This might be an unpopular opinion regarding the recent Ninja banner but I honestly think that Beruka would’ve been more fitting for this banner since the recent Ninja banner consists of Wyvern Riders.

Also, the reason why Beruka would’ve fitted more is asides from being a wyvern rider, she’s a professional assassin for one and she just gives me ninja vibes.

What do you think?

Nah, I don't think that's unpopular, I think that's actually a way better choice than Camilla getting a ninth alt.

... Like holy shit, Camilla has nine alts. Ugh.

I personally feel like the "Wyvern Ninja" theme was too restrictive as it was anyways, because that's such a limited number of Heroes to choose from. I guarantee they just wanted an excuse to put Camilla on the banner and everyone else was just an after-thought. Like I've been waiting for YEARS for Ninja Shura, especially because he was a legitimate ninja in Fates who was professionally trained to serve the royal family. It would be AMAZING to see him as a ninja!

... But sorry, yeah I got side-tracked. Anyways you're right, Beruka would have been the superior choice. Given that she can support with Saizo and has a background in assassination, seeing her in ninja garb would have been awesome. She's been in since day one like Cherche, but still hasn't gotten her alt yet. Plus her getting to enjoy a festival would be great for her character.

How To Convert FLAC To MP3 Using VLC

If you might want to convert FLAC to MP3 in Mac OS X totally free, one of the best ways to take action is utilizing a utility called All2MP3. Load FLAC recordsdata into SoundConverter. In the main window, click on Add File so as to add a file or Add Folder so as to add a folder of FLAC information. The files are added to the SoundConverter listing. The application starts the conversion the instant you add the FLAC files. You will notice the progress bar which tells you the progress of the present conversion and flac2mp3 how many FLACs are in the queue preparing to be converted. As soon as the conversion is complete, you will be able to search out the converted files within the location folder you have got set or the default authentic folder. In terms of high quality, FLAC vs. MP3, FLAC always wins. What does it really imply? Does higher high quality at all times imply better sound? The answer might be each yes" and no". Effectively, you will notice a clear distinction while you take heed to music in your FLAC information. However, it is solely doable if you use an acceptable sound system and good headphones. However, if somebody does not have any of them (better sound system and headphones) and using low-cost headphones for listening FLAC files, FLAC will sound just like MP3 to them. That's the reason some individuals assume that there is no such thing as a actual distinction between FLAC and MP3 they usually choose over FLAC as measurement of MP3 is smaller and the quality can also be similar! You'll be able to easily understand that there is hardly any distinction between FLAC and MP3 when you're not utilizing a very good sound system and excessive-high quality headphones. As a superb and free FLAC converter, SUPER might be the primary selection, you possibly can convert FLAC to many other audio format, like: AAC, AC3, AMR, flac2mp3 APE, flac2mp3 and so on. At the similar time, you can also load other audio formats and convert them to your required audio format easily. FLAC stands for Free Lossless Audio Codec , an audio format just like MP3, but lossless, which means that audio is compressed in FLAC with none loss in high quality. This is just like how Zip works, except with FLAC you'll get a lot better compression as a result of it is designed specifically for HD audio. Download AudioConverter Studio setup package to a known location. After download is full, launch this system and follow instructions. WMA information may be encapsulated within an ASF, or Superior Systems Format, container file. ASF gives metadata, much like ID3 tags in MP3 recordsdata, and should include digital rights management to limit your potential to play your music. Step 3 - Choose the Profile" menu button and click the MP3" output option. Then, click the Browse" menu button to pick the vacation spot folder to save converted files. 2. Just select the output recordsdata like MP3. You possibly can add as many FLAC information as you want from the native arduous drive, and all of them can be batch converted once you hit the convert button. File names can be retained, only the file extension adjustments to the selected format. MP3 stands for Movement Image Specialists Group Layer 3, which is a digital compression algorithm for audio file. The mp3 file might be over 10 occasions smaller when compared to a raw supply file. At the moment, the MP3 file format is the preferred musical file formats on the planet. On Home windows and Mac libflac is used to import and export FLAC but on Linux libsndfile is used by default to import FLAC. Importing utilizing libsndfile allows FLAC recordsdata to be imported and operated on more quickly using On-Demand Loading To import using libflac, select the "FLAC information" filter when using Open or Import, or set a rule in Prolonged Import Preferences to all the time use libflac whatever the import technique. Fortunately, audio file compatibility with DJ software program has become less of a priority in recent times, though there are still some things to be careful for. Of the 11 software program titles I looked over—9 deck-model DJ applications plus Ableton Reside and iTunes—7 of them supported all the principle audio codecs. FLAC to MP3 Converter not only converts any FLAC audio file to the very popular MP3 format, but in addition convert WMV, MKV, AVI, 3GP, FLV, SWF, F4V to your need audio format like FLAC, WAV, WMA, AAC, ALAC, AC3, AIFF, AMR, AU, MP3, MP2, M4A, MKA, OGG. Totally free FLAC to MP3 converter immediately converts massive FLAC to MP3 so as to take extra music on the same media. 3After that, click "Convert" to begin to change FLAC to MP3 in your Mac. MP3 is the most used format when it comes to recognition to listen to music and practically all multimedia gamers and audio gadgets help MP3 playback so that the listeners can take pleasure in from anywhere they love to. That's the reason, you may easily convert the FLAC to MP3 format and it is in all probability the perfect resolution, which is able to your music playable in more units and save you space as well. Select the profile with the specified file format from Convert". The default setting is Common, movies for Windows MediaPlayer" which helps all MP3 players, but different predefined profiles are additionally available, for example: WMA or AAC. And so does the time to convert FLAC to MP3. Just think about it for a second. At a time a file is being converted you're literally killing a few of your most favourite artist's work of life. Instead, you may cherish and be respectful towards the sound. It's best to preserve what truly is there as an alternative of creating it even worse by slicing greater frequencies and including digital artifacts to the sound just since you don't wish to wait a minute or two.

