dbontheat
See Slim Hike
Trail name: Slim Shady. Left DC to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail in 2017. Drove across the country to try something new for 2018. ig: @_danagram_
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Nostalgia
May 9, 2018
“Holy shit! I caught you!”
A year ago today, as I was descending a hill leaving Wapiti Shelter, 600 miles into my thru-hike, I saw a familiar purple-shirt/zebra-print-shorts/purple-sock combo bounding toward me and and a familiar smile beaming up at me. It was Snapchat, the very first person I met on the Appalachian Trail.
“Yooooooo!” I answered.
I was elated to see Snap. We met at the top of Springer Mountain and hiked together for the first 450 or so miles, but a side trip home took one of my main hiking partners away from me just shy of Damascus, Virginia. Since she had returned to the trail about a week prior, she had been hiking a grueling 20 to 25 miles a day to make up for the lost time and catch up to me.
We immediately fell back into step -- commiserating about the rain and fog, updating each other on our trail friends’ whereabouts, and planning out the next few days. Although I had enjoyed doing my own thing and hiking with new people since Damascus, there was a sense of familiarity with Snapchat that felt like home on the trail.
Our reunion came at a great time -- it was rainy, foggy, and kind of dismal. I had planned to hike farther that day, but Snapchat and the reunion convinced me to cut it short and stop at a popular hostel half a mile off the trail -- Woods Hole Hostel.
Fate may have led me there, because it turned out to be one of my top two hostels on the entire trail (it’s a toss-up between Woods Hole and Shaw’s in Monson, Maine). At Woods Hole Hostel, we warmed up by a fire, continued to catch up, and Snapchat even snagged me a slice of chocolate cake from inside after dinner.
It wasn’t long before we lost each other again (see: My Worst Day Yet on the AT), had another rollercoaster-like reunion a day later, and then split for basically the rest of the trail.
Snapchat and I only hiked together for about a third of the trail, but, maybe because it was the first third, I looked back on those days with extreme nostalgia during and after the trail. We were fresh, baby hikers who had no idea what was ahead of us. We had our best and worst days early on. We laughed harder than ever before, bonded quickly, and became family.
Now, a year later, I still have pangs of trail nostalgia at least once a week.
But my nostalgia triggers aren’t what I expected them to be.
It’s not the backpacking gear that I’m surrounded by every day thanks to my job. It’s not the weekend backpacking trips I take with new San Diego friends. It’s not even the instagram posts of current Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers that I follow.
Instead, it’s walking into a post office and feeling that familiar empty, sterile space that’s consistent from state to state. It’s seeing a stack of Pop-Tarts in the grocery store and noticing not much has changed in a year despite the plethora of options. It’s stepping into a musty hotel -- again, all the same across the country -- and instinctively looking around for a hiker box or a pool.
I miss the trail, but more, I miss the experience. For nearly six months, I explored the country by foot, eagerly collecting boxes sent by loved ones to remote but nearly uniform post offices, restocking on unhealthy pastries and snacks from regional grocery stores that really only differ in name, and occasionally taking respite in a simple but comforting hotel or motel room with friends.
There are only a handful of people in this world who understand this completely. People like Snapchat. It’s tough to come down after such an experience, and even harder when nostalgia rears its backward-looking head during the most mundane tasks, but it’s comforting to know that we’re not alone.
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Backpacking Joshua Tree National Park: California Riding & Hiking Trail: East to West
As a recent East-Coast transplant, I’m unfamiliar with desert hiking, but as a recent Appalachian Trail thru-hiker, I also have an “I got this” attitude when it comes to backpacking.
