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Cat Scratching Content & Panel Scratchers
Putin Kitty Scratching Content - You have a cat that you like and you like everything Russian? It comes with sisal posts offering your cat with a great place to exercise his scratching capabilities, along with platforms, cubbyholes, and plush-covered surfaces cat condo for large cats for him to explore. In our research, the Pioneer Family pet SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post is the best of the bunch because it supplies the ideal mixture of functionality and durability without detracting out of your home décor. Scratching is done for three reasons: for conditioning the claws, stretching out, and for marking scent. This way the scratching post will have your aroma and it will be easier for your kitty cat trees for large cats to get excited about it. Manhandling their paws is usually a no-no in the eyes of most pet cats and can likely lead to avoidance of the scratching post. Scratching surfaces is a standard and healthy activity for felines. I wanted the post to be a few inches greater than the scratching area, so I made a 41″ high post with carpet from underneath up to 22″, sisal rope from 22″ to 37″, then more carpet from 37″ best cat tree for large cats to the very best at 41″. Provide multiple content in your kitty's favorite areas. In other words, a short scratching post will be ignored for the nice tall table leg. Sisal fabric is heavy-duty and is a superb surface for scratching. As long as there are kitty posts available and also you are there to say Good son,” he'll utilize them several cat tower for large cats times a day-for the others of his life. We know these scratching posts can be expensive, but since this is a staple item for your feline friend, AnimalWised want to instruct you steps to make a homemade scratching post for pet cats. Having more than just one cat scratching post is a good idea especially if your cat hangs out in various rooms regularly. You will want her to be confronted with the choice between choosing the couch or choosing the scratching post so she can determine on her best cat tree for large cats own that the scratching post is a much better option. This platinum greyish cat scratching post has natural sisal fibers wrapped around it plus a broad and stable base. When you've covered about 5 in . up the post, cut the excess rope off, staple the loose end to the post and change to another lightest color. You don't have to spend a lot money using one, so long cat tower for large cats as the material is good for scratching plus they get to play just a little. In case your kitty is scratching the medial side of your sofa, she may like something dense like sisal. Now, you may make a proper, professional looking tree relatively easily by following some kitty tree programs. Benefits: This scratching post is modern and manufactured from natural materials. Ultimate Scratching Post : It's all in the name - this is best cat tree for large cats the ultimate scratching post. Scratchers have to be in the available rooms in which the felines spend a lot of time. Also, simply watching your kitty's behaviors can help you figure out the best places to put your scratching posts. Avoid carpeted scratching articles as this encourages your kitty to scrape your floor carpet as well. When investing in a tree type scratching post, make sure the trunk is guaranteed cat condo for large cats to the bottom, especially if the scratching post has several level as your cat may reject the scratching post if it generally does not feel stable whilst perched using one of the post's floors. Sturdy and high enough to allow cat a complete stretch out when scratching. But scratch content can be fun to make and can be personalized to fit your décor. Some cats choose playing on carpet and can stop playing when the toy goes cat trees for large cats to a hard floor. If http://www.best-cat-scratching-posts.com needs a little enticing to make use of the new scratching post, there are many tried-and-true methods that will entice them to it. The post is wrapped in over 60 metres of sisal rope, and has a plush delicious chocolate coloured material top and bottom. If your kitty spends time outdoors, he might choose an all natural timber log or cat tree that looks like a real tree hardwood protected post to scratch inside. However, with constant encouragement, even older felines can learn not to scuff furniture. You can train cats to use a scratching post and you can trim their fingernails.
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paulcleonard · 7 years
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Is there room in your life for a seven-foot lizard?
If the answer is “No”, then don’t get an iguana.
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  What many potential iguana keepers don’t realize is their handful of a baby iguana is destined to grow into something approaching a 20lb dinosaur lookalike. The only reason an iguana wouldn’t reach this size is if they aren’t properly cared for and die young. Since neglecting an iguana is a not an option, this means that pint-sized hatchling soon needs their own room – literally!
  Iguana Basic Biology
An adult Iguana measures 5 – 7 ft. (the females are shorter) from nose to tail tip, and weigh in at around 20 lbs. They can also live up to 20 years and are therefore a considered commitment for any pet parent.
Your scaly-friend needs plenty of space, such as an enclosure measuring 12 by 6 by 6 feet. Plus they are cold-blooded and require the area to be heated (which can work out expensive in winter) and UV lighting for strong bones.
