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ivhp41fnv1ao5 · 1 year

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youzicha · 4 years

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Osmazome

I had the idea of going through Project Gutenberg’s collection of old cookbooks to see how they use the word “savoury”. The results are kindof inconclusive, but in the process I came across this intriguing paragraph from 1861:

We have said that gelatine forms the basis of stock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste; and to make the stock savoury, it must contain osmazome. Of this, bones do not contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made entirely of them, is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken or pulverized bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficiently savoury.

Osmazome? Apparently, there was a theory that meat contains a chemical compound that accounts for the taste. It was popularized in The Physiology of Taste (1825):

The greatest service rendered by chemistry to alimentary science is the discovery or even more the exact comprehension of osmazome. Osmazome is that preeminently sapid part of meat which is soluble in cold water, and which differs completely from the extractive part of the meat, which is soluble only in water that is boiling.

It is osmazome which gives all their value to good soups; it is osmazome which, as it browns, makes the savory reddish tinge in sauces and the crisp coating on roasted meat; finally it is from the osmazome that come the special tangy juices of venison and game.

[...] it is to husband this substance, as yet largely unrecognized, that the maxim has been propounded that in order to make a good bouillon the pot must only smile with heat, a truly worthy expression considering the country from which it came.

Osmazome, discovered at last after having for so long delighted our forebears, can be compared with alcohol, which tipsified many generations of men before any of them knew how to strip it naked in the analytical process of distillation in a laboratory.

During the action of boiling water osmazome gives place to what is understood more especially by extractive matter: this last product, reunited with the osmazome, makes up the juice of meat.

The name is coined from Greek osme ‘scent’ + zomos ‘soup’. @quoms talked about the umami-shaped gap left by the transition to a “scientific” understanding of flavor, but maybe if things had gone slightly differently, we would now be discussing how bonito flakes taste osmazomic...

#umami discourse

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