miu miu spring 2019 rtw

Adut Akech in Miu Miu Spring 2019

Miu Miu Spring 2019 RTW

miu miu spring 2019 rtw

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2019 Details!

              MUSIC VIDEO: ORANGE TREES

Marina unveiled the music video for “Orange Trees” on March 22, 2019 and it positively radiates with summer sunshine. Shot in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, the feel-good clip was directed by Sophie Muller and features Marina dancing on the beach with friends and exploring stunning vistas while serving an array of citrus-hued looks that match the song’s title.

Styling by Mercedes Natalia and Fernanda Clark. Hair by Derek Yuen and glam by Katelin Gan.

The first look shows the Welsh beauty in a look from Galvan’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection. This is the Oasis apple-green sequin-embellished midi dress which features a mock neck, open back and bell sleeves.

New York-based designer Roxanne Assoulin created Marina’s baby Hip Hop But Not crystal earrings in mood-lifting purple and green ($75.00 - sold out). You might remember her rocking a different colorway of these for her desert concert last year!

We’re joining Marina by the pool where she sports this Gottex Ribbons white textured one-piece swimsuit! It boasts a ruched full-coverage silhouette and diagonal stripes.

Another New York-based jeweller is Daniella Kronfle who seeked inspiration in ancestral mosaic artworks for her Mosaico Di Luce II purple amethyst circle earrings ($11,500.00).

Shop:

Daniella Kronfle “Mosaico Di Luce II” Earrings ($11,500.00)

The perfect swimming ensemble was finished with a vintage Emilio Pucci abstract printed silk scarf, which M tied around her waist,...

...and these Topshop Downtown croc two-strap heeled mules ($48.00) in pastel lilac. Unfortunately, they are no longer available.

A perfect summer staple is a bright day dress. Marina chose the Lacoste sporty yet chic soft petit cotton piqué polo dress in yellow. The dress can be self-tied and even has the signature embroidered crocodile logo!

Marina's beach look included the La Robe Dolcedo orange sheer longline cardigan dress from the Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2019 collection titled "La Riviera"!

Underneath, a basic tank scoop neck maillot in white by Solid & Striped.

Our girl has some of the best earrings out there. And these BECK Jewels jade shoulder dusters are definitely no exception ($220.00 - sold out).

The last look of the "Orange Trees" music video shows Marina exploring Puerto Vallarta in the STAUD Vertigo black & white bow detailed bustier mini dress.

Blink and you’ll miss them! We can spot the Miu Miu 50QS green oversized round gradient lens sunglasses on Marina.

Another stunning pair of earrings provided by BECK Jewels are these Evil Eye Totem mismatched freshwater pearl earrings made with 14k gold-filled wires.

Finally, her sneakers. These are the timeless and original Champion lace-up sneakers made from white canvas by cult brand Keds.

Climate Angels should wear Prada

The pressure on luxury labels is growing. They must meet the expectations of eco-conscious Generations Y and Z and face an EU challenge to greenwashing. A visit to Prada.

Even the name sounds promising: Valvigna[1], valley of the vines. In the middle of Tuscany, right on the Autostrada del Sole, is the third "garden factory" of the fashion label Prada. The 33,000 square meter plant expresses a humble respect for nature. 980 vines entwine, following the genius loci: shady pergolas. 8,700 climbing plants make as well facades green, as atriums and even the sky-high glass roof of the canteen, 74,000 ground cover plants spread out in beds, 29,000 bushes ensure that the factory is harmoniously embedded in the spring-like hilly landscape near Arezzo[2]. This is where the productive heart of the Milan luxury group beats. And that is at first glance: incredibly green.

