June 7, 2018: Yellowstone National Park, Day One

After luckily securing the last campsite left at Rainbow Point campground on the shores of Hebgen Lake the afternoon previous, we were sporadically awoken on the morning of June 7th to a violent thunderstorm in the early morning. Around 4 or 5am, I can’t quite remember when exactly, Danielle were fast asleep in our tent, when Dirk woke us up, warning of the impending storm. Raindrops the size of grapes had began to fall, and thunder was booming in the distance. We had seen via the forecast the high potential for this storm, and had gone to sleep nervously the night before. With Dirk luckily awaking right on the cusp, we quickly began packing up our campsite as the thunder and torrential downpour began to overtake us completely. Rushing to finish before soaking ourselves and gear by the light of flashlight, we crammed our packs into the Thule, and hopped in the Ac’, and drove to the shore of the lake to watch lightening crack across the sky and reflect off the grey and wavy water.

The four of us sat in the car for a few minutes in awe as we watched the lightening arc across the sky and listened to the rain pelt the roof. We laughed at how quickly we’d packed up the campsite fueled by panic, and how the rush of adrenaline had shaken any feelings of grogginess we’d normally have getting up so early. After storm-watching for some time, we started the car and headed towards Yellowstone.

As we drove, the sun began to slowly rise, and the clouds began to clear, with a double rainbow vividly appearing. Once we reached the park, the sky had cleared completely, and the roads were near empty. We got our first taste of wildlife, encountering a female elk on the side of the road. Soon after, we were met with a Yellowstone traffic-jam — a herd of bison blocking the road. Needless to say, we were ecstatic. We waited for the herd to pass, and continued deeper into the park, hoping to find a spot at Madison Campground, but fearing again the campground would be completely full as it was the night before.

Arriving at Madison, we found a man waiting outside the campground office, half an hour before it opened. He explained to us that all reservable sites in the campground were full, and first-come-first-serve sites had to be renewed each morning, otherwise one may lose their site. So, hoping for the best, we joined him in line, hoping someone would be leaving. Once the office opened, luck was on our side again, and a very nice park ranger was able to find us a vacant spot, which we promptly headed to and set up our camp, leaving behind a line of disheartened folks who were unable to cop a spot.

After setting up camp and having a bit of breakfast, we headed out to explore the legendary park. Our first stop was what I believe was Artist Paintpots, a short boardwalk trail through various thermal landscapes. Although the boardwalk was extremely busy, the thermal environment was unique and enjoyable despite the crowds. Given the sulfuric smell and heavy crowds, we didn’t stay very long.

Continuing the theme of heavy crowds, after leaving Artist Paintpots, we headed to perhaps Yellowstone’s most popular attraction, Old Faithful. While the geyser viewing area was absolutely packed with tourists, and this would normally not be my scene whatsoever, Dirk and I found great enjoyment in listening to American tourists from the southern states interact with each other and try to sort their cameras and other shit out in anticipation for the geyser to blow. We waited for the geyser to erupt for about a half hour, before it finally began. I was anticipating Old Faithful to be overrated, and was honestly expecting to be underwhelmed. However, perhaps because my expectations were low, I was quite surprised by the magnitude of the geyser. That said, the American tourist banter was easily the best part of the Old Faithful experience.

Now a bit hungry, the four of us left Old Faithful and headed out to find ourselves somewhere to have a picnic and then go on a hike. To be quite honest, I can’t remember the name of the day-use area we made our lunch at and parked the car before our hike, but regardless, we enjoyed a nice lunch break away from the crowds, and then did a shortish hike through a pine forest to a tranquil lake, spotting a cinnamon black bear on our way. After the hike, we headed back to our campsite for a bit of relaxation.

As if our day hadn’t been full enough, as the late afternoon approached, we decided to make the drive to catch sunset at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. We drove across the park, arriving at the Canyon as a storm began to close in on us. I practically sprinted across the parking lot in order to snap off a few shots before the impending storm, and was happy with my success, getting some of the photos I’d specifically been hoping for before departing on the roadtrip as a whole. We explored around the canyon for a bit and then the storm hit us hard.

