Costuming the Amyrlin, part 1

I've been thinking for a while about how I love Siuan's costumes - both as pieces in themselves, and for what they might mean as they continue to tell this story. So here we are.

Please note: this post only contains spoilers for the show. Part 2 of this post will contain spoilers for the books as well, and will be linked at the end.

When we see Siuan as Amyrlin, we see her in incredibly elaborate, detailed clothing - it's intricate, it's clearly expensive, it's incredibly structured. These are the outfits that she exerts her power in - within the White Tower or outside of it, the Amyrlin stands alongside kings and queens, and that is made clear the second she walks onscreen.

It bears little resemblance to what we see her wearing in private - those moments where does not have to be the Amyrlin more than she is Siuan, because these are not the clothes of Siuan Sanche, these are the vestments of the Amyrlin Seat. But do you want to know what it does remind me of? Papal regalia.

I would not be surprised at all to find out that Isis Mussenden and Sharon Gilham intentionally channelled religious regalia, given that Siuan is often described as the wizard pope. The clothing sets expectations for those that see them, and they let person and position be the same - it's a clear purpose, and these garments achieve it. Both colour-wise and structurally, there is a strong resemblance there. Costuming is a visual cue for viewers, so when Siuan walks on in something that evokes religious authority or royalty, viewers know instantly what that means.

(Though a bonus thing for the colour of Siuan's clothing? Look what happens when you blend the seven colours of the Ajahs together...

Thank you @fuel-prices for the handy dandy image.

There is a very strong resemblance in colour. And as a side note - this is the only outfit we see her in that entirely obscures her tattoos. But we have Tairen paisley visible on the cuffs. Be it the visible tattoos or the paisley, Siuan does not shy away from where she is from.)

And the thing with both religious wear and Siuan's costumes is that I very much doubt that anybody wearing those clothes is wearing them for fun. A person in a position of power and authority is expected to look the part. Siuan needs people to think of people her as the gold standard of an Amyrlin, because she needs to deflect all belief that she could be anything otherwise. Siuan needs to look the part - Maigan straight up says that Siuan is losing her grip on the Tower: Siuan cannot afford any more doubt cast upon her. She and Moiraine have a shared mission - and in order for Siuan to succeed in her half of it, and to allow Moiraine to succeed in her half, she needs to maintain that power, and that control. Siuan is pragmatic, a planner - she's sensible! She knows she needs to be every part the Amyrlin wherever she can afford to be. So, as she would put it - why rock the boat by rebelling against the image expected of her?

And so, Siuan's costumes may not resemble what the books suggested that she wore, but they convey exactly what they need to - power, and prestige, and a unique position of authority.

I've gone into more detail on the way they might use the costuming so far for forthcoming events in part 2 of this post. Please note: book spoilers to The Gathering Storm.

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Costuming the Amyrlin, part 2

For the sake of spoiler avoidance, this post is in two parts. Please read part 1 on Siuan's costuming as we've seen onscreen so far before reading this post!

At some point in the show, we are going to be seeing Siuan when she is no longer the Amyrlin, and we are going to see Egwene and Elaida as two very different Amyrlins. They have room to go in some very different directions with their costumes, and thus far, I think Siuan's costumes as Amyrlin really lend themselves to this. So this is my speculation, based on what they've done so far, and the elements of Siuan's costuming as they lend themselves to other characters, and how we can contrast them.

Siuan Sanche after the Tower

If you're reading this post, you're very aware that Siuan's time as Amyrlin is not going to last much longer - very scared, but very excited to see Sophie Okonedo absolutely kill it as we see that contrast between Siuan Sanche the Amyrlin Seat, Siuan the stilled runaway, and Siuan Sedai.

It seems a safe bet that Siuan's costumes after the coup will be a lot simpler and a lot more comfortable, and that'll continue in Salidar, not just as a runaway. Siuan on the run, as well as Siuan in Salidar, is Siuan with actual control and agency over the very simple thing of choosing what to wear. Or, as much control as you can have with little in the way of funds or resources. But I wouldn't be shocked if it's a one-way shift - even once the Tower reunites, Siuan will be in a position to have a lot more control over every element of herself, and sticking her in costumes that she would be more comfortable in is an easy visual cue to support whatever she says and does.

(As an aside: I hope Sharon knows that I'll be finding her for A Conversation if she takes cues from the way the books describe Siuan's costumes in Salidar and Tel'aran'rhiod. There are many things that happen in these books that should remain on the page and never grace our screens and a good chunk of that list pertains to Siuan. But anyway...)

Also: I would love it if we get Siuan with a protective hairstyle once she's out of the Tower. Please.

Elaida as Amyrlin

Elaida is going to be living for this. I have no doubt that Elaida's costumes will make Siuan's seem subdued. But how can that happen when Siuan's are already so ostentatious? Add more stuff. Make it tacky. Siuan's regalia, while ostentatious, is tasteful; Elaida is decidedly not. Elaida seems exactly the type to add gems, to add jewellery, to add colour - she wears a lot of red in the books, and if she continues to do so in the show, it will stand out even more after an Amyrlin whose clothing remained neutral. It's a very sharp visual contrast. Elaida is desperately clinging to power, to prestige, to the illusion of respect - I've no doubt that her costuming will reflect that.

I do still expect some continuity with Siuan's costumes, though, at least to start. The papal shapes, with huge swathes of fabric disguising the person underneath; the sheer amount of embroidery and other decoration, a clear display of how much time can be afforded for one garment to be worn by one person. But where Siuan's costumes were neutral, Elaida's will not be. Where Siuan's costumes were subtle (or as subtle as a queen-pope-leader role can allow), Elaida's will not be.

And by making Elaida be so overt in her show of power and resources, it will contrast spectacularly with Egwene in Salidar.

Egwene as Amyrlin

When Egwene is raised, Salidar will have no resources to make her look the Amyrlin in the way that Siuan looked the Amyrlin - they don't have the funds, they don't have the tailors, they don't have the fabric. I'm expecting this to be where the stole of the books to make its appearance - they cannot make Egwene look like she could stand next to a queen, but they can make her recognisable in her role with some strips of fabric.

But also: as I mentioned earlier, the olivey-gold colour that comes when you blend the seven colours of the Ajahs, that bears a striking resemblance to the gold of Siuan's costumes? I can see Egwene wearing that colour, in far simpler clothing. It would be a fairly subtle call-back to Siuan's costumes, dialling down in opposition to the way in which Elaida's will inevitably be dialled up. Egwene's costumes will take the colour, and make the clothing simpler; Elaida's will take the ostentation and the structure, and make it obnoxious.

And when she reunites the Tower, she may not end up in full regalia. Of course, she might, as it would symbolise the reunification, making it feel wholly formal. But I wouldn't be surprised if her regalia is plainer - she was the Amyrlin of a rebel faction, and she did not have the regalia of the position; she does not need it now, because there is no doubt of her role. She does not need to reinforce her position by showing her resources, and given what she has achieved without much at all, a lack of ostentation will lend her more credence than anything else. Egwene as Amyrlin ushers in a new age for the Tower - the vestments may be another thing that she discards with the old ways.

It's still early days - we've yet to see Siuan in season 2, and things may change, depending on the costumes we see her in. (I believe I heard mention of a travelling outfit in this video, and it sounds like it's referring to one we don't see, but I'm not sure.) However, with what they've done so far, I think they've set themselves up spectacularly to show both the change in Siuan over her arc, and the ways in which the Amyrlins that succeed her play their hands in their roles.

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