So when my friend called me up to see if I wanted to backpack in Joshua Tree, the playground for every Southern California adventurer, I was game. My friend picked out the California Riding and Hiking Trail, a 37.5-mile trail that traverses the park between Black Rock Canyon just south of Yucca Valley and the park’s North Entrance in Twentynine Palms. It seemed like optimal if not ambitious mileage for our weekend getaway. Most reviews of the trail recommend taking two cars and leaving one at either end during your 2-3 day trip and going west to east, finishing at the trailhead by the North Entrance. But we only had one car between us and didn’t want to risk not finding a hitch on a Monday. We rationalized that it would make more sense to do a reverse hike, even though a quick Google search didn’t show any itineraries for a west-bound trip. But we’re both the type to go against the grain, for better or worse, so we decided we would make up our own plan. We’d drive through the park and cache water, park our car at the Black Rock Canyon Campground, hitch to the North Entrance, and start our hike from there.
If you don’t read further, read this: I wouldn’t recommend going this direction. But if you have no choice, have already done this trail eastbound and want to mix it up, or are a little masochistic, here’s one itinerary that could work for you.
Day 1:
In the morning, drive from the North Entrance and cache water at Geology Tour Road and either Ryan Campground or Keys View Road (but before, look over the National Park Service’s information on backpacking and water caching). Exit the West Entrance of the park to drive to Black Rock Canyon Campground, where you park your car and fill out a registration card for backcountry camping. Desperately try to find a hitch to the North Entrance. This is actually pretty easy -- there are tons of families camped there heading to the North Entrance eventually, and there are super cool locals milling around.
If you’re lucky enough to get dropped off at the trailhead just south of the North Entrance, you’re hiking among the Joshua Trees already. The first few miles hugging Park Blvd are flat and forgiving. Miles 9, 10 and 11 are a gradual uphill. In your rearview is a nice stretch of *I think* the Mojave National Preserve that you don’t really get to enjoy. This is the first of many times you say, “Maybe this is why everyone hikes this the other way.”
At Geology Tour Road, roughly 12.5 miles later, pick up your cache and (try to) make it one more mile to camp (you’re technically supposed to backcountry camp a mile from a road or campground, but you’re wiped out). Rest up because there’s more climbing tomorrow.
Day 2:
Hey! You get to start the day with a slight downhill! The trail flattens out on your way to Ryan Campground and Keys View Road. Since this is your second and likely your final water cache, consider having a hot lunch rather than a hot dinner to avoid carrying more water for later. Drop your trash and recycling at Ryan Campground and maybe if you’re lucky, a car camper left behind a couple Cokes by the dumpsters. Hike on. Another three solid miles of trail after Keys View Road, you experience deja-vu to the earlier constant uphill climb. Turn around and marvel at the view down into the Pinto Basin that traditional east-bound hikers get to enjoy. Think to yourself, “You just had to be different, didn’t you?”
The trail gets really fun from here, as you climb in elevation into some real mountains. You wind up, down, and through them, noting the change in vegetation after every peak, until you reach a valley before Upper Covington Flat. You planned to go further today, but your hamstrings are screaming at you and this looks like an okay place to settle for the night. Fifteen miles for the day ain’t bad.
Day 3:
With some rest, you’re ready to climb up some more mountains! Really though, this is probably the most beautiful stretch of trail, so maybe you’re smart afterall for going this direction and saving the best for last. The terrain has changed completely, the Joshua Trees have grown taller, and every once in a while you can see some snow-capped peaks beyond the wilderness boundaries. It’s just 10 miles to the campground and whatever treats you left yourself in your car. You left yourself treats, didn’t you?
Now, here’s the tricky part. Oh, it was only tricky for us? Anyway… the last few miles follow a large wash but intersects with other unmarked trails going up into the brush. We earned some *bonus miles* on these side trails, but if 37.5 is enough for you, just keep your map handy and, when in doubt, follow the wash. The trail is well marked, so eventually you see a mile marker.
