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#regency men's fashion
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Some photos of my Regency-Era Magneto cosplay......
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Chag Purim Sameach!
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blueskittlesart · 2 months
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link & zelda regency era fashion please i’m on my hands and knees begging
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this might be the best ask ive ever recieved
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rowzien · 5 months
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I spent quite a long time on this tailcoat and have gotten very busy without time to work on other projects, so I will dedicate a post to it.
Firstly big thank you to @vinceaddams for his deaths head button video which I used to make mine as well as links for making buckram!
Deaths head buttons weren’t really as popular any more by the regency period, but they still had Thread wrapped buttons for coats as well as one vest example I found for.
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I made the buckram from scratch using linen I got at a second hand store and glue.
Decorative interior stitching was based directly off an 1830s tailcoat at the MET.
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I used silk thread for all of the visible stitches, and it was like butter to hand-sew with. 100m/110 yds was more than enough for that as well.
(You can see the mutton chops I did :] )
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flowertab · 13 days
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LayClaire Week Day 4: AU
“How ardently I admire and love you…”
I’m a big fan of Jane Austen and the Regency Era, so I jumped at the chance to combine it with my favorite franchise! (it looks so natural on Layton, hehe)
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madseance · 7 months
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I keep seeing people suggest Crowley's presentation in 1827 was feminine, and listen—headcanon what you want, I'm not your mom. But the justification is that he's supposedly dressed in feminine, as opposed to masculine, clothing? He isn't. You're just looking at Regency fashion with 21st-century eyes.
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Both Aziraphale and Crowley are exemplaries of well-dressed gentlemen of the early 19th century, just in different styles.
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On the left, a many-caped greatcoat like the one Aziraphale is wearing; on the right, a coat with puffed sleeves and a narrow waist like the one Crowley is wearing. (Both images seem to originate from Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1811 and 1826, respectively.)
I also saw something about Crowley's fob watch actually being a chatelaine?
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Again, I have to disagree. What Crowley's wearing just looks like a watch chain, which both men and women wore. What you can see is the chain and a charm at the end; the watch itself is tucked into a pocket (same as with Aziraphale's).
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Watch chain (left; another plate from Journal des Dames et des Modes) vs. chatelaine (right, from here).
While a chatelaine could possibly refer to a decorative watch chain, the chatelaines specifically associated with women are the accessories worn by female heads of household or housekeepers (hence the name) to hold keys and other useful items. They could get quite elaborate. Crowley's doesn't look particularly like a chatelaine more than it looks like a watch chain, to me.
To sum up, there's not really anything I can see about Crowley's fashion choices in 1827 that specifically says "female presenting"; it all fits in with men's fashion of the time. You can headcanon whatever you want! But this particular era isn't one in which Crowley's wardrobe and styling definitively reads as feminine.
Note for a couple people with poor reading comprehension: TERFs are not welcome on this post. Fuck off.
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dresshistorynerd · 9 months
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https://www.tumblr.com/thebaconsandwichofregret/189924928150/comepraisetheinfanta-thebaconsandwichofregret
whenever i see people rbing the op without the additions i die a little inside so i thought you should have a go at debunking it 🫠
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So these are the tweets from the post. I had blissfully not come across it before. This is one of the weirdest takes I have ever seen. It's amazing to see these fashion history takes that are so boldly and confidently wrong and inaccurate.
It's honestly hilariously ignorant to think that a massive cultural and societal shift that took couple of centuries, was all because one guy. It's so reductive and even goes to the great man territory to pick one person to blame for something like this that really had much more broad and complex reasons than "a guy did it". It's stressed in this tread that Beau Brummell was not noble or a gentile and "just some guy", so how would he singlehandedly change the fashions and concept of masculinity of the whole western world? He was a London socialite, it's not like most of his contemporaries in continential Europe knew about him. Like maybe the French, but does anyone really believe people in Eastern-Europe or Nordic countries or in the Mediterranean knew about? Not to mention places like US. Yet everyone dressed like that in his lifetime, so how could his influence reach so far so quickly? Not even kings and queens could so directly and massively shift the fashions. So in the face of it the whole claim is ridiculous, but it's also full of inaccuracies.
