The journey continues!

The eighth year of the Aesthetic Voyage picks up here: 

https://aestheticvoyage2018.tumblr.com/

2017 in Review >

My life is my craft; how I spend my days is my art. The end of each year, is a benchmark of a unique masterpiece.  Create.  You make plans for each month, and you just hope for flashes of joy and greatness in there.  An aesthetic voyager, just searching for moments - the education of a wandering man.   A firey sunset on Winchester Mountain > in a day, you fly, drive, and then walk up a mountain - not knowing what you’ll get....moments locked in the color of the sky in a place proud to share with your partner.  This whole thing, is about creating the possibility of moments knowing that it is these, that make a life.  A life by design?  Maybe.   Or, design that creates the possibility for life.

From Mile High to Manila; Havana to Hawaii - 2017 was a year filled with GO.   The 7th year of the photo-a-day experiment, the Aesthetic Voyage, brought me to some pretty places that I’ll look back on with nostalgia - a teton sunrise, papa’s finca in Cuba, the north shore, a small town named for Chief Joseph, totality eclipse in Nebraska, a balut in Manila, fall color in appalachia, an old hotel lobby straight outta Hollywood, and Hollywood itself.  For all of its highs - it was also one of the more challenging years of the 7; struggling to meet intentions, the uphill would get to me - I roll into 2018 with the one-word intention of “Better” - to do and be and have better.  A big year lies ahead where I’ll marry my partner, visit a new continent, and hopefully find a better place to settle down.  What better way to prepare for another spin around the sun, than to reflect back on the year that was - the “balcony” work in motion, with a good soundtrack, and delicate nostalgia.

Only 3 Bucket List items would fall in 2017-  but they were some big ones.  I wrote a toast for Papa in the El Floridita, and raised it to him the next day from the front porch of his Finca while AC and I both sipped our own bottles of Havana Club rum in the muggy Havana air  - back in time.  5 months later we’d be on another island, Oahu, where Id check the 50th state box, and swim with the sea turtles.   In salt water at 8am, soaking in the sunrise with one big turtle, a growth on its fin - hanging out and waiting for me at the surface.  The spirit animal that called to me to be my own navigator, now showing me how its done.  32 seemingly impossible tasks, now sit in the boneyard 7 years after starting. Building blocks of living as a verb.

2017 was also defined as a year of filling in new roads.....  my new game for the year with other checklists now completed.   I ran some good ones - PCH in So Cal, a full loop through Oregon, the loneliest road in America in Nevada, some eye popping 2 laners in Wyoming, fall color on West Virginia’s country roads, and rolling bluegrass of Kentucky, were some of this years favorites.  In 2018, I plan to see more of Mississippi, the one state that I just barely tapped back in 2014.  As my ramble partner sits at 45 states, I also wonder what kind of effort it would take to get her to 50 as well.  What a beautiful union we have - so much to see, especially off the interstate.  It was a year that I think my itinerant heroes, would be proud of and it was a real pleasure that I bumped into one in 2017 who let me know it was true.

The real blessing of this photo a day project, is not just a time capsule of the good days and the exciting, and the beautiful proud days....  but the forced reflection on the hard days, the bad days.  In 2017, we lost Grandma, but repaired things with my Dad - the undercurrents between the lines, looking back.  I struggled with my weight, health and diet - the biggest mountain to move in 2018.  I struggled with my work, as the fun fell out of my long celebrated fun-draising.  As much as the motions kept up the momentum, I got some real work to do to begin again and re-invent.  In September/October I almost quite the project altogether - its hard to do on those bad days... as those closest to me know all to well.  But I keep journeying for joy, looking at each day as a gift to be celebrated....the rhythm of a life.  With 2,557 days here in the book - a hope for creation still pulses through every new 86,400.  In the new year, I need to focus less on what we did - but how we did it.  That will be the measure of growth in 2018. A slowing of the pace, more intentionality, and enjoying the simpler moments experiencing this life.

