roadkill-vulture
Adventures in Grabbing Dead Shit off the Road
301 posts
Don't wanna be here? Send us removal request.
Last Seen Blogs
olciaaa1529
🌸cotton wind blow blouse🌸
mistressanjali
Queen
justwantedtoscrolldown
random someone
fredyrachman
Goresan Sederhana
theotherpot8os
a potato that draws
Text
I couldn't afford flowers for my partner, so instead I went into the forest and made a bouquet out of shit I found. Including this roll of wood, which I was able to use to hold the arrangement together and write a note on.
Yes, we are gay. 😂
3 notes
·
View notes
Text
My dog is 12 and my cat is 18, and it’s so sad watching them get old and be able to do less and less with them. :(
The dog I grew up with is 15 now, I go and walk her sometimes and its so heartbreaking cuz the walk has to be sooo short cuz she’s elderly :( she’s the most beautiful and smart girl on planet earth. Her name is sadie and she’s a great pyr mix
76 notes
·
View notes
Note
Or you pull over to grab it and the person behind you runs it over so now the pelt is damaged and the skull unsalvageable. I've had that happen so many god damn times!
on my way to the dog park i found a large buck at the side of the road with most of his antlers in tact and all i could think of were your awesome instructions on how 2 remove the head and i got so sad that i couldnt give it a shot
Salvageable roadkill has an 80% chance of spawning at the most inopportune moment or is an animal you can’t have for legal reasons, true story :( !!
46 notes
·
View notes
Text
So I have a concept for a headdress I've been wanting to do in which it'll be like a cowl. I'd be doing it on a discount. The features and information would be as follows:
*Can be Coyote in any morph.
*Leather and inside of the headdress would be lined with black fleece to ensure the long term integrity of the headdress.
*The edges would be folded over or lined with fur for softer edges leading to better aesthetic appearance.
*Adjustable, tear resistant leather straps would be added to secure it to your head.
*Glass eyes in any color or colors.
*I can see about adding custom markings if this is based on a character or fursona.
*A tail can either be affixed to the back bottom of the cowl or a belt loop added for you to wear it.
We can work out a payment plan, but payment is due in full before it is to be shipped out. The cost would vary depending on several factors. I quoted someone recently $180 for a Red Eastern Coyote supplied and tanned by me with standard Payer glass Coyote eyes. Supplying your own tanned pelt will reduce the cost considerably, and would knock about $80 off that estimate.
Please allow up to 12 weeks for completion, longer if it requires tanning. I don't have much in my queue so I'd guess it'll take more like 3-4, but I'd rather over estimate than under estimate. If you need priority completion by a certain date, we can work something out for an added fee.
~~~~~~~~
Please message me with this form filled if you're interested and I can give you a quote.
Name:
Email Address:
What eye color would you like?
Do you want the tail to hang from the bottom of the headdress, or separate so you can wear it?
If you want to wear it, do you want the tail to be able to be looped through a belt or would you rather a clip on mechanism?
If you want to wear it, do you want it lined so it is extra tug resistant?
If you don't have a pelt, what color Coyote would you like? (Standard, Light standard, Dark Standard, Red, Blonde, Black, etc.)
If you have a pelt, is it tanned?
Is it prepped for taxidermy? (Not necessary, but it helps.)
Is there damage? If so, what and where?
Please attach a picture of the pelt.
Are there any spiritual or religious considerations that must be adhered to in the production of this?
Are you allergic to any domestic animals?
Any comments, questions, or requests?
~~~~~~~
These are some headdresses I did awhile back for example.
27 notes
·
View notes
Text
PRICE REDUCED - $100, Shipping included in price. Canadian Timberwolf Pelt.
Nothing majorly wrong with it for the price. I'm just in a major bind and have to part with her. She's durable and won't fall apart and can be rehydrated. Was taxidermy prepped, but not mountable, but will rehydrate fine so you could make a simple headdress out of it.
She's 50“ nose to butt. Tail was over 20". Leather by the legs is stretchy and durable, the missing paw should be able to be sewn back on no problem.
Damage:
1. Missing tail.
2. One of the back legs is detached, but comes with the pelt. Leather by the legs is durable and stretchy, and can should be able to be reattached just fine.
3. Tear by the mouth.
4. Damaged claw on front left.
5. Ear is torn at base.
6. Hole in snout.
7. Enlarged eye hole.
36 notes
·
View notes
Text
W❤️lf, Wisconsin. $120
I have the missing foot. It's just not attached. With all have pads and claws. Do not have the tail.