The largest drawback to this program is which have to buy the Infinite Pack to transform audio information which might be longer than three minutes. Freemore FLAC to MP3 Converter is totally free to make use of. It comprises no adware, adware or some other malicious parts. It is one hundred% clear and reliable to put in and run. What's more, with the comprehensible UI, anything can be found in seconds. With tutorial instruction, even novices can do the conversion just by clicking buttons. As scottro urged, ffmpeg is probably the device you need, as a result of it normally preserves the metadata from the flac file and transfers it to the mp3-file. Simply be aware of the bit-price setting of ffmpeg, that I believe is lower than optimum by default.For those who solely have just a few small information to convert, we suggest utilizing one of the free packages we reviewed. The benefit of spending $30 on audio conversion software is the ability to convert a large number of information shortly. Audials Tunebite is $40, which is the costliest software we tested, but it will probably report streaming audio and video companies and converts more than forty import formats. Download and run the Movavi Video Converter set up file, and comply with the on-display instructions to set up the app.

Okay.  Okay, I don’t know why, but I want to talk about some of my perceived differences between Singles and Doubles battles in Pokemon, and why these differences are such a pain in the ass.

In Doubles play, switching is not exactly a common occurrence.  You switch sometimes, but mostly you stick with what's on the field and allow the dynamics of your team to play out.  But in Singles?  Switching is constant.  It's a constant battle to make sure you have a strong match-up against opponents, in order to either get a really good hit in, or to set up your sweeper.  The name of the game is finding ways to bait out and eliminate a strong counter to your inevitable sweeper, or to find the best combination of defensive Pokemon to stall out everything in the game.  It's actually the facet I enjoy best.  I'm not gonna front here: I suck at Doubles because I honestly don't know how to get Pokemon to hold just the right setup moves and attacks to make effective use of a team.  But putting together something based on type matchups and trying to work around something that answers your win condition is understandable and straight-forward.  It's a much, much simpler way to play, and as someone who has a full time job and takes extra college classes, I do not have time to learn the subtle intricacies of Doubles play.  I just want to stick with Singles.  Which is why I hate the need for switching.

On its own, it's fine, but the game is not built around this.  The Pokemon Company has very clearly and decisively made Doubles their standard format. Singles play will happen in some online competitions, but that's about it.   Doubles is the way they want people to play, and it's the format they have in mind when they make decisions.  As a result, there are a ton of issues for Singles play that just don't show up at all in Doubles.   Starting with Stealth Rock.