“No, life cannot be understood flat on a page. It has to be lived; a person has to get out of his head, has to fall in love, has to memorize poems, has to jump off bridges into rivers, has to stand in an empty desert and whisper sonnets under his breath... “  ~Donald Miller

2017 Superlatives

Best Photo: Grand Teton Sunrise from Schwabacher’s Landing

Best Breweries  a: Dialogue Brewing, Albuquerque NM  b. Creature Comforts, Athens GA, and c. Urban Chestnut, St Louis, MO

Best Sandwich:  Santa Maria Tri Tip, Santa Maria CA Best Beer: Imperial Coffee Milk Stout on Nitro (Bittersweet Nitro), Left Hand Brewing Co, Longmont CO Best Roadtrip: Bluegrass Ramble > Rally Nashville to Elizabethtown to Louisville, February Best Adventure: Cuban Excursion, July Best Meals -  a.) Louis' Basque Corner - Reno, NV  b). Aling Sosing's Carinderia, Manila, PH, c) Ravi Chatkhara, Arlington, VA Best Month: February

Best Beach: Makua Beach, Oahu, Hawaii Best Breakfast: Eggs Benedict @ McKay Cottage, Bend OR / AC's Crab Eggs Benedict Best Sunset: Malecon Sea Wall, Havana Cuba Best Town: Reno, NV Best Hike(s): Conundrum Hot Springs Camp (Aspen CO) and Heliotrope Ridge camp (Bellingham, WA) with Audrie Best Book: Anthony Bourdain - A Cook's Tour

Best Camp Spot / Coldest Night of The Year: Winchester Mountain Lookout Best Skinny Dip: Atlantic Ocean off Fort Lauderdale FL  & Jackson Lake, WY Best Concert: Bob Schneider @ The Bluebird in Denver, CO

Favorite Road: H50 / The Loneliest Road in America, Nevada &  PCH 101. California Best State: Hawaii Best Nature Hug: Winchester Mountain Sunset, Bellingham WA Best Movie:  A Dog's Purpose Best Rental Car (of the 16 rented): The Red Jeep out of Portland for Mt Baker Favorite Show: Parts Unknown -Anthony Bourdain Best Shower/Bath/and Pool!: The Manila Hotel Best Coffee Shop: Weathervane, Denver CO Hardest/Worst Day of the 365: Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim Grand Canyon-  North to South, #254, Sept 11.

Best Quote: ‘the good of man is a working of the soul in the way of excellence in a complete life… for as it is not one swallow or one fine day that makes a spring, so it is not one day or a short time that makes a man blessed and happy’ ~Aristotle “If I paint a wild horse, you might not see the horse… but surely you will see the wildness!”   ― Pablo Picasso Best Song: Frightened Rabbit - The Loneliness & The Scream Best Days of the 365:  a) Dec 30 / #364 > Swim w/ Sea Turtles  b) Feb 18th / #49 > Louisville   c) May 28 / #148 - Manila Explorations  d) Mar 19 / #79 > Grandma's Funeral in Apache Junction  e)  July 24 / #205 - Havana/Finca Favorite Moments:Walk Off Grand Slam in Busch Stadium Surprise at The Brown Hotel in Louisville That massage on the beach in the Philippines Rainbow at Monument Valley Audrie wears the Drindle to GABF Tigers Opening Day with My Mom Storming The FIeld at Iowa / Kinnick Stadium Going to a ballgame with Jose and Spencer in Wrigley Total Solar Eclipse with Bill C Eating The Balut Sippin Daquiris at the El Floridita with Papa Audrie Interviews a Glacier at Mt Baker

Day 365:2 - Midnight December 31, 2017 - “NYE”

With non-stop fireworks all around us, all evening and mai tais flowing with year end cheer, we stepped outside into the lawn for a good Happy New Year in Honolulu.   Neither of us ever remember a fireworks display quite like this ever, and certainly not for NYE > those hawaiians love their fireworks.   We went back in for our special toast of Mead and Brother T to get 2018 kicked off.  A big year ahead for us -  a wedding, Africa, and who knows what all else we’ll create with the fresh slate.  We’re both ready to get it started and it felt like the whole island was celebrating alongside us.  Aloha and Shaka Shaka to end 2017 here in Oahu.

Song: Pipes and Drums -  Auld Lang Syne

Quote: “Not the bee upon the blossom, In the pride o' sunny noon; Not the little sporting fairy, All beneath the simmer moon; Not the poet, in the moment Fancy lightens in his e'e, Kens the pleasure, feels the rapture, That thy presence gi'es to me.” ― Robert Burns

