Multi-Season Prints & Motifs: Pinstripe

From left to right: Baum Und Pferdgarten AW2024 Soulland AW2024 À La Garçonne SS2017 Marc Jacobs SS2020 MSGM Pre-Fall 2023 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW2022 Salvatore Ferragamo AW2020 Saint Laurent AW2020 Alexander McQueen AW2023 Ziggy Chen AW2024 Menswear Moschino Pre-Fall 2023 Jeffrey Dodd SS2020 Jacquemus SS2021 Schiaparelli SS2023 Couture Munthe SS2021 Adeam SS2021

@toteme

this slide talks about the 'le garconne' which translates to the flapper girl and gives a summary how the term was used etc

The Roaring 20s

La Garconne

The phrase La Garconne originated from a novel created in 1922 which portrayed a fashionable heroine by the name of Monique who was portrayed to challenge current gender stereotypes. She did this through cutting her hair short, wearing men's clothing and giving birth out of wedlock. She became an inspiration to young women who aspired to dress and look like Monique, La Grconne came to be associated with the independence that women in the 20s were gaining.

However, in reality "La Garconne" became more of a derogitary term used towards women with loose morals.

The 1920s - part 2

The Look

Typical underwear of the 1920s

This advertisement for the new freedom corset helped women to achieve the flat shapes and less figure hugging look required to make the fashions of the 1920s look good on the every day woman.

The new stylish look of the 1920s

The Eaton crop was a revolution in hair styles.

Feathered headbands and turbans were the look of the era, they were often the image associated with the La Garconne / flapper look in which was inspired by the art nouveau style left over from the 1910′s and by the mid 1920′s. If you chose to wear one, you pushed it well back and lost the feathers. Sequined caps were also a big thing and heavily ornamented were also popular. Hat Fashion went side by side with hair styles. The big decision facing many women was to Bob or not to Bob, to Crop or not to Crop, or just play safe go with the Fingerwave style.

Menswear

The Prince of Wales was the ambassador for British fashion and fabrics across the world. 

In 1922, Fair Isle knits were made fashionable by the Prince of Wales when he wore one on the golf course at St Andrews. 

The Prince’s support of the Fair Isle sweater probably helped to save the knitting industry that remains to this day on the small Scottish island.

During 1925 the men wore ‘bum freezer’ length jackets. Here we see gentlemen at the races in the new relaxed jackets.

Sporting wear in England consisted of white flannel trousers and blazers. This was a very relaxed and elegant look.

The 1920s passion for dressing soft extended to fabrics as well as to patterns and colours, tweed was extremely popular. Often in gaudy checks and bright stripes.

1925 marks the year that Oxford bags were born, they replaced the slim trousers worn by most young men. For the next 30 years, loose fitting trousers would remain the fashionable fit. The image below shows the comfortable functional aspects of the original 28 inch grow to 40 inch.

Day wear may have become more relaxed but when it came to evening wear men where still expected to wear black tie and tails. Below we see a typical evening scene with men dressed in black dickie-bows and evening suits. This was a universal style adopted by all men which we still see today.

Rudolph Valentino was the heart throb of the silent movies and influenced the hairstyle shown below of American and English men. The look was achieved by soaking the hair and wrapping the head in linen bandages until it dried.

Men’s shoes came in a variety of styles and patterns – perfect for ‘cutting a rug’ in the roaring twenties (1925)

This was a great time for women as clothing became less restrictive, they were free from wearing corsets and was no longer a requirement. Hems lines were also raised and dresses became shorter, the change was significant - eliminated waist line, more skin showing, style lines, change in fabric and all about elegance. Jean Patou liberated the female figure and led a revolution in the fashion industry as he created sportswear for women which was highly practical. Television shows were influential to society ; La Garconne and The Great Gatsby - both quite scandalous. Women's freedom has significantly changed - a transition from women not being allowed to go outside alone to women feeling free to put makeup on outside in public. A hairstyle at this time which was the most popular was the Eaton cropped hair and it was very practical. Women would accessorise with headbands and turbans. Menswear also became more relaxed, however, pinstriped suits were very popular for occasion wear, knitwear, checks and bright stripes were often worn.

1920s La Garconne

La Garconne translates to "tomboy" or "the bachelor girl".

La garconne was a derogatory term for women and girls who dressed themselves in straight silhouette dresses and menswear such as as suits, shirts, jackets and ties, freeing themselves from restrictive corsets and social-expected silhouettes and lady-like behaviour. Cloche hats were also associated with the la garconne look. The "La Gorconne" term and fashion was believed to have from the novel La Garconne by Victor Margueritte. The novel was about a heroine, Monique Lerbier, who cut her hair short and wore men's clothing.

Designers such as Coco Channel began to design clothing for women based on menswear such as suits.

À La Garçonne SS2017

MARKETING UNIT 2

I decided to do my own research and look for images on pinterest that fit the theme for each era. I looked into finding images and colours that complement each other, this has helped my understanding of each era more.

