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Europe 2019: Day 21, St Gallen to Denver
Sunday 15-Sep
Up at 7:00, Russ had terrible stuffed nose through night. Out door by 9:00 to walk the town center of St Gallen. Pointing out various building renovations done by Markus
In train to airport at 10:55, arrive 11:46, through security by 12:25. Flight departed on time, 14:50. Landed in Denver 22:00, home by 11:30
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Europe 2019: Day 20, St Gallen day 2
Saturday 14-Sep
Up at 7:00 Out door by 9:00
Drove over to lake Bodensee at Mannenbach. Caught boat up to Stein am Rhine. Walked around the town. Had brats and drinks from MarktBrunnen. Stopped in Uferlos - An der Schifflände for coffee
John and Barbara tried to find a geocache but couldnât. Caught train back to car then drove over to Rheinfall. Drove back through Gossau to see Barbaraâs brothers printing shop. Then home
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Europe 2019: Day 19, St Gallen day 1
Friday 13-Sep
Up at 7:00 Out door by 9:00
Drove over to Brulisau rode up Hoher Kasten, hike over to Furgglenfirst and down into valley for a total of 12 miles. Found a few geocache along route, had some steep sections to mentally work through and bought fresh cheese!
Had a beer and tonic once back to base. I was sore and tired. Stopped at Coop and bought a few things for dinner. Went home and made bacon and pineapple raclette
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Europe 2019: Day 18, Zermatt to St Gallen
Thursday 12-Sep
Up at 7:00 same breakfast, checkout at 9:00, picked up few souvenirs caught train out of Zermatt 10:37 onto Visp
Caught train out of Visp at 11:56 onto Zurich HB
Caught train out of Zurich HB at 14:09 onto St Gallen arrived 15:22
Going through Winterthur notices all these âcommunity gardensâ, went on and on. Wondering if they were more than gardens, perhaps homesteads? Another interesting observation is the station arrivals are only German. All other trains had multiple languages
Found Barbara and Markus. Had dinner at their home and socialized until 22:00, then off to bed
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Europe 2019: Day 17, Zermatt day 3
Wednesday 11-Sep
Up at 8:00, the usual breakfast out door by 9:45
Took gondola up to Trockener Steg then hiked down the Matterhorn Glacier trail to the gondola Schwarzsee access station. This hike was another amazing one. Constant up close views of the Matterhorn. We even saw hikers along some of the lower ridges. Best of all was the close encounter with the glacier. Touching it, looking into the empty gaping half circle sections that had melted. One of my favorite hikes. We stopped in the midst of the hike for sandwich lunch. It is worth noting some of the switchbacks on the last kilometer of this hike were STEEP
From the Schwarzsee station we took gondola up and transferred to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise gondola in order to take in the view one last time
Took the gondolas back down to the Furrinstop, hit off and took the hiking trail back through Gornergorge, a beautiful narrow stream canyon with steep sides. Not too bad for me because the path was along solid wooden planks built into the canyon walls. Continued back into town
Dinner at North Wall, delicious make your own pizza followed by delicious cold brownie in a jar!
Back to hotel at 19:00 and down to the lounge
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Europe 2019: Day 16, Zermatt day 2
Tuesday 10-Sep
Up at 8 out by 10
Got the Sunnegga - Rothorn fanicular up the mountain. From top of fanicular took hike over/up to Fluhalp lodge
Hike up to Findel Glacier moraine. A few pretty steep parts that I couldnât stomach too well. It was nice to have the trails to ourself. We went 2 - 2 1/2 hours without seeing anyone. We were well rewarded with phenomenal views of the glacier. Logged about 10 miles total on that hike
Hike down to fanicular
Up the train (Gornergrat Bahn) to Gornergrat, hoping to grab a beer but everything was closed down. It was 16:30 and not many people due to cold and cloudy wether. So back down on the 17:00 train
Tried to go to dinner at Papperla Pub but I was not impressed with initial appearance so plan B ended up being Italian at Le Chalet. Fabulous dinner, owner kept breaking out in Italian songs. They dropped complimentary champagne for starters along with bread and tomatoes. Then after our main entrees were done they dropped a plate of cheese, I guess we were supposed to enjoy a chunk or two. Finally with dessert they dropped a bottle of grappa on the table đ¤. Delicious meal nonetheless
Back to hotel by 20:00 and down to bar for normal evening relaxation
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Europe 2019: Day 15, Zermatt day 1
Monday 9-Sep
Up at 7:45 continental breakfast and out the door 9:00
10:00 took train (Gornergrat Bahn) up to Gornergrat. What spectacular views, actual glaciers! Chatted with a couple guys who were BIKING down! They were from British Columbia and Washington. From there we hiked down to Riffelberg, ate our sack lunch while waiting for train to return to town
On the return train I sat with and chatted up with a real life astronaut, Rick Hauck! He was with his wife Susan. We chatted about their trips to the Arctic and Antarctica as well as journeying in space. He commanded the first shuttle to go up after the Challenger explosion. What an experience, it made my trip! John also recognized the same couple we ran into on the train from Grindelwald back to Wengen. From end of town we hopped onto the Matterhorn Express / Furgg-Schwarzsee Gondola then the Tockener Steg Matterhorn a massive gondola carrying 28 people comfortably up to Glacier Paradise. More spectacular views - but a bit chilly. Again chatted with some Americans from South Boulder and Vermont. It also had a Glacier Palace that was basically a tunnel drilled through one of the glaciers. Way cool.
