Swedish Avant Garde Meets Berlin Fashion Week with Odeur
Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger, Odeur
What is the main concept behind Odeur?
The concept of Odeur is to be the non-visible brand. The traditional word-based logotype is replaced with a scent in the garments that communicates the brand. The concept and ideas behind the concept have remained intact since the start, but the brand will always be under development as we come up with new collections and projects. From the start, the idea has been that both men and women should be able to wear our garments.
Where are your products made?
We are designing them in Sweden and then we have production in Italy, Portugal, Lithuania and Turkey.
How does the fashion scene in Sweden compare with Berlin?
The fashion scene in Sweden are aware of the rest of the world I would say. People are however generally perhaps a little bit more afraid of making their statements in fashion too obvious, and therefore people in general are well dressed and aware of trends, but tend to look the same as their friends. We have worked on a long term thinking in Berlin. We have never sold out the idea of Odeur and we always carefully choose who we want to work with in order to be presented in a nice way in Berlin. To earn popularity, and perhaps even more important - to be respected - you have to be honest and true to your ideas and products.
What is the inspiration behind your collections?
The collections are always a natural continuation of Odeur. However, we always tend to put up themes for each collection to help our process of creativity. So the inspiration may vary, but you will always feel that each collection comes from Odeur.
Do you have a particular ethos?
We try to work as sustainably as possible in our choice of fabrics and in terms of shipping methods and so on. Also, we never produce more garments than what we get orders on each season. This of course makes it harder for people that really want a product to get it, as it may be sold out. But we would rather work like that than the opposite and get stuck with huge stock quantities.
Tell us a little bit about your background and personal story.
I am originally from Täfteå, a small village of around 1500 people. It's located just outside of Umeå in the northern part of Sweden. I am a graduate in Graphic Design from Berghs School of Communication in Stockholm where I nowadays also give lectures in visual identity. Today I also work with branding and create visual identities for companies and organisations. But fashion has always been a personal interest since I was a child, and that is why I created Odeur as my examination project at Berghs. It never was supposed to turn into an actual brand, but there was interest from Japan and the rest is history... But I never studied fashion design.
What are your plans for Berlin Fashion Week?
We will participate in the Temporary Showroom event and also take part in the Premium Trade Show between July 2-4.
Event details here.
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Cats & Dogs: An Interview with Ricarda Schernus
What did you do before you started blogging?
I studied. When I finished school I had basically already started the blog. I started before blogging was a big thing, with a private music blog in 2002 and had like four readers, who were always commenting which was quite nice. I went to concerts and wrote about it.
Why did you get into fashion blogging in particular?
How did you learn to sew?
My mum taught me. It’s something I’ve always done. I still sew when I can. I have a big coat I have been working on for about a year, I’d love to finish that! I would love to do more and maybe with my new job I will have more time.
So you are about to start an exciting new job. What’s the name of the agency you will be working with in Hamburg?
It’s called Powerkeks. It’s a boutique agency. They have about 20 people working in Hamburge and a couple more in Munich. So they do work all over Germany. But they are not in Berlin so I will move to Hamburg. I love them, they are great. I have been working with them for quite some time. They do a mix of advertising and PR work. It’s a mix between kinds of catalogue brands and high fashion brands. It’s pretty nice because they help some more old fashioned brands to find a younger audience and develop a new concept.
Will you continue your blog in Hamburg?
Definitely. And the agency is actually encouraging me to. I will be working with a lot of bloggers and blogger events and campaigns.
That will be a big change from your current job teaching. How did Powerkeks find you?
I’ve been teaching for three, almost four years. At some point last year the agency and I started working on some projects together. It’s very weird how these things work out. I think it’s the key to always stay open to opportunities that present themselves.
What are some of the coolest things that have happened because of your blog?
I have done some amazing things. I went to Paris with some other bloggers. We met Ellie Goulding for a private gig. She was really nice and spent time with us. I met all these cool French bloggers I’ve been a fan of. I went to London a few times for different brands and to Barcelona where I met some Formula One drivers who were there with Pepe Jeans. It wasn’t exactly my area of expertise but it was a nice trip. I love travelling and it’s great to get sponsored trips.
Do you try to get to the fashion weeks around Europe?
I do. I went to London twice. I stayed there for half a year actually. When I went to London last time I got to meet a lot of great people from different agencies etc.
And you’ll be in Berlin for Fashion Week?
Yes, I’ll be doing some stuff. I have a little plan but I’m not sure if I will make it to everything. We will have a project with 7 for All Mankind, where Jessie from We the People will come from London and we’ll walk about Berlin so I can show her around. She is a big street style blogger. We’ll also go to the Rihanna concert together which is again one of these things I’m open to.