The shift from Rococo fashion to regency fashion was extremely stark and quick in both men and women's fashion, but it happened during 1780s and 1790s, before Beau Brummell became a well known figure in the London society (he was born in 1778 and became well-known in the society after his military career, during which he befriended the Prince of Wales, around the end of 1790s). Here's first an example from 1780s and then from 1793-94 and 1797.
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The one from 1780s still has some rococo elements like the wig, but it's already much more toned down and the coat is already turning from frock coat to a tail coat. It's an example of the more casual men's countryside dress from the period. The court dress was still quite elaborate, though also toned down from the 1770s. But there's a big shift when it comes to the examples from 1790s. They are unmistakably Regency fashion. All of these example are French too. I'm sure these people had no idea and gained no influence from an unknown middle class English officer. So what did actually happen? Well, I'm pretty sure the French Revolution in 1789 had a little bigger impact on the European society and fashion than Beau Brummell.
I'm not going to go too deep into this, since I'm working on an in depth post about the masculinity and fashion in the modern era and I go into detail about how the French Revolution had a massive part in shaping them. But the short version is that the French revolutionaries rejected the elaborate fashions of the Rococo French nobility (in both men and women's fashion) as those over the top fashions stood as symbols of the excess wealth of the nobility and the extreme wealth gap between then and the rest of the people. This is also why the high fashion was getting toned down thorough the 1780s before the Revolution. The anger towards the ruling class was mounting at the time and it encouraged the nobility to down down and try to act a little more palatable in their aesthetics to maybe appease the angry people without doing any actual change to address the wealth gap and the centralized power.
The revolutionaries looked for ideal masculinity and femininity elsewhere then. To contrast themselves against the ruling class, they looked to the antiquity and it's simplicity as well as the peasantry and the country gentleman fashion. Romanticism was the driving force behind the artistic expression of the Revolution. It weaved nationalism to the class struggle that was at the core of the revolutionary movement. So the Revolution was not just the working class and peasantry against the ruling class, but the French People against the nobility. This is when physical labour, militarism, dominance and leadership, really became intrinsically attached to masculinity, as the ideal man of the revolutionaries was a working peasant, who with military power took the the power back to the people from the nobility. The democracy would not last long, but it's not a mistake that only men could vote under the new democracy after the Revolution was won. It's also not a mistake that even when the post-Revolution France eventually abolished slavery (but not without some push-back first and a couple of slave revolts to force their hands) they did not give most people of color rights to vote. Since colonialism whiteness had become intrinsic part of masculinity and femininity, which was part of the dehumanization of everyone else, and the new form of masculinity and femininity born out of the Revolution did not contest that. In fact the Enlightenment philosophy that had laid the ground work for the Revolution and the Romantic movement and it's nationalism that were driving force in it, in no way contested colonialism or it's white supremacy. Which is why the power in the new democracy went to the (mostly) white men.
These elements were in the new men's fashion too. Nationalism, the idealization of militarism and antiquity seen as the origins of democracy made it and especially Antique Rome perfect inspiration for the Revolutionary France. The short hairstyle was inspired from the Roman fashion seen in statues. The fashionable tail coat was influenced by military uniforms and the short jackets of the working class. The long trousers also came from working class dress. Here's examples of the revolutionary fashion from first 1792 and then around 1790.
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To be very clear, the revolutionaries were not a single entity with single ideology. They were collection of movements, who were united in their shared desire to overthrow the ruling class and establish some sort of democracy. But inside the movement were much more radical movements than what eventually ended in power after the French nobility. Socialists, abolitionists, feminists, slaves and others also fought for the Revolution and there was a lot of internal struggle too. Romantic movement was also very varied and contained extremely nationalistic elements as well as outright socialist elements.
Beyond the direct and stark effect the French Revolution had in especially France, but everywhere in the western world, the 18th century fashion was never as extreme as in France. If you put the most elaborate French court fashions of mid 1700s and Beau Brummell's style next to each other the difference is certainly massive, but fashion for men as well as women was always much more restrained and somber in England. Here's an English example from 1755-65 and for comparison a French example from 1755.