December 2017

The final chapter of 2017, was certainly full and fun - the most fun of the year for sure.  Sure, there was a trip to Reno, and the fun of Christmas, and Havarti’s Birthday - but really December 2017 was all about Hawaii and the two bucket list aces that fell with it.  AC and I got rigged up with a chance to house sit/dog site in Oahu to close out the year, and we loved everything about it.  We explored and learned Hawaii, as I visited my 50th state, officially crossing that tally off.   Hawaii was for beaches, turtles, sunsets, poke, snorkeling, and big waves.  We had great sunny and warm weather to close out the year- Mele Kalikimaka - we lived it out.  Aloha.  With a full 17 days here to love it, we did everything we wanted to do and are real grateful to L&K for it.  Its the longest amount of time Ive had off work, I think maybe ever.  I roll into 2018 charged up and ready to tackle a big year ahead.  Starting tomorrow.   But for tonight! Its Mai Tai’s and togetherness as we discuss intentions and reset.  It was a great way to close it all out - a tough turbulent year for many; believe that better days are ahead.  Better days continue to be ahead; as we continue to ramble on down the road.

Best day of December: Swimming with Sea Turtles - December 30

Best Song of December: The National - Start A War

Best quote of December: “So, I must be taken as I have been made. The success is not mine, the failure is not mine, but the two together make me.” ― Charles Dickens, Great Expectations

Day 365: Sunday December 31, 2017 - “Pearl Harbor”

Across the harbor, against Ford Island, the USS Arizona entombs 900+ US Service men in quiet calm blue water; young men who hadn’t even known that they were at war.  Today was our fifth, then sixth time visiting the Monument here.  We’d had some trouble working the holiday tourist crowds to get tickets on the ferry across to visit the white landing that laid horizontal across the bow; but today we scored the 11:30am tickets, a New Years Gift on our last shot.

We first came over here on Audrie’s first day - Id been excited to visit and learn and put my own eyes on the historical place to really understand what happened here.   The bowl game football teams were here too, and so no memorial for us that day - but we did fully take in all the museums in the late afternoon and learned a lot.  It was nice doing that at the beginning - over the past two weeks we’ve gotten to know the island, and better understand the tangle of history here from 76 years ago. It came as mostly a complete surprise, flipping the script on our plans to stay out of the war as long as we could.  A different time - Ive lived a pretty blessed easy life, that Ive never have been forced with a decision to join a war like so many did after that day, December 7, 1941.  Things sure did change after that - as much as it marked the beginning of World War II for the US, it also sparked the end of something too. AC and I could only imagine what it must’ve been and felt like to live through it.

I appreciated the way that the museums here told the story of the Japanese too; how Pearl Harbor was a strategic move; part of a bigger picture for them.  As we strolled through exhibits of their propaganda, and practice/testing - it was pretty clear that the US was underestimated.  As sad and somber the memorial was this afternoon - there was a sense of pride in the greatest generation for hitting back.  As a turbulent 2017 comes to a close for our country, one strongly divided on values, let alone politics, we couldnt help but wonder if the same unified force could be mustered today; and we hoped itd be many many years before we’d ever have to find out.

The memorial itself was calm, despite teeming with tourists.  There are little oil bubbles that still leak out and its mostly all under water after they removed many of the mangled parts above the tide.  We could make out the shape of the battleship in the clear water, and read about the surviving seaman that have since returned to joined the ship after their passing, helped by NPS divers.  We visited the far end, where the tree of life reflection let in the sun on a wall of the names of those who passed.  It was shocking seeing all the names on display like that and know that they are all right below us.  I knew none of the names, and had none to look for up there - but knowing that each of them passed here - sitting at anchor, felt like a waste of talent, energy, and hope.   That they all had to go, in their way, so that we could all live in ours, provided a heavy sense of gratitude and perspective.   Most every man on the wall wouldve been much younger than us.  And while we joked of our annoyance of having to come 6 times in order to make it out here, as we stood in that room I bet they all probably appreciated our efforts, to get out here among the tourists, to pay our sincere respects and reflections for what was both lost and gained here in Pearl Harbor.

Song: The Swingfield Big Band - Moonlight Serenade

Quote: “I will write peace on your wings, and will fly all over the world” ~ Sadako Sasaki

‘The form, wherein the structure sags in the center,  but stands strong and vigorous at the ends, expresses initial defeat and ultimate victory...the overall effect is one of serenity.” ~Alfred Preis, USS Arizona Memorial Architect

Day 364: Saturday December 30, 2017 - “Christmas Honu”

Got up early for an excursion from all of the Cunningham Clan - a Christmas Present used to move a nice one to the Bucket List Boneyard.  AC had done some research and got us hooked up with a 7:15am launch with a great company from Waianae in West Oahu.  As the sun was just getting up over the mountains, our EO boat was hitting the calm waters.  

