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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 5 years

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If we were logical, the future would be bleak indeed. But we are more than logical. We are human beings, and we have faith and we have hope, and we can work.

Jacque Cousteau

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Berlin

For my last trip while in Rome, I opted for Berlin. I haven’t been to Germany at all – and while Berlin is not necessarily representative of the rest of Germany, I was keen to visit this city. It wasn’t nearly as crowded as the other more tourist-heavy cities I’ve been to, which was a thrill in itself!

Berlin, which means ‘swamp’, is symbolised by the somewhat cooler bear.

I made this trip with my friend Sarah, and she was a great travel buddy. Saturday consisted of an ‘off-the-beaten-path’ tour, which took us through the neighbourhoods of Mitte, Kreuzberg, and Friedrichshain. We got a taste of street art, including elaborate graffiti and posters. Posters are popular because the fine for putting them up is a fraction of that for graffiti! The tour was fun, and we stopped periodically for some of the crew to buy beer.

Street art is everywhere and often on a large scale.

This face above was a beloved piece – etched out of the wall. But then it was ‘desecrated’ buy Levis who added their logo to the man’s neck. A follow-up piece appeared just in front of it in protest – showing a horseman wielding a Molotov cocktail! Our tour ended in a spot along the river, started by and supporting African refugees. We left our tour-mates at the ‘beach bar’ and headed out. I became a little obsessed with the idea of piercing my upper ear, but despite Sarah being willing to find a suitable vendor for such things, I decided not to seek it out specifically. There was much to do and so little time!

The food in Berlin is amazing…every cuisine you can think of, authentic, cheap, and delicious! We had the best falafels for lunch (there’s a sizeable Turkish population) and Thai food for dinner. After the dearth of non-Italian options in Italy, this was a joy!

Sunday’s tour was of the more typical Berlin attractions. Below shows where the Berlin Wall used to run – signified by 2 lines of bricks and punctuated by these signs. If you can read the sign the right-side up, you’re in the former West Berlin.

Below you can see a portion of the actual wall. Seems pretty unprepossessing, but back in the day, hundreds lost their lives trying to make it across the ‘death wall’. Getting over the initial wall wasn’t the problem. It got tricky trying to get past the obstacles before the guards could catch you. Deterrents included everything from barbed wire, spikes on the ground, and Alsatians trained to kill. Apparently many guards suffered mental health problems and the suicide rate was high.

This dirty glass on the ground is of a monument to the famous book-burning incident immortalised in Indiana Jones! Below the glass is a room filled with bookshelves that could hold the 30 000 books burned – but the shelves lie empty. Such sacrilege…and across from a University…

Much of the content is grisly, but I appreciate that the Germans don’t hide from it. This plaque below quotes a poet from the 19th century who says (roughly) that when a society burns books, they will burn people.

We had some interesting chats during the tour about German patriotism being a tricky subject, since they still carry the burden of their past. Apparently the atmosphere of the Soccer World Cup held in Germany was muted in comparison to other countries. While this is a pity, there is apparently a growing alt-right movement in Germany, with thousands of neo-nazis gathering weekly in Dresden, making the illegal nazi salute. Our tour guide mentioned that they aren’t being busted yet because no one wants to draw attention to this group. If this is true, I find it unacceptable. This growing tide of intolerance is scary and sickening. At one point we found ourselves in a nondescript parking lot. Hitler’s bunker was below us. I asked if we could access it, since from a historical perspective, it would be fascinating. This is where Hitler saw out the rest of the war and committed suicide with Eva and his dog…Blondie. I can’t even.

But it turns out the bunker was filled with concrete and converted into a parking lot without so much as a sign marking its existence, to prevent Hitler fans from turning it into a shrine.

This is a pic of the Jewish memorial, signifying the 5 million Jews killed during the Holocaust. It comprises over 2000 stone blocks – each with different dimensions. The stones are treated with an anti-graffiti compound that allows any paint to be wiped clean. Because yes, there have been swastikas spray-painted on.

Then things got even more interesting. Apparently there was a huge outcry when it was discovered that the company that provided this anti-graffiti treatment, is the self-same company that provided the gas used in the extermination camps. The monument-keepers said that they knew this, and that it allowed them to come full-circle. Also, it would be difficult to find a German company that existed during that period that wasn’t involved with the Nazis in some way. Hugo Boss designed the SS uniform. Fanta was developed as an alternative because Coca-Cola was unavailable. Fanta is a nazi drink…think on that. Same goes for Puma and Adidas. The list is long. While I’m still not convinced, since then the company has returned the money initially paid and provide the anti-graffiti service for free. Truly the least they could do.

Okay, need to lighten the mood after all that. Behold the AMPELMANN! Berlin's iconic traffic-light man - the Eastern “Ampelmännchen”. Apparently part of a kid’s cartoon to encourage children to pay attention at the stops, the men were so popular in East Berlin that when there were plans to discontinue them, it sparked a huge protest. Now they are being introduced to traffic lights across the former West Berlin too.

Our tour ended at the Brandenburg gate, which has been the sight of many historical moments in Berlin’s fascinating history.

Despite its chequered past and the undeniably sombre moments of the weekend, I would gladly go back. Berlin, you were a somewhat unexpected delight.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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The Toilet Wars!

I feel compelled to post about this…not entirely sure what that says about me!

Our floor is serviced by 2 toilet stalls for women. Sadly, these are not always left in the best condition by patrons, which puzzles and disgusts me – and I’m not the only one. However I have not taken to leaving love notes for transgressors!

When I arrived, there were 2 of these makeshift signs up on the toilet doors. You’ll note the tone isn’t exactly unfriendly, and only a little passive-aggressive.

When conditions did not improve sufficiently though, this next one appeared. It’s not clear if the same person is composing all the notes, though you’ll see things are taking a turn for the full-on aggressive now.

I returned from a recent weekend away to find the latest instalment. What is particularly amusing about this one is that the sign-writer – presumably at her desk – took out a red pen and drew circles to highlight the offending pee. And then someone else, no doubt agreeing with the message, but unable to let the grammar go, made corrections! I can only imagine what this did to the delicate state of mind of the original sign-writer.

Who knows what the next sign will say? I am tempted to rip them up to make more room – these are all concurrently on display. It’s a dirty business.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Praha(ha!)

Easter fell over the end of March and beginning of May, and with a public holiday in sight, a trip was the obvious conclusion. I decided on Prague…having heard just how beautiful it was, and being drawn to the idea of Easter markets. I thought it would round up my Budapest Christmas market experience nicely. I was joined by my lovely colleague, Ecuadorian Cecilia.

