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Hi airbrush anon here from waaaaaaay back. I asked if anyone knew resin friendly sealants and varnishes I could use with my airbrush, that weren't toxic, and water soluble. I took one of the recommendations of looking at a youtuber doll artist, who used both liquitex varnish, and primer, which are an orange, and green bottle respectively. I thought I'd update my journey, so:

The green bottle: Best for texture in my opinion. It gives the strongest texture, and keeps the pigments better. But is also more prone to holding onto pigment, like pastels, so try to have clean hands, it's not forgiving. It's hard to remove, without hard erasing, at which point you probably are just removing the sealant. I think you can thin it out to lessen that bite though. If you only get one of the bottles, I'd say take the green one. the orange bottle: Not the best texturing for certain work, unless you're only working with gouache, or paints. But if you mix if with the green bottle, you get a softer texture, which helps in giving a slightly less grippy texture. It's honestly really great to mix with the green, in any parts you prefer for texturing, and just

I kinda mix them with water as I feel is needed, I've been mostly doing a few layers before starting, and then one or two layers after each point in the face-up. DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH! Even if you're only leaving the sealer to dry, takes less than 30min, you really should dump the mix every time you wait. I had to find out the hard way it slowly dries in layers, until the airbrush gets clogged. I fixed it easily though. The clog was in the tiny nozzletip, which I had to clean with paint thinner, and a syringe to blow clean water through. FYI It can be cleaned, but it's just a hassle to unscrew, and clean the entire airbrush for such a small mistake. Recommended to not waste any of the mix: Use small jar with lid, and pre-mix the mixture in there, and use a dropper, or syringe to add the sealer. I dump it back in the jar after each coating, and then clean the airbrush with some water. Also, mix it up before use, because the "gritty" texture stuff sinks to the bottom of the jar after some hours.

Big pro of the liquitex is that it's cheap, and easy to use with the airbrush. You can even use a brush to simply add to smaller areas that need it, so you don't have to seal the entire head if you just wanna seal some of the lips. I noticed that I need to barely wet the brush, and be careful not to smear it with the brush directly. You don't need make it super thinned down for small areas, a drop of sealer and a drop of water work well for small brushes. You can also remove spots of the sealant without it leaving behind the white residue it does with other sealants like MSC, though you gotta experiment with your tools. I use a q-tip with water, and rub it off, and then clean the area of any fuzzies. You can also do it when it's relatively humid, since it's already water based, so I've personally not noticed any problems. I've layered on paints, gouache, and acrylics, and none have stained yet. The longest I've had paint on a head using this sealant was a few months, and there was no staining when I cleaned it off. Dries quickly, and without odour. Easy to remove. If you haven't sealed it with a sealant like MSC, you can actually drop the head in some water, and it's dissolve, and it's easier to clean off. It's also really quick to clean with stuff like isopropyl alcohol. Washable, so no worries if it touches cloth.

Big con of the liquitex is that it actually does dissolve in water, so if you leave it wet, or moist, it can penetrate through the layers, and smear, or ruin the face-up in other ways, because it dissolves. Gouache for example, isn't protected by this sealant at all, and it will smear when water is added and rubed. So you either do any painting at the end, or you use a different varnish as a middle layer, like MSC, or similar. It's not as dangerous to just pastel, but can also smear them if left wet for too long. To put it into more direct terms, doesn't actually seal the paint, as much as it layers on texture each time, is what I'd say. Some times a layer seems to result in an almost "scaley" looking texture, I'd recommend to be careful, though still better than the snowflake white residue from spray can varnishes. I'm not yet sure what causes the scaliness, since I've applied thicker, and thinner layers, and it just happens on occasion. My best guess is maybe it's caused by how I mixed it, how watery, or thick, and maybe layering another layer on a not completely dried area.

Neutral comment, I wouldn't recommend using it just applied with a brush. I haven't tried it directly on a head yet, but in order to use it, it has to be thinned, or it's just too thick. If you thin it, and try to apply it with a big brush, I don't think it'll have the same end result as using an airbrush. I still use the Mr Superclear for the final two or three layers, since it really seals it in, with no worries of water ruining the face-up. So having a can or two is at least somewhat handy. Which is still much better than needing to use it for the entire process.

~Anonymous

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