Here is some of the go pro footage from this Bucket Listing Day.

We grooved North to Makua Beach area -  also the area of the “LOST” Beach - the views were good as could be imagined, but we werent there for the sight seeing, we were here for the Dolphins!   Our great crew explained that the Dolphins were functionally sleeping as nocturnal animals, but half their brain still functions - weird!   We got the flippers on and got out into the water, and it wasnt long before our dolphin friends came up and swam with us.  Spectacular way to start the day.  We got back on the boat, and I was excited knowing what would come next and hopeful that itd work out.

We pulled into a relaxed bay with a good 30-40 feet of water and a nice reef with many bright colored fish, AND Sea Turtles.  We swam with them in that beautiful warm blue water, snorkeling away, for a good half hour or more.  Getting as close as just a few feet at one point.   A bucket lister, kicked to the boneyard, one the penultimate day of 2017.

Ive long had an affinity and kinship for Sea Turtles, resonating with what these very Green Sea Turtles stood for in the old Hawaiian lore - navigators, good luck, sovereignty,  and resilience, all themes that would tangle up together starting in 2010. That summer Id read the Old Man And The Sea for the first time, and got Papa’s take on the survivor from the time of Dinosaurs...  later, an old poet friend, prepping me from my great Alaskan adventure gave me the sage advice of “being my own navigator” using the example of the sea turtles who set out and travel up to 800 miles away before returning back to the same exact spot on the same beach to lay their eggs - - no maps, no gps, no coach - just instinct and intuition.  The seas only gift are those harsh blows.  Armed with ancient survivors resilience, and intuitive navigation, the endangered green sea turtle has long been my re-invented psyche’s spirit animal; Ive such a heart too.  These mantras and teachings and advice served me well in 2011 as the ship turned and I found myself....closing circles here, as I swam alongside one giant one with Audrie, Bucket List Boneyard #32.   Before getting back to port we’d see some whales jump and spout out in the distance to give us all something to cheer about.

We’d take a break, but later follow the guides offering of advice and return back up to the Northwest Coastline, to the Lost Beach, for some good sun bathing and more snorkeling out here on our own.  The water and sand perfect for one of our last afternoons in Hawaii.  We’d hang the hammock and blow in the wind and eat sandwiches out of our picnic.   We’d watch the sun go down into the horizon and wait for the first stars to come out around the full moon above the green valley behind us, before we’d wander our way out of the sand and back towards Honolulu.  Over a poki bowl, Audrie sharded that this was her best day of the year, and I had reason to probably agree fully with her - it was a good one and a full one.

Song: The Rascals - Groovin

Quote: “Most people were heartless about turtles because a turtle’s heart will beat for hours after it has been cut up and butchered. But the old man thought, I have such a heart too.”

“He always thought of the sea as 'la mar' which is what people call her in Spanish when they love her. Sometimes those who love her say bad things of her but they are always said as though she were a woman. Some of the younger fishermen, those who usedbuoys as floats for their lines and had motorboats, bought when the shark livers had brought much money, spoke of her as 'el mar' which is masculine.They spoke of her as a contestant or a place or even an enemy. But the old man always thought of her as feminine and as something that gave or withheld great favours, and if she did wild or wicked things it was because she could not help them. The moon affects her as it does a woman, he thought.”

Day 363: Friday December 29, 2017 - “Windward Side”

After a fourth failed attempt Pearl Harbor this morning, we rolled out to find some adventure and authentic Hawaiian food on the open road of the Windward Side of island, which today meant wet.  It was that kind of day.  

Found ourselves at the Waihole Poi Factory, which along with the  He'eia Pier General Store last night checked the box for Authentic Hawaiian Food.   Thursday night it was Ahi cakes, today it was all about the Squid Luau and the Poi.  Nice treat.  We cruised the coastline looking for a sunny spot but never found one.  Turned around and headed back to Lanikai Beach where a break in the rain provided a nice invitation to the teal water and white beach.  We watched the rain pass us and we were grateful for the little bit of blue we got and only minimal spitting rain.  We made a break for the car just in time before it really let loose.  It cant be sunny every day in Paradise....

but we werent done yet.  We jumped the Pali Highway and got back over to the other side of the island quickly where radar showed a nice sunset might be possible - over on Waikiki, I slipped into the pacific under golden sky and spitting rain and joined the crowds for a nice sunset as I floated toes up in the salt water.  Hungry from all the driving and rumbling around in the clouds, we ventured over to Hula Dog stand on recommendation from James and werent let down. Ramblers Rules of the Road, if its good enough for Tony or Guy, its good enough for me - and James led me right into a Bourdain-touched melody of Mango Relish, Poi Bun, and Jalapeno Sauce. Score.  

