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madhaut · 2 years

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everything but the bathroom sink

Hey! It's been a while. Let's get right into it. Below I've catalogued every facial skincare product in my cabinet right now, travel products excluded. I like everything I have, or else I wouldn't have it.

Legend: (1) I use it every day (2) I use it 1 or more times per week (3) I use it infrequently but, in most cases, at least once per month

Cleansers

(1) Biologique Recherche - Lait VIP O2 The goat of cream cleansers. (1) Cetaphil - Daily Facial Cleanser The goat of gel cleansers. (2) iS CLINICAL - Cleansing Complex My shower cleanser. (2) Dr. Hauschka - Soothing Cleansing Milk Found it at Central Market and liked the texture; I use it instead of or in combination with the BR Lait cleanser sometimes. (2) Biologique Recherche - Eau Micellaire Biosensible PM product; pre-cleanse makeup remover on the off-chance I wore makeup that day. (2) Clinique - Take The Day Off Cleansing Oil Pre-shower cleanser. (3) Institut Esthederm - Osmoclean Gentle Deep Pore Cleanser Only a 3 because I haven't opened it yet. It's "on deck," so to speak.

Eye Treatments

(1) Exquisite - Eye Complex AM product; super-hydrating caffeine eye gel. Don't judge me re: the price. (1) COSRX - Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream PM product; the perfect eye product. If I had to use only one eye cream the rest of my life, it would be this one. (2) Patchology - Rejuvenating Under Eye Gels They're good. Sometimes I deviate from my favorite products just to keep it interesting > the best eye patches are actually from WANDER because they don't slip (I have mentioned these on the blog before). (3) NIOD - Fractionated Eye-Contour Concentrate (FECC) This started to cause some mild irritation on my upper eyelids some months back. I can't get rid of it but have not been using it - will revisit.

Masks

(2) Biologique Recherche - Masque Vivant The goat. If I had to use only one masque the rest of my life, this would be it. Yes, it's brown and smells like teriyaki sauce, but it delivers. Trust. (2) Biologique Recherche - Masque VIP O2 Nice in combination with the Masque Vivant, and also on its own. Beautiful texture; face feels amazing when it's on, as well as after rinsing. (2) MEDIHEAL - Collagen Essential Lifting & Firming Face Mask Chill, gentle sheet mask - really important this time of year as the weather changes and skin tends drier. (3) Glamglow - Supermud Activated Charcoal Mask I have the mini size, just for fun. (3) Then I Met You - Rosé Resurfacing Facial Mask I bought this a LONG time ago and shelved it for an indeterminable number of months. Beautiful packaging and concept. Pink gel mask with bits of rose petals in it - PACKED with AHAs/BHAs. Don't let the pretty, innocent-looking hue fool you. It will rip your face off. I can only tolerate it for up to 10 minutes. Sometimes you need the feeling of full face rebirth though.

Toners

(1) Honest - Beauty Elevated Hydration Mist This product "honest"ly annoys me but not enough to get rid of it. It does what it should. I only use it every day because I need a mist every day. I don't like letting my face completely dry out after cleansing/showering before applying something else, so a mist is essential for me. What bothers me is it's marketed as "watermelon" - there is nothing melon-y about this. The smell is not even good. I don't know. Whatever. It's fine. Don't buy it though. An actually-awesome mist that I love and recently finished is Tata Harper - Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Floral Essence (expensive, but lasts). (2) Biologique Recherche - Lotion P50 1970 I don't think I'll ever go without this. Best AHA/BHA toner. Non-drying, great tingle. (2) SKII - Facial Treatment Essence Watery texture - I use this as my everything-toner with the earthling co - Reusable Bamboo Cotton Rounds; usually when I get out of the shower and want to be absolutely sure there's no trace of conditioner or body oil on my face. (3) swissline - Resurfacing Water - 10% Glycolic Acid PM product; this stuff really is the bomb but I just haven't been in the mood to use it. I have other products that do the same thing.

Serums/Treatments

(2) Biologique Recherche - Collagène Originel A very nice hydrating serum. It smells like blueberries, which I believe is unintentional (BR does not add fragrance to their products), which is a bonus. (2) The Klog - Hydra Shield Anti-Pollution Jelly Toner Marketed as a "toner," but it definitely has more of a gel/serum texture. There is a small fraction of a percentage of synthetic salicylic acid in this. I realized this recently and don't know how I feel about it. Literally - sometimes I think that's good and other times I don't get why they snuck that in. It is not noticeable, really. I use this overtop the BR serum when I feel like I need *even more* hydration. (2) Neutrogena - 20% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Capsules This is a product that's making me question my skincare tenets. I bought these capsules because Bethenny Frankel went ape-sh*t over them in an Instagram reel. They are packed with dimethicone, which I typically hate. I'm really not even hype on vitamin C in general, but I just like these a lot. Nice tingle, and lightened some dark spots. I will take the risk of the skin-suffocating silicone ingredient since it appears to suffocate vitamin C into certain areas where I need it. (3) Rx Retin-A - Tretinoin 0.025 - No URL here. You need a prescription from a dermatologist for this. I haven't been using this lately. Can be drying, and just haven't been in the mood. (3) Ursa Major - Natural Vitamin C Face Serum This is a beautifully hydrating vitamin C serum, which does not have silicones in it, and for some reason I seldom feel like using it. I do love it though. It's there.

Moisturizers/Finishers

(1) OSEA - Atmosphere Protection Cream I decided I am not using moisturizers that come in pots anymore. How can that be hygienic, to dip your fingers or a little spatula in there every time you need to use it? The answer is - it's not. Anyway, I like this OSEA cream. I bought it because I buy a lot of things that Michelle Villett tells me to. (2) Solved Skincare - 100% Organic Golden Jojoba Oil PM product; when I need more moisture at night (i.e. after using the rose acid mask), I layer this over my moisturizer. Jojoba oil is non-comedogenic. (1) Kinship - Self Reflect SPF 32 Probiotic Moisturizing Sunscreen AM product; as long as they keep making this, I will keep buying it. Best facial sunscreen I have ever used. I have a big size for home in vanilla, and a travel size in rose. Mineral, light-weight, reef-safe, no-white-cast, clean, vegan, cruelty-free, sustainably packaged, dermatologist tested. Check, check, check, check, check, check, check, check. Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.

Other

(2) MitoMIN - 60 LED Red Light Therapy Device I use this about 5x per week; usually 10 minutes in the morning while I read The Daily Stoic (thanks, @Lauren Robertson) and finish my coffee before the crazy starts. I do this after cleansing and applying eye cream and serum, but before moisturizing and applying SPF. (3) Since I'm honest, and you should be too, I went in for two Botox treatments this year. Forehead and brow-area only.

Okie dokie smokey, there it is. I'll be back when I'm back. THOUGHTS? QUESTIONS? CONCERNS? WHAT DO YOU USE? HIT ME ON MY GRAM: @madhautblog

love u mean it

~maddie O~

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madhaut · 2 years

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Back on my summer bullsh*

Austin, TX has three beautiful seasons, and summer is not one of them.

It's hot as ballsacs out there. I cannot be layering multiple serums and thick creams only for them to pill and melt off under my zinc-heavy sunscreen. I basically splash my face with various waters each morning and then cover up with SPF. Peep the haut girl summer routine below.

Morning

Ursa Major - Making Moves Milky Cleanser Gentle morning milk cleanser, the usual

Facial Ice Bath - 3 Min. -or- ZIIP treatment Either increases circulation and provides some tingle to kick-start the day

Sometimes - Biologique Recherche - Lotion P50 1970 Only if some spots need attention

SKII - Pitera Facial Treatment Essence Nice and light; watery texture; hydrating, softening, brightening

Klairs - Fundamental Nourishing Eye Butter Contrary to the name, this is a much lighter eye cream which still provides that extra care to the sensitive eye area

Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Cream I will have this in my cabinet as long as they keep making it

CyberDerm - Simply Zinc Lite Untinted SPF 50 I'm not effing around with 30 or 40 SPF during the summer months down here; I step up the mineral zinc coverage to SPF 50 with this surprisingly light formulation

Evening

Shiseido - Perfect Cleansing Oil We've talked about oil-cleansing at night to remove sunscreen and makeup; this gets the job done, but The Face Shop Rice Water does the same thing at a fraction of the price

Murad - Essential-C Cleanser I accept that vitamin C serum just doesn't really agree with my skin, but I still like to sneak vitamin C into my routine somewhere; this cleanser is citrusy and summery and has the same gel texture as my beloved Cetaphil

Klairs - Fundamental Nourishing Eye Butter Discussed ^

Rx Tretinoin 0.025 -or- Swissline - Glycolic Acid Resurfacing Water I have been using the tretinoin a lot more lately but when the wind blows a certain way, I switch it up to the glycolic acid treatment; no rhyme or reason really; both amazing treatments

Ursa Major - Golden Hour Recovery Cream Okay, this is just lovely... super nourishing for night time but still fast absorbing; smells nice and woodsy and has the perfect blend of facial oils to seal in the good stuff - will repurchase and very likely use this in my day routine during the colder months

TLDR: apply sunscreen.