Three weeks ago, far away in Berlin, a different picture came to mind. Climate activists sprayed the shop window and logo of the Prada store on Kurfürstendamm[3] with the signal colour orange. The Italian fashion brand's flagship store was vandalized beyond recognition. "We can't afford the rich anymore," read the signs of the Last Generation[4]. Their colour attack was probably more against the status symbols of wealth than against the manufacturer. But the protest hits Prada and the whole industry in a sore spot.[5]

The pressure on European luxury labels is growing. On the one hand, they have to meet the expectations of their climate-conscious customers from generations Y and Z, whose influence is rapidly increasing globally. On the other hand, the European legislators require the fashion industry to adapt to increasingly strict EU guidelines in terms of sustainability. Brussels no longer wants to be satisfied with declarations of intent and insists on real progress. This is a declaration of war on the greenwashing[6] that is widespread in all sectors of the economy.

In addition, the climate issue for the fashion world is very fundamental. Can an industry that thrives on constantly arousing new desires go green at all? Is expensive luxury fashion sustainable just because it rarely ends up in the dustbin and more and more often in hip resale shops?

Lorenzo Bertelli, 35, sees Prada on the right path towards environmentally friendly production. In a light gray slim-fit suit and a casual shirt, the designated corporate heritage leads through the bag factory in Valvigna. This son of Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, who took over the leather goods store founded in Milan in 1913 and transformed it into a globally coveted fashion brand with 612 of its own stores and 24 factories, has been Head of Marketing since 2019 and has been responsible for sustainability since 2020. In a few years he is to replace his parents at the top of the group and lead one of the few still independent luxury companies in Italy into the future.

Today, the dark-curly Prada offspring has to ensure that the family business sharpens its profile in a climate-friendly manner. The Milan label is trying to adopt a more transparent sustainability strategy and catch up with the pioneers in the industry.

The flagship project is green nylon

"We want to be the engine of change," says Bertelli, who lives out his passion for horsepower as a rally driver, but drives electrically in everyday life. He points to initial successes. The company's greenhouse gas emissions were reduced by 34 percent in 2022 compared to 2019, already exceeding the target of 29.4 percent set for 2026. "Our strong growth allows us to accelerate the process," he says. Two thirds of the electricity used across the Group comes from renewable sources. Four years ago, fur was completely banned from the collections of Prada and the young brand Miu Miu. In 2019, Prada was the first fashion company to take out a loan of 50 million euros, the interest rates of which are linked to the fulfilment of sustainability goals.

Lorenzo Bertelli scores particularly well with a flagship project: It's called Re-Nylon[7] and gets a lot of praise. Because it's not marketing. Rather, it ties in with the breakthrough of the mother 35 years ago.

When Miuccia Prada sent her first collection down the Milan catwalk in 1988, the granddaughter of the master of fine leather accessories shocked the fashion scene with a black nylon backpack.

Can a piece made of water-repellent, functional fabric even be considered a luxury? And how! The nylon satchel made of cheap synthetic fibre made from petroleum conquered wealthy customers and became a cult object. Miuccia's backpack was the perfect anti-statement of traditional luxury. The designer became the darling of a generation that wanted to break away from the classic status symbols. The sales success of the minimalist sack was the reason for Prada's rise to become a cool global brand. Nylon became a trademark of Prada.

Two years ago, the company completed its move away from the dirty stuff. Since 2021, Prada has only used 100 percent recycled synthetic fibres from old fishing nets, carpeting and other textile waste. The luxury group now processes more than 1 million meters of green nylon a year for its clothing, shoes and bags. The material was developed by the Italian chemical company Aquafil[8]. The pioneer from Arco on Lake Garda saves 90 percent of climate-damaging CO2 emissions in the production of regenerated Econyls and also eliminates mountains of nylon waste from the world. Bertelli says: "For Prada, Re-Nylon is a milestone on the way to the circular economy".

In this way, the loop was closed for his family. In 1988, when Miuccia Prada celebrated her brilliant debut, she also gave birth to her son Lorenzo. The 35-year-old has now made her avant-garde nylon cool again.

The decision was made at Prada at a critical moment. In 2019, the company turned around after a five-year weak phase that saw the label lose its shine and suffered a decline in sales and profits. The Renaissance succeeded. In 2022, Prada experienced the best financial year in its history. A record turnover of 4.2 billion euros was achieved, one billion more than in the pre-Covid year 2019. In the first three months of this year, turnover increased by 22 percent. The Miu Miu brand even increased its store sales by 42 percent. The shoe brands Church's and Car Shoe also belong to the group.

