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#caster turned out really good in my humble opinion
eegnm · 3 months
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✂️saw these fits and it reminded me of a certain group✂️
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vergess · 2 years
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I o humbly petition any other tips and or tricks for playing Final Fantasy Online.
Just go slow, basically.
Like, pick whether you want to do keyboard or controller, and then go slow.
The game is really, really, exceptionally good at teaching you how to play as you go.
Each of your skills/attacks has a little info box that tells you if there are any attacks you need to do before it, in which order, etc if you hover over it.
As a general rule, you're going to do a damage over time attack, followed by what are called "GCD" or global cooldown attacks. You may have "oGCDs" or instant attacks that are off the global cooldown that you can "weave" in between your GCD attacks depending on the class. Casters tend to have fewer of those, whereas ranged physical DPS (archers, etc) have like a ton.
But whatever class you pick, the game will teach you how to play it through the quests.
In my opinion, the hardest ones to pick up are the ones that already start at very high levels, because you have to read all of the attack information all at once and puzzle it out. But when that happens, you should turn to YouTube.
There's a really robust community of people on YouTube making comprehensive breakdowns of how to play each class, how to clear particular raids/dungeons, pretty much anything you can think of.
Honestly, though, the game itself is very forgiving until you start doing the optional vanity/challenge raids. Because the global cooldown is 2.5 seconds, there's a slower rhythm to combat that allows you to focus on all the environments and story and just generally enjoy yourself.
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ewinglogan93 · 4 years
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polarishq · 4 years
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Meet VIDIA OMA. They are SEVENTY ONE years old and hail from OAHU, HI. Vidia embodies the star, CASTOR. They use she/her pronouns. Their faceclaim is JANEL PARRISH.
Castor reminds me of "green with”, a child’s desperate wish, complete silence, I want what I deserve, transformation magic, fate steps in and sees it through, the thick smell of incense, quiet contemplation, it’s finally my turn.
BIOGRAPHY
The Granters live cliffside in Hawaii, nearby the Mauna Loa volcano. Their retreat center is peaceful, humble, but beautiful. When Vidia was ten years old and received her star mark, she was dropped off on the doorstep of the Granter Sanctuary. She was stripped of all her possessions, her belongings, and her powers. While inside the training part of the sanctuary, the Granters must give up their magical powers for a total of ten years to become truly humble before they are granted their magic back. She doesn’t remember her life before the Granters, doesn’t remember her parents, and doesn’t know if she has a family who loves her.
When Vidia entered the training session of the Sanctuary, it was only to determine whether or not she would be able to mentally withstand the loss of everything-- food, other than bread and water, magic, pleasure, anything. She had to become completely numb and unbiased in order to grant wishes from an objective point of view. Vidia, at first, drank the Kool Aid, so to speak. She was wholly convinced that at the end of the day, she would be granted her powers back and then some. She wanted to grant everyone’s wishes and make everyone else happy. Everyone but herself.
Vidia didn’t think she needed much, after all. The Granters took vows of silence for the training periods, so the fact that she was able to converse with her fellow Wish-Granters was a gift. After ten years of not using her voice, the gift of conversation was something she never took for granted ever again. Hearing people’s opinions? Incredible. But what Vidia loved to hear most were wishes.
Sometimes they’d come in a whisper in the middle of the night when she couldn’t sleep, the tell-tale twinkling of a wind chime before she heard a precious mortal child’s voice, asking for a pony or for a best friend or for ten million puppies. Sometimes, Vidia had some kind of choice in the matter, sometimes she didn’t. Wishes are opportunities, she’d been told. You can’t just give everyone what they want all the time. But you can give them the chance to take what they want. So if a child wished for ten million puppies, she’d create a spell that would make a stray come across their path. A pony? Bring a traveling circus into town. A best friend? Magically have a new child move into that school.
The best part of the Granters Academy was the Crystalline, a basin that served as special portal in which you could see the effects of your wishes. Vidia loved going to see the Crystalline, and every time she would see the face on a wish she’d granted, she would feel more and more exhausted but couldn’t understand why. It felt good to help others, and Vidia didn’t need anything for herself. The more wishes she granted, the more tired she became, and it started reflecting in things such as her appearance, her personality, and her magic. Her hair became brittle and broke at the strands, she would grow irritated with conversation, her wishes wouldn’t be as creative or as kindhearted. She grew bored with the job.
She wasn’t supposed to go into the Grand Caster’s office for her weekly check-in until the Grand Caster was present, but she did. She wasn’t supposed to see the Grand Caster taking the Crystalline and drinking from its depths like a woman who was dying of thirst. She wasn’t supposed to see the Grand Caster’s hair suddenly grow long and dark, her wrinkled skin suddenly appear smooth, and her thin lips become full and plum again. But she did. And it changed everything.
Her entire world of benevolence, of selflessness, of doing kind acts for others was all for naught. While she was giving away her life force to grant wishes, the Grand Caster was using the energy bestowed in the Crystalline to keep herself young and beautiful. Vidia was wasting away for nothing, for someone else. Now, normally, Vidia would have been okay with this. She’d been taught to be selfless, taught to be humble and kind, taught to give up everything for someone else. But in this case, Vidia didn’t like anything. She didn’t like that she was being used. She didn’t like that she was being tapped without her consent. And she really didn’t like the fact that the Grand Caster was taking their magic for her personal gain, instead of for everyone’s personal game.
So Vidia didn’t end up going to that weekly check-in. She ran away and used a glamour to hide her appearance, taking refuge in an inn where she met someone whose magic was meant to help her. Someone who showed her that her beauty was meant to be extolled for the world to worship. Someone who showed her that life shouldn’t be about caring for others, it should be about caring for yourself.