As for food, iguanas are vegetarian and require a diet of fresh fruit and veg. This should be sprinkled with calcium powder to reduce the risk of metabolic bone disease.
OK, you have a spare room and embrace the prospect of a large scaly friend. Are iguanas easy to care for? Yes and no.
  Iguana Temperament and Handling
Apart from those amazing prehistoric looks, iguanas are known for their engaging personalities. When handled from a youngster, they grow to know their carer and seek out their company. Iguanas even have a reputation for following their pet parent around like a dog.
However, friendly iguanas don’t happen by chance, and you do need to start handling them from a young age. A lot like socializing a puppy, regular one-to-one time with people helps the baby iguana get used to people and enjoy their company. The end result is a friendly reptile that doesn’t bite (which is important as an iguana bite can do real damage.)
A final factor to consider when handling an iguana is the risk of salmonellosis. Like many reptiles, iguanas may carry the salmonella bug. The reptile isn’t unwell but excretes the bacteria which then pose a risk to people. Good hygiene is essential, which includes washing your hands after contact with the iguana. If those living with you have weak immune systems (such as children, the elderly, or that on chemotherapy) then an iguana is best avoided as a pet.
  Home Sweet Home
Iguanas grow big but start out small, and a small reptile in a large enclosure is liable not to find their food. Therefore, be prepared to provide a smaller space for junior and expand the enclosure as they grow.
Starting out a 20 gallon aquarium is fine for a young iguana up to 18-inches in length. But know that same iguana as an adult needs a space that’s at least twice their length (nose to tail tip) and as wide as the lizard is long. And this is the minimum requirement.
Remember, iguana are arboreal (tree dwelling) and also need vertical space, hence the advice for an enclosure 12 x 6 x 6 foot. In reality, this is the size of a large cupboard or small bedroom, so make sure you have enough space.
The choice of floor covering is controversial. Small iguana has a habit of eating things they shouldn’t so be careful their ‘carpet’ if swallowed won’t cause a bowel blockage. Popular options include newspaper, butchers’ paper, or paper towels. Alternatively invest in some reptile carpet, which is thickly woven and difficult to tear apart. Have at least two pieces, so one is in use whilst the other is in the wash. Some people come up with other solutions such as AstroTurf, linoleum, or carpet tiles.
And last but not least, make sure the enclosure provides for the iguanas need to climb. Criss cross the cage it with sturdy branches, so your scaly friend can get watch from on high.
  Crucial Climate Control
A cold iguana is soon a sick iguana. To stay well an iguana needs constant heat, a basking spot, and UV lights. Work on providing a background temperature of 80 – 88 F during the day and 75 – 80 F at night (warmer for youngsters). In addition they need a basking spot, which is a hotspot they can sit under to warm up, of around 120 F.
UVB lighting is important for calcium metabolism and strong bones. Given the size of an iguana you may need two UVB tubes to cover the length of their body. These lights need replacing every six months, as the amount of UV they push out drops off dramatically after this time.
Oh, and know they like to have a distinct day and night photoperiod. This means the indoor iguana needs their lights turning out when it goes dark outside, and a curtain dropped over the front of the enclosure so they can get their beauty sleep.
  All Important Humidity and Water
The popular green iguana comes from the rainforests of South America, which are warm and humid. To mimic this, the iguana’s enclosure need to reach a sticky 80% humidity. This can be tricky, and most keepers opt for a combo of a large water bowl to provide the surface area for evaporation, and misting the lizard several times a day.
Provide two water sources. A bowl with a large surface area (for increased water evaporation and higher humidity) and a smaller bowl for drinking from. This said, don’t worry if you don’t see the iguana drink, they get most of their moisture from food, but need the option to drink regardless.
Also, be aware that iguana are fond of bathing and defecating in water, so expect to freshen both water bowls regularly.
  Feeding an Iguana
These gentle giants are vegetarian. Some keepers make the mistake of thinking their large size means they’ll benefit from a supplement of cat food. But this is disastrous, because meat-based foods are too high in protein and strain the iguana’s kidney, leading to renal failure.
For the ideal iguana diet think raw vegetables, with fruit as a once a week treat. Those best suited to iguanas include collard greens, dandelions, turnip greens, green beans, and yellow squash.
In addition there are commercial foods available from reputable reptile companies such as Zoo Med and Rep-Cal. Just be sure to read the ingredients and if they include animal protein put the box back on the shelf. Adult iguanas cope better than juveniles with dry diets; even then it is wise to dampen the food. This is because iguanas get most of the water from their food, and too much dry food may lead to dehydration.