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In fact as the tensions were rising in France the upper class begun to adopt the more toned down English styles. After the Revolution the new Republican styles would spread to Britain too. In Britain though Romanticism had a more pronounced effect as it stayed firmly monarchist. Therefore the English fashion was especially influenced by the styles worn by country side gentlemen.
There's another claim in the thread that fully fails to understand the broad implications of fashion and societal gender and how these things change and evolve. It's the claim that Beau Brummell created the modern men's suit and he's the reason the suit has long trousers. We already went through how long trousers got into men's fashion and it was not him. But the writer is not wrong in saying that Beau Brummell's outfit in this picture is a direct ancestor of modern men's suit. It is.
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But you know what else is a direct ancestor of men's suit? This.
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The modern three piece suit has it roots as far as in late 17th century. Before suit men wore doublets, which style resembled women's fashion much closer than the suits would after it (as seen in these examples from 1630s). However the distinction between men and women's fashion had started to grow much earlier. A big shift that happened during the 16th century was that men stopped wearing skirts. Men and women wore the same garments for centuries before that. The styles and silhouettes for men and women had some differences (the skirts were often shorter for men for example) but they were parallel to each other. I wrote a whole very long post about how skirts stopped being acceptable for men. In it I write about how the shift in men's fashion was part of the large shift from feudalism to colonialism and capitalism, that needed a new hierarchy to justify the new system after the previous divinely justified feudal hierarchy was no longer an option. The new hierarchy was white supremacist patriarchy and therefore needed a clearer distinction between white men and white woman, that would also help distinct white people from the racialised people.
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But such fundamental changes in the societal structure and culture are long processes. The process was continuing in the latter half of the 17th century, when Orientalism first became very popular. Orientalism is the dehumanization and fetishization of Asia and North-Africa, and it was born as the European colonial project was properly getting going in Asia. Colonialism in Asia and North-Africa took a little different form. I suspect it was because it was not that long ago, when Europeans had felt inferior to many of the peoples and empires in Asia and North-Africa, which they had always had much closer relationships with than the rest of Africa and certainly the Americas. I think that's why Orientalism is such a mix of coveting Asian and North-African cultures and bodies in a very fetishistic ways, while also demeaning and diminishing them. Nevertheless, Orientalism had a huge impact on European fashion in late 17th century. Both the way men and women's clothing was made after that to this day was strongly impacted by Orientalism. The coat and waistcoat combination was an adaptation of Turkish fashion. The three piece suit became popular in 1670s and fully took over men's fashion in 1680s (an example from 1687). The cravat was also adopted around the same time to men's wear from a light cavalry mercenary army in the Habsburgian Empire known as the Croats or Cravats. They were mainly Croatian, which to Western European was almost "Oriental" due to their proximity to Asia and Turkey in particular, and therefore the popularization of cravats as a fashion item was also influenced by Orientalism.
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The Regency three piece suit also has all the same elements as the suit 150 years earlier, the individual pieces had just evolved into different different cuts. The three piece suit in fact still has the same elements to this day, they have just kept evolving.
My point is not to in any way deny Beau Brummell's influence on Regency fashion. He was the most influential fashion icon for men in his era after all. I hope this just made it very clear that these bigger changes are not about individual people but much larger shifts and movements in society and culture. His actual influence was popularizing some of the English countryside styles mentioned before in the fashionable London society, making extremely elaborate cravats into the fashionable items of the day and becoming the image of the English dandy.
The picture of him above shows him the typical English countryside suit with dark blue tail coat, white cravat and light pantaloons with polished hessian boots. He helped to make the outfit and pantaloons in general fashionable. Breeches would stay as the formal leg wear for some a decade still, till young fashionable men would start to use black or gray pantaloons in formal events too. Pantaloons were very fitted, but the trousers, that were fashionably quite narrow at the time, but looser, really came into the casual fashion in 1810s. As seen before their roots come from the working class fashion that was first popularized in the French Revolution, but they had been very informal and while they were still not quite as formal to be able to use in a formal event, they became acceptable in more casual events. Beau Brummell is credited for inventing or at least popularizing pants that have strap to go under the foot in order to keep them straight. Here's first a painting from of a gentleman in a very country style emphasized by the setting. Then a illustration from 1810 of a full formal dress with breeches and a fashion plate from 1817 of day wear with trousers.