Stay cool, hauties

~ maddles ~

#summer skin care #layerresponsibly

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madhaut · 2 years

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Swissline

Happy 2022! A LOT has changed in my life. I left my job. I got married. And I changed up my skincare routine; partially, to re-calibrate for colder temperatures, and partially, because I accidentally (?) stumbled across a luxury skincare line which really strokes my ego. Since learning I am mostly Swiss (but also German, as was known) from my 23&me report, I am really into Switzerland stuff. When one of my favorite aestheticians, Joanna Kula (@skincaredevotee) started raving about this glycolic acid resurfacing water from the brand Swissline, it really piqued my interest. I had a flashback to the Upper East Side in Manhattan when my dermatologist first prescribed tretinoin. She mentioned I should look into gentle glycolic acid treatment to complement the retin-a regimen. Retin-a regenerates but does not exfoliate. Glycolic acid exfoliates. My P50 toner, which I do still love, does exfoliate, but is mostly lactic acid. So, I decided to try out some of the Swissline line and other products Joanna has been raving about. Warning: they are not cheap. I made these purchases before my last day at Sprinklr and won't re-purchase until I find a new gig.

The Evening Routine

Elemis - Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm Oil cleanser, to remove makeup and sunscreen.

Cetaphil - Daily Facial Cleanser Water cleanser to follow; tried and true.

Swissline - Resurfacing Water 10% Glycolic Acid This is the new holy grail I have been using in place of my Rx Tretinoin 0.025; I will go back to the tretinoin as my skin and the weather dictates. This glycolic acid treatment contains madecassoside, and I wake up with glowing, glassy skin every morning. I immediately purchased another bottle.

NIOD - Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate For my hooded upper eyelids; have been raving about this product for some time.

Kiehl's - Avocado Eye Cream For my under eyes; simply still the best.

Swissline - Smart Cream This was an impulse purchase after I tried out the sample included with my first resurfacing water purchase. No silicones, and I love the rich texture. It truly feels like a luxury product.

Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Cream I still love this cream. I mix it in with the Smart Cream. Squalane and ceramides for the win.

Then I Met You - Calming Tide Gel Cream I had this laying around and decided to mix this in with the other two creams to make the concoction a little more spreadable and hydrating.

The Morning Routine

I use my expensive, high-end stuff on days I know I will get a full day's wear out of it. For me, this is every other day. I committed to an every-other-day Peloton ride and haven't missed a beat since the bike arrived in December.

Exquisite - Soothing Cleansing Gel This is another recommendation from Joanna Kula. Ever since I used Biologique Recherche's Lait U or Lait VIP O2 cleansing milks, I have been all-about the gentle milky morning cleansing routine. It is effective without being too drying. I will be switching this up every-other-day with a similar product, Ursa Major - Making Moves Milky Cleanser. Both products are applied to dry face, massaged for 30-60 seconds, then rinsed off with warm water and a wet washcloth.

One Thing - Niacinamide I use this as a toner but apply it with my hands. I love niacinamide and bought this because of the beautiful packaging and promise of a simplified ingredient list. Niacinamide brightens the complexion and promotes collagen production. This formulation layers well with subsequent steps.

Swissline - Essential Serum This is another impulse purchase after having tried out a sample. I love the texture and smell, and the sample hydrated my skin and promoted a gentle tightening effect. Another very luxurious product that I cannot afford to re-purchase right now, but I've been enjoying it thoroughly. On workout days, I use Vichy - Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum for this step instead.

Same eye treatments; regardless of time of day or day of week. NIOD - Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Kiehl's - Avocado Eye Cream

Same moisturizing trio. They are all combined into the same jar now, so it's a no-brainer. Swissline - Smart Cream Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Cream Then I Met You - Calming Tide Gel Cream

Supergoop! - Daily Dose Hydra-Ceramide Boost + SPF 40 Oil Since I am not using tretinoin at night, I incorporated a non-mineral SPF into my routine. I love this ceramide/oil format because it boosts hydration and locks in moisture during these colder months. I add 5-6 drops into the moisturizer cocktail and smear it on.

On days I don't feel like using the oil format SPF, I have been using Supergoop! - Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40. Definitely check out this product. It is clear, has a beautiful gel/ointment texture, but glides on smooth and matte. If I did use tretinoin the night before, Supergoop! - Mineral Sheerscreen SPF 30 is still my holy grail. You can probably tell by now that I am big into Supergoop! I also purchased a mini-size of their (Re)setting Refreshing Mist for my upcoming trip to Costa Rica. Very important to re-apply SPF throughout the day when exposed to sun all day long, and mists are one of the best ways to do that.

The Shower Routine

Before getting in the shower after a Pelly ride, I slather my face with a cheaper cleansing oil called THE FACE SHOP - Rice Water Bright Rich Cleansing Light Oil which you can get on Amazon. It has a very light texture and gets the job done. In the shower, after rinsing out hair conditioner, I use the Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser. After getting out, I swipe a cotton round doused with Son & Park - Beauty Water, to be absolutely certain I do not have any shower suds on my face, where they just do not belong.

There you have it. New year, new #swissline fan, new me.

Later hauties,

-Maddie O.

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madhaut · 2 years

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Best of 2021

All of these products are amazing and are 10/10 recommended by me. Difficult though it was, I selected winners from each category. Happy New Year, hauties! -MB

CLEANSERS

Oil Cleansers

Then I Met You - Living Cleansing Balm

Dermalogica - Precleanse Oil

NIOD - Low-Viscosity Cleaning Ester

Winner: Then I Met You - Living Cleansing Balm ($38)

Cream Cleansers

Biologique Recherche - Lait VIP O2

The Ordinary - Squalane Cleanser

Winner: Biologique Recherche - Lait VIP O2 ($69)

Water Cleansers

Cetaphil - Daily Facial Cleanser

Dermalogica - Daily Microfoliant

Neogen - Real Fresh Green Tea Cleansing Stick

Winner: Cetaphil - Daily Facial Cleanser ($11)

TONERS

Son & Park - Beauty Water

Winner: Son & Park - Beauty Water ($30)

EYE TREATMENTS

Kiehl's - Avocado Eye Cream

NIOD - Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate

Biologique Recherche - Creme Contour Des Yeux VIP O2

Winner: NIOD - Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate ($68)

MASKS

Sheet Masks

SK-II - Facial Treatment Mask

Tatcha - Luminous Dewy Skin Sheet Mask

Winner: SK-II - Facial Treatment Masks ($139 for 10)

Wash-Off Masks

Biologique Recherche - Masque Vivant

Dr. Barbara Sturm - Clarifying Mask

Winner: Biologique Recherche - Masque Vivant ($73)

MISTS

Biologique Recherche - L'eauxgenate Mist

Acwell - Licorice pH Balancing Mist

La Roche-Posay - Thermal Spring Water

Winner: Acwell - Licorice pH Balancing Mist ($24)

CLEARING TREATMENTS

Tretinoin - Rx Retin-A 0.025

Biologique Recherche - Lotion P50 1970

Winner: Tretinoin - Rx Retin-A 0.025 ($10, plus visit to licensed dermatologist)

HYDRATING SERUMS

NIOD - Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Complex

Hylamide - Booster Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid

Hanskin - Hyaluron Skin Essence

The Ordinary - Buffet with Copper Peptides

The Inkey List - Niacinamide Oil Control Serum

Winner: Hanskin - Hyaluron Skin Essence ($25)

MOISTURIZERS

Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Cream

The Ordinary - Natural Moisturizing Factors

Benton - Aloe Propolis Soothing Gel

Solved Skincare - 100% Organic Golden Jojoba Oil

Winner: Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Cream ($32)

SUNSCREENS

Supergoop! - Mineral Sheerscreen SPF 30

Supergoop! - Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40

The Sunscreen Company - Simply Zinc Lite SPF 50

Winner: Supergoop! - Mineral Sheerscreen SPF 30 ($38)

#skincare #layerresponsibly

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madhaut · 3 years

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Best kept secrets

Silicone skin cleansing brush $8 After oil cleansing and during the water cleanse step, utilize a silicone face scrubber 2-3x per week.

It gently boosts exfoliation to create a deeper cleanse. I love using this tool with the Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser, to which I have remained loyal since May. The slippery texture of the cleanser paired with the flexible silicone bristles enables facial massage to stimulate blood flow and provides that extra assurance that your skin is squeaky clean after rinsing.

Plus, it’s $8, and very easy to clean. I have had the same one for years. It far outweights the alternatives:

> Foreo: Why is this $199? Just use a little elbow grease and pay 4% of this cost. > PMD Facial Cleansing Wands: Again, why are these $99 to $179? Unnecessary. > Massage brushes I.e. Shiseido/Clinique: Explain to me why I would buy these expensive tools which need to be replaced when the base of the bristles collects build up over time. Reminds me of nasty dish wands. > Cleansing mitts, sponges, or puffs: These also need to be replaced. I can’t help but think these have build up after just once use. Personally, I don’t want to wash my face with something dirty....

NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate $68 I know, I know - hitting you with a pricey product here. Hear me out.

I have hooded eyelids, AKA, I am constantly concerned that my upper eyelid is simply going to swallow my entire eye one day. Sagging upper eyelid skin is a major concern.