We arrived on Saturday afternoon and had an evening tour – Prague’s tales of the mysterious! The concept sounded fun – a walking tour of some Prague sights, hearing folk tales ranging from grisly to grotesque. In reality, it was somewhat cheesy…but then, I like cheese. In fairness, it was difficult for our guide to maintain a dark and mysterious demeanour, when all around us drunken revellers in costumes were passing by. It seems that Prague is a premier bachelor party destination!

The next morning we went on a walking tour – starting in picturesque Old Town Square, moving to the Jewish Quarter, crossing the Charles Bridge, and ending at Prague Castle. Our guide, Katerina, was lovely - and so was the tour. Cecilia is an INXS fan and educated Katerina about one of their videos that was shot with the Charles Bridge as backdrop. The Australian family on tour with us appreciated this.

Old Town Square

Famous in Old Town Square is the Astronomical Clock. Sadly, it is currently undergoing renovations until September. There was a projection showing what it would look like though, and I took in the most magnificent Prague views from atop.

View of Old Town Square from above the Astronomical Clock tower:

Down below is this pretty buiudling. Apparently Walt Disney was inspired by the turrets when designing his famous Disneyland Castle.

I loved the festive Easter vibe. The markets were indeed lovely…lots of food and souvenirs and keepsakes unique from other cities I’d come across so far. Random purchases included little ceramic houses you can use as candle holders, to nut crushers in the shape of mushrooms. Don’t judge me.

Still in Old Town Square, this beautiful building deserved a pic. Apparently there’s a German town with many such buildings, painted with fairy-tale scenes.

Charles Bridge…lined with statues and touristy trinkets

Below, the John Lennon wall…it is constantly painted and repainted, and musicians can generally be found busking in front of it. Apparently when Lennon died, people started this wall to commemorate him, and it turned into a symbol of freedom for Prague’s youth.

Here be moody and magnificent Prague Castle!

After many kilometres, respite was found at a delightful little café. The coffee deserves a pic because it’s the first time I was ever served coffee with sugar syrup.

This hotel in New Town reminded me of a Wes Anderson movie…

We heard about the Golem while in the Jewish quarter, and I am closing with it since it struck my fancy. We even bought some biscuits – they were delicious.

Prague is beautiful and it was a lovely weekend…it was slightly marred by some unfriendly vendors though. Our tour guide mentioned that many older people are pretty racist and have trust issues, as a throwback from Stalin’s time. It’s often hard to tell whether people are racist or just miserable jerks though. This is a general observation. Overall, my experiences are still far more good than bad. They’d have to be.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

#aintnogolemlikeabiscuitgolem

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Aaah, Venice!

I once made the cheeky comment that Venice only looks good in pictures because you can’t smell the pictures. What made this particularly cheeky is that it was based on hearsay; I had never actually been. With clichés are so rampant, it wasn’t really on my list of must-see places. But then with the clock on my Italian time ticking, it seemed like I couldn’t leave without giving it a visit. So I booked a last minute weekend trip and went!

Since my expectations weren’t through the roof, I was ready to be delighted. Venice is arguably the most atmospheric and picturesque city in Italy. The charm of water taxis and countless little bridges linking streets is real.

The thing about decaying buildings in Italy is, it only makes them more charming.

Iconic St Mark’s Square…I did a tour of St Marks Church and the next-door Doge’s Palace. Lovely and ornate both - you know the type.

Doge’s Palace on the left (below). Sadly there were no Indiana Jones tours on offer...a missed opportunity if ever there was one.

The Rialto bridge…

Gondolas…but of course. On average a gondola ride will cost about €80. I didn’t feel the need to go on one…they’re not used for transport any more, just tourism.

Venice is famous for annual Carnivale. Though it had already passed, you can still buy masks from many street vendors and shops. I can only imagine how busy it must be at this time...it was off-season when I visited and still so busy. Getting lost in the little side streets is to be expected. Many of the alleys and paths look like dead-ends, with inter-leading paths visible only once you’re upon them.

The Bridge of Sighs…named for the hapless prisoners being taken to the inter-leading dungeons.

For a change of pace I overnighted in ‘Casa Caburlotto’ – a converted convent! It was very clean and very Spartan – no TV in room and a bathroom across the passage. It’s the first place I’ve ever stayed in that enforced a curfew. If I had chosen to stay out after midnight, I would have been locked out.

On Sunday I took a boat out to the neighbouring islands of Burano and Murano. Burano is famous for its colourful houses and ancient lace craft.

Murano is famous for its hand-blown glass. All glass-works were moved from Venice to this island hundreds of years ago, to protect Venice from fires (since the glass-making products are so flammable). I visited a workshop and saw a glassmaker at work.

This pic is from a Venice store though…

Overall, I am glad I made this trip. That being said, I have never been more aware of the negative effects of over-tourism. An Italian colleague referred to Venice as a kind of ‘Disneyland’; it’s not real. And it’s true…it’s almost like an extremely pretty shopfront – populated with stores just to serve tourists. For the first time, I felt like I wasn’t visiting a place populated with locals and immersing myself in their world. Rather, it has become a creation merely to service tourists. Apparently most of the famous Venetian glass is actually now made in China and shipped in by the cargo ship-full. It is also a startlingly expensive city. I was warned to only order off menus with prices printed on, lest I be scammed…apparently a common ruse employed against Japanese tourists in particular. It’s also the most I’ve ever paid to use a restroom – €1.50 (about R22). In the other European cities I’ve travelled to, the average cost of a single public transport ticket ranges from €1 – 2. Here, a single ticket on the water taxis (there are no buses or trains) runs at €7.50.

I am fully aware that I am part of the problem...but I commend countries that are proactively limiting tourism and maintaining their individualism as far as they can. Let Venice be a cautionary tourist tale.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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When the slopes hit back...

I’m out of sequence again…I wanted to capture this trip but had things to say I wasn’t sure how to express. As with all these blog posts though, I decided to just write them completely unedited, so at least there’s a record. Plus I have another upcoming trip this weekend and am 2 posts behind already – so, best do it now. What a compelling start!

In Feb, I went away for the weekend to a ski town called Ovindoli. It’s about an hour and a half outside Rome, in Abruzzo. I went with 3 lovely girls from work, invited by one I knew pretty well (Sarah), while the other I knew a little (Stephanie), and the last not at all (Inkeri).