What is the main focus of your blog?
Personal style and trying to find ways to show people how to combine big brands with small brands, as well as local brands. Putting everything together in a soup. I used to have a lot more vintage clothes but it’s hard to find in Berlin. We often have these events and photoshoots with Karin from Common Vintage. I love it. Last time I just fell in love with a red sequin dress so I bought it the next week. I like to mix vintage with modern.
Your blog photos are amazing, who do you use as your photographer?
My boyfriend. He hates it! He’s not a professional photographer. He is writing his doctorate thesis in film theory. He’s a nerd. He loves films! He has taken my photos since I moved to Berlin. Before that my sister took them for me, when we lived in Hannover. Luckily my sister now lives in Hamburg so I will have a photographer there when I move. I’m not sure she’s too keen to take them again either!
So will your boyfriend move with you to Hamburg?
No he has to stay in Berlin for one more year to finish his thesis. He could move but he has a tough schedule and has to finish in February after writing for five years. He’s been teaching at the same time at the University. He was also doing a big project with multiple Universities in Europe. We met in a town near Hannover five years ago when we were both working there.
So he’s basically been writing his thesis the whole time you’ve known him. What will life be like after he finishes?
I have no idea. I guess he’s going to be super happy. I don’t even think about it. I just hope he makes it. Otherwise they will throw him out!
What are your future plans for your blog?
I hope I can keep it up as I have been. I will see how my new job is. I want to keep going with my blog and keep it moving and changing and make sure I’m always happy with it. I think I want to put more music back into the blog and some local things. I’m sure I will discover a lot of new things in Hamburg.
Are you looking forward to your work with Social Media Week Berlin in September?
Yes! I really hope it goes well. It’s a nice concept. We will find out more soon.
Do you Instagram?
I really like some of the pictures on Instagram. I just got the new update and I don’t like the new video option. I want to go back to the old version. I use Instagram for my blog. I like to share my blog post pictures and some stuff I do. I don’t post too much but I’ll be Instagramming during Fashion Week.
What are you wearing for the photos today?
I have some friends here, they make t-shirts, tops and bags they print themselves in limited edition. The label is Saint Noir. They sell online. My bag is by Proenza Schouler and the rest is mostly Zara. I got the necklace from a friend for my birthday.
And one last question, how do you always get your hair to look so good?
My hairbrush. It’s amazing. But trust me, it’s always bad in the rain!
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Fashion Week Delights at Concept Store M
This is a rare opportunity to get up close and personal with pieces by Sofia Zharova (RU), Dina Faradzheva (RU), Studio Seven (RU), TVORTZ (UKR), Sasha Kanevski (H), IVANMAN (D), CAROCORA (D), POPOVA (D), littleshilpa (IND), 193* (A), ANJA LAUERMANN (A), LIP (F), AllegraDesigns (USA), and Monika Esser (D).
Join the designers and Concept Store M crew at the Designer Party & Art Exhibition on 6 July from 18:00 and drop in for the pop-up store during the times listed below. Also on show will be an exhibition by Berlin-based artist P.Hagn and a room installation by Indian hat maker Shilpa Chavan. If the last Concept Store M event is anything to go by, this is one you should definitely put in your fashion week diary.
POPUP-STORE
2- 5 JULY 11:00 – 19:00
6 JULY 11:00 – 22:30
7 JULY 13:00 – 20:00
MOSCOW & KIEV DESIGNERS AT POP-UP STORE
6 JULY 18:00 – 22:30
7 JULY 13:00 – 20:00
LOCATION: Concept Store M, Gipsstrasse 5, Berlin Mitte.
See the event for more details.
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NERO//NERO by EKOLOVESANIMAL
Nicola Gomiero and Majla Stasi work from a charming little studio in Lichtenberg to create their increasingly popular range of bags under the EKOLOVESANIMAL label. The care that is taken in constructing each bag extends to the supply chain. EKOLOVESANIMAL follows an ethos of using no new leather, relying mainly on production overs. In the hands of these designers, otherwise unused leather once again has the potential to become something beautiful.
Where they once sourced this from leather couches and jackets, they are now negotiating directly from leather goods manufacturers in Italy. Latest scores come from the production line of high end brands such as Balenciaga, and while the EKOLOVESANIMAL bags are also constructed of this high quality leather, the prices are much more agreeable!
The new NERO//NERO collection launched online today with a limited run of ten bags. If you’re quick, you might just be able to call one of them your own.
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Konk
Edda channels her many talents in styling, tailoring and costume design, into her passion, which is finding what looks good on people and enhances their character. Edda’s in depth knowledge of every label she stocks means she’s an expert in kitting out customers with a look they can bank on.