Calcium is important for a healthy iguana. However, some veggies contain phytates and oxalates which interfere with the digestion of calcium. Carefully research any new food you give the iguana, and only give limited amounts of veg such as spinach, carrot tops, and rhubarb which rob the body of calcium. A good safety measure is to sprinkle calcium powder on the iguana’s daily salad as a precaution.
Also, be aware of a quirk of juvenile iguanas is that they can’t chew their food, so be sure to cut it up. If they swallow a piece that is too big it could cause a serious blockage, which is easily avoided by offering diced veg.
  Iguana Health Problems
Poor care is the biggest cause of premature death in iguanas. Sadly, the most common health problems are also man-made.
Burns:
Iguana mainly sense heat through the parietal eye in their head. When a heat source, such as a hot rock, is provided the iguana’s belly doesn’t register the heat. Many an iguana has suffered serious burns from sleeping on a heat mat that was too hot.
Kidney Problems:
Foods containing animal protein, such as insects or pet foods, put a huge strain on the iguana kidney. They simply aren’t designed to process and detox all these rich protein sources, which leads to kidney damage and renal failure.
Metabolic Bone Disease:
Be sure to hit that sweet spot of feeding healthy veggies loaded with calcium, and strong UVB lighting. If either of these factors is out of kilter, the result is poor calcium metabolism, weak bones, and fractures.
  And finally,
The iguana is truly a magnificent animal but to care properly for such a creature takes commitment, attention to detail, and space. Much as you desire to keep one of these beautiful reptiles, put their best interests first. If you can’t meet all their requirements stretching 20 years into the future, then it’s best to admire them from afar.
The post Iguana Care appeared first on Love That Pet.
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playpteepoh-blog · 7 years
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vincentbnaughton · 7 years
Text
How to Attract Birds to Your Yard (Hint: Don't Just Wing It)
It takes more than a bird feeder to attract a colorful variety of songbirds to your backyard. Think of your feeder as a drive-thru fast-food joint in an unsafe neighborhood: The birds will stop to eat, but they won’t stick around for very long. They want to get home to their comfy nest in an exclusive deciduous broadleaf community, where they can get fancier food anyway.
If you want to see more than bird backsides at a millet buffet, you need to give them all the luxuries they’ve come to expect.
Create a habitat
Birds prefer townhomes to single-level ranch houses. They need perches for preening, thickets for hiding, branches for bickering, wide-open spaces for showing off, and, eventually, a tree cavity where they can nest and paint their nursery a nice robin’s-egg blue.
Give them privacy by planting walls of foliage. Native shrubs, small trees, and even tall grasses and perennials offer the versatility they need to make a quick escape.
Create a ceiling of tall deciduous and evergreen trees at the back of your property, and plant small understory trees between them and your house. Selectively prune lower limbs of shrubs and small trees so you can easily see perching birds from your window. They’ll appreciate the perch, and you’ll appreciate the camera angle.
Grow your own birdseed
Money doesn’t grow on trees, but, conveniently enough, birdseed does! It also grows on shrubs, perennials, grasses, annuals, and anything else that qualifies as a plant.
To grow the seed that your local bird species prefer, however, choose the native plants that they’d otherwise find in the wild. Native plants vary by region, but some good choices include coneflower, blanketflower, beautyberry, asters, and sunflowers.
Attract hummingbirds with nectar-filled trumpet honeysuckle and cardinal flowers. Native oaks, hollies, dogwoods, sumac, cedars, and spruces provide nuts and berries, as well as shelter.
Stage your birdhouse
Research the birds that you’d like to attract, and give them the house that suits their needs. For example, bluebirds like their nesting boxes out in the open, while chickadees like thick leaf cover.
Whichever bird you try to attract, keep that nesting box away from human noise and activity so you’ll never have to witness the heartbreaking sight of abandoned eggs in an empty nest. Also, keep your cat indoors, if possible. Otherwise, you may find birds not only in your backyard but on your front doorstep, too.
If birds haven’t moved in yet, be patient. Sometimes all your birdhouse needs is a little lichen, moss, or wear and tear to make it more appealing.
Turn a birdbath into a Jacuzzi
If your birdbath is emptier than a swimming pool in January, there could be a reason. The ideal birdbath doesn’t look like you’d expect - it’s placed directly on the ground in a shady space with nearby shrubs.
