hey so have we all seen the full version of this picture yet. are we seeing this

Close Focus, Macro, and Micro - How Close Is Also Close?

After you take a head and shoulders portrait often you move in close. For those who use your zoom lens and fill the frame with only the face, you've got gotten closer. Any time you fill the entire frame having a single eye you may have entered the planet of close-up photography. To go beyond that; to determine information inside the reflection of that eye, you have got entered the world of macro photography. What a person considers "close" is in the eye on the beholder. (No pun intended.)

For many years camera companies have confused individuals once they advertise "macro", and in reality they provide "Close focus". In most cases, any time you use a Close Focus lens you'll be able to only get within 18 inches of the subject. When you use a close focus on a zoom lens, it may appear that you just had been closer than 18 inches; like a single human eye in your photo. But what takes place when you commence to photograph something that most eyes never see; the reflection within an eye as an example? How close is also close?

For those who photograph a butterfly peering more than the edge of a flower, that could be a fantastic use of a macro lens. But let's say you photograph the hair on the side of a butterfly's leg. Oh yes, it's attainable, but the query that remains is why would you desire to acquire that close? If you are an entomologist (a single who research insects) then you definitely are getting into the globe of Micro Photography. If you are in medicine or various other fields there are really legitimate motives for going beyond what the human eye can see.

Artistically nevertheless, there is a gray location that quite a few photographers disagree on. For those who are photographing an object so close that you can no longer tell what the original subject was, you will be venturing into the region named Abstract photography. Abstract photography like abstract art usually has no clearly defined topic, but leaves a lot more towards the viewers' imagination. It is meant to become seasoned from the inside, not examined in the outside. At this point the original subject actually doesn't matter; what does matter may be the lines, curves, textures and colors and how they impact the viewer.

Personally; and don't forget I am speaking from a graphic arts background, when you are relying on just the basic elements of style you ought to be a painter not a photographer. There it's, I confess, I'm a photographic snob. Viewers ought to be in a position to find out the subject inside a new way, but I draw the line when they never know what the topic is.

Issues like bellows and extension tubes won't work around the average digital camera nowadays, even so filters nonetheless will. Even when the lens you may have is built in and has no threads around the finish, it is possible to still use close up filters to go further than you may have just before. One point worth mentioning is the fact that filters are sharpest inside the center and tend to obtain softer concentrate around the edges. When you like a narrow depth of field, that is not necessarily an issue, since it assists to isolate your topic against the background.

Nevertheless should you wish to get closer and sharp from edge to edge, you are going to will need a high finish digital camera that you could get rid of the lens from. This allows you to especially use a Macro lens and or add the devises I described above (bellows or extension tubes.) One particular benefit that digital cameras have in general could be the higher resolution. In the event you want an extreme close up, attempt an intense blow up. In the event you have among these new digital wonders that may make prints 64 inches x 48 inches, surely you are able to get a good 8 x10 image by just enlarging a section from the original.

Based on the equipment you have got you can use any mixture of these devises to acquire the outcomes you would like. Back within the military, I once had a captain that brought in a 110 negative (much less than ¼ the size of a 35mm adverse) and wanted a really large print. The photo lab printed a actually sharp 3.5 x 5 inch print. I employed an RB67 (the unfavorable was virtually as significant because the print) and copied the print applying extension tubes AND close-up filters. The finish result was that this captain was able to utilize a 20 x 30 inch print as a instruction aid that he told everybody he shot from his little 110mm camera. In case you didn't currently know; most 5x7 inch prints appear bad coming from that size of camera. That's why it did not last really extended.

