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Painting Shop Tools!
When I worked in a bike shop the newer mechanics never had a permanent bench. They also had the least amount of tools, nothing specialized beyond some of the more common tools. When they started they were assigned to a bench for the day, every bench that was used by new mechanics was equipped with the same tools located in the same spot.
This was to ensure routine and help build muscle memory.…
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Kinetic Driver by Giaco Whatever
Kinetic Driver by Giaco Whatever
If you’re a DIY enthusiast or a professional tradesperson, you know that having the right tools is crucial to getting the job done right. And when it comes to screwdrivers, there’s no shortage of options on the market. But one brand that’s making a name for itself is Giaco Whatever and his Kinetic Driver.
Giaco Whatever is an Italian maker who has taken the traditional screwdriver and given it a…
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My Favorite Makers YouTube Channels of 2022
My Favorite Makers YouTube Channels of 2022
DIY enthusiasts and makers will definitely want to check out these awesome YouTubers for some crafty inspiration and entertainment. From woodworking and metalworking to plastic fabrication and everything in between, these talented individuals have a lot to offer in terms of skills and knowledge.
First on the list is Jimmy Diresta, who has a wealth of experience in all things DIY and is always…
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I wanted to make something that would feature a nice pen or pencil on a desk, so I settled on a tray with a nice concave dish to it.
After processing some scrap walnut to 48mm x 28mm or 1 7/8" x 1 1/8" keeping in mind that the router bit needs to fit within the width plus a little extra. So adjust as needed.
I used the edge of my bench and some box tubing as a guide spaced exactly as wide as my router, I then found the center and attached the work piece to the middle of the scrap base.
Attach the base to the work surface so that it's not going to move when we start routing.
NOTE: Make sure that when you are attaching the work piece to the base that your screws are nowhere near when the router bit will be!
My router was loaded up with a 1-3/4-Inch bowl bit that I bought off of Amazon.
Mark the length of the pencil or pen + a little extra. I wanted about an inch past the length of my pencil to where the radius of the bit would begin. For me that was 21 cm or 8 1/4".
I then began to make some light passes stopping at my lines and making sure to take my time. I went about the full cutting depth of my bit.
After removing the work piece from the base I cut it to length matching the edge thickness as best as I could to the ends.
Now you could stop here but I felt like I was on a roll with the roundness of this thing. So I headed over to the old rusty and dusty belt sander to match the radius on the ends.
And now it's time to sand! I worked my way up from 100 to 400 grit hand sanding the inside.
For a finish I used my trusty Tung Oil.
I hope you enjoyed this project, I know it was fun to make. I think this would look amazing if you had some very figured woods.
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I found some simple animal blocks on Pinterest, so I made a few :)
This is an awesome project to use up your small scraps of wood!
I used the band saw to cut little toes and noses. Drill bits for the eyes.
I created the ears by using my band saw and just cutting in angles that I thought looked good for the cats.
The dog's ears since they are typically floppy were glued onto the side of its head using CA glue.
If these are recreative I would use the bent nail for a tail but if you plan on making these for children consider using the paracord and gluing in the tail, this will also let you add a splash of colour.
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A couple of years ago I kept seeing little block robots and wanted to make some for my kids, nieces, and nephews.
They are simple builds really only needing a drill and a saw, some CA glue and paracord.
Use your creativity to determine the size of the hands, feet, head, and body.
I chose to give the robot a mouth using the table saw and countersunk some eyes.
In the thumbnail shot I used a 5/8ths forstner bit and CA glued some marbles for eye!
I drilled a hole all the way through the center of the head, and across for the arms.
The legs go in about 1cm and I drilled about halfway through the hands and feet.
Using CA glue you and activator if you like you can glue the feet and one hand.
Give the leg holes on the body a bit of CA glue and insert the paracord legs. The activator will set the glue immediately.
When doing the arms I would recommend sliding the paracord all the way through and then glue the other hand, you don't need to glue the arms into the body but if you do, slide the arm out a bit and then add some CA glue and pull the arm back in.
Keep the head/neck paracord longer than you need, once you glue the head on you can finish the cord off however you like.
Optionally if you don't want a knot on the top of the head then don't drill all the way through.
Using a lighter or a torch to clean up the ends of the paracord isn't needed but makes life easy!
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A while back I was on the local news channel as someone who turned trash into treasure. While I don't know how many treasures I have made. I do like trash with treasures in it!
An elderly woman contacted me and said that I could have whatever tools were left in her basement that belonged to her late husband.
I was beyond excited, I called a friend of mine and we took a trip.
The short version of the story is that most of the tools she had left were tools that I already had so my friend made off with a few good scores but I did manage to get a number of smaller tools including this utility knife.
It is an old Fuller box knife made in Canada from cast aluminum. I am guessing that it's probably 30+ years old.
After dismantling the knife, the restoration process was rather simple. Sand, sand, and then sand some more.
Once the knife was all cleaned up, I used some dark Starbond CA glue to fill in the label which I think looks amazing!