Vidia and her companion found their way to Polaris, where she has fully transformed from her kind and humble self to someone who knows what she wants and takes it, no matter the cost. Her magic is limited in the sense that she cannot conjure things for herself, only for others. And she hates that. She hates that her entire life has been about others, looking out for others, and nobody is looking out for her.
So now, she does what she wants. She works a job at The Phoenix Feather and uses the money she earns to pay for things that she wants. She is a confessed materialist. She goes out for fancy dinners, to taste food she’s never had before. She decides that even though she wants things, having them is something a little different.
And there are still things that she wants, which she cannot have.
But she’ll get them.
Don’t worry.
INCLINATION
Castor appears to be one of the brightest stars in our galaxy, but is actually comprised of six individual stars. Castor aptly sponsors those who are gifted in magic, but Castor’s primary inclination lies in wish fulfillment. If a mortal wishes on a star in the sky, Castor is one of the first to hear and the first to attempt to grant the wish if it is in their ability to do so. Otherwise, they must consult with a witch who specializes in that sort of magic in order to get the wish fulfilled.
CONNECTIONS
Filling one of the roles of Duyen Huynh’s Seven Devils (Envy)
I Want You to Want Me: Vidia is now used to getting what she wants, when she wants it, except for when it comes to this person. For whatever reason, this person absolutely avoids her advances and isn’t falling at her feet, and Vidia absolutely hates it.
Thief in the Night: This is the person Vidia found in the inn who showed her what life could be. Vidia’s magic is pretty restrictive, it doesn’t work on herself and therefore she can only perform magic for others. This person tends to do Vidia’s dirty work for her, whether it’s a glamour spell, a potion, or anything else Vidia needs. She can pay them off with sex or she could have some kind of blackmail on them, whatever’s more fun.
Mutual Trauma: Another Granter, who knew Vidia before but doesn’t know Vidia after. This Granter also got out of the convent and has come to Polaris to learn magic the proper way.
Penned by Leigh ★  
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andrewmawby · 6 years
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Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay
Hi all — I’m back visiting from Shark Tails again, and as always, stoked to be here. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I became a contributor at Remodelaholic: I have enjoyed absolutely every minute of it! Some of the recent projects I’ve shared include this DIY mid-century bench, and this simple hanging planter made from plywood and nylon clothesline.
It feels great to be back sharing another project with you all that I am really excited about! It’s the perfect project for those of you who are just getting started with this whole “building” thing, and want to get some practice with the mother of all DIY furniture tools: the Kreg Jig. Without further ado, I give you, my DIY plywood storage box:
youtube
A little backstory here: we live in eastern Canada and the winters here are pretty brutal. Two years ago we had a wood stove put in and it is the best decision we EVER made. I’m telling you guys: there is nothing like quite like wood heat when there’s six feet of snow outside and you’re debating moving to Hawaii permanently.  I honestly think in the thick of January-February-March, I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (It would be a tough choice, that’s all I’m saying.)
Wood stoves don’t come without their cons, though. Namely, all that wood can get pretty messy, especially when you’re up and down the basement stairs a few times a night lugging armfuls of the stuff. We had been using a sad little metal holder that had a nylon hammock type thing, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours worth of wood, and more importantly, it was hideous. It was also quite messy, as there were only two sides to it and I was constantly having to sweep up bark and wood crumbs. When Matt and I were thinking up projects for my next Remodelaholic post, he had the brilliant idea that I come up with a proper storage solution for the wood.
I briefly dabbled with the idea of open shelves up one side of the wall, which I have seen done and looks really awesome. My practical side won out though (this rarely happens) when I realized that would still be pretty messy, and would only look good if the shelves were kept constantly filled.
I settled on a basic storage box made out of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much scrap wood from other projects lying around in our garage, and this seemed like a great opportunity to use some of it up.
How to Build a Plywood Storage Box for Firewood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
Materials and Tools:
3/4″ plywood (one sheet)
8′ pine 1″ x 2″ trim (five — more if doing decorative inlay)
Circular or table saw
Mitre saw
KregJig pockethole system and 1 1/4″ screws
Finish nailer and 1 1/2″ finish nails
Clamps
Wood glue
Stainable/paintable wood filler
Random orbit sander and 120 grit paper
Paint or stain
3/4″ piano hinge (35″ long) and hardware
4 heavy-duty lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cut list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side pieces)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two end pieces)
1- 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1- 17.5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)
Building Instructions
As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to have a more finished, high quality look, it might be worth it to splurge on some nicer quality birch or something similar.
You can always have the hardware store cut your plywood to size for you, but if not, use a table saw or circular saw to cut your pieces to the proper dimensions. Full disclosure: I do not like using the table saw. I don’t really have the set-up to handle large sheets of wood, and I find I am just not that accurate with it. If you’re like me, you can easily make these cuts using a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a little mini-one that can cut up to 1 1/4″ material and I am obsessed with it!)
After cutting all of your plywood pieces to the proper dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ end pieces using your KregJig.
Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ long rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After attaching all the side pieces together, you should have a nice, bottomless box.
You’re now ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ bottom piece. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the board.
Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the board flush inside the bottom of the box.
I had my pocket holes facing the underside of the box to make attaching this piece easier, since you won’t see them anyway.
It’s time to trim out the box using 1″ x 2″ pine to hide those plywood edges. Cut the trim to length using your miter saw and attach flush to the ends of the box using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Once you’ve attached the trim to both ends of the box, you’re going to trim out the front and back of the box the same way, lining the trim up flush with the trim pieces on the side. (This means your trim will overlap your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Now that you’ve trimmed out the box, it’s time to trim the the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush with the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
And here is your lidded, trimmed out storage box in all its glory:
At this point, you can either leave the box as is and move on to the finishing touches, or you can jazz it up a bit with some inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed a certain something. I decided to do a patterned inlay.
