slowroadtosantiago
Two Old Biddies On The Camino
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The end
So, our fantastic adventure has come to an end. And our feet, backs, resolve and friendship all held out (just…)!
We were up early and had one of our best breakfasts in a local cafe - the orange juice was perfect, the coffee strong and the toast crispy. Our taxi picked us up bang on time and we were so early we had a wait before check in opened. The bags went through OK. I was stopped at security but it turned out to be my hair clip! The flight left on time and landed on time. The bags were ready when we got through security. We’ve just got a bit of a wait at Stansted for the bus home now.
It would appear that the nun’s blessing we received at the little church at the start of the meseta has stayed with us.
It’s probably going to take some time to digest the last 6 and a half weeks. We’ll have memories of the landscape, the villages, the wildlife and the flowers, the albergues good and bad, the great food, and most importantly the people, laughter, camaraderie and kindness we’ve come across. The feelings will stay long after we’ve forgotten the details of what we did and when.
Hasta luego!
Tracy and Jane x
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Finisterre
It was an odd trip to Finisterre today, or Fisterra as it is in Spanish.
It all started with breakfast, or lack of it. We walked to the bus station with plenty of time to spare with the idea of having breakfast in the station cafe. It was heaving with pilgrims, all with their large backpacks on being swung around in not much space. We managed to get a table once we worked out it was table service then sat and waited, and waited. Eventually our order was taken, two Americanos one of which is decaf, two croissants. The coffees came but it took more chasing to find out which was the decaf, then only one croissant came. There was no option but to share it, neither of us had brought snacks and it was a long journey ahead, just over 2 hours.
We then went to the bus stand to find lots and lots of pilgrims queuing and milling about. Laura was just in front of us as she was going for a night in a nice airbnb. The bus pulled up and the driver looked worried at the number of people. Someone went down the line counting then they let on those with tickets. There was a bit of ‘oi, there’s a queue here’, but we got on OK. After counting the number of spare seats and letting a few more on we eventually got away 15 minutes late.
The journey was pleasant through the countryside, and when we got our first glimpse of the sea the German lady in the seat opposite clapped with excitement!
We got to Fisterra about half 11, and wandered down towards the harbour. There was a lot of work going on so it was a bit noisy. We were starving by then and only wanted a bar that served tortilla but all we could find were seafood restaurants.
We stopped at one for the smallest coffee ever then wandered on around to a small beach.
Just above the beach was a supermarket so we got bits to make a picnic and sat on the beach eating it, initially in the sun until it got too hot then huddled against a cliff wall in a bit of shade.
We weren’t terribly impressed by Fisterra at that point.
The lighthouse at the end of the peninsular is a traditional ending to the Camino, you can’t go any further as you are at ‘the end of the earth’. It’s a few miles from the village so after lunch we walked up through the village passing some very chilled out cats and took the track which runs alongside the road. The road was quite busy with coaches and cars, and there were quite a few people walking the path too. At the top is the lighthouse and a small complex with loos and a bar.
Over the edge just past the lighthouse was a cross and an altar where people had left behind things from their Camino.
It was a hot day so we stopped at the bar for a drink and an ice cream before walking back down to the beach passing the pilgrim statue on the way.
We had also come to swim, so that’s what we did. My pants and sports bra were all black to I could just about get away with swimming in my undies, and Jane went in in a t shirt and short leggings. Boy was it cold! But very fresh and a great experience.
We chilled on the beach for an hour waiting for everything to dry out and I went looking for sea glass as the beach had plenty.
It was time to pack up and we wandered back a different way through the village. It’s an odd combination of modern buildings mixed with old streets. We stopped for a drink but couldn’t get any food so found out where the bus would be stopping then wandered on again to find a cafe where we wolfed down a couple of pastries. As we were finishing the bus arrived and we got on with the same bus driver as this morning. About an hour into the journey the driver put the aircon on full so we started to get cold. About half hour from the end, in a busy town, he announced a 5 minute stop. We’re sure he was tired and needed a coffee stop.
We got back safe, walked back to the flat stopping for some bits in the supermarket, and are now all packed and ready to go in the morning.
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Santiago de Compostella
I have decided to carry on with the blog for a few more days until we get home, I suppose we’re still having our adventure and it will help us remember what we did in years to come. But the stories are likely to be a bit more mundane now so can be skipped if you are bored. However, we’ve just had a cracking evening with our Camino family and that needs telling.
So, starting at this morning, we had a good night’s sleep and didn’t wake until nearly 8! However, we’re not sure if Jane has a few bed bug marks or it’s just heat rash. We’re a bit paranoid now. Check out was at 11, a real luxury when most albergues chuck you out at 8 if you’re not already gone by then.
There was a cafe just up the road so we went for breakfast then stopped at a pharmacy on the way back to get some stronger bite cream as I was discovering new bites (just mossies probably).
Our next stop was the airbnb so we asked the man on the reception desk of last night’s hostal if he could call us a taxi. It was a bit lazy as it was only just over 1 km away but it would mean we’d get very sweaty carrying the rucksacks! I’m glad we did as we’ve booked our ride to the airport on Friday with the same driver.
We dropped our bags but it was too early to check in so went back into town for a wander. The first place we found was the market housed in a lovely old complex. We found a nice souvenir shop where we bought a few bits. We then meandered for a while stopping for coffee in a small square where a man was busking. The streets of the old town are narrow with some very interesting shops.
Some of the streets near the cathedral are renown for their silversmith shops and we found one selling some really nice pieces which took my eye.
I had messaged Alex, to find out when she and the gang might be arriving so after the shopping we went back to the main square to wait for them all and spent a very happy time people watching. It was interesting seeing the mix of emotions as people entered the square, some crying and some obviously thinking ‘is that it?’
Laura also turned up to wait and eventually we saw them all, congratulated them, gave them big hugs, took their photos then left them to it to adjust and get their Compostellas with the promise of meeting later for food.
