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Combination Stone, Silicone Carbide, 150 x 50 x 25 mm Sharpening Stone Perfect for Both Knives and Tools Knife Sharpener Knife Sharpening Stone

तपाईंको घर मा भएको बिभिन्न किसिम का हतियर हरु मा धार लगाउन,अतिनै उपयोगी अतिनै बलियो ईन्डियामा बनेको धार लगाउने ढुङगा चाहियमा यहाँ क्लिक गर्नुहोस्। नेपाल भरी डेलिभरी गरिने छ २४ घण्टा मा तपाईं को घर मा आई पुग्ने छ सामन लिए पछी पैसा दिए पनि हुन्छ। तुरुन्त अर्डर गर्नुहोस Combination Stone, Sharpening Stone, Knife Sharpener stone, Knife Sharpening Stone, oilstone, sandstone, Knife Sharpening Stones, Sharpener Blade Kit, Polishing Stone for Kitchen, Combination Oilstone,

For years now, I’ve maintained that sewing machine oil is the choice goop for sharpening on oilstones. Cheap, available, light, clean, low odor, etc.; as good on knives as it is on one-off form tools for (e.g.) a lathe. Pretty good on sewing machines, too, as it turns out, which is very convenient — if you ever (e.g.) need to touch up an agéd burnt orange Montgomery Ward and then also, immediately, with minimal change of kit, mis-invest the rest of your evening sharpening every last knife in the house, I suggest you give the stuff a try.

Reparing a Verge Watch

I recently repaired this english verge watch c1800. Like most watches of its age it had a laundry list of problems:

The click in the fusee was worn to the extent that it slipped, causing the cain to come of and quite possibly fly around the watch.

The screw securing the balance cock was missing, the balance was loose in the case. Presumably someone had been in the watch before me and lost it.

The balance staff was bent, see above.

The hairspring was very badly bent, see above.

One of the case hinges had a broken pin, a corresponding dent in the back of the case suggests it was dropped.

A lot of the steel parts had significant rust, including the fusee chain.

The repair is detailed below:

The Click

The hardest part of the repair was making a new click. The worn click was no more than 2mm long in any dimension and made of 0.5mm thick spring steel with a 0.55mm pin protruding from one side. I started with a small piece of 0.6mm spring steel which I drilled a 0.5mm hole in.

I changed the design of the click from the original in a few ways:

Made a notch for the click spring. The click spring had been bent inwards by a previous repairer and I didn't want to bend it back in case it broke by fatigue*.

Added a second tooth, totally unnecessary but there was space, it should last longer and it makes it obvious that its not an original part (I wanted it to be clear to anyone taking apart this watch in future which parts are original and which are replacements).

Increased the length of the 'heel' because there was space.

After shaping the part I enlarged the hole with a broach until a taper pin in it was a good sliding fit with the hole in the fusee.

I filed the pin flush and polished the faces of the teeth with a very fine oilstone. Here is the new click installed with my thumbnail for scale.

The Case Hinge

One half of the broken hinge pin was easy to drive out with a punch but the other half was stuck fast so I dissolved it in alum. I made a replacement pin from short length of spring steel wire shaped into a taper using a file.

The Rest

Everything else was pretty standard watch overhauling and is not that interesting. I have attached a picture of the hairspring before being straightened out just to show how bad it was; it took several hours to get into a useable shape. It is beyond me why anyone would leave the balance cock rattling around in a watch.

The watch now runs although it is currently gaining 10min/hr, probably due to wear on the crown wheel and palates.

*I know I could have annealed it but I wanted to do as little as possible to the watch to preserve it as much as possible.

Japanese plane setup (Wilbur’s version) - V: smooth like butter

There’s one other aspect of sharpening that is in play here. Besides getting the edge to a zero-radius, the surfaces that come to that zero-radius should be as smooth as possible. The good thing here is that any woodworker should be comfortable with that idea for tools, because any woodworker understands using sandpaper to smooth a wood surface by going up through the grits. The same principle applies with sharpening.

At this point, I’m going to stay away from the actual method of sharpening (waterstones, diamond plates, oilstones, Scary Sharp, etc.) because the principles are the same. So for the purposes of this discussion, I’m going to use the term “widget” for the method of sharpening.