As it had early when we awoke that morning, thunder and torrential downpour struck. The sky became incredibly dark, as we began the trip home, this time taking the southern route this time, heading towards Yellowstone Lake. We drove across the plains, with the dark clouds obscuring any sunlight and shrouding us in darkness, with the only break in the darkness being oncoming headlights and the cracking of lightning above us. As we got closer to the lake, however, the storm began to fade, and clear skies and evening light began to break through. We stopped at the lake to watch the last bit of pink leave the now clear sky, before continuing back to Madison Campground where we miraculously found our tents dry, with the storm somehow bypassing this area of the park. We then enjoyed each other’s company before falling asleep, looking forward to a longer sleep than the night before.

People in this blog: Danielle’s Instagram.

BONUS STORY: Normally the following story wouldn’t really fit the narrative of a blog post of mine, but we got so much enjoyment out of quoting it that it would be a sin to not include it here. Thus, please enjoy the following true story.

So after we returned to camp after our long day of exploration, we made a delicious dinner and relaxed at our site, playing games, chatting, and enjoying some Montana beers we’d picked up in West Yellowstone. As the night wore on, it was time for us to retire to our tents, and I headed to the nearby washroom to brush my teeth.

The building in question was your typical park bathroom built of cement, split down the middle with men’s and women’s sides. The layout of the men’s washroom was as such: the entrance was on the left of the building, and immediately through the door was two sinks/mirrors, and to the right of those, two urinals, and then to the right of those, three stalls. As I approach the door to the washroom, a young adult male (probably between ages 19-23) is standing in the doorway about to exit, just as I’m about to enter.

As I walk in, I hear from the nearest stall, the voice of an approx. 50-something year old man with a thick southern accent exclaim to the boy in the doorway, “Johnny! Can you go grab me some shorts out my dufflebag!”

Johnny then exited the building fully, while saying something in agreeance, vanishing into the darkness. I then look to my right, to see a small child, probably around the age of four, messing around on the ground in the muck and the mire of your typical public washroom. As I nervously begin to brush my teeth, I hear rustling and grunting coming from the stall, and the young boy, sitting just outside the door, says — again in a thick southern accent, “Daddy, why is Johnny getting clothes for you?”

The man, clearly struggling to what I assume was undress, replies matter-of-factually to his young son, “Well, Daddy’s made a mess of himself. I done pissed my shorts.”

At this point I’m was both dying of laughter internally, but also weirded right out, and decided that was enough teeth brushing for me. I finished up, and left the bathroom, heading back towards our site. As I’m walking back, Dirk is approaching the washroom in order to brush his teeth. In passing I say, “good luck in there” and head back to camp.

Later, Dirk returned, and mentioned how there was a rough sounding southern man in the stall talking to a small child on the floor of the bathroom. I told him and the girls what happened while I was in there and we all had a good long laugh about it. Dirk said Johnny never returned with any replacement shorts while he was in there.

Some reflections on my roadtrip across the western United States

Last week, I stood in the middle of the caldera of a supervolcano, walked on rocks billions of years old, and traveled back in time simply by driving down a mountain. I looked a bison in the eye at five yards. I witnessed the final resting place of a 12 million-year-old fossilized horse buried in volcanic ash. I saw a rainbow emerging from a mighty thundercloud -- powerful with a little bit of tender. I talked civilly with red hatters in red states and found some common ground at least. I drove across the western United States, from Iowa to Oregon, over the course of 10 days. Here is some of what I saw and learned.

Biggest surprise of the trip, part 1: The Bighorn Mountains and The Bighorn National Forest. I had planned to just drive though, up and over, on my way to Yellowstone, but I ended up stopping here for quite a while. The Bighorns aren't as spectacular as Yellowstone or some of the other park, but it's a hell of a lot less crowded. I'd go back and spend a few days here easy.

Surprisingly, despite spending 57 hours in the car, I was not bored a single minute of my trip. I marveled at the landscape, played music, and thought. I thought a lot. I expected to listen to a bunch of audiobooks but only managed to finish one I was most of the way through and the first third of another...the landscape was just too distracting most of the time. My experience leads me to believe I might be a good candidate for a solo Mars mission (aside from the one-way thing).