Jane and I were starving by then so went back to an Italian we had seen on the way in for their menu meal. I’m not sure how we’re going to adjust to 20 minute lunches when we spent the best part of 2 hours sat on a table outside people watching, eating and enjoying a couple of glasses of wine (it was just the two).
The cathedral didn’t have any services on so we got a proper look at what was inside. There were some interesting chapels and the altar piece is quite something. But the tranquility was spoilt by the noise of drilling coming from one of the side chapels.
It was time to get to the airbnb. It’s a very nice clean and airy two bed flat about 8 minutes from the cathedral. Jane’s got the double bedroom and I’m in bunks again, for the last time in a while I hope!
Alex messaged about meeting up so we all met in the main cathedral square along with some new friends they had met on the way.
There were going to be 11 for food so we went back to the same tapas bar as yesterday on the off chance they could fit us in, and as we were early we were lucky and they did after a short wait.
I thought it was a bit fishy when Ernest took charge of the ordering with so many of us there. We had some beautiful dishes, and lots of them, before he and Tim let on that they would be covering the bill. It was a really lovely evening, full of chatter and story telling, a wonderful way to finish the journey with our Camino family.
We finished the evening buying ice creams for everyone from a shop up the street. I have a new favourite of ‘cheesecake’.
After some big hugs we said goodbye and are now settling down quite late for us. Tomorrow is our day trip to Finisterre.
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Day 43 - O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostella
(Posted the day after as too tired to finish it last night!)
We made it! We’re more than a little proud of what we have done, and I am a bit emotional too!
But back to earlier today. After a much better night’s sleep Jane woke me at quarter to 6. We had decided to get going much earlier to get ahead of the crowds and left the hostel shortly after 6 in the dark.
We managed to find our way back to the Camino but were then rescued by one of the American girls who gave up a top bunk a few days ago as we were starting down the wrong way. Going through the forest we had to use our phone torches for a while until it got light enough to see.
We passed through fields and forests, it was all quite rural for some time.
After about 4 miles we stopped for breakfast at a lovely place. The lady who owns the cafe complemented me on my Spanish, probably a bit of an exaggeration though I have got ordering breakfast down to pat now! She had spent quite a few years working in the UK in the VIP lounge at Heathrow and it was interesting hearing her story.
We carried on and eventually got to a hilltop just outside Santiago that gave us a wonderful view down into the city and the cathedral.
Carrying on downhill we passed and were passed by many pilgrims on their way in. Jane needed the loo which gave us a great opportunity to stop at a cafe for chocolate and churros which Jane had not experienced yet. The churros were great but we couldn’t finish the chocolate as it was so rich!
Another very busy mile or so got us to the city centre. I was quite emotional thinking about the adventure being almost over. It has been something that we had talked about and planned for so long, then we were on it, then it was going to be over.
We followed the signs, then lost them as we got closer to the end, but again got directed by pilgrims who had finished. It was impossible just to follow people wearing backpacks as everyone was!
Going through an archway with a piper playing we finally entered the Plaza do Obradoiro and caught sight of the famous cathedral. Pilgrims, tourist groups, and schoolchildren filled the square and it was noisy and busy.
We found Laura and Rian who had finished a short while ago and who were sitting people watching. Rian took some great photos for us then she found a friend to take some photos of the four of us.
Having had enough of the square we went with the girls to find the Pilgrims’ office to get our Compostela, our certificate. They had a QR code which led to a form to fill in. Jane was struggling to get it to work so someone inside took pity on us and told us to go on through, down some stairs then into a reception area with PCs where a nice man helped us fill in what we needed to. So we’ve all got our certificates, as well as a certificate of distance.
To celebrate we found a great tapas bar for food and a few wines. We were joined by two of Rian’s Dutch friends, one of whom had walked all the way from the Netherlands!
Replete and relaxed we popped into the Tourist Office for a map, then went back down to near the Pilgrim’s office to buy our bus tickets to get to Finisterre on Thursday. The town is incredibly busy but we’ll take more time to explore tomorrow.
As we have come in a day earlier we found a hostal with a twin room for the night. It’s very close to the town centre and seems fine. Jane went to investigate the bathroom and who should pop out of the room next door but Kate (living in Canada who we met with her brother earlier in the journey). It was great to see her and to meet her daughter who had joined her to walk from Sarria.
As we were chilling we had a message from Rian to say the Cathedral was already filling up (at 6 for a 7:30 Mass), so we hot footed it up there to find standing room only! We managed to squeeze ourselves onto some steps at the back with Laura and then had a long wait.
The service started at 7:30 and even though we couldn’t understand anything we stood and sat when needed. The priest seemed very kind welcoming pilgrims from all over the world. After an hour, and right at the very end, they swung the botafumeiro, the huge incense burner. It went the whole length of the cathedral and seemed like it almost touched the roof!
Once the service had ended we went with the girls to try to find food. The streets were heaving but we eventually found an organic restaurant and I had a mini pizza and Jane a salad and sausage. We were all hanging by then so decided to call it a day.
Tomorrow we find our Airbnb and have a day being a tourist.
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Day 42 - Ribadiso to O Pedrouso
Well that makes 6 whole weeks that we have been on the Camino and tomorrow we walk the 12 or so miles into Santiago! It’s going to be weird to not be in the Camino routine anymore.
Today’s 14.7 mile walk, whilst pleasant, was also quite hard for both of us coming on the back of two long days, and we both felt it in our feet.
We left just after 7 after an awful night’s sleep. I was awake with itchy bites on my arms and paranoia about possible bed bugs in my sleeping bag, and Jane had a heavy blocked nose from the pollen in the air.
We tried to get a coffee in the local bar with the grumpy waiter but it wasn’t open so cracked on.
We stopped about 3 miles up the road in a place called Arzua. We’d been in the countryside with small villages and it was strange to walk into a modern town.