The last five or six miles through the wash are actually all downhill, so there’s your reward for being unique! Also, when you finish at this end, you run into day hikers who smirk while you’re at your car taking a hippy bath to remove a three-day layer of sand and dirt. So enjoy that, too. From here you should probably treat yourself to a burger and a beer at Joshua Tree Saloon, or anywhere, really. Cheers! You’ve proven you don’t have to follow the “easy way,” and even better -- you never have to do it again.
This post originally appeared on Adventure 16′s blog.
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October 6, 2017 -- After leaving Dallas (fully stocked on Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and other healthy roadtrip snacks), I veered north where most cross-country road-trippers would continue West. I really wanted to see friends in Denver. Plus, I have never been to Oklahoma or Kansas (and I’m not sure if I’ll ever have reason to go). Blink and you could miss the “Welcome to Oklahoma” sign. But you could never miss the fields of wind turbines or this up-close encounter with a wind turbine blade being hauled along the highway. I stopped briefly in Oklahoma City. That’s about all I have to say about that.
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October 4-6, 2017 -- After a quick stop in Natchitoches, I made it to Dallas -- my first time here! Dallas overwhelmed me with its sprawl and traffic, but in hindsight, it was only preparing me for life in San Diego. And when in the heart of Texas in October, one does not pass up the Texas State Fair. I’ll never forget that fried cinnamon bun (not pictured, sadly).
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October 4, 2017 -- I was really hoping that this road trip would lead me to small, random towns I would otherwise find myself in, and this day, it delivered. This serendipitous encounter happened in Natchitoches, Louisiana (chances are it is not pronounced how you’re thinking unless you’re from Louisiana), right off the highway on my way to Dallas. A friend and former colleague from DC had recently moved there and invited me for lunch. Natchitoches is charming and actually pretty bustling (or maybe just poorly planned?). I grew up in the south, but I hadn’t seen actual fields of cotton until pulling into this town. It’s also the home to the movie "Steel Magnolias" that came out the year I was born.
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October 4, 2017 -- I was told I had to have some “boudin” before I left southern Louisiana, so naturally I found it at a used car joint. Boudin is basically Cajun sausage. Stuffed with what? Dunno, but it was good.
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October 2-4, 2017 -- I arrived in New Orleans (barely) late at night. In typical New Orleans fashion, a huge storm hit before I arrived, flooding many off-ramps and city streets. I slogged through the remaining flooding and made it to my friend’s place, where I spent a couple excellent days exploring a new part of NOLA, Mid-City. The neighborhood is away from the French Quarter and the other typical tourist spots. It’s also adjacent to City Park (supposedly 50% larger than Central Park) where I spent a full day exploring. I fell in love with New Orleans like I never have on previous visits. The culture, architecture, and people are more authentic than anywhere else in the country, in my opinion.
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*Back to my road-trip updates*
October 2, 2017 -- Atlanta was the perfect start to my road trip. Met up with amazing and hospitable friends, had excellent food and craft beer, and enjoyed the BeltWay (pedestrian walkway with art installations and parks). Next up was New Orleans. But on the way, I serendipitously met up with a friend in Birmingham, AL, a city I’ve never been before! Here I am at Vulcan Park and Museum on Red Mountain (part of the Appalachians!). Sadly, Sloss Furnaces, an old iron-plant-turned-art-center, was closed that day.
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What your favorite piece of gear says about you
Patagonia trucker hat:
You lunch exclusively at Chipotle. Your Tinder bio includes the phrase “gym at least five times a week.” That’s why you hike fast -- your calves are as chiseled as Patagonia’s own Mount Fitz Roy. In fact, your name is Roy. Or Ray. Or Rob.
DIY hammock with built-in mesh bug net:
Your friends look up to you for “having your shit together.” You wear socks with sandals, but somehow pull it off. People forget your name but anyone who has actually talked to you thinks you’re cool as shit. Basically, you’re a 90s teen movie makeover waiting to happen.
8-inch hunting knife with leather case:
Your favorite shirt is no shirt. You’re underage but you say your drink of choice is “bourbon on the rocks.” Your nickname is something out of Top Gun or another 80s film you’ve never seen. You gave yourself that nickname.