You are able to pick your solutions and accessories and make a decision just how close it also close for you. But try to remember this; regardless of how close you shoot the components of design still matter. You still really need to have balance. You nonetheless need to be conscious of leading lines. The rule of thirds is a thing for you personally to usually take into account. Becoming a great photographer is just not concerning the fancy gear you've or how close you'll be able to shoot. Becoming a terrific photographer also implies shooting subjects artistically.

hello! uhh i saw u @sabo last yr n i was digging through old photos and i saw ur table so hopefully this isnt too out of the blue? (if this question makes u uncomfortable pls just ignore) would you mind sharing how you make your prints and such? im tabling for the first time this september @ sabo and i dont realy know where to start.. ive never had to deal with printers and such before especially not like buttons/stickers/prints without (1/2)

“without investing in a better printer or button press or something? i feel like something is bound to go wrong considering its my first time doing something this big but any advice would b really much appreciated..! sorry about the sudden msg i hope u have a nice day !! :) 2/2”

HI absolutely not a bother at all!! And I’m sorry I’m only just responding to you!! But here is a comprehensive post in re: CONS because AA stuff is hard when you’re just figuring stuff out, and I’m still working on it myself. But I can definitely prevent you from making the same mistakes I did (like getting 11x14 prints for $9 each for my first con OTL)

First off, let’s talk prints.

Prints should always be the main event of your table, especially if it’s your first con. If you showcase your art style on a large scale, it is more likely to attract people to your table. You want to build your stock around the prints you choose to make.

Since saboten is the biggest anime con in AZ, you’re going to want at least a few (I would say at least 6!) 11x17 size designs for print. The less designs you have, the more of each print you should have. I like to have 12-15 print designs for each con, so i buy 8-12 of each depending on popularity. For really popular things, I like to have an upwards of 20. But since this is your first con, I would suggest you start with a smaller stock with about 10-15 of each one, 15 being for your most popular fandom!! A total stock of about 75 prints should be good, and I don’t think you would need more than that.

And while it’s a good idea to choose subjects that you like, it’s also important to choose popular fandoms and subjects. Voltron, Yuri on Ice, and Sailor Moon have been among my best selling subjects over the last year! I know people are also interested in Breath of the Wild, Overwatch, Final Fantasy, and MP100. Do your research in what’s up and coming in the next few months so you know what’ll have traction. It takes practice to understand, but also talk to friends, look on instagram to see what people are planning for cosplay, etc. For example, Voltron will have a lot of hype because of SDCC in July, so people will be excited for season 3, whenever it comes out in the next year. Cater to those people! The point is that you have to balance what you want to sell with what people want to buy. Also, it’s worth noting that generalized/group images sell VERY well because they appeal to more people.

Postcard sized prints are ALWAYS up to you, and feel free to make them individual characters or popular pairings–and how many you have is sort of just up to you. In my opinion, they don’t sell perfectly well. People are more interested in things they can either put on their wall or on their bags, so they aren’t as popular. Between 5-10 of each design should be acceptable. It’s also okay to make a smaller version of one or two of your anticipated larger best sellers (you can usually assume).

Now, where to order them from!

Catprint is absolutely the best place I have ordered prints from, and I prefer it to having them printed at Kinkos. They do absolutely any size, with different paper stocks, finishing options, and coating options. Holy customization, Batman! Plus, it’s cheap (especially if you manipulate a little. Not in a bad way, of course, but in a way that suits your needs). I like to order 11x17s on Matte Lightweight cardstock because they’re only $0.65 each and are sturdy and beautiful! For postcards, I arrange 5x7s/6x4s & 5x5s on an 11x17 file and cut them out with an industrial cutter when i print stickers and buttons at Kinkos, rather than ordering them (because for some reason they severely overcharge on postcard sizes). This is also a good idea if you want an irregular shaped print but want to save!

Also, make sure that you follow the file requirements that Catprint lists on their website–it’ll save you time and money!!

If you like, here is my referral linkfor catprint that will save you (and me!) 10$ when you order.

On to buttons and stickers!!

These are GREAT for first cons, especially because they are cheap for buyers and they can buy all their favorite characters or pairings!

For stickers, it is cheapest and easiest for me to buy unscored, matte label paper on amazon or ebay. And lots of it. I am still hacking through mine, even after using them for my stock, shipping labels, and freebies. I make all my stickers circles because I’m hard enough on my hands as it is and… uniquely shaped stickers sell exactly the same. So I own a 2.5" circle punch and make all my stickers 2.44" so there’s a white boarder. You can always fill them to be exact (and go over to about 2.6" for the design file), but i think they look finished this way, and if you miss the mark a bit, you won’t have any added whites on your design.