For the young Bertelli, business success is the prerequisite for his sustainability strategy. "My first thought in the morning is for the 13,768 employees whose salary I have to guarantee," he says in Valvigna. That's why the Re-Nylon project is so important. It brought many young customers into the Prada stores, he says. "Re-Nylon proves that sustainability pays off".

In other areas, however, Bertelli hesitates. For example leather goods. The issue is gaining in importance as awareness of the environmental impact of leather manufacturing and concerns about animal husbandry grow. And because leather, which accounts for the majority of raw material consumption at Prada, has a particularly large carbon footprint among the materials used in fashion. Other luxury manufacturers are experimenting with leather-like materials that come from the laboratory rather than from a slaughterhouse[9]. Bertelli doesn't think the market is ready for this yet. "Consumers still want real leather," he says.

That doesn't sound very ambitious. Because in order to achieve its own sustainability goal, Prada must now reduce its absolute emissions of climate killers, including emissions caused externally by the supply chain, by 42 percent by 2029. While until now the environmental impact has been reduced in-house, Prada now has to address emissions that are beyond its direct control and are therefore far more difficult to influence. Example: procurement of raw materials. There is no plan yet on how to achieve this goal. The fact that Bertelli recruited reinforcements at the beginning of the year made one sit up and take notice. He recruited the experienced sustainability manager Chiara Morelli from the French luxury group Kering, which is considered the industry leader in climate protection.

Its industrial strength should also help the glamorous group. In the chic garden factory in Valvigna, where 770 employees work, not only are all the bag collections designed and developed through to the production of the prototypes. Patrizio Bertelli, 77, also controls the other 23 factories of the group from here. Ever since he and his wife turned the outdated family brand into the world-famous "The Devil Wears Prada" label, Bertelli has relied on the company's vertical integration.

At the age of 18, the Tuscan already owned a small leather business. For decades, he was ridiculed in the industry for his factory weakness. Now the competing brands of the luxury groups LVMH[10] and Kering[11] are copying it. In a race to secure the technical know-how, all fashion houses are now expanding their own production in Italy or taking on contract manufacturers. Starting from a high level, Prada is now investing a further 130 million euros in the expansion of its own factories in two years. 30 percent of the goods are already produced there. The control should now support the tour de force in environmental protection. "Our industrial model is a strong accelerator of the sustainability strategy," says Lorenzo Bertelli.

He also knows that there is still a long way to go before (climate) Angels wear Prada. And: The luxury industry cannot push itself. Prada's gross operating profit was 78 percent of sales last year. So there is no shortage of money. "If you have more, you should also do more," says Bertelli.

Source

Ulrike Sauer, Klima-Engel sollen Prada tragen, in: Süddeutsche Zeitung, 15-5-2023; https://www.sueddeutsche.de/wirtschaft/prada-nachhaltigkeit-luxus-mode-italien-recycling-1.5861212

[1] In the garden factory of Valvigna, Tuscany, architecture explores the uncontaminated relation between constructions, rigour of design and freedom of natural elements. The restoration of a damaged environment and the mitigation of the impact of buildings on landscape are the priority.  The industrial headquarters in Valvigna hosts the production division and the development of the Prada and Miu Miu leather goods collections, the warehouses for raw materials, the historical archives of the leather goods and footwear collections, the offices for general services and industrial administration, an auditorium, systems areas and the Prada Group. https://www.pradagroup.com/en/perspectives/stories/sezione-luoghi/valvigna.html

[2] Arezzo is a city and commune in Italy and the capital of the province of the same name located in Tuscany. Arezzo is about 80 kilometres southeast of Florence at an elevation of 296 metres above sea level. As of 2022, the population was about 97,000.