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The thread also misses what dandy really was. Dandy was the embodiment of the middle class social mobility of the modern era. He was the "self-made man", the fashionable middle class and the new celebrity of a post-feudal era. He dressed in refined fashionable countryside middle class clothing and was celebrated for his style and refinement, not for his birth. Ironically though, there was a distinct reactionary quality to the Regency dandy. After all dandy did not embody social equality, but mobility. He was the ideal man of the capitalist hierarchy. A bit of dilemma for the dandy was that being extremely fashionable was central to the dandy, but after the French revolution being too fashionable and too concerned about looks had been associated with the aristocracy and was now therefore unmanly. Which is why dandy quickly came to be seen as effeminate. There is a lot of satiric cartoons from the time period that make fun of dandies and their preoccupation with fashion and looks. Here's couple from around 1810s.
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In conclusion it's pretty ridiculous to say modern men's fashion was all created by one guy. The real reason why men's formal suit (and to be clear more colorful and elaborate styles have come and gone from men's informal fashion during that time) has been what it is for more than hundred years is because much bigger changes, like capitalism, colonialism, Orientalism and white supremacist patriarchy.
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clove-pinks · 2 years
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I wish people would focus less energy on weird 19th century stuff that has been widely debunked, like the idea that Victorian women constantly fainted, and START focusing energy on weird 19th century stuff that definitely DID happen, such as the many decades that men carried around decorative canes for Fashion purposes. The silly little stick era, if you will—"He carried a little stick of no earthly use", Albert Smith, The Natural History of the Gent.
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1832 fashion plate (with bonus hairdo), and you can see that the gentleman at left isn't even touching the ground with his stick, he's just carrying it. There are countless fashion plates like this, and even when the stick is the correct length, it often looks flimsy and isn't a true mobility aid.
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Somehow, even the child has acquired a little stick in this 1867 fashion plate. The man next to him has his stick tucked under his arm, which seems to be a typical way of carrying it, or you could even tuck it into your coat pockets.
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1840s dork has never heard of coat check, idk.
Two fashionable fellows in Punch magazine, 1842, just carrying their sticks.
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I'm throwing some pictures together on my lunch break so this has an 1830s/1840s slant, but you will see the little sticks from the dawn of the 19th century to the end: able-bodied men really chose to be encumbered with these for no good reason. Sometimes they're topped with tassels, or a quizzing-glass!
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shewhoworshipscarlin · 5 months
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Man's linen shirt, 1800-25.
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sartorialadventure · 1 year
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Edit: have been informed the source is here!
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daguerreotyping · 10 months
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Aquatint of well-heeled bad boys Tom & Bob "Catching a Charley Napping" from Real Life in London; or, the Rambles of Bob Tallyho, Esq. and his Cousin the Hon. Tom Dashall &c. through the Metropolis; Exhibiting a Living Picture of Fashionable Characters, Manners, and Amusements in High and Low Life by an Amateur, illustrated by by Messrs Heath, Aiken, Dighton, Brooke, Rowlandson, &c.
This was a knockoff publication plagiarizing characters from the hugely popular Life in London; or, The Day and Night Scenes of Jerry Hawthorn, Esq., and his elegant friend, Corinthian Tom, accompanied by Bob Logic, the Oxonian, in their Rambles and Sprees through the Metropolis by Pierce Egan, illustrated by George and Robert Cruikshank, 1821.
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See above the frontispiece from the 1823 edition of Egan's Life in London and the corresponding Finish to the Adventures of Tom, Jerry, and Logic, 1871 edition (originally published 1829). And check out the cheery row of dancing grim reaper charleys—night watchmen—at the bottom, having got the last laugh after all.
I could not find Life in London available to read online, but Gutenberg has Real Life in London (1905 edition, confusingly attributed to both Egan and the wonderfully named John Badcock—though Gutenberg notes that the actual authorship is uncertain).