To get a better idea of what’s happening, here are some models of an edge tool that should show why getting a smooth surface is important.

This is an edge tool that has been sharpened with a relatively coarse grit widget. The coarse grits leave large scratches in the surface of the bevel and back of the tool.

The surfaces still come to a zero-radius, but this edge is not optimal. The large scratches results in little microteeth. The fact that the scratches don't line up results in a little wavy profile on the edge. And if one of those microteeth break off, or get rolled over, you no longer have a zero-radius edge at that spot.

Now let's move on to a less coarse grit widget, much like you might go from initial sanding at 80 grit to 120 grit.

The surfaces still have scratches, but the scratches are smaller. Again, there’s a zero-radius, but some waviness can be seen. The edge could still be improved. Let's keep going.

Moving to the next higher grit widget continues to improve the edge. Let's keep going.

And here’s the Platonic ideal of a sharp edge — two smooth surfaces, coming together at a zero-radius. This is a sharp edge, making it easy to cut through wood. And this edge will last a long time, as there are no miniature peaks to fail as the tool is used.

In fact, sometimes it's said that there's no use sharpening, say, a chisel to a very fine degree, as the first chop will destroy the edge. This model indicates otherwise — the further you go in sharpening, the more durable the edge will be. My experience tells me the same thing as well.

So that’s the goal.

Counters Intuitive Entries 20-26

Agricultural Planning by @snugz

Phyrexian Oilstone by @piccadilly-blue

Kinderkatch Patrol by @1001gecs

Corrupting Lifestealer by @i-am-the-one-who-wololoes

Akroma, Angelic Avenger by @ozthearistocrat

Wandering Armory by @reaperfromtheabyss

Lesson of Fangs by @real-aspen-hours

Cryovolver by @horsecrash

The litany I began late last night

This is a mental exercise I began late last night to name physical substances, in an attempt to nail myself to the bed:

Opal, fire opal, chalcedony quartz, all the quartzes, rose quartz, quartzite silicon, porphyry, marble, alabaster, nacre black onyx, green onyx, sardonyx spinel, beryl, beryllium, manganese, diamond graphite, ruby, carborundum, emerald, sapphire topaz, bloodstone, green jasper, red jasper aventurine, unikite, amethyst, garnet, feldspar mica, mica schist, granite, andesite, basalt cadmium, liquid nitrogen, frozen hydrogen slush (on Jupiter) magnesium metal, peridot, peridotite, olivine, cinnabar cinnamon, allspice, mace, peppercorn, arsenic flint, jet, jade, obsidian, chert, the death stones carnelian, lapis lazuli, potash, iron, sulfur copper, tin, agate, cats-eyes, coal anthracite, bitumen, peat, loess, loam, humus frass, blue ice, green ice, white ice, powdered ice chitin, lime in megamicro-portions (pounded remains of radiolarian and foraminiferan skeletons and shells of all description) limestone, sandstone, shale, oilstone, emery slate, gneiss, nickel, uranium, polonium lithium, gadolinium, silica sand, alluvial silt, mud brick, adobe, cement, concrete, cast iron, wrought iron, steel aluminium, platinum, gold, silver, cobalt titanium, molybdenum, vanadium, yttrium, erbium hail, snowflakes, frankincense, sandalwood, jute hemp, hashish, kif, lead, butane spiderweb, tornado wreckage. teeth, bone, amber ash, oil, wax, syrup, dust, gels, grit, crumbs, flakes, splinters nails, screws, bolts, rivets, wire frangipani, spikenard, myrrh, ambergris, sea wrack salt, beach glass, oceanic plastic pellets, pollen, zooplankton water vapor, various stenches, sun stroke, blisters, paper wasp hives lint, airborne motes, specks, prions, viruses, cell walls PVC, MSG, LSD, CFC, NSAIDs tar, asphalt, macadam, astroturf gunpowder, nitrogen fertilizer, primacord, shuriken, garrote dirt, detritus, dung, clay, ocher, methylene blue mercury, tantalum, niobium, bezoars bromine, permanganate, dead leaves, dead grass hay, straw, osier, duck tape, scotch tape bullwhip, horsehide, dog fur, cat dander, roach eggs patina, rain, smog, near-vacuum, thermal inversion sound ticks, sound blasts, sonic booms, thunder, throbs