Since 2003, Konk has been a go-to for Berlin labels including Thone Negrón, Antiann, Nico Sutor, Isabell de Hillerin and Boessert Schorn. A lovely selection of international accessory labels including the eye-catching bags by Larissa Hadjio, means the outfit possibilities are limitless and you should plan ahead for a long visit and lots of trying things on!
Catch Larissa Hadjio and Penelope's Sphere during Berlin Fashion Week, on 4 July at Konk for a collaborative installation in store, with music and free drinks, and keep track of the bi-monthly events calendar on the facebook page.
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Elicamente
Gabriele Di Stefano, the designer of these ceramic treasures, arrived in Berlin somewhat by chance and embraced the city’s rapidly changing and adaptive character. Researching methods to make her artistic vision a reality, she developed the process now used in all her ceramic work. The materials are non-toxic and have a minimal ecological impact, something that is important to Gabriele, and it would seem, a quickly growing movement in Berlin in general.
The main concept behind Elicamente has always been the analysis of the connection between humans and nature. Gabriele draws together forms and geometries present in nature and relates them to the human presence. To accentuate this link, she creates each work by hand, from raw materials, lovingly finishing each piece with immaculate detail.
For now, the best way to get your own Elicamente brooch is via the online shop or one of Berlin’s design markets. Soon though, if the rumours are true, you might also find them in some of your favourite Berlin stores.
Post by Melissa
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Playsuit!
Playsuit from Wald, sandals from VooStore, bag from Gretchen, ring from BFN Pop Shop, necklace from Konk and sunglasses from Soto.
Full details in Views.
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Happy Shop
One of the things Jacki, and other customers appreciate most, is the presence of so many Japanese labels at Happy Shop. Owner Mischa Woeste and Creative Director Marck Windekilde have a particular fondness for Japanese design, pointing to the innovative use of fabric, unusual textures and vibrant colours as inspiration for their curation. Mischa’s own label, Smeilinener, sits well in this mix, with her attention to handcrafted details, colour, and embellishments like embroidery and crochet.
The main concept behind Happy Shop is to provide something different in the Berlin fashion scene. As a concept, this means the store is continuously evolving. Mischa and Marck seek out textures, colours and patterns you won’t find elsewhere in Berlin. Their expertise has led them to labels including Miharayasuhiro, The Inoue Brothers, Cat’s Tsumori Chisato, and local brands Thone Negrón and Mykita.
The flexible construction of the building allows them to rearrange the space for shows and events. They often host previews for their loyal customers to experience special collaborations and collection launches prior to presentation to the general public. For Happy Shop, it is all about pushing the customer experience beyond expectations and this is an area they are definitely succeeding in.
Post and image by Melissa
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It's a party of the clothes swapping kind with Common Vintage
The beauty of the idea is the freedom it gives vintage and fashion enthusiasts in refreshing and updating their wardrobes. As Karin eloquently puts it, fashion is not about always having something new, but more about having something different. So why not use what you already have to build a new wardrobe? Common Vintage aims to lessen the ecological impact of the fashion supply chain, and given the popularity of their swap parties, it seems the idea is gaining momentum.
Every couple of months fashion lovers converge, armed with items from their closets that will convert to the swapdollars they need to snatch up items in a frenzy of swapping and excited admiration. In fact, this Sunday 9 June you can get in on the action yourself at the Common Vintage Tauschparty at Badehaus Szimpla Musiksalon. New Spring wardrobe, here we come!
As for the online platform, it’s easy to get started buying, selling or swapping clothes, accessories or shoes. A tip for newbies, you might even nab items listed by fashion stylists and bloggers if you’re quick enough. A comprehensive list of Berlin’s best vintage stores have also joined the Common Vintage marketplace, meaning it really is your one stop shop for Berlin vintage. Karin is clearly one of the best dressed vintage lovers in town, with her eye constantly on the new products appearing each day. Her personal style is influenced by the 80s, so here she is, followed by some of her favourites currently online at Common Vintage...
Post by Melissa
Images courtesy of Common Vintage
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Menswear basics
All you really need are cool and comfortable shoes, with a laid back ensemble and you're set. Try this combo.
Trousers by A.D.Deertz, shoes by Herbert Schier, both from A.D.Deertz. Shirt by Stone Island from Firmament, wallet by A.S. from Concept Store M and sunglasses by Super from Soto.
See the details on Views.
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A.D.Deertz
Lovingly cobbled shoes by Herbert Schier, Howlin’ by Morrison knitted sweaters, and handcrafted leather gloves are among the treasures fulfilling the store concept, which is to provide the customer with an entire wardrobe selection. Having begun as a unisex brand, A.D.Deertz is now a menswear label focussed on classic styling, superior fabrics and wearability.