Add some gravel to the basin so birds can find their footing, and even add a few rocks on the outside to serve as steps. Include a small pump or fountain, if possible. This turns your birdbath into a miniature water feature, and the circulation keeps the water clean and helps birds cool off on hot days.
Leave the leaf litter
If you’re looking for an excuse to get out of gardening chores, you’ll be pleased to know that you’re absolutely allowed to keep that accumulation of dead leaves and small branches on your garden’s floor. It gives birds everything they could ever ask for - bugs and other small animals for snacking, materials for nesting, and even a hiding place from predators.
If things begin to look untidy, just break down the larger branches by hand or with a pair of anvil pruners, and spread everything out evenly. Everyone loves free mulch.
Invest in your feeder
Rather than spending money on multiple feeders that you have to replace year after year, invest in a feeder that’s made with quality materials, has a tightly fitting lid, and drains easily. Better yet, purchase a sturdy pole and squirrel baffle before you leave the garden center.
Even the best feeder will need maintenance, so give it a thorough cleaning every year, and break up any clogged holes so moisture doesn’t accumulate. Trust me on this - cleaning out a maggot-infested feeder is something nobody should have to experience in his or her lifetime.
Related:
Repotting Plants: Give Them a New Home Sweet Home
8 Hot Landscaping Trends for 2017
Do’s and Don’ts of Summer Landscaping
0 notes
feamproffitt · 7 years
Text
How to Attract Birds to Your Yard (Hint: Don't Just Wing It)
It takes more than a bird feeder to attract a colorful variety of songbirds to your backyard. Think of your feeder as a drive-thru fast-food joint in an unsafe neighborhood: The birds will stop to eat, but they won't stick around for very long. They want to get home to their comfy nest in an exclusive deciduous broadleaf community, where they can get fancier food anyway.
If you want to see more than bird backsides at a millet buffet, you need to give them all the luxuries they've come to expect.
Create a habitat
Birds prefer townhomes to single-level ranch houses. They need perches for preening, thickets for hiding, branches for bickering, wide-open spaces for showing off, and, eventually, a tree cavity where they can nest and paint their nursery a nice robin's-egg blue.
Give them privacy by planting walls of foliage. Native shrubs, small trees, and even tall grasses and perennials offer the versatility they need to make a quick escape.
Create a ceiling of tall deciduous and evergreen trees at the back of your property, and plant small understory trees between them and your house. Selectively prune lower limbs of shrubs and small trees so you can easily see perching birds from your window. They'll appreciate the perch, and you'll appreciate the camera angle.
Grow your own birdseed
Money doesn't grow on trees, but, conveniently enough, birdseed does! It also grows on shrubs, perennials, grasses, annuals, and anything else that qualifies as a plant.
To grow the seed that your local bird species prefer, however, choose the native plants that they'd otherwise find in the wild. Native plants vary by region, but some good choices include coneflower, blanketflower, beautyberry, asters, and sunflowers.
Attract hummingbirds with nectar-filled trumpet honeysuckle and cardinal flowers. Native oaks, hollies, dogwoods, sumac, cedars, and spruces provide nuts and berries, as well as shelter.
Stage your birdhouse
Research the birds that you'd like to attract, and give them the house that suits their needs. For example, bluebirds like their nesting boxes out in the open, while chickadees like thick leaf cover.
Whichever bird you try to attract, keep that nesting box away from human noise and activity so you'll never have to witness the heartbreaking sight of abandoned eggs in an empty nest. Also, keep your cat indoors, if possible. Otherwise, you may find birds not only in your backyard but on your front doorstep, too.
If birds haven't moved in yet, be patient. Sometimes all your birdhouse needs is a little lichen, moss, or wear and tear to make it more appealing.
Turn a birdbath into a Jacuzzi
If your birdbath is emptier than a swimming pool in January, there could be a reason. The ideal birdbath doesn't look like you'd expect - it's placed directly on the ground in a shady space with nearby shrubs.
Add some gravel to the basin so birds can find their footing, and even add a few rocks on the outside to serve as steps. Include a small pump or fountain, if possible. This turns your birdbath into a miniature water feature, and the circulation keeps the water clean and helps birds cool off on hot days.
Leave the leaf litter
If you’re looking for an excuse to get out of gardening chores, you'll be pleased to know that you’re absolutely allowed to keep that accumulation of dead leaves and small branches on your garden's floor. It gives birds everything they could ever ask for - bugs and other small animals for snacking, materials for nesting, and even a hiding place from predators.