Regardless of what I can find out in terms of how many Pokemon are weak or resistant to this god-forsaken move, I will never concede that it's fine as-is.  Because it's easy to set up and can deal so much damage so consistently to things, I feel it's a problem.  But it's biggest issue is simply longevity.  One use, and it's on the field forever, which creates problems because of the Singles meta and the reliance on switching.   Something that takes neutral damage and has no way to heal gets 8 switch-ins.  Something with a 2x weakness gets 4.  This isn't so bad when you have, say, Mega-Zard-X, who is generally a lead or win-condition designed to only switch in once as it aims to end the game.  But for defensive Pokemon with a weakness, they may as well be useless.  Which is why you don't see many Ice types in standard play.

Which leads to point #2: certain set-up moves just don't have the same impact in Singles as in Doubles, because you have to switch.  Let's take Ice type again. So often, their stats are geared toward higher defense and low-to-moderate speed.  In Doubles play, that affords them some bulk, and with the right support, you either get evasion boosts to buff the tanky aspect, or Tailwind to double speed to have more of an offensive presence.  Probably both.  And with Aurora Veil, you now double defenses as well.  In a Doubles format where all that can be set up in literally one turn and last for up to 8, you basically have all of that running for most if not the entire game.  But in Singles it doesn't work that way. You have to switch around to set up, and Stealth Rock will shave off 25% of your HP unless you have a favorable secondary typing, and with 4 weaknesses you run the risk of just losing something outright if you switch around too much. Singles is a more long-term-minded meta.   Doubles is instant.  Most matches seem to be over in a few turns.  But Singles?  I think the average number of turns for me measures around 40, while some of my longer matches have gone for 150-200.  Setting up moves that only last 5-8 turns in a format like this can be helpful, but ultimately doesn't have the same level of impact, and a type that could potentially benefit from all of these effects cannot do so in a Singles format.  Unfortunately, a buff in Singles would carry over to a buff in Doubles as well, and then you might argue they're too strong in Doubles.  So they do have to make a choice.  It's just unfortunate that Doubles gets priority.

The same can also be said for Grass types and status play.  Grass types have access to the spore moves, which gives them the ability to use almost every status in the game.   This includes the perfect accuracy sleep move Spore, and access to moves like Leech Seed which can confer recovery.  Adding in the setup abilities above, and Grass types...don't face the same level of difficulty. This doesn't prevent them from being considered the worst type in the game by some due to their myriad weaknesses and very limited offensive presence, but it's not as significant in Doubles as it is in Singles.  Why?  Because sleep in Doubles is stupid powerful.  The game moves so quickly that putting an opponent to sleep for 2-3 turns is like 25% of your match, and removing one of their attackers entirely while you retain two gives you an unholy advantage. Sleep itself then becomes a problem for getting any changes for Grass types, because to the Doubles metagame, it's balanced.  You don't have great offensive presence, and your defenses are shoddy at best due to 5 common weaknesses.  But given how sickeningly strong sleep is, and the fact that Grass types have the best moves to inflict it, they're considered balanced, in a sense. But again, that only really accounts for Doubles, and the fact that the game allows you to put as many things to sleep at a time as you want.  Which...far be it from me to agree with Smogon, but I think they're making a good call with Sleep Clause.  When you remove the ability to put everything to sleep, it's really transparent how limited Grass types are.

But getting back on track, the other issue for Singles is boosting moves.  In Doubles, you need something to specifically help a setup sweeper, because two attacks per turn, along with moves that hit both opponents, makes it dangerous to use a turn to boost.  So boosting moves, in Doubles, doesn't carry the same weight.  But in Singles?  Getting to an answer to that sweeper requires a turn to switch, which in some cases is why a Pokemon is so dangerous. Mega-Salamence was banned super hard for this exact reason. If you didn't have your answer on the field when it hit, it was going to boost and it was GOING to kill your team.  In Doubles?  Ice is common enough that, with two attackers, odds are you've got something in place.  It really doesn't have the opportunity for boosting.  What happens as a result is that boosting is how the Singles metagame is played, and I'm honestly not a fan of that because it's super easy to nab boosts as your opponent tries to play defense, while there are nowhere near the same variety of boosting defenders.  Your base stats are significant, but not as significant as whether you're able to boost effectively, and that's kind of stale.

