Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Vintage Donegal Ireland Mens SizeHoundstooth Wool Newsboy Cap Hat Earflaps.

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: TALBOTS Donegal Wool Herringbone Tweed Button Down Midi Skirt Size 4.

One has just to look forthese products online by visiting specific websites

　　Debbie Bliss Eco cottonyarn- is super soft. Debbie Bliss Rialto Merino DK wool is great forsweaters, Color Polyester Yarn, and shows cabling, its excellent texture is ultra soft andmachine washable. Debbie Bliss Stella Yarn hassilk and cotton blendthat is marvelous for summer and for lighter weight garments, it is machinewashable. Other Debbie Bliss knitting wools oryarns are:DebbieBliss Cashmerino DK.DebbieBliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Aran.DebbieBliss Rialto Merino 4ply.DebbieBliss Rialto Merino Aran.Whilst the following areyarns by brand: Araucania, Ashford, Cleckheaton, Eki Riva Alpaca, Forever GreenOrganic, Opal, Panda, Patons, Regia, Shepherd, Sirdar, Sublime, and SupremePossum Merino. This yarn is less prone to pilling than many types of woolout there!Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Chunky - knits up quickly, but isnot too bulky. This angora andmerino wool tweed is worsted weight.A Debbie Bliss knitting wool is a high quality yarn that isexcellent to work with; finished products are ideal both for babies’ garmentsand adults’ shawls, scarves, shirts and ideal on both weathers: winter and summer. Debbie Bliss Fez Yarn-has a tweedy texture, but comes in solid colors and is made from extra finemerino and camel. Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino - is soft and machinewashable

　　One has just to look forthese products online by visiting specific websites.Debbie Bliss knitting wool is one ofthe complete lines of high quality knitting products of Debbie Bliss, amongstthese are silks, knitting books, kits, tools, and knitting patterns.Debbie Bliss aims to satisfy the passion for high qualityknitting products of both the new and skillful knitting enthusiasts. DebbieBliss Como is a super chunky yarn that's incredibly soft and quick to knit up.The Yarns by weightranges from 2 ply to 3,4,5,6,8,10 and 12 ply. Aside from their variety of products on sale,they are also offering discounts and clearance sales. It is found cool in summerand warm in winter.Knittersare assured that with Debbie Bliss products especially with their Debbie Blissknitting wools, knitting as hobby will be enjoyable or as business, it will beprofitable.

　　Debbie Bliss is continuously looking to add more knitting productsto answer specific product search of knitting enthusiasts. Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran – theperfect yarnfor knitting pure & simple patterns, as well as lots of Debbie Blisscreations.Debbie Bliss Luxury TweedYarn - is super soft merino wool tweed with a hint of angora.Every nowand then, one has to check for online sale of these products, especially forthe high quality Debbie Bliss knitting wool.Debbie Bliss also publishes knittingmagasines for both new and skillful knitters which showcase Debbie's freshtrendy, fabulous, exciting and modern designs.High Quality Debbie Bliss Knitting Wools or Yarns, andmagazines.The following are some of their high quality Debbie Blissknitting wools or yarns.

