Rabbit Care.
08152019
Diagnosed with Intermittent Soft Cecotropes. Thinning fur patches on Mopsy’s backside.
Treatment: all hay/grass diet 2 weeks - 3 months until stools return to normal. No treats.
Personal treatment plan:
DAILY
Change the litter box in the morning and evening. Extra hay.
Change the water twice a day.
Fresh cut grass every morning. Use scissors.
No fruit. ½ cup veg fed from hand every evening.
MORNING
Change litter boxes, freshwater, measure pellets/oats
Cleanup poops. Remove soiled linens.
AFTERNOON
Pickup each rabbit and bring outside. Brush out fur.
Wipe fur with a damp cloth; Starting with eyes, body, feet, bum
EVENING
Change litter boxes. Freshwater. Fresh grass.
Cleanup poops.
Sit on the floor with my book and pyjamas.
SLOWLY INTRODUCE ADDITIONAL FOODS BACK INTO RABBIT’S DIET AFTER 1 WEEK OR POOPS LOOK NORMAL AGAIN.
STEP 1: Hand-feed ¼ cup dark, leafy greens. (parsley, cilantro, romaine, green leaf).
Then ½ cup, 1 cup, 2 cups.
STEP 2: 2 tbsp, hand-fed treats per day (apple, berries, banana, etc)
STEP 3: ¼ cup pellets; ¼ cup oats every morning.
* Start rabbit garden. Grow grass in our home. Purchase AeroGarden and pods.
SPAYING and RECOVERY
Supplies: X-pen, easy access litter box, critical care, cones, oral syringes, PAIN MEDICINE post-op, warm water bottle/heat pad
Road Trip to the Vet: Sit in the back seat with bunnies, bring cage for at the vet office, purchase a bag of nice Oxbow hay, water bottle, water dish, pellets, cilantro/parsley, blankets, towels, puppy pads, carry rabbits into the office - minimize stress!
Recovery Post-Op: clean x-pen set-up with white towels/blankets, clean litter boxes 2x/daily, clean water 2x daily,
**Rabbit Savvy Vet**
https://rabbitrescue.ca/useful-info/vets/
Rabbits should always have an annual exam, which will help detect problems early.
Why: Not all vets treat rabbits. Not all vets that treat rabbits KNOW rabbits! Many vets are trained in cat and dog medicine and often do not know enough about rabbits to medically treat them properly.
When: It is always a good idea to find a vet you feel comfortable with BEFORE you have an emergency. Rabbits should always have an annual exam that can help detect problems early.
How: We offer some recommended vets here. You might also want to check www.vetratingz.com. Next check the yellow pages for veterinarians who advertise as “exotic” (includes, rabbits & rodents). The next step is to phone the vet. Let the front office person know that you are concerned with finding the very best veterinarian to care for your rabbit and that you would like to speak directly to the doctor at his/her convenience. Leave both your work and home phone number and specific times that the veterinarian can get hold of you or ask what would be a good time for you to call back (when the veterinarian is between appointments).
Emergencies: You need to be prepared for emergency situations at night and on weekends when your regular vet might not be at the clinic. This preparation starts with your regular veterinarian. What are the days and hours of operation? Some veterinarians keep extended hours on certain weekdays. Does your veterinarian refer to a certain emergency clinic? If your veterinarian works with many non-traditional animal species he/she will probably know which emergency facility in your area also treats these animals.
If you will have to go to another location with an out-of-hours rabbit emergency, have the name, address, phone number and directions posted prominently in your house. Make a trial run by driving to the facility at least once so you have an approximate idea of how long it will take you.
Ask lots of questions!
How many rabbits are seen each week? Rabbits should make up a reasonable size of their practice (ie at least 10%)
How many rabbits are spayed/neutered each week?
Do they fast rabbits before surgery? The answer should be NO! Anesthetic meds cause nausea BUT rabbits lack the vomit reflex. Fasting is unnecessary and very dangerous. Eat before and after surgery. Lots of hay, cilantro, and green leaf lettuce; Clean fresh grass and dandelion leaves.
Do they know what drugs are dangerous for rabbits? IE Amoxicillin, Penicillin – unless it is injectible.
What type of gas anesthetic do they use? Isoflurane is the only safe bunny gas
Have you lost any rabbits during routine surgeries?
How would you treat a hairball? Surgery should be the very very last alternative.
Are there other veterinarians in the practice that can treat your rabbit in case the primary vet is not available? And if not, then to whom do they refer these cases?