Gondolas back down to the Furi unload station to start another hike back to town. This hike took us up the Furgg Furi trail over the Hangebrucke suspension bridge - I did not look down, eyes forward going faster and faster. My heart rate only rose from 109 to 119. From the bridge the trail winds back down into town
Grab a delicious dinner at Schaferstube. I had Lamb fillet and John had Lamb Rack. Back at hotel 20:00. Exhausted
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Europe 2019: Day 14, Wengen to Zermatt
Sunday 8-Sep
Up at 7:45. Cloudiest and wettest morning so far. Not sure about our agenda. Pack up and check out first
Our door at 9:45, caught 10:03 train down to Lauterbrunnen, arrive 10:19
Transfer 10:32 Train to Interlaken arrive 10:55
Transfer 11:00 Train to Speiz arrive 11:22
Transfer 11:37 Train (via huge long tunnel) to Visp arrive 12:03. Very sunny on this side of tunnel. Very similar to Colorado. Seems drier here as there are many grape vineyards
Transfer 12:08 Tran to Zermatt arrive 13:12
13:45: Checked in
Off to find a bite. Google maps lead us over to Du Pont. John had sausage and shredded potatoes, I had shredded potatoes with ham cheese and eggs! Both very delicious and filling
Stopped by the Coop (grocery store - an actual little Whole Foods type store) for a few nibbles. Back to hotel and scoped out a short hike
Took a hike over the tracks over to west side of valley. The trail was part of the hike to Edelweiss Hut. Crossed over a nice flowing stream. Back down into central part of Village and located a geocache back up a walk that ended at the steel cross, not far from the trail we were on earlier. Decided to take it back the way we came
Back at room finished unpacking then down to cute little hotel bar for a drink and for me to catch up on days journal
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Europe 2019: Day 13, Wengen day 2
Saturday 7-Sep
Up at 7:45, another cloudy cool morning, same breakfast as yesterday, eyeing some hiking on other side of valley - up the Grutschalp ... Out door by 9:45
The marathon route passes by our hotel at marker 30 K, cheered on runners passing by
Train down to Lauterbrunnen then up Grutschalp cable tram. Hiked from there over to Winteregg and then onto Murren
From there hiked âstraight UPâ a trail and over to the Flower Trail at Allmendhubel viewing area at top of Murren funicular
Had lunch at Pasci cafe there. Afterward hiked back down, trough a lot of cow shit, to Murren to catch train back to top of Grutschalp tram
Caught train back up to Wengen, stayed on in order to go all the way up to Kleine Scheidegg, this is where the marathon from Interlakken finished. Stopped into the viewing restaurant for a couple drinks then back down the train to Wengen. Wiped out by 19:00
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Europe 2019: Day 12, Wengen day 1
Friday 6-Sep
Up at 8, continental breakfast at hotel out door by 9:30
Took cable tram up to Mannlichen, cloudy, cool with fresh snow on ground.
Hike over to Kleine Scheifegg
Hopped on train up to Jungfraujoch but found out or ticket didnât cover that route so we got off at 1st stop Eigergletscher and hiked back down to Kleine Scheidegg
Jumped on train down into Grindwald
Lunch in Grindwald at C und M cafe
Hike up the Eiger Ultra Trail
Train to Lauterbrunnen
Hike up to viewing at Staubbach Falls
Dinner in Lauterbrunnen at Jungfrauj Restaurant
8:37 train back up to Wengen
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Europe 2019: Day 11, Edinburgh to Wengen
Thursday 5-Sep
Up at 5:00 out door at 5:45, on bus at 6:00 at airport by 6:20
Depart Edinburgh at 9:30 landed Heathrow at 10:30
Depart Heathrow 15:45 landed Zurich 18:00 local time.
19:46 train depart ZĂźrich arrived 21:03 in Bern
21:06 Transfer in Bern arrived 21:57 in Interlaken
22:02 Transfer in Interlaken arrived 22:22 in Lauterbrunen
22:30 transfer arrived in Wegen 22:41
Checked in at 23:00
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Europe 2019: Day 10, Edinburgh day 4
Wednesday 4-Sep
Up at 8 out by 9:30
Arthur seat hike
Lunch: Rock Salt
Wet damp day, John rested his sore throat at hotel whilst I took a lower loop walk around the Castle Rock wall base.
Dinner at Vittoria on the Bridge. Meals were meh, wait staff was meh.
Back to hotel to pack for an early departure.
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Europe 2019: Day 9, Edinburgh day 3
Tuesday 3-Sep
Up at 8:00 same breakfast out the door at 10-ish. Picked up a sandwich wrap for the road.