We found a bakery with cafe open so had breakfast - pain au chocolat and coffee - before heading back into the countryside and forests.
We met Rick of Rick and Richard fame from a few days ago (the wine people). He was struggling with blisters so nurse Jane came to the rescue!
The countryside alternated between forests and open ploughed fields. There were plenty of people on the path and the ‘Cymru am Byth’ vandal was still about though there are fewer scrawls.
Just coming up a hill we heard music and came across a guy playing a keyboard.
Then after a quick coffee stop at 5 miles came across a wall of Pilgrim wisdom - lots of wise sayings.
Further on as we turned one corner we came across one house which had put plants in lots of shoes!
My favourite bit was when we went through a wooded area and there was a bloke playing meditation style music and several people were taking a sit down break with their eyes closed.
Lunch was at the 10+ mile mark where Rian caught up with us. It was a bit of a funky cafe and buzzing with all the people passing through.
We were still passing lots of old and new houses with hórreos (the outdoor buildings at height) so I amused myself today by taking pictures of them.
After lunch it was only an hour or so to O Pedrouzo and the Albergue. We checked in and as we walked into the dorm Laura was there too! It’s a nice enough place, not full, quite modern and we’re both on the bottom again. We did a batch of washing as everything was getting a bit smelly, then went for a wander meeting up with the two girls and finding a nice place to eat at.
I think the plan is to be up even earlier than normal to beat the crowds and get to Santiago early. I just hope we get a better night’s sleep.
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Day 41 - Palas de Rei to Ribadiso de Baixo
Our phones are showing 16.6 miles today, but we took it steadily with a few long stops, and our bodies and feet have become adjusted now, so it didn’t seem bad at all. It was a quiet day in terms of stories to tell.
We set off early as usual just as the sun was coming up.
We did the usual and got three miles down the road before stopping for breakfast at a shack with garden.
The toast was delicious, the orange juice whilst not copious was fresh, but the coffee, oh dear…It was brown in colour, warm and wet but not up to the usual standard.
So we got back on the road. We were now walking through forests which appear to be a mix of deciduous trees and eucalyptus. There are still more people on the road but not the hoards that we were expecting.
The path passed through small villages with the ocasional cafe and crossed a lovely old bridge into a quaint village just before a town called Melide.
Here we stopped in the first place we came to for a proper coffee. It was also a restaurant and the speciality that everyone appeared to be going for was octopus, at 11 in the morning? We weren’t quite ready for that so stuck to the coffee then carried on. It was a busy market town but didn’t take too long to pass through to get back into the lovely countryside.
The next stop was another 3 miles down the road where we stopped for lunch. We sat with Laura and Rian enjoying lovely sandwiches washed down with a beer. It was nice to get a proper rest before setting off for the last 3 miles or so.
To say that today’s walk has been undulating would be an understatement. The ups and downs haven’t been terribly hard or long, but there have been lots of them with the path going up and down many valleys.
We eventually got to our final stop, it’s only a very small village just set up for pilgrims, with no shop and only one place to eat. We’re in an Albergue that seems nice enough and we’ve both got bottom bunks, but there are 15 bunks in it so not sure what the snoring will be like tonight.
After showers and only a short chill as we arrived later, we joined Rian and Laura for a pilgrim’s menu. The two girls, along with Alex the Texan, are like our Camino daughters. The meal was fine but we were served by the surliest waiter ever who plonked our dishes down each time and was very brusque.
On coming into the village you cross a river bridge. By the side there are steps you can dip your feet in from as well as a slipway, so after dinner we got our feet wet. Oh boy was it icy cold, you could only stay in a short while.
So even though it’s still early, we’re going to retire to our beds for a chill. Tomorrow is 14.7 miles in the book to O Pedrouzo, we’ve just got two walking days left!
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Day 40 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei
Today we walked a suggested standard stage as classified by John Brierly’s book, which means that others will be following the same stages, and it was very noticeable how much busier it was.
We’re quite proud of ourselves as it was 16 miles and we weren’t collapsing at the end. We were meant to be doing a shorter stage tomorrow, but buoyed on by today we have changed our itinerary so we’ll do three longer days and will get to Santiago on Tuesday instead of Wednesday. That day the cathedral will be using the Botafumeiro, the very large swinging incense burner, at the mass at 7:30 and we hope to see it.
So, back to today….We set off just before 7:10 as there was a breakfast stop about 5 miles up the road. We met Laura on the way out and walked with her a little way until she left us for dead on the hill out of town (she is in her early 20’s after all).
There were a steady stream of people with us but they looked like seasoned Pilgrims. We had some lovely views looking back once we had ascended the hill.
It’s still very green and Welsh-like and very undulating!
After a couple of hours we stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast. We were impressed with the place as it was very busy yet the staff were incredibly organised and got people served very quickly. It was interesting trying to distinguish the walkers between those who just joined at Sarria and those who had been going much longer!
The path wandered through avenues of trees and next to fields. We paused at a small church where a blind man was giving out sellos (stamps) so we queued for one.
Our next major stop, some 5 miles further on, was at an Albergue called Fuente del Peregrino where tea, coffee and cold drinks were by donation. The place was full of volunteer young Americans from a university in Pennsylvania on a mission doing a week helping out, then tomorrow they would be walking the Camino themselves from Sarria. We sat on benches outside sharing all our snacks with Rian while the hens clucked about underneath our feet.
There are local elections going on so the peace was broken by loudspeakers on top of cars driving down the narrow country lanes imploring people to vote for one candidate or another. All the while a steady stream of people walked by where we were sat. We have also not seen quite so many taxis going backwards and forwards before.
After one last push we got to Palas de Rei about 2. Our Albergue is very clean and new and we’re again in bunks, no imploring would get us two bottom ones today. Jane has elected to go on top this time.
Once unpacked we went out to find something to eat. We found one restaurant and as I really fancied pasta today, had their lasagne which went down very well. Afterwards we found an ice cream parlour just next door, it was fate!