Does the vet refer difficult cases to anyone else?
How does the vet check molars? An otoscope or a videoscope is the only acceptable answer. Visual inspection is not enough.
Hello, I am located in 100 Mile House. I have 2 female rabbits and I am unsure of their age. I want to get them spayed. I am searching for a rabbit savvy vet to take care of them. They are a huge part of my life and contribute to my overall happiness. I would not leave them overnight. I need a trustworthy and careful vet to spay my girls. How much does it cost to have 2 adult rabbits spayed, including an exam, pain meds, and possible cones to go home with? My bunnies' names are Flopsy and Mopsy. Flopsy is a Dutch breed and Mopsy is a Holland Lop (I am fairly sure of the breeds). They are (mostly) litter trained, minus a few territorial droppings. They are in good health, eating lots of fresh hay all day. I feed them 1/4 cup pellets to share every day and 2 servings of leafy greens. A month ago I noticed loose stools and proceeded to put them on a hay-only diet and it seems to have fixed the issue. My bunnies are mostly okay with being handled but lived most of their lives in abysmal conditions. They now live in my living room, no cage. I am concerned about their stress level with the procedure and the car ride home. I have gotten them a bit used to car rides in order to minimize the stress for their upcoming surgeries. I know I have spoken in length but I am concerned about losing a rabbit. I need to know they are in caring, educated, and experienced veterinary hands. Thank you. -- Victoria Smith 778-239-8688.
List of Rabbit Savvy Vets
Dr. Mike Lavroff and Dr. Kathy Rasmussen at Vetcetera Pet Hospital in Kelowna, BC
250-762-7181
(250) 371-3236
SPAYING PROCEDURAL NOTES:
Pre- and Post-operative care of Rabbits
Dana Krempels, Ph.D.
University of Miami Department of Biology (updated 3 January 2011)
Any surgery can be physically and emotionally hard on both you and your companion rabbit since there's really no such thing as a surgery that is 100% risk-free. I hope the following information will help you and your rabbit get through either emergency or elective surgery with maximal safety and minimal stress.
Pre-operative Care
1. Be sure to schedule surgery with a veterinarian who is very familiar with the rabbit's unique anatomy and physiology, and who has had a great deal of experience and success with rabbit anesthesia and surgery. You might wish to start with the House Rabbit Society veterinary listings at the House Rabbit Society Veterinarian Listings. Veterinarians specializing in "exotic" species are often rabbit-savvy. But before you commit to surgery, make sure. The House Rabbit Society has an excellent site on how to find a good rabbit vet that should make this easy.
2. If possible, schedule the surgery so that you can bring your bunny home with you the same evening. Spending the night in an unfamiliar place, surrounded by strange people and the sound and smell of potential predators, can add unnecessary stress and lengthen your rabbit's recovery. Very few veterinary hospitals have 24-hour monitoring staff, and your bunny will probably not be watched for at least part of the night if s/he stays in the hospital. Home, where he can be monitored lovingly and regularly, is almost always best.
3. If your rabbit is bonded to another rabbit, it is important to bring them to the hospital together so that the mate can offer moral support in the pre-operative waiting period and during recovery. It also will help prevent the dreaded un-bonding phenomenon that sometimes occurs when one member of a bonded pair comes home smelling of Strange and Scary Hospital. The last thing you want your bunny to suffer after surgery is violent rejection by his/her own mate! Unfortunately, this goes for bonded groups, too. It is best to bring everyone in for moral support and to prevent post-operative social rejection.
4. DO NOT FAST YOUR RABBIT PRIOR TO THE SURGICAL APPOINTMENT, even if the person scheduling your appointment tells you to do so. (Receptionists giving such instructions often recite the rules for dogs and cats, not realizing that the rules are different for rabbits.) Here are the reasons why some (inexperienced with rabbits) clinic staff might suggest fasting, and why these reasons do not hold true for rabbits:
a. Some surgical anesthetics can cause nausea. One of the reasons veterinarians fast most animals pre-operatively is the risk of vomiting during surgery or recovery. This can cause accidental aspiration, the breathing of liquid into the lungs, which can be fatal. However, rabbits lack the vomiting reflex and are physically almost incapable of regurgitation. In rabbits, the risk of aspiration due to vomiting is negligible.
b. Feeding your bunny before surgery helps the gastrointestinal (GI) tract remain active, which will speed recovery. Rabbits who become inappetence (i.e., not wanting to eat) after surgery are more difficult to "jump-start" back to normal eating habits. Even relatively brief periods (24 hours) of anorexia can result in GI stasis and some liver damage in rabbits.
c. Some veterinarians may be concerned that food in the intestine will interfere with their obtaining a correct body weight, necessary for calculating the proper dose of injected anesthetic. This should not be a concern with rabbits because
Under normal circumstances, the intestine of a healthy rabbit is never empty, and should not be. Rabbit GI passage time is relatively lengthy (approximately 12 hours), so to get the intestine completely empty would take a very long time. Also, since an anorectic rabbit can begin to suffer liver damage in a relatively short time when the GI tract is empty, it is not advisable to fast the rabbit before surgery.
