#vincent roubert
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Vintage Perfume Quick Takes
brief summaries for when I didn't have enough to write for a full review
F. Millot Crepe de Chine
Nose: Jean Desprez
Notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, lemon, orange; carnation, lilac, iris, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, elemi; oakmoss, galbanum, heather, sandalwood, leather, benzoin, musk, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, amber
Goes on with a hit of boozy-sweet resins, and quickly fades into a fluffy, chintzy mixed floral, heavy on the rose. I find it forgettable.
It's supposed to be a bitter, sophisticated chypre; maybe I got a suboptimal sample or a bad nose day?
Evyan White Shoulders
notes: aldehydes, orange flower, green notes, peach, bergamot; gardenia, lilac, tuberose, jasmine, lily, lily-of-the-valley, iris, spices; civet, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, benzoin
Your basic white floral. Smells good, though maybe a little too sweet and creamy for my taste; fades rapidly.
Guerlain Chant D'Aromes
Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Notes: aldehydes, citrus, gardenia, plum; honeysuckle, jasmine, ylang-ylang, clove; heliotrope, vetiver, olibanum, benzoin, vanilla
This was a light, citrusy floral veil with a cuddly-soft drydown. There were some unusual herbal notes, almost like cooking herbs (thyme?). Delicate and pleasant but not too memorable.
Coty L'Aimant
Nose: Vincent Roubert
Notes: aldehydes, neroli, peach, bergamot; ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, geranium, orchid; musk, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka, vetiver, cedar
This is a bit of formal glass-chandelier sparkle over the usual Coty powder-soft base. A milder, puff-powder version of the classic aldehydic floral. The powder certainly makes it easier to wear, but also less interesting.
It settles into pure powder, musky and sweet and very skin-like.
Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Nose: Jacques Guerlain
Notes: lavender, bergamot, lemon verbena; neroli, tonka, jasmine, patchouli, cinnamon, rose; vanilla, iris, amber, oakmoss
A wine-dark rose, somewhat tangy; that almost immediately falls into pale powder. Not too sweet, just smells clean and comfortable.
I must be missing most of the complexity because everyone else seems to smell lavender, vanilla, and animalics. I get very little of anything, maybe a little bit of the oakmoss spine or a touch of dry citrus, and clean soft powder.
Caron Tabac Blond
Nose: Ernest Daltroff
Notes: carnation, leather, linden; iris, ylang-ylang, vetiver; vanilla, musk, patchouli, cedar
Goes on with smoky, sweetened leather. a soft powdery landing. pleasant but not memorable. Basically Bellodgia with a leather top.
#perfume#fragrance#caron#guerlain#coty#evyan#f. millot#ernest daltroff#jacques guerlain#jean-paul guerlain#vincent roubert#jean desprez
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Knize Ten 100th Anniversary Review - Francois Coty & Vincent Roubert; 1924
One of the all-time greats - Knize Ten - turns 100 this year! #perfume
Perfume databases on the internet aren’t 100% accurate. And although many state that Knize Ten first appeared in 1924, it’s important to point out that some claim the launch date was 1925. However, I’m partial to big anniversaries on my YouTube channel, so I decided to go with the earlier date and take the opportunity to review this beloved classic in a recent episode of Love At First Scent.…
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#1924#2024#anniversary#classic#Francois Coty#Knize#Knize Ten#leather#Love At First Scent#masculine#perfume review#video#Vincent Roubert#vlog#vlogger#YouTube
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Knize Ten (Knize) & Cuir de Russie (Chanel)
1924 is, as they say, no year for old men. The death of Vladimir Ilyich Lenin cues Josef Stalin's first bid for absolute power over the Soviet Union. In Italy, the Fascisti win two-thirds of the popular vote, enabling Benito Mussolini to solidify his dictatorship. Adolf Hitler cools his heels in Landsberg Prison, composing Mein Kampf while awaiting parole. And in Berlin, a 28-year-old amnesiac with wide, pained blue eyes is shuffled from sanatorium to safe house and back again whilst a succession of crowned heads decide whether or not she is the lost Russian Grand Duchess Anastasia.
"Grand Duchess" in Russian is Великая Княжна--Velikaia Knazhna. Knazhna derives from kniaz, or duke, the Czech variant of which is spelled kníže (and pronounced "k'NEE-zhuh"). In 1924, Knize -- haberdasher to the the Imperial Court at Vienna -- contracts perfumer Vincent Roubert to create an olfactory accessory to its new prêt-à-porter line of men's suits. Not to be left out of the craze for Russian leather, Parfums Chanel puts its big gun Ernest Beaux on the scent, as it were.