breath breath breath breath breath breath

Knowledge of Cutting Tools: Drill Technology _ Machining

Package the marked drill bit, and then del out on the CNC grinding machine, and the programming is divided into two steps of rough and fine machining as far as possible, so as to avoid the existence of potential thermal cracks caused by too much grinding, dhd drill bit , which will affect the service life of the tool. Use the material tray with reasonable design to carry out the handling of cutting tools, so as to avoid the damage to the cutting edge caused by the collision between cutting tools. The blackened diamond grinding wheel should be sharpened with oilstone in time. Note: The processing technology is different according to the processed material/equipment/working condition. The above process arrangement only represents the author's personal opinion and is only used for technical exchange. 2. Bit Material 2.1 High speed steel High speed steel (HSS) is a kind of tool steel with high hardness, high wear resistance and high heat resistance, also known as high speed tool steel or sharp steel, commonly known as white steel. High speed steel cutting tool is a tool that is tougher and easier to cut than ordinary t? The cycle of changing tools . 2. Perfect installation and fixation For example, increase the support area, increase the clamping force. 3. Check the main shaft bearing and sliding groove . 4. Use high precision tool holder ,Borehole Drill Bits, such as a hydraulic tool holder. 5. Use a more ductile material . Copyright notice: Because some of the articles are from the Internet, and some of the articles are pushed without timely contact with the original author. If the above copyright issues are involved, please contact us to delete or deal with the original author. Return to Sohu to see more Responsible Editor:. wt-dthtools.com

Lot of sawdust today, none of it from a guitar. See, the other side gate was, we discovered, coming apart. I did some fettling, and now it's good for several years thanks to nice deck screws. Then I had to make a mount for the kid's Pinewood Derby car, which I whipped up from a little live edge basswood plank I had laying around. Basswood smells almost cake-like, very unlike the woods I'm used to. That also gave me the chance to finish up a rehab; I needed a marking knife, and there was a decent one in the rehab drawer with edges like a baseball bat. So that got some love from the oilstone, and now it's nice and sharp.

Swipes tool

The pricier WS3000 is better than the WS2000 because it comes with an additional port for chisel and iron tools. This system also comes with an integrated ceramic-oxide hence you don’t just sharpen your tool, you also remove burrs from the edge of the tool. One of its advantage though as a hybrid sharpening system is its water-coolant system. This system is a combination of Scary Sharp and Motorized Sharpening System. The Work-Sharp Sharpening System is a new system introduced in the woodworking world. This means every time you are sharpening your tool, your Water-Cool Sharpening System is only removing a minimal amount of material from your tools. Furthermore, it can be used to sharpen different woodworking accessories without affecting the geometrical cut of the tool. This machine can be used to sharpen skews, gouges, and chisels without changing the bevel angle.įor its price, this system is very competitive in the market. Water-cooled sharpening system is one of the most popular sharpening system known today because of its reliability and flexibility. Scary sharp system is one of the cheapest sharpening options out there. You can either use wet or dry sandpaper and some lubricants to start sharpening your tool. It is scary sharp because it can really make your tool ‘ scary sharp’. #3: Scary Sharp SystemĪ scary sharp system uses sandpaper to sharpen tools. With slower speed, a motorized system can make the sharpening process easier to control and safer. Over-heating when sharpening tools can affect the hardness of a tool. Unlike a bench grinder, the motorized system works more slowly and doesn’t cause overheating. This is the most costly among all sharpening systems. Professional woodworkers who love investing with their tools often purchase a motorized sharpening system to keep their tools in condition. Despite having an abrasive material when used, Benchstone remains to be one of the most popular sharpening systems in the woodworking world today. This type of sharpening system is very popular because of its ease of use. There are three types of sharpening stones called diamond stones, water stones, and oilstones. #1: Venerable Benchstone Systemīenchstone is a traditional stone sharpening tool. Here are some of the sharpening systems that you can consider. Don’t just purchase a sharpening tool because it might not work well with your tools. Top Five Sharpening SystemsĬhoosing a sharpening system to use depends on the woodworking tools you have. Using sharper tools can also mean that you can finish your job faster. When cutting, it can give you cleaner cuts. If you are sanding, it will leave a smoother surface. They cut faster and doesn’t cause resistance. Properly maintained and sharpened tools are easier to use. Most woodworkers will tell you this – you don’t need expensive and amazing tools – you only sharp ones! Why Sharpen Your Tools? Aside from skills, woodworkers need a properly maintained and sharpened hand tools in order to produce beautiful wood crafts.