This eye serum has been a staple in my cabinet for years. 15ml lasts about 6 months - a little goes a long way. There is a testimonial within the online reviews from one woman who canceled her upper eyelid surgery after using this product. My best friend recently visited and reported an instant “tightening” sensation.

I use it on my upper eyelids day and night, and reserve the Kiehl’s Creamy Avocado Eye Treatment for my under eyes. It nourishes my upper eyelids and keeps them bouncy.

#enjoy , #layerresponsibly , and remember to switch to your winter regimine, hauties. It’s getting chilly out there. I am switching up my moisturizer from Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream to The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors and applying a finishing oil (jojoba) a couple nights a week.

Ta, ta!

~Maddles~

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madhaut · 3 years

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miscellaneous tips

Oil-cleanse your under arms before showering. Underarm treatments are known to really attach. Since oil cleansers remove makeup, imagine they can do wonders for any potential product build up, anywhere really.

Wash your face last in shower. Unless you want a film of conditioner (hair oils) on your face underneath your other skincare products!

Face mist after shower. After showering, before applying your facial skincare, spritz your face with a gentle facial mist like La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water. It buys you time to dry off and apply body lotion, so that the skin on your face does not become completely dried out after what was probably a hot shower.

Face towel <> Body towel <> Hand towel. That is all. If you apply body lotion before facial skincare, wash your hands after applying body lotion.

Sunscreen powder. Have you noticed that most sunscreen instructions say to re-apply every so often throughout the day? Is anyone really doing that? Over makeup? I find this impossible, unless you go with a translucent powder with SPF, such as Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35 or ILIA Radiant Translucent Powder SPF 20, which has the double-benefit of acting as a daytime shine-combatant.

Silk face masks. Things are mostly open, but not totally open. Grab a few silk facemasks from Amazon - the masks from the Mulberry brand are just fine. Silk is antimicrobial = no "maskne."

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madhaut · 3 years

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I had a skin incident in May.

This happens every 2 or 3 years, typically during intense periods of stress, especially when I am using too many products with active ingredients. This time, it was allergic dermatitis, and one more visit to my dermatologist convinced me to get back to the basics. My views on skincare have changed, possibly for good. This might turn into the most boring skincare blog on the planet, but I don't care. I will always share my number one routines with my followers. Truth, or bust. So, here's my updated routine. BTW, my skin looks and feels amazing now.

My Exact Routine:

Dermalogica Precleanse Oil ($45) . . . Take every opportunity you can to give yourself a facial massage, for which you need something slippery, so you're not tugging on your skin. This stimulates the muscles in your face. The oil cleanse step ensures that your skin is super clean before you slather anything else on top.

Alternate product recommendations: Then I Met You Cleansing Balm ($38), The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Rich Cleansing Light Oil ($11)

Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser ($11) . . . Tried and true, recommended by every dermatologist I have ever met, and universally accepted by all skin types. Yes, you should double-cleanse: oil cleanse first, followed by your water-based cleanser.

Alternate product recommendations: Neogen Green Tea Real Fresh Cleansing Stick ($22) - amazing for travel.

Kiehl's Creamy Avocado Eye Treatment ($38) . . . You can use whatever eye cream you want. Just use an eye cream. I love this Kiehl's eye treatment because it is so rich and thick that it forces you to pat-pat-pat it on, instead of spreading. You should not be spreading/tugging on your sensitive eye-area skin. Pat-pat-pat and thank me later.

Alternate product recommendations: None. Kiehl's is the goat. Your eyes will look a little “shiny” at first because of the formula but it sinks right in.

AM Hanskin Hyaluron Skin Essence ($25) . . . For the daytime, use a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid serum. It's gentle, and it keeps your skin hydrated and bouncy to balance out any dryness or irritation from your night-time prescription retinoid.

Alternate product recommendations: Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel ($83), Hylamide Low-Molecular HA ($14)

PM Rx Tretinoin Cream 0.025 ($10) . . . Prescription required; easy to get; just ask your dermatologist. This is non-negotiable, though. Retin-A makes the entire routine. Just Google "tretinoin" and click on the first healthline article you come across to learn more about this tried-and-true miracle medication.

Alternate product recommendation: Adapelene (Differin) gel ($27) if you must, but the prescription tretinoin is so much better.

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream ($24) . . . To me, using a nice moisturizing cream devoid of silicone is absolutely key to making this routine work. If you are unsure whether the face cream you are about to buy has silicone in it, look up the ingredients and CTRL-F "cone" and if you see any ingredients on the list i.e. dimethicone, do not buy that product. Silicones sit on top of your skin and suffocate it. Silicones in facial moisturizers tend to create a fluffy, airy, satisfying texture, but they are known to be comedogenic (pimple-causing, if you will) - not worth it! The other important factor in your moisturizer for this routine is that you really need a moisturizing lotion - not a hydrating lotion - meaning the product needs to have some weight to it. No water-gel-creams. Your skin will tend to be dry from the nightly tretinoin, especially at first.

Alternate product recommendations: The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors ($6)

AM Supergoop! Mineral Sheer Screen SPF 30 ($38) . . . Another non-negotiable step. Daily application is absolutely essential. I'm not going to go into sunscreen too much -- just know, in the end, sunscreen is your #1 anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-dark spot BFF. IMPORTANT: If you're on the tret, you need to use a mineral sunscreen, not a chemical sunscreen, which will burn your face! Mineral sunscreens are known to be fussy and leave a white cast, but that's the only downside. They also tend to be reef safe; big PLUS for me. This formula from Supergoop! is SUPER light and airy, no silicones, SPF 30, mineral, easy to spread, leaves no white cast, and sinks right in.

Alternate product recommendations: Badger Natural Mineral Sunscreen Cream ($18) - I like the lavender formula. This is my winter sunscreen when my face is drier, because this formula contains sea buckthorn, Vitamin E, and sunflower oil. If you trend oily, get the Supergoop! sheer screen.

Summary

Double-cleanse Eye cream AM - Hyaluronic acid PM - Rx tretinoin cream Rich, no-silicone moisturizer AM - Mineral sunscreen

There you have it! I’ll be back sometime this summer.... Stay cool, hauties.

#skincare

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madhaut · 3 years

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March Metallics

Just a quick one today! Sharing four products in my current rotation which share the motif of METAL.

ZIIP - Silver Gel We talked about my beloved ZIIP nanocurrent facial device; I am here now to recommend one of its complimentary conductive gels. The silver gel is silicone-free, oil-free, paraben-free, phthalate-free and fragrance-free. I use this nearly every morning for brightening and hydration. Ingredient highlights: glycerin, aloe, finely crushed pearl. 8/10 recommend.

iS CLINICAL - Copper Firming Mist Y'all, I really have a hard time resisting products which contain the word "firming" in the title. I'm BIG into hydrating mists and have used copper skincare with varied success in the past. iS CLINICAL's mist contains botanical antioxidants, resveratrol, and copper PCA. 8/10 recommend.

Wander Beauty - Baggage Claim Eye Masks in Rose Gold HANDS-DOWN: these are the best eye patches I have ever used. I'm on my third pack. I will never again struggle with slippery hydrogel eye patches, which slide right down your face. Wander's eye masks have a gold "foil" fabric texture, so they apply easily and stay put nicely, as I often wear them around the house in the morning or before a night out. These babies can (and will again) be purchased on Amazon in packs of six. Ingredient highlights: gold foil fabric; aloe, calendula, camu camu extract, peptides, and amino acids. 10/10 recommend. ZPM - 24K Gold Vitamin C E Serum This was a $14 impulse purchase from Amazon. I was seeking an interim vitamin C serum that would hydrate and would not irritate my skin. The marketing is suuuper gimmicky, but the ingredient list checks out. Gold foil, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, rosehip oil, aloe, glycerin, collagen, matrixyl - all good stuff. I could do without the tacky fragrance, but otherwise, I like this serum. Candidly, I'll probably ditch it once my iS CLINICAL Super Serum+ arrives, but this is a solid choice and won't break the bank. 7/10 recommend. Summer is coming! Wear SPF on your face every damn day, and I'll catch you soon, hautie crew. Layer responsibly! XO -Mads

#copperpca #goldfoil #ziip #rosegold #skincare

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madhaut · 3 years

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FebruMoney 2021

I set a goal to do one skincare post per month in 2021. February was really short and I lost a full week of productivity due to the Austin freeze, so we're going to pretend this is my February post. Shhh. :) It's fine. (For my fans: my January post was Instagram-only. Ha. My fans. My so very many fans. Yup. Those ones.)

EXPEN$IVE SKINCARE PRODUCTS I TRIED & UNFORTUNATELY LIKED

$575 ZIIP GX Nanocurrent Facial Device w/ Golden Gel & Crystal Gel I began to notice that the ZIIP device was featured in several of my favorite aesthetician's Instagram posts. (See Joanna Kula of Biologique Recherche, @skincaredevotee). As soon as she DM'd me her discount code, I convinced myself that I could spend nearly $600 and save money as long as I never need another facial again, which may very well be the case if I keep up the daily AM/PM electricity habit I quickly formed. It is super gratifying to pair facial massage with various electrical current treatments, ranging from spot-treatements to lifting and sculpting facials, which involuntarily move your facial muscles at times! My face muscles get a workout day and night. It feels like it works, and it actually does what many product claim to do - treats beneath the surface. ZIIP-lifer over here!

