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Trip to Central Europe (3rd – 16th Sep, 2019)

A Cultural Melting Pot at the Heart of Europe

As is implied by the name, Central Europe is a region located at the centre of the continent, roughly in the middle area between Eastern Europe and Western Europe. However, one may not know that there has never been a crystal clear demarcation for the boundary of Central Europe. This central piece of land is not only a geographical expression, but also a cultural and historical concept. The European continent can never be split into a few distinct zones simply based on location. Ideological and political factors should also be taken into consideration when defining which countries should be included in Central Europe. In the past hundreds of years, most nations in this ambiguous terrain were part of the Holy Roman Empire and ruled by the autocratic Habsburg Dynasty. After the Second World War, Central Europe was under the sphere of influence of the dictatorial Soviet Russia. People who lived in this European crossroad had been suffering from prolonged political turmoil and economic hardship. With the end of the Cold War, Central Europe has turned a new page of history and become a wonderland where full of long-lasting cultural heritage and unspoiled natural beauty.

Located right in the central district of the European continent, Austria, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Slovenia may be now only regarded as five second- class nation states in terms of their national strength. But some may not know that all those countries were once part of a gorgeous empire and contributed much for the formation of modern Europe. These days, Central Europe is no longer a miserable zone full of historical trauma, but a perfect place to learn about a story of transformation from oppression to liberation. In September 2019, I took a brief trip to the above five neighboring sovereign states, exploring their state capitals and some other exquisite towns.

Austria was once a major leading power in Europe during the medieval times. From late 13th century to early 20th century, Austria was ruled by the House of Habsburg, one of the oldest and the most influential royal families in European history. Habsburg dynasty built up an extensive multi-ethnic empire in central Europe, embracing much of modern-day Austria, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia and parts of Poland and bits of Italy. The Holy Roman Empire was also dominated by the House of Habsburg for four centuries. Before the collapse of the Habsburg Empire after the First World War in 1918, Austria was one of the key players in European politics. Twenty years after the end of the empire, Austria was annexed by Nazi Germany. Since then, Austria was confirmed to be no longer a mighty political entity, but merely one of the second-rate European countries. Ten years after the Second World War, Austria regained full independence and declared its "permanent neutrality". These days, Austria was the fourth-most peaceful country in the world according to the Global Peace Index 2020. Just a quarter-century ago, Austria joined the European Union (EU). Adopting euro as its official currency in 1999, Austria was again proved to be a keen member in European integration movement.

As the eastern neighbor of Austria, it is no wonder that Hungary had a profound relationship with Habsburg dynasty. A half millennium ago, Hungarian territory was partitioned into three parts and the southern part was under Ottoman rule. Until three hundred years ago, Habsburg Austria defeated the Turks and the entire Hungary became a part of Austria. Around a century and a half later, because of the military failure in the Austro-Prussian War in 1866, Austria had no choice but to agree to form a dual monarchy with Hungary. The Austrian-Hungarian Empire was short-lived and only lasted for five decades. Although Hungarians were liberated from the Austrian empire, they were not yet to be freed from foreign influence and domination. After World War Two, Hungary was controlled by the Soviet Union. Under the communist Russian rule, Hungary suffered from prolonged economic hardship and the Hungarian’s standard of living dropped dramatically. Following the end of the Cold War in 1989, Hungary gained its full independence and turned to be a democratic sovereign nation. Today, Hungary is a European Union (EU) member state and tries its best to improve the national economy in order to join the eurozone in the future.

Known in full as the Czech Republic, Czechia is a landlocked central European country situated north of Austria. Its history goes back to more than a thousand years in Europe. During the Middle Ages, today’s over half of territory of Czech Republic was once called Bohemia. Around five hundred years earlier, Kingdom of Bohemia became a part of the Habsburg Empire. It was not until the end of the First World War in 1918 that the very first Czech nation state gained its independence from Austria. The Czechs joined the Slovakians to form a new state of Czechoslovakia. However, the days of peace did not last long. During the Second World War, Nazi Germany annexed the Czech lands. Although Adolf Hitler was eventually defeated by the Allied forces and Czechoslovakia was liberated by the Soviet Russia in 1945, the nightmare of foreign occupation had not yet ended. Just three years after World War Two, Communist Russia turned Czechoslovakia from a democratic country to a one-party dictatorship regime which under Russian totalitarian rule. Not until the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 did the Czech people finally gain back their freedom and independence. Though the Czech Republic has joined the European Union for more than a decade, three fourth of the Czechs still refused to recognize the euro as their national currency.

As a nation lying on the Czech eastern border, Slovakia shared a similar history with its neighboring country. Since over a thousand years ago, the Slovakians had long been ruled by foreign races. In the 10th century, the territory of Slovakians was annexed by the Kingdom of Hungary. Around five hundred years later, the Slovakian lands became part of the Austrian Habsburg Empire. After the First World War, the Slovakians and their neighbors the Czechs were bonded together to constitute a new country of Czechoslovakia. In the following decades, this newly created state suffered much from foreign occupation. Czechoslovakia was first invaded by Nazi Germany during the Second World War, and then it was under Soviet Russia’s totalitarian rule in the period of Cold War. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia was divided into two independent nation states in 1993. This event is sometimes known as the Velvet Divorce, a peaceful breaking up of Czechoslovakia. At present, both Slovakia and the Czech Republic are the members of the European Union. Slovakia even accepted euro as its state currency.

Slovenia is a small country located in the south of Central Europe with a limited coastline at the Adriatic Sea. The Slovenes had never had their own independent nation state until the end of the 20th century. As the southern neighbor of Austria, Slovenia was under Hapsburg rule for over half of a millennium. After the First World War, Slovenia became a part of Yugoslavia. With growing discontent of autocratic rule, Slovenes continued fighting for more autonomy within the federation after World War Two. By the end of Cold War, the Slovenes finally successful to establish their own nation state in 1991, after the Ten-Day War. Since then, Slovenia has tried its best to integrate itself into western Europe both politically and economically. Slovenia joined both NATO and the European Union in 2004, and entered the eurozone in 2007.

Day One - Budapest: Szepmuveszeti Muzeum (Medosz Hotel, 3-star hotel)

It is quite a paradox that many Hong Kong travel lovers always claim that Budapest is one of their next desirable destinations, but seldom of them know where Budapest actually is. Recognized as the Hungarian capital around a century and a half ago, Budapest was originally the combination of two cities on opposite sides of the River Danube. On the western bank, Buda offers visitors a tranquilized natural surrounding with a series of leisurely sightseeing spots, like Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church; on the eastern bank, Pest provides sightseers a vibrant city landscape with a sequence of magnificent historical architectures, such as the Parliament Building and the Opera House. Either side of the river shows the striking beauty of the city, which is the reason why Budapest is sometimes regarded as the Paris of the East.

Hősök tere (Heroes’ Square) was my very first destination after I landed in Budapest. For the commemoration of the millennium anniversary of the Magyar conquest of Hungary, an extensive public area was built a hundred and a quarter years ago. Since then it has become one of the most symbolic squares in the city. TErected right at the centre of the square, the 36-metre tall Millennial Column with a statue of Archangel Gabriel on the top draws everyonebody’s attention. At the column base is a group of seven equestrian statues representing seven Magyar chieftains who were considered as the founders of the Hungarian nation. Two semi-circular peristyles encompass the central column with an array of statues of Hungarian kings and other significant historical figures. It is the very place where a tourist can experience over thousand years of Hungarian history.