We stayed overnight at a beautiful medieval town called Fontecchio, an hour or so away from Ovindoli. Our digs looked like they were once part of a castle, and our host was so gracious and kind. We met him at the Square’s parking and he walked us over to our rooms – which we wouldn’t have found on our own.

This is where the women used to gather for water until as late as the 1960s.

Here be a medieval-times store-front. “Just like in Beauty and the Beast!” (Steph).

The town’s cultural group was having a celebration and aperitivo that night and we were invited.

We ended up passing the chief performer anyway as we went by the clock tower – the starting point. He was animatedly playing the accordion as we went by in preparation for the evening. He and his friend – a sweet girl who spoke English, told us they were starting at 19:30, so we walked around a bit and headed back closer to the time. It was very informal and apparently he and another friend’s first performance! They played accordion and tambourine, singing local songs in dialect with great enthusiasm!

They even dressed in matching plaid shirts – their way of looking like ‘mountain’ people, we were told. I sent a clip to the gang and Aatish mentioned they gave off chutney jol vibes – which is pretty apt!

Everyone there was so friendly and welcoming to us – we were treated like VIPs. Steph pointed out that we made quite the exotic and international group, with her being Chinese-American, Inkeri being Finnish, and Sarah (also American), being red-haired – particularly uncommon in these parts.

Alessio, our host, gave us a tour of the clock tower. It’s housed at the top of what is now a gallery. This was part of a permanent exhibit showing images from the earthquake of a few years ago that caused damage and deaths.

However all this came after day 1 at the ski resort. I managed to book a private hour lesson around 3PM, and had all but managed to psych myself out before it. Sarah and Steph can ski, and Inkeri was set to ski-board. I, on the other hand, had never so much as ridden a ski lift. I got fitted out for my skis and boots with the others anyway, and wore the boots for the day until time for my lesson. This was a big part of why I almost cancelled! It’s hard to explain just how awful these boots are. They’re extremely heavy and cumbersome. I felt like they were moon boots built to withstand anti-gravity environments, except I was wearing them on earth. Each step felt like a fall waiting to happen. And they hurt my shins. Carrying the skis around was also uncomfortable. I was also convinced (helped in part by anecdotes from colleagues) that I would fall and injure myself in the attempt of learning. I mean, I could barely walk with these boots – and I’d had a lot of practice walking! Please note that the idea of falling is not new to me. I have fallen many times on incredibly varied forms of transport. I’ve been jet-skiing (great fun, though I did end up overturning it and landing in the water). I have even face-planted in snow from steering a husky sled in Norway – at night, while it was snowing on my eye-balls. If you know me, you’ll know that looking cool is not my primary concern in this life. However I was worried about how I would get around and manage by myself in Rome, should I end up with injuries. Being alone and reliant on public transport, has its drawbacks.

My travel buddies were so sweet though, they even offered to give me a trial lesson pre-official lesson, so I could be more comfortable. This didn’t go well. This was not because they weren’t good instructors. I fell, and couldn’t get up. They had to help me un-click my skis before I could rise. This made the idea of practicing on my own nerve-wracking. I pictured myself in some undignified pose, unable to help myself back up. In retrospect, I could have probably managed to un-click my skis and get up, but I was pretty nervous at this juncture and not thinking very positively. I also didn’t want to get in anyone else’s way and unwittingly hurt someone.

I realised I was also feeling particularly sensitive. I suddenly felt a little overwhelmed by not knowing how to do yet another thing. And being torn between warring feelings of privilege that I could even be in a position to learn, and frustration that I had to suffer through the process of learning so late in life, when it’s just so much harder (for various reasons). At this juncture I want to quote Mindy Kaling (Why not me?):

Yes, I had the extreme privilege of starting to learn to ski. And I was miserable. I hated the feeling of ineptitude. I was suddenly tired of all the hassles whenever I wanted to try something new, logistical and otherwise. I remembered learning to scuba dive, and being beset with the worst sea-sickness from the choppy water. And feeling conspicuous from being the only people of colour then (along with my brother. I’ve always been a proponent of doing the thing; trying new experiences. I’ve abseiled and been on zip-line slides. I have had a few horse-riding lessons. I’ve had one archery lesson. I tried to ice-skate once, when I lived in London over a decade ago. Kew gardens in winter is pretty magical, but I can still remember the unwieldy awfulness of being in those skates, as I clutched the rail for as long as I could stand before getting off the ice. I was tired of all these wonderful, awful experiences. I was resentful that so many of them were so hard, or had scary elements. I know…I was feeling sorry for myself. Poor Sena, who has trouble with her elitist adventures. All I can tell you, is that the struggle felt real. I realised that so many of these involved me venturing out alone, and receiving strange looks for being there in the first place. I am not over-sensitive, but I am perceptive. I wished it could just be easier. I felt resolve that my nephews and nieces wouldn’t ever feel this way. That they would have options early, and would be helped along as far as I could.

I did manage to pull myself together in time for my lesson. I lucked out with a wonderful instructor. She was patient and kind, and I ended up having a great lesson. That doesn’t mean I turned out to be a skiing savant…not at all. I still fell, but I learned too - and after my 2 lessons, I could feel an improvement.

Post weekend, I gave my mixed feelings some consideration, and happened to come across a timely article by one Maria Popova:

“De Botton distills Nietzsche’s convictions and their enduring legacy: The most fulfilling human projects appeared inseparable from a degree of torment, the sources of our greatest joys lying awkwardly close to those of our greatest pains…

Why? Because no one is able to produce a great work of art without experience, nor achieve a worldly position immediately, nor be a great lover at the first attempt; and in the interval between initial failure and subsequent success, in the gap between who we wish one day to be and who we are at present, must come pain, anxiety, envy and humiliation. We suffer because we cannot spontaneously master the ingredients of fulfilment. Nietzsche was striving to correct the belief that fulfillment must come easily or not at all, a belief ruinous in its effects, for it leads us to withdraw prematurely from challenges that might have been overcome if only we had been prepared for the savagery legitimately demanded by almost everything valuable. (Or, as F. Scott Fitzgerald put it in his atrociously, delightfully ungrammatical proclamation, “Nothing any good isn’t hard.”)

I’ve been nursing the assumption that I am uncoordinated and un-athletic, but actually, I was an active kid. I ran and jumped long and high, and there was always swimming. Stopping to think about it, maybe it’s more that I’m just bad until I get good. I still have a list of other activities to try out. I will try to remember this lesson.

After all that, let us end with a pic of the best hot chocolate I have ever had. It was in a cozy restaurant on the mountain, while surrounded by snow. Also, ski-lifts are fun.