Headlamp with three color settings and a strobe effect:
If Chris McCandless knew what you knew, he’d still be alive. You don’t night-hike to impress the babes, you night-hike because you actually might be nocturnal. Impressing the girls isn’t really hard for you in the daylight, anyway.
The North Face furry fleece jacket:
Although you picked out the color, Daddy bought you your fleece. And your pack. And everything inside it. People judge you, but you don’t care because you already surpassed the 100-like minimum for your night-one campfire insta. Get it, girl.
Plastic BIC lighter that doubles as a bottle opener:
You have no shame asking a waiter to give you the leftovers that party just left behind. You outfitted yourself entirely from Target and Walmart. You’ve base-camped Everest and summited K2 -- twice -- but someone wouldn’t know unless they asked. You have a doctorate and zero social media footprint.
Extra-long 15-degree 950-fill down sleeping bag:
You hate hostels and will splurge for a hotel room -- for you alone -- on your birthday. You wouldn’t even think about going to Bed Bath and Beyond without a 20%-off coupon. You wear too much blue. You’re me. This is me.
#at2018#thruhiker#thruhiking#at2017#hikertrash#appalachian trail#appalachiantrail#hiking#hiker#backpacking#geartalk#gearnerds#gearnut
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March 14, 2018 -- Today marks one year since I set foot on Springer Mountain in Georgia and started my 2,190-mile, 176-day thru-hike on the Appalachian Trail to Maine. The memories are precious and the people I met along the way are golden. I looked back on my very first journal entry (I managed to journal every day of the trip) and it made me LOL, so here you go:
“Night 1 - March 14, 2017
Miles Hiked: 9.1 (8.1 + Springer Mountain parking lot mile)
Start: Springer Mountain
End: Hawk Mountain Shelter
Well, it’s freezing. Hiked thru the snow all day. Started around 11am. Met another DCer @ top of Springer Mountain: Shaylee? (LOL, sorry Shani). Hike felt good, minus growing-into pains w/ pack. Met ppl along the trail, including Steven from Wellsley. Pet a dog! Staying in shelter bc it’s so cold (in the teens or colder tonight). Sleeping @ the base of everyone’s feet. Glad to be in shelter though. Gonna try to get warm! Tried to stay up and move aound as much as possible to stay warm. Layered up! Two negatives from today: almost choked on tuna lunch at shelter. Kinda embarrassing. Also, don’t know exactly where everything is, including Sawyer Squeeze. Not cool but too dark now. Two good things: starting out with hiking partner, beautiful snow.”
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September 30, 2017 -- Piedmont Park and Popsicles in Atlanta. Little did I know, this was the first of many visits to city parks along my cross-country road trip. More about those later.
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September 30, 2017 -- After a little downtime (and mom time) in Charlotte, I hit the road again. This time, heading west. Check out my blog post for more about how I landed on that decision. First stop: Hotlanta!
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September 19-20, 2017 -- Drove south to North Carolina, stopping in the Triangle Area to see family -- AND tramily! Had my final hike in these bad boys, my third pair of Merrell Moabs, with Hamilton!, a trail buddy who is also from the Old North State.
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September 17, 2017 - Oh yeah, I cut my beard off! RIP, Trail Beard.
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September 16, 2017 -- H Street Festival arrived just in time, while my hiker hunger was still in full effect.
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September 13, 2017 -- My road trip back south continued with a pitstop in Washington, DC, my home before starting the trail. Serendipitously, my first two friends from the trail (my OG tramily) were also in the DC area, so we reunited to show Navy Yard what hiker trash looks like.
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September 11, 2017 -- From Boston, I flew to Baltimore where my dad picked me up and drove me to Pennsylvania, where he was keeping my “stuff” and my car. Added a fresh AT sticker that I purchased only after completing my thru-hike in Maine.
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