This also bleeds into the issue with status, where in Doubles, missing a status move means death, but hitting a status move means you've effectively removed that Pokemon for good because the match is so short, and switching so ill-advised.   It's a risk, but one you can recover from because you have a backup on the field, and the opponent isn't going to run the risk of boosting in the face of both a status user and another attacker.  But when it's just the status user?  You'll take that risk.  You'll take it no problem.   Hell, I myself have kept Mega Mawile in against Will-o-Wisp users and just Swords Danced the attack reducing effect away and kept sweeping their team, because there's really nothing to stop me from doing so.  If they miss, great, I'm now twice as strong.  If they hit, there is no significant detriment to my attack, I just take a bit of residual damage each turn now.  As a result, in Singles play, boosting moves carry such a significant weight that it outclasses the status effects meant to shut those boosts down, and it's largely because there's not a secondary threat present to prevent them from boosting freely.  Essentially, the difference is that the accuracy check in Doubles means you might lose your Pokemon, while a miss in Singles means losing the entire match.

Then...the biggest annoyance.  Volt Switch and U-Turn.  In Doubles play, these moves...do they even exist?  If they do, I imagine their use is one of a last-ditch effort to get the hell out of a really bad matchup, but the switch-in might die instantly so I can't imagine they get used.  In Singles, though?  Switching in to something that can clearly tank the hits of the current threat on the field is piss easy.  So these moves are exceptionally powerful and dangerous in a Singles format, while in Doubles they barely do anything or actively get you killed.  On its own, this is just a matter of one move being better depending on the format, which happens a lot.  But it's not that simple, because it's not JUST the effect that sucks.  It's the damage.  Volt Switch and U-Turn are really strong moves.  Base 70 damage is respectable in any format.  So now, you have a move with an effect that is incredibly good in Singles play, to the point using it can shift you from a bad position into a safe one, but it also allows you to deal consistently high damage, to the point that entire strategies are built around doing nothing but using fast Pokemon with these moves to run circles around the opponent. It's gotten worse with Tapu Koko around to buff Volt Switch 50%.  The end-result is that these two moves are as gods among the Singles metagame, with virtually nothing to stop them.  It's why I think Scarf Lando-T is such a massive threat: it's stupid fast and will just U-Turn out if the opponent is so much as suspected of having an offensive answer to it.  And with Mega-Manectric, those two cycle around doing a decent job of checking each other's weaknesses, while also getting double Intimidate factor to shut down physical offense.  While all other aspects (Except Stealth Rock) you could argue are a matter of choosing between balance in Singles or Doubles and the company choosing Doubles, these moves have no justification for still being so powerful.  Nerfing them to 20 base damage would do nothing to Doubles, but would free up Singles by allowing teams on the defensive end of this godawful strategy to at least not take significant damage from every hit.

The point of all this is just to catalogue the differences I have noticed from being forced to play Doubles for some of the competitions, and the things that stand out as easily-identifiable problems for Singles players that may not be noticeable in Doubles format.  I know there are people who probably see me raving like a lunatic and wonder what the hell I'm talking about, and I'd be willing to bet it's because they are typically playing in Doubles.  I'm sure Doubles has its own set of issues.  Major tournament teams don't all look the same for no reason.   But I wanted to point out some of the differences so those who may be more inclined to Doubles can at least understand why these things are such a big deal for me, the idiot who can only really play Singles.

Ultimate Set of the 7 Best Bug Out Bags [Backpacks of 2020]™

The Rush72 is a 55-liter backpack that offers a lot of storage space, numerous organizational pouches, well-padded band, and a wrap-around MOLLE system for adding accessories. The pack is constructed of durable, water-resistant 1000D nylon, rendering it well-equipped to endure in difficult conditions. Additionally it is hydration-ready and includes self-healing zippers (so you won't have to struggle with any mismatched zipper teeth) that produce accessing the various pockets a quick and easy affair. The back pack was specifically made to carry everything you need to complete a 72-hour timeframe, rendering it the perfect option for recreational use and catastrophe preparedness as well. We also specifically narrowed down packages that provide a variety of compartments and organizational systems.