I hope you enjoyed it, and if you did please leave a like 👍 and a comment 😀
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A few years ago before all of the Minecraft pixel builds took off and before I really started posting to my YouTube channel I had made my daughter wooden Pixel Pickaxe and posted it on Reddit, It was by far the most popular thing I Have posted on Reddit to date, and so I decided to rebuild it, but this time as a two-part series I will also be making a Pixel Sword that you can see here:
https://youtu.be/62x1iYHJsfU
The process is rather simple but time-consuming with the number of individual glue-ups.
I chose two similar kinds of wood like Oak and Maple for the blade and the inside of the handle. Then a contrasting wood like Walnut for the handle.
The size and scale of the Pickaxe were not overly important, but I did end up creating 20mm cubes, so no matter what size you choose, do some rough drawings to scale and make sure that you end up with a size that you like. The Pickaxe that I built was 12 squares tall.
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I think by now, we all know about the "trying times" and our lives have been inconvenienced more than we had anticipated. I know mine has!
I wanted to build something that was a little bit of a joke, as many people are still having trouble finding Toilet paper. I thought to my self, what is everyone doing with their stockpiled toilet paper?
So I made a Toiler paper Tower, something to hold and organize your Toilet Paper while still.
I built this using some scrap wooden slats from an old bed, starting off by gluing op the boards so that I got the width I needed.
Next after planing the wood, I should have sanded it, but I did that at the end. I measured a roll of my triple-ply plush TP giving me my overall width and depth. I decided to store 4 rolls and then using 1 would be ideal.
I had intended to drill a 1 1/4" hole through one board and partially though the next but in my haste realized that I had the boards facing the wrong direction, so I just went all the way through.
I went with simple glued and nailed mitered joints that were less than simple to nail together, If you happen to have a nail gun then you won't have any issues. I, unfortunately, do not so I struggled.
Since I didn't have any round stock that matched any of my Forstner bits I took the closest scrap closet rod and reduced it on the lathe.
After a coat of Tung oil, it was finished!
I hope you enjoyed the project, and please stay safe!
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This is the first part of a two-part series where I will be building some Minecraft Tools.
The process is rather simple but time-consuming with the number of individual glue-ups. I chose two similar kinds of wood like Oak and Maple for the blade and the inside of the handle. Then a contrasting wood like Walnut for the handle.
The size and scale of the Pickaxe were not overly important, but I did end up creating 20mm cubes, so no matter what size you choose, do some rough drawings to scale and make sure that you end up with a size that you like. The Pickaxe that I built was 12 squares tall.
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In the fall I had wanted to do some turning but didn’t want to do anything too big so I tried my hand ay making some Wooden Tops. I watched an awesome video from Worth Effort that really helped me get this down, as you can tell by the thumbnail, I made a few :)
Shawn goes into a lot more details here so please check out his channel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRGkjvqKMjw
To start, I chose to use a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge. I know that the spindle gouge is the better and probably correct tool to use but for whatever reason, I had a lot more success using my bowl gouge.
In any case, I start by defining the shape of the bottom sanding if needed then work my way back to define the handle. I would do my sanding final sanding before applying a finish, I chose to use a Beeswax and mineral oil finish.
When choosing the wood, a hard tight grain wood works best. I have the most consistent results using Maple, but Walnut also worked well. Avoid using any wood with knits, mixed sapwood, or figure as the tops will end up uneven and wobble too much.
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Years ago I came across an old house that was being renovated and spotted a 2x4 sticking out of the trash so I grabbed it. Since the growth rings were very tight and thought that I would build a nice box for some of my mechanical pencils with it.
After planing the lumber and cutting the 2x4 into quarter sawn strips I glued a few of them up to create the base and the lid for my box.
Hand planing and sanding the wood now saves a bunch of time down the road.
Dimensions
I was only really concerned about the inside dimensions of the box which for me were: 180mm long 90mm wide 25mm deep
Cutting
After cutting the pieces to length, I needed to cut a thin groove down the length of the sides in this case 25mm from one edge.
The front also needed to be cut through in order to allow for the lid to slide through resulting in a front that is 25 mm tall.
Fitting the lid
In order to shape the lid, I used my block plane to chamfer the edge until it slid easily through the groove. Once the lid fit I then shaped the lid by blending the chamfer into a nice easy curve.
Glue up
To lend a hand with the glue up I used my 1x2x3 blocks to make sure things were nice and square. I also started off using Wood glue, then switched to CA glue as it is plenty strong enough and sets up much faster.
Finishing
After the glue had cured it was time for some light sanding, mainly to remove the CA glue that soaked out.
Once everything eas sanded to 400 grit I applied a few thin coats of tung oil.
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I had this piece of walnut that was discarded by a furniture company, they are looking for consistency when they make something like a chair or a tabletop so highly figured sections of wood usually end up in the waste.
The best part about woodturning in my option is that no two bowls are ever the same.