New arrival... '22aw collection BIEK VERSTAPPEN HAND KNITTED CARDIGAN / Bie-22010(KN10-U) made in Amsterdam アムステルダムより、味わい深い手編みのカーディガンニットとなります。 アウターまたはインナーのレイヤードスタイルなど、スタイリングの幅が広がります。 ドネガルツイードヤーン100％素材を使用した、ネップ入りのドネガルツイードの糸で、しかも着心地のいいハンドニット カーディガン。 ※アイルランド・ドネガル地方の伝統的なツイード糸 詳細は下記よりオンラインストアをご利用下さいませ。 https://cavane.shop ・ ・ ・ BIEK VERSTAPPEN ビーク・フェルスタッペン NO : Bie-22010(KN10-U) ITEM : HAND KNITTED CARDIGAN TYPE : women・men SIZE : M COLOR : BLACK x WHITE x MIX STOCK：1 ※再入荷無し 素材 ：毛(donegal tweed yarn)100% BIEK VERSTAPPEN made in Amsterdam HAND KNITTED CARDIGAN 伝統のクラシックなスタイル デザイナーであるBIEK VERSTAPPEN が一点一点染色を施したニットコレクションとなります。 トラッドなスタイルから、モード、カジュアルまで幅広いテイストに溶け込むデザイン。一点もの From her atelier in a 1895 warehouse in the center of Amsterdam, Biek Verstappen creates wearable cloths using only natural fibres as raw silk, bamboo and wool from angora goat, camel, yak and several breeds of sheep. During the whole process, from selecting the perfect Wensleydale curl to the dyeing of the fibres, she works solitary, relying on her instinct and enjoying the quietness, intimacy, peace and softness inherent to the material. . Getting to know the behavior of each type of fibre and playing with their features is what challenges her. By combining different breeds and sorts she creates a depth within the cloth. This gets magnified during dyeing, with each fibre reacting differently on the pigment, resulting in a three dimensional piece that reflects her emotions and her roots, as well as the drama and capriciousness of nature’s origin. ・ ・ こちらよりお問い合わせください。 TEL: 06-6449-8588 or MAIL: [email protected] ・ ・ ・ 商品価格についてお問い合わせはメール、またはonline shopの(お問い合わせ)、インスタグラムのDMよりご連絡をお願い致します。 . . #BIEKVERSTAPPEN #donegalfabric #amsterdam #artisan #classiclstyle #vintage #handknit #handdyed #farmerstyle #donegaltweed #donegalwool #ヴィンテージ #ツイード #ニットカーディガン #ドネガルヤーン #手編みニット #秋冬 #22aw (at Cavane) https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch2jtaLPNlO/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

The Beirt Aran Beanie is *nearly* ready to go - but I would love to see a few tester versions first! If you would like to test knit this hat, please comment below ⬇️ The hat is knit in Aran or wosted weight wool, on 2 sizes of circular needle, and is a one-skein project (well, as long as the skein isn't tiny 😅) The hats pictured were knit in @brooklyntweed Shelter, @donegalyarns Soft Donegal and Aran Tweed, and @quinceandco Lark. Thank you in advance 😃 #testknitting #aranaccessories #beirtbeanie #donegalyarns #shelteryarn #brooklyntweed #aranknittingpattern #aranbeanie #testknitterswanted #testknit #testknittersneeded #testingtesting #softdonegaltweed #arantweed #woolbeanie #irishdesign https://www.instagram.com/p/CfbxN8loc7-/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

ON THE FIRST TAILOR OF SAVILE ROW

by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans

January 2006. I push the door of Henry Poole in Savile Row for the first time, a length of unusual alpaca Shetland tweed under my arm. A nice-looking young tailor courteously greets me and discusses my initial order. He introduces me to the cutter who’ll be travelling to Paris so that my orders and pattern will be handled by the same person who will be doing my fittings, and takes my measurements expertly. My other specifications – the exact color of the mother-of-pearl buttons I want, the softness of the shoulders, the touch of roping ‑‑ are noted diligently. Our pleasant yet professional interaction terminated, I amble out into the chill winter sun, only to hear an eager, “Sir! Sir!” behind me. The nice young tailor is racing up to me, the firm book he had forgotten to offer this new client under his arm. I smile. “It’s all right. I already have one.”

That was not this book, Henry Poole & Co.: The First Tailor of Savile Row.  Like Poole’s neighbor and contemporary Gieves & Hawkes, Poole has followed up a studiously dry, detailed tome from several decades ago with a heavier, flashier collection of pictures and monographs on famous customers, including their recorded lifetime spend at Henry Poole (with helpful conversion into current-day values) and signature garment. A shortened history of Henry Poole the tailor fills a couple of sheets every 25 pages or so. And just like Gieves (which has made much of its address coincidentally being at No. 1 Savile Row), Poole cannot emphasize more its own firsts: it happened to be the first tailor to have an address actually on the street of tailors, even if it is by no means the oldest tailors’ shop there.

