eating together.) Occasional dinners were included and plenty of suggestions were made.
How Not to Eat in Lisbon Finding Lisbon Restaurants Where Locals Eat Breathless, sweaty and most definitely ready for food, I pushed open the glass door and stumbled inside.
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