$166 SkinCeuticals Vitamin C E Ferulic w/ 15% L-ascorbic Acid This isn’t new. People have raved about this product for years, and I held out as long as possible. I reluctantly endorse this vitamin C serum. Vitamin C is finicky, man. The unstable, spoil-prone versions are the most effective, and this is one of them. This cleared a few scar marks and packs a big antioxidant punch. Non-sticky, non-greasy, absorbs easily. I am more of a niacinamide girl than a vitamin C girl, but I just love this. Ugh. Goodbye money.

$44 iS CLINICAL Cleansing Complex When I was living in New York City, my best friend would not stray from this basic-ass "blue gel" cleanser. The price of the product and her devotion to it baffled me. At the time, I did not have an understanding of the benefits of low-pH, gentle cleansers. Cleansers don't need to be harsh to be effective. If you're using other active ingredients throughout your routine, gentle cleansers will not strip or over-exfoliate your skin. My skin is bouncier and does not feel tight after cleansing. There is something really aesthetically pleasing about that blue bottle, too.

I’ll be back in a couple days to do my March post... at the 11th hour of March, of course.

Cheers hauties!

~Layer responsibly~

-Maddles

#skincare #vitaminc #ziip #isclinical

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madhaut · 5 years

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Everything I have ever tried from The Ordinary / Deciem: A review. Part 3

I never did finish my review of all-things Deciem that I started earlier this year. Let’s tie a bow on that. To keep it simple, I am going to quickly run through each of the remaining categories from The Ordinary, with additional categories for other Deciem brands. Each product will be classified as follows:

LOVE....... Great, would purchase again LIKE......... It was good, but not good enough to buy again OKAY....... Just not for me DISLIKE... Not recommended

The Ordinary-Direct Acids

LIKE......... Alpha Lipoic Acid 5% DISLIKE... Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution DISLIKE... Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% DISLIKE... Lactic Acid 10% + HA LIKE......... AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

The Ordinary-Hydrators

LOVE....... 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil LIKE......... 100% Organic Virgin Chia Seed Oil OKAY....... 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil LOVE....... “B” Oil DISLIKE... Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 LIKE......... Marine Hyaluronics LIKE......... Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

The Ordinary-Other

LIKE......... EUK 134 0.1% LOVE....... Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% DISLIKE... Matrixl 10% + HA DISLIKE... Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA OKAY....... Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG LIKE......... Argirelene Solution 10% OKAY....... Serum Foundation (in 1.2P) Note: I put EUK in this category instead of under “Antioxidants” as it is listed on the website. This is because EUK would be the only antioxidant I have tried since many of The Ordinary’s antioxidants also fall into other categories I have covered.

Hylamide

LIKE......... Subq Anti-Age LOVE....... High Efficiency Face Cleaner LIKE......... Hydra-Density Mist LOVE....... Low-Molecular HA

NIOD

LIKE......... Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1 OKAY....... Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex LOVE....... Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate LIKE......... Mastic Must LOVE....... Stainless Steel Spoon

Abnomaly

OKAY....... Petrowhat? Milk (Coconut flavor)

BEST OF 2018 Accounts for previously-reviewed Retinoids & Vitamin Cs

Top 5: Niacinamide Zinc, Rose Hip Seed Oil, Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate, Low-Molecular HA, Stainless Steel Spoon Holy Grail: Niacinamide Rising Star: Retinol 1% in Squalane Never Again: Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Bucket List: Pycnogenol 5%, 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane, Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist, Survival 0, Sanskrit Saponins

I got the “best of” idea from Miyanda Nehwati in a closed Facebook chatroom dedicated to Deciem/The Ordinary.

#deciem

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madhaut · 6 years

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Five Tips For Balanced Travel Skin

Hey! I am traveling every weekend this month and was nudged by my bestie lovie Lauren to do a post on travel care.

5 TIPS

1. SPEND $10 OR SO ON A SET OF 20-30 mL PLASTIC BOTTLES.

It only takes one time for TSA to steal an expensive, full-sized product from your carry-on to make many multiples on this investment. I like a 24-set by the ASTRQLE retailer on Amazon - these are dropper bottles with two-piece caps to prevent leakage.

Small bottles also mean: --> less weight in your luggage, and; --> no guilt if you lose one or forget what’s in it and decide to start a new dropper next trip

Speaking of this, label your plastic bottles with permanent marker or go extra and buy a label-maker (Hendo <3).

Only other thing I can think of here is it would be nice to have a mini funnel. That’s it, enough is enough, adding one to my Amazon cart....

2. SKINCARE OIL.

Dedicate one of your $0.24 mini plastic bottles to 5-10 drops your favorite face care oil. This ensures you always have something on hand to add to any moisturizers that may be running low - to make them more spreadable.

The traditional lotion/cream texture of moisturizers makes them the most tricky to finagle into a plastic travel dropper, so I usually rely on samples (see next) for this step. If I haven’t acquired new samples in a while, I’m usually low on my travel moisturizer.

My favorite face oil is cold pressed organic rose hip seed oil, followed by organic virgin chia seed oil. Virgin marula oil is also a popular choice.

If you’re new to face oils, a safe way to not over-do it is to drop one drop into your [clean] palm and spread it around with your pointer finger. Then, swipe a small bit on your outer/upper cheeks directly south of the outer corners of your eyes and down the ridge of your nose. Any remaining can be gently massaged into existing/developing forehead creases.

Let it sink in. If you’re concerned about day-time sheen, dust your face with translucent powder.

3. SAMPLES.

They’re tempting to try, but save your Sephora or Biologique Recherche samples (including perfumes) for trips. Probably an obvious one, but I’ll caveat it with one risk: you might want to find a way to test the product or look up the ingredients before you take off. If it doesn’t agree with your skin, you’re stuck with a blah skin event and a trip to CVS while in transit.

4. CLEANSING STICK.

Leave your liquid/full-sized cleanser at home. As you know, solids are safe in your carry on. I’m obsessed with the Neogen Green Tea Cleansing Stick - it’s actually my go-to/default cleanser, and I keep one at home and for travel at all times. I’ve talked about this one before, but it smells delicious (and natural), it leaves you clean but not overly dry/tight, and it lasts.

5. SHEET MASKS.

Do your intense/pore-cleansing/acid/active masks directly before and after your trip, and bring a few sheet masks instead. They travel easy and your skin always craves hydration during and after flights.

I have no shame and often use a sheet mask right there on the plane. If you do this, make sure your skin is clean first. No need to seal in dirt or toxins - gross.

SMOOTH TRAVELS, hauties.

~Maddles~

#skincare koreanskincare traveltips travelskincare neogen sheetmasks faceoil

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madhaut · 6 years

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Completely Off Topic- Germany Trip 2017

Stop reading now if you're looking for a skincare post. I might mention it in passing, but this is going to be about my March 2017 trip to Germany with my good friend Jenn Gerhard.

Throughout any trip I take, I often make notes in my phone on what I did each day; so, at the very least, I have a record of the highlights. I try to write about trips as soon as I return from them, so the memories are fresh. This time, I decided to let myself take a total mental haitus, to see what it would be like to write about the trip much later. That, or I was too busy, lazy or distracted to get the copy down. Either way, here's what I remember, 18 months later.

Thursday. Our day started in the evening at BWI, from whence we flew, through Iceland, on WOW AIR, to Frankfurt. Our crew all had nordic/slavic sounding names and spoke fluent Icelandic. It was so early that there was that unspoken agreemeent among passengers that we were going to get into our seats and go back to sleep as quickly as possible. The lead steward called himself Mr. Viking. We giggled, but hunkered down to catch what we knew would be much-needed sleep for the long day ahead.

Friday. We landed in Keflavik, where Mr. Viking thanked the passengers for the super fun "party flight," through which nearly all of us slept. The airport in Keflavik had a sleek design, with floor-to-ceiling windows. It felt new, friendly, and cold. No other notable memories from Keflavik airport before taking off for Germany. I have to assume I was sleep walking.

We landed in Frankfurt, and our plan was to get on a 5-hour train to Berlin, where we'd stay for the first leg of the trip. We hadn't planned out the middle leg, but knew we'd be making our way down to Munich, and then back to Frankfurt. We had pre-ordered and received rail cards to use throughout our time in Germany. We had to get the cards notarized at the DB station (akin to Amtrak) at the Frankfurt airport, and when we went to do so, met a very irritated teller, who informed us that we filled out the rail cards incorrectly.

I haven't mentioned this yet but Jenn and I have a very light-hearted and hilarious friendship. We met at work but got closer from the company's team soccer outings where we quickly learned that we are both total goofballs, with similar humor, and similar roots in Germany. It was her first trip there, but I had been to Germany in 2013 with my then-boyfriend.

Anyway. Back to the teller. Jenn and I were snickering, because he was so straight-up irritated that we filled out these damn cards incorrectly. Such a classic first German person interaction. Lighten up buddy, haha. It's going to be fine. I didn't say that, but we filled out new cards correctly, got some Euros and headed to the Bahnhof (train station).