But that factoid, like the fact that so many emperors, once-notorious swells, or legendary impresarios were once Poole customers, has little relevance to the present day, except in the daydream world certain prospective customers populate with these figures and trivia, in order to rub elbows, if only metaphorically, with so many supposed connections to some earlier exaltation.  This book’s many pictures, and its helpful tiny biographies of all various names the earlier Poole book only checked, make that clichéd dreamworld easier to realize.  So does the foreword by Poole scion and current joint managing director Simon Cundey, who recalls his father saying “a customer is not a customer until he has ordered a second suit.” Zounds! This performative crotchetiness and snobbery is perfectly targeted. It suggests a closed world of complicated codes, one that the reader is welcomed into and that awaits if he becomes a customer… but only if he can pull off the flex of ordering (if not paying for) two suits. One suit, this suggests, is just not enough to really become part of this secret world.  And author James Sherwood hints that this secret world’s broad geography, encompassing Poole itinerary points from Atlanta to Zurich (via Beijing, Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Luxembourg, Monterey, Singapore and Washington) has in fact been part of Poole’s own centuries-long empire.  An empire, in fact, far longer-lived than those of many of its emperor clients: Napoleon III of Second Empire fame, who seized power in 1851 and lost it, disastrously, during the Franco-Prussian War 20 years later; or Maximilian I, executed by revolutionary firing squad not long after Napoleon III set him on the throne of Mexico, for example.

This book says little about the actual cutting process or making of a garment, and in fact has few pictures of current offerings of the house.  The earlier books about Savile Row tailors conveyed information, history, designed through its dryness to satisfy the intellectual pretentions, as well as the curiosity, of its readers. An efficient dryness, as crisp as the invoices I received directing payments to Poole at Coutts, the Queen’s bankers (of course), and as well-organized as the fittings I had in a very comfortable, very anonymous room at the Hotel Bedford, one of the expensive anonymities in a quiet side street off the Madeleine.  There, my garments took shape and form: my alpaca sportcoat into the soft but sharply cut masterpiece it still, rather more hairily, is; a single-width length of ancient McNutt Donegal tweed into a magnificently dense jacket with every gorgeous motley hue of a windswept seaside speckling forth from it; and, thank goodness, at least two suits, each wonderfully if discreetly cut and comfortable, so that I can still, despite old Mr. Cundey’s interjection, consider myself a onetime customer. There once was a saying, its meaning lost to time, that it took nine tailors to make a man.  (McCarthy-era rat and erstwhile Poole customer Adolphe Menjou borrowed it for the title of his autobiography.) Does that mean that he had to have ordered at least eighteen suits?

Today’s readers, apparently, need to be introduced to the denizens of a supposedly glittering world who can populate a set of illusions, not least the illusion of permanence Poole, and certain other tailors, try to create with books like these.  A tailor, any tailor, is only as good as its current cutters and patternmakers, as well as the associated tailors and garmentmakers involved in assembling and creating its coats and trousers, and the attitude of its management to ensuring it makes things right.  That the customer receives a garment of quality that lives up to the house’s reputation, and that the house promptly and courteously corrects oversights.  I finally got beyond the polite reserve of my former cutter, Mr. Alexander, to a laugh when I apologized for bringing a length of Holland & Sherry linen that my cat used to sleep on.  Mr. Alexander no longer travels. To stay current, Poole has created a collaboration sneaker with Adidas, among other things, whose packaging and navy blue color are designed to evoke Savile Row. I guess. Friends who have remained customers of Poole tailoring have sometimes had to fly to London to get mistakes noticed and corrected, although given the small world of luxury tailoring customers out there, all information is necessarily anecdotal.  I, too, once populated a very empty world with dead client denizens, trumpeted by former Poole customer Lucius Beebe in The Big Spenders, for instance. Dead addresses, too, as I hunted for memorabilia of the Poole Paris shop on rue Tronchet, evacuated in a hurry before the city fell in World War II.  Today, thank God, that empty world is long gone, and I can instead populate a past with my own memories of small orders and small wonders.  I already have the book.