If the veterinarian is using isoflurane or sevoflurane, the gas anesthetic of choice, bodyweight is not an issue, since the gas is administered through the respiratory tract. Even though isoflurane gas is more expensive than injectable anesthetics, it is worth the extra cost to ensure safer surgery and faster recovery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Although intubation allows much more precise administration and monitoring of gas anesthesia, and is safer in case of an emergency cardiac or respiratory arrest during surgery, please be aware that the intubation of rabbits is a delicate procedure requiring a great deal of practice and expertise. If your vet is NOT experienced with rabbit intubations, it is probably much safer for the isoflurane to be administered via a mask. You might wish to ask your vet about this before you schedule the surgery.
Injectable pre-anesthetic doses are not likely to be affected by the slight difference in the weight of a rabbit with a full intestine.
5. Take a bit of your rabbit's normal food (pellets and hay) along as well as a small bag of favourite fresh herbs. Ask that the foods be offered to your bunny after the anesthesia has worn off. The sooner the bunny starts nibbling after surgery, the quicker the recovery.
Post-surgical Care
Pain Management
Any surgery, including neuter or (especially) a spay, will make bunny sore for one to several days.
Pain management in rabbits is critical to an uneventful recovery.
Most experienced vets routinely administer analgesics such as Metacam/meloxicam, Banamine (flunixin meglumine), buprenorphine, tramadol, etc. before or shortly after surgery, so the bunny will be as comfortable as possible while waking up.
Ask the veterinarian about this before scheduling surgery. If no pain medications are going to be given to your rabbit, you should probably seek a different vet!
Before bringing your bunny home, ask your vet about follow-up pain management at home, when the initial dose wears off.
Post-surgical monitoring and care
1. Warmth
Immediately after surgery, keep your bunny warm and quiet.
Provide a warm water bottle or another heat source (that can't leak, burn, or cause injury) wrapped in a soft towel for the bunny to lean against or move away from, at his/her discretion. DO NOT use any type of electrical heating source that could be an electrocution risk, should bunny chew on it!
Rabbits will tolerate a soft, light blanket better than a heavy one.
2. Post-surgical Contact and Handling
Don't hover. A bunny after surgery may feel groggy and unhappy, and not in the mood for cuddling.
Unless you know that your rabbit wants to cuddle, it's best to let him/her recover quietly and without more human interruption than is necessary to ensure that all is well.
3. Post-surgical Monitoring for Trouble
Be sure to carefully (and gently) check the sutures daily for a few days after surgery to be sure the bunny isn't chewing them.
Many vets use subcuticular (under the skin) sutures that cannot be chewed out, and may even put a line of surgical glue over the incision for extra strength. Ask your vet about this before surgery, so you will know what to expect.
Be alert for excessive bleeding (a bit of oozing is not unusual, but outright bleeding is a cause for concern)
Excessive redness or signs of infection such as swelling or pus are not normal.
If you see anything that causes concern, call the vet immediately for further instructions.
The Healing Process
If all goes well, your bunny will start to perk up noticeably by the second day after surgery. Healing begins quickly; adhesions (normal tissue repair) usually start to form within 24 hours of surgery in rabbits. In the case of spay/neuter, a male will usually recover more quickly, since neuter is less invasive than a spay.
A male is usually ready for normal activity within a few days of surgery.
A female might take a bit longer to recover from a spay.
Recovery time will depend on the type of surgery, the surgeon's technique, the surgery itself, and any complications.
1. Post-operative Preventive Care
Under normal circumstances, rabbits do not require post-surgical antibiotics to prevent infection.
Except in very unusual cases, an E-collar ("Elizabethan collar" -- that plastic cone around the neck that prevents suture chewing and makes your companion look like a satellite dish) is not necessary for a rabbit and will cause more stress than it's worth.