For the inlay, I played around as I went. I started with the 90 degree vertical and horizontal pieces, and then to fill the empty space I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees to achieve the look I wanted, dry fitting them into place before attaching them with wood glue and finish nails. I did this on the front and both ends, but left the back as is because no one will ever see it and I was running low on trim!
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants totally pays off.
Fill in all the nail holes and gaps with wood filler, allow it to dry, and sand to a smooth finish using 120 grit sanding pads and an electric sander.
After you’ve sanded the entire piece (bottom and lid), wipe off any debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint as desired. I had just gotten a spray-nozzle that attaches to your spray paint cans (supposedly eliminating “finger fatigue”) that I was dying to try, so I decided to go the spray paint route. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in one in the semi-gloss white.
I have to say, that little nozzle worked amazingly well. Best $10 I ever spent. If you do a lot of spray painting, I suggest you invest in one of these little guys!
It took almost three cans of paint to get the coverage I wanted on the box and lid, and of course I allowed it to dry for just enough time (I need to work on my patience) so I could handle it without the paint completely rubbing off. I recommend you let it dry for at least 24 hours, though.
The next step is totally optional: once the paint is “dry”, add four heavy duty lockable casters to the bottom of the box. I did this so we can easily wheel it in and out of place if we want.
Phew! Almost done you guys. The final step is to attach the lid to the bottom using a 36″  x  3/4″ piano hinge and appropriate hardware (they usually come together). I had to manually use my good old fashioned screwdriver for this, since someone (Matt) has misplaced my small square drill bit.
Line the hinge up flush with the edge of the top and secure with a screw on each end. I didn’t put all the screws in until I attached the top to the hinge as well, to make sure everything was lined up nicely.
Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’ll tell you it felt pretty good to me! I had my dad help me move it inside to its new home by the stove so I could surprise Matt when he got home from watching football with his dudebros.
  I am pretty pleased with how nicely this turned out even though I used junky plywood scraps that have probably been in the garage since 2013. If this were going to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc, I would have put a lot more care into the finish work, however for its intended purpose and the wear and tear it’s going to have to put up with, I didn’t want to get too hung up on the tiny details.
I love how much wood this bad boy holds! I was considering adding lockable hinges on the inside to keep the lid from slamming down, but it doesn’t seem necessary. I would probably invest in a pair if this were a toy box where little fingers would be, though.
Matt has already requested a handle be added to the top to make opening and closing the lid easier. I was thinking a leather strap might look nice. Thoughts?
I love that it’s also now another place for me to style throw pillows! (I may or may not have a throw-pillow related-problem…)
And while we’re at it, why don’t we go ahead and throw a plant on there as well?
This is such a step up from the old metal eyesore we were using and I love how functional and versatile it is. Obviously it will be hard to keep things “styled” on top of it during the winter when we’re constantly opening and closing it, but for the other three weeks of the year (ha!) it’s the perfect place for some pretty decor, in my humble opinion.
Our living room still has a long ways to go, but it’s come pretty far from where we began. Last summer, I refinished our hardwood floors, which did wonders for the space and made it feel much lighter.
    It’s been pretty chilly at night so we’ve already been getting lots of use out of the wood stove.
As always, if you decide to tackle this project yourself, don’t forget to share and tag #imaremodelaholic so we can see your beautiful work!
More storage-friendly one-sheet plywood projects:
open-top plywood storage box
one-sheet plywood leaning shelf
jumbo pegboard for office storage
        The post Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay appeared first on Remodelaholic.
from builders feed https://www.remodelaholic.com/easy-plywood-storage-box-geometric-inlay/ via http://www.rssmix.com/
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sherlocklexa · 6 years
Text
Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay
Hi all — I’m back visiting from Shark Tails again, and as always, stoked to be here. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I became a contributor at Remodelaholic: I have enjoyed absolutely every minute of it! Some of the recent projects I’ve shared include this DIY mid-century bench, and this simple hanging planter made from plywood and nylon clothesline.
It feels great to be back sharing another project with you all that I am really excited about! It’s the perfect project for those of you who are just getting started with this whole “building” thing, and want to get some practice with the mother of all DIY furniture tools: the Kreg Jig. Without further ado, I give you, my DIY plywood storage box:
A little backstory here: we live in eastern Canada and the winters here are pretty brutal. Two years ago we had a wood stove put in and it is the best decision we EVER made. I’m telling you guys: there is nothing like quite like wood heat when there’s six feet of snow outside and you’re debating moving to Hawaii permanently.  I honestly think in the thick of January-February-March, I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (It would be a tough choice, that’s all I’m saying.)
Wood stoves don’t come without their cons, though. Namely, all that wood can get pretty messy, especially when you’re up and down the basement stairs a few times a night lugging armfuls of the stuff. We had been using a sad little metal holder that had a nylon hammock type thing, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours worth of wood, and more importantly, it was hideous. It was also quite messy, as there were only two sides to it and I was constantly having to sweep up bark and wood crumbs. When Matt and I were thinking up projects for my next Remodelaholic post, he had the brilliant idea that I come up with a proper storage solution for the wood.
I briefly dabbled with the idea of open shelves up one side of the wall, which I have seen done and looks really awesome. My practical side won out though (this rarely happens) when I realized that would still be pretty messy, and would only look good if the shelves were kept constantly filled.
I settled on a basic storage box made out of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much scrap wood from other projects lying around in our garage, and this seemed like a great opportunity to use some of it up.