Melbourne is one of the few places where you’re wearing linen one day and tweed the next!

Today, I’m wearing an Inis Meain boat builder turtleneck. The wool is soft and comfortable. Usually, I’d find wool to irritating to my skin and would wear another layer underneath the knit. With this, all I’m wearing is a t-shirt. A lot of it would have to do with the cashmere-merino wool mix of the fabric. I love the many flecks of colour in the donegal yarn.

Mix Those Textures

Now that it’s autumn in the northern hemisphere, and the temperatures have dropped a bit, I’ve been bringing out heavier weight clothes—the flannel trousers, winter weight sport coats and wool ties.

After a summer that was often too hot to even muster a sport coat, not only is it nice to be able to put on a jacket without immediately sweating, but the specific textures of fall and winter are a pleasure to be reacquainted with.

Flannel, tweed, ancient madder, cashmere, Shetland, and I’d include oxford cloth, which is often too warm for me in the summer (at least the oxford shirts I have; I know there are lightweight weaves that work in the summertime). Nothing pairs better than a tweed jacket, oxford shirt, flannel trousers, a cashmere knit tie all with suede shoes.

Or does it? In fact, I prefer not to put together all those textures all at once. I find that when I do, I feel extra bulky—a little too fuzzy. Instead of an oxford shirt, I’ll wear a broadcloth shirt. That actually helps make the other textures shine all the more, providing a sort of simple backdrop for them to be even more appreciable.

The same goes for shoes. While I wear suede shoes most of the time, particularly with blue or white denim, I find that if I’m wearing flannel trousers and a fuzzy sport coat, there’s too much softness going on. Instead, I’ll sometimes put on calf leather shoes. It balances out the fuzzy textures, same as a broadcloth shirt under a tweed jacket.

In my mind, this is akin to exercising restraint in wearing accessories, or patterns, or layers. Just as the old Chanel adage to put every accessory you want to wear on, then remove one item is a useful rule of thumb, thinking of textures in the same way can make your fits more balanced.

My outfit yesterday is an example of me doing this. It’s a faux-tweed jacket that’s actually quite soft as it’s got 10% cashmere, worn with an ancient madder tie and flannel trousers. So I balanced those fuzzy, soft, and chalky textures with smooth broadcloth in the shirt and calf leather for the shoes.

While it’s outfits of excess—loud patterns all combined, or tons of accessories, or extreme tweed combinations—that tend to get the likes and pins, in real life I believe your style should be noticeable for its good proportions, flattering fit, and tasteful combinations of pattern, texture and color. That’s not to say it must be boring. But as my grandpa the upholsterer and interior designer would say, if everything stands out, nothing stands out.

Shop the outfit

Navy textured wool blazer

[option 1] Spier & Mackay herringbone donegal navy blazer

[option 2] Wool blend textured navy blazer by Suit Supply

Flannel trousers: Spier & Mackay light gray VBC twill flannel trousers

Shoes: Beckett & Simonon Durant brown punch-cap “Adelaides” (20% off with code MM20)

Shirt: Spier & Mackay custom shirt in the BLUE PENCIL STRIPE – TESSITURA MONTI – 2 PLY 160’s” fabric

Tie: Brooks Brothers floral neat print tie

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit 😏.  Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

Our kind of elegant autumn 🍂🌳 Soft and intense cotton cashmere azure check Polo-shirt is available in preview www.santillo1970.com . . . #radiciproject #patrimonio1970 #etica #passione #cashmereandcotton #flannel #luckyflannel #classicmenstyle #timeless #elegance #mountain #connoisseur #gentleman #donegal #tweed #silapiccola #creativedirector #gentlemanwardrobe #connoisseur #menwithclass #tradition #values #exclusive #heritage #rakish #luxury #gentlemanwardrobe #sprezzatura #mastershirtmakers #craftmanship #handmadeinitaly https://www.instagram.com/p/B3JrdPLIplu/?igshid=1c4bjm2yewqt1

Introducing Made-To-Measure

I’m glad to announce my new made-to-measure system. It’s the product of a years-long collaborative effort between myself and my friends in Naples. I’m really excited about what we’re able to do together.