Flanked by the Heroes’ Square on the left, Szepmuveszeti Muzeum (Museum of Fine Arts) is one of the top tourist sights in the Hungarian capital. The hundred-year-old art museum is housed in a neoclassical building with a collection of over 100,000 pieces of international masterworks, including works by Leonardo da Vinci, Rembrandt and Goya. Not everyone is an art lover or even familiar with European artworks, but some may have an interest in ancient Egyptian history. This fine art museum holds the second largest collection of ancient Egyptian art in central Europe. Mummy sarcophagi, canopic jars and papyrus scrolls are some of the most fascinating ancient Egyptian artefacts which can be found in this museum.

Originating from the Black Forest of Germany and ending into the Black Sea, the River Danube runs across the largest number of countries in the world. Passing through ten countries and four capitals, this 2,850-kilometre long river is the second-longest river in Europe after the River Volga of Russia. Budapest is divided into two halves geographically by a natural long river, but it is connected together symbolically by a marvel human architecture. Constructed in the mid-19th century, Chain Bridge was the first permanent stone-bridge linking up Buda and Pest. Although the bridge was once almost totally destroyed by the Nazi’s during the Siege of Budapest in 1945, it was renovated in its original form after World War Two. With a length of 380 meters and a width of nearly 15 metres, this colossal suspension bridge which spans on both sides of the River Danube serves as the city landmark offering the most astonishing night view of Budapest.

Taking a night stroll along the River Danube may seem to be the most enjoyable way to appreciate the city’s nightlife. Situated on the eastern bank, the Hungarian Parliament Building is unanimously recognized as the most notable national symbol of Hungary and one of the most photogenic spots on the River Danube. It is currently the largest parliament building in the world, and the biggest building in Hungary. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the banks of the Danube are an unmissable tourist site when visiting Budapest. It may be also the reason why Budapest is sometimes called the Pearl of the Danube.

Day Two - Budapest: Budavari Palota (Medosz Hotel, 3-star hotel)

As a greedy traveler with a very tight schedule, one may want to visit as many tourist sights as possible within a short period of time. When it comes to how to efficiently travel around a new destination, different so-called travel experts may have their own proposals. As far as I am concerned, visiting some eminent historical sites are often the best way to experience a city.

Just like other European countries, the Hungarian government has paid much effort on conservation of its cultural heritage. Well-maintained churches, well-preserved castles and well-kept museums are a few examples of good preservation works done by the local government. All those mentioned religious buildings, fortified structures and cultural institutions are scattered alongside the River Danube and can be easily accessed with public transport. With a well-planned travel itinerary, one can visit multiple tourist sites within one day without any complexities.

Spending a delightful morning in the Buda Castle Quarter seems to be a good start for a day trip. Known as Halaszbastya in the Hungarian language, the Fisherman's Bastion is one of the main tourist attractions on castle hill. The name of the bastion was originated from the guild of the fishermen who protected the area during the Middle Ages. Taking seven years to complete, this fairytale-like bastion was built in Neo-Romanesque style. Its seven high-pitched white turrets symbolize the seven Magyar chieftains who founded the present day Hungary in the late 9th century. Standing on its lookout terrace, one may enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of the city.

Nestled in the heart of the Castle district in Buda side, Mátyás-templom (Matthias Church) is just stone throw away from the Fisherman’s Bastion. Originally built in the early 11th century and renovated many times subsequently, this Roman Catholic church witnessed many turbulent historical events of the country. It was once occupied by the Turks in the mid-16th century and severely damaged during the Second World War. The Church was named in honour of King Matthias Corvinus of the 15th century, one of the greatest kings in Hungary, who expanded the religious structure by adding the southern high tower. This religious edifice is also known as the Coronation Church of Buda, since several coronation ceremonies and two royal weddings were held in this church. The roof of the church is decorated with multicolored ceramic tiles and the church inside is furnished with carved stone figures, Romanesque ornamental paintings and frescoes. The most eye-catching decoration of all must be the giant colorful stained glass windows hanging high on the wall. It is one of the most majestic churches found in the city and worth some time to look around.

After admiring the palatial church early in the morning, it is possible to visit some more prominent historical monuments located nearby before noon. Inscribed as a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Budavari Palota (Buda Castle) is the jewel on the hill without doubt. First built in the mid-13th century, the castle has long been a silent observer to witness many ups and downs of the Hungarian history. Suffering from continuous foreign invasion and war destruction, this fortified structure was rebuilt and remodeled several times over the years. The original complex was once served as the royal residence, but today the palace is home to the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum.

Housed in the Buda Castle, the Magyar Nemzeti Galeria (Hungarian National Gallery) takes up four wings of the palace with a wide range of collections featuring thousands of Hungarian artworks in all genres from the Medieval period to the present day. It is by far the largest public collection presenting the evolution of Hungarian fine arts. Budapest Torteneti Muzeum (Budapest History Museum, or called the Castle Museum) is another museum housed in the castle. Its collection showcases the history of the city from prehistoric times to modern days. The exhibits on display reflect the daily life of an ordinary Hungarian family. It is the ideal place for visitors to get glimpse of the Hungarian traditional culture in the past. Unfortunately, the Castle Museum had been closed for renovation by the time I got there.

Another popular tourist spot in the Castle District is Sándor Palace. It is the current official residence and workspace of the President of Hungary. By the time I there, I was lucky enough to catch the sight of the Changing of the Guards ceremony performed in front of this white-coloured palace.

After lunch, I spent my leisure afternoon continuing to explore the city on the opposite side of the river. Housed in an imposing neoclassical building of the 19th century, Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum (Hungarian National Museum) holds various historical items pertaining to the Hungarian history and culture. The highlight of the museum is probably the ceremonial robe once worn by Hungarian kings at their coronations. Visitors can travel back in time to explore the country’s history through tons of priceless exhibits from different historical periods.

Late in the afternoon, I wrapped up my trip by visiting the third largest church in Budapest. Situated in the heart of the Pest side, Szent Istvan-Bazilika (St. Stephen's Basilica) is a Roman Catholic basilica dedicated to the first king of Hungary, King St. Stephen. Suffering from a series of misfortunate events, the completion date of the church was delayed for multiple times. It took over half a century to build and eventually completed in 1905. This neoclassical cathedral is now regarded as the most sacred Catholic church in all of Hungary.

Following a detailed planned travel schedule, I successfully take a brief visit to some insightful tourist spots found in Budapest within a day and a half. Leaving the Hungarian capital, I hurried to the central station and took an express train heading to the next capital city, Bratislava.

Day Three - Bratislava: Hrad Devin (Hyde Park Hostel)

After Slovakia gained independence from Czechoslovakia in 1993, Bratislava became the capital of the newly formed republic. Praised as the Beauty on the Danube, this picturesque city is quite a young European capital with thousand years of prestigious history. Sharing borders with Austria and Hungary, Bratislava is only state capital that adjoins two sovereign nations. Situated at the crossroads of ancient trading routes in Central Europe, Bratislava was an important business hub in the middle ages. With its unique strategic position in the heart of Europe, it has once been the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary for over two centuries and a half. The city itself is small enough to manage a one-day backpacking and big enough for holding plenty of valuable cultural sights. Making good use of public transportation, visitors can travel to most of the tourist hotspots without any difficulties.