[3] The Kurfürstendamm is one of the most famous avenues in Berlin (sometimes called Ku'damm in short). The street takes its name from the former Kurfürsten (prince-electors) of Brandenburg. The broad, long boulevard can be considered the Champs-Élysées of Berlin and is lined with shops, houses, hotels and restaurants. In particular, many fashion designers have their shops there, as well as several car manufacturers' show rooms.

[4] The Last Generation (German: Letzte Generation) is a group of climate change activists. Their civil disobedience methods, such as desecrating artworks or blocking roads, often generate public outrage. In 2022, the group performed 276 road blockades in Germany. In Rome, they threw soup at a van Gogh painting behind glass, called The Sower. In Potsdam, they threw mashed potatoes onto a Monet painting. None of the artworks they attacked were damaged. The group was formed by participants of the 2021 Hungerstreik der letzten Generation which had blockaded highways in Berlin. They chose their name to signal that Earth is approaching climate tipping points, and that their generation is the last one that can prevent climate collapse.

[5] Read also: https://www.tumblr.com/earaercircular/681528665945915392/verbose-and-empty-this-is-how-you-distinguish?source=share

[6] Read also: https://www.tumblr.com/earaercircular/712601625867567104/only-really-green-can-be-called-green?source=share & https://www.tumblr.com/earaercircular/706325269171060736/half-of-environmental-claims-companies-make-are?source=share

[7] The Prada Re-Nylon collection is a groundbreaking evolution of the brand’s most recognisable signifier, nylon - an emblem of Prada’s distinct viewpoint on modern luxury, an industrial beauty, and contemporary life for more than four decades. https://www.prada.com/it/en/pradasphere/special-projects/2020/prada-re-nylon.html

[8] Since 1965, the Aquafil Group has been a pioneer of the circular economy and a landmark in terms of quality and product innovation for Italy and the globe. We primarily manufacture Nylon 6 fibres and polymers but also Nylon 6.6 and Dryarn. Our flagship product is ECONYL® nylon, which revolutionizes the world of synthetic fibres through a closed-loop model. Today, Aquafil remains a leader in the research of new production systems for sustainable development. https://www.aquafil.com/the-group/

[9] Read also: https://www.tumblr.com/earaercircular/667203430752894976/swiss-watch-industry-aims-for-circular-watches?source=share

[10] LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (commonly known as LVMH), is a French multinational holding and conglomerate specializing in luxury goods, headquartered in Paris. The company was formed in 1987 through the merger of fashion house Louis Vuitton (founded in 1854) with Moët Hennessy, which was established following the 1971 merger between the champagne producer Moët & Chandon (founded in 1743) and the cognac producer Hennessy (founded in 1765).In 2023, with a valuation of $500 billion, LVMH became the most valuable company in Europe.

[11] Kering is a French-based multinational corporation specializing in luxury goods. It owns the brands Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent. The timber-trading company Pinault S.A. was founded in 1963, by François Pinault. After the company was quoted on Euronext Paris in 1988, it became the retail conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR) in 1994, and the luxury group Kering in 2013. The group has been a constituent of the CAC 40 since 1995. François-Henri Pinault has been president and CEO of Kering since 2005. In 2020, the group's revenue reached €13.1 billion.

Miu Miu Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear

Miu Miu Spring 2019 RTW

Backstage @ Miu Miu Spring 2019 RTW

Tibi Spring 2023 Ready to Wear

Since last year, those even mildly interested in the fashion scene have had their inboxes and social media feeds flooded with the news that “Y2K” is “back” in fashion. Maybe it started with Nicola Brognano’s praised revival of Bluemarine, or it could have been influenced by Miu Miu’s now iconic mini skirt that was as present at fashion weeks as is Anna Wintour. Either way, there is certainly a widely held belief that 2000s-core, if you will, is back in fashion. Though not widely considered as an important part of the Y2K trend cycle, there is one woman and brand whose attachment to the decade is perhaps just as if not more important than any DIY crop top and bedazzled jeans. Amy Smilovic and her New York-based line Tibi began on the cusp of the new millennium and their comeback to fashion in recent years is just as strong- if not stronger- than Y2K's sudden resurgence. For Spring 2023, Smilovic relied on looseness to relay her seasonal message. A co-ed collection that marks the brand’s 25th-year anniversary, Tibi’s fluid relaxed outing was a reminder that dressing with comfort in mind need not replace class and creativity.