Back at the Albergue we had showers and the usual washing.
We’ve just been out to find a supermarket to stock up on snacks and drinks for tomorrow and are now back too pooped to stop out for a wine. It’ll be an early night tonight.
Tomorrow’s walk is going to be a mile or so longer than today, but we’ve paid ahead for our bunks so there will be no rush.
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Day 39 - Barbadelo to Portomarin
It was another 12 miler today.
After a very restless night (the bites on my arms are very extensive and pretty horrific) we were up at 6:30 as usual and on the road about 20 past 7. It is noticeable that the path has become more busy and there was a steady stream of people coming up from Sarria.
The sun was only just up and everything looked very pretty looking backwards.
We did our usual trick of walking for a few miles before stopping for breakfast. When we did stop Rian had just arrived ahead of us so we had breakfast together. I stuck to a croissant but Jane decided to go off piste and have a pasty, which wasn’t the best of moves. She described it as baby food wrapped in pastry, delightful!
From Sarria onwards you are supposed to get two stamps per day on your Camino passport to prove you walked the path. The cafe had a stamp at its entrance so we got ours when we went in. We then proceeded to watch two older women draw up in a taxi, get a stamp without stopping for a coffee, get back in the taxi and disappear. I’m not sure that’s really the spirit of the Camino. We did see them a bit later posing by a kilometre sign without the taxi so assume they walked some of it.
Just as we were leaving the cafe Laura (from Germany) popped up and it was lovely to see her again. Her and Rian got on very well. The path carried on mainly on quiet roads and footpaths at an elevated level with enclosed fields and woodland around us.
Almost every house we passed had an elevated oblong building in the garden, that was perched at a height with a skirt protecting the upper ventilated part. We had quite a debate as to what they could be used for. I thought grain (and I was right in the end) but they didn’t look big enough, and ideas ranged from honey stores to somewhere you kept your family ashes as the roofs often had crosses on.
After a while we got to the 100kms marker! We’re nearly there (well only a few more days walking).
In the next cafe afterwards, a mile or so down the road, we celebrated with the most amazing cheesecake.
We then pottered downhill towards Portomarin in the distance. In the 1950’s the town had been relocated to allow the river to be dammed and flooded. The church was taken apart piece by piece and you can still see the numbers on the blocks used to help put it back together again.
We found the Albergue run by a very nice old couple and some young American girls took pity on us and allowed us to both have bottom bunks.
After settling in we went into the town to get some lunch (menu del dia again), before coming back and chilling, napping and showering.
About half 5 we wandered down to the supermarket to get snacks for tomorrow before sitting in the sunshine on the church steps eating an ice cream. Here Rian found us, and Fraser also turned up.
We found a local bar in the sunshine (it was nippy with a cold wind), and had a sangria together. Just before 8 we left, Fraser going to the supermarket, Jane and I back to the Albergue, and Rian went off with Laura who had turned up last minute.
Teeth are cleaned and we’re sorting out our bags for our long walk tomorrow, about 16 miles.
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Day 38 - Samos to Barbadelo
It was about a 12 mile day and mainly very pleasant walking.
We both had a good night’s sleep though are now debating whether the bites on my arms are from the midges when sitting by the river or from bedbugs as the Albergue had a duvet/quilt on the bed. I haven’t been bitten anywhere else but slept in my sleeping bag liner with my arms out.
Anyway, we had breakfast at the cafe next door before setting off about 7:40. The path followed the road for a mile or so alongside a very pretty river until we came across a bridge under some trees where the ground was covered in white fluff from the trees.
We crossed the main road and started on a 5 mile green byway which was incredibly pretty and again reminded us of home. Along one fence people had created crosses made from sticks.
A mile or so down the path someone had left out coffee, hot drinks and fruit for a donation, so we stopped for a drink along with some German youngsters.
The path continued through lush greenery, passing small hamlets on the way.
The path we had taken to and from Samos was a diversion from the main route and we joined back up in a village called Aguiada. On the map it indicated that there was a cafe there and we were gutted to find that it wasn’t open. No worries, there should be one in 700m we thought. Nope, that was closed too. Jane was somewhat miffed. In silence we trudged on towards Sarria. Eventually we came to a campsite and even though the cafe area wasn’t open we sat on their chairs for a rest and a snack from our backpacks.
In a bit we carried on towards Sarria, getting a glimpse of it through the trees. Sarria is the closest city to the 100km mark which is the minimum distance you need to get your Compostela, your certificate to say you have walked the Camino. As a consequence it is renown for being very busy and crowded with people just doing the shorter distance. It holds the record for the most albergues in one town!
As we arrived at the Sarria sign Rian popped up to walk in with us. We followed the Camino signs, crossing a river where the flowerbed on the banking read ‘Sarria 114km’.
We also passed a massive painting on the side of a building of Elias Valina. He was a priest who died in 1989 who was instrumental in reviving the Camino in the 20th century and designing and painting all the yellow arrows on the path.
The path took us up into the old town. We were quite disappointed with the place. I think that we were expecting it to be much more vibrant but perhaps it was the wrong time of day. We were all getting a bit peckish so stopped at a cafe for a drink and a sandwich.
We left Rian phoning a few albergues to see where there were beds available, and carried on out of town.
After initially climbing up, we then went down a steep road and across an ancient bridge, and then across a wooden bridge.
We started a climb up a very steep hill being very quickly overtaken by two youngsters blasting out music striding away into the distance. On the way we passed an interesting looking gnarled tree before coming out into open land where after a short while we found our Albergue.
I had a shower then gathered all my clothes together and the Albergue washed and dried them for 7 euros. Apart from my undies that’ll do me until I get home - merino wool t shirts just don’t smell!
We went for a drink then eventually a meal in the main building. Rian had found a bed here so she joined us too. Another chap whose name we have forgotten, but just call Essex man, is also staying here. We met him first in Molinaseca and our paths have crossed a few times.