How to Build a Plywood Storage Box for Firewood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
Materials and Tools:
3/4″ plywood (one sheet)
8′ pine 1″ x 2″ trim (five — more if doing decorative inlay)
Circular or table saw
Mitre saw
KregJig pockethole system and 1 1/4″ screws
Finish nailer and 1 1/2″ finish nails
Clamps
Wood glue
Stainable/paintable wood filler
Random orbit sander and 120 grit paper
Paint or stain
3/4″ piano hinge (35″ long) and hardware
4 heavy-duty lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cut list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side pieces)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two end pieces)
1- 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1- 17.5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)
Building Instructions
As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to have a more finished, high quality look, it might be worth it to splurge on some nicer quality birch or something similar.
You can always have the hardware store cut your plywood to size for you, but if not, use a table saw or circular saw to cut your pieces to the proper dimensions. Full disclosure: I do not like using the table saw. I don’t really have the set-up to handle large sheets of wood, and I find I am just not that accurate with it. If you’re like me, you can easily make these cuts using a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a little mini-one that can cut up to 1 1/4″ material and I am obsessed with it!)
After cutting all of your plywood pieces to the proper dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ end pieces using your KregJig.
Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ long rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After attaching all the side pieces together, you should have a nice, bottomless box.
You’re now ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ bottom piece. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the board.
Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the board flush inside the bottom of the box.
I had my pocket holes facing the underside of the box to make attaching this piece easier, since you won’t see them anyway.
It’s time to trim out the box using 1″ x 2″ pine to hide those plywood edges. Cut the trim to length using your miter saw and attach flush to the ends of the box using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Once you’ve attached the trim to both ends of the box, you’re going to trim out the front and back of the box the same way, lining the trim up flush with the trim pieces on the side. (This means your trim will overlap your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Now that you’ve trimmed out the box, it’s time to trim the the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush with the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
And here is your lidded, trimmed out storage box in all its glory:
At this point, you can either leave the box as is and move on to the finishing touches, or you can jazz it up a bit with some inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed a certain something. I decided to do a patterned inlay.
For the inlay, I played around as I went. I started with the 90 degree vertical and horizontal pieces, and then to fill the empty space I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees to achieve the look I wanted, dry fitting them into place before attaching them with wood glue and finish nails. I did this on the front and both ends, but left the back as is because no one will ever see it and I was running low on trim!
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants totally pays off.
Fill in all the nail holes and gaps with wood filler, allow it to dry, and sand to a smooth finish using 120 grit sanding pads and an electric sander.
After you’ve sanded the entire piece (bottom and lid), wipe off any debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint as desired. I had just gotten a spray-nozzle that attaches to your spray paint cans (supposedly eliminating “finger fatigue”) that I was dying to try, so I decided to go the spray paint route. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in one in the semi-gloss white.
I have to say, that little nozzle worked amazingly well. Best $10 I ever spent. If you do a lot of spray painting, I suggest you invest in one of these little guys!
It took almost three cans of paint to get the coverage I wanted on the box and lid, and of course I allowed it to dry for just enough time (I need to work on my patience) so I could handle it without the paint completely rubbing off. I recommend you let it dry for at least 24 hours, though.
The next step is totally optional: once the paint is “dry”, add four heavy duty lockable casters to the bottom of the box. I did this so we can easily wheel it in and out of place if we want.
Phew! Almost done you guys. The final step is to attach the lid to the bottom using a 36″  x  3/4″ piano hinge and appropriate hardware (they usually come together). I had to manually use my good old fashioned screwdriver for this, since someone (Matt) has misplaced my small square drill bit.
Line the hinge up flush with the edge of the top and secure with a screw on each end. I didn’t put all the screws in until I attached the top to the hinge as well, to make sure everything was lined up nicely.
Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’ll tell you it felt pretty good to me! I had my dad help me move it inside to its new home by the stove so I could surprise Matt when he got home from watching football with his dudebros.
  I am pretty pleased with how nicely this turned out even though I used junky plywood scraps that have probably been in the garage since 2013. If this were going to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc, I would have put a lot more care into the finish work, however for its intended purpose and the wear and tear it’s going to have to put up with, I didn’t want to get too hung up on the tiny details.
I love how much wood this bad boy holds! I was considering adding lockable hinges on the inside to keep the lid from slamming down, but it doesn’t seem necessary. I would probably invest in a pair if this were a toy box where little fingers would be, though.
Matt has already requested a handle be added to the top to make opening and closing the lid easier. I was thinking a leather strap might look nice. Thoughts?
I love that it’s also now another place for me to style throw pillows! (I may or may not have a throw-pillow related-problem…)
And while we’re at it, why don’t we go ahead and throw a plant on there as well?
This is such a step up from the old metal eyesore we were using and I love how functional and versatile it is. Obviously it will be hard to keep things “styled” on top of it during the winter when we’re constantly opening and closing it, but for the other three weeks of the year (ha!) it’s the perfect place for some pretty decor, in my humble opinion.
Our living room still has a long ways to go, but it’s come pretty far from where we began. Last summer, I refinished our hardwood floors, which did wonders for the space and made it feel much lighter.
    It’s been pretty chilly at night so we’ve already been getting lots of use out of the wood stove.
As always, if you decide to tackle this project yourself, don’t forget to share and tag #imaremodelaholic so we can see your beautiful work!
More storage-friendly one-sheet plywood projects:
open-top plywood storage box
one-sheet plywood leaning shelf
jumbo pegboard for office storage
        The post Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay appeared first on Remodelaholic.
from car2 http://ift.tt/2Cm6X9S via as shown a lot
0 notes
chocdono · 6 years
Text
Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay
Hi all — I’m back visiting from Shark Tails again, and as always, stoked to be here. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I became a contributor at Remodelaholic: I have enjoyed absolutely every minute of it! Some of the recent projects I’ve shared include this DIY mid-century bench, and this simple hanging planter made from plywood and nylon clothesline.