As rough and tumble as the day was, its a gentle reminder that it all comes together if you just keep rolling.   Bummed that we missed the ferry to the USS Arizona for a fourth time....but score some Hawaiian Food and new roads in its stead.   I edited the Scribble Map on Oahu, the last time here in 2017 with that light blue ink.   Time for a new year and a new set of adventures as we close out 2017.

Song: Bruno Mars / Damien Marley - Liquor Store Blues

Quote:  “But who wants to be foretold the weather? It is bad enough when it comes, without our having the misery of knowing about it beforehand.”  ― Jerome K. Jerome

Day 362: Thursday December 28, 2017 - “Volcanic Double Head-er”

This Post is Contributed by The Unsinkable Audrie Cunningham: 

On the island agenda today: hike.  We took in an easy going AM around the Dodds patio round table, and fueled up on an egg scramble with ham and a side of some Hawaiian Spam... Really taking in the full experience, as we pondered over how and why such a salty oddity became such a staple in the culture.  Bellies full, doggies walked, we jetted towards Diamond Head (a 150,000 year dormant and now cratered volcano) who’s blown out bowl overlooks Waikiki.  I think we expected a bit more out of this local wonder, as these two experienced rambling hikers came to encounter a touristy-literal-people-zoo among the partially paved sidewalk incline up to the summit. As annoying as tourist-saturated-slick-rock-narrow-passageways can be, we sure did get a few good chuckles over the grandmother/son duo bumbling around the path, as well as the foreign old fellow who about hocked his mucus into the back of my head while giving me every opportunity to guess at his lunch consumption as he panted down the back of my neck.  Goofy stuff.  But among the Tourist-Turkey-Show, there was also some fun tunnels through the ancient volcano, as well as a secret feeling camouflaged fort built back around 1900, both things I wasn’t expecting.  At the top, a marvelous view of DT Honolulu, the Waikiki beach front, KoKo head towering off in the distance as a taunting twin, and lots of coastline and blue Pacific stretching out forever into that fading horizon.  We hopped over the fence to escape the caged animals and walked the slick ridge out over to another secret fort rooftop that had been fashioned with a real christmas tree, fully blinged out with bulbs & sparkle wreath, even wrapped presents tucked neatly under it.  Huh, who woulda hauled that sucker up here? Dedication to the Kalikimaka Spirit that is for sure!  After our over the rails adventure we decided we had had enough of Diamond experience, and edged our way back down the hill between the grandmas in flip flops and hacking hikers.  

Once we reached the car, we decided it was time for round two, and headed straight for the straight up torture fest known as Koko Head.  A hawaiian version of Manitou Incline, this one followed an old tram trackline STRAIGHT Up in a series of rotting railroad ties.  The second and final third of the climb are about as steep as humanly possible to climb without gear.  We huffed and puffed our way to the top in about 35 minutes. Not bad.  Less time than a Manitou Climb for either of us, but I guess we had the sea level altitude on our side as well.  The top of this retired volcano was WAY more rewarding than it’s gemstone sister.  Less tourists, no guardrails - just another 360 overwhelming vista view of teal sky, blue sea, green jungle mountain peaks, and even a second Kalikimaka Tree with reindeer, santa, and more ornaments & gifts.  The best reward (other than the fact that the sweaty scramble to the top of those endless mutant stairs is over), were the two whales we immediately spotted off the tip of the coast.  Wow.  

The scramble back down was just about as challenging as the climb up... Something different than the Manitou experience which lands you on a winding trail back around to the bottom, there was no such trail down the cratered back side, so the only option is to thump your way back down the rollercoaster tracks.  

Fully salty and feeling beat, we drove around the edge of the Island in search of a beach to dip in and some Hawaiian foods to replenish.  Took a nice hammock reset in the pine tree lined Waimanalo Beach; after Jake played in the low key waives we watched the color go out of the puffy pink clouds. As the sky darkened up, we wound our way along some new roads up to He’eia Pier General Store (upon the recommendation from our Tiki bar compadre from yesterday).  Disappointed that we missed the sold out Poke Bowls, but happy in the daily special of Ahi Cakes.  YUM. Turns out this is even a Triple-D-fav...  And the search for Poke continues.  