THE VICTORIAN ERA

The fashion of the 19th century is renowned for its corsets, bonnets, top hats, bustles and petticoats. Women’s fashion during the Victorian period was largely dominated by full skirts, which gradually moved to the back of the silhouette. However, towards the end of the period, the less restrictive Aesthetic style began to emerge.

THE ROARING 20s

The fashion of the 20s The 1920s was a time for glamour, dresses were covered in beads and revealed more flesh than ever before To think 10 wears previously women dressed head to toe gowns with corsets.If you were in the night social ciass it was a time for partying and living life to the full. Society girls could be seen drinking, smoking and riding around in cars from party to party. La Garconne translates "the bachelor giri" or "the flapper*Cover of La Garconne (1922) by Victor Marquentte. The novel from which the fashionable look of the 1920s is belleved to have got its name. The illustration depicts the books scandalous heroine, Monique Lerbier, who cut her hair short wore men's shirts/ jackets and ties, and gave birth outside wedlock. In reality La Garconne at the time more of a derogatory term for women of loose morals newly liberated woman, freed from the ' Gibson girl' corsetry and S bend silhouettes of the Edwardian era, and the constraints on her lifestyle that such clothing, inflicted on her.Garconne look was evident primaniy in cut rather than fabric. The straight-cut the chemise dress was to become the dominant, line for day and evening wear. These fashionable young women from 1926 are wearing cloche hats and decorated drop waisted dresses with matching coats. The long string of pearts/beads was a must have. The Great Gatsby is a 1925 novel written by American author F.Scott Fitzgerald, the story primanly concerns the young and mysterious millionaire Jay Gatsby and his obsession for the beautifui Daisy Buchanan.The Great Gatsby explores themes of decadence, idealism, resistance to change, social upheaval, and excess, creating a portrait of the Roaring Twenties.(Roaring twenties influenced Ralph Lauren Gucci Maria garchvogel)

THE SWINGING 60s

The 60s are known as one of the most fashion conscious times in history. Styles that began in the decade have had a noticeable influence on the fashion today. Women’s fashion in the 1960s was full of change. Unlike the previous decades, the 60s were a time of emerging and diverse trends. From sophisticated and casual to bright colours and bold prints, the 60s embraced it all with stylish flair.

HARVARD REFERENCING

60s

Shrimpton J (1965) VOGUE WHERE THE ACTION IS [poster] available from All sizes | Vogue-June 1965 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! (Accessed: 28th November 2022)

Met S (March 1st 2022 photo from 1960s) 17 GROOVY HAIRSTYLES FROM THE 60S [POSTER] available from 17 groovy hairstyles from 1960s Teen magazine covers (metv.com) (Accessed: 28th November 2022)

White R (2019) 10 Gorgeous Ways to Jump on the 60s Beauty Bandwagon [poster] available from 10 Gorgeous Ways to Jump on the 60s Beauty Bandwagon (totalbeauty.com) (Accessed: 28th November 2022)

H&MUA T (2021) Women’s 1960s Makeup: An Overview [poster] available from Women's 1960s Makeup: An Overview - Hair & Makeup Artist Handbook (hair-and-makeup-artist.com) (Accessed 28th November 2022)

User P (N/A) WE HEART IT [poster] available from Discover vintage images on We Heart It (Accessed 28th November 2022)

Crisel H (2019) 16 Pictures That Prove Brigitte Bardot Is Still The Ultimate French Summer Style Icon [poster] available from Brigitte Bardot's Best Summer Style | British Vogue | British Vogue (accessed 28th November 2022)

THE VICTORIAN ERA

Charmaine Z (2013) Victorian fashion plate 37 [poster] available from Victorian Fashion Plate 37 | Charmaine Zoe's Marvelous Melange | Flickr (Accessed 28th November 2022)

Robert P (2021) London in 1901 - the End of the Victorian Era [poster] available from London in 1901 - the End of the Victorian Era - Hub Pages (Accessed 28th November 2022)

Centery R (2020) Women of The Victorian and Edwardian Era - Vintage Photography - 24-Trading Cards Set - NO Duplicates! Complete Set [poster] available from Women of the Victorian and Edwardian Era Vintage Photography - Etsy UK (Accessed 28th November 2022)

Alavezes N (2015) 23 Charming Photos That Prove The Victorian Era Had The Best Fashion [poster] 23 Charming Photos That Prove The Victorian Era Had The Best Fashion (Accessed 28th November)

THE ROARING 20S

(2015) womens street fashion of the 1920s [poster] Women’s Street Fashion of the 1920s ~ Vintage Everyday (Accessed 28th November 2022)

Hilary G P (2017) The Most Influential Fashion Trends, Decade by Decade [poster] Fashion by the Decades | Who What Wear UK (accessed 28th November 2022)

Women A (n/a) Womens accessory [poster] available from Women’s Accessories (wordpress.com) (accessed 28th November 2022)

Lombardi (2019) F. Scott Fitzgerald's Inspiration for 'The Great Gatsby' [poster] available from What Inspired 'The Great Gatsby'? (thoughtco.com) (accessed 28th november 2022)

THE ROARING 20'S

The 1920's were a decade of luxury and indulgence for many; however, there was a lot more to it than just wall street and flapper dresses.