If your bunny does try to damage her incision and ends up wearing an E-collar for a day or two, you will have to hand-feed cecotropes, since s/he will not be able to reach them for normal ingestion.
This is how much we love our bunnies.
2. Monitoring the Poop: Signs of Recovery or Trouble
It is not unusual to see a few soft or mucus-covered stools after surgery. Fecal pellets should return to normal within a day or two, once your bunny has regained normal eating habits.
If you continue to see mucus in the fecal matter beyond a day or two, or if fecal production stops, consult your veterinarian immediately.
If your rabbit hasn't eaten anything within 24 hours of surgery, contact your veterinarian.
Monitor the output of fecal pellets closely. If fecal output slows or stops after surgery for more than 36 hours, your bunny may be suffering from ileus, an uncommon but serious post-surgical complication. If this happens, refer to Gastrointestinal Stasis: The Silent Killer for emergency information.
Post-surgical Social Interaction
Keep your rabbit quiet for a few days after surgery, but try to maintain normal feeding and bonding times.
There is no reason to separate bonded pairs or groups as long as the bunnies interact calmly.
A post-surgical bunny will usually manage his/her own activity quite well and knows not to "push it" too soon.
If your bonded pair continues to mount or play too roughly after surgery, then it might be necessary to physically separate them for a day or two to avoid injury. This is almost never necessary.
However, if you must separate the bunnies, be sure they can see, smell, and touch one another even if they don't have full physical contact.
Remember: the rabbit who has undergone surgery needs the emotional support of his/her mate for an uneventful recovery. Allowing them to be in contact reduces the chances that they will fight upon full re-introduction.
Post-surgical Nutrition
Offer your rabbit a heavy ceramic bowl of water, even if you usually provide a sipper bottle. A rabbit needs to drink after surgery but often won't do so if s/he has to "work" for water. A well-hydrated bunny recovers more quickly and feels better in the process.
If your bunny is reluctant to eat after surgery, offer a favourite treat. Fragrant herbs such as basil, parsley, dill and mint seem to appeal to a bunny recovering from surgery.
Rabbits seem to prefer healthy foods such as fresh greens and hay while they are recovering, rather than starchy treats, which is all for the better.
If your bunny does suffer complications from surgery that cause him to stop eating, you may need to hand-feed for a few days afterwards to help get the GI tract back to normal. Ask your veterinarian for advice about whether this is necessary. Products made specifically for recovery feeding include Critical Care (Oxbow Hay Company) and Critter be Better (American Pet Diner). Or you can make your own recovery food: Pour warm water or chamomile tea over a 1/4 cup of pellets in a bowl
Allow to sit for about five minutes, letting the pellets "fluff"
Add additional water or chamomile tea and mix well to make a pudding-like slurry
Always use any type of recovery food "slurry" with caution:
Never force too much. Allow bunny time to chew and swallow.
Use a wide-bore syringe or plastic dropper with the narrow tip cut off to safely administer
If the tip is too narrow, larger bits can get stuck. Forcing a stuck chunk through the tip can cause a huge blob of food to enter the mouth too quickly, and could cause aspiration.
Squirt the food into the mouth sideways, behind the incisors, not straight back.
NEVER try to force-feed an animal who is not swallowing normally. Consult your veterinarian immediately if this is the case.
Special Notes for Neuter Surgeries
The de-sexing of a male animal is known as castration or neuter. It involves removing the testicles and some associated structures. (Some tubules and other structures are left behind, as they are located in the lower abdomen.) The purpose of neutering is to remove the main source of testosterone and to permanently stop the production of sperm. While testosterone has its subjective benefits, it also has its risks: it suppresses the immune system, increases aggression, and generally shortens the lifespan of the individual producing it. For this reason alone, your male bunny may live a longer, more peaceful life if he is neutered.
Although most rabbit-savvy vets perform pre-scrotal neuters, in which the scrotum is not cut, a few old-fashioned practitioners still remove the testicles directly through the scrotum. If your male bunny has undergone scrotal neuter, he may be very sore and swollen (which is why the pre-scrotal method is preferred; ask your vet beforehand, so you will know what to expect.)
A sitz bath in a dilute solution of betadine (about 1 tablespoon of povidone iodine per cup of lukewarm water) can be very soothing to a bunny who has undergone a scrotal neuter. But wait until a day after surgery to do this, to allow some recovery from anesthesia and the stress of the surgery itself.