#keepontrucking

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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I have resting walking-dead face.

Me

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Vienna

Vienna, is a genteel old lady of a European city. It’s easy to imagine its illustrious past as a cultural centre. It was fun remembering bits from Good Wives and Star of Kazan that referenced it in its prime.

I had a quick Saturday-Sunday visit, but felt like I needed to see Vienna before I leave Rome. In general I found the people friendly and warm, and could imagine living here. I think I was unduly influenced by its breakfast culture! (so different from Rome, and the meal I miss the most from SA!)

This is Belvedere Palace – now a gallery. That odd little structure instead that looks like a house made of expanding marshmallow was a little stand-alone spot that was playing a video of the house itself talking. I didn’t really wait to see what it said.

I did however enjoy seeing the Klimt works. ‘The most famous kiss in the world’…

St Stephen’s Cathedral…

I loved the coffee-house culture in Vienna. This was from my breakfast:

This lovely old coffeehouse / restaurant / tea shop was a delight. They sold all manner of tea and chocolates. I bought chocolate-covered coffee beans.

The Vienna Opera house – rebuilt after being damaged.

Schonnbronn Palace…painted in Schonnbronn yellow:

I didn’t plan anything for Saturday evening and ended up watching ‘The Greatest Showman’ in one of several English movie theatres. Maybe an odd way to spend the evening, but I was happy with my choice.

Not the most compelling post, but a quick snapshot of a lovely little stay.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Buda and Pest

Visited over the 10 – 12 November 2017.

Previously part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Budapest has an interesting and troubled history. They’re very proud of their opera house, which turned out to be more ornate than the Viennese one, which apparently angered Franz Josef.

Budapest has the oldest underground rail system in continental Europe (this is how I got to the Opera house…fitting!)

Heroes Square…commemorating all the fallen from various wars and skirmishes. My tour guide joked that if Budapest is ever in a fight, bet on the other side! Incidentally, the country and people are known locally as Magyars…Hungary is a somewhat unflattering reference to Huns!

The problem of posting well after the trip…I can’t remember the name of this beautiful place, fronted by a castle.

Inside are buildings in a variety of styles, but somehow they all work together beautifully.

St Stephens Church – the highest building in Budapest – together with Parliament! Church AND State…

Famous for its strudels…I saw them being made and then sampled some. They were very good, but somehow I can’t bear the thought of more of them!

While on the subject of food…though I didn’t have any. Budapest is famous for its paprika. And there are lots of embroidery work on clothes and fabric. This appealed greatly to my hippie aesthetic!

One of the deciding factors of going to Budapest at this time was so I could experience a European Christmas market - theirs opened first. I found a cute little one with lovely handmade items. I bought some lavender, soaps, and bird-song whistles!

Wreaths...

Gingerbread...

Different wreaths...

Finally, here be Buda Castle…

And here I am from atop Buda Castle, with the Danube and Parliament building behind me.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

#youcanttakeafricaoutofthegirl

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 6 years

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Florence

The first time I tried to look up train tickets for Florence (soon after my arrival in Rome), I had no luck. Florence is an Anglicism…in Italian, we are dealing with Firenze. The train ride from Rome is a mere hour and a half, and I arrived November 4th for the weekend.

I booked a walking tour on Saturday that took me along the major sites of this pretty city. I was once again reminded of Mr. Ramjathan, my high-school art teacher, who himself was a travel maverick and actually travelled through Europe at a time when very few people in my experience had. I remember our art lessons on the statue of David so clearly. We were in Standard 6 or 7, so around 13 / 14 years old. Seeing it live was special, and it is even more impressive now, to realise how such detail was accomplished where other artists had failed – even with the same block of marble. Seeing the sights I’ve learned of in my childhood never gets old. When I was a kid, I never really imagined I would get to travel as much as I do. Don’t get me wrong, the world still strikes me as so full of places to visit I often feel I haven’t made much of a dent! But as the years pass, progress is definitely being made. But overseas travel was so far off a prospect to little Sena, like many things, it didn’t even occur to me to dream of it.

The Duomo is quite different from any of the others I’ve seen. It is beautiful and ornate, and it’s dome a feat of engineering.

Here’s the Dome from the inside…very Dante-esque. The many levels of hell is a recurring theme in Florence!

We walked along the river and saw what was the historic part of Florence. This is where fishmongers of old would dump fish guts into the water! It was a stinky, no-go area (by elites), until it was reformed into more genteel shops as still exist today.

This somewhat voluptuous boar (cinghiale) marks the beginning of a famous market. It’s tradition to rub his snout for good luck – you’ll note how shiny it is.

At one point of wandering, I found it…led there by my good but empty intentions.

Pisa is a little over an hour away by train, so I decided to visit on a whim after I saw the queues to the Uffizi gallery!

It really leans! Depending on where you’re looking at it from, the lean is more or less pronounced. It was raining buckets and a kindly stranger who was already wet and didn’t care, took this pic.

It was a good weekend…

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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Seeena in Rome!

So far, 3 of my dearest friends have come to visit me in Rome. Each of them have come laden with good things for me – including treats, books, and pharmacy favourites I can’t get here. My latest visitor, Seena, went straight to the apartment from the airport. This is what I found in the kitchen when I arrived! Those bottles contain home-made (by her mum!) fig and lemon pickle. The real deal people…

This was a whistle-stop visit, with Seena arriving on Friday and leaving on Monday – but we made the most of it! On Friday evening – dinner and a show! Dinner was that wonderful La Bocaccia pizza, followed by the Augustus AV show at the Forum. Lovely both! On the way home I had to take Seena to my local favourite gelato stop…and it did not disappoint.

On Saturday we had quite the itinerary…starting with a musical tour of Palazzo Doria Pamphili. An art historian explained the significance of the building, its history, and of course, the art (including Caravaggios). In between we were serenaded with baroque music and old-school instruments. This particular combination of tour was new for me and I like it! Here’s a gratuitous pic of ornate ceiling!

Attempting a mirror selfie!

Once we finished the musical part of the day we headed to Campe de Fiori for a food tour! Our guide Oscar was fun, combining food stops with local history. Here we are at good old Piazza Navona.

Each stop was delicious and combined important elements of Italian living! They ranged from pestos and other spreads at the market, to coffee, cheeses, gelato, suppli – there’s more but I can’t quite remember them all!

Among the last stops of the day we wandered around the Jewish ghetto area, and where Julius Caesar was actually murdered (Largo Argentina).