We did sheet masks on the train, pulled into Berlin Hauptbahnhof, and caught a taxi to our Air BNB loft at Bergstr. 22, in the Josty Brauerei complex.

I had reached out to an old contact I knew through DC friends, Josh, who invited Jenn and I to dinner at Panama, at which he works as sommelier. We Ubered through Mitte, to the outskirts of Kreuzberg and Schoeneberg, where the ultra-chic restaurant is situated. We sat at a two-top on the second floor, in the restaurant’s main dining room, and allowed the very-talented Josh and his very-talented friends to curate, for us, a meal with wine pairings. We tried a large swath of the menu and everything was absolutely excellent.

We ended the meal with a nightcap at their bar on the first floor, where my friend Nick and the bartender crafted elaborate cocktails with edible flowers on top. Jenn was scolded for not finishing the carnation which crowned her concoction. All in jest. :)

From there we headed, at Nick’s behest, to a bar called Reingold. I’m sure it’s good but for whatever reason we just could not get served so we split and wandered into the next place that struck our fancy - there was just a sign out front that said “BAR” and we thought that was direct and funny. We met sort of a creepy older guy with a checkered past as an Ostberliner, who ended up being nice and directing us on the S-Bahn. On the bus, we met a weiner dog named Alma. Owner’s name/face, no idea.

As I recall we had two martinis each at one more bar - running on fumes and sheer adreneline and excitement - before calling it a night in our airy, spacious, cozy loft. It was hard to believe we started the day in Iceland. It was St. Patrick’s Day.

Saturday. Breakfast was a no brainer. Distrikt Coffee was across the street from our loft at Bergstrasse, so we ended up eating there quite often, because honestly, it was so on point. We wanted to try everything - acai bowls, avocado toast, omelettes, crepes, benedicts, cappucinos, lattes and iced drinks. Everything phenomenal.

From there it was straight to Sophienstasse to shop. This was a long day of walking if I recall. There were so many temptations in the Sophienstrasse shopping district that we decided to go walking/sight-seeing before getting bogged down with bags. Smart.

We headed to Alex (Alexanderplatz-complex/area in the city center) and picked up postcards to send home, and to ourselves. Being a Saturday, the line for the Fernsehturm (TV tower) was insane, so we noped that and just took pictures near Neptune and then near the Berliner Dom (absolutely equisite; one of my favorite buildings in Berlin).

We stopped into one of the cafes on Museuminsel, and then walked the iconic Unter den Linden throughway to the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate - another personal favorite, obviously). We admired this for a while. On a personal note, the gate not only bears my family name, but there’s a famous photo from the date the wall fell, where a German boy, who had been a foreign exchange student in Cleveland, Ohio, was wearing his Solon High School letter jacket. I have the same jacket! :)

Anyway, it was cold and windy and we had walked miles, so we were a little wiped out but determined to shop. We caught an enclosed bike taxi back to Sophienstrasse; our guide was a cheery, late-40s (guessing) West-Berliner.

From there we stopped into many boutiques at Hackesche Hoefe, then needed more caffeine/sustenance, and got it at a cute little place called Rosegarten, tucked into a polished and residential-looking, indoor/outdoor shopping complex - with tons of character. THEN we bought a lot of things....

At some point we took our bags back to the loft to regroup and decide about dinner, which ended up being weinerschitznels and beers at Dolden Maedel in Kreuzberg. This was fairly well-situated on our route to Hoppetosse, a chill, techno disco in a large docked boat on the west-side enbankment of the river Spree, which flows through Berlin. We passed the time with my friend Nick and a French bachelor party guy group, whom we could scarely understand, but we all found this amusing.

Around 1 AM, we headed to Ritter Butzke, where I had planned to say hi to my friend, DJ Till von Sein, who was headlining the gig that night. He made sure Jenn and I were on the list in advance, and we arrived before he went on. I stopped by the booth to say hello, and to my surprise, once he recognized me (ha), he invited Jenn and I into the booth to store our coats and bags, and have somewhere to sit down and hang out. He also gave us his drink tickets (he doesn’t drink alcohol), which we did spend on ourselves, but also spent on waters we brought him throughout the night. Anyway, I shouldn’t have been surprised. On the few occasions where I’ve spent time with Till, he was always a class act and such a nice and gracious person. We danced until 3 AM, and cabbed back to the loft to crash. I had so much energy from the good time we had at Ritter that I listened to music and planned out the next day on my phone, lounging in our loft’s enormous bathroom tub, with blankets. Contented.

Sunday. Pretty sure we got off to a slow and LATE start, ha ha, I don’t have a ton of notes from this date. Distrikt Coffee for some late-lunch amazingness; planned and made reservations for the middle leg of our trip; picked up a few groceries; and then headed down to dinner at Katz Orange, a sister restaurant to Panama, conveniently situated in the same Josty Brauerei building courtyard as our loft. So we literally just went downstairs to another A+ stellar meal at 9 PM. Bed early for the next day’s activities. Sadly, we had to check out of Bergstrasse the next day.

Monday. We had a funny little incident Monday morning, which I hesitate to even bring up, but I think you’ll understand I mean nothing bad by it. I was hell-bent on finding somewhere from whence to ship some laundry home, to make more space in my bag and unload the unecessary. We walked around for a while trying to find a pack station, only to realize it was a kiosk situation inside a grocery store, and there was just no way it was going to get figured out. On the way there, we passed the beautiful Zionskirche (Zion Church). I just was not thinking at the time and the name of the church didn’t generate any connection in my brain to Judaism. Anyway, we were taking a lot of pictures and found some graffiti that said “JENS,” we thought. It wasn’t until after I took several shots of Jenn posing goofily with the tag that we realized it actually said “JEWS,” and further, that we should probably just walk away, very quickly, very very quickly. We were cracking up but I hoped we hadn’t seemed ignorant to any passers-by. Definitely was not the intention, and it is hard to tell what felt “wrong” about the scenario. I am forever sensitive to the history and past of Berlin. For many it is still very, and painfully, fresh.

We checked out of the loft at Bergstrasse in Mitte around 11 AM, and cabbed to a quirky bakery/breakfast shop called Wahrhaft Nahrhaft in Friedrichshain, East Berlin. We had time to kill until 3 PM, erm, 15:00 checkin, so we ate there and then again at Tempo-Box before rolling, luggage and all, to Gubener Strasse. We were literally around the corner from Berghain, the famous Berlin techno club, known worldwide for its marathon, multi-day, nonstop parties, and strict and particular door policy.

At Gubener Strasse we met Tom, to check into our Air BNB for the next 36 hours or so. Tom let us in, gave us a quick tour, handed us the keys to his flat, took us around the surrounding area, and promptly broke both of our hearts when he said he stays with his girlfriend nearby when he has Air BNB guests. Man oh man, is Tom a babe. He has piercing blue eyes, and I found out later he actually is a model. Despite the girlfriend, I was nonetheless always excited to get his messages on WhatsApp. Unfortunately, he was usually contacting me to admonish us for the noise at night time - his neighbors complained about us. Even normal phone conversations are easily heard through the thin walls in the old building.

Anyway, once we said goodbye to Tom that day, it was back to Sophienstrasse for more shopping - this time for art and other trinkets, instead of clothing - and then to Sophieneck for classic brats and pilsners. For dinner, we had fondue at Feuer & Flamme, across the street from Tom’s flat; and then finished up with bottles of the house wine and animated conversation with the owner and waiters at Trattoria Portofino, nearly directly under our flat. They were really excited that we liked the house wine. We ordered another bottle to take home with us, and they gave it to us half off. I also distinctly remember that Jenn and I reminisced a long time about our childhood dogs that night. We liked this new and different corner of the city; it brought out something raw and honest.

Tuesday. I wove through neat little alleys, with package underhand, on a solo walk to a DHL pack station on Frankfurter Allee. I wanted to drop off my post cards, and needed to ship that package home, finally. From there I walked to The Bowl to meet Jenn for caffeine and the most amazing vegan sprout bowls I will ever see/have. Tom recommended The Bowl to us. Ugh, he’s perfect.

We then walked southwest to the Spree, and then north up the bank to the East Side Gallery, which is, of course, a preserved section of the Berlin Wall which is home to a rich, compelling, honest and beautiful array of murals, commemorating its history.

We kept walking northwest, through Alexa, the mall in center city. Finally made it to the top of the TV Tower; gained new perspective on all the places and areas we’d visited, and those we would not have time to. We would be leaving Berlin late that evening, to take a night train south to Munich.

We went back to Feuer & Flamme for dinner - this time had chocolate fondue, instead of cheese, for dinner, and told ourselves this was different enough to make up for eating at the same restaurant two nights in a row. At that point we were more function over form, as we wanted to stay close to our luggage, so we could split for the train station not too early, not too late.

Wednesday. Honestly, this overnight train situation was not amazing. The rail cards we had got us seats in a quiet car, but not lay down beds, which we decided actually could be kind of creepy anyway, since the lay down beds are enclosed in rooms of four - two bunks - which means we’d likely be sleeping in very close quarters, with strangers. We had two strangers (who also did not know one another) in our car anyway, but there was something about the fact that we were upright that made us feel more ready to move quickly if needed.