It feels great to be back sharing another project with you all that I am really excited about! It’s the perfect project for those of you who are just getting started with this whole “building” thing, and want to get some practice with the mother of all DIY furniture tools: the Kreg Jig. Without further ado, I give you, my DIY plywood storage box:
A little backstory here: we live in eastern Canada and the winters here are pretty brutal. Two years ago we had a wood stove put in and it is the best decision we EVER made. I’m telling you guys: there is nothing like quite like wood heat when there’s six feet of snow outside and you’re debating moving to Hawaii permanently.  I honestly think in the thick of January-February-March, I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (It would be a tough choice, that’s all I’m saying.)
Wood stoves don’t come without their cons, though. Namely, all that wood can get pretty messy, especially when you’re up and down the basement stairs a few times a night lugging armfuls of the stuff. We had been using a sad little metal holder that had a nylon hammock type thing, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours worth of wood, and more importantly, it was hideous. It was also quite messy, as there were only two sides to it and I was constantly having to sweep up bark and wood crumbs. When Matt and I were thinking up projects for my next Remodelaholic post, he had the brilliant idea that I come up with a proper storage solution for the wood.
I briefly dabbled with the idea of open shelves up one side of the wall, which I have seen done and looks really awesome. My practical side won out though (this rarely happens) when I realized that would still be pretty messy, and would only look good if the shelves were kept constantly filled.
I settled on a basic storage box made out of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much scrap wood from other projects lying around in our garage, and this seemed like a great opportunity to use some of it up.
How to Build a Plywood Storage Box for Firewood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
Materials and Tools:
3/4″ plywood (one sheet)
8′ pine 1″ x 2″ trim (five — more if doing decorative inlay)
Circular or table saw
Mitre saw
KregJig pockethole system and 1 1/4″ screws
Finish nailer and 1 1/2″ finish nails
Clamps
Wood glue
Stainable/paintable wood filler
Random orbit sander and 120 grit paper
Paint or stain
3/4″ piano hinge (35″ long) and hardware
4 heavy-duty lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cut list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side pieces)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two end pieces)
1- 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1- 17.5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)
Building Instructions
As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to have a more finished, high quality look, it might be worth it to splurge on some nicer quality birch or something similar.
You can always have the hardware store cut your plywood to size for you, but if not, use a table saw or circular saw to cut your pieces to the proper dimensions. Full disclosure: I do not like using the table saw. I don’t really have the set-up to handle large sheets of wood, and I find I am just not that accurate with it. If you’re like me, you can easily make these cuts using a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a little mini-one that can cut up to 1 1/4″ material and I am obsessed with it!)
After cutting all of your plywood pieces to the proper dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ end pieces using your KregJig.
Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ long rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After attaching all the side pieces together, you should have a nice, bottomless box.
You’re now ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ bottom piece. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the board.
Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the board flush inside the bottom of the box.
I had my pocket holes facing the underside of the box to make attaching this piece easier, since you won’t see them anyway.
It’s time to trim out the box using 1″ x 2″ pine to hide those plywood edges. Cut the trim to length using your miter saw and attach flush to the ends of the box using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Once you’ve attached the trim to both ends of the box, you’re going to trim out the front and back of the box the same way, lining the trim up flush with the trim pieces on the side. (This means your trim will overlap your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Now that you’ve trimmed out the box, it’s time to trim the the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush with the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
And here is your lidded, trimmed out storage box in all its glory:
At this point, you can either leave the box as is and move on to the finishing touches, or you can jazz it up a bit with some inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed a certain something. I decided to do a patterned inlay.
For the inlay, I played around as I went. I started with the 90 degree vertical and horizontal pieces, and then to fill the empty space I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees to achieve the look I wanted, dry fitting them into place before attaching them with wood glue and finish nails. I did this on the front and both ends, but left the back as is because no one will ever see it and I was running low on trim!
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants totally pays off.
Fill in all the nail holes and gaps with wood filler, allow it to dry, and sand to a smooth finish using 120 grit sanding pads and an electric sander.
After you’ve sanded the entire piece (bottom and lid), wipe off any debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint as desired. I had just gotten a spray-nozzle that attaches to your spray paint cans (supposedly eliminating “finger fatigue”) that I was dying to try, so I decided to go the spray paint route. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in one in the semi-gloss white.
I have to say, that little nozzle worked amazingly well. Best $10 I ever spent. If you do a lot of spray painting, I suggest you invest in one of these little guys!
It took almost three cans of paint to get the coverage I wanted on the box and lid, and of course I allowed it to dry for just enough time (I need to work on my patience) so I could handle it without the paint completely rubbing off. I recommend you let it dry for at least 24 hours, though.
The next step is totally optional: once the paint is “dry”, add four heavy duty lockable casters to the bottom of the box. I did this so we can easily wheel it in and out of place if we want.
Phew! Almost done you guys. The final step is to attach the lid to the bottom using a 36″  x  3/4″ piano hinge and appropriate hardware (they usually come together). I had to manually use my good old fashioned screwdriver for this, since someone (Matt) has misplaced my small square drill bit.
Line the hinge up flush with the edge of the top and secure with a screw on each end. I didn’t put all the screws in until I attached the top to the hinge as well, to make sure everything was lined up nicely.
Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’ll tell you it felt pretty good to me! I had my dad help me move it inside to its new home by the stove so I could surprise Matt when he got home from watching football with his dudebros.
  I am pretty pleased with how nicely this turned out even though I used junky plywood scraps that have probably been in the garage since 2013. If this were going to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc, I would have put a lot more care into the finish work, however for its intended purpose and the wear and tear it’s going to have to put up with, I didn’t want to get too hung up on the tiny details.
I love how much wood this bad boy holds! I was considering adding lockable hinges on the inside to keep the lid from slamming down, but it doesn’t seem necessary. I would probably invest in a pair if this were a toy box where little fingers would be, though.