My made-to-measure clothing is made in Naples, Italy in the same workshop that finishes my bespoke work. The patterns and style are based on my own cutting preferences, and on the bespoke clothing that I make-- soft shoulders, a little fullness in the chest, and a trim waist.

With a first order we’ll be making a new pattern-- one that’s unique to you. We’ll keep it on hand and update it throughout our working relationship. Custom tailoring made this way has come to be known as bespoke, but I’m going to stick with “made-to-measure” so that things don’t get confusing.

Jacket and vest pictured above are made-to-measure in a Donegal tweed from Magee of Donegal.

Soft donegal tweed

500 g

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Vintage Donegal Ireland Mens SizeHoundstooth Wool Newsboy Cap Hat Earflaps.

Check out this listing I just found on Poshmark: Aran CHUNKY Irish MERINO WOOL Hooded Zip up Coatigan Sweater,XS with measurement.

Some how we missed this beautiful green Donegal Watch Cap called Irish Spring, put this on and you will look so fresh and so clean😜 made from 100% Merino wool washed nice and soft, so no itchy forehead. This is a small batch color as is some of the other colors so don’t hesitate to get an official Irish Donegal Wool Watch Cap made in Queens, NY before they sell out. Each one comes with an Authentic Donegal wool hang tag from the Mill. This is one of the last mills left making this special Tweed Wool in Ireland. Video of the process and unique old world craftsmanship is online, just follow the link. Note link will take you to a different color as Instagram is acting up. https://www.instagram.com/p/CVyTUxRFtOF/?utm_medium=tumblr

It’s Still Cold Out: Bella Spalla “Made in Napoli” Topcoats 

Above: Ben Eng models the Bella Spalla herringbone topcoat outside his London shop, The Wardrobe Wimbledon.

This wool-silk herringbone topcoat from eHaberdasher’s Bella Spalla house line is easily my favorite menswear purchase in 2017. Made in Napoli, the coat features natural shoulders, broad high-gorge lapels, and a barchetta curved breast pocket — all characteristics of Neapolitan tailoring that menswear enthusiasts geek out over.

I originally picked up the coat to keep me warm during a late October stay in Calgary for a wedding. The purchase was carefully considered — eHaberdasher offers the coat in five different fabrics, and I wanted to pick the one that afforded the most versatility on my return to California. That meant passing over an amazing caramel brown Loro Piana cashmere and a more-conventional navy wool-cashmere, the latter being my first instinct.

My eventual choice turned out far better than I could hope for. The charcoal-ash color is conservative enough to be worn with a suit in all but the most formal of settings, while the soft construction and herringbone pattern dress down far more naturally than your typical structured solid navy topcoat. In many ways I find it preferable to it’s nearest sport coat equivalent — the grey tweed jacket — as it brings the flattering lines of a tailored garment to a casual outfit without appearing too studied due to it’s very functional nature as, well, a topcoat.

Over the past fall and winter I’ve worn the coat across the whole casual-formal spectrum of cool-weather clothing and it’s held it’s own: with a navy worsted wool suit, with a checked sport coat, with a merino V-neck and flannel trousers, with a donegal wool crewneck sweater and denim, and yes, even a pair of sweatpants (Karl Lagerfeld of yesteryear would be so disappointed).

The only potential downside I can report is a compromise between pragmatism and stylishness: the middle button point seems a little low for a topcoat. While this allows for a long handsome swoop of the lapels that reveals more shirt and tie, I’m not sure that it’s very helpful for keeping you warm. I personally like it, but it’s understandable if others facing truly frigid temperatures would pass over this coat for something that keeps you a little more covered up.

eHaberdasher’s house label products are almost always a tremendous value at full retail, and the store has the Bella Spalla coats deeply discounted as we enter springtime. There’s some stock for all sizes and colorways, though specific availability for smaller sizes is starting to get thin. If you find something your size in a color you like, I strongly suggest picking it up.

After all, it’s still cold out.

All Bella Spalla coats are currently 30% off at eHaberdasher.