One of our car mates was a man in his sixties, who took up half of his side of the bench with a large bike wheel, suspended from the ceiling but still resting on the seating area. Jenn and I took our spots on the opposite bench, and then one more man joined us.

He was a business man heading south for work, and he would not stop talking. Jenn was in the middle and had both headphones and a sleeping mask on, and he still woke her up at one point, to show her a video on his phone. Haha, lord. Jenn was not happy. I switched seats with her because I wasn’t as tired and could absorb some of his conversation so she could get some rest. We talked shop and he said I should try to get a work visa to take my career to Berlin, where my computer and consulting skills would be in high demand if I could get fluent in German again. It is really a lovely idea...

We had to change trains at Frankfurt Sued, the southern train station in Frankfurt. Four hours later we arrived in Munich, and cabbed to Forum for brunch (it now goes by Neuhauser). We had full German breakfasts - various breads and jams, sausages, fruit and yogurt, boiled eggs, and coffee. So necessary after such a tenuous night of sleep.

We planned to nap at our new Air BNB at Tal 25, right smack dab in the heart of old town Munich, but we were so smitten with Marienplatz, the cobble stone walk ways, the friendly feel of the city... The woodsy, tudor-style structures juxtaposed the familial against the imposing, gargoyled, Neo-gothic, centuries-old buildings and churches - I was captivated. My family originates in Bavaria and I felt very much at home.

We dropped off our luggage, and headed out for... shopping! It was a fun way to get to know the city, and provided us occasional shelter from a cloudy, moody, misty, and sometimes rainy day.

We took dinner in the basement of the Ratskeller, and ate traditional German meals. I was tired, but Jenn, bless her, convinced us to brave it and head out to the famous original Hofbraeuhaus; literally spitting distance from our new flat.

Truthfully - I was intimidated by the massive Hofbraeuhaus. I felt pressure to speak solid German, to guide us, to fit in. The environment at the haus is electric, and loud, and crazy. The waiters are rushing around with enormous pretzels, plates of piping hot potatoes and brats or schnitzels and sandwiches with grainy mustard, and yes - enormous, and overflowing, bier steins. This is not an establishment where you’ll be ushered to your seat at a table. The attitude is very much - find a seat and make friends. Slash do not sit at the tables reserved by team crests. These tables are for locals.

We found our way upstairs to the great hall - a massive room on the second floor, full of enormous, long, sturdy wooden tables, except for a small stage area at the front. Every half hour or so, a couple, dressed in traditional Bavarian garb, does a folk dance. We made friends with a married couple from New Jersey, desperate to talk to anyone, really. They were really sweet, and assured us we would adore our day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle the next day.

After a couple steins, it was decided that Jenn and I definitely, obviously, absolutely needed to buy Lederhosen shirts for ourselves and everyone in Jenn’s family. I chuckle when I think back on this episode. Jenn basically grabbed a whole rack of display shirts to buy, and the sales lady made her put them back, explaining that the ones on the racks are for show, not for sale. It’s hard to explain why this was funny but we eventually got our Lederhosen shirts, the ones wrapped in plastic, the ones actually for sale, and stumbled into the street, laughing.

We needed KFC. A bit of American comfort. This was more of a stop we made for Jenn, but I realized the genius of her idea and ended up getting something. We had decided to try and “feel our way home” without looking at our phones, and we were lost anyway, I thought, so we stopped into a KFC. Sure, why not. The cashier was from Michigan, of all places! We exited the store front, and found ourselves, duh, right there on the main road, a block or two from our flat.

Lights out on our first night in Munich, for a planned super-early start to what would be a magical next day.

Thursday. We woke up at 6 to spruce up and head back to Muenchen Hauptbahnhof, the town’s main train station at which we had arrived one long day prior. Our train took us to Fuessen, a small town right on the border of Switzerland. From there, we caught a bus to Schwangau, an even smaller town, which is home to the magical, fairy-tale, true-life castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. These fortresses are situated high atop mountains, with views of the other, and of the Alpsee and Swiss alps in the distance.

We took breakfast in Schwangau and toured Hohenschwangau, the first castle to have been erected in that vicinity. It was the summer residence of King Maximilian II and his family. Max’s son, King Ludwig II, went on to commission and build Neuschwanstein Castle, inspired by childhood visions of grandeur and by Richard Wagner’s compositions. It serves as the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle, and is truly a wonder to behold. We visited the Museum of Bavarian Kings and learned more about “mad” King Ludwig’s interesting, eccentric, and tragically short and mysterious life. We collected souvenirs, vowed to return, and got on the train back to Munich.

Bomb pastries and coffee drinks at Coffee Fellows at the Munich Hauptbahnhof. I dig. You know how people say your body is made up of 80% water or something like that? At this point in the trip, my body was made up of roughly 80% iced coffee instead. I have some selfies from the trip and my eye hoods are insane. I just powered through the whole trip delirious, pretty much. Never really adjusted.

That night, we went back to the Hofbraeuhaus, determined to have another crack at it and make some friends our age, on a night we figured would yield more, and younger, night owls. I mean, the older couple with kids our age from Jersey was nice, but like. Okay. So we navigated the chaos of the first floor at the haus on a busy night, and hatched our plan... to make friends.... Ha!

If we had to choose an empty table, we would sit in the middle of the benches. Sit too far in toward the wall, and you look desperate. Sit too far toward the edge of the table, and you look like you don’t want company. We finally sat down with a couple we soon learned was on a date. I asked them, in German, if we could sit. They soon learned we were American since Jenn and I chat with one another in English. I don’t think they minded this so much as they minded the disruption to their own private table, but honestly, who goes to Hofbraeuhaus for a quiet date!

So, once again, we are painfully and obviously American and friendless at our own G D table in Hofbraeushaus on a busy night. We were almost like lepers and it was stressing me out. Finally, three guys that seemed to be about our age showed up. We assumed they were German and they assumed the same of us. We eventually all realized we’re speaking English, so we struck up a conversation and learned they were from D.C., too, wouldn’t you know it. Small world after all.... They were passing through Munich for one night on their way to ski week in Austria.

We ordered steins and hopped to the next bier hall, at Paulaner. We saw a table of college-age girls, so Jenn asked them where the fun local places were, and they sent us to this awesome dive bar where 20s kids were dancing, drinking, and spinning honestly really dope 90s mixes. Beverly Kills.

Next, we made our way to Harry Klein, a techno disco, determined to do something super German to counteract the accidental super American/super DC meetup. We danced for hours, burning the candle at both ends, taking it all in.

Friday. Somehow there was a miscommunication (the air BNB host later admitted the error was theirs), and we were woken up at 12, super hungover, by the host, who was ready to clean and prepare the flat for the next guests. We were told check out was 3 hours later so we were unpleasantly surprised by this development. This meant we had to rush to pack and get out of the flat, unshowered, nursing massive headaches.

We got ourselves into an Uber and headed to Catwalk, an eatery in Maxvorstadt, near our next Air BNB. I don’t know what was going on with me but I ordered spaghetti with garlic and tomato sauce for breakfast. This would be the setting for one of my favorite memories of the trip.

First, I preface this story by admitting that both Jenn and I had the hungover giggles, and began ordering mimosas. It was really like “why not” at that point, we were not going to be able to do much to recover the day knowing how we felt. So the shampoo effect took over and made everything better, and funnier.

We were more or less alone in a wing of the restaurant near the entrance, except for a table next to ours, where two boys, who I estimate to have been around 8 years old, chatted idly in German and ate their meals. I wondered why they weren’t in school and where their parents were but there was otherwise nothing alarming about them being there. They were perfectly normal, competent and polite with the waitress.

Our food arrived and Jenn got her iPhone out, to snap a photo of her plate. One of the young boys said to the other, (again, in German, I assume not thinking I could understand) “My older sister also takes pictures of her food.” They both started laughing, and I told Jenn what they said, and pretty soon we were all laughing, and none of us knew why. It was one of those circular laughing situations where you can’t stop because the others can’t stop. We really had a ball with these kids. We never spoke to them directly but there was an unspoken appreciation for all the laughs when the boys paid the waitress and sheepishly rushed out, snickering and jostling one another, as boys that age do.

We checked into a cute, nice, small studio and I was just done-zo. I needed to nap and my head was pounding. Mimosas not actually the most amazing idea. Jenn went out into the city to shop and we agreed to meet at the Augustiner, not realizing there are like, several bier halls with some variation of that name. After a few rookie mistakes and some confusion, we were seated at Augustiner Am Platz, back in the thick of Altstadt (old town), from where we just couldn’t stay away. We met two older guys at the table next to ours - Germans, true blue, wondering how we American girls liked Munich (very much). They advised us to check out a tiny dive bar jam band, and we actually took them up on it. When we got there we realized THEY were the band. It was way too crowded to deal so we split but they were so surprised and excited that we actually showed up.

We ended up watching a lot of these street performers “Konnexion Balkon,” and again wandered romantic and mysterious old town before taxi’ing home for some much-needed rest. Our taxi driver was wearing a Cleveland Indians hat! He had no clue what his hat meant, and was surprised to finally learn.