NOTE THAT MALES MAY HAVE VIABLE SPERM FOR SEVERAL WEEKS POST-NEUTERING! Do not place your male with an intact female until a minimum of three weeks after his neuter surgery! Some males can retain viable sperm for even longer.
Click here for a complete technical overview of rabbit spay and neuter procedures provided by DVM Newsmagazine.
Return to Rabbit Health Central
Help H.A.R.E. rescue needy rabbits!
https://rabbit.org/intermittent-soft-cecotropes-in-rabbits/
Notes:
The condition can last for months or even years. Affected rabbits are often still bright, alert and eating well. The soft droppings stick to the rabbit’s hindquarters, causing irritation and a foul odor. Defecation and urination can be hindered if there is sufficient buildup of feces.
The soft stools are actually malformed cecotropes that should have been eaten directly from the anus by the rabbit. You will notice that the soft cecotropes have a strong odor and contain mucous like normal cecotropes. When the contents of the cecum are retained for longer than normal periods of time the cecotropes are eventually excreted in a more liquid state and it is impossible for the rabbit to eat them. Not only is the condition messy, but there is a concern that the rabbit may be missing vital nutrition if he cannot eat the cecotropes.
The most common cause of ISC is an inappropriate diet that is too high in carbohydrates and/or too low in indigestible fiber.
During a physical examination, many rabbits with ISS are significantly overweight with obvious fecal staining of the hindquarters or feet.
The treatment of uncomplicated ISC (meaning the cause is primarily an inappropriate diet) is based on converting the rabbit to a healthy diet that is high in indigestible fiber, which normalizes the motility of the GI tract and lower in carbohydrates, which helps normalize the flora in the cecum. A healthy diet for a house rabbit consists of unlimited grass hay as its primary component with additional green foods and limited high fiber/low energy pellets.
This is not a difficult diet to feed, but it requires a commitment to removing high carbohydrate foods from the diet and never giving them again. If you do choose to slip some high carbohydrate treats to your pet from time to time, it is highly likely that the ISC will return within a short time and you will be cleaning the rabbit and cage all over again. The benefits of a healthy diet are not only getting rid of the ISC, but also improving your rabbit’s dental, GI and mental health. Only you have control over the success of this treatment.
The treatment of ISC is based first on a serious diet restriction to grass hay, which acts to return the GI tract to normal, and secondly a gradual reintroduction of additional foods after normal cecotropes are produced for at least a week. This would mean you are no longer seeing the soft cecotropes in the environment or on the rabbit. You will see the normal round, dry waste droppings and only the occasional formed cecotrope in the litter box or cage floor.
The hay acts to return normal motility to the GI tract and normal flora to the cecum eliminating the soft stools entirely. If you cheat and feed treats during this process, the treatment will not be effective and you will only perpetuate the problem. There is no doubt that your rabbit will not be happy with you for a while and will probably throw a few tantrums. After all, when you remove the pellets and treats from the diet, it is like taking chocolate away from a chocoholic! You need to resist your pet’s attempts to manipulate your emotions and remember that this treatment is for her benefit and for your benefit as well when you have the freedom from cleaning up the mess every day!
Another important benefit of feeding the grass hay to the exclusion of other foods initially is that your pet will experience a healthy weight loss. Many rabbits with ISC are overweight, and not only do they feel sluggish because of the GI problems but because of their weight it is more difficult for them to exercise. Rabbits do not become underweight on this diet so you do not need to monitor the weight. Many of our clients comment that after the treatment for ISS their rabbit experienced a new “lease on life” and was as active as a young bunny again! It must feel good to shed the excess weight and to have normal GI function again!
NOTE: How do you know your rabbit is eating enough hay? You will know because the waste droppings (the round, dry droppings in the bottom of the cage) will continue in a large number and will stay a large size. If these droppings decrease to half or less in size or greatly decrease in number or become greatly misshapen, then your rabbit is not eating enough and you need to check with your veterinarian to make sure there is not some other disease process going on.
Part 2: Adding in Other Foods
Once the soft droppings have resolved for at least a week, it is time to try adding in some additional foods. Although technically a rabbit could survive on good quality mixed grass hay, it is likely that it will not be complete for the life of the rabbit and will be missing some trace nutrients. In addition, rabbits are used to eating a wide variety of textures and tastes and it is much healthier mentally to have a variety of foods in their daily lives. We need to add these foods back in carefully though, because your bunny has a history of GI unbalance and we don’t want to return to that state. Remember that from here on out, your rabbit should ALWAYS have grass hay available as the basis of a good diet.