Animals seen on my trip, a partial list: rabbits, prairie dogs, antelope, ducks, geese, pelicans, pheasants, a moose, a wolf, elk, bison, deer, and a bunch of birds I couldn't identify. The prairie dogs sat near their holes peeping at each other...it was really cute. The moose was a juvenile male in Yellowstone who looked lost & confused; he trotted alongside the road for a bit, then swam across the river and took off into the woods. I was apprehensive about not seeing a bison on my trip, but I shouldn't have worried...Yellowstone was lousy with 'em. Pro tip: bring a good pair of binoculars, possibly left over from eclipse-watching.

Yellowstone was one of the highlights (with a caveat that I'll get to in a second). A single park containing all these different landscapes, from volcanic wastelands to mountain peaks to verdant river valleys to evergreen forests to grasslands...it's a geographic marvel. But here's the but: it's also really crowded in the summer. At times, it felt like a nature mall, with herds of consumers moving from the bison shop to the geyser store. Reminded me a bit of my experience at the Louvre, itself a wonderful place too crowded to enjoy.

Final roadtrip stats: 2748 miles driven in 10 days and a total of 57 hours in the car. 718 photos and videos taken. I visited seven states -- Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, and Oregon -- and spent at least one night in each save Idaho. Lowest point: 810'. Highest point: 11,070'.

Somewhere west of the Missouri River, which separates Iowa & Missouri from Nebraska & Kansas, the dominance in the eastern US of human activity & organization gives way to geology and geography. Even in the sparser areas of the Midwest, you look down from an airplane and see the Jefferson grid: square parcels of land, each with a group of buildings contained somewhere within it. Further west, hills and mountains and volcanoes and rivers and streams and forests and plains dominate the landscape and how people move within it. The West is not yet tamed, not by a long shot, and acknowledging this goes a long way toward understanding the people who live here.

Biggest surprise of the trip, part 2: High altitude wildflower meadows. When I stopped my car at a scenic overlook at 9400' in the Bighorn Mountains and saw a path down a gentle slope through a meadow of wildflowers growing very close to the ground, I didn't think a whole lot about it. Pretty scene, right? I grabbed my daypack from the car and as soon as I stepped down onto the path and into the meadow, this amazing smell sent me reeling. For 20 minutes, I walked in an olfactory daze to the crest of the next hill and back. OMG, what an amazing sensation...a definite high-water mark.

The speed limit on the freeways in South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho was 80 mph. On some rural undivided two-lane highways, the limit was still 70 mph, which I found astounding. But the lanes and the shoulders were way wider than in Vermont, the roads flatter and straighter, and traffic was few and far between most of the time. Still, even just that little extra speed really cuts down on drivers' potential reaction times.

I had high hopes for the Badlands, and it lived up to the hype. Magnificent desolation, accessible, and not super crowded. I could (and probably should) have spent a couple of days there easy.

Food was not a highlight or a focus of this trip, mostly because I didn't spend a tremendous amount of time seeking out good places to eat. I had some Thai lettuce wraps w/ bison in SD that were pretty good, some just-fine sushi in Missoula, and a delicious tostada scramble in Rhododendron, OR. Maybe the best thing I ate was a homemade breakfast burrito I bought at a gas station in Red Lodge, Montana. It was a struggle to find non-meat things to eat -- I'm not a vegetarian, but man cannot subsist on burgers & hot dogs & steaks & BBQ for a week and a half w/o GI discomfort. With some notable exceptions, food in the US is more homogenous than ever...you can get anything almost anywhere.

Biggest surprise of the trip, part 3: The hosts at the B&B I stayed at in Wyoming advised me to enter Yellowstone via the Beartooth Highway and I am so glad I took their advice. The 68-mile drive was called "the most beautiful drive in America" by former CBS correspondant Charles Kuralt and he might be right. At the top of the pass, you drive just short of 11,000' above sea level; I climbed above the 11K mark for a stunning 360° view of the entire area. Reader, I may have done the arms-wide-on-the-bow-of-the-Titanic gesture on top of a rock at the top of the world...no apologies.

