https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024/05/new-york-a-sartorial-city-guide.html

New York: A menswear shopping guide

The Difference Between a $400 and $8,000 Suit

Buzzfeed is known for their formulaic, clickbait content, but this video comparing $400 suits to $8,000 suits is ... actually pretty good?

To be sure, there’s a lot of marketing fluff here. And the two hosts don’t really get into the nitty gritty details of what separates ready-to-wear to made-to-measure to bespoke. (The answer is more complicated than bespoke giving you a custom fit, especially with the massive range in quality within each of these categories). That said, they’ve picked good companies to cover a range of options, and even with the fancy videography at each store, you can see the difference in fit. 

Suitsupply, a brand we often recommend here for entry-level suits, does exceptionally well in the value category. If you have less than $1,000 to spend on a suit, this should be your first stop. Articles of Style is one of the many online companies nowadays offering made-to-measure, and while we’re generally skeptical of online custom tailoring for anything beyond dress shirts, their system of giving customers try-on garments helps take out some of the uncertainty. 

Leonard Logsdail is clearly the best of the bunch. You can see how well the jacket fits -- no puckering or wrinkling. Logsdail gave the host a jacket with slightly extended shoulders, fuller chest, and shaped back, which help give the illusion of a more athletic figure. The pants, which are the hardest part to get right, actually fall cleanly in the back (note the wrinkles behind the legs on the other two). 

You can also see the payoff when you stick to a more classic silhouette -- a buttoning point that hits your waist, a jacket that ends where it should, and trousers that neither fit too tight nor sit too low. It can be hard to buy suits like that off-the-rack because most people want fashion forward silhouettes (which look better on models than they do the average Joe). 

Bespoke suits don’t have to cost $8,000. Entry-level price here in the US is about $3,000, depending on where you go. Still, that’s a lot of money for a suit and not all good tailors are the same (you may not like some tailor’s particular style). It’s hard to get ready-to-wear suits to look as good as bespoke, but it’s helpful to train your eye for things such as fit and silhouette, so you know where to compromise. Having a good eye also helps you actually get a suit that’s right for you, rather than buy things based on prestige or marketing mumbo jumbo. 

To celebrate Kith’s 10th anniversary, owner Ronnie Fieg reprises his ongoing partnership with New Balance on the newly-introduced RC 1300 model. This new sneaker serves as an updated version of Fieg’s very first project with New Balance as it represents where Kith has been and where the brand is headed.

The RC 1300 is reimagined in Kith’s signature color palette of canvas and dusty mauve tones. These colorways are seen across a mesh and pigskin suede upper with original 1300 color-blocking and construction. The side panels feature the classic ‘N’ logo layer with Kith’s monogram debossing, while a Pegasus logo, a nod to the brand’s ten years, is embroidered on the lateral toe of the left shoe, with ‘NB’ branding on the right.

Continuing with original 1300 design elements, this silhouette features a revamped ENCAP Reveal sole unit, which highlights the model’s progression since the 1980s. Alongside, a Vibram outsole is added for increased traction and a rugged look. Additional co-branding is seen on the tongue and insole, depicting Kith’s Pegasus graphic alongside an ‘NB’ branding while the heel features and italicized Kith debossing on the left shoe, with Fieg on the right. Lastly, special packaging is comprised of a tri-color box with co-branding at the center.

The campaign for this partnership highlights diverse masters of their craft across a range of professions. These people include actor Michael Madsen, musician Ryan Leslie, chef Nobu Matsuhisa, artist Daniel Arsham, designer Martine Ali, bespoke tailor Leonard Logsdail, ceramist Lucy Park, and NYC chess aficionado Anthony Williams.

The Ronnie Fieg for New Balance RC 1300, which retails for $165, is now available at all Kith shops and kith.com.

