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[ID: A slice of dark brown cake garnished with dried sorrel on a plate dotted with dried raisins and currants. End ID]
Jamaican black cake (optionally halal)
Black cake is a kind of fruit cake flavored with rum and spices and colored with burnt sugar. Variations on the cake are eaten throughout the Caribbean, primarily during Christmas but also for Easter or other celebrations such as weddings or birthdays. Dried fruits soaked in rum and wine, molasses, lime juice, warm spices, and sometimes rosewater produce the signature deeply fruity taste of Jamaican versions of the cake. Black cake often has a dense, smooth, pudding-like texture; I’ve made my halal version reduced gluten, to mimic the gluten-inhibiting effects of alcohol and produce that melt-in-your-mouth effect.
This recipe was requested by a patron; you can request recipes or vote on what I upload next by joining my Patreon.
Recipe under the cut!
Makes one 8" cake.
Ingredients:
For the cake:
1 cup (120g) all-purpose flour (substitute almond meal for a gluten-free version)
1/2 cup (55g) almond meal (substitute all-purpose flour if using rum)
1/2 cup non-dairy margarine, softened
1 cup unrefined sugar (such as muscavado or sucanat), or organic light brown sugar
3 Tbsp Jamaican or Caribbean molasses (if using brown sugar instead of unrefined)
3 Tbsp neutral oil, such as canola
2 Tbsp water or rosewater
1 tsp ground cinnamon, or 2-inch piece cinnamon stick
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg, or 1 tsp freshly grated
1/2 tsp ground allspice (preferably Jamaican), or 16 allspice berries
1/2 tsp ground cloves, or 16 whole cloves
1/2 tsp ground mace, or 1 head
5 Tbsp Caribbean browning (store-bought may be too bitter; taste and maybe use less)
Juice of 1 lime (about 2 Tbsp)
Zest of 1 lime
1 Tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp table salt
2 cups (460g) soaked fruit mixture
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp almond extract
My freshly ground spices totalled 9 grams; because freshly ground spices incorporate more air, you may want to include a bit more than I used by volume to account for settling.
Organic brown sugar is evaporated from cane juice and retains some of its original molasses, but less than unrefined sugars do. Non-organic brown sugars may be refined sugars with molasses added back in. Organic brown sugar is sure to be vegetarian (not filtered with bone char)—other refined sugars may or may not be suitable for vegetarians.
Unrefined sugars such as muscovado retain more of their original cane molasses, but they may clump and need to be grated before they can be used in baking. Sucanat is an unrefined sugar that should be pourable.
For the soaked fruit:
1 1/3 cup (130g) mixed black raisins, dried prunes, dried currants, and dried cherries
About 1/2 cup white rum (Wray and Newphew overproof rum is popular in Jamaica)
About 1/2 cup sweet red wine (commonly, Wray and Nephew red label)
Black raisins, prunes, currants, and dried cherries are the most typical fruits to use in black fruit cake. Many Jamaicans today also include mixed peel and red or green glacé cherries. Most recipes include more prunes and raisins than other fruits, but prunes make the cake too bitter for some people's taste; consult your own preference.
Most recipes call for “white rum,” but there is no clear dividing line in terms of flavor between “white” and “dark” rum. Some light rums are the result of ageing and subsequent filtering, while some dark rums have been aged less but have had color or molasses added in. If in doubt, just use something you like!
For the halal rum and wine mixture:
My halal 'rum' uses fruits, herbs, and spices that mimic the funky, fruity, vegetal notes of a Jamaican rum; it also takes inspiration from other drinks common in Jamaica. Ripe fruit is a source of the esthers that give rum its signature fermented taste, while sorrel and malta help to produce a well-rounded flavor. The point is not necessarily to taste ‘like’ rum, but to replace its complexity in the cake.
1 cup water or coconut water
1/2 black overripe banana or plantain, with its peel
Other ripe fruit, such as a handful of raspberries or a few slices of mango (optional)
1 Tbsp (2g) dried sorrel (hibiscus; optional)
1/2 inch chunk (5g) ginger
2-inch piece (2g) Ceylon cinnamon
2-inch piece (2g) cassia cinnamon (I used a mix of Chinese and Indonesian)
4 whole cloves
6 allspice berries
1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
A few pieces (1g) dried orange peel, or zest of one orange
2 ciliment (bay rum) leaves
1 Indian bay leaf (tej patta)
2 Tbsp West Indian molasses, or malta (Jamaican soft drink)
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp almond extract
1/2 cup red grape juice (in place of the wine)
Any ingredients you don't have (except for the grape juice) may be omitted.
Instructions:
For the halal rum and wine mixture:
1. Roughly crush ginger and spices in a mortar and pestle or with the flat of a knife. Simmer fruit, sorrel, spices, bay leaves, and orange peel, covered, in water or coconut water for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to steep for about an hour, still covered.
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2. Strain mixture through a nut milk bag or coffee filter to remove fruit pulp. Mix in extracts, molasses or malta, and grape juice.
3. Top up mixture with more water if necessary to achieve a total volume of 1 1/3 cup (315mL).
For the soaked fruit:
1. Combine all fruits (including mixed peel and glacé cherries, if using) with enough rum and wine mixture to cover in a large glass jar. If using the halal rum and wine mixture, you should have at least 1/4 cup of it left over.
2. Soak dried fruits for a minimum of a week and up to a year (if using rum). Some bakers begin soaking fruit for the next year's cake immediately after Christmas! Keep fruits at room temperature while soaking if you're using rum, or in the fridge if not using alcohol. Occasionally check back and top up the liquid if the fruits soak some of it up and are no longer covered.
You may also choose to simmer the fruits for a few minutes and then soak them for a few hours if you're in a hurry.
3. Optionally, grind soaked fruits in a blender or food processor until smooth and paste-like. Whether you keep the fruits whole or grind them depends on what texture you want in your cake; I ground them to create a smooth, dense texture.
For the cake:
1. Whisk together all dry ingredients except for sugar (flour, almond meal, lime zest, spices, baking powder, salt) in a large mixing bowl.
2. Beat 1/2 cup softened margarine in a medium bowl with an electric beater until smooth. Add 1 cup sugar and beat for several more minutes until creamy to incorporate air.
3. Place 2 Tbsp water or rosewater in a small bowl and slowly add 3 Tbsp oil while whisking to create an emulsion. Slowly add the mixture to the creamed margarine, continuing to beat.
4. Slowly add 2 Tbsp lime juice and vanilla and almond extracts (1 tsp each) while mixing with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Add 2 cups (about 460g) fruit paste, 5 Tbsp browning, and 3 Tbsp molasses (if using brown rather than unrefined sugar) and mix.
5. Add flour mixture a little at a time and fold until well combined, with no remaining dry spots.
6. Bake in a parchment-paper-lined 8" cake pan at 250 °F (120 °C) for about 2 1/2 hours, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. The low temperature and long cooking time help to give the cake its smooth, dense texture.
7. As soon as you remove the cake from the oven, pour about 1/4 cup of your rum and wine mixture over the cake—this makes the cake very moist, as well as ensuring that the more volatile aromatics in the rum don’t disappear during baking.
8. Spray the cake with the wine and rum mixture every few days. It will be at its best a few days after baking!
The cake may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for about 5 days (then moved to the fridge and stored for another week) if containing rum; a halal version will need to be stored in the fridge from the beginning.
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