This enables you to generate plenty of potable water both on the go even though ceased for the night. The machine is with the capacity of removing 99.9999% of bacteria and 99.9% protozoa in the water, while also filtering particulates as well. That’s enough to earn it the Path Base authorization from the U.S. On top of that, it means that you’ll have access to a continuous supply of safe normal water at fine times. You can’t have a insect out handbag if you don’t have the right bag, and 5.11 Tactical makes some of the best for use in military, wilderness, and survival situations.

Just like the man discussing ammo, when the SHTF you will see ammo on the floor, along with weapons. So pack your bags, prepare, but learn to survive without all these items which will go out if extended amount of time in the bush is required. Again KNOWLEDGE. But I agree basic survival items are good to have packed. Choosing clothing for your insect out handbag is an extremely customized selection as we all have different body types, tolerances and levels of fitness.

I am also a wheelchair user which can be somewhat of an edge because I won’t be carrying the bag the way most people have to. I used to be actually quite impressed with the marketing video. The survival was put by The developer priorities in the right order. Way too many times companies play off dread and say that food is priority.

It is simply the coolest little display light you can purchase. Staying dry, hydrated and warm are certain to get you though 5-7 times. You need to be planing a trip to a source stash you have previously positioned.

If food were ever a huge problem, I would try placing a live snare ( for legal reasons) and either take my crossbow or the air pistol and dispatch any cat the trap caught. I’m in the kill and suburbs traps are unlawful because they worry about people getting injured.

Also, the list it was included with included Evasion and Escape items. They are the only company I have seen which includes that category. See expert’s checklist of survival medical kit items, which map right to the same three-level model for your bug out handbag. The weights used in this guide derive from that list, including common containers used for each size. Packing a bug out bag can seem overwhelming as the task of remembering something important can be challenging.

That’s why every bug out bag needs a good filtering and MSR’s Trail Base Water Filtration system Package is one of the very most versatile around. Not only will the kit include the company’s lightweight and effective TrailShot microfilter, but it also includes a larger gravity filter for use at the campsite too.

I really do leave food for the kitty colony sometimes so hopefully they might trust me somewhat which would make it simpler to use this insurance coverage. The crossbow came with steel arrows so definitely enough to stop anyone who's aiming to make off with my drinking water supply unless they have firearms of course. One benefit to utilizing a wheelchair is that I think most people would assume that they might not meet level of resistance and therefore feel less of a need to bring hands to attempt to raid my stuff.

There are several checklists out there that will tell you the fundamental items you should keep in your bug out bag. You can buy an loaded Bug away Bag already, such as this one here- Urban Survival Bug Out Handbag, which contains necessities items like food, water, and a first aid kit. You can also check out our Bug Out Handbag Checklist and personalize your bag yourself. A bug out handbag isn’t just something used by crazy survivalists.

This is bug out bag and most people can’t bring 90 Pounds of shit on their back.You will be told by me if you put everything listed on this site I could not carry it. Being prepared, you could write all day in what to have and pack. Knowledge and the methods to apply it are the most crucial thing you will need. We didn’t go with tons of equipment, we discovered to live using what we're able to find.

Joining up with many people you can trust and hang with also needs to be previously planned out. As i select items for my BOB I am accumulated weight. I’m choosing somewhat high quality stuff as to not have factors break within the first calendar year of use also if I can, getting Military services Surplus gear. Anyways, this gets heavy…with of course food, water, clothing, and shelter being the majority of the weight.

Hard to know where to begin It’s, but if you cover all the fundamentals in a survival situation you will still be far better off than 99% of the individuals. the bag I got came with an enormous list and video lessons and 12 Molle modular packages. Do most bug out bags include video lessons about packaging and bugging out? That was part of how I could convince my children to obtain it for me.

A bug out bag is a handbag designed for everyone, and even the United States Federal government advises you to have at least three days-worth of water and food on hand at all times. Pak-Lite nine volt flash light is last and small a long time.