Song: Dennis Brown - Promised Land

Quote: “Volcanoes be in Sicily And South America I judge from my Geography– Volcanoes nearer here A lava step at any time Am I inclined to climb– A Crater I may contemplate Vesuvius at Home.”  ~Emily Dickinson 

Day 361: Wednesday December 27, 2017 - “Swap Meet”

The pace here is something we’ve gotten used to - “what should we do today?”  I’ll take a day bumping around with Audrie from 10a-7p over a day in the office 1000% of the time.  We started out at the Aloha Stadium scouting the swap meet and getting some good souvenirs including an Aloha shirt, and other trinkets.  Then it was home for lunch, before setting back out for a local Rum Distillery.  The Kohana Distillers served up some fresh pressed sugar cane juice before giving us a lesson in how the rum is made from the sugar cane - very cool, and strong.  Never done that before!  We then finished our day at an authentic tiki room where zombies and mai tais, good conversation, and a sunset on the Marina finished us out for another fun filled day in Honolulu.  5 more days left here in Oahu, and starting to think about wrapping it up, as we close out 2017.

Song:  Israel Kamakawiwo'ole - Take Me Home Country Roads

Quote: “By having good memories on every place you just visit, you are building paradise in your own heart and your life.”  ― Toba Beta

Day 360: Tuesday December 26, 2017 - “Rainy in Hawaii”

The day after Christmas was a rainy one - a real big south pacific rain - and we’ll take it if it meant we got sunshine and tans for Christmas Day....   we mostly took a nice easy going day, listening to the rain fall from the bungalo before heading out on the town  to find some a) Hawaiian Pizza in Hawaii and b) a showing of The Last Jedi.   We took in the first from a place called Proof Public House, which down a wet alley, was one of the only places down in Chinatown that we could find open, and then the second we took in from the PearlRidge Mall in some comfy reclining seats.  The movie had more cheese than the pizza....and I wish I could have had more pineapple.

Song:  Elvis Presley - Blue Hawaii

Quote: We are what they grow beyond. ~Yoda

Day 359: Monday December 25, 2016 - Mele Kalikimaka 

Growing up, my Mom would play the Christmas Records throughout the season, and so I learned to love all the favorites, from Christmas Bells to Alabama Christmas, the soundtrack of Christmas is one of my very favorite parts.  But there was always one record with the most memorable music, the true soundtrack of Christmas carols - the Bing Crosby Merry Christmas Record - and somewhere between a White Christmas and Christmas in Killarney was the one about Christmas in Hawaii - the place where palm trees sway - it was probably my first reason for being aware that Hawaii was even a place.  And here all the years later, I was creating a memory of my own of having spent a Christmas Day here in the Pacific.  O tannenPalm Trees did sway for sure in the winds around the North Shore, where we’d soak in the sun and the salt, blessed to just be together this year.

The day started with a good sleep in....with no kids, there was no fuss.  We could go our own pace.  Being 5 hours behind of est, by the time I woke up and checked social media, most folks Christmas was done and I got to spy a lot of chaos pics, and moms and dads stressed about getting it all done, but how blessed it all was - none of that here!  When AC woke up, I made a special request of Eggs over Myron for Christmas.  But first, it was to give Moe and Kerra, our dogsits, their Christmas stockings; fresh treats!  Walked and celebrated, we turned our attention to a great christmas feast.  Eggs, Pineapple, Ham, Mai Tai. Check.  I opened some presents from Audrie that included a really great memorable gift of the nights stars on our first kiss from Windy Point.  Theres a night whose gifts continue to give.  I also got my Spartan winter hat which was the one thing I asked for this year - score.  Wearing it now in Honolulu as I type.   Santa also brought my some pineapple and rum - the mix probably be the thing I take away from Hawaii most of all.