Took Lothian Bus service out to Roslyn Chapel. Toured the grounds ending with a nice quiet stroll down to yet another castle ruins. Back up to the main township for a sweet at Dollyâs Tea Room. Caught another bus over to Portobello Beach - finally got my toes and entire foot into The North Sea (or at least The Firth of Forth). Back on the bus to return to city town center and the hotel. Somewhere between the beach and town center I lost possession of my hat.
Quick rest and off to Contini Cannonball Restaurant and Bar. Having pork belly and Cullen Skink (haddock soup), along with east coast oysters that were meh (so, so)up at.
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Europe 2019: Day 8, Edinburgh day 2
Monday 2-Sep
Up at 8, continental breakfast and out the door at 10:30. Low energy today. But it turned out to be an active day.
Started by doing The Majestic Route on the Edinburgh Bus Tours. Started at the Waverley Bridge stop. Got off at Riyal Botanical Garden stop. Walked back to the Water of Leith walkway path and headed upstream toward Dean Village. Stopped at a little cafe called Braw where we had pastry and drinks. The owner insisted we try Haggis, we enjoyed it. Walked back along the path and got back onto the route Canonmills, Stockbridge.
Stayed on the bus until Ocean Terminal to get a glimpse of The Royal Yacht Britannia. Didnât feel the need to pay for a tour of the ship...nothing else there except for a shopping mall. Not a worthwhile stop so back on we go and next get off at Great Street Junction - my Hope was to get close enough to dip my toes into The North Sea. NOT going to happen, after walking along another section of the Water of Leith for about 1/2 mile we realized the sea was too far of. We sat down to eat our sandwich we picked up back at Raw. Then back to the same stop to hop onto the bus again.
This time our plan was to loop around to the Botanical Gardens walk around a bit then catch a later bus back along the loop. Unfortunately traffic was terrible and time was getting short so we hopped off at Canongate and took a quick tour through the Museum of Edinburgh. Finished the day by walking rest of way up along the Royal Mile stopping into the Whisky Bar & Restaurant for a quick refresher. Back to the hotel to cat nap and freshen up then up to Cannonball Restaurant & Bar for dinner - only to realize they are closed (for Monday or longer we arenât quite sure). Plan B was dinner at Auld Jockâs Kitchen. Excellent choice.
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Europe 2019: Day 7, Edinburgh day 1
Sunday 1-Sep
Up at 7:00 and down to the hotel cafe for a continental breakfast.
Walk over to Royal Mile (neither royal nor a mile, discuss) to meet our tour guide for Edinburgh Castle. Melanie Boyd was our guide and she was fantastic. From 10:00 to noonish she gave us a very insightful narrative about the Castle. After the formal tour we were let loose to check out the grounds on our own. Again, too much to see and too many other tourists. We had a quick brown bag sandwich, ventured about and called it a day.
Melanie suggested Water of Leith Walkway and Rosalyn Chapel. Put them on our list!
Stopped in at Southern Cross cafe for a sweet snack: Chocolate Orange cake and beverages
Dinner: Southpour. Food was good, wait staff so-so.
On way home decided to make another swing through Artisan Gelato for dessert.
Back to the Apex Hotel.
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Europe 2019: Day 6 London to Edinburgh
Saturday 31-Aug
Up at 7, checkout and take underground to Kings Cross station where thereâs an actual Platform 9 3/4!
LNER train left promptly at 10:30
11:13 Peterborough stop
11:44 Newark Northgate stop
12:13 Doncaster stop
12:35 York stop
12:57 Northallerton stop
13:09 Darlington stop
13:27 Durham stop
13:42 Newcastle stop
15:06 Edinburgh Arrival
Very hilly walk over to Apex City hotel. Unpacked and did some laundry. Found out room has only heat - no AC! Would later realize why...
Dinner: Gurkha Cafe & restaurant. During dinner we missed a nice rain shower as the street and walks were all wet once we exited.
Afterward walked over to Calton Hill and walk around the grounds taking in beautiful vistas of the city and coast.
Scooped out a potential hike over at Holyrood Park and Arthurâs Seat.
Walked back through the Royal Mile toward our hotel finding a few good gift shops to return to as well as warming up with a couple cappuccinos at Artisan Gelato Edinburgh.
Weather turned quite cool once sun went down. Thatâs why no A/C necessary.
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Europe 2019: London day 5
Friday 30-Aug
We had set an alarm for 7 AM (for some reason). Slept through it to start day at 8.
Breakfast: Balkans SoHo Society (the mid block one not the corner one)
Tate Museum:
Things to do follow up research on:
Thebritishlibraryinstallation.com.
Yinka Shonibare CBE
My fav exhibits (1) The tower of radios (2) The Blue Line
Lunch at Borough Market where we split a sausage roll / kabob
Walked over the Millennium Bridge and caught one of last of the dayâs entry into St Paulâs cathedral. I walked up the 376 steps to the stone gallery at base of dome but would not join John on the remaining remaining 152 steps to the golden gallery at top of dome.
Commute home was packed! Took three trains before we were able to squeeze on.
Dinner: Kricket in SoHo! Fantastic Indian small plates. We had Pakoras, beef kabob, pork cheek and scallops.
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