MREs are tricky because although they include all you need (including an internal ‘cooker’ rather than external boiling water), they aren't space and weight efficient for the nourishment you get. It’s telling that many military vets don’t bring MREs as their major food choice in a insect out bag. Finding clean normal water can be considered a serious challenge whilst travelling in the backcountry or immediately following a major disaster.

The items listed here are to be strategically layered to keep up a healthy body temp at all times. For someone not used to being truly a Survivalist, building your first Insect Out Handbag can appear like a large task. Everybody you find out about has been tweaking theirs for months or even years and has a pile of gear built up.

I mean I’m not half way down the list and I m already packaging more equipment than the Marines bring. I love all the POSITIVE help and ideas for my BOB. Please retain in mind folks that the basics like water, proteins, instant shelter , first aid and protection will be needed if we are pressured to get away from our homes always.

Although they were like the type of lessons could need to pack a bag anyone? I don’t have a crossbow and the list recommends a certain type of air pistol for silently hunting small game. I currently know in which a colony of crazy cats live near my home.

A survivalist will see ways to make it possible to have, carry, today find those items even if we use a tool thats used diferently inside our lives. Eventually all the things we devote our BOBs will run out and have to be changed so retain in mind our set up on these bags is to keep us alive long enough for us to figure out how to live from the land, as they say. What events would cause us to become instant survivalists? My plan is for us to bug out together and stay together which means we are carrying different things to keep each handbag weight down for long distance more info travel. Pamela there are numerous great sites out there that will answer each one of these relevant questions for you.

Modern cameras are pretty amazing, and most of the time, all you have to do is set the exposure to an automatic mode, point the camera, and click, and the exposure turns out pretty well. But then sometimes, it doesn’t. Learning how to fix those exposure problems (and better yet, predict them) is one of the major steps to being a photographer, not just a person with a camera. Luckily it’s very easy once you understand a couple of basic things. This article assumes you’re using an automatic exposure mode (Auto, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or any of the beginner modes on the camera’s mode dial, like Sports, Portrait, Landscape, etc.).

Your Camera Expects Grey

Suppose you’re taking a picture of a plain black wall. Your camera doesn’t know what tone it is (light or dark); all it knows is that a certain amount of light is reflecting from it and reaching the light meter in the camera. Is that amount of light coming from a dark wall with bright light shining on it? Is it coming from a white wall with dim light shining on it? Both could produce the same reading from the light meter. So what does the camera do?

The camera plays it safe and just sets an exposure that makes it appear grey.

[/media-credit] A black cat in front of a black wall, a white cat in front of a white wall. Your camera will make them all grey, usually.

In fact, automatic light meters have been working on the same assumption for as long as they’ve existed: most people take pictures of middle-toned things most of the time.

And it’s a pretty safe assumption, as we know from how well our cameras have been able to expose photos for the past several decades. Most landscapes are mid tone. Most people’s skin and clothes average out to be mid-tones. Most buildings and streets and objects are mid-tones.

[accordion] [item title=”What About Color?”]For the sake of simplicity, I’m just going to talk about black and white in this article. In the past, that’s how light meters for cameras worked: simply detecting whether incoming light was bright or dim, not registering color. Similarly, digital camera sensors also only record monochrome brightness values, they just do it in three separate channels that have colored filters on them, and they’re combined after the fact and assigned colors during processing. So, even if your’re taking a picture of a green field, your camera is looking at the black and white tonal values from the “G” channel of an RGB image, or a mixture of brightness values from all three. [/item] [/accordion]

This means that if you take a picture of a black wall, with automatic exposure, it will come out looking grey. If you take a picture of a white wall, it will ALSO come out looking grey.

Before adjustments. Here we have a dark skinned model in dark clothes against a dark background. The camera tries to make it mid-tones instead, which makes the highlights in the image too bright and blown out.

Here, I set the exposure compensation to -1.33, darkening the darks and protecting the highlights.

So What if You Don’t Want Grey?

Often, we don’t. Maybe we’re taking a picture of a snowy scene. Maybe we’re taking a picture of someone with dark skin against a dark background. How do we get it right?

The answer is Exposure Compensation.