Saturday. We got on a train to Frankfurt. I remember the countryside views from this train ride were especially idyllic. We had just one full day in Frankfurt, and chose to stay with a host, David, and his mother in the Sachsenhausen neighborhood near city center. We figured we would try out a room share situation for just one night. We weren’t planning to do anything crazy and felt it might be kind of nice to stay somewhere where someone would take after us a bit. Make us coffee, and make us feel at home. They also had this super friendly, old cat. I missed Faye.

We decided what better way to take in Frankfurt than to take a boat tour up and down the river Main. I think this was the first and only sunny day in Germany, and we boy did we take it in. We basked on the upper deck with champagne, and upon disembarking, headed into the city center for... you guessed it... shopping! I bought a Frankfurt University sweatshirt, and I think even bought this light blue sheer gown at one point. I don’t know what got into me but it was reckless. I don’t know why I thought I would be going to a ball of some sort any time soon, or ever. We basically gallavanted around Frankfurt for cocktails or coffee at various places, and spent the last of our disposable funds for the trip. It was very YOLO at that point.

For dinner, we had pizza at an Italian joint in Sachsenhausen. It has since closed, but was called Trattoria Casa Mia.

Sunday. This is the day of packing tetris. I remember this morning well. It was a serious morning, building up to a serious moment. Would we be able to get our luggage zipped shut? With everything we low-key randomly bought one day prior? We had no regrets, but had to get these damned bags shut. We both ended up checking them.

We had delicious cappucinos, prepared by David’s mother. We hugged goodbye and were in a cab, back to Frankfurt Flughafen, to begin our series of flights back to the states.

Frankfurt was otherwise super friendly but something was up with the airport staff this day. I was wearing my bright blue Frankfurt University sweatshirt, and began to take my shoes off in the security screening area, as I believed to be customary as it is in the states. The employee man overseeing the conveyor belt rudely informed me that I was not to remove my shoes, and that he thought that at least if I were wearing such a sweatshirt, I would speak a little German. “Ich kann ja ein bisschen Deutsch, Herr,” I informed him. (”I can speak a little German, sir.”) He left me alone after that.

Dude, Germany, please never become like France where you’re kind of jerky just because people from other countries don’t speak your language or speak it perfectly. Please continue to be your humble friendly selves.

Keflavik airport was super crowded this time. The trip was pretty straight forward. Near the end of our flight from Iceland to Baltimore, we broke out the sheet masks again, one last friendsie skincare hoorah at the end of the long journey. The sweet old lady next to us howled with laughter and snapped photos of us to show her friends.

. . . . . . . . . .

I truly loved this trip and have so many memories I’m thankful to look back on. Every trip, however wonderful, comes with challenges. When spending long days together, and depending on one another, at times traveling in a duo for an extended duration of days requires extraordinary patience, flexibility, and understanding. I was really grateful to make this trip with Jenn, not only because it was meaningful to both of us in terms of exploring the land of our family heritage, but also because we had the emotional maturity to stick it out through the tired or uncertain or awkward moments on such long foreign trips. We were always able to laugh through it. March 16-26, 2017. 🖤❤️💛

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madhaut · 6 years

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What I’m Using Right Now

It’s been a while and I have no time. I had a crazy skincare mishap in May; an interesting story worth telling because it’s a good reminder that things can pop up even when you take good care of yourself.

So here instead is just a run-down of what I’m using and absolutely in love with right now. #SummerSkincare:

Morning

Oil cleanser. BANILA CO Clean It Zero Original Cleansing Balm Emulsifies well. Water cleanser. Neogen Real Fresh Green Tea Cleansing Stick Smells like heaven; you’ll be squeakly clean but not dry/tight.

Toner. Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Original 1970 Holy grail acid toner with phenol to produce a numbing effect. Mask. Biologique Recherce Masque Vivant Smells like Teriyaki/BBQ/yeast but your skin does not really care if products smell nice or contain added perfumes or aromas, unless of course it is having an adverse reaction to them. This is a holy grail mask that I would use every day if I weren’t inclined to conserve it. I will never be without it. Mist. Hylamide Hydra-Density Mist I love a little mist in the summer. Probably a useless step but I enjoy it. Essence. Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence Intensive Moist Light, yeasty essence to make your skin bouncy and bright. Serum. Biologique Recherche Serum Fluide VIP O2 Anti-oxidant serum to fight city stressors. Eye cream. Etude House New Moistfull Collagen Eye Cream Best simple eye cream; great texture, sinks right in and it will last forever. Moisturizer. Biologique Recherche Creme Verte Espoir Light, buttery cream that mixes well with my SPF as the final step. SPF/mixer. Missha Mild Essence Sun Milk SPF 50 ALWAYS WEAR SPF even when it’s cloudy. Your tan fades much more slowly when you haven’t burned your skin.

Evening

Oil cleanser. BANILA CO Clean It Zero Original Cleansing Balm Covered. Water cleanser. Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 Light cleansing milk; best removed with a warm washcloth (do not rinse afterward). Mask. GlamGlow Supermud Not an every-night thing. Serves same purpose as Lotion P50 acid toner; this mask is full of AHAs/BHAs. A nice little sting to it and you’re super clean afterward. Toner (If Skipped Mask). Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Original 1970 Covered. Mist. Hylamide Hydra-Density Mist Covered. Essence. Hylamide SubQ Anti-Age New-found love. Amazing consistency; very plumping and hydrating. Contains anti-aging peptides your skin loves. Serum. Biologique Recherche Serum A-Glyca New into my rotation. An extra kick of acid serum which plays a role in anti-aging; safe to use with acids earlier in routine (from either mask or toner). Eye cream. Etude House New Moistfull Collagen Eye Cream Covered. Moisturizer. The Ordinary 100% Organic Virgin Chia Seed Oil New favorite night oil. Think of chia seeds... this oil is very light while giving you a super-boost of moisture and it’s also TIGHTENING. SPF/mixer. The Ordinary National Moisurizing Factors+HA I mix a few drops of the chia seed oil with this so it’s easier to smooth over the entire face evenly.

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madhaut · 6 years

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Everything I have ever tried from The Ordinary / Deciem: A review. Part 2 (Vitamin C)

SOOOOHOHOHOOO, Faye ~^.^~ has more followers than @madhautblog on Instagram but we are CLOSING IN FAST, TEAM.

Let’s get right into it. Here’s my feedback on the Vitamin Cs. Best consumed with big ole’ glass of OJ (add what you will).

The Ordinary #VitaminC

Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone (Serum or combine with moisturizer) I cautiously say this is the “serum” step because that’s how I used it at the time. Since then, I do not use products with silicones on my face. Beautyeditor has a terrific article on this but, long story short, silicones cause pore congestion. Anything else you put on top of a product with silicones has a much harder time getting to your skin. This product has a gritty texture, and it might actually work best as a post-moisturizer spot treatment, now that I think of it.

I didn’t know about silicones when I got this product and started using it, but what attracted me to it is the 30% concentration - this is one of the highest concentrations I have seen. At this level of potency, skincare companies really consider the delivery vehicle and packaging of the product, because Vitamin C “oxidizes” and is basically prone to spoiling in many watery/serum-based forms, especially in higher concentrations.

More notes on oxidation --> It is my opinion that Vitamin C serum should be clear or very close to clear. This way, you can tell when it is spoiled, because it will have turned dark yellow or orange. Throw it away if it even gets close to that color (if it was clear to begin with). You would be harming your skin to apply an oxidized Vitamin C serum - it will literally produce the opposite of the intended effect. Anyway, products with a silicone base offer a much more stable way to package and provide Vitamin C, so this 30% formula is well-supported.

As an aside, I was recently at a Sephora in CT, and informed one of their retail floor reps about the Vitamin-C-serum-has-expired-if-it-turns-darker rule. I also saw this comment in one of Deciem's Facebook skincare forums: "I’m new to this group and you all seem to know a lot about The ordinary products ! I’d love to order some but I have no idea what to choose for myself ! Even though I worked at Sephora for 5 years the concept baffles me abit lol." I mention this not to toot my own horn, but to caution you to be aware of what you're being sold and whose advice you take, especially if someone is trying to sell you something.

Back to Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone.... The juice, my friends, is not worth the squeeze on this product. My advice is to SKIP this and to not apply products with silicones to your face.

100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder (Serum) This powder comes with a small, plastic scooper and should be mixed with another serum, oil, essence, or emulsion to make it into a serum. There is not a ton of guidance on how much powder to use and I am frankly too lazy to try and figure out the rough concentration % of the concoction that works for me - but it’s one scoop of this LAA powder mixed with one full dropper of Marine Hyaluronics. Since oxidation is a constant concern with Vitamin C, I like the idea of making my own fresh batch from time to time. Alternatively, sometimes I’ll add half a scoop of this powder to my suncreen/moisturizer day routine, but in this case I use more moisturizer than usual, so the finish isn’t gritty. It’s pure, tried-and-true L-Ascorbic Acid, the natural -- but also the least stable -- form of Vitamin C. This form, is, however, much more stable as a powder. Recommended.