As far as I am concerned, visiting some historic sights is one of the most enjoyable ways to familiarize myself with a city. Just a 30-minutes' bus ride away from Bratislava’s old town, Hrad Devin (Devin Castle) is setting on a massive rock hill with a panoramic view overlooking the River Danube. The main structure of the site is now more like a well-preserved archaeological ruin rather than a military stronghold. Boasting over a thousand years of history since it was first built, Devin Castle is known as one of the oldest castles in Slovakia. Over the years, this castle was successively occupied by different European kings and was once severely devastated by an attack from Napoleon I of France. The remnant of the castle is now served as a national cultural monument. Visitors can learn more about the architectural development of the citadel by visiting the showroom hosted in a cave in the castle rock. Coming to Devin Castle and spending an hour or two to explore the city’s past was worth the while.

After heading back to the city centre, I went to somewhere at high altitude. Perched atop on a forested hill with a height of 85 metres above the water level of the River Danube, a snowy white rectangular fortification has been overlooking the old town of Bratislava for millenniums. Bratislavsky Hrad (Bratislava Castle) was first built in the 9th century and several renovations were implemented afterwards. The final large scale refurbishment was commissioned by Queen Maria Theresia in the mid-18th century. Unfortunately, the castle was burnt to ash by an accidental fire in 1811. Not until the end of the Second World War was the castle reconstructed to its original status. Today, Bratislava Castle has become a cultural monument and is home to the Museum of History. The museum has a wide range of collections that are related to the development of Slovakian society from medieval times until present day. It may be the best place for one who interested in studying the history of the country.

Exploring a cultural site may give one a better understanding of the political history of a country, whilst visiting a natural history museum can enrich one's knowledge about the mother nature of our planet. Since Hong Kong has no museum which is focused on the history of the earth, I always treasure the opportunity to visit some natural history museums when I travel to a new country. Prírodovedné Múzeum (Natural History Museum) is only a medium-sized museum but contains more than 2.5 million objects related to diversity of Slovak animate and inanimate nature. This ranks the museum as one of the most significant museums of its kind in Europe. A considerable amount of amazing animal and insect specimens are showcased in display glass boxes. Some prehistoric beasts are recreated as full scale stuffed models, the most spectacular of which must be the life-sized mammoth. Quite a few fossils are also on display in the museum, including giant shark teeth, saber-toothed tiger skulls, ammonites and so on. Among all the exhibits, the replica of a dilophosaurus is particular attractive and has drawn the most tourist attention.

Situated at the western border of the city centre below Bratislava Castle, Dom sv. Martina (St. Martin's Cathedral) is the largest and finest Gothic cathedral in the old town. Its 85-metre high spire dominates the city skyline and makes it stand out from its surroundings. Since it was consecrated in the 15th century, this cathedral had been deeply associated with the Austro-Hungarian Royalty. St. Martin’s Cathedral was served as the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary during the period of 1563 to 1830. Quite a few Hungarian kings and queens were crowned in this cathedral, including Queen Maria Theresa of Habsburg. Maria Theresa was the only female ruler of the Habsburg dominions and one of the greatest monarchs in European history. Furthermore, a number of influential historic figures found their final resting place in the crypt beneath the cathedral. St. Martin’s Cathedral is undoubtedly one of the highlights in Bratislava.

Day Four - Vienna: Schonbrunn Palace (Sommerhotel Wieden, 3-star hotel)

Located only a little more than an hour train time from Bratislava, I reached my third destination, Vienna. Once the capital of Holy Roman Empire, Vienna is a historical city full of mesmerizing stories to tell. Walking along the medieval narrow alleyways, stepping on the antique cobblestone streets, and passing through the old town squares, you can just immerse yourself into a European dreamland embraced by a romantic atmosphere. Crowned as the City of Music, Vienna is a place on which some world-renowned classical composers left their footprints, such as Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and many others. As the state capital of Austria, Vienna is famous for its high quality of living conditions. It was ranked the Economist Intelligence Unit's (EIU) most livable city in 2019. Designated as a UNESCO World heritage site, the historic centre of Vienna is dotted with fabulous castles, fantastic palaces and fascinating gardens. This is a place that you should not miss on your visit to Austria.

On the first day morning of my three-day excursion to Austria, I got up early and set off to a main summer residence of the Habsburg monarchs, Schloss Schönbrunn (Schonbrunn Palace). The grandiose of this Rococo-style palace is comparable to that of the Palace of Versailles of France. The palace is legendary not only because its opulent furnishing, but also because its historical importance. Some historical figures left their traces in this imperial home. Mozart had his first concert in the mirrored hall of the palace when he was only six years old. Napoleon Bonaparte was once lived and worked here. Chaired by the Austrian Foreign Minister Klemens Wenzel Prince Metternich, the Congress of Vienna was convened here to discuss establishing lasting peace in Europe after the Napoleonic Wars.

When comes to the term of “palace”, most of us might think it is a lavish building which is served as a royal residence or the home of a head of state. But it is only partly correct to equate the single residential building of the royalty with the whole palace site. In many parts of Europe, the area of a palace is far more bigger than just a single-standing building. Some visitors may just pay much their attention on the ornate state rooms and opulent royal apartments inside the palace building, but take no notice of the true beauty outside the building. Just like many other palaces in the rest of Europe, Schloss Schönbrunn is a massive architectural complex with not only an imperial residence but also a verdant garden, a huge palm house and even an old zoo.

Palmenhaus Schönbrunn (Palm House) is the largest palm house on the European continent. It consists of three pavilions which represent different climate zones from around the world. Dozens of Mediterranean, tropical and subtropical plants can be found in this gigantic botanical house. Some may be impressed by the world largest water lily, whose leaves can span 1.2 metres.

Standing opposite the Palm House, Wüstenhaus Schönbrunn (Desert Experience House) is a hothouse which is designed to mimic the desert landscape. For over a century, this greenhouse has been home to copious arid flora and fauna around the world. Besides some of the most recognizable species of succulents and cacti, some rare desert species can also be seen such as radiated tortoises and Gila monsters, and the most prominent of which must be the naked mole rat. It is a kind of mammal which lives in some underground tunnel-like burrows. Since this type of burrowing rodents lives under the ground surface, a sophisticated glass tube labyrinth was built to imitate its natural habitat. Visitors are able to observe this bizarre-looking rats from various angles through the glass casings.

Together with the Privy Garden and Orangery Garden, Schonbrunn Palace was catalogued on the World Heritage List of the UNESCO in 1996. It is overall a wonderful palace which you can spend delightful time with your family.

Although I am no expert of art by any standard, the next art exhibition hall is too famous to be ignored. Secession is a huge white architecture with a golden leafwork dome, which was built over a hundred years ago. The term “Secession” originally refers to several groups of forward-thinking artists who abandon the conservative artistic values and seek a new way of art. In the late 19th century, Gustav Klimt was one of the most renowned Austrian symbolist painters who devoted himself to the Vienna Secession movement. His masterpiece “Beethoven Frieze” is the main feature of the exhibition. The 34-meter long wall painting was a tribute to Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony and recognized as one of the best artworks in Secession style. Until today, the Secession continues to uphold its motto to promote international contemporary art.

