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Kathy Hughes
LSAD 1st Year Art and Design
64 posts
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Embroidery Workshop
In this workshop, Ruth showed us how to do the most popular embroidery stitches. These included the back stitch, stem stitch satin stitch, chain stitch, feather stitch and the chain stitch.
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Sewing Process
I began with taking off the sleeves of the shirt using a ripper. I then measured the shirt to my size using pins and clips. Following this I decided to use the sleeves for the top half of the top. I sewed the side of the sleeves using a pleated technique to give a ruched look. I then sewed the sleeves onto the front of the top using my sewing machine. I then sewed two hoops on to the back of the top using left over fabric to create belt like hoops. Finally I sewed together left over fabric to put through the hoops to make a cinch.
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Yohji
Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. He is Considered to be a master reconstruction tailor. Yamamoto is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics.
His signature oversized silhouettes often feature drapery in varying textures. Yohji' collections are predominately made in black, a colour which Yamamoto has described as "modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy but mysterious”
Yamamoto's designs are based on Japanese drawing techniques.
His designs consists of wide cuts, exotic and luxurious materials and elaborate handicrafts. The designer endeavors to make his clothes from the back and not from the front.
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Martin Margiela
Martin Margiela is a Belgian fashion designer and founder of French luxury fahsion house Maison margiela. He is considered to be one of the most influential fashion designers in recent history for his iconic deconstructed, upcycled aesthetic and oversized silhouette.
Margiela founded his eponymous label, in 1988 with his business partner Jenny Meirens. Meirens, the owner of a designer clothing boutique in Brussels described Margiela as "the most talented young designer" she had ever seen.
Margiela was named creative director of womenswear at Hermes in 1997.The news of an avant- garde designer becoming the head of a conservative and classic French house surprised the industry.[10] Though his designs for Hermès didn’t resemble the forward-leaning work of his own label, he nonetheless incorporated a deconstructivist philosophy to his work there.[9]
After leaving fashion, Margiela turned to art as a medium of expression. He spent two years working with Galleries Lafayette -Lafayette Anticipations Corporate Foundation to create more than 40 art works for his first solo exhibition that debuted in October 2021.
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Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood was an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and New Wave fashions into the mainstream
Westwood opened four shops in London and eventually expanded throughout Britain and the world, selling a varied range of merchandise, some of which promoted her political causes such as the Campaign for nuclear disarmament, climate change and civil rights groups
Westwood's designs were independent and represented a statement of her own values. She collaborated on occasion with Gary Ness, who assisted Westwood with inspirations and titles for her collections.
Westwood sadly died in Clapham, London, on 29 December 2022.
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Stella McCartney
McCartney studied her foundation at Ravensbourne College of Design and Communications followed by Fashion Design at central saint martins in the early 1990s, graduating in 1995.
In 1997, McCartney was named as the creative director of Chloé a position she held until 2001.
In 2001, McCartney launched a fashion house under her name, in a joint venture with Gucci Group (now Kering ), and presented her first collection in Paris.
In September 2010, McCartney was appointed Team GB's Creative Director for the 2012 Olympics by Adidas – the first time in the games' history that a leading fashion designer designed the apparel for a country's team across all competitions for both the Olympic and the Paralympic Games
With a cruelty-free ethos and dedication to the environment, Stella McCartney’s collections and accessories are free from fur and leather.
Stella McCartney continuously develops and engages with new ways to reduce environmental impacts, using innovative techniques throughout the supply chain and designs. Driving a modern and responsible sensibility, no leather or fur is used. The brand has implemented the use of regenerated cashmere instead of virgin cashmere, as well as sustainable viscose – both efforts have a less harmful effect on the environment. Another milestone for the brand’s environmental mission was publishing its first global Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) report for the full 2015 calendar year.
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Suzanne lee
Suzanne Lee is a Brooklyn, New York based fashion designer working on fashion and future technologies.
She is a Senior research fellow at central saint martins college of art and design.
Lee founded BioFabricate in 2014 to work at the intersection of design, biology and sustainability. They host an annual conference where businesses that biotechnology to develop material, fashion and clothing present work.
BioCouture is a research project using nature to suggest an innovative future fashion vision. Suzanne Lee use Microbial cellulose (composed of millions of tiny bacteria grown in bathtubs of sweet green tea to produce clothing.
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Gabriel Hearst
Gabriel Hearst is a women's luxury clothing and accessories designer
Gabriela Hearst launched her first designer womenswear collection for Fall/Winter with the long term view and value of sustainability. A brand that reflects a slower pace and process: where tradition influences more than trend, where there is a purpose to every piece, where it’s all in the details.“I wanted to create a brand that had that feeling of things that are well made and long lasting.”
The company began a partnership with Manos del Uruguay, a 50 year old non-profit women’s cooperative that empowers rural women.
Gabriela Hearst introduces Handbags. In the interest of maintaining her values of sustainability, she decided to produce the bags in limited quantities and available only through Gabriela Hearst direct to consumer channels.
By April 2019, Gabriela Hearst achieved the goal to be plastic free with the use of compostable TIPA packaging for all front and back of house as well as the introduction of cardboard hangers.
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Deconstruction
We deconstructed our two garments using a ripper. We then pinned the loose fabric from our garments to a mannequin to make twelve different designs.
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Garment Observation
Dress:
Research on misguided -
Misguided create looks that are designed by in-house talent that's made to equip millenial women with the fashion they need for all elements of their life
Nitin Passi is the man behind Missguided, starting his career in the New York fashion industry he set up on his own in 2009. With a loan of £50k, passion for product and endless ambition,Passi now runs a global multi platform brand and strives to continuously better the fashion world.
Misguided labels-
Coating- 100% polyurethane, Back : 95% polyester 5% elastane
Side seam: Made in chine
End life of polyurethane: 50+ years
Environment effect: helps to fight climate change, effective insulator.
Where did u get: misguided - online , 1 year old
How is it made: To make polyester fibers, PET plastic pellets are melted and extruded through tiny holes called spinnerets to form long threads, which are then cooled to harden into a fiber. This process is called melt spinning. The shape and qualtity of holes can be altered to create fibers with different qualities.
Shirt:
Research on next -
Next is a British multinational clothing, footwear and home products retailer, which has its headquarters in Enderby England. The company was founded by Joseph Hepworth in Leeds in 1864 as a tailor under the name hemp worth & sons. It has around 700 stores. Next is the largest clothing retailer by sales in the United Kingdom, having overtaken Marks and Spencer in early 2012 and 2014. It is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index
Next labels -
100% cotton
Side seam - made in turkey
End of life of cotton : 100 years
Environment effect: Cotton cultivation severely degrades soil quality. Despite the global area devoted to cotton cultivation remaining constant for the past 70 years, cotton production has depleted and degraded the soil in many areas. Most cotton is grown on well-established fields, but their exhaustion leads to expansion into new areas and the attendant destruction of habitat.
Where did you get: my dads wardrobe, next, two years ago
How is it made: Cotton fibers come from cotton plants. Specifically, they grow from the outer layer of the cotton plant. Before they can be turned into sheets or t-shirts, the cotton seeds must first be separated from the plant, and then the fibers from the seeds. Bales of cotton fibers are then spun at a facility where they are carded, combed and blended. Before the carding stage, which involves separating the fibers into loose strands, the cotton is taken off a picking machine. The spun cotton is then knit on a loom also knows as the weaving process, into a rough greyish fabric.
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Design Workshop
I decided to add unraveled swirls to my design as I felt it was missing something. Once again these unraveled swirls represent the hypnosis symbol to do with runners high. I’m really happy with how it turned out
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