Buttons are certainly more complex, and it depends on whether or not you already have a machine. If you have one, don’t buy one unless your current one breaks. If you don’t have one, WAIT until you’re making good figures to buy an American made button maker. Chinese made machines are cheap, but pricey to fix and replace. American Button Machines are FANTASTIC (they’re what I use!) and use all metal fixings so that they’re basically guaranteed to last. But until you are making 2-5k per con, it’s not really worthwhile to buy a nice machine.

BUT! You CAN team up with other AA people local or otherwise (LIKE ME) who are willing to make buttons on their fancy industrial button makers and cutters (if you’re interested in this, I proof files, print them myself on no-bleed paper, and assemble the buttons myself. I also do proofs for $0.50 a button with no minimum and there’s flat shipping fees for under 100 buttons! I can set you up with my pricing for labor and materials if you like). This is very much so your cheapest option for buttons if you don’t already have a machine, as most companies charge more and have higher minimums per design.

My recommended size are 1.25" buttons. They’re not too small and they’re not too large! This is the only size I offer, but if you’re feeling specific I know places like PureButtons have great options and pricing.

You will certainly want to have lots of each sticker design. They sell very well, and people will even buy original designs of stickers if they’re cute enough! Buttons are a little more tricky, and it’s better to have less if you are ordering them, and better to have more options if you make them yourself. I don’t really sell more than 30 buttons at any con since it’s not my main focus. So choose wisely for button designs!

I know I went overboard with this answer, so please feel free to ask me more questions on ordering prints. This is mostly my process, but I hope I was able to help you at least a little bit!!! Let me know if you want help with displays, business cards, packaging, or con commissions. I’m happy to help !! ♥️

Weekly reflection 13-19 May 2018

I spent the weekend working non-stop on finalising all of my pinhole photographs so that they would be ready to be sent to the printers on Monday. Unfortunately, I underestimated just how much time it would take to clean all of the dust and scanner glass scratches off of the photos, so I wasn’t quite finished on Monday. As a result, I spent our 1:15-4:30 half-day in the studio finishing that up. I also decided to resize them from 5x7” to 4x6” for financial reasons, as 300 4x6” prints are only 10p each whereas 300 5x7” prints would be 21p each. Also, as there is a possibility that I might try to display all of the pinholes (both the positives and the negatives), on the outside of the camera obscura, it made more sense space-wise as well.

By the end of the day on Monday, I was able to print all of the images out onto A3 printer paper so that I could see 1) how they fit when simply plastered across the obscura, 2) so I could begin to get an actual visualisation of what they look like on the camera obscura and 3) so I could begin to assess and consider how best to display them for the exhibition and 3) So I could finalise which images to expose onto silk screens.

What I learned by doing this is that the wallpaper effect, whilst effective, also needs to be curated in a much more thoughtful manner than simply slapping them up – not that I really thought that would be an effective approach, but I thought it was worth a shot.

Anyhow, because of this discovery, I have decided that I definitely will not try to display all of the images. I need to see how they look and need to think about each individual portrait in terms of aesthetics, meaning and how they relate to my new theme of deterioration and fractured memory. Additionally, I also need to bear in mind the fact that there will be a lens poking out of the front of the Camera Obscura. As such, thought is required regarding how the lens will work alongside the pinholes that I eventually choose to display.

On Tuesday morning, as I was on the bus, I suddenly had an idea about how best to approach this…

I thought that it might look rather interesting to display the images in a smaller to larger spiral or simply an unorganised (but organised at the same time) expansion with the obscura lens as the centre, acting like an eye, which is exactly what a lens is, after all. How does the eye connect to the brain and how does the eye connect to our brain and how does our brain process what it sees? How do those images get stored? Why do some of them stay so poignant and strong whilst others fade away to nothing? And why do some of those images/memories suddenly reappear from the long forgotten ethers? What are the triggers? Why did some of my mother’s memories from her childhood and her time married to my father seem to stay with her until the very end whilst memories of myself and the rest of her children vanished into nothingness? This brings to mind a quotation from Margaret Atwood’s “Cat’s Eye” that I have thought about quite a lot over the past few years:

“You don’t look back along time, but down through it, like water. Sometimes this comes to the surface, sometimes that, sometimes nothing. Nothing goes away.”