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I leave you with "Jerry's admiration of Tom in an 'Assault' with Mr. O'Shaunessy, at the Rooms in St James's St."
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fashion-plates · 1 year
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La Mode, 1830
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My Spring-Summer ensemble!!
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odoraful · 2 months
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SORRY IF IM BEING A BOTHER but I also saw one of your tags on another ask you answered about a regency-era zayne…I just wanna say HELL YEAH. I’d KILL to see that 🗣️‼️🔥
OMG NOO it's not a bother at all!! my inbox is completely at your disposal 💗 and YESSS zayne as a physician in the regency era ??? oh the wheels in my brain are turning at TOP SPEED heheh i'm so grateful for your enthusiasm 🙏
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rowzien · 3 months
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A happy new year to all!
New breeches and a new waistcoat I made. The waistcoat I’m particularly proud of as I drafted it from an original 1820s tailoring book. The fabric is a reproduction 1840-1860 print. I’m still tweaking how I construct breeches.
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eddapoetic · 5 months
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- - foile pour un @lostsovl
England, Byrne Estate, in the aftermath of the Treaty of Paris, 1814
An amicable bustle of light conversation mingles with the early summer air, laying comfortably mild across an otherwise lukewarm soiree; It is a modest congregation of gentlefolk that has come to dawdle in the gardens of the good Captain's estate, ladies in arms and men of the states, men of war, gathered far and not so far at all to partake in the clandestine performance of aristocratic repertoire. To show face, so to speak, as contracturally obligated by their standing in light of recently wordly events which might merit such a perfectly muted display of tactful camraderie.
It's almost impressive how dutifully they perform the charade of civility, expressions downright cordial, regardless of which sir or dame might otherwise stand to be associated with whom amongst their neighbour at any other time of day--
Or night, at the risk of tempting indiscretion. But that is to digress. What stands to matter is that the neatly trimmed lawn is host to many fine people on this particular eve, milling about to the strum of vaguely convivial chords and partaking in the finest selection of quaint appetizers His Majesty the King's money could afford. What stands to matter is the arrangement of finely laid out tables, neatly framing the grassy borders at the far brickwall, offering their bounties of fruits and tarts and fruity tarts with, at their center, a truly impressive layered trifle.
What stands to matter is that that's the one she goes through, first.
A cacophany of shattered glass and ungraceful clatters heralds it. The aftermath of one sly figure's improvised fence vault rings a discordant note throughout the merry gathering she interrupts, affronted gasps and startled squeaks taking the attendants like a wave as their baffled gazes tear from each other to fall upon her character - and she must look quite the image indeed, gaudy in her swallowpaint tailcoat and dandelion undershirt, the distinguished rosy-pink pantalons a sight to catch the eye even before she'd bepeckled herself with the benobled's early-dinner desserts. And stunned as they be, she doesn't stop at simply thus.
She breaks into a dash across the lawn, swift, steady, footing hardly lost from the fall and weaving through the crowds with little but quick nudges and darts of 'Pardon Me's'. At the heel of her wake, two constables struggle to make it over the wall in pursuit, clumsy in their scrabble of alarmed shouts whilst a third appears further down the lane - having evidently opted to spare himself the dignity and go through the gates, instead. He sprints whilst his companions drop onto what remains of already turned over tables and tarts, attendants splitting aside from his beeline to allow him to catch, to reach--
His target, however, is not yet lost for diversions.
"Spare a hand, lass?" The swallowtailed interloper ducks, for lack of a better word, into the brace of a singled-out lady ahead, dark-haired, fair-figured and keen eyed all at a gaze; A flash, for a blink, strikes her of something poignat she can't quite put her tongue to, through she does not wait to find the words, nor does she wait for a response before her arm shoots around the woman's waist and her hand finds a clasp in hers. With a smile and a mischievous glint, she spins them both aback - letting go to twirl the other straight into the arms of the constable behind, who promptly stumbles in reach for propriety. That'd be her cue to leave.
"Much appreciated. Enchanté--!"
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onlytiktoks · 3 months
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