With a great brunch in our tummies, we set out for Haeliwa and I had my eye on a specific beach called Turtle Beach.  No Christmas Honu for us this year, but it was a good effort.  The traffic on the North Shore road was surprising as it seemed many people had the same idea that we had of a “christmas day spent lounging on a beach” - luckily though there are many beaches up here to choose from and the Christmas Beach-goers got all spread out.  After spending some time in the sun on a beach that warned of no swimming, we ventured on up the road to find a good place in Waimea Bay.  Waimea is known for its jump rock, but the water was to rough for that today - instead we were entertained with some huge waves we got to see up close.  It wasnt long before this fish was called to go play - after eating my packed cold cut, and some baby dills, I pulled my suit up and tight and rolled out into the big breakers.  These waves were super impressive - way bigger than the biggest one I ever dared in the big lake back home.   Way over my head.  3 or 4 in a row would literally kick you back up onto the beach before you’d try again for more.  I was real pleased, when AC could help but come join after I proven it to be non-lethal.  We kicked around in the waves for as long as we could until the lifeguards announced they were clocking out, and then it all didnt seem as safe - that undertow was unbelievably strong afterall.   We hung out on the beach and waited for a nice color show of the big waves smacking up on jump rock.  When I felt like Id gotten a decent shot of that scene, we rolled out of there and back into Haleiwa, where we correctly assumed that thered be something open in the historic town.  We found an open air spot called Breakers for a local beer and cider (not so local) for a good time to connect and share stories about the day.....  our Christmas in Hawaii / Mele Kalikimaka.

And here in the silence at the end of the day, a chance at reflection - of how it all unfolds, as Audrie sleeps on my feet at the end of the couch.  Holidays serve as a benchmark, always.  In our crazy rambley life we have conversations about “where were we 2 christmas’ ago?” or “do you remember where we spent new years 2014?”  and we think about it and figure it out.   The place, the time, the feeling.  And fully relaxed and blessed with gratitude this Christmas of 2017, I can think back with clarity to the one, now 5 years ago, that was a real turner.  The one where I didnt get my fire lit - and Ma Nature kicked my ass on Christmas for coming out there alone for the third year in a row.  That day I wrote that “the days story was for me” - but it was one of me being ready to move.  I can think back to that guy alone and cold and hungry in that tent and can know with every supplicated heartbeat, that I pulled forward everything I was hoping for back on that day; that frustrated turkey would be proud of where I landed five years later.....and glad that I havent been back to that beach on Christmas since. I didnt really dream of Hawaii - thats a real blessing, but to move it all forward and to live as a verb and get this life moving - the picture thats been painted in the last 1,826 days since to bring me here, is priceless.

Song: Bing Crosby - Mele Kalikimaka

Quotes: “A book of verses underneath the bough; A flask of wine, a loaf of bread and thou;  Beside me singing in the wilderness; And wilderness is paradise now.” ― Omar Khayyám

Day 358: Sunday December 24, 2017  - “Christmas Eve”

After a lazy Sunday that involved Christmas Movies and Mai Tai’s hanging out, we ended the day with a leeward side sunset and noted the drier desertlike feel of this West facing side of the island.  Got our feet in the salt water and breathed in big drafts of Christmas air.  Next year, we’ll be married on Christmas - a good reflection of the big year ahead of us.  Nice to take it slow on this holiday where the biggest thing that had to get done for us, was finding a good spot for the color show.  We returned back to the house to make a nice dinner of a Christmas Burger, and pork chops along with our freshly carved Dole Pineapple.

Song: Us The Duo - Christmas In Paradise

Quote:  “Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful. ” ― Norman Vincent Peale

Day 357: Saturday December 23, 2017 - “Hanauma Bay”

Took advantage of a sunny day on Oahu to go snorkel at Hanauma Bay where for $7.50 a person I got to snorkel with some fish for the first time.   L&K had all the snorkel gear we’d need and with gopro in hand we slipped out into the old crater.  I got the hang of it pretty good, floating in the salt water over the coral.  Here is some video of the day.  

After fishing ourselves out of the water, we drove up the East Side of the island to find Lanikai Brewing to end the day - probably the best of the five breweries we’ve hit in Oahu.

Ive always been a fish - love being in the water, so of course I took to and loved snorkeling right off.   I could have snuck around in that reef all damn week, if possible.  Wouldve loved to see a turtle, but really enjoyed the colorful fish we did see hanging out in there and in the sunshine that we were lucky enough to have.  Beautiful day out here on the windward side.