For Amy, playing it safe never quite felt comfortable. After a rather tumultuous start- the former ex-pat founded her label attempting to sell dresses to locals in China back in the late-1990s- the independent brand found its groove in the United States where their crafty floral dresses sold like proverbial hotcakes. However, in 2010, Tibi began a change of aesthetic that has continued to drastically influence the current state and look of what may be called the “New Tibi”. What was dainty and safe was cast aside for more of a modern look that included risk-taking and challenging what defines contemporary dress. After the decision was made to abandon the tired past, business boomed. By 2015- just five years after the turnaround efforts began- Amy and her team reported a 103% increase in sales. The strong momentum continued up until the COVID-19 pandemic. 2019 saw record sales of $59 million, though when COVID arrived in March of 2020, business began to struggle. Layoffs were imminent, wholesale account revenues dropped by 50%, and uncertainty flooded the once seemingly resilient label that survived the 2000s “.com” crash, the 9/11 tragedy, and the crippling 2008 financial crisis. Through nimbleness and courage, Tibi bounced back. Today, while not much is known about the financial state of the company, Amy Smilovic appears happy than ever. In speaking with Vogue on the inspiration for this seasons showing, the founder appears in a jubilant and inclusive mood stating, “We wanted to acknowledge that style and beauty make us feel really great. When you’re just trying to enjoy life, surrounding yourself with that is a good thing,” she continued “Life is life. It’s all there is, and you can make it great and enjoy it or not.” 25 years in business is certainly an accomplishment, though, perhaps what is more noteworthy is the resilience of the founder whose drive and leadership helped to navigate it against uncertainty and the unknown.

To start the Spring collection, a pair of baggy white-wash jeans and a transparent tank combination set the mood for the relaxed ensemble. Always effortless and cool, the Tibi woman’s greatest trait is her confidence. Lose fit was the choice word for the season. Jeans never sat too high or too tight, and jackets always incorporated a generous shoulder and sleeve. XL blouses and hoodies too echoed the call for comfort amidst “Back to the Office” policies and accompanying strict wardrobes many corporate employees are now being faced with once again. Long-sleeve jersey dresses, graphic crew-neck tee, and cropped sweaters were all stylish reminders that Amy Smilovic always designs with a real-world woman in mind. New experimental style’s saw a deconstructed trouser transformed into a draped overall, a four-buttoned polo with shoulder pads strong enough to support the elephant’s that crossed the Brooklyn Bridge, and a trouser/skirt hybrid that allows wearers to play with its duality via a neatly hidden pallete of buttons that runs along the inseam. Even with the clear Margiela references, Tibi’s consistent newness is one of the brand’s clear identifiers and assists in providing shoppers with a fresh look each passing season. Admittedly, the menswear portion of the show felt weak in contrast to the strength of its womenswear. While a common thread was apparent with the use of his and her jeans, matching graphic tees, and similar cuts of the blazers, where the Tibi woman maintains a unique finesse, her male counterpart appears to fade into her shadow. Pooling jeans, a graphic tee here and there, and slouchy suits made up the majority of what was offered on the menswear front. Look 39 was promising. A final tailored suit in a crisp burnt orange evidenced that Mrs. Smilovic’s talent for tailoring can extend to menswear if she so chooses to further explore it.

Happy 25th Tibi and congratulations on a major milestone Amy Smilovic. To mark such an event, the leading designer took to show her audience not a flashback of past collections or best-selling styles, but instead, to maintain her updated modern identity. Loose and agile- much like the Tibi label itself- were the season's descriptors. If these past 25 years were anything to judge by, it is safe to assume that the label’s future is in good hands. Here is to 25 more years of excitement, innovation, and craftsmanship.