ceramic foam filter plates, foam ceramic filters, porous ceramic filter, water-absorbing ceramics

White corundum wear-resistant powder is made of industrial alumina as raw material and is refined and crystallized by electrofusion. High efficiency, acid and alkali corrosion resistance, high-temperature resistance and good thermal stability. Mainly used for sandblasting, grinding and polishing ceramic products, paint, oilstone, grinding stone, sharpening stone, abrasive tool, ceramic film grinding disc, etc.

The main use of white corundum wear-resistant powder

1. Refractory materials, charge, castables, ramming materials, refractory bricks, casting, etc.; sandblasting machine sandblasting, semiconductor sandblasting, silicon wafer sandblasting, circuit board sandblasting, surface treatment, rust removal, Sandblasting air-conditioning equipment, mobile phone shell sandblasting, kitchenware sandblasting, tungsten, molybdenum, titanium and other rare metal products such as cemented carbide sandblasting, etc.; cosmetic industry cosmetics, beauty crafts manufacturing, microdermabrasion, etc., ceramic products, grinding, polishing, chamfering, etc. wait;

2. Production of welding materials, hardware, titanium alloy glasses frames, sandblasting, grinding and polishing, ceramic glaze, epoxy sand, wear-resistant floor coatings, powder coatings, environmental protection coatings, anti-corrosion coatings, wear-resistant floor coatings additives, etc., whetstone, grinding stone, whetstone, and other products production;

3. Polishing wax, polishing liquid, polishing paste, etc., buttons, mobile phone cases, polishing abrasives such as silver sticks, abrasives, and other abrasive media, floors, adhesives, electronic glue, FRP wear-resistant plates, FRP surface finish, etc., production of ceramic foam filter plates, foam ceramic filters, porous ceramic filter, water-absorbing ceramics, filter ceramics, honeycomb ceramics, etc.

4. Ceramic separation membrane/ceramic membrane/ceramic flat membrane/flat ceramic membrane/tubular ceramic membrane/filter membrane/membrane module, diamond grinding wheel, etc., silicon wafer, diamond tool dry/water grinding sheet, resin grinding sheet, resin gel coat, production of wear-resistant layers of insulating boards, etc., production of stone polishing wheels, etc. / polishing stone, pebbles, marble, granite, jewelry agate, etc.

Was just gifted this oil stone from a customer , he is 77 yrs old and said that this stone belonged to his grandfather ! A wonderful gift and much appreciated ! #oilstone #artstudio #bcfirstnations #westcoastnativeart #britishcolumbia #canada #vancouverbc #washitaoilstone https://www.instagram.com/p/Bwpo7-eAblI/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=15rf1stiacq0t

My Gavox Ultima Necat at #balasagun in #khyrghystan. A old City from X to XII era with only the tower left the king built for his beloved daughter. #burana #gavox #watchfam #wristwatch #powerreserve #stone #oilstone (at Burana Tower) https://www.instagram.com/p/B2GUyu4oykr/?igshid=dpi66ivb7cbz

Untitled Wednesday Library Series, Part 81

I’m writing tonight from beside a stack of heretofore firmly packed away things — my oilstones and some ancillary lathe tooling — which should be appearing in long-promised posts soon. My head’s been miles away from the usual coffee-, plant-, and writingposting these last couple months, but I’m trying to keep pace with my own maladaptive expectation where possible. Closing in on closing out some of last year’s prose ideas, and anyway, I guess a Theophrastus UWLS entry is vaguely botanical. The brand must be upheld or something. I don’t know what you all read me for, but I’ll damn well keep guessing wildly so long as it’s even vaguely fun.