FASHION OF THE 20'S 

Fashion in the 20's consisted of a lot of things. The main fashion statement of the 20's was the liberation of the corset, a very different thing from the past hundreds of years. As women were now starting to gain more rights thanks to the suffrage movement, many women did not want to be limited by the rigid corsetry of the Victorian era. 

Following the movement of more fredom of clothes in the 1920s, the sillouhette generally moved away from the hourglass steriotypical. Up until this point in history, many people now prefer a dropped wait line due to its versatility to different body shapes as it made everyone look great, as well as a shorter hem. This also allowed much more freedom for movement as women found they could now dance more freely as well as play many more sports. however just because these dresses were simple it does not mean they wasn't beautiful many techniques were used to create different effects which look absolutely gorgeous

Headware and hair also changed dramatically in the 1920s. Many people opted to wear hats such as chloche hats and bobbed hairstyles. This, I believe, came mostly from the insporation of La Garconne, the bachelorette, who went against almost all society standards of the previous era, getting pregnant out of wedlock, cutting her hair short, and wearing stereotypically manly clothes.

on this website it lists many other fashion trends of the 1920s in more depth.

Also in this video is shown some of the main fashion trends with more visually shown element's.

SUFFERAGETTES

The suffering movement started in 1840 and ended in 1920, but it really picked up the pace in the early 1900s. The suffrage movement was a movement by women for women focusing on gaining more rights, in particular the right to vote. 

A lot of traction for the women's rights movement came from WWI. This was because many women didn't have roles in the workplace, such as factories, etc., so when all the men were away at work, the women were needed to help run things back home while the men were at home. So when the war came to an end, many women decided that they didn't want to go back to their old lives where they depended on their husbands and, in fact, wanted to build a life for themselves and gain independence. 

One of the most famous suffrage protests was at the 1913 Epsom Derby. On this day, while the horses were racing, Emily Davison threw herself in front of King George's horse, Ammer. It is unclear whether Emily intended for the horse to hit her or for the horse to stop in another part of gaining attention for the rights, but either way, this was a tragic day and made many more people fight for women's rights, and women took a lot more seriously due to the public seeing the places they are willing to go to to get their rights.

In this video it shows the tragedy of which happened to suffragette Emily Davidson

this is another video which describes the acts of the suffragettes.

HARVARD REFERENCE

BBC News. (2018). Suffragettes: 100 years since women won the right to vote - BBC News. [Online]. YouTube. Last Updated: 6th February. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zbdskuuocpg [Accessed 11 March 2024].

The Guardian. (2013). Suffragette Emily Davison knocked down by King's horse at Epsom. [Online]. YouTube. Last Updated: 4th june. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qkU_imbFoE [Accessed 11 March 2024].

Glamourdaze. (2020). Roaring 1920's Fashion Trends - What Did Women Wear. [Online]. YouTube. Last Updated: 1st May. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hwxFc2rLIs&t=1s [Accessed 11 March 2024].

Vintage Dancer. (2019). 1920s Fashion & Women’s Clothing Trends. [Online]. Vintage Dancer. Last Updated: 25th june. Available at: https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-womens-fashion/ [Accessed 11 March 2024].

La Garconne.

La Garconne, also know as "the bachelor girl" or "the flapper," was a young woman known for wearing short dresses and bobbed hair and for embracing freedom from traditional societal constraints. However, at the time the term La Garconne was more of a derogatory term for women of loose morals, newly liberated woman, freed from the ‘ Gibson girl’ corsetry and S-bend silhouettes of the Edwardian era. Although by 1924, trousers were boudoir attire, pyjamas became a fashionable must have.

Makeup, Hair and the Accessories.

In general, women’s hairstyles in the 1920s aspired to be exotic and sleek, with hair worn close to the head, cutting the hair in tapered layers so that it would lie as flat as possible. If one had long hair, it was pulled back in a small, low chignon. However the main choice of bob for much of the 1920s was the 'shingle', a bob that covered the ears, but was cut shorter in a V-shape at the nape of the neck. 

Cosmetics counters were fast becoming the norm in ladies departments stores and pharmacies. The singular evening makeup look of the 1920’s was the cupids bow lips, heavily rouged cheeks and kohl shadowed eyes. In the daytime hours, it was now quite acceptable to wear lipstick. Makeup was now heavily marketed towards women and was to become a major industry.

As well as hair and makeup, accessorise such as hats played a large part in women's fashion of the 1920's. The classic hay of the roaring twenties was the cloche hat. Bell shaped with a side adornments of flowers, small feathers, and geometric designs topped women's heads during the 1920's. Other popular styles of the 1920's included wrapped turbans, the straw summer hat, bucket hat and various headwraps and headbands.