(Not The Ordinary) Hylamide Booster C25 (Serum) This is my favorite Vitamin C product from Deciem and my go-to VC overall. I love the texture and love that it contains EAA - ethylated ascorbic acid - which is an extremely stable Vitamin C derivative. “C25″ means it has a 25% concentration, which is in the higher-range. It’s perfectly clear and I love the texture. There’s a slight tingle so I know it’s working, and I find myself adding a drop or two of it to many of my serum or moisturizer/SPF steps.

My overall Vitamin C theory and recommendations (Deciem and not):

This is partially backed up by research and fully backed up by my own personal experience. People use Vitamin C products on their face to brighten and even their complexion, fade dark spots/hyperpigmentation, shield skin from pollution, boost collagen production and help prevent/treat photodamage.

With all of these amazing benefits it’s easy to reach for the highest Vitamin C concentration serum you can find. But there are good reasons to typically aim for products in the 10-15% concentration range, and I have *generally* had better results with concentrations in this range.

1. Vitamin C is finicky and spoils easily especially at higher concentrations. 2. You want the pH level of your Vitamin C serum to be between 2.5 and 4. Often times, serums with concentrations higher than 20% LAA have a pH too low and far away from the skin’s natural pH (5.5 - slightly acidic), which can cause irritation with no extra benefit. Much of the online research indicates that maximum absorbtion seems to happen with 20% Vitamin C, and higher concentrations yield extra that is filtered out and not used.

A few product proof points and other notes:

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic: widely loved. 15% LAA with a couple common booster ingredients (ferulic acid, vitamin E). This brand has my respect but WHY $166 for 30 mls!? If this works for you and it’s your holy grail, mad respect, it just seems like robbery.

Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin C Serum: year-over-year best-seller on Sokoglam and my gateway to vitamin C serums. It’s one of the only serums I bought more than once. I could have sworn it used to have 15% concentation but it says 5% here. Anyway, this serum evened out my skin tone and got rid of some small dark spots in record time; I recommend it to anyone starting out with Vitamin C serums. It’s gentle but effective and has the perfect serum texture. $23.

The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%: their website explains the stability and potency of this product well so I won’t regurgitate. It has the highest review rating out of any of The Ordinary’s Vitamin C’s (except for the pure LAA powder ;) ). I have recommended this to many friends who all love it. $12.90.

I’d be interested to try the new The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% ($10). I don’t need a product like this right now but I recommend it based on the ingredients list since Alpha Arbutin is also known to reduce the look of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. I bet the new The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution ($18) is also a winner (extra stable and nice concentration).

Hylamide C25: I already wrote about this above, and I know that its 25% is higher than both the 15% and 20% magic numbers I have been mentioning. I just want to point out that because the Vitamin C in this product is ethylated, it is more stable (and yields less irritation) at the higher concentration. This product also has a very high review rating on their site - I trust these. $27.

Finally. Store your Vitamin C serums in your fridge, with the cap screwed on tightly. Limit the amount of time the serum is exposed to air and light. Write the date you unboxed your serum in permanent marker on the bottle. All of these steps will help ensure you’re not using a spoiled product, which, again, produces the OPPOSITE of the intended effects of a Vitamin C serum and HARMS your skin!

Ok, that’s all for the Vitamin C post. Direct Acids are next - I have sooo much to say here.

I’ll try to post more. . . .

Thanks for reading! Let me know if you have questions.

In good skin health,

Maddie

Last Night:

Tatcha Pure One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil (Oil cleanser) Neogen Green Tea Real Fresh Foam Cleanser (Water cleanser) The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil (Treat/protect a dry spot) Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Original 1970 (Toner/exfoliant) Kiehl’s Rosa Arctica Eye Balm (Eye cream) The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors mixed with Biologique Recherche Creme Dermopurifiante (Moisturizer) Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution (Spot treatment)

This Morning (kept it simple):

Neogen Real Fresh Green Tea Cleansing Stick (Twice for double-cleanse) The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors mixed with Biologique Recherche Creme Dermopurifiante and Missha Waterproof Sun Milk SPF 50 (Moisturizer+SPF)

#vitamincserum #theordinary #deciem #layerresponsibly #skincare #vitaminc

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madhaut · 6 years

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Everything I have ever tried from The Ordinary / Deciem: A review. Part 1 (Retinol/Retinoids)

I’m going to break my massive Deciem post into several, because honestly I’ve been writing it for over a week and it’s becoming a short novella. Shout out to HS and CL, my blog muses who informed me I need to a. write shorter posts and b. post more often.

ANYWAY - Ever since Deciem started blowing up the skincare market with brands like The Ordinary, Hylamide, NIOD, and others, theordinary.com is the flame and I am the most curious of the moths. I’ve been unable to avoid the juicy Instagram snafus, marketing (or non-marketing) principles, and questionable Glassdoor page of this Canada-based skincare hype machine (this is a post for another day). Ultimately, Deciem is hustling and I refuse to disparage a pioneering brand that is shaking things up in the industry.

{ADDED UPDATE APR 4 - Deciem is in the midst of another controversial social media issue. It’s upsetting on multiple levels and deserves its own post. For now I am just going to do what I wish Deciem’s Instagram account used to -- focus on the skincare.}

Most notable of all tends to be The Ordinary’s price points, which are LOW and unmatched - so one can try a wide array of pure ingredients to see what works - without the guilt. This doesn’t come without risk. The products are potent and must be understood and used as directed to avoid break outs, flare ups, dryness, irritation, or other unwanted assaults against your dermal health and visage.

Now that I have plowed my way through a decent chunk of their catalogue, I am dabbling in some items from Deciem’s pricier lines (Hylamide and NIOD), and have yet to be disappointed. Anyway, the leg work has been done for you, and below are my recommendations. The most approachable way to do this is go section by section as it is displayed on The Ordinary’s website.

I’m planning to have a little fun with this and infuse my personality into these opinions. Remember this is based on what works FOR ME. :)

This post builds on some knowledge from my prior post “THE ROUTINE.”

The Ordinary #Retinoids

For nearly all of TO’s retinoids, the chosen delivery vehicle is squalane oil. TO also sells 100% Plant-Derived Squalane as a stand-alone product. Squalane is a light, non-comedogenic, moisturizing oil which should be used after water-based treatments. For this reason, I do not classify any of these retinoids as a step any sooner in your routine than the serum step - otherwise you’d be betraying the light-to-heavy in-routine viscosity rule. There are few exceptions, but you can break this rule whenever you want if you don’t care about maximixing the effectiveness of your skincare product layering.

Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane (Serum or combine with moisturizer) This was my gateway to TO’s retinoids. TO carries a couple lesser strength Granactive Retinoids, but I skipped straight to the 5% because their website indicated 5% is the highest strength but yet with little-to-no irritation. Once I switched to retinols (reasons below), I used up the rest of this in the shower as a body oil.

Retinol 0.5% in Squalane (Serum or combine with moisturizer) This mid-strenth retinol was an important step in my journey because it is said one has to “build up tolerance” to mitigate excess irritation, redness, flakiness, and sensitivity that can be experienced when first using retinol/retinoids. At first, I experienced little irritation and some flaking, but my skin fully adjusted to this strength within two weeks. After double-cleansing, toning, and watery-essence, I appy 3-4 drops of the oil on its own or mixed in with my moisturizer as the last step before bed. (One might not need to use a moisturizer depending on the time of year.)

Retinol 1% in Squalane (Serum or combine with moisturizer) If I use some other active ingredient in a routine, I might sooner reach for the 0.5% strength, but I LOVE this retinol, and if I had to choose a favorite, this would be it. My skin tolerates it and responds to it very well. I experienced almost no irritation nor flaking when I began using it, but I could tell it is stronger and can still tell the difference today.

I recommend any of the Granactive Retinoids or the Retinols. I guess I would say - why not use the highest strength one you can tolerate? Quick guide for common differences in preferences between retinol and retinoid:

Granactive Retinoid (delivery system for hydroxypinacolone retinoate, aka HPR): your skin is sensitive; you’re concerned about irritation; you want a retinoid gentle enough to use around your eyes; you are interested in a “safer” and possibly faster-acting alternative to retinol

Retinol: your skin is not particularly sensitive; you are willing to “build up” tolerance to higher concentrations; you’re more interested in a well-studied and fully-proven “anti-aging” ingredient; you’re concerned about HPR’s possible interference with Vitamin A uptake

This part here, on the summarized differences between retinol and retinoid, is copied from Michelle Villett, Founder and Editor of Beautyeditor. Here's her post which is the basis of most of my knowledge on this.

Overall, I prefer the retinol product because my skin is not sensitive, I built up tolerance to the 1% strength, and it is just more effective for me.

Use retinoids/retinols PM only, especially if you’re new to them. I have read that if you’re pregnant or nursing you should not use retinol/retinoid products.

Next up - Vitamin C.

-MADDIE

Last Night: Facial/microdermabrasion @ Rescue Spa NYC This Morning: Two rounds of Neogen Cranberry Real Fresh Foam Cleanser Several spritzes of Hylamide Hydra-Density Mist Biologique Recherce Creme Dermopurifiante Missha Waterproof Sun Milk SPF 50 (I’m healing.)

#madhaut #layerresponsibly #skincare #deciem #theordinary #retinol #retinoids #granactiveretinoid

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