The rest of the weekend passed in more wonderful wandering, shopping, eating – La Montecarlo you lovely thing! – and enjoying serendipitous findings round every corner. Thank you for the visit Seen! xox

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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Amalfi coasting

This is a quick post to note my fun times in Italian waters! The first, and quite probably the last while I remain in Italy.

2 weekends ago I went off to the Amalfi Coast. It was, in a word, wonderful! I stayed in Salerno (a hop from Naples), and took the ferry to Positano on Saturday morning. This is where my day tour on the water started. For someone who gets very seasick, this was a fairly risky move. I would have been sick as a dog and the other people on the boat would have had a damper put on their day for sure! I took heart from the fact that I didn’t get sick earlier in the year when on boats in Norway. I was pretty distracted at the time (whales!!), but still, distractions have helped little previously. I’ve tried sea-sick pills, ginger tablets, acupuncture point bracelets, drops, you name it, I’ve probably tried it. At any rate, everything conspired to make it a wonderful day. The weather was glorious – still hot even though we were in October. Right off the bat I met a wonderful American couple (Danielle and Bryan) I connected with, and we were tour buddies.

This first pic is actually at the end of the tour as we returned to Positano. The houses and hotels are all reachable via winding, pretty walks.

We cruised along to The Blue Grotto (pic below) – naturally lit and very pretty…definitely talked up for tourists though.

The accounts I read painted such a must-see picture that the reality was slightly anticlimactic. Especially since it was so small a cave you could easily have seen what you needed to from a viewing platform, but you can only enter via a boat – and of course a fee. The whole tour took maybe 5 minutes! It was an optional extra and only my tour buddies and I chose to go.

I hadn’t swam since I got to Rome and water had been calling me for a while. It was nothing short of a delight! I swam in caves with water dripping off stalactites, and jumped off these steps into clear, green water.

Pictured here is the ever-so-elegant Michelle. She and her husband (who are also great-grandparents) were vacationing from France, having road-tripped to Amalfi themselves. They were interesting and engaging, and when I grow up, that’s how I want to be! Adventuring and enjoying with no end in sight.

At the end of the day I made my way back to Salerno, tired and happy.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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Visitations!

It is October in Rome…and a lovely month it is. Technically Autumn, it’s only now getting slightly chilly in the mornings. It also marks almost 3 months since I arrived, and what a 3 months it’s been. I’ve settled into a groove, and am enjoying my work. A few trips are on the horizon and a few have just been, which helps stave off the persistent homesickness. Also helping greatly in this regard are visits from my people!

Faeeza and Pria came to Rome! They arrived on Saturday 30th September, bringing their lovely selves, along with home treats, much chat, and the priceless comfort of dear friends. The first thing I did after their somewhat gruelling journey was make them climb to the top of Gianicolo! It did provide beautiful views though – my justification.

The first of several selfies, taken with enthusiasm if not skill!

In the afternoon we traipsed through Rome a bit, visiting Fontana di Trevi (of course), the Spanish Steps, and the Keats and Byron museum.

Sunday took us to Naples! A lovely train ride of a little more than an hour and the friendliest tourist office staff led us to our first destination…Basilica Santa Maria della Sanità in Piazza Sanità. We came for the catacombs! Our first…and probably not the last. Was a really interesting insight into savvy priests and gullible (but rich!) nobles of the time, that saw them pay vast sums to be ‘purified’ and entombed after they died. The price they paid for this saw the church built in just 10 years – unheard of in the 17th century! This is a fresco of a couple that reputedly died on their wedding day. The women is depicted in what we were told is typical, no-nonsense Neapolitan stance – hand on hips! Even then...

After all this excitement we needed sustenance. Perhaps you’ve heard that the best pizza in Italy can be found in Naples…we did! And to be frank, this was the aspect that pretty much decided Naples as our day-trip destination of choice. It turned out to be the perfect choice. We all 3 loved it! There’s a mad energy there, a realness, and so much to see at every corner that is either beautiful, stimulating, or both. Graffiti is wall art. Crazy locals stare from their windows. Seafood is sold on every street corner, and the traffic follows its own, decidedly Neapolitan rhythm. No one wears helmets on the many scooters. We passed scooters with kids standing on the seat as an adult rode, and pizza delivery guys holding the pizzas in one hand and steering with the other. Speaking of pizza…

I really love this pic of the 3 of us, eating our pizza on the pavement and watching the world go by!

The texture of the dough is different in Naples, being more pliable and thicker than in Rome. And while our pies were tasty, I have to say, I will take Roman pizza any day. The below sample is from La Bocaccia in Rome, a spot Pri and Faeez found for me, a dangerous 10 minute walk from my apartment. I would highly recommend it…so good!

After some pastries (for which Naples is also famous), we ventured forth to see the status of the Veiled Christ. It is hauntingly beautiful. We weren’t allowed to take pics of our own, but Wikipedia obliges us. The artist ‘was charged with producing "a marble statue sculpted with the greatest realism, representing Our Lord Jesus Christ in death, covered by a transparent shroud carved from the same block of stone as the statue.":

We headed back to Rome, with Naples leaving its mark. It was a somewhat busy work period for me so I was back to work next day, which left Faeez and Pri to their own sweet wills. Here you see them posing romantically in what is, I believe, the English graveyard Keats is buried in.

On Monday evening we reconvened, and went to the Forum for a night-time audio-visual tour focusing on Caesar. The play of light and sound was incredible – it recreated the Forum and let us see what it would have been like when built. Completely (and expensively) funded by Caesar, he saw it as a way to show-case his glory. As such he refused to have any artists sign their work, lest it detract from him. Kind of a dirt-bag move Caesar…but then again, he did get quite the comeuppance. (This is the first time I’ve used ‘comeuppance’…it won’t be the last).

Too soon, Pri left us lamenting. This gave Faeez a couple days to explore Rome on her own, and on Friday we met again at the airport for the final leg of our adventure…Milan!

Faeez’s fashion credentials necessitated the trip, and almost immediately, the change in dress was visible. The Milanese are a funky bunch. Saturday morning started with coffee and cornettoes in Caffe Armani…

We spent the morning on a fashion tour, with our guide giving us a fashion history lesson and taking us through some of the designer stores, conveniently located around 4 core, inter-leading streets. This part of Milan is really quite small and contained, and the chaos during Fashion week – with celebs in tinted luxury cars on the little, gridlocked streets – can only be imagined. The tour was fascinating…who knew Armani started out his empire by providing clothing for the first wave of professional, working women at the time! The window displays are curated with much care, and are frequently spectacular. We learnt that Valentino has a trademark colour – Valentino Red!