About 5 minutes after I checked into my B&B near Cody, WY, I looked out my window to see a rain cloud off in the distance with a rainbow coming out of it. Chuckling, I asked my host if that was a common occurence around here. "Pretty much," he replied, "especially with climate change." A life-long resident of the area, he went on to explain that it rains a lot more there now than "20-30 years ago". "See all that grass out there? It's supposed to be brown this time of year."

Several people told me before my trip that Devils Tower was worth the effort, but as I spotted it off in the distance on my approach, I had my doubts. But as it got closer, I realized they'd all been right. Totally crazy geological thing worth seeing in the flesh.

At a gas station in southern South Dakota, a man noticed the Texas plates on my rental car and asked, "What's the price of gas in Texas these days?" I explained my situation, and he said, "I'm from Texas originally and I can tell by your accent that you ain't. What're ya doing in this godforsaken country?"

In Wyoming, I stayed less than a mile from the Heart Mountain Relocation Center, a WWII Japanese American confinement site. From 1942 to 1945, this concentration camp held almost 14,000 people, making it the third-largest town in Wyoming at the time. The majority were American citizens and had done nothing wrong and committed no crimes...they were put there for being of Japanese heritage. I regret that my plans didn't allow for a visit; if I'd had known beforehand that it was going to be so close, I would have made the time, given our present administration's treatment of its Muslim citizens and asylum seekers from Central and South America. As Faulkner said, "The past is never dead. It's not even past."

I saw some cool thunderstorms:

If I had a time machine, I would tell myself from two weeks ago to skip Mt Rushmore, Wind Cave, and the volcanic stuff in Yellowstone. And perhaps Wall Drug. I also would have opted to fly out of Salt Lake City instead of Portland, OR to give me more time to explore Montana and Wyoming...the trip ended up having too much driving and not enough being out in nature.

You can see more photos from my trip on Instagram and in this saved Instagram Story. I feel very lucky to have had the time and resources to take this trip. It definitely took me out of my comfort zone in both good ways and bad -- the journey definitely wasn't all sunshine and lollipops, despite what my photos might indicate. To many of us, it seems like a perilous time in our nation's history, with many debts, old and new, coming due in rapid-fire succession. Doing this roadtrip reminded me of many great things about this country & the people who live in it and gave me the time & space to ponder how I fit into the puzzle, without the din of the news and social media. If you can manage it, I encourage you all to do the same, even if it's just visiting someplace close that you've never been to: get out there and see the world and visit with its people. This world is all we have, and the more we see of it, the better we can make it.