If things begin to look untidy, just break down the larger branches by hand or with a pair of anvil pruners, and spread everything out evenly. Everyone loves free mulch.
Invest in your feeder
Rather than spending money on multiple feeders that you have to replace year after year, invest in a feeder that's made with quality materials, has a tightly fitting lid, and drains easily. Better yet, purchase a sturdy pole and squirrel baffle before you leave the garden center.
Even the best feeder will need maintenance, so give it a thorough cleaning every year, and break up any clogged holes so moisture doesn’t accumulate. Trust me on this - cleaning out a maggot-infested feeder is something nobody should have to experience in his or her lifetime.
Related:
Repotting Plants: Give Them a New Home Sweet Home
8 Hot Landscaping Trends for 2017
Do’s and Don’ts of Summer Landscaping
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danielgreen01 · 7 years
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How to Attract Birds to Your Yard (Hint: Don't Just Wing It)
It takes more than a bird feeder to attract a colorful variety of songbirds to your backyard. Think of your feeder as a drive-thru fast-food joint in an unsafe neighborhood: The birds will stop to eat, but they won't stick around for very long. They want to get home to their comfy nest in an exclusive deciduous broadleaf community, where they can get fancier food anyway.
If you want to see more than bird backsides at a millet buffet, you need to give them all the luxuries they've come to expect.
Create a habitat
Birds prefer townhomes to single-level ranch houses. They need perches for preening, thickets for hiding, branches for bickering, wide-open spaces for showing off, and, eventually, a tree cavity where they can nest and paint their nursery a nice robin's-egg blue.
Give them privacy by planting walls of foliage. Native shrubs, small trees, and even tall grasses and perennials offer the versatility they need to make a quick escape.
Create a ceiling of tall deciduous and evergreen trees at the back of your property, and plant small understory trees between them and your house. Selectively prune lower limbs of shrubs and small trees so you can easily see perching birds from your window. They'll appreciate the perch, and you'll appreciate the camera angle.
Grow your own birdseed
Money doesn't grow on trees, but, conveniently enough, birdseed does! It also grows on shrubs, perennials, grasses, annuals, and anything else that qualifies as a plant.
To grow the seed that your local bird species prefer, however, choose the native plants that they'd otherwise find in the wild. Native plants vary by region, but some good choices include coneflower, blanketflower, beautyberry, asters, and sunflowers.
Attract hummingbirds with nectar-filled trumpet honeysuckle and cardinal flowers. Native oaks, hollies, dogwoods, sumac, cedars, and spruces provide nuts and berries, as well as shelter.
Stage your birdhouse
Research the birds that you'd like to attract, and give them the house that suits their needs. For example, bluebirds like their nesting boxes out in the open, while chickadees like thick leaf cover.
Whichever bird you try to attract, keep that nesting box away from human noise and activity so you'll never have to witness the heartbreaking sight of abandoned eggs in an empty nest. Also, keep your cat indoors, if possible. Otherwise, you may find birds not only in your backyard but on your front doorstep, too.
If birds haven't moved in yet, be patient. Sometimes all your birdhouse needs is a little lichen, moss, or wear and tear to make it more appealing.
Turn a birdbath into a Jacuzzi
If your birdbath is emptier than a swimming pool in January, there could be a reason. The ideal birdbath doesn't look like you'd expect - it's placed directly on the ground in a shady space with nearby shrubs.
Add some gravel to the basin so birds can find their footing, and even add a few rocks on the outside to serve as steps. Include a small pump or fountain, if possible. This turns your birdbath into a miniature water feature, and the circulation keeps the water clean and helps birds cool off on hot days.
Leave the leaf litter
If you’re looking for an excuse to get out of gardening chores, you'll be pleased to know that you’re absolutely allowed to keep that accumulation of dead leaves and small branches on your garden's floor. It gives birds everything they could ever ask for - bugs and other small animals for snacking, materials for nesting, and even a hiding place from predators.
If things begin to look untidy, just break down the larger branches by hand or with a pair of anvil pruners, and spread everything out evenly. Everyone loves free mulch.
Invest in your feeder
Rather than spending money on multiple feeders that you have to replace year after year, invest in a feeder that's made with quality materials, has a tightly fitting lid, and drains easily. Better yet, purchase a sturdy pole and squirrel baffle before you leave the garden center.