After dinner we sat on some comfy chairs and had a simple conversation with a lady from Switzerland who had just started from Sarria. She only spoke a little English and my German was almost non existent but we got by with the help of Google translate.
So now we’re chilling in bed (my turn for a top bunk), with another shortish day tomorrow to Portomarin.
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Day 37 - Fronfria to Samos
It was about a 12 mile day in the end, but carrying our backpacks to see how Jane would get on.
We set off at 7:20 saying cheerio to Dieter who was having breakfast, and to Fraser, an Australian we had met at Casa Susi and have been leapfrogging with. It’s still cold in the mornings so had coats on.
The path went gradually downhill with stunning views of the hills and mist in the valleys.
There was a cafe open in the second village down so we stopped for breakfast. We’re going to miss the toast, freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee. The cafe had some great wood carvings outside, though the Neanderthal man was a bit scary.
We came across a very cute herd of cows and calves and also discovered the Cymru Am Byth vandals have now switched to black spray paint.
At the bottom of the mountain we landed in Triacastela where we took a diversionary path to the left that would take us to Samos.
The path followed the edge of the quiet main road for a while with a large drop at the side down to a river. At one point we came across a memorial stopping point and there was yet another letter to Pilgrims.
We left the road and the path wound its way through some incredibly lush green countryside and through an old village full of locals pottering about. Everything looked a bit well worn and reminded us of some if the little off the beaten track villages in West Wales.
After quite a lot more ups and downs than we expected we eventually arrived in Samos about 1:30. It’s famous for its monastery which looks stunning. You can do guided tours which we thought we’d do at 5:30.
After checking into our hostel (bottom bunks again, yippee!) we set out to find some food. The cafe next door was only doing sandwiches but we managed to find a local restaurant where we got a burger.
Back at the hostel it was time for a shower and a chill. Jane popped out to sit in the sun. I joined her in a while at the local bar talking to Rian from last night and Dieter who had not long arrived.
Rian told us about an old cypress tree we had to visit and hug and you could also paddle in the river there.
We went off to the monastery for 5:30, got our tickets, then just as we were waiting a huge coach load of Spanish tourists turned up! There was another tour at 6:30 so we gave up and went to hug the tree first, then sat in the sunshine eating an ice cream.
The tour at 6:30 was interesting, even if it was in Spanish. The monastery had a fire in 1951 so quite a lot of it had to be rebuilt and there were some interesting modern religious paintings on the walls.
There was to be a mass at 7:30 so when the tour ended in the church we nipped out and had a glass of wine with Rian and Fraser who was also on the tour with us, before booking our flights home. We’ll be back on Friday 26th.
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Day 36 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria
Today was the last of our big hill days. Over the course of the day our ascent has been 1039m, with the first 678m climbed in the first few hours. My phone is showing over 14 miles. Nonetheless, we’re not feeling too bad at the moment!
We set off about 20 past 7 and we could see low cloud ahead. We were hoping that we would climb above it rather than it hanging around throughout the whole climb. Leaving the village in the early morning light we initially walked uphill on the road up through some lovely green countryside before the path started to climb on a dirt path. It reminded me very much of walking our local tracks in Wales.
Up and up we went to the first village. It was still early so we pushed on to the next village for breakfast. The path left the woodlands and came out into an open area where we were indeed rewarded with amazing views with the cloud below us.
A final push to the next village and we found a cafe open for breakfast. The last part of the climb was relatively mild in comparison to the first two sections, we even had a mountain biker pass us huffing and puffing away.
We finally emerged at the top and O Cebreiro. The views back down were tremendous. O Cebreiro is also a very quirky place, there are quite a few thatched houses which we hadn’t seen before. According to the book it’s also where more people start the Camino from, but we didn’t find it too busy.
The countryside on the other side of the hill looked so Welsh! Even the hedgerow flowers reminded us of home - dandelions, buttercups, forgetmenots, daisies and the odd bluebell. The fields were full of wild flowers and the paths undulated by the side of a very quiet main road.
We stopped for coffee at a place that was also the village shop. Shortly afterwards, at the top of a rise, we came across a statue of a pilgrim heading west. Someone had left an envelope for pilgrims to open, so we did and there was a sweet note inside.
A few more kilometres later at the end of a nasty climb and with our stomachs starting to rumble we came across a cafe where we ate a huge slab of tortilla each. As we were sitting outside a group of horse riders arrived, de mounted and had a beer which the resident dog objected noisily to.
Also pecking about under the tables were some hens and a cockerel!
According to the map, it would all downhill from there, and it was more or less. A couple of miles later we arrived at our Albergue.
It’s a fab place. There is a great hangout area with comfy sofas, we both have bottom bunks in a large well spaced out bunk room complete with real sheets (not the usual paper ones), and duvets. We’ve got little bedside lights and cupboards with electric points in. When we arrived the lady on reception saw our stamp for Casa Susi where we were a few days ago and said that they were all friends. I could see why as even though this place is very much bigger, it has a similar vibe.
After showers and washing through my smalls I sat and worked out how many miles my phone has walked. It’s showing 424 miles at the moment (it’ll also include post walk wanders).
Jane went off to have a drink with Deiter, one of the Germans we met a while back, while I did some admin. I joined Jane a bit later and she was sat talking to two Americans, Rick and Richard, who work in the wine industry.
At 7 we went for the communal meal. It was held in a separate traditional round building like the ones in O Cebreiro. The food was fabulous and very much traditional to the area, starting with a vegetable broth, then a really tender beef stew with rice, followed by a local cake that tasted like it had ground almonds in.
As we left the dining hall the neighbouring farm was bringing the cows in for the night.
We’re now back chilling in our bunks. Tomorrow will be shorter at 11.5 miles. It will still be a bit undulating but nothing compared to today!