Was taxidermy prepped, but can't guarantee the head is still mountable. It's in pretty good condition though. Leather is still durable.
Was going to use her for a project, but ended up just keeping her. But I'm not in a good spot atm.
NO HOLDS.
17 notes
·
View notes
Text
20" inch Wolf tail for sale.
$45 shipped
Belt loop added so it can be worn. Comes with chain and carabiner for hanging and wearing.
Comment or PM if interested.
Sorry, I no longer accept holds without a deposit!
7 notes
·
View notes
Text
How I Treat URIs in my Rattery
Disclaimer: It is always best practice to see a veterinarian experienced with rats when dealing with health and medical issues. However, there's reasons some people may choose to treat at home. Some people have a rat very prone to URIs and can't afford frequent vet visits, but have learned to recognize the symptoms. Some vets don't know what they're doing, and send the rat home with improper or inadequate medication, and won't listen even with scientific evidence presented. Some people live somewhere without access to a vet, or some people simply cannot afford it. Medicating at home comes with risks. You must be willing to take the animal to the vet or euthanize using an AVMA approved method if something goes wrong or their condition worsens. Read carefully, please.
------------------------------------
What you will need:
*API Fin & Body Cure (Doxycycline)
*1mL or cc syringe (3mL or cc can work, but is harder to dose accurately. 1mL is preferred for dosing.)
*A kitchen scale or other scale that can weigh in grams.
*Reverse Osmosis purified pure water with no minerals added. Distilled can work too.
*A small bottle with cap, preferably amber.
My preferred method of treating URIs is using Doxycycline from API. I purchase this at Petsmart, and it should cost between $15-20. You may also be able to find it at Petco or a fish store. It comes with 10 packs, and each has 100mg of Doxycycline in it.
You can also get Doxycycline and Enrofloxacin (Baytril) from LadyGouldianFinch [LINK]. However, this guide will be detailing how to treat with the API product above. Unless you know how to do the math, do not use this guide with any other product that does not have capsules or packets of Doxycycline in 100mg doses.
Dosage and Treatment Reigmen:
5 mg (Miligrams) per kg (Kilograms). - Meaning, for every kilogram (1000 grams) your rat weighs, they need 5mg of Doxycycline.
Your rat will take this orally (by mouth) twice daily, ideally 12 hours apart, for two weeks. It is important you continue even if they show complete cessation of symptoms after a few days. See step four in the preparation directions for further instructions on dosing.
This should treat mild to Moderate URIs. URIs that are not responding in a reasonable amount of time may need their dosage doubled and/or Enrofloxacin (Baytril) added. Severe or Advanced URIs should ideally see a vet. If this is not possible, double the dosage and add Enrofloxacin.
Source for Dosage Guidelines: [LINK]
Preparation of the Solution:
*Step 1: Take the packet, open it, and put it into a small container. An amber bottle is best if possible.
*Step 2: Get a syringe, you can get them at the pharmacy. Measure out 20mL or 20cc of distilled or Reverse osmosis water (Don't use sink water unless you have a reverse osmosis system!) and add it to the container. Shake well, and shake well every time you dose. Do not eyeball or guess, you need to be able to accurately measure this!
This will make the solution 0.5mg for every 0.1mL of the solution.
*Step 3: Shake it well, ensure you shake before each dosing.
*Step 4: Dose 0.1mL per every 100g (grams) your rat weighs. Round up, not down. You'll ideally need a 1mL syringe to do this accurately.
*Step 5: Store in the refrigerator and away from light. It MUST be refrigerated and away from light, or it will quickly lose effectiveness. It can hold for up to two weeks in the refrigerator, but I really recommended making a new solution weekly if possible.
Warnings and Suggestions:
Pregnant and nursing rats should see a vet ideally. This will cause pregnant rats to lose their litters typically, or the babies to be born with issues. Cull any babies that appear to have issues or are not meeting developmental milestones.
To medicate, watch a YouTube video on how to burrito them. Basically, wrap them in a towel, and scruff them from with outside of the towel. This will allow you to dispense medicine.
Alternatively, you can try to mix the medication with food such lactose free yogurt, applesauce, or Hershey's syrup is one I see recommended. You must mix thoroughly and ensure they consume ALL of it.
Add probiotics such as Benebac to reduce digestive discomfort.
Have clean, fresh water available and soft foods. It's important they stay hydrated, so I don't recommend adding apple cider vinegar like many suggest unless you know they'll drink the same amount with it added, and eat as well, as some rats with URIs do not want to eat. Baby food, especially meat ones, work well here for helping with hydration and eating.