We also realised just how big the fur trade still is…with fur trimming in high demand on everything from accessories to floor-length coats. Interestingly, I just read that Gucci is committing to going fur-free in 2018. This is extremely promising, since it seems Gucci is at the top of its game right now, and was by far the busiest of the designer shops we visited.

Our tour came to an end and Faeez and I went in search of sustenance. We had tea at a venerable old lady of a tea room – 200 years old! Pasticceria Cova…you were a lovely glimpse into what 1800s café society was all about.

The last and most magnificent stop of the day was the Milan Cathedral. Faeez spotted it first as we exited the underground (who knew it would be right there?!) – and it pretty much took our breath away. We lit candles inside and spent a few moments enjoying the loveliness.

Sunday was also a tour day, the primary reason behind it being to secure a viewing of The Last Supper. If you’re going to Milan and want to see it, make sure you book your tickets early. Once they sell out, as they did, you can only hope to access it via a tour. In an attempt to maintain the humidity levels of the room in which it is painted (an old priestly cafeteria!), we passed through 2 sets of doors that seal behind us, and have 15 minute slots for viewings. Pictures are allowed, flash is not. When I was a kid in high school art class, I never imagined that one day I would actually get to see the things I was learning about. It was just so beyond my frame of reference. Each time I do, I am quite overcome. The Last Supper was no exception.

Overall, Milan was lovely. The people were gracious and friendly, and everything seemed to work smoothly. Giulia reckons it’s because the Milanese aren’t frustrated like Romans!

If I had to place Italian cities along a scale of ordered to crazy, I’d place Naples on one end and Milan at the other – with Rome somewhere in the middle. What really made these trips special though, was getting to enjoy it with F & P

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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Rome chronicles continued...

This post combines last weekend and this one…because I was delayed posting. I have a feeling it won’t be the last time this happens. Onwards!

I have made some friends at work and we have started meeting outside of work too. Giulia and I met on Friday afternoon at the Borghese gardens. After 5 weeks I finally took the Metro for the first time (the train I take to work is an overland train). Luckily they’re easy to navigate, although I was again warned by a good Samaritan to beware of my bag because of those gypsy pickpockets!

The view from atop the Borghese Gardens is spectacular, and seems to take in all of Rome.

This image doesn’t do it justice. You would have realised by now that I don’t take the best pics in the world. But in relation to my awful videos, these are gold!

After a short walk through part of the gardens (it’s huge and would have taken much longer to see all of it), we moved on to Piazza di Spagna. Below, the popular Spanish Steps area, complete with boat fountain.

On the right (background) is a museum of a building that used to be frequented by Byron, Keats and that lot who made it a trendy, artsy area. I didn’t take this pic, it’s just much prettier than the one I managed.

Herewith the famous Fontana de Trevi. 11 years ago I tossed a coin in while facing backwards, and it must have worked, because I am indeed back. This pic is deceiving – it was swarming with tourists!

Guards are on duty to ensure no one takes a dip or brings food or drink close to it. You may remember it from that Perron ad a while back.

After all that, we had granitas. A refreshing fruit-flavoured slushie, granitas are the way to go (Limone is my favourite). This one is a variant – more snow-cone – and got a bit fancy on me…they’re usually just served with a straw and spoon.

On Sunday last I went to Irena the Croatian’s home for aperitivo. I took along some little cakies. See how prettily they wrap them? This is the way regardless of whether it’s a corner bakery or a fancy shoppe.

I met a colleague who works at WFP as a Conflict Analyst! She has a region she helps monitor for potential war / uprisings / upsets that WFP may need to assist in. She says it helps her work that she has Cairo roots, since she has contacts there and speaks Arabic.

Granitas are all well and good, but ah! coffee!

Coffee really is part of the local fabric here. This article I came across explains how it works in detail if you want to know how to go about ordering and consuming like a local. There isn’t a Starbucks in sight and you won’t miss it. The coffee really is delicious! Though much smaller, you easily get your caffeine hit. If you’re wondering, I’ve taken to the honourable café macchiato.

http://romevacationtips.com/how-do-i-order-a-coffee-in-rome/

This brings me to what I realised about paying a meal bill. Tipping in Rome is actually not customary, as you tend to get charged for your spot at the table anyway. However if you were happy you can leave 1 or 2 Euros over the total. That being said, while the bill may be brought to your table, you generally need to go to the counter to pay (unless you have cash and don’t need change).

Greeting

Ciao is hello and goodbye, just like Aloha. In Europe, women greet other women and men they know well not with hugs or handshakes, but with cheek kisses. One on the left, one on the right. I find this excessive, but alas, when in Rome*…

Nonetheless I never know which way to go first, left or right. My Croatian friend tells me it’s 3 kisses in Eastern Europe. Give me a fist bump any day. (Dudes seem to stick with handshakes).

*It’s a minor miracle I’ve resisted this pun for so long!

Summertime

The worst of the heatwave seems to be behind us now. It is still hot, but not as painfully so. The breeze doesn’t blow hot any more. I still keep my food waste in the fridge until it’s the assigned day to throw it out though. Yes, the glamour of expat life. Don’t let anyone tell you different.

It also means I have started to (sometimes) walk home from the train station instead of taking the tram. Took this pretty pic on the way.

Painted stairs en route home from train station

This weekend…

On Saturday I attended an expat meet-up, which was in a lovely location. Over the summer there’s a flea-market / festival vibe set along the banks of the Tiber – pic below.

Yesterday I went to the movies for the first time since arriving! I found a cinema not too far away that regularly screens movies in their original English (Versione Originale).

Snack-wise that’s different from SA, sweet popcorn and nachos are on offer. Tickets cost 8.50, and snacks almost as much – just like everywhere! I watched Atomic Blonde, which was very well-made, and Charlize was suitably kickass! It left me a little cold otherwise, but just being at the movies again was great.

Outside the cinema was this guy…goes by Triton(e).

Roots…

I have the elevator speech of my Indian heritage but South African nationality down pat. I have had to repeat it a lot in the last several weeks! Was chatting with some colleagues about how at WFP, you really can’t make any assumptions about a person’s background. Appearances and even accents are misleading.

It’s a generalisation but it seems to me that South Africans, while adventurous, tend to put down roots. So even if we relocate, it tends to be for a longer time frame. Like, until retirement. I’ve been hearing so many stories though of people who uproot constantly, whose kids are born in one place, go to school in multiple places, university yet elsewhere, and end up working in entirely new surrounds. There’s a class of UN employee (this is another topic altogether) that has to move office location every 4 years. It’s mandatory.