That last sentence - “Nothing goes away” makes me think... Sure, but that doesn’t mean that memories, like time, resurface with true accuracy. Things often come back fragmented, twisted into a mixture of truth and fabrication, but we think that we are probably being accurate, even when we know that, logically, memory recall is rarely perfect and as such, inaccuracy is to be expected. We humans are so skilled at fooling ourselves, aren’t we?

Anyhow, back to Tuesday... I arrived at the college and began the day by printing out the four A3 images that I chose to convert into bitmaps for silk screens onto acetate. As there were no learning assistants available to expose the screens for me, I exposed the screens myself. I had spoken to the head learning assistant on Monday, and suggested that I do so when they told me I would need to wait until the afternoon to have them exposed by them.

The learning assistant told me that it would be alright for me to do the exposures myself given the fact that I have been present for so many tutorials about how to do it due to the fact that I have been working in the print room, and because I had been around for so many tutorials have coached several other students on higher-level courses (as well as one of the artists in residence) through the process from start to finish. 

Despite being fairly certain that I would do just fine, but given that I had never done it before, I approached the exposure process with caution and decided to expose just one screen all of the way through from start to finish – exposure, cleaning of the emulsion, drying of the screen and a short run of test pulls to be sure it had worked out. The result was good, so I went ahead and did the next three in one fell swoop, exposing the screen one after the other and storing them in the cupboard until the cleaning stage.

They all turned out - success!! Now, if only I had had learned how to coat the screens with emulsion… Actually, given the demand on the limited supplies, it’s probably good that I didn’t learn how to coat the screens with emulsion because the temptation to do so would have been very strong, especially on Wednesday when I discovered that the screen I used for my self-portrait wasn’t properly cleaned by the people who are supposed to clean the screens, and as a result had the ghost of someone else’s work on one side of it which was very annoying because there are no other screens that I can use, nor is there enough time even if there were.

Anyhow, I ended up pulling prints from 8:30 AM until 5:00 PM on Wednesday and then again from 8:15 AM until 8:30 PM on Thursday. I was very into what I was doing and forgot to take breaks. As a result, the physical toll of what I had done was very apparent on Thursday evening when I discovered that I could barely sit down in the car on the way home. Whoops!

The negative physical aspect aside, I at least think that I might have a couple of useable images for the exhibition… hopefully, anyhow. I have brought all of the work home with me so that I can give it all a proper go-through in private and away from the chaos of the studio. That, and having the work out of the studios during hanging week when the painting and sanding is still happening is far safer than keeping them at the college as there is no chance of them being ruined if they are not there. Seems like a logical idea to me at any rate.

Which brings me to Friday - I still needed to get the hole drilled for my camera obscura, so with the whole “measure twice, cut once” idea in mind, I found a compass and re-drew the diameter of my lens on paper. The fit was very tight, but I had my Dremel with me to sand it out a bit to make it fit properly. I then drew the final, 71mm circle on the side of the darkroom.

As I waited for the required power tools to be acquired from the woodworking department, I took the opportunity to dismantle the inside of the darkroom. I then applied spackling paste to the holes that were created by the screws and eyelets that I used when it was still in darkroom mode. The lecturer who was helping me drill the hole came around noon to begin drilling out the hole. Unfortunately however, the jigsaw that the woodworking department gave them had two dead batteries, so we put them on charge and went to lunch. When I came back from lunch, the hole had been cut – magic! I then donned a mask an goggles and sanded the hole with my Dremel until the lens fit snugly.

As I had previously feared, there was not enough light despite the fact that I was using a lens, so I went to the equipment room to check out this odd, 3000 lumens LED light that the college has available for checkout. Alas, even with the additional light, it still was not working.