Even the best feeder will need maintenance, so give it a thorough cleaning every year, and break up any clogged holes so moisture doesn’t accumulate. Trust me on this - cleaning out a maggot-infested feeder is something nobody should have to experience in his or her lifetime.
Related:
Repotting Plants: Give Them a New Home Sweet Home
8 Hot Landscaping Trends for 2017
Do’s and Don’ts of Summer Landscaping
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garynsmith · 7 years
Text
How to Attract Birds to Your Yard (Hint: Don't Just Wing It)
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With a little effort, you can build a swanky bird paradise even your fussiest feathered friend will love.
It takes more than a bird feeder to attract a colorful variety of songbirds to your backyard. Think of your feeder as a drive-thru fast-food joint in an unsafe neighborhood: The birds will stop to eat, but they won’t stick around for very long. They want to get home to their comfy nest in an exclusive deciduous broadleaf community, where they can get fancier food anyway.
If you want to see more than bird backsides at a millet buffet, you need to give them all the luxuries they’ve come to expect.
Create a habitat
Birds prefer townhomes to single-level ranch houses. They need perches for preening, thickets for hiding, branches for bickering, wide-open spaces for showing off, and, eventually, a tree cavity where they can nest and paint their nursery a nice robin’s-egg blue.
Give them privacy by planting walls of foliage. Native shrubs, small trees, and even tall grasses and perennials offer the versatility they need to make a quick escape.
Create a ceiling of tall deciduous and evergreen trees at the back of your property, and plant small understory trees between them and your house. Selectively prune lower limbs of shrubs and small trees so you can easily see perching birds from your window. They’ll appreciate the perch, and you’ll appreciate the camera angle.
Grow your own birdseed
Money doesn’t grow on trees, but, conveniently enough, birdseed does! It also grows on shrubs, perennials, grasses, annuals, and anything else that qualifies as a plant.
To grow the seed that your local bird species prefer, however, choose the native plants that they’d otherwise find in the wild. Native plants vary by region, but some good choices include coneflower, blanketflower, beautyberry, asters, and sunflowers.
Attract hummingbirds with nectar-filled trumpet honeysuckle and cardinal flowers. Native oaks, hollies, dogwoods, sumac, cedars, and spruces provide nuts and berries, as well as shelter.
Stage your birdhouse
Research the birds that you’d like to attract, and give them the house that suits their needs. For example, bluebirds like their nesting boxes out in the open, while chickadees like thick leaf cover.
Whichever bird you try to attract, keep that nesting box away from human noise and activity so you’ll never have to witness the heartbreaking sight of abandoned eggs in an empty nest. Also, keep your cat indoors, if possible. Otherwise, you may find birds not only in your backyard but on your front doorstep, too.
If birds haven’t moved in yet, be patient. Sometimes all your birdhouse needs is a little lichen, moss, or wear and tear to make it more appealing.
Turn a birdbath into a Jacuzzi
If your birdbath is emptier than a swimming pool in January, there could be a reason. The ideal birdbath doesn’t look like you’d expect — it’s placed directly on the ground in a shady space with nearby shrubs.
Add some gravel to the basin so birds can find their footing, and even add a few rocks on the outside to serve as steps. Include a small pump or fountain, if possible. This turns your birdbath into a miniature water feature, and the circulation keeps the water clean and helps birds cool off on hot days.
Leave the leaf litter
If you’re looking for an excuse to get out of gardening chores, you’ll be pleased to know that you’re absolutely allowed to keep that accumulation of dead leaves and small branches on your garden’s floor. It gives birds everything they could ever ask for — bugs and other small animals for snacking, materials for nesting, and even a hiding place from predators.
If things begin to look untidy, just break down the larger branches by hand or with a pair of anvil pruners, and spread everything out evenly. Everyone loves free mulch.
Invest in your feeder
Rather than spending money on multiple feeders that you have to replace year after year, invest in a feeder that’s made with quality materials, has a tightly fitting lid, and drains easily. Better yet, purchase a sturdy pole and squirrel baffle before you leave the garden center.
Even the best feeder will need maintenance, so give it a thorough cleaning every year, and break up any clogged holes so moisture doesn’t accumulate. Trust me on this — cleaning out a maggot-infested feeder is something nobody should have to experience in his or her lifetime.
Related:
from Zillow Blog http://ift.tt/2syxgky via IFTTT
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