The results: Knize Ten and Cuir de Russie.
A comparison between Cuir de Russie and Knize Ten provides an illustration of the historical dividing line of the Russian Revolution. Cuir de Russie, of course, is solidly antebellum -- a fragrance rich with royal privilege and idle luxury -- while its contemporary Knize Ten is the Brave New World's fragrance komissar.
Like an adaptation of a popular tune, CdR's citrus and aldehydic notes are perfectly recognizable as Beaux' own masterwork, Chanel No. 5. Here, the familiar champagne fizz is pinned to earth by an impeccable layer of smoky birch tar and ylang-ylang, a buttery floral with a pronounced animalic bent. The outcome would be perfectly suitable for a sybaritic Romanov of either gender, sipping Cristal prestige cuveè in an Imperial train car, or reclining in a mahogany deck chair aboard the Polar Star.... but say goodbye to that fantasy, because its days are numbered.
Knize Ten is the new Soviet era in perfume form: butch, brutal, smartly uniformed and armed to the teeth. Whereas Cuir de Russie evokes the smooth, pliant leather of an Imperial officer's boots or the cushioned interior of a deluxe automobile, Knize Ten smells like new black patent-- aggressively shiny, cheerfully manmade. A toothsome note of cherry pipe tobacco rides up top, and a slightly menacing touch of machine grease lurks underneath, all encased in a plasticky aroma like a new toy fresh out of its packaging. It all stays very smart and industrial until the bottom half of the drydown, when a pleasant amber shows up to convince us that Knize Ten is really just an old-fashioned gentleman under his bandolier.
As the great-granddaughter of Jewish immigrants who fled Mother Russia in the wake of the 1905 Winter Palace massacre, I must admit it is a novel experience to wear these two "Russian" perfumes, one on each arm. I'd layer them, but I fear a bloody insurrection would break out. In any case, they've outlasted the world that produced them, as surely as I've outlasted the worlds that produced me. Whatever earth had to be shattered to get us here, I'm glad we all made it in one piece.
BONUS REVIEW: One of my mutuals on my Aidan Turner fan blog challenged me to match each of Turner's roles to a perfume, so here's the first one I wrote:
PHILIP LOMBARD (And Then There Were None): Knize Ten (1924)
Brief Description: A smart floral leather with a whip to crack
My Take: At first I mistook Lombard for a Caron Pour un Homme man, all uptown lavender and rosemary. But he’s a brute– and brutes favor leather above all else. His is elegant and expensive, but no less heartless for all that. What saves it from total damnation is rose geranium, which casts a softening pink haze over this fragrance’s hard-edged cheekbones. A cruel, cruel classic.
Scent Elements: Birch tar, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orangeflower, bergamot, mandarin (Cuir de Russie); bergamot, lemon, orange, petitgrain, rosemary, geranium, cedarwood, cinnamon, sandalwood, musk, moss, amber, castoreum, vanilla (Knize Ten)
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Jacques Fath presenta le sue nuove emozioni
Jacques Fath presenta le sue nuove emozioni
Fath’s Essentials, un viaggio sensoriale attraverso nuovi territori olfattivi ed emozioni rare Nel 1946, il celeberrimo couturier francese Jacques Fath ha iniziato la collaborazione con il profumiere Vincent Roubert: nacquero così due fragranze iconiche, Green Water e Iris Gris. Settant’anni dopo, Jacques Fath Parfums insieme al giovane profumiere francese Cecile Zarokian ha creato una collezione…
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Notes: geranium, rosemary, petitgrain, bergamot; carnation, patchouli, sandalwood, orris, rose, cinnamon, orange blossom; leather, castoreum, oakmoss, amber, musk, vanilla
Created in 1924 for men’s clothing line Knize (pronounced, as I just learned, “kuh-nee-shuh”), Knize Ten is a sweetened, rich leather.
I can feel the petitgrain and bergamot giving a little citrusy lift in the opening, but the main event is the leather, warmed with amber, grounded by castoreum. The sweetness seems almost fruity at times — Luca Turin claims there’s a strawberry topnote — but recedes smoothly to a rich brown depth.
Knize Ten is pretty much the ultimate warm leather (as opposed to leather chypres, which marry the smoky-rich note with bitter oakmoss, in larger quantities than the accent of oakmoss here.)
It’s perfectly androgynous, as 20’s perfumes tend to be; darkness and soft warmth are beautifully balanced. Lasts all day; radiates a musky buzz a foot away from skin.
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