But Theophrastus, yeah? Wrote both Enquiry into and Causes of Plants, plus some other stuff. Peripatetic, successor of Aristotle at the Lyceum, purported father of botany, so on and etc. Translated by lots of people into lots of languages for a lot of years running, including the aptly named Arthur F. Hort in these volumes, which are mostly Enquiry ‘and minor works on odours and weather signs’.

The Loeb collection is/was a Harvard Press line in collaboration with London’s William Heinemann Ltd. This set was first offering in 1926, but got several reprints over many decades and outlasted lots of editors. My pair is of mixed vintage, but we’ll save that for The Object.

The How

If you’re interested (like I am, for some reason) in botany largely as a futile but crunchy taxonomical-phylogenetic problem, Theophrastus is unavoidable. At minimum he’s etymologically unavoidable — he’s the earliest source we have for a heap of plant names; Linnaeus appealed to his vocabulary pretty constantly and you don’t quickly outgrow roots like those — but that doesn’t even touch the biogeographical or linguistic or philosophical or systematic kick these books imparted to botanical science per se.

That’s a long way of saying I thought I should poke at them cautiously, maybe, and found some copies used online.

The Text

Hort’s translation is the earliest complete English rendering I’m aware of. I presume it’s fine, but despite myself I have practically no Greek. A project Hort set for himself, for better or worse, was guessing about the identities of every plant referenced in the text, spare only the longest shots. Many of his conclusions are either questionable or outright conflict with more recent readings, but it’s a noble effort. Brave, sure, and arrogant, but noble. Usually works OK.

This printing is bilingual, which is perfect for pulling down references, and very closely obeys the original text’s organization. More closely even than its own pagination, actually; the index gives locations in book-section-paragraph rather than absolute number.

For a guy who had doubts about how to talk about plants and even about how they worked, Theophrastus had a lot to say about the things. Some anatomy, some geography, occasional rough ethnobotany, etymologies, horticultural tips, the works. Several layers of hearsay are usually afoot, as you’d expect — ‘about the oak accounts differ’ and so on — but that’s kinda fun. Books 1–5 contain some general points and then a workup of trees, and 6–9 runs from under-shrubs to herbs and then digresses about juices (pitch, myrrh, resins and extracts) and medicinal applications.

Nicely arranged; big fan of weildy paragraphs.

The Object

My second volume is a 1977 printing from the UK. The first one is an undated edition from the Maple-Vail Book Manufacturing Group out of York, Pennsylvania. It’s more recent — acid-free paper, much better condition, some tweaks to the presentation — but contains no dates other than an unhelpful (erroneous?) ‘First published 1916’.

To my eyes the Greek type is slightly worse overall than the English, and the Maple-Vail copy worse than the older one. My eyes are right on both counts; these are nice to look at and good to handle but a little tiresome to really inspect, if you get what I mean.

The Why, Though?

I kind of already said, but I made an omission. I could find the text itself online if I needed, but this particular preparation contains Hort’s decision that κάκτος maps to ‘cardoon’, which, hmm. Either he was wrong, lots of other seminal botanical writers were wrong, or, more likely, they all are.

Also this is the reference to silphium, which is another huge question mark in antique studies and goddamnit if that’s not tantalizing.

Because I haven’t hit my image limit for once, some pictures from the back shelves. Wild cardoon Cynara cardunculus and some giant fennel Ferula communis, one candidate for silphium, in (modern) habitat vaguely near where some of this book can be traced to.

So, instead of removing the blades from the Delta 654 jointer I did a little tune-up on them in place. They weren't chipped or dulled enough to warrant regrinding them. So I pulled out a small piece of oil-stone and went to work on them. After honing them back to a sharp edge I did a few test cuts. The results were quite impressive! Even with the squirrelly grain at its end this piece came out glass smooth! It's hard to beat good quality steel! #deltamilwaukee #delta37-595 #delta654jointer #vintagemachinery #vintagewoodworkingtools #oldschoolpowertools #deltacombomachine #woodworking #woodworker #sharpening #oilstone #jointerknives #razorsharp (at Screven, Georgia) https://www.instagram.com/p/B1Cyw5YF993/?igshid=k5vi9tzctw7i

Back in the shop after a few days in Colorado. Going to be a fun week! Might see @majidaq this weekend 😊 #wood #woodworking #makeyourowntools #oilstone #kerosene #workslow #getzen