I’ve been thinking about the experience of uprooting, and why – beyond the obvious – it can feel like so much. Back home, I am who I am in relation to others. I’m a daughter, poowa, friend, sister, etc. And that grounding permeates my day-to-day. Having come here by myself, all that falls away. While it can present an opportunity for reinvention, despite my flaws, I rather like who I am. I like the connections that inform where I come from and how I frame myself. I don’t feel the desire for reinvention, and I am comforted to know it.

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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The WFP

For those of who have wondered about the work I’m doing here at the World Food Programme at HQ in Rome, I’m a consultant in the IRM-O (Integrated Roadmap Operations) team.

In a nutshell:

Extracted from the Integrated Roadmap Narrative (December 2016)

While I am very much still finding my feet, being here – even if for a few months – is a dream come true. Trite I know, but cut me some slack :) What I’m doing is by no means life-saving, but I am reminded of that story from the ‘60s space race when JFK was visiting NASA, and asked a janitor what he did. And this delightsome individual answered, ‘I’m helping put a man on the moon!’

The below account is from the WFP website, as Saturday past was World Humanitarian Day.

Honouring colleagues on frontlines of hunger

Saturday 19 August was World Humanitarian Day, and an opportunity to pay tribute to WFP colleagues and humanitarian workers everywhere who are striving to improve the lives of others.

Indonesia Country Director Anthea Webb, asked to speak at the Australian Parliament on behalf of WFP, recalled how World Humanitarian Day was born out of the bombing of the UN compound in Baghdad on 19 August 2003, which killed 22 people and injured more than 100.

Executive Director David Beasley said it was a time to remember the “determination and dedication [of staff] to alleviate suffering and meet the needs of the most vulnerable”.

On World Humanitarian Day, WFP Executive Director honours colleagues on the frontlines of hunger

Executive Director lays a wreath at WFP’s memorial for its fallen colleagues. Photo: WFP/Rein Skellerud

Around the globe, we come together on Saturday, 19 August for World Humanitarian Day to support the millions of people across the globe trapped in conflicts and to pay tribute to the aid workers who care for them.

In all corners of the world, World Food Programme colleagues are working tirelessly to make sure that children and their families, suffering and broken apart by violence and fighting, have enough to eat. Today we remember their determination and dedication to alleviate suffering and meet the needs of the most vulnerable. We celebrate their courage and commitment to work on the frontlines of hunger, often at great risk to their own personal safety. Some have lost their lives while trying to save others.

This year, we especially mourn the tragic loss of three people working under contract for WFP — Daniel James, Ecsa Tearp and Ali Elario, who were shot dead in April while reporting for duty in Wau, South Sudan. Our thoughts and prayers are with their families.

Humanitarian workers go where the need is, and far too often that is where conflict is as well. Fighting and violence drive 80 percent of all humanitarian needs, and 10 of WFP’s 13 largest food assistance operations are driven primarily by conflict. In Nigeria, Somalia, South Sudan and Yemen, more than 20 million people, including 1.4 million children, are on the brink of famine. Increasingly, those involved in the conflicts in these areas are targeting aid workers. On World Humanitarian Day, we come together to reaffirm that civilians caught in conflict and those who care for them are #NotATarget. We appeal to world leaders to take action to protect them and to deliver on the promise of our mutual, shared humanity.

WFP is the world’s largest humanitarian agency fighting hunger worldwide, delivering food assistance in emergencies and working with communities to improve nutrition and build resilience. Each year, WFP assists some 80 million people in around 80 countries.

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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Barcelona!

Excursions

I interrupt my thrilling tales of Roman admin to tell you about my weekend in Barcelona! What a cool city…very glad I went but of course, the memory is now intertwined with the sad incident that took place 2 days after I left.

Since I was arriving at midnight on Friday I booked a shared shuttle to my hotel Lleo. Despite the many warnings of pickpockets (online, from colleagues, and even from locals when I arrived!), it was great to feel excited about a mini holiday. Rome is my work base destination, and while there’s much to see and enjoy, it’s different to be going away. This is especially since between getting settled and the heat in Rome, I haven’t done much sightseeing here. I found Barcelona to be warm and welcoming, and very tourist-friendly. Using the local metro was easy and you acclimatise quickly.

Tours

Tripadvisor, Booking.com, Viator etc. are all handy for getting a sense of popular tours with ratings and reviews. I’ve run across a problem with many tours though – particularly day trips and excursions – that only allow for a minimum 2 person booking. So as a solo traveller, I’m out of luck. I’ve found some good alternatives using Air B&B – the providers tend to be smaller, independent operators, and hence less likely to turn away a paying guest, even if she’s on her own. Thanks for the tip Faeez!

I used the following providers in Barcelona:

· Food Lover Tour (Picoteo tapas tour)

· Sagrada Familia tour (Julia Travel Office - booked via Tripadvisor)

· Gothic Quarter Tour (Runner Bean Tours)

Food

The tapas tour was delicious and informative…covered the history of tapas and all the places we ate at. The group was very cool, although I was the only non-American. Unexpected favourite anecdote of the evening: At our last stop our table was a refurbished foosball table, and the conversation moved to playing pool. A pretty straight-laced guy – living in Tucson, Arizona – mentioned that his favourite thing about pool was the control of the jukebox. He likes going to this hillbilly bar (his words) and choosing Destiny’s Child’s ‘Bootylicious’, because he doesn’t think they’re ready for his jelly…

Not really tomatoes...delicious tomato-disguise dessert!

Apart from the tour, I sampled some killer empanadas and desserts.

Gaudi

Gaudi totally needs his own heading…he dominates Barcelona! His work tends to be inspired by organic forms in nature. Think curved versus straight, best exemplified by Casa Battlo – a house he designed that almost entirely has softly undulating ‘edges’ inside and out.

Casa Battlo (pronounced B-ayoh [like SA Indians say it])

This is part of Casa Battlo’s roof. Note the whacky chimneys and ‘dragon’s spine’ outline.

Sagrada Familia is predictably incredible. Designed by Gaudi and being built for decades, current estimates are that it will be complete in 2026 (I have my doubts). A big part of the delay is that the particular classification of this church means it is a public entity and can’t be funded by huge, private donations – and it takes a lot of small donations to fund this behemoth! Because the building has been going on for so long, it does have a somewhat schizo quality.