Miu Miu Spring 2019 RTW

Grandpacore 2024: Embracing the Eclectic Grandpa Trend

As TZR’s social media editor, I spotted the “eclectic grandpa” trend on my feed and had to cover it. Coined by Pinterest, this “grandpacore” style is cross-generational, blending classic and comfortable silhouettes with an adventurous spirit. Designers like Miu Miu and Coach showcased it in their Spring/Summer 2024 collections.

Celebrities like Gigi Hadid, Tyler, the Creator, and Harry Styles are embracing grandpa-chic, with Hadid’s brand, Guest In Residence, leading the knitwear scene. The trend is about personal style rather than specific pieces. To inspire you, I’ve curated six outfit combinations with essential pieces.

Pattern Party

To embody the refined style of a discerning older gentleman, it’s crucial to recognize argyle as a neutral pattern, making it highly adaptable for personal expression. Experiment by pairing it with wide-leg leopard print jeans, bold sunglasses, and a set of penny loafers. Personally, I have my eye on a stylish black and white pair from the Italian brand Maguire.

Hattitude

Hats serve a purpose beyond covering bad hair days—take a cue from grandpas who effortlessly sport baseball hats in various settings. Consider upgrading from your worn-out Yankees cap or that freebie from a 2019 company retreat to something more unique from a beloved fashion brand. The corduroy Clare V. style, for instance, complements well with baggy jeans, a navy trench coat, and your go-to black sneakers.

The Groufit

The groufit, a timeless grandpa classic, holds a special place in my heart, reminiscent of my grandpa’s collection of grey cardigans. To give this staple a contemporary twist, opt for a snugger silhouette, layering it over a slightly boxy white t-shirt for a stylish peek at both ends of the sweater. The Alex Pants from Reformation offer an ideal relaxed fit, striking the perfect balance without being overly oversized.

Suedecore

The allure of raiding your grandpa’s closet for jackets is no surprise. Whether you inherit a suede blazer or treat yourself to one, pairing it with light-wash denim and suede boots exudes a sophisticated senior citizen charm. Opt for boots like these from Ulla Johnson, blending suede and leather with a platform sole for protection against snow and salty sidewalks. Taking a cue from the always-prepared grandpas, drape a sweater over your shoulders for warmth in case of a chill.

Faux Fan

In 2024, the trend is all about elevating our merchandise, courtesy of Taylor Swift. If you lean towards a more grandpa style than a WAG vibe, experiment by teaming your favorite crewneck with loose, cuffed jeans, a stylish belt, and timeless loafers.

H-T Corduroy

Corduroy stands as a staple fabric in the wardrobe of an elder, and the eclectic grandpa is giving it a contemporary twist. Embracing not just a corduroy suit but going for a full monochromatic look. To elevate it further, they’re opting for a turtleneck layered underneath the blazer—a total mic drop move.

MOVEMENT-Photography

Secondary Research

I wrote in a post previously about how I wanted research film photography being used in fashion as its not something I've come across before. I found many photographers that are still using film to shoot fashion. The ones that I particularly liked were shot by Alice Neale, a London based photographer for Miu Miu, one of my favorite high fashion brands. It was shot showcasing some of their pieces from their spring summer runway and post-runway collections in 2019.

I really like this particular film series because its a cinematic study of three female characters, the story of who these women are and what exactly they are doing is ambiguous, the narrative left up to the viewer’s interpretation. This is not something I feel particularly comfortable with in my own work as you can see from my project in semester one, I feel the need to annotate my work so that the viewers know what I was thinking at the time the piece was created but this photo series has sparked an interest for me to take a more cryptic approach with my work in the future.

This research would have related to my work more if I had some film photography showcasing my fashion piece but unfortunately I don't as I stated in my last post. Im going to take some pictures of the denim piece on the camera on my phone and try edit them to look like film.

Referencing

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WGSN (2022) Interiors Forecast A/W 23/24: NatureVerse Available at:https://www.wgsn.com/interiors/article/92650#page16 (accessed 25th November 2022)

Prada Luggage

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