Green Foods
After your pet’s cecotropes have returned to normal for at least a week, it is time to introduce green foods into the diet. These foods provide a variety of nutrients as well as moisture.
We suggest adding one new green food every 48 hours to make sure no soft stools are being formed. You can easily determine which items are problematic if you only feed one green food every 48 hours, then remove the offending item if needed. Once you have tested several green foods, then you should feed at least three types daily to your pet Feed a maximum of about 1 packed cup of green foods per 2 pounds of body weight at least once a day or this amount divided twice a day.
Examples of Green Foods
Baby greens
Basil
Bok choy
Borage
Broccoli (leaves and top)
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage (red, green, Chinese)
Carrot/beet tops
Celery (leaves are good)
Chickory
Collard greens Dock
Dandelion greens (and flower)
Endive
Escarole
Kale
Leaf lettuce
Mustard greens
Parsley (Italian or flat leaf best)
Radicchio
Romaine lettuce
Swiss chard (any color)
Water cress
Healthy Treat Foods
When your rabbit returns to normal stool production and after the introduction of green foods you can try feeding small amounts of fruits and other vegetables as treats. As with the green foods, if you see any soft stools, remove the item from the diet. The maximum amount of a treat food is one tablespoon per two pounds body weight of any combination of the following:
Apples
Bean or alfalfa sprouts
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cactus fruit
Carrots
Cherries
Cranberries
Edible flowers from the garden (organically grown and NOT from a florist) such as roses, nasturtiums, day lilies, pansies and snap dragons
Green or red bell peppers
Kiwi Fruit
Mango
Melons
Papaya
Pea pods (flat, NO peas)
Peach
Pear
Pineapple
Raspberries
Squash
Strawberries
Pellets
After introducing greens and fruits and vegetables back into the diet for two weeks without any relapse to soft cecotropes, then it is time to try pellets again. It is important that you only use the grass-based pellets and not alfalfa-based pellets because you increase the likelihood of a problem with the high calorie alfalfa-based pellets. You can try adding in about 1/8 cup per 4 lbs of body weight initially and go up to no more then ¼ cup of pellets per 4 lbs body weight per day maximum. If the soft cecotropes return, remove the offending pellet and you may try a different brand of grass-based pellet. If the soft cecotropes return no matter what brand you feed, then you may have a rabbit that simply cannot tolerate pellets. In this case you can increase the consumption of greens to twice the amount listed above per day. This happens in a small population of rabbits and if necessary they can live successfully on a free-choice grass hay and moderated greens/vegetable/fruit diet without pellets.
Forbidden Foods
Never again feed commercial rabbit treats or high carbohydrate snacks which include those found in the following list:
Beans (of any kind)
Breads
Cereals
Chocolate
Corn
Nuts
Oats
Peas
Refined sugar
Seeds
Wheat
Any other grains
Vitamins
Your veterinarian may prescribe a vitamin supplement during the initial treatment for ISC, particularly if this has been a long-standing problem. If a rabbit cannot eat the cecotropes, then she may be missing vital nutrients those special droppings provide. Vitamin supplementation should be short term and need not continue once the pet is on a healthy diet and is producing normal cecotropes.
Some veterinarians feel that giving vitamin C during the treatment of ISS is helpful in improving the integrity of the wall of the cecum and decreasing toxin absorption into the body. Most rabbits will readily take chewable vitamin C tablets, should they be prescribed.
The dose is 100 mg per 5 pounds of body weight one to two times daily. Vitamin C should also be discontinued once the cecotropes return to normal.
Working with Your Veterinarian
It is important to keep any recommended recheck examinations and phone reports for your pet as suggested by your veterinarian. The progress of treatment can be evaluated and detection of any other diseases can be made. If the condition of ISC cannot be resolved with dietary treatment then your veterinarian will need to perform further diagnostic investigation to determine if there is additional disease. If you are having difficulties converting your rabbit to the diet suggestions made above, please consult your veterinarian and work with him or her so your rabbit can be monitored during this process.
Conclusion
ISC is most often caused by an inappropriate diet and in these cases it is not difficult to treat.
It does, however, require a commitment by you, the caregiver, to provide a healthy diet for your pet for the rest of the pet’s life. It won’t be easy at first as your pet becomes frustrated at the loss of the unhealthy but tasty treats, but the end result is a rabbit who is more active, more responsive and no longer needs high maintenance care. By successfully treating the common dietary cause of ISC, many rabbits can be saved from unnecessary euthanasia and the owners saved from unnecessary anguish.
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