I start off by locating a rough center of the piece and mark a circle. To make things faster on the lathe I use the bandsaw to rough out a circle.
Next, I drill a center hole for the chuck screw. I actually drilled too deep here and you will see me fix that by applying some CA glue and walnut shavings.
After shaping the outside and cutting a tenon on the bottom I flip the bowl around and begin to shape the inside. This piece of wood actually had some voids on the inside that I had to fix by applying more CA glue and shavings too. Using an activator sets the CA glue almost instantly.
Once everything has been sanded up to 800 grid I then take a handful of shavings and polish the surface. I find this to be faster than going up to 600 or 800 grit and produces a great result in my opinion.
Now you will see me chiseling off the tenon, This was because my flat jaws were unfortunately too small to hold this bowl.
Originally I was kinda bummed out about that but I think the rounded bottom turned out really nice.
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My son loves to play chess and I have no idea how to play. So I decided to build a chess set!
I originally thought of turning these on the lathe but quickly gave up on that plan, as I lack the skills to do so. But I am a huge fan of modern art and minimalist objects. And started to do some research and eventually came across a set created by Lanier Graham in 1966 and fell in love with its simplicity and really enjoyed how all of the pieces fit in a tiny little box.
This build is Part 1 of 2 and may likely contain an optional Part 3 which would be a box to hold the chess pieces.
What I really like about this set is that the dimensions are not terribly specific.
In my case, I chose to go with chess pieces that were 20mm by 20mm, so a Pawn would end up being 20mm cubed.
I will give the dimensions of each piece in terms of blocks, allowing you to adjust the piece size if you wish.
Sizing and Dimensions
Because I started with the chess pieces I wasn't concerned too much about the size of the pieces, but make sure to check and confirm the official rules of Chess. I think your pieces are supposed to be about 25% smaller than the squares they go on. 1” square would be a ¾” piece.
Pawn - 1x1 block Rook - 1x2 block Knight - 1x2 block Bishop - 1x2 block Queen & King - 1x6 block, plus the kerf of your bandsaw or hand saw blade
Now we will need to do some layout
The Pawns are simple, create a cube The Rook is also super simple, create a block 1x2
For the Knight, I made a mark in the middle and divided the width essentially creating a lap joint.
The Bishop is a 45-degree angle starting at one end and should end in the middle of the piece.
The King and Queen are a bit different, find the middle and draw a 45-degree line on both sides of the half so that you have a V.
Final Steps
Once everything has been cut out and obviously for each colour of wood ( I chose maple and walnut, but you could use any contrasting woods ) it was time for a lot of sanding. Because this chess set is “Modern” we want to maintain the sharp edges so break the edges but do not round them.
I applied a few coats of Tung oil, it was rather daunting applying then cleaning off the excess oil but it turned out amazing!
Keep an eye out for Part 2 where I build the Chess board!
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I want to first start off by saying this was an experiment, One of those moments where you see something and think. How hard could that be? Well, this was harder than I thought.
Let’s start off by creating the wooden wick when I did my research for this project I read that using softwood or hardwood didn't matter, I also saw that some people soaked their wicks in olive oil. More on that later.
I started off by selecting an old piece of cedar thinking that the smell would be amazing. Cutting it into a thin strip, I then planed it down to about 1mm thick. Using a utility knife cut some strips about 1cm wide.
Wick is done!
Now grab some beeswax, the beeswax that I used was sourced locally and raw. Raw beeswax is nonprocessed or refined so it has some impurities in it. If you’re looking for beeswax and don’t want to pay crazy high prices, try contacting a local honey producer and see if they sell beeswax directly.
Now what you will see me do is melt the wax using my camp stove because I don’t have a stove in the garage. I would highly recommend that you use a Double boiler to prevent any burning. The beeswax is also extremely hot and knocking the wax off of the camp stove would be a disaster and very dangerous.
After checking to see how long I needed the wick I cut two lengths and dipped it in the beeswax to hold them together.
By now I had already done a few tests. I tried the cedar that I started off with, Would not stay lit at all, I then tried soaking it in Olive oil and I don't know whose idea it was to use olive oil but it smells terrible.
My final product was maple and people works perfectly.
Being very careful pour the melted wax into a canning jar holding the wick to the side for a bit, the wax will begin to set rather quickly depending on the temperature, Once it sets up a little center the wick and pours in the rest of the wax.
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This has to be one of my favorite things to look at. I love how Walnut has so much character.
I will have an upcoming video on how I made this.
I feel that I am at s tipping point where my videos are either how to, or how I do.
It’s very hard to explain how I made the previous puzzle without talking, this one while I think it looks cooler is very simple to build.
Maybe I will start doing voice overs. I tried to figure out Fusion 360 and SketchUp but wasn’t getting anywhere very fast.
#maker #diy #puzzles #puzzle #yeg #yyc #yvr #prototyping #prototype #izmscrap (at Edmonton, Alberta)
https://www.instagram.com/heyimamaker/p/BsWubcNAAEV/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1n819ugetyi0u
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