Just in the neighborhood of the Secession there is the Karlskirche (St. Charles Church), a stunning sacred edifice with a giant emerald green cupola. During 1713 and 1714, the last great plague broke out in Vienna and took away thousands of lives. Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI pledged to build a church dedicated to Saint Charles Borromeo. Archbishop Charles Borromeo was regarded as a “plague saint” since he selflessly took care of the poor and the sick when a plague was raging in Milan in the 16th century. The interior decoration of the church is just similar to the one that can be found in any other European church, except a unique meticulous design. A huge globe with a reflective surface hung suspended from the ceiling. It is quite a thoughtful design which allows visitors to see the interior all at once through the reflections from the globe.

As mentioned before, a European palace is usually an ensemble of various buildings and gardens. In order to minimize the violation of the original natural setting, generally no additional lighting system would be installed in the royal gardens. Therefore, most European palaces together with their gardens are closed before nightfall. Belvedere is one of the few palaces which still stays open to the public late at night every Friday. Formerly a summer residence for Prince Eugene of Savoy during the 18th century, this Baroque palace complex is now home to the Belvedere museum. The museum is composed of two main buildings which are connected by an extensive baroque garden. The Upper Belvedere showcases permanent art exhibitions from the medieval to interwar periods, including the world-leading collection of Gustav Klimt’s paintings, such as “The Kiss ” and “Judith”. The Lower Belvedere mainly accommodates special exhibitions. As the palace itself is one of the most gorgeous Baroque architecture, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Day Five - Vienna: Hofburg (Sommerhotel Wieden, 3-star hotel)

Since first built in the 13th century, Hofburg had served as a symbol of the political strength of the Habsburg family. With the increasing power of the Habsburgs, the royal residence was extended a lot from its original size in the following years. For centuries, the splendid white building had served as principal imperial winter palace and seat of government of the Habsburg dynasty. It currently serves as the official residence and workplace of the President of Austria. Today it houses three outstanding museums with an array of spectacular royal collections. It is a place where one can step back into the pages of nineteenth century Europe and relive some of the most significant periods in Austrian history.

Dedicated to the legendary Austrian empress, the Sisi Museum is undeniably the focal point of the palace. More commonly known as Sisi, Empress Elisabeth was unquestionably regarded as the most beautiful European queen of her time. Sisi was widely beloved not only by her beauty, but also by her political achievement. Making use of her influence on her husband king Franz Joseph I, Austrian government agreed to conclude the stalemate and reconcile with the Hungarians on granting a certain political autonomy to Hungary. A compromise between two governments was reached and the existence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire was thus prolonged for another half century. Today, over a century after her assassination, Sisi is still one of the most respected figures in both Austria and Hungary.

The Sisi Museum intends to recreate the royal private life of Empress Elisabeth through hundreds of personal luxury items which once belonged to her. Some of the most remarkable exhibits include Sisi’s childhood harp, the original christening robes, the reconstructed Hungarian coronation dress, and even the empress’s luxurious imperial saloon car. Together with dozens of portraits of the Queen Sisi, the exhibition fully illustrates the charismatic character of the celebrated empress, as well as her incomparable beauty and curvaceous figure.

The Imperial Apartments are the former private and official chambers of Queen Sisi and her husband. Walking through numbers of splendor apartments once used by the imperial couple, one may gradually immerse themselves into the atmosphere of royalty. The daily royal life can be experience in the Queen’s salons, bedroom, bathroom and many others. It is said that the beauty-conscious Empress Sisi spent many hours in the exercise-cum-dressing room every day. Doing gymnastic exercise may be the queen’s secret to her forever beauty.

The Silver Collection is another attractive feature of the palace. “Sparkling” may be the only adjective to describe this exhibition. Countless glittering silverware can be admired here, especially the 30 meter-long Milan centerpiece. Besides the invaluable silver eating utensils, precious porcelain and luminous glassware can also be seen. With such a sophisticated array of royal kitchenware, the traditional imperial dining experience was brought back to life.

A natural history museum is a kind of museum which I have never missed to visit when I travel to a new place. Naturhistorisches Museum Wien (Natural History Museum) is one of the largest non-university research institutions in Austria, and which houses the largest and oldest meteorite collection in the world, including the meteorite from Mars. Loads of skeletons of the gigantic prehistoric creatures are presented in the dinosaur hall. A lifelike allosaurus can even move and roar just like a real one. Although it is housed in a historic architectural structure that dates back to the late 19th century, the museum is equipped with cutting-edge technological facilities like the brand new planetarium. Equipped with the state-of-the-art full-dome technology, the digital planetarium shows some panoramic short movies which are related to various aspects in natural science. With a huge collection ranging from precious minerals and gems to stunning taxidermy animal specimens, this museum is a perfect place where families can easily spend half an afternoon wandering around.

Imperial Furniture Museum is a single-themed museum which stores the most complete furniture collection once owned by the Hapsburg family. Hundreds of thousands pieces of antique furniture are on display, making it one of the largest furniture collections in the world. Royal chambers were meticulously recreated along with imperial thrones, commodes and even spittoons. Through the ornate furniture used by the royal family, one may imagine how extravagant the life of the Hapsburg dynasty could be, as well as how powerful the Austrian Empire was back then.

Constructed by the same known architect of the Belvedere Palace, Peterskirche (St Peter’s Church) is the city’s finest example of Baroque Catholic edifice. Hiding behind the hustle and bustle of Petersplatz, the Church has long kept a relatively low profile compared with other similar sumptuous Baroque architectures. Thanks to its iconic emerald dome along with two turrets flanking on each side, this remarkable church would not be overlooked by anyone. Some may think it is a little bit gloomy when you go inside, but the fascinating religious artworks boasts the interior decoration of the church.

Day Six - Vienna: Time Travel (Sommerhotel Wieden, 3-star hotel)

Since I had to catch my plane early at night, I only had a few more hours to see as many sights as I could before leaving this romantic capital. Having paid visit to some most popular tourist hotspots in the last two days, I would like to look for somewhere less traditional in order to experience the city from different angles on my last day in Vienna. Time Travel has been the very first museum where I found it both amusing and educational since I came to Central Europe. Making use of the latest virtual reality equipment along with spectacular 5D cinematic technology, visitors feel like stepping into medieval Vienna to relive the life of the ordinary Viennese citizens back then. During the one-hour walk-through guided tour, visitors can review a series of critical scenes relating to significant moments in Viennese history, including the Roman Vienna, the Black Death and the Turkish siege. With life-like animatronic wax figures as well as exceptional sound effects, one may just like travelling back to the past and meeting some well-known historical figures in person, such as Maria Theresia, Mozart and Sisi. Time Travel is an unconventional museum which brings history to life and it introduces a new way to learn history. It is undoubtedly a fantastic paradise for every history lover and it will surely delight young and old alike .

Museum der Illusionen (Museum of Illusions) was like no other museum I had been to before. It is not so much like a tiny educational institution full of informative knowledge but more like a mini experimental laboratory full of intriguing components. As soon as you step through the entrance of the museum, it is just like letting yourself jump into an illogical world which is full of illusions and delusions. Every single piece of exhibits found in the museum can not only blow your mind up but also give you an opportunity to think in a different way. Visitors may try defying gravity in an inclined room, watch your companions enlarging and shrinking in the Ames room, struggle to walk through a vortex tunnel which moves like a rotating cylinder. This interactive museum is suitable for the whole family of all ages. Spending an hour or so to experience something beyond your imagination is absolutely recommended.

