Day Dress

c. 1837-1840

printed challis and lined with glazed cotton and linen from Great Britain

Victoria and Albert Museum

Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay, Comtesse Greffulhe (1860–1952) made this dress famous by posing in it for the photographer Nadar in 1896. The museum also possesses the photographs made at the time, in which the elegant countess opted for being photographed in back view so as to highlight the slimness of her waist: this close-fitting 'princess line' dress – there were no seams at waist level – and the sinuous lines of the lily plants accentuate the impression of tallness and slenderness.

One of the leading figures on the Paris social scene – not only for her rank and sovereign elegance, but also for her culture and intelligence – Comtesse Greffulhe was a significant source of inspiration for Marcel Proust, who used her as the model for the Duchesse de Guermantes in Remembrance of Things Past. She was also the cousin of Robert de Montesquiou, who drew on her for some of his poems, including a sonnet whose closing line Beau lis qui regardez avec vos pistils noirs ('Beautiful lilies gazing with your black pistils') doubtless refers to this dress. The bertha collar, whose original form was altered, certainly during its owner's lifetime, could be turned up to form bat's wings; a bat being Montesquiou's emblematic animal, making this a true dress-poem.

House of Worth, c. 1893-95. Red silk velvet.

“Severe corsetting falling at the natural waist, a flaring skirt, and the return of gigot sleeves constituted a fin-de-siècle extremism. The engorgement of sleeves and skirt made this extreme constriction seem even more exaggerated in the context of the bulbous shapes surrounding the ideal, hard, narrow waist. The style was maintained well into the twentieth century as a flattering stage effect by actresses such as Sarah Bernhardt. “

via The Metropolitan Museum of Art

[MALE COSPLAYER] Here's my historically accurate Grell Sutcliff! I kept the bangs and the glasses for character accuracy.

Please check my newest YouTube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uuvg1nMdFC0

Please check my shorts : https://www.youtube.com/@alexander_yoko/shorts

Revue de la Mode, 1872

Studio full body portrait of unidentified young woman in profile, holding rose, wearing ruffled Victorian dress with lace accents. Stamped on front: "Wilkinson, Detroit."

Burton Historical Collection, Detroit Public Library

Costume Design #279

For the past few months I've been in York at a school for historical costuming! It's incredibly fast-paced but I'm having such a good time. In a 4-month span we're making 3 full clothing ensembles, each from a different era (1880s womenswear, 1830s menswear, and 1970s daywear of choice).

Here is some of the progress on my womenswear look, from undergarment construction toile to the nearly finished piece. It's a polonaise style referenced from a Harper's Bazaar illustration from 1886.

Evening Ensemble

This is a glittering extravaganza for a formal ball. The neoclassical motifs of the lace are interesting, particularly the laurel wreaths. The way the black lace is applied over the velvet bands to add a different texture and lighting effect, acts as a foil to the glitter of the paillettes.

Date: 1890–95 Culture: American Medium: silk

The Met Museum

Dress

c. 1889-1892

maker: Sara Mayer & A. Morhanger

V&A Museum

1895

Victorian Satin AI Girls

A vision in blue! This 1865 gown is deep azure shot with glass beads for an extra bit of glitter.

The neckline on this is classic young Victoria, with those cap sleeves and the emphasized waist. I love the matching trim on the hem and sleeves, which really brings the whole ensemble together. Rather understated in comparison to some gowns from this era it's got a classic beauty to it.

People often ask why dresses were so big in this period. It's important to remember that fabric = wealth (and portable too!). Fabric, until fairly recently, was an ideal way to flaunt your status. Using miles and miles of cloth (see: the Rococo Period) is a societal short hand for $$$.

From the Cincinnati Art Museum.

Documenting one of my projects here!

Im taking an anthropology class called Magic, Witchcraft, and Religion, and our final proj is to present any topic relating to the class in any medium. My topic is Victorian/Edwardian mourning rituals and customs. I chose to recreate an Edwardian (c. 1905-ish) half mourning dress!!

So far, ive went through several rounds of designing and 0 mockups bc i dont have time for that. Im recreating everything using only methods that would have been available at the time. I currently own 2 antique sewing machines from 1911: one hand crank and one treadle. A lot of this project will likely be done by hand because i just enjoy it :)

I'm using a cotton lawn, which, according to Victorian mourning guides, would not have likely been used because the dyed might bleed onto the skin, but I live in a very hot area and will *absolutely not* be wearing wool or silk in 95F weather. The sash is (regrettably) poly taffeta because i dont have the money for silk. Im using snaps and a few vintage buttons for the closures.

Above are pics of some sketches, a blouse fitting, and the belt/sash ive draped. Ive seen similar sashes on lingerie/summer dresses and thought it might be fitting. Taffetta probably wouldve been used towards the end of half mourning according to etiquette books, but ive found extant examples that suggest otherwise. I also found that etiquette rules were a bit more relaxed in Edwardian times compared to Victorian.

I have the skirt and blouse placketts cut out and i need to attatch them. I might add some lace to the cuffs but idk yet. I kinda like the simple short cuffs but a lot of 1905-6 dresses ive seen have large ruffles at the sleeve. I dont really want to make ruffles but they do look cool. I also have a chemise, bustle pad, corset, and petticoat done but i felt weird posting a picture in (Edwardian) underwear, even if it covers much more than our modern underwear.

I will be updating this page and plan to present this project in video format on youtube, ill post a link here once I finish!

Date: 4/19/2024

Journal des Demoiselles, 1883

Should I do it my friend?

Should and can... not the question. ZHE QUESTION IS VHY VOULD YOU NOT MIEN FREUND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tldr: yes.