#meadham kirchhoff
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Meadham Kirchhoff | Spring 2014
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Meadham Kirchhoff Fall/Winter 2013
Ph. Rory Van Millingen
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Meadham Kirchhoff backstage
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Meadham Kirchhoff ready to wear fall 2014
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The Legacy of Meadham Kirchhoff
by Genesis G-A
Known for their outrageous interloping of romanticism and rebellion, Meadham Kirchoff had become an iconic brand in the early to mid-2000s. The brand was founded by designers Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchoff, both graduates from Central Saint Martins, which gained fame through its extravagant expression of whimsicality. An interview by Glamcult with Kirchoff verbalizes how he designs from instinct in a state of “aborted happiness,” and both feel the fashion industry is “based on a repetition of ideas, often aimed at product placement.”
Their inspirations ranging from Victorian dolls to Courtney Love lookalikes in the SS 2012 show, the duo expressed a fresh approach to fashion which became one of the signatures of their brand identity.
Each show transported you into a carefully crafted almost theatrical performance with scent, visuals, light, and music accompanying. Their rebellious spirit brought new design innovation through patchwork dresses in velvet and leather, stacked glittering platform shoes, and a runway decorated with what looked like blood-dipped tampons. Each piece in their collection was carefully made through tailoring research and using techniques such as Elizabethan lacework. The handwork which came in forms of hand embroidery showed in garments in almost all seasons, and detailed construction of each piece became a standard for the brand
Although their womenswear lines achieved most of the media attention, their menswear emerged as out of the ordinary on the London scene. The collections set the direction of modern-day menswear, anticipating the arrival of gender-fluid casting and boy-meets-girl styling. One of their final shows, SS 15, was reclaimed as a celebration of different bodies, genders, and races. The use of rubber, chiffon, color, and layered drapery was an ode to the liberation they stand for. They were chosen as LVMH Young Fashion Designers but weren’t included as finalists so in their show notes they elaborated, “Fuck LVMH corporate fashion,” which is admirable considering the nature of the fashion industry, LVMH, and celebrity culture. As a Dazed article states, “Because fashion doesn’t just have to be about seasonal trends; it can, at its best, be a broader reflection of society, and like riot grrl, BodyMap, Westwood, and Leigh Bowery before them, Meadham Kirchhoff is making clothes for the people they love: the dykes, fags, slappers, and freaks.”
The brand met its demise when most of their clothes they were making weren’t sellable; the market was too niche, and production costs of garments became too high. While it was believed for Meadham Kirchoff as a whole for their clothes to be either too expensive or costume-like, critics praised them, and many designers looked at them as an inspiration. As a Dazed Article states, “They were showing detailed lace on par and on time with the wonders that Alexander McQueen was showing on its runway. Some have even likened the brand’s jackets—particularly from years ago—as foreshadowing those that made Christophe Decarnin a star at Balmain.”
Most of the brand’s pieces have been long lost, as the archive was taken by their landlord and sold in 2015, leaving only pictures and memories of what once was. Since the brand shut down, the duo has gone on separate paths. Meadham launched a new label called Blue Roses, and Kirchoff has become a stylist and menswear consultant. While Meadham Kirchoff could not have survived in the corporate fashion world, they live on as a martyr of sorts through their fun, cheeky, whimsical yet rebellious spirit, which inspires the future of the industry and may even have been ahead of its time.
References:
#fashion blog#blog#meadham kirchhoff#fashion week#london#fashion design#fashion designer#runway fashion#runway
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Meadham Kirchhoff Fall/Winter 2011-12 Details!
#fashion#meadham kirchhoff#style#fashion show#runway#fashion runway#runway details#dress details#fashion details
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Meadham Kirchhoff FALL 2013 READY-TO-WEAR
#fashion#model#couture#high fashion#haute couture#runway#aestethic#makeup#photoshoot#dark aesthetic#dark core#goth#goth core#meadham kirchhoff
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Meadham Kirchhoff Spring 2012 "A Wolf in Lamb's Clothing"
Photos via Rookie Mag
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meadham kirchhoff ready to wear spring ‘14
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Meadham Kirchhoff LFW 2014
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Meadham Kirchhoff F/W 2013
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pour les artists, some outfits that strike me as quite drawable. whether u r a cute little character designer, or whatever else.... itz alwayz fun 2 draw some wacky cool peepz!
collections (from top left to bottom right): Meadham Kirchhoff spring 2014 rtw, Meadham Kirchhoff spring 2012 rtw, Marc Jacobs fall 2020 rtw, Comme des Garçons fall 1992 rtw
#fashion#fashion archives#archive fashion#meadham kirchhoff#marc jacobs#comme des garcons#art inspiration
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