After grabbing a quick lunch, I hurried to my next destination. I am not so sure the following museum is suitable for every range of ages, especially for young children. During my trip to Europe, seldom have I encountered such kind of museum since not every European city has one. But once I come across one, I will never miss visiting it. Located in a former World War Two air-raid shelter, Foltermuseum (Torture Museum) is a dungeon-like museum that demonstrates various kinds of torture methods in history. Based on the meticulous research on the subject of physical punishment, multiple brutal torture scenes are recreated in detail. Following the tunnel-like exhibition route, visitors are able to scrutinize every detail of the torturing processes during Medieval Europe. This extraordinary museum reveals a dark chapter of mankind’s history in front of everyone’s eyes with the help of some wax dummies and fastidiously decorated prison-like torture chambers.

After visiting several bizarre museums, I turned my attention to some place with religious solemnity. As a culturally significant heritage landmark of the city, Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral) is one of the most popular attractions of the capital, loved by both tourists and Vienna residents. Since it was first consecrated in the mid-12th century, this Romanesque church was successively redesigned and reconstructed in the following centuries. With its sheer height of 136 metres and the largest free-swinging bell in Austria, the Pummerin, making it one of the most recognizable edifices in the city. During the Second World War, the Church was nearly burned down to the ground. Thanks to the support from the Viennese citizens, Stephansdom was rebuilt and reopened seven years after the war.

According to my original flight schedule, the plane was supposed to take off around six in the evening. Unfortunately, my flight was delayed for no reason and not to take off until seven at night. Since then, everything went wrong. Because of my flight delay, I missed my connecting flight. I had no choice but to be forced to stay in Frankfurt overnight. Because I failed to check in at the hotel in my next destination as scheduled, my travel itinerary was completely messed up!

Day Seven - Ljubljana: Postojna Cave (Ambrozic, 1-star hotel)

As the largest city of Slovenia, Ljubljana is a city which is quite strange to most Hong Kong people. Some Hong Kongers may have never heard this place before, not to mention visiting it. Ljubljana is the top ten smallest capital in Europe. Its territorial size is only a little bit bigger than Tai Po but with lesser population. Ljubljana is just similar to a number of other amiable European cities which are dotted with a wide range of exquisite medieval architectures, exuding a special charm of western artistic attractiveness. Under such kind of cultural atmosphere, one may be able to experience the true beauty of this mini European city. Awarded as the European Green Capital in 2016, Ljubljana has also proved to be one of the best European countries which has paid much effort in protecting the natural environment. Ljubljana is an enchanting green city combining the charm of unspoiled wildlife habitat and traditional European culture.

Long before my trip started, I reserved a local guided tour package through the Internet. As per my original travel itinerary, I was supposed to reach Ljubljana on the night of 8th September and join that local tour to Lake Bled and Postojna Cave early in the morning the next day. However, because of my flight delay, I had not arrived in Ljubljana until noon of 9th September. Since I failed to join my prepaid local tour on time in that morning, a thousand dollar worth local tour package was voided. In order to continue my trip I had no alternative but to look for another means of transport to go to Postojna on my own.

Upon coming to the bus station, I was anxious to find a bus to complete the journey. I was lucky enough to get on the last bus to my designated destination. After over an hour bus drive, I came to Postojna Cave late in the afternoon. Never have I visited an amazing natural realm hidden beneath the surface. Carved millions of years ago by the Pivka River, Postojna Cave is one of the best examples of karst formation found in Europe. Taking a cave tourist train, visitors are allowed to observe the rock formation of stalactite and stalagmite at a close range. The largest stalagmite can be up to 16 metres in height. With over 24 kilometres of underground passages, Postojna Cave is one of the longest cave systems in Slovenia, making it the most visited tourist cave in Europe. Every year half a million of visitors from around the world come to marvel at this breathtaking stone forest scenery. Some rare species can also be found inside the cave. The most spectacular of which must be a kind of cave-dwelling salamander called the olm. It is a type of amphibian which looks like a baby dragon. With its cute appearance, olms have become the most welcomed aquatic creatures which can only be found in caves.

Leaving the cave after the guided tour ended, I walked down the mountain and reached a local tourist office before nightfall. By the time I came to the tourist office, only one young lady staff was on duty. I asked her if she could show me the way back to my hotel. Unexpectedly I was told that neither train nor bus was available to take me back to the city centre since all means of public transportation were closed early at night. Taking a taxi was the only possible way to go back to my hotel. The female staff was kind enough to help me call a taxi and keep me company before the taxi arrived. I had a nice chat with the pretty girl. Through the conservation, I learned a lot more about the life and culture of Slovenia. Although taking an expensive rental car back to the downtown cost me an arm and a leg, it was an invaluable experience to talk to a local and learn something which I could never find from any travel guidebooks.

Day Eight - Ljubljana: Ljubljanski Grad (Ambrozic, 1-star hotel)

Before leaving this picturesque charming old city, I decided to spend half a day in the downtown where I could get a glimpse into Slovenian history. Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle) is definitely the historical landmark of the city. Situated on a small hill in the centre of Ljubljana, the castle is easily reachable by funicular railway. Originally built during medieval times, the castle has been standing on the green hill overlooking the city for hundreds of years. It is unlike any other castles I have visited before because this one is quite well-preserved with many modern decorations. One of highlights of the castle is surely the panoramic view from the outlook tower. Walking down from the viewing tower, visitors can briefly review the history of the fortress by watching a 12-minute-long documentary in a video presentation room. The permanent exhibition of Museum of Slovene History offers every visitor some insights relating to the colourful past of Ljubljana. Visitors can go through the history of the country since ancient times till contemporary period. Another point of interest of the site must be the Museum of Puppetry. Newly set up in 2015, the museum houses a various range of marionettes and glove puppets depicting the history of puppeteering in Slovenia. It is a must-visit tourist attraction if anyone who wants to learn more about the city’s rich heritage and culture.

Leaving the majestic castle around noon, I crossed the river and came to the largest cultural institution of the city. Mestni muzej Ljubljana (City Museum of Ljubljana) is hosted inside the Auersperg Palace. Housing in a palatial Renaissance building, the museum itself is an architectural jewel. The City Museum is abundant with hundreds of thousands of valuable exhibits that represent an integral part of Ljubljana’s cultural and historical heritage. The oldest and most famous artefact found in the museum is a prehistoric wooden wheel with an axe. It was found on the Ljubljana Marshes and could be dated back to as long ago as 5200 years in history. As the museum building stands right on an ancient Roman ruin, extensive archaeological excavations were carried out during renovation some twenty years from now. The archaeological findings reveal the best preserved remains of the Roman settlement of Emona dating back two millennia ago. The museum offers an excellent historical presentation about the city. It is the exact place where you should put on your travel itinerary if you would like to know more about the history of Ljubljana.

After having a leisure lunch at a Chinese restaurant, I set off to the train station. According to my travel schedule, two more Austrian cities were planned to be visited. After taking a four and a half hour train ride from Ljubljana, I finally went back to Austria and arrived in Salzburg, another big city of Austria.

Day Nine - Hallstatt: Salzwelten Hallstatt (A & O Salzburg Hauptbahnhof)

Getting up early in the morning, I started my day trip to a tranquil small town of central Austria named Hallstatt. The easiest way to get to this remote lakeside location is by train from Salzburg. It was quite a long journey and it took me more than two and a half hours to reach this legendary wonderland. Widely known for its World’s First Salt Mine, Hallstatt was enlisted as a UNESCO heritage site in 1997.The scenery of Hallstatt has long been applauded as the most beautiful place in Austria and is one of the must-see tourist hotspots for most first-time visitors. Hallstatt is only a cozy lakeside village with a population less than a thousand inhabitants, but a least ten thousand tourists come to visit this fairyland every day.