Matt has already requested a handle be added to the top to make opening and closing the lid easier. I was thinking a leather strap might look nice. Thoughts?
I love that it’s also now another place for me to style throw pillows! (I may or may not have a throw-pillow related-problem…)
And while we’re at it, why don’t we go ahead and throw a plant on there as well?
This is such a step up from the old metal eyesore we were using and I love how functional and versatile it is. Obviously it will be hard to keep things “styled” on top of it during the winter when we’re constantly opening and closing it, but for the other three weeks of the year (ha!) it’s the perfect place for some pretty decor, in my humble opinion.
Our living room still has a long ways to go, but it’s come pretty far from where we began. Last summer, I refinished our hardwood floors, which did wonders for the space and made it feel much lighter.
    It’s been pretty chilly at night so we’ve already been getting lots of use out of the wood stove.
As always, if you decide to tackle this project yourself, don’t forget to share and tag #imaremodelaholic so we can see your beautiful work!
More storage-friendly one-sheet plywood projects:
open-top plywood storage box
one-sheet plywood leaning shelf
jumbo pegboard for office storage
        The post Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay appeared first on Remodelaholic.
from mix1 http://ift.tt/2Cm6X9S via with this info
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yesterdaysdreams · 6 years
Text
Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay
Hi all — I’m back visiting from Shark Tails again, and as always, stoked to be here. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I became a contributor at Remodelaholic: I have enjoyed absolutely every minute of it! Some of the recent projects I’ve shared include this DIY mid-century bench, and this simple hanging planter made from plywood and nylon clothesline.
It feels great to be back sharing another project with you all that I am really excited about! It’s the perfect project for those of you who are just getting started with this whole “building” thing, and want to get some practice with the mother of all DIY furniture tools: the Kreg Jig. Without further ado, I give you, my DIY plywood storage box:
youtube
A little backstory here: we live in eastern Canada and the winters here are pretty brutal. Two years ago we had a wood stove put in and it is the best decision we EVER made. I’m telling you guys: there is nothing like quite like wood heat when there’s six feet of snow outside and you’re debating moving to Hawaii permanently.  I honestly think in the thick of January-February-March, I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (It would be a tough choice, that’s all I’m saying.)
Wood stoves don’t come without their cons, though. Namely, all that wood can get pretty messy, especially when you’re up and down the basement stairs a few times a night lugging armfuls of the stuff. We had been using a sad little metal holder that had a nylon hammock type thing, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours worth of wood, and more importantly, it was hideous. It was also quite messy, as there were only two sides to it and I was constantly having to sweep up bark and wood crumbs. When Matt and I were thinking up projects for my next Remodelaholic post, he had the brilliant idea that I come up with a proper storage solution for the wood.
I briefly dabbled with the idea of open shelves up one side of the wall, which I have seen done and looks really awesome. My practical side won out though (this rarely happens) when I realized that would still be pretty messy, and would only look good if the shelves were kept constantly filled.
I settled on a basic storage box made out of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much scrap wood from other projects lying around in our garage, and this seemed like a great opportunity to use some of it up.
How to Build a Plywood Storage Box for Firewood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
Materials and Tools:
3/4″ plywood (one sheet)
8′ pine 1″ x 2″ trim (five — more if doing decorative inlay)
Circular or table saw
Mitre saw
KregJig pockethole system and 1 1/4″ screws
Finish nailer and 1 1/2″ finish nails
Clamps
Wood glue
Stainable/paintable wood filler
Random orbit sander and 120 grit paper
Paint or stain
3/4″ piano hinge (35″ long) and hardware
4 heavy-duty lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cut list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side pieces)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two end pieces)
1- 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1- 17.5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)
Building Instructions
As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to have a more finished, high quality look, it might be worth it to splurge on some nicer quality birch or something similar.
You can always have the hardware store cut your plywood to size for you, but if not, use a table saw or circular saw to cut your pieces to the proper dimensions. Full disclosure: I do not like using the table saw. I don’t really have the set-up to handle large sheets of wood, and I find I am just not that accurate with it. If you’re like me, you can easily make these cuts using a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a little mini-one that can cut up to 1 1/4″ material and I am obsessed with it!)
After cutting all of your plywood pieces to the proper dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ end pieces using your KregJig.
Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ long rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After attaching all the side pieces together, you should have a nice, bottomless box.
You’re now ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ bottom piece. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the board.
Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the board flush inside the bottom of the box.
I had my pocket holes facing the underside of the box to make attaching this piece easier, since you won’t see them anyway.
It’s time to trim out the box using 1″ x 2″ pine to hide those plywood edges. Cut the trim to length using your miter saw and attach flush to the ends of the box using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Once you’ve attached the trim to both ends of the box, you’re going to trim out the front and back of the box the same way, lining the trim up flush with the trim pieces on the side. (This means your trim will overlap your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Now that you’ve trimmed out the box, it’s time to trim the the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush with the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
And here is your lidded, trimmed out storage box in all its glory:
At this point, you can either leave the box as is and move on to the finishing touches, or you can jazz it up a bit with some inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed a certain something. I decided to do a patterned inlay.
For the inlay, I played around as I went. I started with the 90 degree vertical and horizontal pieces, and then to fill the empty space I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees to achieve the look I wanted, dry fitting them into place before attaching them with wood glue and finish nails. I did this on the front and both ends, but left the back as is because no one will ever see it and I was running low on trim!
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants totally pays off.
Fill in all the nail holes and gaps with wood filler, allow it to dry, and sand to a smooth finish using 120 grit sanding pads and an electric sander.
After you’ve sanded the entire piece (bottom and lid), wipe off any debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint as desired. I had just gotten a spray-nozzle that attaches to your spray paint cans (supposedly eliminating “finger fatigue”) that I was dying to try, so I decided to go the spray paint route. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in one in the semi-gloss white.