Wibke works with people she likes. It’s a simple strategy, and one that has resulted in production in Portugal, Vietnam, Mongolia, Germany, Poland and Indonesia. Traveling for months at a time to source new materials and inspiration also means Wibke has a close connection to the makers and a guiding hand when it comes to quality. She works with specialists in each type of garment rather than consolidating production with a single manufacturer.
For Wibke, owning a shop is “perfect”. She makes what she loves and sells directly to her followers. Her goal is to be independent of the mainstream fashion scene and it seems she is succeeding, also launching an online store. Having been back in Berlin just four days and with no fixed plan as to when she will be off on another adventure, it seems the nomadic lifestyle of this designer is working out just dandy.
Post and image by Melissa
Lookbook images courtesy of A.D.Deertz
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Collection of the Week by Sandra
Sandra got some serious attention on Views this week with her finds from Starstyling, VooStore, Trüffelschwein and Firmament. The rest of her collection is just as worthy...www.viewsland.com/download
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Journelles VooStore Designer Flohmarkt Wrap Up
It seemed like most of Berlin attended the Journelles VooStore Designer Flohmarkt yesterday, but for those who missed it, maybe next time you’ll think twice. As promised, VooStore was filled with well-priced, new and pre-loved designer gear, along with baked potatoes by Joris, caffeine by Companion Coffee, a delicious waffle stand and even free icecream.
Having conceived the market in a bid to clean out her own closet, Jessie Weiss teamed up with Herbert at VooStore, then invited their well-shod friends to also take up a space and share their style. The anticipation of delectable goodies from Hien Le, Karlotta Wilde, Vladimir Karaleev, Malaikaraiss, vonhey and Issever Bahri meant visitors packed the market from opening time. Jessie’s own stall was a hive of activity and I’m guessing she achieved her goal of the wardrobe cleanse.
It’s no secret Jessie loves to shop and she happily hinted this new collaboration will be one of many to come. So if you didn’t manage to nab an Acne, Henrik Biskov or Kenzo bargain this time around, it looks as though you will get another shot. And if you too have an overflowing designer wardrobe, next time you could get the chance to clear it as well. Stay tuned.
Post and images by Melissa
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VooStore
VooStore has certainly done this, inviting Berlin in for gigs, readings, coffee, curious browsing and general admiration of the space that once housed a locksmith and is now a retail mecca. The vast retail space is kitted out with vintage fleamarket finds and an enormous centrepiece table constructed from solid wood roof materials. The industrial, minimalist, yet warm feel enhances the tactile experience for customers who are encouraged to touch and try the pieces they desire, no matter the price bracket.
Brothers Kaan and Yasin Müdjeci built VooStore from the seed of an idea, with help from Creative Director Herbert Hofmann and their team of dedicated staff. More recently, baristas Shawn and Chris joined the collaboration, opening Companion Coffee in the VooStore space. Visitors will often come for the coffee alone, or to peruse the well-researched selection of magazines, books and gadgets.
You are likely to find yourself among other enthusiasts getting excited by the racks of pieces by brands like Wood Wood, Sandqvist, Henrik Biskov and Acne. Refreshingly, there is also a lovingly selected range of upcoming designer pieces and cool stuff for your house or your friends. The equally well curated online store is worth a visit, as is the Journelles VooStore Designer Flohmarkt this Sunday, 2 June.
And a bit of inside news? Keep your eyes and ears peeled for a special new VooStore, coming soon to a street near you!
Post and images by Melissa
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In Between Seasons
Top by Butterflysoulfire from Butterflysoulfire, stretch trousers by Stine Goya from Temporary Showroom, boots by My-sossiz from Happy Shop, bag by Sag+Sal from The Friendly Society Berlin and bangle from THE SHIT SHOP.
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Nico Sutor
You could say Nicole Schuster started her career at a very young age. While watching Bold and the Beautiful with her grandma and learning to stitch and knit, she created a wardrobe for her Barbie doll. She now turns cloth into clothing for real Kens and Barbies and loves every minute of it, making each piece by hand.
Born in Berlin, and raised in Wandlitz, Nicole moved to Leipzig before returning to her beloved Berlin to study fashion. She is enthusiastic in her passion for the city and her desire to stay long term. Her collections are influenced by the urban architectural geometry, the buildings, the spaces, the people and the imperfections. In her own words, Berlin is more than a city, you have to see it, to feel it.
The Friendly Society, Konk and TheNorr stock Nico Sutor products. There’s something luxurious about wearing a Nico Sutor piece. The softness of the jersey and the fall of the fabric against the skin, it’s hard not to fall in love with.
Post by Melissa
Behind the scenes and Lookbook images courtesy of Nico Sutor
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