With over seven millenniums of history, Salzwelten Hallstatt is considered to be the oldest salt mine in the world. Taking a 5-minute funicular ride up to Hallstatt High Valley, one can look at a whole view of the historic village below. After reaching the visitor centre, a 90-minute intriguing underground tour is offered to anyone who is interested in learning more about salt mining industry. Suiting up in miners’ clothes, visitors are allowed to explore the salt mine under the guidance of a professional tour guide. Four hundred metres under the ground, there is a mini movie theatre called “The Bronze Age Cinema”. By watching a short movie with 4K resolution, visitors can know more about the daily work routine of an ordinary miner. The oldest wooden staircase in Europe can also be found here. The climax of the tour is unquestionable a ride down the two sets of double-lane miners’ slides. This kind of slide used to be a convenient means of travel for salt miners travelling between different levels of the mine. Those mega-slides are no longer be used as they were replaced by modern elevators. Today, visitors are welcome to slide down from the height of 65 metres. It is absolutely exciting to glide down from that height. If you are not dare enough to slide down on your own, you can invite a friend or two to go with you at a time. Before leaving the mine, visitors can purchase their snapshot photos which are taken while they are gliding down the slide at a high speed. At the end of the tour, each visitor will be given a small bottle of salt as souvenir. The salt mine tour is both entertaining and educational. It is definitely worth you a visit.

The other main attraction of Hallstatt is the Skywalk, a triangular viewing platform hanging 350 metres above the ground. As the metal platform extends 12 metres from the mountainside, once you stand on it you may feel like walking on the sky. On a clear day, one can enjoy a distinctive bird’s eye view of Lake Hallstatt lined with pastel townhouses below.

World Heritage Museum Hallstatt is a small scale local museum which tells the story of Hallstatt for over seven millennia. Tracing back to the time of the very beginning of the ancient salt mine town, the museum shows the cultural and historical development of Hallstatt throughout the years. The exhibits include salt mining tools, weapons, Roman remains, etc. The most precious archaeological finds are the grave treasures dating back to the Iron Age. By using the modern technology such as video animations, holographic representations and three-dimensional presentations, the museum offers visitors a comprehensive picture of the town’s history.

The next attraction point may be a little bit scary for some people. Built in a two-story chapel with a few hundred years of history, Charnel House Hallstatt is a small old building where is stacked with more than 1200 human skulls, with about half of them are artistically painted. Approximately 600 skulls are labelled with names and mostly decorated in a form of cross, flowers, leaves or branches. Although the charnel house is not as popular as the above mentioned tourist spots, it is still worth a visit if anyone who is interested in learning more about the funeral custom of the eastern Alpine region.

A visit to Hallstatt is not complete without taking a postcard photo at the best photogenic spot. This photo shooting place has been unanimously recognized by most tourists from all around the globe. The exact location can even be found through the Google Map. It is no exaggeration that the beauty of Hallstatt is incomparable to any other city found in Austria. This walkable idyllic village feels like it is straight out of a fairytale.

Day Ten - Salzburg: Schloss Hellbrunn (A & O Salzburg Hauptbahnhof)

Perched at the northern edge of the Alps, Salzburg is the fourth-largest city of Austria with a population of roughly 150,000 residents. Famed for its exceptionally well-preserved Baroque architecture and rich cultural sights, Salzburg’s historic centre was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. As one of the most visited cities of Austria, every year millions of tourists from all over the world flock to admire this inspiring city.

Most sightseers who come to Salzburg would probably put the following palace at the top of their travel itinerary. Initially built over four centuries from now, Schloss Hellbrunn (Hellbrunn Palace) used to be a summer-time retreat of a prince-archbishop of Salzburg back in the early 17th century. However, the archbishop had never stayed overnight in this place since there was no single bedroom in the palace. The main purpose of building was not actually served as a residence, but as a playhouse for the pleasure of the archbishop. The palace itself was an idiosyncratic architectural masterpiece in Renaissance style. Situated at the foot of the Hellbrunn Mountain with an abundant source of water, the garden of the palace was equipped with sophisticated water-powered devices, the most remarkable of which was the “Trick Fountain”. During an outdoor feast on hot summer days, the archbishop was used to playing water tricks on his guests. The trick fountains would suddenly spray water from all nozzles and everyone who sitting around the table would all get wet except the archbishop himself.

Even after hundreds of years since they were first constructed, all those water-driven mechanisms are still in good condition. Today, visitors can join a tour to wander around the palace garden. The tour guide would even play water tricks on visitors just like what the archbishop did four hundred years ago. Surely the water games can amaze children and adults alike. Such a palace tour is quite unconventional but so intriguing.

Walking up to the hill from the palace park, Volkskunde Museum (Folklore Museum) is situated at the hilltop overlooking the Hellbrunn Palace. It is a small but informative local museum with fascinating exhibits and artifacts on town history and culture, including traditional furniture, carnival costumes, religious craftwork and glass paintings. If anyone happens to be interested in the traditional life of Salzburg, this is definitely a place well worth a visit.

Back to the old town centre, I came to visit the main cathedral of the city. Originally constructed in the early 17th century, Dom zu Salzburg (Salzburg Cathedral) suffered from several times of fire damage and an air raid during World War Two. Fifteen years after the Second World War, the Baroque cathedral was completely restored and reconsecrated in 1959. The Salzburg Cathedral has the second largest bell in the whole of Austria, after the Pummerin of the St Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna. The world-renowned music composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptized in this cathedral one day after his birth.

Riding a funicular up to the Festungberg Hill at an altitude over five hundred metres, I　found the highest and largest landmark of the city. Festung Hohensalzburg (Hohensalzburg Fortress) has long been praised as one of the largest fully preserved medieval castle in Europe, making it a must-go tourist destination for most tourists. Erected high atop the hill, the colossal fortress has been overlooking the old town quarter for nearly a thousand years. The fortification has first been used as a military barrack and later served as a residence of the prince archbishops, and then a prison. Today, visitors can explore the Royal Apartments as well as three museums housed in the fortress. The Fortress Museum tells the daily life of the prince archbishops. The Marionette Museum features immaculate puppets from the Salzburg Marionette Theatre. The Rainer Regiment Museum focused on military history of a former infantry regiment. Hohensalzburg Fortress is indisputably the best place to make yourself familiar with the history of Salzburg.

Day Eleven - Salzburg: Original Sound of Music Tour (A & O Salzburg Hauptbahnhof)

Most Hong Kong teenagers may have never watched the old film “The Sound of Music”, but they have probably ever listened to the most catchy song “Do Re Mi” from that movie. The songs from "The Sound of Music" are well-renowned around the globe. First released over five decades from now, the musical “The Sound of Music” is indubitably one of the legendary movies of all time. Some people may aware that the story happened in Austria, but seldom of them know that it was filmed in Salzburg. Today, tourists can join a sightseeing tour to visit some of the most memorable shooting locations from the movie.