I returned the to the equipment room and began a search for a frame that I could use for my Plan B - which is rear projection.

After finding a frame, I made a screen from tracing paper and went into the darkroom to test it. To my surprise, I found that the image was only in focus when it was just a few inches away from the back of the lens, so I decided to repurpose the lid of one of the pinhole cameras that I made and cut a square out to create a screen. The first attempt with the box lid was too close, so I used the deeper, bottom side of the box which was perfect.

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Hands-on: almost moment photofinishing direct from your cell phone Walgreens and Fujifilm are putting forth APIs that permit printing from photograph apps.

Walgreens and Fujifilm are focusing on cell phone clients with new frameworks that enable clients to request genuine photographic prints straightforwardly from an iOS or Android gadget. Both organizations propelled APIs this week that permit application designers to incorporate print requesting specifically from their photograph related applications. Fuji is designed to mail completed items to clients from a brought together lab, while Walgreens permits pickup from the closest of its 7,900+ Walgreens stores.

Camera-prepared cell phones have to a great extent supplanted smaller cameras for a wide assortment of clients, bringing about 10-20 percent yearly decreases in reduced camera deals for the most recent few years. While cell phones enable clients to effortlessly share photographs through interpersonal interaction locales like Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, and Flickr, getting photograph quality prints is normally the keep going thing on many clients' psyches.

That is a circumstance that Walgreens and Fujifilm would like to change. The APIs enable versatile designers to tap into each organization's photofinishing administrations, making it practically as simple as clicking a catch to get prints from your most recent "iPhoneography" gem.

"Something we see is that there are many altering applications out there for pictures that are on your cell phone," Pierre Blanchette, an item administrator with Fujifilm North America, told Ars. "Clients are investing a considerable measure of energy altering those pictures, so it's reasonable they are imperative to them. We think those pictures ought to be printed; we believe there's something about that substantial perspective that survey on a cell phone screen can't coordinate."

Fuji formally propelled its API this week, which binds into its discount photofinishing administrations. It has two modern style labs situated in Greenwood, South Carolina and Portland, Oregon, which until further notice handle all the versatile requests. Completed prints, and in addition photograph mugs, T-shirts, and different items, are delivered to the client straightforwardly. Blanchette disclosed to Ars that some of its retail accomplices are equipping to offer get benefits later on, however it's not here yet.

Walgreens likewise propelled an API for iOS and Android designers, which as of now is restricted to standard 4x6 prints and also 5x7 and 8x10 growths—what it calls "Snappy Prints." Approximately 50% of all Walgreens stores offer extra computerized photograph items like extended canvas prints and timetables, however those items aren't yet accessible to portable clients.

Walgreens' framework is as of now coordinated in a few applications in the iOS App Store, so I took a couple for a test drive. General I was satisfied with the outcomes, yet there are a couple points of interest that make the experience under ideal.One of the main applications to incorporate Walgreens' Quick Print administration is, obviously, the Walgreens application. The application incorporates things like versatile coupons, remedy refills, and access to photographs. Walgreens has since quite a while ago offered a "photograph collection" include by means of its site, and clients with a Walgreens record can choose those collections under the Photo tab. Be that as it may, clients can likewise get to their iOS camera roll and collections as well.Simply select in the vicinity of one and five photographs, and hit "Print." Those photographs will be transferred to Walgreens' servers. You can picked up to 100 photographs add up to, however just five at once. Walgreens Mobile Product Manager Joe Rago told Ars the "five pictures at any given moment" restrict makes the experience smoother, particularly for clients on 3G information associations. I need to concur; with most cell phones shooting pictures at 5MP or higher, transfer times more than 3G were frustratingly long.Once you've picked the pictures you need to print, the API enacts a standard Walgreens Quick Print interface that is indistinguishable for all applications (even on Android). Here you pick print measure (4x6, 5x7, or 8x10) and quality, up to 20 each. At that point you pick the closest Walgreens area, or you can on the other hand look by city, state, or postal district. At that point you enter your name, telephone number, and email address, and your request is rushed off to your Walgreens store of decision.