It sounds a little intimidating, but it’s simple: it means that you move a pointer to one side to make the picture brighter and to the other side to make it darker. The slider will look slightly different from camera to camera, but usually something like this when you look through your camera’s viewfinder:

[/media-credit] Most DSLRs and mirrorless cameras (and even many compact cameras) have an exposure compensation scale that looks something like this. When the pointer is in the center, you get the recommended automatic exposure. When the pointer is at -1 as it is above, you get an exposure that is one f-stop darker than auto-exposure would recommend.

When the pointer is in the middle, the camera will use the automatic recommended exposure. When you move the pointer to -1, the camera sets the exposure to 1 f-stop[4. Remember that 1 stop less exposure is equivalent to getting 1/2 the amount of light to the sensor.] darker than recommended exposure. Similarly, +1 or +2 will get you one or two stops more exposure than what is recommended by the camera’s automatic meter.

[accordion] [item title=”What Does Exposure Compensation Change?”]Exactly HOW the exposure compensation adjusts your exposure depends on what shooting mode you’re using. If you’re using aperture priority, where you set the aperture you want to use and the camera automatically chooses a shutter speed, the exposure compensation will adjust the shutter speed. If you’re shooting in shutter priority, exposure compensation will adjust the aperture. If you’re using auto ISO, then the camera may also change the ISO, regardless of what shooting mode you use, depending on your camera model. In any case, using exposure compensation allows you to retain control of whatever you want to control; it only changes the exposure recommendation.

[/item] [/accordion]

How do you set the exposure compensation?

Setting exposure compensation is different depending on your camera brand and model. Some cameras make it easier than others, but you should spend a moment with your camera’s manual and figure it out if you’re not sure. It’s worth it.

On Nikon cameras, you’ll see a +/- button, usually up near the shutter button. Once you press the button, you’ll be able to use the command-dial to move the pointer left or right on the exposure scale.

The exposure compensation button on a Nikon D7500, which is in the standard location for most Nikon cameras.

On all Canon cameras above the T7i, there’s a large thumb-dial on the back of the camera that gives you instant access to exposure compensation, and this has been true since the 1990s (and why I chose Canon when I began studying photojournalism in college). Turning it clockwise will make the picture brighter, counter-clockwise will make it darker.

  [/media-credit] The large dial on the back of the Canon 80D is similar to the one found on most Canon SLRs. On the Rebel models, though, there is a +/- button in the same general area instead.

Many Sony and Fuji cameras have a thumb dial on the top of the camera for the same purpose. Regardless of how you activate the feature, they all do the same thing: move the slider towards the “+” side and your image will get brighter, move it towards the “-” side and your image will get darker. In the custom settings of most DSLRs, you can choose whether the scale is in 1/2 or 1/3rd f-stop increments.

General Rules & Uses[separator type=”thin”]

First, A Few Quick Comments

Before I go any further, I’ll have to stop and discuss automatic light meters in a bit more depth.

Modern cameras have different light-metering modes that you can choose between. Center-weighted and spot metering do about the same thing: they look at the light in a small portion of the frame and set the exposure according to how bright that area is. Spot metering looks at a smaller area (make sure you know how to set yours; the meter icons don’t always make sense).

There’s also usually a mode that averages out the brightness from all across the frame, and sets the exposure according to that average. In modern digital cameras, there’s also frequently some sort of “intelligent” metering mode that compares the scene to a database of images, and sets the exposure according to those. When it works it’s handy, but when it doesn’t, it’s impossible to know how the camera is figuring out exposure.

Regardless of what metering mode you’re using, exposure compensation will help you fix the problem AFTER you take a test shot. With a little practice, you’ll be able to look at your first exposure and say “Ah ha! This is about a stop too dark” and make the adjustment and take the next shot.

But if you want to PREDICT the correct exposure and get it right the first time (to catch a moment at an event, or to capture a fleeting moment of light) then it helps to use center weighted or spot metering. That way, you’ll know what the camera is metering and what part of the scene it is trying to make grey (or mid-brightness).

A backlit photo using automatic exposure, no compensation.

The same shot, but with +1.7 stops of exposure compensation added. I gained detail in the subject at the expense of the mountains in the background.