Only spending around four hundred Hong Kong dollars for joining the “Original Sound of Music Tour” was the best decision I had ever made in this trip. The tour itinerary was meticulously designed to make sure the participants reminisce the best scenes appearing in the film. During the tour on the coach between venues, passengers could enjoy their favourite movie songs from the original soundtrack. The very first destination was the Hellbrunn Castle, where I found the romantic Glass Pavilion and made me recall one of my favourite movie songs “16 going on 17”. The second stop was a magnificent white mansion, Schloss Leopoldskron (Leopoldskron Castle), situated beside a peaceful lake. The scenery of the Baroque castle was terrific when the morning sunlight reflected from the calm surface of the lake. The Leopoldskron Lake was the place where the protagonist Maria and the children fell into the water while they were boating on the lake. At about noon, the tour was taken to another significant filming spot, Kloster Mondsee (Mondsee Abbey). This bright yellow basilica was the place where Maria walked down the aisle with the baron. Back to the downtown, the tourist group was brought to the Mirabell Garden, where Maria and the seven children were dancing around the Pegasus Fountain while singing the timeless song “Do Re Mi”. As far as I was concerned, joining this half-day tour was the most enjoyable way to discover historical and architectural landmarks of Salzburg.

Almost everyone in the world knows Mozart is one of the most talented music composers in history, but not many people know this musical genius was born in Salzburg. If anyone who wants to learn more about Mozart, Mozart-Wohnhaus (Mozart Residence) is the museum should not be ignored. Suffered from air raid bombings during the Second World War, the museum building was severely damaged. But it was later reconstructed true to the original building plan and reopened to the public in 1996. Occupied a spacious eight-room apartment on the first floor, the museum hosts loads of original documents and portraits as well as the piano which was once used by Mozart.

Just on the other side of the river, another museum which tells the story of Mozart is found. Mozarts Geburtshaus (Mozart's Birthplace) was a three-storey bright-yellow town house where Mozart was born and spent his childhood. The museum harbours some important personal effects of the young composer, including some musical instruments such as violins, a clavichord and a harpsichord. It also displays some historical documents, portraits and even a lock of Mozart’s hair.

Both of the above museums are just like pilgrimage sites for the fans of Mozart. Considering these two museums are not that big, an hour or so is long enough to walk around and explore. Even if your travel itinerary is a little bit tight, these two museums can still be easily included in your half-day plan.

Before heading to my next city, I only had limited time to visit one more tourist site. Fortunately, my next stop was just around the corner. Only ten-minute walking distance from Mozart Geburtshaus, I reached an enormous science museum with more than 7000 square meters of exhibit space. Haus der Natur (Museum of Natural History and Technology) is by far the largest museum in the city. It is an integrated science museum that displays everything related to science and technology. A vast variety of captivating exhibits, ranging from titanic dinosaurs from primeval times to a journey through the human body, from enchanting marine world in the aquarium to extraterrestrial adventures in the outer space hall. A variety of interactive experiments are also offered at a science centre for visitors of all ages. Since there are countless possibilities waiting for exploration, one can easily spend a few hours here.

Generally speaking rail travel is the most convenient and economical way for tourists to move between major cities within European continent, but it may not be always the case. Sometimes there may be no direct train service to the city you want to visit, especially during the off season period. A train-to-train interchange could be quite annoying and time consuming. Air travel may not be an alternative because not every European city has an airport. Road travel seems to be the only option left.

It was my first time to hire a rental car for taking me from one city to another. Making an online reservation in advance, a mini shuttle van picked me up in my hotel on time. I shared the vehicle with a few other passengers going to the same destination. During a long boring car drive, I encountered a female passenger sitting next to me. She was a young Korean girl named Kim Eun Ha, or called Golden Galaxy for the English direct translation. On our way to Czech Republic, we kept each other company and shared every aspect of our lives. During the conservation, I learned a lot about the culture and society of South Korea. I was told that the remuneration offered by the Korean government was not that attractive compared with that of certain other big private companies. Most Korean young job seekers prefer to enter some large private corporations like Samsung as junior office workers for a challenging career experience rather than join the government as civil servants for a stable working environment. It is obvious that the next generation of South Korea is far more progressive and self-motivated than that of Hong Kong. It was a treasured experience to meet someone from other countries on the road.

Day Twelve - Český Krumlov: Český Krumlov Castle (Penzion Landauer, 3-star hotel)

After an exhausting three-hour car ride from Salzburg, I arrived in the southern town of the Czech Republic, Český Krumlov. Situated on the meander of the Vltava River, the town is one of the country’s finest examples of a medieval site. Walking down the narrow cobbles streets lined with elegant orange-roofed buildings in Gothic or Baroque style, it is easy to see why the historical centre of Český Krumlov is a UNECSO world heritage site. Since many of the major tourist attractions are scattered along the horseshoe bend river within walking distance, even one-day visitors have plenty of time to explore this pictorial small town on their own pace.

Declared as a National Cultural Monument in 1989, Český Krumlov Castle is the second-largest castle complex in the country after Prague Castle. The castle interiors are only accessible by guided tour. By joining the tour, visitors can admire the opulent Renaissance and Baroque apartments as well as the world's best-preserved Baroque theatre. Visiting the Castle Museum will give tourists some insights of the glorious history of the castle. Climbing up around a hundred and sixty steps to the top of the Castle Tower is rewarded with an unblocking view of the city. By the time I visited the castle, two bears were found playing in the moat. It was the first time I met wild beasts keeping in a castle. The Castle is iconic to the city and is popular among tourists.

Founded in the mid-14th century, Monasteries Český Krumlov is a large religious edifice in town. The building itself is well-maintained, with a bright orange rooftop and an emerald green tower. The exhibition features the everyday monastery life during the middle age. A small garden next to the monastery is quite a good picnic spot.

After having lunch at a Chinese restaurant, I came to a local museum. Egon Schiele Art Centrum is an art museum which is dedicated to the life and works of the Austrian Expressionist painter Egon Schiele. During Schiele’s short life of 28 years, his artworks brought him neither financial reward nor social recognition. Just like many other noted artists, Schiele’s artistic talents were only appreciated after his death. The museum displays the painter’s drawings, furniture, personal letters, photographs and many others, which shows how Schiele loved this city.

Hidden under the main town square, there is a gruesome museum focused on the brutal medieval history of torture. Museum of Torture instruments is merely a small-sized museum with a limited exhibition space of about 400 square metres, only has half the size of Foltermuseum (Torture Museum) of Vienna. Although it is small in scale, more than a hundred grisly torture devices are on display. With special sound effect and life-sized wax figures, a mystical horror atmosphere is created in this cellar-like museum. Some thrilling scenes of capital punishment are also showcased, including witch-burning and sword execution. Since it is a tiny museum, 15 minutes or so is long enough to check out all the exhibits.

Before leaving this quaint town, one more place I would like to stop by. Český Krumlov Regional Museum can be regarded as a local history museum which tells the town history from prehistoric period till the late 19th century. The museum has a rich collection of archaeological artefacts, weapons, maps, furniture, old paintings and so on. The most attention grabbing exhibit is the exquisitely detailed ceramic model of Český Krumlov's old town , one of the largest models of this kind in the world. The museum provides a brief overview of the historic development of the region.