African Travel Suggestions When Visiting Kenya

The recent Kenya elections have led to large fallout in the country and past. The main international airports embrace; Jomo Kenyatta Worldwide Airport, Moi Worldwide Airport and Eldoret International Airport. Mombasa is on the same time zone as the remainder of Kenya. Most of such safaris would invariably be the price range type. The country is called after Mount Kenya, the second highest mountain in Africa. As you take pleasure in game viewing within the infinite plains of the Mara reserve, you should have a chance to see the large five(lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and make your tour a true African safari. For these planning a whole lot of journey by public transport or trekkers, a backpack is advisable. In Malindi, there's the most effective Sea Fishing in the African Content the place you will find sailfish. Forex Kenyan shilling (KSH) at present around Ksh67 per USD. This place is good for snorkeling, diving, fishing and surfing. Areas which might be more prone in cities are slums like Kibera in Nairobi the place there may be very poor sanitation and lack of sufficient piped water which always results in outbreaks of typhoid and Cholera. A yellow fever vaccination is advisable if the traveller comes from an infected nation or area. With many airways flying to Kenya, this airport has grow to be a travel hub for East and Central Africa. Why not spend a while in the park and take a look at the elephants, leopards and cheetahs, and naturally the lions. Packing for a trip to Kenya requires some careful thought and consideration. Right here you'll be able to calm down in the abandoned beaches away from the outside world. Residence stays have come to be the best choice in Kenya budget travel. Probably the most famous locations to view wildlife is Kenya, and what better approach to see it than on a safari. For more up close views, you can take a tundra buggy (a transformed faculty bus) into the migratory packs for a fast day-journey. The three nationwide parks function a stopover for migrant waterfowl and are major breeding grounds for the Nile crocodile, hippopotamus and a wide range of venomous snakes. Subsequently, the Federation of Tour Operators cancelled all holidays to Kenya, and lots of people previously booked to go to the fascinating country were left with no possibility however to cancel, and hurriedly verify the small print of their worldwide journey insurance insurance policies! However, it is the recreation reserves that most people visit Kenya to see, and that adventure vacationers to Kenya are particularly concerned about, so take a aircraft experience over the Meru Nationwide Park and land near Elsa's Kopje - a rocky outcrop on Mughwangi Hill in the Meru Park, where Elsa was launched by Pleasure and George Adamson back in 1958. This area is ideal for walks, picnics, trout fishing, tenting and night time game viewing. Most persons coming to Kenya would love a possibility to visit this wildlife reserve. It additionally has a Safari Stroll - a really unique facility that permits one to see almost all the animals of the jungle in just a short walk! From April 2009 to November 2009, the range has been roughly 1USD: KES74.00 to 1USD: KES80.00. Most banks supply extra competitive rates than inns however the numerous international alternate bureaus obtainable in Mombasa will most likely offer you the very best charges with out a fee charge. Due to altitude and topographical differences of the varied areas, these seasons and temperatures aren't uniform and range greatly. Malinda is another a part of Kenya you should not miss: located on the Indian Ocean Malinda affords Hemingway's a luxurious resort that gives the perfect private service. Up to now there have been 600 deaths and some 250,000 folks (greater than the alleged 'majority' of Kibaki) fleeing their houses. Hotel bill funds- This can be often be paid in shillings or convertible foreign forex. There are common worldwide flights into Mombasa's Moi International Airport however extra choices can be found for flights into Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi, from where you may connect with Mombasa. The kind of luxurious you may expertise on these journeys is unbelievably excessive, and journey travel to Kenya shouldn't be all safaris and living tough. The long coral seashores and the Malindi Nationwide park are the highlights of this stunning Island. Many of the times they're dearer but you could still get a very good deal for those who guide early. When planning your journey to Kenya, you need to consider taking injections so that you do not contract any ailments. A component from this, there are different journey locations where you may spend your holidays and have complete journey. The islands are surrounded by sea lions, seals, grey whales and humpback whales. However, in case you are touring alone and don't mind joining other like-minded, although strangers on safaris, you may break by the price barrier and luxuriate in magnificent safaris. The vast mouth of the coastal waters at Kilifi Creek makes Mombasa a great place for crusing and there are yachts in addition to trained crew obtainable for hire. When going out on a safari, it could be well worth it to go to the supermarket in the beginning of your journey and purchase some things. When Hudson Bay freezes, between October and November, this town is overrun with polar bears as they journey their migration path. On the Central Business District, you can visit the Kenya Nationwide Archives the place you'll peruse by way of most of the documented Kenyan info, this contains the well-known folks, historic events like the construction of the rail line from Mombasa to Uganda. Use it as a base for a trip to Lamu Island, which used to be a base for the slave trade, and on which the only means of travel other than foot is by donkey. The Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica is a brilliant rain forest that comprises over a hundred,000 acres of land and 5,000 acres of marine habitat. Another space nice for water animals is Glacier Bay in Alaska. In addition to land tours, you can even take a sea kayak across the park and see coral reefs, fish, dolphins, whales