Evaluating for Walgreens administrations are institutionalized, with designers getting a little rate of the income that their applications produce. 4x6 prints are 29¢ each—a quite normal cost—while 5x7 extensions are $1.99 and 8x10 prints cost $3.99. You could most likely make prints somewhat less expensive at home, however you won't accomplish comparative outcomes unless you're utilizing the best inks and papers. (Fuji's API framework works a little in an unexpected way, since it works as a distributer—engineers are allowed to set their own particular costs, however Fuji has a "recommended" retail cost.)

One decent component is that you don't need to enter or store any Mastercard data to put in a request; you basically pay when you get your prints. That breaking points potential security issues and makes the requesting procedure brisk and easy.You'll get an email affirming your request, and additionally an estimated pickup time. Requests are typically finished inside a hour relying upon how bustling a specific store is. Rago said that circumstances can keep running as much as a couple of hours on overwhelming days, especially around occasions like Christmas. You'll likewise get an email ready when your request is prepared.

When I tried the administration amidst the day on a weekday, my request was done in around 30 minutes from the time I hit "Submit" until the alarm touched base in my iCloud inbox. The closest Walgreens is around a 10 minute stroll from my loft, making the administration particularly advantageous. (The same is valid all through a large portion of Chicago, however even my little Indiana main residence has different Walgreens areas to browse.)

I requested a few 4x6 prints, and in addition a modest bunch of 5x7 and 8x10 augmentations for examination. The greater part of the prints returned sharp and bright. My neighborhood store utilizes a Fuji Frontier computerized minilab machine, which prints on Fuji Crystal Archive paper—thought to be a portion of the best materials for "conventional" wet photograph handle printing. In case you're a stickler for quality, however, you might need to check with your nearby store and see what sort of hardware they are utilizing; a few labs are utilizing more up to date "dry process" gear, which is essentially a modern inkjet printer.Overall, I was satisfied with the prints. The requesting procedure leaves a bit to be wanted, however. You can just pick one print measure for every one of the pictures in a request, so in the event that you need various print sizes of a solitary picture, you need to make numerous requests. Trimming is done naturally, so there's very little control over the creation of the last print. This is somewhat of a nitpick, however entering your contact data over and again can get somewhat irritating; fortunately that information can be put away in an application and sent by means of the API.

One other proviso for Instagram clients—and I know there are a large number of you out there—is that square pictures presently are not upheld. Rago disclosed to us that Walgreens is working out the coordinations of setting up its lab gear to deal with 4x4" prints, be that as it may, so support will come soon. Meanwhile, square pictures are simply auto-edited to fit.

I additionally attempted one other application with Quick Prints bolster, called Pic Stitch. This application offers an assortment of multi-picture montage formats which you can load with your pictures. There are others like it that have a similar fundamental idea, so we won't get into particular elements here. Suffice it to state that you can browse 4x6, 5x7, and 8x10 sizes with an assortment of styles of montage. Include and orchestrate your photographs, look over some altering alternatives, and after that you can share your picture to informal communities or different photographs administrations. Or, on the other hand you can have your nearby Walgreens print the image.I made a basic three-picture montage at 4x6 size to test the coordination. Much the same as with Walgreens' own particular application, you pick your size, quality, closest store, and enter your contact information. Pic Stitch has a couple of supportive coordination highlights, which caution you in the event that you've picked a format that doesn't fit the proposed picture print estimate. What's more, it can alternatively store your name, telephone, and email information in the application to go alongside your requests, sparing a touch of typing.Overall, this gives off an impression of being a savvy proceed onward Walgreens' and Fuji's part. There is something instinctive about having a physical print of an advanced photograph that is not the same as review it on a screen, regardless of how acclimated to the practice we have all moved toward becoming. What's more, to be honest, the prints are superior to anything I can oversee on my generally great Epson multifunction printer at home. I couldn't test Fuji's administrations right now, however I do have related knowledge with its discount photofinishing items and expect the quality will be comparable. The comfort of requesting appropriate from a cell phone, in any case, makes me presume that I may print significantly a greater number of pictures later on than I have in the course of the most recent couple of years.