Day Thirteen - Praha: Prazsky Hrad (Hotel Cechie Praha, 4-star hotel)

Taking another three-hour car drive from Český Krumlov, I reached the final destination of my trip to Central Europe. Lying right at the heart of Europe, Prague is the capital and the largest city of the Czech Republic. As the historical capital of Bohemia, it is not surprising that this city provides no shortage of cultural sites to visit. The city is internationally renowned for its medieval architectural masterpieces, making it unparalleled to any other place in Europe. Because of its reputable time-honored sights and mind-blowing sceneries, the historic centre of Prague is inscribed in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Prague is a city with many beautiful nicknames. As countless church spires soaring above the city skyline, the capital is also known as the “City of a Hundred Spires”. Since numerous orangish rooftops shine like gold under the evening sunlight, the city is sometimes referred to as the “City of Gold”. No matter what name it is called, Prague is certainly one of the most charming cities in Central Europe.

First established around the 9th century, Pražský hrad (Prague Castle) has been the most recognizable landmark of the city for more than a thousand years. The castle is believed to be the largest castle complex in the world, covering an area of approximately 70,000 square metres. The castle used to be the seat of many Bohemian kings and today is the official residence of the president of the Czech Republic. The popular event of Changing the Guard can also be seen for free in the first courtyard of the castle every day at noon. As the top tourist attraction of the city, it attracts over a million visitors every year.

In the vicinity of Prague Castle, there are many majestic buildings worth mentioning. Build after a great fire in the mid-16th century, Schwarzenbersky Palac (Schwarzenberg Palace) is one of the most impressive Renaissance palaces in Prague. The building itself is a masterpiece of art. The facades and walls are richly decorated with black-and-white sgraffitoes in the Italian style. The palace is currently home to the National Gallery in Prague.

In the same proximity, Šternberský palác (Sternberg Palace) is recognized an exemplary example of High Baroque architecture in Prague. Today, the palace houses permanent exposition of old European Baroque Art.

Katedrála svatého Víta (Saint Vitus Cathedral) is the most eye-popping architectural edifice at the Prague Castle. This Gothic masterpiece took almost six centuries to complete. It is also the largest and the most important religious building in the city. The cathedral was the coronation church and burial place of the Bohemian rulers. It is a very popular tourist site so a long queue is expected.

Compared with the grandiose Katedrála svatého Víta, Loreta Praha keeps a relatively low profile in the Castle Region. The 17th century Baroque-style shrine houses astonishing treasures including the illustrious star-shaped "Sun of Prague," which is studded with 6,222 diamonds. Another highlight is that a 27-bell carillon plays sacred songs every hour between nine in the morning and six in the evening.

Seated upon the summit of Petrin Hill at the height of over three hundred metres, Petřínská rozhledna (Petrin Tower) is an observation tower offering amazing 360-degree panoramic views of the capital. The steel-framework tower was first built in the year 1891 as a miniature replica of the Eiffel Tower of Paris. Petřín Lookout Tower stands only 63 metres tall and only one fifth the height of the French Eiffel Tower. Since the tower is situated on a high hill, its elevation is more or less the same as the original tower in France. Climbing up 299 steps to reach the observation platform, the indescribable city view is incomparable to any other place in Prague.

Not far away from the Petrin Tower, there is a mini fairy-tale chateau. Petrin Mirror Maze is a small labyrinth with 15 distorting mirrors. The reflection from these mirrors will be distorted in a funny way. But the thing drawing my attention most was a fighting scene between the Prague townsfolk and the Swedes invaders on Charles Bridge at the end of the Thirty Years War in 1648.

If you are interested in ghost stories or occult tales, the following two museums may be your cup of tea. Muzeum pražských pověstí a strašidel (Prague Ghosts and Legends Museum) leads you to the underground street of spirits. Many prominent Prague spirits and ghosts stand in front of you, such as the Headless Laura, the Skeleton of Jánský vršek, the Baby of Charles Bridge.

In the same neighborhood, Muzeum alchymistů a mágů staré Prahy (Museum of Alchemists and Magicians of Old Prague) is an interactive museum telling the story of some far-famed alchemists, like Edward Kelley and John Dee. Visitors can enter the mysterious room of the Faust’s house and the laboratory of alchemists. I expected that anyone who is the fan of the Japanese anime “Fullmetal Alchemist” would like to pay a visit to this museum.

Day Fourteen - Praha: Narodni Muzeum (Hotel Cechie Praha, 4-star hotel)

On the last day of my trip to central Europe, I decided to go to somewhere that is full of fun. No one would deny that Lego is one of the most successful toys in history. Many Hong Kong children have played Lego before. Not only is the Lego a toy, but also an education tool to train up your creativity. The Lego brick has once been crowned as the "Toy of the Century" by Forbes Magazine. During my trip in Prague, I was fortunate enough to visit two museums themed with Lego.

With an exposition area of 340 square metres featuring over 2500 models divided into 20 theme exhibits, Lego Museum Prague is the largest private museum of its kind in the world. It is roughly estimated that more than one million Lego bricks have been used to build the exhibits on display. Imagine you are taking a fantasy journey to a miniature wonderland where everything is made of Lego blocks. Visitors can find some replicas of world famous architecture, such as Taj Mahal, Statue of Liberty, Tower Bridge and much more. Some characters from the cartoons and the movies are also reconstructed, including Star Wars, Indian Jones and Harry Potter. The most attractive model of all is the kinetic exhibition of Lego trains. Kids are also welcomed to build their own Lego models in the play area. Though the museum is not big, it is still a pilgrimage site for Lego lovers.

Lego Repubrick is the second museum dedicated to this long beloved toy. The display area covers 900 square metres featuring 30 gigantic Lego models. All models are made at 1:40 scale to the real-life buildings and architecture. A number of Czech monuments have been transformed into huge Lego models to the smallest detail. Visitors will discover Karlštejn Castle, the Ještěď TV tower, St Vitus Cathedral, etc. It is another unmissable site for Lego fans.

Národní muzeum (The National Museum) is the largest museum in the Czech Republic. It covers a wide range of disciplines from natural sciences to social sciences. By the time I visited to this museum, several special exhibitions were on displayed. Perhaps the most striking exhibition was the “Tutankhamun Real Experience”. Tutankhamun was one of the most celebrated pharaohs in ancient Egypt. Making use of the most advanced multimedia technologies, visitors can be immersed themselves in an enthralling journey to discover the ancient Egyptian underworld. “Keltove” was an exhibition about life of the Celts during the Iron Age. The exhibition “Doba Genova” briefly introduced the basic knowledge related to DNA and genes.

Karlův most (Charles Bridge) is a medieval stone arch bridge that crosses the Vltava River and connects the Old Town with the Lesser Town. The construction was first commissioned by Charles IV in the mid-14th century and finished in the early 15th century. There are totally thirty Baroque statues are placed along either side of the bridge. As an iconic landmark of the capital, this popular pedestrian bridge is always lined with vendors, painters, musicians and tourists. Taking a selfie snapshot beside Charles Bridge is a must-do when one is in Prague.

Travelling to a new place, Learning a new culture, Sharing with new friends

Organizing a self-guided trip has never been easy, especially for a budget-tight backpacker. Gathering information about your destinations, booking air and rail tickets, reserving hotel rooms, buying local tour packages can all drive you crazy. During the trip, you may need to deal with some emergency situations, such as flight delay or cancel, bad weather, luggage damage. Arranging an independent travel is somewhat more like a problem-solving process rather than a pleasure activity. Travelling to a new frontier can open up your mind. Learning a foreign culture can broaden your horizon. Sharing your travel experience can inspire the people around you. As a European culture enthusiast, I will keep sharing what I experienced in Europe.

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