I have to say, that little nozzle worked amazingly well. Best $10 I ever spent. If you do a lot of spray painting, I suggest you invest in one of these little guys!
It took almost three cans of paint to get the coverage I wanted on the box and lid, and of course I allowed it to dry for just enough time (I need to work on my patience) so I could handle it without the paint completely rubbing off. I recommend you let it dry for at least 24 hours, though.
The next step is totally optional: once the paint is “dry”, add four heavy duty lockable casters to the bottom of the box. I did this so we can easily wheel it in and out of place if we want.
Phew! Almost done you guys. The final step is to attach the lid to the bottom using a 36″  x  3/4″ piano hinge and appropriate hardware (they usually come together). I had to manually use my good old fashioned screwdriver for this, since someone (Matt) has misplaced my small square drill bit.
Line the hinge up flush with the edge of the top and secure with a screw on each end. I didn’t put all the screws in until I attached the top to the hinge as well, to make sure everything was lined up nicely.
Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’ll tell you it felt pretty good to me! I had my dad help me move it inside to its new home by the stove so I could surprise Matt when he got home from watching football with his dudebros.
  I am pretty pleased with how nicely this turned out even though I used junky plywood scraps that have probably been in the garage since 2013. If this were going to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc, I would have put a lot more care into the finish work, however for its intended purpose and the wear and tear it’s going to have to put up with, I didn’t want to get too hung up on the tiny details.
I love how much wood this bad boy holds! I was considering adding lockable hinges on the inside to keep the lid from slamming down, but it doesn’t seem necessary. I would probably invest in a pair if this were a toy box where little fingers would be, though.
Matt has already requested a handle be added to the top to make opening and closing the lid easier. I was thinking a leather strap might look nice. Thoughts?
I love that it’s also now another place for me to style throw pillows! (I may or may not have a throw-pillow related-problem…)
And while we’re at it, why don’t we go ahead and throw a plant on there as well?
This is such a step up from the old metal eyesore we were using and I love how functional and versatile it is. Obviously it will be hard to keep things “styled” on top of it during the winter when we’re constantly opening and closing it, but for the other three weeks of the year (ha!) it’s the perfect place for some pretty decor, in my humble opinion.
Our living room still has a long ways to go, but it’s come pretty far from where we began. Last summer, I refinished our hardwood floors, which did wonders for the space and made it feel much lighter.
    It’s been pretty chilly at night so we’ve already been getting lots of use out of the wood stove.
As always, if you decide to tackle this project yourself, don’t forget to share and tag #imaremodelaholic so we can see your beautiful work!
More storage-friendly one-sheet plywood projects:
open-top plywood storage box
one-sheet plywood leaning shelf
jumbo pegboard for office storage
        The post Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay appeared first on Remodelaholic.
from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 http://ift.tt/2Cm6X9S via IFTTT
0 notes
andrewmawby · 6 years
Text
Easy Plywood Storage Box with Geometric Inlay
Hi all — I’m back visiting from Shark Tails again, and as always, stoked to be here. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I became a contributor at Remodelaholic: I have enjoyed absolutely every minute of it! Some of the recent projects I’ve shared include this DIY mid-century bench, and this simple hanging planter made from plywood and nylon clothesline.
It feels great to be back sharing another project with you all that I am really excited about! It’s the perfect project for those of you who are just getting started with this whole “building” thing, and want to get some practice with the mother of all DIY furniture tools: the Kreg Jig. Without further ado, I give you, my DIY plywood storage box:
youtube
A little backstory here: we live in eastern Canada and the winters here are pretty brutal. Two years ago we had a wood stove put in and it is the best decision we EVER made. I’m telling you guys: there is nothing like quite like wood heat when there’s six feet of snow outside and you’re debating moving to Hawaii permanently.  I honestly think in the thick of January-February-March, I would have a hard time choosing between my wood stove and my husband. (It would be a tough choice, that’s all I’m saying.)
Wood stoves don’t come without their cons, though. Namely, all that wood can get pretty messy, especially when you’re up and down the basement stairs a few times a night lugging armfuls of the stuff. We had been using a sad little metal holder that had a nylon hammock type thing, but it wouldn’t hold more than a few hours worth of wood, and more importantly, it was hideous. It was also quite messy, as there were only two sides to it and I was constantly having to sweep up bark and wood crumbs. When Matt and I were thinking up projects for my next Remodelaholic post, he had the brilliant idea that I come up with a proper storage solution for the wood.
I briefly dabbled with the idea of open shelves up one side of the wall, which I have seen done and looks really awesome. My practical side won out though (this rarely happens) when I realized that would still be pretty messy, and would only look good if the shelves were kept constantly filled.
I settled on a basic storage box made out of 3/4″ plywood and 1″ x 2″ pine trim. I had so much scrap wood from other projects lying around in our garage, and this seemed like a great opportunity to use some of it up.
How to Build a Plywood Storage Box for Firewood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
Materials and Tools:
3/4″ plywood (one sheet)
8′ pine 1″ x 2″ trim (five — more if doing decorative inlay)
Circular or table saw
Mitre saw
KregJig pockethole system and 1 1/4″ screws
Finish nailer and 1 1/2″ finish nails
Clamps
Wood glue
Stainable/paintable wood filler
Random orbit sander and 120 grit paper
Paint or stain
3/4″ piano hinge (35″ long) and hardware
4 heavy-duty lockable casters (optional) and hardware
Plywood cut list
2 – 16″ x 38″ (two side pieces)
2 – 16″ x 16″ (two end pieces)
1- 16″ x 36.5″ (bottom piece)
1- 17.5″ x 38″ (top piece)
Trim Cut List
14″ (4 pieces)
16″ (8 pieces)
36 1/2″ (4 pieces)
Building Instructions
As mentioned above, I used wood that I already had in the garage. The plywood I used was super rough spruce, but if you wanted this piece to have a more finished, high quality look, it might be worth it to splurge on some nicer quality birch or something similar.