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Day 35 - Trabadelo to Las Herrerías
It’s now the end of our 5th week and we’ve just got 9 days walking left! 376 miles covered and just over 100 miles to go!
Despite our best intentions to sleep on late as we only had a short day today, we were still on the road by 10 to 8.
We both had a good night’s sleep, which is why we naturally woke about 6:45. The rest of the dorm were up and some already out the door. We had breakfast at the Albergue and it was nice to have yoghurt and cereal for a change.
We only had 10k to walk today so stopped at several cafes on the way, firstly for coffee, then for orange juice, then at a chemist and a supermarket, wasting time as we couldn’t check in until 1.
The path followed a side road along a valley floor all the way, seemingly in between a main road and the motorway which was perched high above us.
Every now and then we’d get the smell of blossom and it turned out to be huge jasmine bushes.
There were many small villages on the way, one with a very defensive goose squawking away.
We passed a set of allotments where the vegetables had been sown in the shapes of a heart and an arrow.
We arrived at our hotel in a very sleepy quiet Las Herrerias about 11:30. They wouldn’t let us in so we had a coffee waiting for the rest to arrive. Across the road was a field of curious cows.
Ernest turned up first, having walked from Villafranca. The girls (Nicole, Alex, Janet, and Jude) were going to come by taxi and Tim was walking in later. We eventually got our key then went for lunch with Ernest at the cafe down the road.
We ordered sandwiches and Ernest had the menu. As we were finishing the girls turned up and it was great to see them again. Also in the cafe we met our very first Welshman, a young man called Dave from Bala. Apparently he and a few other of the young ones had brought instruments and had been jamming together. Dave has now sent his guitar on but Rio (we think that was his name) still has his ukelele so we may get some music later. Tim turned up as well and we had a pleasant hour catching up.
After a shower and chill we made our way downstairs to hear the awful news that the Birthday girl was ill. She has a gluten intolerance and even though was told at lunchtime that her meal was OK, it obviously wasn’t as she was being sick.
The rest of us gathered (including Laura and Ashley by now). Alex had got a cloth hat that we all signed, and a Happy Birthday light-up hair band. Janet did some Happy Birthday and Get Well signs that we posed with and sent them up to Nicole via WhatsApp.
We started on our food and Nicole felt well enough to join us for a while which we were really happy about.
It was a lovely evening, we’ll see some of them again in Santiago but had to say goodbye to others.
Jane and I are now packed up ready for tomorrow. We’ve got a 12.5 mile day and a big climb up the last mountain to O Cebreiro.
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Day 34 - Cacabelos to Trabadelo
Our phones are showing 14+ miles today with a 450m hill climbed.
We’ve got the get out down to pat now, we woke about 20 to 7 and were out by 10 past. There were 4 women in the dorm but the lady opposite was snoring really loudly. I think I must be getting used to it now as I slept quite well.
We stopped for breakfast in Cacabelos before we left as it was going to be quite a trek before our first stop.
The view from the bridge going out of town was very pretty. The path initially followed the road uphill and every now and then we’d look back on a lovely view.
We soon left the road and wandered back into wine country with people tending their vines and driving their tractors on the dirt tracks.
The views over to the mountains were really lovely and we passed through an old village with another couple of doer-uppers for Jane to tackle.
Eventually we arrived in Villafranca Del Bierzo, a sizeable interesting looking town with an impressive castle.
We stopped for a while for coffee then wandered on. On the other side of the river bridge was an option for a diversion up a hill. It would only add a couple of kms but I didn’t think it was such a great idea with Jane’s ankle. However, she wanted to test it out on a proper hill so up we went.
It was so nice to be away from the road and also to find out that our hill legs hadn’t deserted us. I think I worked out it was a 450m ish climb. We initially went up through scrub and trees and eventually ended up in a very fragrant pine forest. The views from the top were tremendous.
There were no facilities so we stopped at the top of a big climb for a drink and some snacks we had brought with us. We kept crossing over with a Portuguese man who we found out later had accidentally taken the mountain route!
After over 6 miles we approached a village, Pradela, serenaded by the sounds of cow bells. To our upmost joy and relief the cafe/Albergue was open. They made us fresh lemonade with real lemons, a cheese and tomato baguette, and home made walnut cake, and boy did it go down well.
There was only 3 kms to our final stop but it was all downhill, and quite a steep downhill at that. Luckily the path wasn’t stony and was straightforward to walk, if carefully.
We got to Casa Susi, our Albergue, not long after 3. We could do a whole blog on just this place. The couple who run it are an Australian women who bought the place in 2016 I think, and her Spanish husband who walked in as a Pilgrim and who never left! There are only 10 beds which are all in what would have been the cow shed. The gardens are lovely with a hammock and a cottage garden where they grow their own veg. A path leads down to the river where I had a paddle. Unfortunately a road runs over the river.
We all had the evening meal together, hosts included. They started by telling us their story, then we had to go around the table introducing ourselves and saying a bit about our Camino experiences so far. Dinner was vegetarian, wild garlic pesto and pasta, a white bean stew with veg, and home made tiramisu washed down with the local organic wine.
We’re all now settling for bed. Jane and I have a really short day tomorrow, just 10kms, as we’re meeting up with Nicole and the Texans for Nicole’s birthday.
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Day 33 - Molinaseca to Cacabelos
It was just under 14 miles today and relatively flat, and we’ve got less than 200kms to go!
After an easy night I woke to the smell of toast. We had ordered breakfast for 7 and when I checked my phone it was 5 past! I gave Jane a shake and we got downstairs pretty pronto. There was just the two of us for breakfast, it looked like most of the others had already disappeared.
We then got ourselves sorted and left our bags for pickup. We didn’t leave until 8 this morning, late for us.
The main part of the day was pavement pounding, into and out of Pontferrada and through villages on the way to where we are now in Cacabelos.