and sea turtles. It's at all times advisable to analysis your destination and what may be required of you before you plan your journey so as to avoid a scenario where you might be unprepared for certain conditions. Theodore Roosevelt is a much less well-known park and due to this fact gives nice viewing of bison, wild horses, deer and elk with out all the crowds. You can camp within the park for higher game viewing and images. Visit the magnificent Fort Jesus and harbour, see the Arab architecture in Previous City and scent the scent of spices. Subsequently, all travel to the nation was advised against, and a lot of people needed to say on their international travel insurance, which was confusing given the bizarre circumstances. Additionally do not miss the Mombasa Marine Nationwide Park, the Moi Avenue gateway arch, dhow cruises and the beaches. Mombasa is a excessive-threat area for Malaria and you will need to take a course of anti-malarial tablets. This situation was hardly secure for guests coming to Kenya. Though English is also widely spoken, it is helpful to know some common words and phrases to make use of whilst visiting Mombasa. During your keep in Mombasa, I suggest always requesting for bottled water to drink as opposed to the faucet water which is typically questionable. Moi worldwide airport -The airport is about 10 minutes from the town middle enable an additional half -an-hour on your journey to the south coast due to the ferry crossing. I think it is the warnings about how rooster tikka recipe needs to be made that turns individuals off, which by the best way is just not totally correct; you possibly can't simply fix it and forget it, but you also needn't slave over it both. A combination of the exotic seashores, marine life, world-class hotels, beautiful Islands and the friendly individuals of Mombasa make your journey an entire journey. Overseas currency reminiscent of US dollars, British pounds and Deutschmarks will be exchanged at banks, bureaux de change and authorized lodges. Make full use of the view level and go to the Euphobia forest. It boasts a large fowl species and The Big Five that is Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and the Rhino which gives you every motive to travel to Kenya. From my analysis I've come up with a listing of a number of the finest locations to go to if viewing animals in nature is your goal. The Masai, Pokot and the Turkana communities are good examples of itineraries the place you possibly can learn and practice among the cultural activities. If you are travelling by home/chartered flights inside Kenya, do not forget that there are baggage restrictions, particularly on smaller aircraft. Calvin Cottar is without doubt one of the greatest guides in the country, and will take you on a recreation drive in a 4WD or perhaps a more traditional ox cart. Jomo Kenyatta is the main arrival level for all visitors flying to Kenya. Marsabit National Park is the most remote national park in Kenya, positioned in a desert region. After a current go to to Yellowstone Nationwide Park, this felt especially true for me. A traffic jam caused by young buffalo calves and their mothers crossing the road is an expertise to not be missed. On the Tsavo Nationwide Park, (the biggest Park within the country), you will find massive herds of Elephants, volcanic hills and rivers. There have been efforts by the government of Kenya to attempt to eradicate Malaria by providing free drugs and this may really help in decreasing this disease. 4 climatic zones exist: tropical, equatorial, semi-desert and desert. Wildlife has made this East African nation some of the favourite tourist points of interest on this planet. There aren't any restrictions on the quantity of international forex that may be introduced into Kenya, but taking out more than 500,000 Kenya Shillings requires written authorization from the Central Bank. Yellow fever can be prevalent in Kenya and what you are able to do to protect your self from this is by taking the Yellow Fever injection which usually lasts within the physique for a really very long time and is mostly recommended for travelers who're planning to stay within the country for a considerably long time. Attempt to get a private deal, with just the two of you touring, relatively than being half of a giant group, and make sure that your travel is commensurate with the luxurious you might be in search of: a minimal of business class flights, and first-class rail and road journey the place it is involved. Some components of the country are more vulnerable to disease outbreaks and so it's best to arm your self with the required injections. cheap flights to florida Mombasa enjoys a pleasant tropical climate throughout the year with the hottest months between December to April hitting a most of 31C and the cooler months between July and August with highs of 27C. Use our personalised Kenya Travel kit to print data of all this information. Sibiloi Park is Positioned at the border of the Kenya and Ethiopia. Mombasa locals use rickshaws (tuk tuks), matatus (minivans) and boda boda (bicycles) to get across the town. During your stay right here in Kenya, your lodging shall be in the best lodges, hotels and luxury tented camps the place you'll be served delicious food and drinks. These will likely be much cheaper than consuming out at exotic restaurants or motels. Wildlife and the Kenyan beaches are the principle highlights of tourist attraction. Nairobi has rather a lot provide any individual seeking adventure travel to Kenya, and you do not have to journey to unknown places to discover some of Kenya's finest saved secrets and techniques. Exhausting suitcases are very best, but can take up lots of space. Your accommodation must be the best obtainable, and the small private lodges are often the perfect. The various employees in all of the fields of tourism are trained at Utalii School which is a acknowledged center of excellence. All travellers to Kenya ought to visit their personal physicians or well being clinics four-eight weeks earlier than departure. The park is a forested mountain rising up out of the surrounding desert. This vaccination is to be taken at least two weeks earlier than you make that journey to Kenya.