You can always have the hardware store cut your plywood to size for you, but if not, use a table saw or circular saw to cut your pieces to the proper dimensions. Full disclosure: I do not like using the table saw. I don’t really have the set-up to handle large sheets of wood, and I find I am just not that accurate with it. If you’re like me, you can easily make these cuts using a straight edge and a circular saw. (Mine is a little mini-one that can cut up to 1 1/4″ material and I am obsessed with it!)
After cutting all of your plywood pieces to the proper dimensions, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the parallel sides of the two 16″ x 16″ end pieces using your KregJig.
Once you’ve drilled your pocket holes, attach the 16″ x 16″ square pieces to the 16″ x 38″ long rectangular side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After attaching all the side pieces together, you should have a nice, bottomless box.
You’re now ready to attach the 16″ x 36 1/2″ bottom piece. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all around the perimeter of the board.
Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the board flush inside the bottom of the box.
I had my pocket holes facing the underside of the box to make attaching this piece easier, since you won’t see them anyway.
It’s time to trim out the box using 1″ x 2″ pine to hide those plywood edges. Cut the trim to length using your miter saw and attach flush to the ends of the box using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Once you’ve attached the trim to both ends of the box, you’re going to trim out the front and back of the box the same way, lining the trim up flush with the trim pieces on the side. (This means your trim will overlap your plywood by about 3/4″.) Use wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
Now that you’ve trimmed out the box, it’s time to trim the the lid. Simply attach 1″ x 2″ trim flush with the edge of your 17 1/2″ x 38″ piece of plywood using wood glue and 1 1/2″ finish nails.
And here is your lidded, trimmed out storage box in all its glory:
At this point, you can either leave the box as is and move on to the finishing touches, or you can jazz it up a bit with some inlay. I had a lot of extra trim lying around, and I felt the box needed a certain something. I decided to do a patterned inlay.
For the inlay, I played around as I went. I started with the 90 degree vertical and horizontal pieces, and then to fill the empty space I used my miter saw to cut a variety of trapezoids and parallelograms at 45 degrees to achieve the look I wanted, dry fitting them into place before attaching them with wood glue and finish nails. I did this on the front and both ends, but left the back as is because no one will ever see it and I was running low on trim!
Sometimes flying by the seat of your pants totally pays off.
Fill in all the nail holes and gaps with wood filler, allow it to dry, and sand to a smooth finish using 120 grit sanding pads and an electric sander.
After you’ve sanded the entire piece (bottom and lid), wipe off any debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint as desired. I had just gotten a spray-nozzle that attaches to your spray paint cans (supposedly eliminating “finger fatigue”) that I was dying to try, so I decided to go the spray paint route. I used Rustoleum paint and primer in one in the semi-gloss white.
I have to say, that little nozzle worked amazingly well. Best $10 I ever spent. If you do a lot of spray painting, I suggest you invest in one of these little guys!
It took almost three cans of paint to get the coverage I wanted on the box and lid, and of course I allowed it to dry for just enough time (I need to work on my patience) so I could handle it without the paint completely rubbing off. I recommend you let it dry for at least 24 hours, though.
The next step is totally optional: once the paint is “dry”, add four heavy duty lockable casters to the bottom of the box. I did this so we can easily wheel it in and out of place if we want.
Phew! Almost done you guys. The final step is to attach the lid to the bottom using a 36″  x  3/4″ piano hinge and appropriate hardware (they usually come together). I had to manually use my good old fashioned screwdriver for this, since someone (Matt) has misplaced my small square drill bit.
Line the hinge up flush with the edge of the top and secure with a screw on each end. I didn’t put all the screws in until I attached the top to the hinge as well, to make sure everything was lined up nicely.
Ok, now you’re done! How does it feel? I’ll tell you it felt pretty good to me! I had my dad help me move it inside to its new home by the stove so I could surprise Matt when he got home from watching football with his dudebros.
  I am pretty pleased with how nicely this turned out even though I used junky plywood scraps that have probably been in the garage since 2013. If this were going to be used for something like toys, blankets, etc, I would have put a lot more care into the finish work, however for its intended purpose and the wear and tear it’s going to have to put up with, I didn’t want to get too hung up on the tiny details.
I love how much wood this bad boy holds! I was considering adding lockable hinges on the inside to keep the lid from slamming down, but it doesn’t seem necessary. I would probably invest in a pair if this were a toy box where little fingers would be, though.
Matt has already requested a handle be added to the top to make opening and closing the lid easier. I was thinking a leather strap might look nice. Thoughts?
I love that it’s also now another place for me to style throw pillows! (I may or may not have a throw-pillow related-problem…)
And while we’re at it, why don’t we go ahead and throw a plant on there as well?
This is such a step up from the old metal eyesore we were using and I love how functional and versatile it is. Obviously it will be hard to keep things “styled” on top of it during the winter when we’re constantly opening and closing it, but for the other three weeks of the year (ha!) it’s the perfect place for some pretty decor, in my humble opinion.
Our living room still has a long ways to go, but it’s come pretty far from where we began. Last summer, I refinished our hardwood floors, which did wonders for the space and made it feel much lighter.
    It’s been pretty chilly at night so we’ve already been getting lots of use out of the wood stove.
As always, if you decide to tackle this project yourself, don’t forget to share and tag #imaremodelaholic so we can see your beautiful work!
More storage-friendly one-sheet plywood projects:
open-top plywood storage box
one-sheet plywood leaning shelf
jumbo pegboard for office storage
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