I've been wanting to make a one for so long. Then I saw this fabric in an outlet that sells faulty fabrics discarded from factories, where you can find some unusual stuff that you can't find in regular shops.
This fabric is supposed to have this print all over, but got only printed at the bottom. If you squint you can see faded print marks on the middle section too. The moment I saw this I immediately thought of a mamianqun because a lot of mamianqun come with bottom print 😍.
However do not copy me in this, because I only thought of the pattern and not the fact that the fabric is too bulky and heavy especially for dress with humongous volume. It does not make for for the nicest, crispiest pleats as you can see in the pictures below. Also this is gonna be such a pain to wash and dry.
But I will give myself a pat on the back because this is my first attempt, and for someone who has never taken a formal sewing class nor is able to properly follow any instructional guide because I'm scatterbrained like that, I think I did a pretty swell job! ☺
Even though it took me a whole damn day and numerous frustrating unpicking and redoing over and over again, lol.
Though I am not able to provide you a guide (because like I said, I myself am incapable of following any), I used the following four sources to get an idea about what I am trying to do to begin with. I studied these four, then attempted it myself and figured it out gradually as I went, through trial and error.
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1. This helped me understand the overall geometry of the garment.
2. This gave me clear visual aid about what the end product should look like.
3. This doll-size mamianqun video was simple and gave a very good and non-complex demo of the process.
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4. This helped me with understanding how to attach the waistband.
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The modifications I added myself are:
Making the waistband a button-up. As the skirt was already so heavy, I thought a long strip of a tie would make it even more difficult to handle. But at the same time it is not easy to secure something like this so it wouldn't accidentally fall apart. So I used two sturdy buttons from the front, and another button in the back, from inside (you can't see it)
Adding pockets! In the 3rd source I posted above, at the 0:41 mark you see that there's this one huge pleat that gets folded inwards, right?
And I thought, two simple vertical and horizontal stitches from inside can turn them to pockets, so why not!
The final product! Yayyy!
(Don't look at the imperfections, they are shy ok!)
I received the following message via chat from a follower, that I would like to share here:
Hi, 小紫, do you know that Dior appropriates the modernized mamianqun designed by some hanfu brands in china? link of discussion about Dior 2022 A/W show on weibo: https://weibo.com/6323095999/LChcJyPTa?refer_flag=1001030103_&type=repost#_rnd1657858224778 , I think Dior indeed directly referenced the structure of how it's pleated and inner cutouts of mamianqun which has a long history dated back to ming dynasty and influenced the shape of qing dynasty skirts as well, it is sussy, look how the DIOR model turned around when the skirt spread to reveal the split style, this is indeed the unique inner structure of mamianqun, a more rigorous examination requires DIOR to show the flat design, but Dior is not responding, it claims on the official website that this is their exclusive style launched this year, yet the same style of mamianqun has been prevalent among young people in China for several years, there are several taobao stores making exactly this kind of modernized mamianqun since 2018 or even early (metal leather buckle belt + fabric suitable for autumn and winter + long skirts), such as 四时景, 你好美荔, etc., I don't know how to make it an anonymous ask for you to post my question but I would like to listen to your and other followers' comments on this, thank you 小紫(also feel totally free not to post this one, it's your blog and you make the call ❤️
Here is a screenshot of Dior’s official shop with the skirt in question:
And here are screenshots of the skirt being displayed on the runway:
Although I am not an expert on tailoring, it does look extremely similar to a Chinese mamianqun/马面裙 (horse-face skirt). Below is an actual modern mamianqun from hanfu brand 你好美荔’s 2018 collection, for comparison:
And here’s a reference sheet on Ming dynasty mamianqun history & construction:
Below is a summary of key points of Chinese netizens’ comments on Weibo:
Based on tailoring and construction, Dior took direct reference from mamianqun for this skirt
However, this is not necessarily “wrong” in and of itself. After all, fashion brands take inspiration from different cultures all the time
What IS wrong, and what is leading to the backlash from Chinese netizens, is that Dior is claiming that the skirt uses an “iconic Dior silhouette” (标志性的Dior廓形) and is a “completely new...fashion item” (全新的优雅时尚单品). See below for screenshot of the item description on their shop, using these exact words:
Personally, I agree with all of the above points. The act of a Western fashion house such as Dior taking inspiration from (or directly using) sartorial styles from other cultures is not new. It is also, in my opinion, not necessarily wrong - as long as due credit is given to the culture(s) that served as a reference for the styles. I do not believe that a historic fashion house like Dior is unaware of the existence of mamianqun. After all, even Princess Diana wore a Qing dynasty-style mamianqun before, in 1981 (x):
Claiming that the style is totally original and unique to Dior, even an “iconic silhouette” of the brand, is disingenuous in the extreme and deserves to be called out.
I am interested in hearing what my followers think about this. Especially tagging @fouryearsofshades and @audreydoeskaren who are knowledgeable about mamianqun construction and history. What do you all think?
Dior's latest bullshit and the increase of mamianqun on my dash is encouraging me to yell excitedly about them, from the not-at-all-professional perspective of being Just Some Guy Online who thinks they're Really Neat. (ノ◕ヮ◕)ノ*:・゚✧
(Check out @ziseviolet's mamianqun tag for gorgeous pics, info, and also the Dior nonsense if you're unfamiliar.)
And like, first of all, THE COLORS??? Nowadays you can get mamianqun in all kinds of fabrics, colors, levels of fanciness, and even some length variations, but I'm an absolute sucker for jewel and metallic tones and holy shit do mamianqun deliver on gorgeous reds and blues and greens with golden or silver patterning, UGH, who needs literally anything else to look fabulous when wearing a mamianqun.
Second, the sheer versatility with modern fashion tastes? Wear 'em to work or dates or errands or Just Because, with traditional or modified or Western tops - it's all gorgeous! The Chinese street fashion that folks post just KILL me.
Third, their weight. They have a lovely kind of swing to their weight when you walk, especially if it's made of brocade and full-length, which settles something in my autistic sensory sensitivities. It also makes them a pleasantly warm layer!
Fourth, their construction. I'm super amateur in my sewing skills - I can do some basic tailoring, but that's about it, and I've got mad fucking respect for garment makers of any cultural background because gods know I can't do that creating-from-scratch shit (yet!). The sheer CLEVERNESS of their functionalism in allowing horseback-riding in a way that covers the legs and preserves modesty without having to go side-saddle or wiggle around trying to untangle fabric from under your ass, while also keeping it looking classy af, is just /chef's kiss. The pleating that is laid out Just So at the sides really satisfies my need to fidget with things to make them Just So, and I often find myself stimming by just running my fingers over the pleating folds, ahahaha. And, being a wrap skirt, it lets me adjust as needed for days when my delicate snowflake body is particularly sensitive to pressure, so, yay! Accessibility stuff!