This is the part Gaudi actually oversaw

This Disney-esque front façade was built based on Gaudi’s blueprints, but post his death (which is a tragic tale. Gaudi was run over by a tram at the age of 72 – but the kicker is no one bothered to take him to the hospital, thinking he was a beggar [he was dressed in shabby work clothes]).

The inner pillars are meant to mimic tree trunks…

The stained glass windows that stretch the length display colours reminiscent of the sunrise, and sunset over the ocean.

The one Gaudi spot I didn’t check out and would have liked to see was Park Guell – but tickets were sold out until after I left. But silver lining…apparently there’s a big mosaic gecko there, and versions recur in all the tourist spots. You can imagine how much I enjoyed this (I have a reptile-aversion).

Gothic Quarter

Free tours are a thing now. You decide at the end what to tip your guide. The tour I did of the Gothic Quarter was really good and I learnt loads. There are some really gruesome tales from this part of town…they even have an evening tour that details these more and aren’t suitable for children!

Gothic Church

I came to Barcelona…gawked, ate, shopped…and it was good :)

Disclaimer:

“The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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some-thoughts-and-crosses · 7 years

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And so it continues...

Random things I have discovered

Italian bedding comes in 2 sizes…single, and not single. Conveniently, Italian beds also come in these 2 sizes.

At Trastevere train station, there are always 2 military types dressed in camo and carrying assault rifles. You don’t want to have an invalid ticket…

Somewhat sadly for me, breakfast / brunch is not really an Italian thing. Breakfast tends to be no more elaborate than a pastry and coffee, to make room for more substantial lunches. I was looking for breakfast spots and came across this descriptor: Italians may not be big breakfast eaters, but that doesn't mean they don't take breakfast seriously. Having a cappuccino or a caffè is essential for Italians in the morning. Without it, they just don't function. To get their caffeine fix in the morning and throughout the day for that matter, many Italians go to a neighborhood bar or a café. Along with their coffee, they'll order a delicious pastry called a cornetto (similar to a croissant - but don't ever call it one!) that typically vary from semplice (plain), integrale (whole wheat with honey inside), cioccolato (chocolate or nutella), crema (cream) and marmellata (jelly). Italians might also order a ciambella (doughnut), ciambellone (a slice of poundcake) or even a macedonia* (fruit cup).

*fruit = frutta in Italian, so I’m not sure what Macedonians have to do with fruit salad…

Random shoes on a tram

Out and about

This is “The Typewriter” or “Wedding Cake”, and not meant as a compliment. Apparently it was built over some historical site, and so attitudes are mixed.

On Saturday I went to a Meetup Walking Tour, which was postponed because there were only 2 of us. It was free so I couldn’t really complain, and I didn’t mind because the guide was an ass. So I went to the nearby Caracalla ruins – ancient Roman baths. The venue is also used to stage operas and concerts, but I just checked out the ruins. They were the primary means for ancient romans to bathe and socialise at the same time, and was interestingly not limited to particular classes. The scale of this place was impressive! I think the Romans peaked early.

On Sunday I visited the countryside village of Sabina (Sabrina’s home town), an hour’s train ride away and out of Rome’s city. Sabina is famous for its olive oil, and looking out at the hilly vista I was reminded of the quiet village Al Pacino’s Godfather character went to die (spoiler!). Anyway, we went to friends of friends for Sunday lunch, which stretched over several courses (antipasti, pasta, dolce, coffee) and several hours, winding down around 17:30. With that kind of session, you can understand why breakfast, and even supper, are afterthoughts. In general though and with the sun setting so late, I have to remind myself to eat at a reasonable hour, or end up having supper way too late for my digestion’s liking.

Our standard of living in SA is very high. In SA we pay more for cars, electronics, toys and many other items. And we are willing to pay them. We are a consumer nation, and are susceptible to having the newest and best. Here, though the newest is cheaper, people tend not to bother (both at WFP and Rome in general). As an example, the cell shops are still selling iPhone 5s as standard. No one would queue for the latest edition of gadget. People drive serviceable hatchbacks that you can tell have seen a lot of miles. Seeing a fancy car is noteworthy. Whenever I’ve noticed women’s wedding rings, they look more like costume jewellery, often without a diamond in sight. I don’t see anything wrong with buying stuff that gives you pleasure, and I do it often enough myself. But I do like that success doesn’t need to look a particular way.

Restaurants

I’ve been quite enjoying the canteen’s offerings, apart from the odd miss. Man they love their brinjal (melanzane) here. In the outside world I have had some really good pasta and some mediocre. I asked after some of our local favourites and discovered:

· Gemelli means twins (Gemini)

· Casalinga means housewife

· Spiga d’oro is golden wheat germ…

· Col Cacchio is literally with cheese (but this refers to pecorino which isn’t used on pizza), so more likely is closer to “Yeah right”, or as a bit of an expletive!

Speaking of Italian…

As with French (and Spanish, I’m guessing), stuff has genders too – not just people. And the words you use differ depending on the gender of the person you’re addressing / speaking of. So it’s bravo for a male and brava for a female. Who is the person that one day decided the gender of inanimate objects?!

The letter ‘c’ presents further difficulties. When paired with an ‘h’, it takes on a hard, more ‘k’ sound – like with macchiato. Otherwise it has a more ‘ch’ tone – like cello. It always makes me smile when an Italian colleague says “etchetera”. Until I remember how I am saying all my C’s wrong! Circo Massimo = “chirco” Massimo. But Colloseum, somehow isn’t “Cholloseum”. And cappuccino has both hard and soft c’s, even though the hard c isn’t paired with and h! Finally, “sc” gives a softer “sh” sound. Sometimes.

I feel like a real language underachiever…it’s not unusual for my colleagues to speak multiple languages, and here I am proud I can now count to ten in Italian.

Summertime

Friends, it is hot. I thought being South African and brown offered me special dispensation from the overwhelming heat, but how wrong I was! Not much of a sweater, I’m sweating. It’s a proper heatwave - temps of 40° today. The breeze blows hot air!

Everyone pretty much goes on summer holidays by August. It is already significantly quieter, and I can expect local shops to also close doors soon. The 15th is a public holiday and I have opted to take the 14th (Monday) off and go to Barcelona. My first Spanish experience!

In conclusion

I continue to miss everyone, sometimes to the point I have to quickly distract myself or fall into a malaise! Monday the 7th is Raksha Bhandan, one of my favourites, and had I been in Jhb it would have been a festive day. No matter where I am, my family and friends go with me. I mean, seriously…even the toothpaste conspires to remind me!

Disclaimer: “The information posted on this blog reflects my personal views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of my employer.”

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