The views to the mountains on the way to Pontferrada were tremendous. We opted for the straightforward route in rather than going the long way through an extra village.
The route takes you past the very early Templar castle in Ponferrada and we stopped for a coffee overlooking the huge walls.
The way out of Ponferrada was quite nice, through a park and past playing fields where kids had their Saturday football matches.
Eventually we got back into a bit of countryside where we were getting small vineyards again and poppies by the side of the path. Yesterday we made friends with Gee Gee and Caroline from Boston and Rhode Island, and we met them again today on the path. Caroline was having trouble with a swollen shin so nurse Jane came to the rescue with freezing gel and a bandage to bind things up.
We passed an old majestic ruined house that Jane reckoned she could do something with…
A couple of villages in and we stopped again. Jane had a coffee and I had a fresh orange juice. The girls in the cafe were really friendly.
Carrying on we veered back to a main road and another more modern scruffy village where we stopped at a chemist for tissues (it’s amazing how many packs we have got through so far). Jane’s been effected by all the pollen too so got some hay fever stuff as well. Anyway, back on the road and this village just seemed to go on and on and on. We were both mightily relieved to get to the end!
We then had another few miles to go and finally ended back in the countryside, and it was lovely countryside with grass fields and more vineyards, before finally arriving in Cacabelos. We were both tired getting here, I think yesterday’s downhill took a bit out of us.
We found our place ok. It’s a hotel/hostel/restaurant. They are very friendly but this is the place I called and tried to book using my rudimentary Spanish a couple of weeks ago. Needless to say I can’t have done very well as they didn’t have our booking! Luckily they did have space, so we’re in a very nice room with two other women in proper beds with sheets and covers, and have towels! Luxury!
They also did a menu del dia so we dumped our stuff and ate. I had been craving a salad as we hadn’t eaten any veg for a couple of days so started with an ensalada mixta, then a main dish and finally this really delicious rich chocolate cheesecake, all washed down with wine.
The place is run by a husband and wife combo and they were hilarious. They were incredibly busy but it was fun watching them shout at each other, handle everyone (arrivals, food, drink), and still keep their sense of humour.
We had a couple of hours chilling and showering then went for a wander. We popped into the church and outside the cafe next door was a traditional Spanish band playing and singing. They just looked like they were doing it for fun.
The village has a large river so we took a gander along it for a bit. On the way back there was a chap stripping out of a wetsuit so he must have been for a swim.
Nothing much was open, so we’ve come back to put our feet up and chill. Tomorrow’s walk should be a bit shorter and should still be flat.
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Day 32 - Foncebadon to Molinaseca
Well, we’re in Molinaseca and all in one piece. It wasn’t as bad as was made out but still a bit dodgy in places. Jane was careful though stormed ahead of me at times, and we’ve got to here in one piece.
We set off very early this morning, up at 6 and out by half past. I had read that the sunrises were fabulous on the first part of the stretch and we wanted to see one. Unfortunately we walked up through the village in the thick mist. And it was blinking cold, down to 1 degree last night. It’s the first time we’ve had our gloves on (and I still managed to lose one on the way).
Once we got above the village and looked back we did get some lovely skies starting to glow but that was in between the clouds rolling in. We were looking back on the flat plains down to Leon.
After a couple of kms we arrived at the Cruz de Ferro. It’s an iconic part of the route and the highest point on the Camino. Traditionally you leave a stone to remember loved ones, so we paid our respects and Jane put her stone down for Stu, and then we carried on.
The stones on the path were very shale like and you had to be careful to follow a pre-worn route. The lavender was out in bloom by the side of the path and we were still hearing cuckoos despite the cloudy conditions. We stayed high for a couple of miles, dipping down at one point to a curious Albergue which the notice said was closed for renovations, not surprised by the state of it!
We also passed by lots of cows with bells on their necks clanging away on the hillside.
So finally we started the descent. It was similar to what we had experienced on Welsh mountains, we had our poles and we took our time letting anyone faster go past. There was one Korean lad who was obviously faster so we let him by, then he would stop to take photos, fall behind then come up behind us again to overtake. I got well and truly peeved after he did it for the third or fourth time.
While I remember, Koreans are in the highest number doing the Camino. They are a very catholic country and it’s seen as a rite of passage and good on your CV to walk the route.
Just before 10 we arrived at El Acebo for our breakfast, with a rainbow marking the village. It’s a quaint place, very alpine in its looks. We were starving by then so had empanadas (like a flat pasty) with coffee, but that wasn’t enough so had pain au chocolat and another coffee as well.
Stuffed we carried on our journey downwards. Just outside Acebo we met Laura from Germany who we hadn’t seen for a while and it was lovely walking with her to the next village where she was staying for the night. It had started raining a bit so our orange ponchos came out and we saw another huge vivid rainbow.
Leaving Laura behind we carried on downwards yet again for another 3 miles to finally get to Molinaseca. It’s a lovely place with narrow streets and overhanging balconies.
We’re staying in a bit of luxury tonight, in that it’s only a small place and there’s only one bunk bed in our room. Jane, despite her ankle, has elected to take the top bunk (I get up too many times in the night and disturb her). The bathroom is lovely with shower gel and shampoo provided, and we have been able to get our clothes washed for free. The Albergue seems to be run as a family affair and has only recently been converted.
We pottered in the Albergue then went out for a wander. There was nothing open at 4:30 but we managed to find a very local bar full of men playing card games. We knew the wine was a bit suspect when it made our mouths go red and was somewhat cloudy when you held it up to the light. The glass was none too new either.
A couple of drinks later we wandered around to the chemist as Jane needed some Paracetemol. I could hear some music so we followed that to see if it was somewhere serving food before 7 and we struck lucky. It was a kiosk set in funky grounds serving burgers and crepes.
We had the nicest burgers we have ever tasted - beef with with fried cecina (dried meat), strong local blue cheese and caramelised onions. Superb! Followed by a crepe of course.
Back at the Albergue we’re chilling and will hopefully get a good night’s sleep. We’ve ordered breakfast here too before a flat 13.7 mile day tomorrow.
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Day 31 - Santa Catalina to Foncebadon
Today was just over 10 miles without backpacks.
It ended up as just me and Jane in the dorm last night, very unusual but we weren’t complaining. We woke at 7 and were on the road by half past. The morning light on the street and our albergue was lovely.
It was cold walking. The temperature has fallen and we’re climbing higher. At one point a week or so ago I was thinking of getting rid of my sleeping bag as I was too hot at night but now I’m glad I didn’t.
We could see on the map that there was a village about 4K away which indicated that it had cafes or albergues so we thought we’d have breakfast there. As we approached we could see tepees where pilgrims could stay. Unfortunately when we got there nothing was open! Calamity! How would Jane manage without her coffee?
There was nothing for it but to carry on, which we did until we found a picnic spot and dredged up the last of the slightly stale small pain au chocolats we had left over from the Airbnb and downed them with water.
The landscape has changed completely, we can see the mountains in the near distance and our path is flanked by some amazing colours and smells. We have lavender bushes, white broom, yellow gorse and lots of different coloured heathers, and even a few bluebells. The pine forest scent has been wonderful. As always we’ve been followed by the noise of cuckoos.
As we walked towards Rabanal we came across a long fence into which people had woven wooden crosses.
Finally reaching Rabanal after 7 miles we had an extended coffee stop with tostada. In fact we had two coffees just to make up for earlier disappointment.
In the compound of the place we stopped were donkeys and across the road a field of long-horned cows. Rabanal village itself was very pretty with one main street winding upwards. We stopped briefly to have a look inside the church with its ornate altar piece.
We then had 3-4 miles climbing steadily upwards. It was a lovely walk, mainly away from the roads. But the path was stony so Jane had to take extra care where she placed her feet.
We thought we had left the Cymru Am Byth vandals behind but it seems that their pen having run out they bought a can of spray paint and it looks even worse than their black pen did.
It wasn’t long before we reached Foncebadon, our stop for the night. The hostel is full this time, and modern inside. We did try to get two bottom bunks but weren’t allowed, so this time I’m on the top bunk. It’s a mixed room of 6 with a very swish en-suite. The only problem is that the walls are not very thick so you can hear everything and also the noise from other bathrooms. Oh well, earplugs will be in use tonight.
They did a set pilgrims’ menu so we had that for lunch. We both though the pudding was the best, it was like a deconstructed cheesecake.
It’s very windy outside so I had a shower, washed my smalls and got them and my towel on the line while Jane had a chill.
After a few hours a coffee and some delicious home made orange sponge cake was in order while we had a chat about tomorrow and what we would do when we finished in Santiago.
Tomorrow we’ll be climbing a little bit higher to the Cruz de Ferro, the cross at the highest point on the Camino. The next part down to Molinaseca will be a bit more tricky as it’s a steep scree path over 7 miles long and about 900m descent in total. We’ve both got walking poles to help us and if it gets too much for Jane then there’s a village halfway down that you can get a taxi from. However, in the past we’ve been given scare stories on previous parts of the Camino and they have all been absolutely fine. I keep telling Jane it’s like coming down Machen Mountain 3 times, we’ll be fine!
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Day 30 - Leon - Astorga - Santa Catalina de Somoza
We’re on the road again! We have bypassed two sections (less than 30 miles) taking the bus to Astorga and then walking from there.
The bus trip was very easy and we didn’t need to leave at the crack of dawn, catching a non-stop bus at 10:15. It was weird packing up our rucksacks after the break we’ve had. Oh boy did they feel heavy! We’ve carried them today as we weren’t sure how far we could get them transported.
The bus station in Leon was about a 15 minute walk from the Airbnb and in Astorga it was right in the middle of town, minutes from the old walls, cathedral and Gaudi house.
We had a brief stop in Astorga to take some photos then carried on, stopping for coffee at the edge of town.
The countryside has changed again, instead of the flat endless plains we’re now back in rolling countryside in reach of the hills.
A short way down the road was a lovely small church where we stopped to have a nose inside and get our pilgrim passports stamped.
After the next village we took a diversion along a rough country track which eventually led us to Castrillo de Polvadares, a restored village. It was lovely being back in the country again, on the way we were followed by butterflies and as well as hearing the cuckoos again we could also hear woodpeckers. Our roadside flower companions were lavender bushes.
The village was really pretty and picturesque, though Jane had to be careful with all the cobblestones.
A few miles later we came to our stop for the night. It’s only been a 7 mile walk but far enough for Jane who enjoyed a rest.
In the bunkhouse the bunk rooms are very small with lots of bunks in, but it was only 10 euros each so can’t complain and so far we’re the only ones here. It’s a bit grotty with paint coming off the walls and Jane saw things moving in the shower (I didn’t). But the water was hot and plentiful. Jane’s convinced that if anywhere is likely to have bedbugs this place is so has been around my bed anointing it with lavender oil! Smells lovely.
After our showers we went to the Albergue/cafe down the road for a few beers and tapas as it looked nicer and sat out in the sun listening to the others. There was a French woman, Danish man, and a German girl and they talked in English as their means of communication. Over the road the storks were clacking away on the church tower.
After a couple of beers we went back to our place for food. I asked via Translate whether the pizzas were home made and he nodded so we ordered a couple. He then went out the back and brought in what looked like two in a plastic bag. Nonetheless they were actually quite nice and enjoyed them even though we were sitting under the telly showing a soap. An ice cream followed and now we’re lying in bed at 7pm wondering what to do.
We can’t believe how quiet it is here, usually it‘s teeming with pilgrims so there are plenty of people to talk to but the village is in between stages so that’s probably why.
We’ve arranged our bag transfer for the next 4 days now so hopefully that’ll help the pressure on Jane’s ankle.
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