Keep the rats clean and in a room with good circulation. Ammonia build up is one of the main causes of URIs. If you can smell the cage, it needed to be cleaned yesterday basically.
Paper beddings like carefresh and fabric beddings fleece are very poor at controlling ammonia, and need to be change every 3 days at max, every other day or daily is ideal, especially if you have more than two several rats or they aren't litter trained. Kiln dried pine or Aspen are better at ammonia control by nearly 10 fold and can go longer between changings.
Drill holes into their hides or use hides with extra openings to encourage more ventilation.
Avoid breeding rats that are getting frequent URIs despite proper care.
Some rats need to be on antibiotics long term.
Many swear by a small amount of dark chocolate to help with symptoms.
If you have any questions of need additional guidance I highly suggest the Facebook groups Realistic Pet Rat Owners or Realistic Rat Breeders. You may also contact me.
34 notes
·
View notes
Text
Selling my wolf paw! Have CITES info. Comment or PM if interested. From a taxidermy prepped pelt. A couple years old, still has good stretch and strength, should rehydrate fine.
44 notes
·
View notes
Text
I highly recommend the Realistic Rat Breeders as well as Rat Breeding and Genetics Facebook groups! I read there a long time before I started breeding, and I didn't realize just how much misinformation about rats and breeding is out there.
I Am Going To Be A Rat Breeder One Day
7 notes
·
View notes
Text
That's irrelevant to the point I'm making here. The point is that mink releases do not equal the minks living a happy and free life in the wild like the original post makes it out to be. They suffer and die in a much more horrible way than they would on the farm, and damage the local ecology. If you've ever seen an animal struck by a car and live, "they'll die anyway" will seem like a pretty weak justification for releasing them into a painful death.
Mink releases may not even cause an end to the farm. As I said, many will be recaptured, as they won't stray too far away from the farm and will come seeking food, as they don't have the drive, skill, or familiarity to hunt natural prey. Farms also come to expect this, and may have insurance policies or savings to replenish their stock.
As far as need? Maybe if you live in a moderate or warm climate it isn't, but that's not everyone. It got to nearly -30 F in my area last year, and I live in the contagious US. Double digit negatives are a normal occurrence, and January it doesn't get above single digits generally. It's below freezing for virtually 3-4 months straight. So I'll go the fur route before I buy a crappy synthetic coat, considering fur is more environmentally friendly than synthetics.
ALF Free Mink and Destroy Breeding Cards at Pennsylvania Fur Farm
“Last night, the Animal Liberation Front opened hundreds of cages at the Rykola mink farm located at 557 Colver Road in Ebensburg, Pennsylvania. We lost count of the number of wild animals freed into their natural environment, due to the animals being housed in atrocious conditions, four to tiny cob-webbed cages. Words can not describe the filth and blinding stench of this farm.
As expected, the animals wasted no time escaping from their barren prisons into the natural world.
In addition to opening cages, we destroyed hundreds of breeding cards, many with notations of price, which ran from $1,000 up to $10,000 per animal.
We want to reiterate, as several recent ALF communiques have, the ease of animal liberation. We possess no specialized skill set or expensive tools. A sense of determination and a desire for justice go a long way.
Pelting season is just weeks away. Look up The Final Nail and find a farm near you. Let the final stage of Operation Bite Back commence. We can destroy this industry that has destroyed so many.”
68 notes
·
View notes
Note
Hey!! So I’m super excited because I found an almost-complete deer skeleton today, and it’s the biggest thing I’ve found so far! The skull and jaw are both intact and all of the teeth are still in them. The last deer skull I found I cleaned in hydrogen peroxide and all of the teeth fell out, which I would like to avoid. Do you know of any relatively painless methods of cleaning that would keep the teeth from falling out? Thank you!!
Teeth failing out is normal and actually a good thing. You'll be able to clean and degrease better. You'll just have to glue the teeth back in. I use superglue, but you may want to use Elmer's in case you make a mistake.
3 notes
·
View notes
Note
Do you take payment plans?
Yes, I actually don't like being paid the full amount up front. I accept payment plans (I'm pretty flexible, it's just it has to be paid in full before being sent out) and payment on completion. I may start requiring deposits for cost of materials, as I've had three people now commission something and bail around completion.
If you're interested in a headdress, skull cleaning, or hide tanning, send an email to:
Or "Marx Allen (Marcus)" on Facebook. I'm the only person with that name. Otherwise link me to your FB and I'll contact you.
5 notes
·
View notes
Text
I have an absolute shit ton of deer ear liners if anyone wants to trade them for eyes or raw pelts.
5 notes
·
View notes