Song: The Surfers - Here Comes Santa In A Red Canoe

Quote:  “Love is like going snorkeling... You go along looking at pretty fish and cool plants until a wave rolls you over a coral reef... then the sharks come.” ― Julie Wright

Day 356: Friday December 22, 2017 - “North Shore Siesta”

With my first full day off from work here in Hawaii, it was time to venture out and explore O’ahu - - we headed North up H2 and found the Dole Plantation - that Dole Whip, omg.  Loved it.  Oh man.   I already want more.  We got a fresh pineapple fresh and straight from Dole and continued on to the North Shore where the wind blew coming over the grassy bluffs.  With the pine trees, and expansive blue water, it almost felt like Northern Michigan as much as Northern Oahu.  Beautiful with the clouds and the sun and the green jungle mountains.  We found a quiet place in the sand all to ourselves and waited for the clouds to blow off over the mountains.  It took a bit, a nice nap helped- but finally the blue sky and sunshine warmed us up and we got the sense of paradise. I really enjoyed laying there in the North Shore sand with my beautiful partner, happily soaking it in, breathing deep and relaxing together as we wrap up this up-and-down year.

As the clouds returned, we walked over and found a great ENO spot where we could watch the surfers and the big waves.  On the way, we spotted a sea turtle, my first opportunity to see an old friend up close.  When we crawled in that hammock - it was just “oh man that feels so good” over and over. The cool breeze rocking us, my best friend on the other side and being in a special spot on the map.  Oh man that feels so good.  We’d go back to the place, and make a homemade dinner of awesome spaghetti and mai tais and enjoy our company - great way to start the real vacation here in Hawaii for the Holidays.  

Song: Nick Mulvey - Unconditional

Quote: “The warmly cool, clear, ringing, perfumed, overflowing, redundant days, were as crystal goblets of Persian sherbet, heaped up—flaked up, with rose-water snow.”  ― Herman Melville

Day 355: Thursday December 21, 2017 - “Wakiki”

After spending some time at the museums at Pearl Harbor, I took AC down to Wakiki for some sunshine and together time.   After a good walk along the beach, as far up as we could go, we circled back and found a place to sit and watch the color show with some treats fromt he ABC store.   The sun dipped down under the horizon as we spun philosophical about how wide open it was out there in the South Pacific beyond.  We then would take in another Hula show at the Surfrider, some brews at Maui Brewing Co., before heading home down the H1.

Song:  Makaha Sons of Ni'ihau - Ke Aloha

Quote: “The West Indian is not exactly hostile to change, but he is not much inclined to believe in it. This comes from a piece of wisdom that his climate of eternal summer teaches him. It is that, under all the parade of human effort and noise, today is like yesterday, and tomorrow will be like today; that existence is a wheel of recurring patterns from which no one escapes; that all anybody does in this life is live for a while and then die for good, without finding out much; and that therefore the idea is to take things easy and enjoy the passing time under the sun. The white people charging hopefully around the islands these days in the noon glare, making deals, bulldozing airstrips, hammering up hotels, laying out marinas, opening new banks, night clubs, and gift shops, are to him merely a passing plague. They have come before and gone before.” ― Herman Wouk

Day 354: Wednesday December 20, 2017 - “Aloha Beer”

Waited patiently all week, focusing on getting my work done and my steps in, until my Christmas Package would finally arrive from the mainland - tracked AC’s flight throughout the day, as she crossed the Pacific on a full united flight until 4p when it was time to rattle over to the airport and get her - now it feels like vacation in Hawaii is really starting.

I had what I believed to be an in my sleeve for her arrival - Hawai’i’s one and only Cidery right there not far from the airport would be our first stop.   Ventrued the industrial area and puddles to find Paradise Ciders - crawled in the back door to find the two guys there working hard at their craft of pineapples and mangos and apples.  They got a kick out of us - though the map app said they were only open on Weds 4-7p, as it turns out they are never really open at all.  That might explain the rough time getting in!  They shared that we were their first walk in visitors, gave us some good intel on the Honolulu Craft scene, and sent us on our way with some holiday Aloha gifts.  Shaka Shaka.

Id waited on going out for drinks until I had my partner, so while in the neighborhood we visited Aloha Beer Co (that had our cider friends on tap for AC)  while reconnecting - felt like months since we’ve last seen each other...  beers here are on the expensive side, so one pint was enough, before venturing down the street to Waikiki Brewing.   Waikiki didnt just have a porter on tap for me, turned out that they had the GABF Silver Medal winning Porter. What?!  Sign me up.  I even got a selfie with their precious medal.   Great way to spend a rainy night in Honolulu together.

Song: Ben Harper - Burn One Down

Quote: “The love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth, the earth which bore us and sustains us, the only paradise we shall ever know, the only paradise we ever need, if only we had the eyes to see.” ― Edward Abbey