General Rules

Rule One: If you’re shooting something that is mostly white, set your exposure compensation to +2

If you camera is setting the exposure off of something that is white, it will set the exposure too low, to make it grey. This means that anything in the scene that is supposed to be middle toned will be very dark, and you’ll lose a lot of shadow detail, too. Setting the camera to +2 will keep mid-tones where they should be.

Rule Two: If you’re shooting something that is mostly black (or very dark), set your exposure to -2

Do this if you’re shooting for JPG and want the exposure to be correct, or if there are also brighter areas in the image that would get too bright with automatic exposure[5. If you’re shooting RAW and the entire scene is dark, then there’s generally no harm (and some advantage) in over-exposing it, so you can skip this rule].

Common Situations

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If you’re shooting a portrait with back-lighting (or against the sky), then the light coming from behind the subject is going to be much brighter than the subject’s face, which is the same to the light meter as shooting against a bright white background, and the face will be lost in shadow.

What do you do? Set the exposure compensation to +1 or +2, depending on how bright the background is. This brightens up the face, but will often cause the bright background to be too bright.

In the photo to the right, I set the exposure compensation to +1.3 , though I could have gone even higher, since the background detail is not very important in this image.

Similarly, if you’re shooting a product or model against a white background, the camera may meter on the white and under-expose the image to make it grey. This is a huge problem with beginners who are shooting products for websites; instead of the product looking nice against a clean white background, the whole image looks muddy against a light grey background.

Again, +2 or so will fix it.

Most portraits with backlighting require +1 to +2 of exposure compensation.

Here I shot at +2 to keep the skater from going completely black against the bright sky. Shot with 5D Mark III.

This is a typical result for a product image against a white background with incorrect exposure.

Here, I added +1.6 to the exposure, but also turned on a flash behind the jars.

On the other hand, people often miss very dramatic, dark images because the subject gets blown out against a dark background.

[/media-credit] Here, a dancer stepped into the light in a gap between buildings as she took part in a protest march on a Seattle street. The background is in the shadow of the buildings, and most of her body is in shadow, which means that auto-exposure would blow out all of the highlight detail in an attempt to make the dark areas grey. I set the exposure compensation to -1.3, but it looks like -1.6 might have worked even better.

If you have a subject that is in the light and against a dark background, set the exposure compensation to -1 or -2. This will protect the brighter parts of the image from blowing out and losing all detail. This applies when your subject is in a spotlight on stage, in a sunbeam in a darker room, or simply if your overall scene is dark tones, but you want to keep the highlights in the parts that aren’t (eg, if you’re taking a detail shot of a black car).

With automatic exposure, no compensation, the image has blown-out highlights and lacks the dramatic, dark background.

Since most of the frame is dark, there was a risk here of the highlights getting blown out. -2 exposure compensation.

In an image like this where the center of the frame is dark, it’s common for highlights to get blown out and lose color. -2 exposure compensation.

In this generally dark image, I shot at -1 on the exposure compensation scale to keep the heron’s white face from becoming too bright and losing detail. Shot with 5D Mark III.

The old city walls of Dubrovnik from Pile Harbor. The shadowed centered of the screen required the exposure compensation to be set to -1 to keep the sunlit background from blowing out.

This is not the only way to make exposure adjustments, but it is the fastest and easiest for the way that most photographers shoot. Like anything in photography, getting good at it takes some time and practice, and the more that you practice, the easier it will be to read a scene that you’re photographing and expose it correctly.

Back in the days of film, it was critical to get exposure just right. With certain slide films, being off by a third-stop could ruin an image.

Digital is now more forgiving, and as long as you don’t over-expose too much, a lot of detail can be pulled out of the shadows of RAW files during post-processing. Still, if you’re required to shoot JPG, getting it right in camera is very important, and no matter what you shoot, if you over-expose the highlights past clipping, they’re gone forever.  Getting it right in camera, if nothing else, will save you time later when it comes to post-processing.

Questions? Comments?

As always, I’m interested to hear whether anyone found this helpful, confusing, or otherwise. If you have any questions that might help clear things up, please let me know in the comment section below!

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Photography Basics: Correcting Bad Exposure Modern cameras are pretty amazing, and most of the time, all you have to do is set the exposure to an automatic mode, point the camera, and click, and the exposure turns out pretty well.