GET THE STRAP

18 OCTOBER 2018

1. Vintage Sullivan & Woolley Black Velvet Smoking Jacket

2. Leonard Logsdail Bespoke Green Corduroy Pants

3. Suitsupply Green Linen Double Breasted Jacket

4. Fear of God x Misfits Cutoff Tee Shirt 

5. Chanel Bottle Green Velvet Quilted Smoking Loafers

6. Vor Germany White Low Top Trainers

7. Yeezy Frozen Yellow Boost 350

8. Sartoria Formosa Hardy Minnis Tweed Jacket

9. Ann Demeulemeester Nappa Leather Trucker Jacket

10. 10Sei0Otto Black Shearling Asymmetrical Coat

NOW LIVE

Last week I spoke on a panel about “The Future of Custom Clothing” hosted by the @ctdausa and our friends @gladsonltd in NYC. • Here are some snippets. • “It was a provocative discussion on the future of custom clothing in America at the CTDA show in New York last week, as top custom clothing experts discussed the challenges and opportunities of this business. I had the privilege of moderating; the panelists were: • Leonard Logsdail – Owner and Bespoke Tailor, Leonard Logsdail • Dara Lamb – Designer and Owner, Dara Lamb Atelier • Angel Ramos – Chief Creative Officer, 18th Amendment • Peter Roberti – Owner, Adrian Jules Retail • Trevor Shimpfky – Vice President, Paul Stuart • Emily Reuter – Director of Custom Clothing, Trunk Club • Dan Trepanier – CEO and Creative Director, Articles of Style • Among the most heated topics: Is the entry of affordable made-to-measure clothing a good or bad thing for the industry? Should custom clothiers ask for references? Does custom need to be about suits or is there potential in custom casual? How important is social media to promote custom? Are consumers more inspired by high-impact visuals or by educational storytelling? How do clothiers retain product integrity with today’s race to the bottom in price?” • ✂️🇺🇸💯✂️🇺🇸💯✂️🇺🇸💯 • #FutureCustom #Panel #Discussion #Custom #CustomClothing #Tailoring #Bespoke #MadeToMeasure #Menswear #MTM #Suit #MadeinAmerica #ArticlesofStyle (at Conrad New York Midtown) https://www.instagram.com/p/B76gh1jlRxq/?igshid=17t88f8bjliij

BIG GUYS! LEONARD LOGSDAIL nyc london GREEN TWEED COAT 48 us 60 eu

http://dlvr.it/QxxWK6

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/04/the-history-of-new-york-bespoke-tailoring-an-introduction-with-bruce-and-alan.html

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan

With my friend, Tailor Leonard Logsdail and our mutual client, Richard Casavechia, in Len’s atelier today. (at New York, New York)

Gift in My Hands: Leonard Logsdail’s Story

If you’re not familiar with the name Leonard Logsdail, you’re sure to be familiar with his work. The NYC-based bespoke tailor has made clothes for films such as The Wolf of Wall Street, The Great Gatsby, The Good Shepherd, Frost/ Nixon, and my favorite, American Gangster (see this unique suit on Denzel Washington, which is cut with a horizontal peak lapel style that some British tailors call a “sidewalker”). He’s also the subject of this new film, Gift in My Hands. A fun mini-documentary on one of the best bespoke tailors in the world. 

For more of Logsdail, check this clip from the second season of our web series, where Leonard talks with Jesse about what goes into making a suit. 

$399 Suit Vs. $7,900 Suit

$399 Suit Vs. $7,900 Suit

“I’d like a suit for my wedding…” Special Thanks To: Leonard Logsdail https://www.leonardlogsdail.com/ Articles Of Style Dan Trepanier & Will Howe https://www.articlesofstyle.com/ SuitSupply Nish De Gruiter https://www.suitsupply.com/ In Worth It: Lifestyle, a spin off of BuzzFeed’s hit series Worth It, host Steven Lim and his…

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A new article is now online here at timelessman.com.au. The second fitting of the bespoke sport coat with Leonard Logsdail in New York, with Bruce Boyer joining us. 

Leonard Logsdail

Leonard Logsdail fitting over Skype.

Seldom Seen Together Things.

Mr. Logsdail and Mr. Wooster.

https://wordpress-996520-3726858.cloudwaysapps.com/2023/04/the-history-of-new-york-bespoke-tailoring-an-introduction-with-bruce-and-alan.html

The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan