Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: VINTAGE MOURNING FINE COSTUME DESIGNER JEWELRY LOT.

Tokens of Affection 3 - Hair Work

Hair jewelry is perhaps the least romantic part of my “Tokens of Affection” series, but no less sentimental.

While lovers, friends, and family members have traded locks of hair throughout history, hair jewelry gained popularity in the Victorian era as a way to mourn deceased loved ones. Locks of hair could be twisted, braided, or woven and held behind glass, as seen in the brooches here. More elaborate were the hollow beads and tubes that could be woven out of long strands of hair and made into bracelets or watch chains.

i love thrifting i just found a ring with an unidentified blood red stone that the lady said was ‘probably cursed’. it was $24.

also, other cool/cursed finds:

- elvis baseball card (that i didn’t buy but still... cursed.)

-small glass cat that looks like mine uwu

- a hat that makes me look like a victorian widow in mourning (who also may be a vampire)

- (two) silver goblets that look exactly like something that lestat would use

- a bracelet with beads that have catholic fixtures on them. i told the lady i could make some wicked saint sebastian earrings out of them and she just straight-up gave me the bracelet

- last, but not least, a matching choker, small necklace, earrings, and a ring. they look decidedly vampiric. they’re also cursed.

Identifying Black Materials Used in Victorian Jewelry

By Troy Segal, Updated 05/04/19

In fashion, the color black became big in the 1800s both as a fashion statement and as mourning jewelry, a term referencing pieces deemed appropriate to wear during the long period of tribute to a dearly departed relative. Jewelers used many different black substances to create these pieces and often they're hard to distinguish, especially as some were developed deliberately to imitate rare, natural materials.

This feature explores a number of varieties of Victorian black jewelry, with tips on recognizing them, compiled with the help of Lisa Stockhammer, president of The Three Graces (www.georgianjewelry.com), and Pamela Y. Wiggins, antiques expert and author of Warman's Costume Jewelry.

Berlin iron consists of wires of sand-cast iron, often lacquered in black, which gives them an inky, matte finish. Characterized by large but finely-wrought designs that have a lacy or cobweb-like look, "it's also magnetic and cool to the touch," Stockhammer said. Sections are connected with loops or rings, never soldered, as the wires were too delicate (so be wary of a piece with obvious signs of soldering). Pieces may be stamped with the manufacturer's name (Geiss and Edward Schott were two of the best-known), and despite the lacquer, may show signs of rust.

This type of jewelry was developed in Germany around 1800 and primarily made there, though also manufactured in France, Austria and what is now the Czech Republic. It first became popular as a patriotic symbol in 1813. As part of the Prussian war effort against Napoleon I, women were encouraged to exchange their articles of gold and precious stones for pieces made of iron (some of which were even inscribed "I gave gold for iron" in German). Jewelry in the early decades of the 19th century were made in Neoclassical or Georgian style (cameos, foliage, motifs from Greek or Roman mythology). In ensuing decades, iron jewelry was often used for mourning jewelry, and changed stylistically to reflect the current Gothic Revival tastes (pointy arches, trefoils, quatrefoils).

Like jet, bog oak is wood (actual oak, fir, pine or yew) that has been fossilized in peat marshes or bogs so that it turns hard and black or very dark brown in color. It's also lightweight and warm to the touch, but it usually has a matte finish, as opposed to jet's usual gleaming polish, according to Stockhammer. 

Usually from Ireland, bog oak was used for jewelry beginning in the early 1800s but became more popular in the mid-19th century. This is especially true after 1852 when techniques to mass-mold and decorate it (applying hydraulic or heated pressure to the dried wood) were invented. Although used for mourning jewelry as an economic substitute for ​jet, it was also worn to support Irish crafts, with pieces often carved or stamped with Gaelic motifs like harps or shamrocks (which would not be considered mourning jewelry). More elegant articles might be studded with pearls or gold.

Cut steel (actually more dark gray than black in color) pieces consist of cast-steel studs and beads that are pierced or faceted, then arranged in patterns and packed closely together, and finally screwed or riveted, onto a metal back. The "backs appear to be honeycombed with tiny pins," as Stockhammer puts it. Cut steel feels cool to the touch, and should have grayish sparkle. There also may be signs of rust.

This technique was developed in England in the early 1600s, originally for buckles and buttons. Cut steel began assuming other forms by the 1760s, including rings, brooches, bracelets and frames for Wedgwoodmedallions and cameos. Matthew Boulton was an early famed maker of cut steel jewelry. Later pieces feature the riveted construction as opposed to having the studs screwed into place, both steel and copper were used for backings.

Though obviously less expensive than pieces made with precious stones, cut steel jewelry wasn't simply a substitute. The well-to-do often wore it, especially in the later half of the 19th century, when its subtle glitter made it ideal for "second mourning" (a later, less intensive stage of mourning dress). By the 1880s, the French had assumed the lead in cut steel jewelry manufacture, turning out intricate pavé-set pieces.

French Jet is black, or extremely dark red, glass rather than a natural substance like true jet. It feels cool, heavy and hard, and has a highly polished glitter. Stones made of this material are often backed with metal foil and glued, fused or soldered onto a metal setting.

French jet beads are sometimes roughly molded or hand faceted to look like jet, but will be heavier in weight and cold to the touch when compared to the warmth of genuine jet. "If you have a loupe, and detect any chips, they will be curved, striated and almost oval in shape - like a chip in a mirror or glass," Stockhammer noted of French jet. 

Developed in the early 19th century and perfected in the 1860s, this type of glass was manufactured in France - hence the name - though also in Austria, England, Germany, and what is now the Czech Republic. Because it was much cheaper to produce than authentic jet, French jet became the premier source of modestly-priced mourning and fashion jewelry, like the sash pin shown here, during this period.

Gutta Percha is a rubber-like gum made of the resin derived from trees in Southeast Asia, mainly Malaysia. Like its synthetic cousin, vulcanite, it is brownish-black in appearance (but tended to hold its black matte color over time better), and is molded rather than carved -- so, "sometimes you can detect mold lines, with the eye or a loupe," Stockhammer notes. It will give off an acrid, rubber smell when rubbed briskly.

Highly flexible yet durable, it was first used in the 1840s for jewelry. In the latter 19th century, it was employed as a less expensive substitute for jet in mourning jewelry.

Jet, a type of fossilized wood, was perhaps the rarest and most prized black material used to manufacture Victorian jewelry. It is light in weight and soft and warm to the touch.

Seen under a loupe, it often has tiny, distinctive fissures or chips that differ from French jet (glass). Natural jet can be carved or faceted, but even when precisely cut, it shines rather than sparkles. Keep in mind, however, that jet jewelry meant for first mourning will be matte black rather than shiny, and not all jet jewelry was made for mourning. Victorian fashion jewelry was also made of jet.

Black onyx is a type of quartz or chalcedony. It "can be confused for French jet," Stockhammer says, as it too is a bit heavy, cool to the touch and highly polished to a very glossy finish. Jet which can also have a shiny surface, in comparison, is light in weight. 

Most black onyx in jewelry is actually dyed black so the color is very even, which can be noted when it is studied with a jeweler's loupe.

Vulcanite is a type of vulcanized rubber formed by combining sulphur and India rubber, then heating the mixture for several hours. Charles Goodyear is credited with developing the process, which he patented in 1844. Vulcanite can be white or of various colors. As a result, in the mid and late-19th century, the hard substance was often used to imitate coral, tortoiseshell, and jet - especially the latter, as dark pieces became more popular, especially with the prevalence of mourning jewelry.

Like jet, it's lightweight and warm or room temperature to the touch. But while it can be polished to a nice sheen, vulcanite is never quite as glossy as actual polished jet. Most vulcanite pieces are molded, as opposed to carved, and might seem more espresso-colored than black - the material turned brown over time and exposure to sunlight.

Stockhammer offers this tip: When rubbed against unglazed tile or the bottom of a piece of porcelain, vulcanite leaves a brown streak (but such tests should be performed carefully to avoid damaging the surface of a piece of jewelry). This method is not foolproof, however, since jet can behave similarly. Look at all the attributes of a piece before assuming it is vulcanite. 

Pamela Y. Wiggins, author of Warman's Costume Jewelry, contributed to this article. 

12 Excellent Reference Books for Collecting Vintage Costume Jewellery in the UK

You have a thirst for knowledge and want to recognize extra approximately the vintage dress jewelry for your series.  Remodelling jewellery But which e book to shop for in case you are living inside the UK?

There are masses of reference books to select from and maximum have been written in the US by authors who have a collection primarily based in the US. How specific is that to us within the UK?

So here is a brief manual of 12 books to give an excellent over view of expertise from Victorian via to the eighties and past. Actually there are greater than 12 books right here, because a few authors have written more than one book this is beneficial.

This manual have to cover wellknown unsigned pieces and a few signed portions of jewellery. However there aren't any particular books ever written for the majority of the mass produced signed dress jewellery made via UK groups or made for the United Kingdom market aside from Wilson and Butler.

1. Costume Jewellery: A Collectors Guide via Caroline Behr (Miller's) (ISBN 1-84000-373-1)

A exact vicinity initially a general over view and time line from Victorian, Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, 1950s, Czech, Austrian and some designers. Easy to read and has properly pix. Hand bag length and ideal to examine at the educate

2. Vintage Costume Jewellery: A Passion for fabulous Fakes by Carol Tanenbaum (ISBN 1-85149-511-8)

A have to to buy and has the time line with improved information. Includes Art Nouveau, Birmingham silver, system, intro to Bakelite and plastic and a glossary. Loads of desirable snap shots however none of the backs (a have to for identity but not often protected in any book)

three. Secrets To Collecting Jewelry: How to BUY MORE for much less! With the aid of Leigh Leshner (ISBN 0-89689-180-1)

Again a time line and over view via history but an absolute gem of a e book because it has indicates the backs and mechanism or findings which can be crucial to courting jewellery. This e-book seems at style and substances with precise images. Prom jewelry, artwork plastic, retro, production strategies, Scandinavian, cameos. Mostly short data but a excellent visible guide. US e book with $ rate guide (2005). Another terrifi ebook to read at the bus or teach as fits into your bag.

Four. Jewels and Jewellery Clare Phillips (V & A) (ISBN 978-1-85177-535-four) or Jewellery: The Decorative Arts Library edited by using Janet Swarbrick (ISBN 1-902328-13-2)

Could now not decide which of those UK books was the most informative. So have I even have protected each

Jewels and Jewellery consists of substances, a chronology of styles and manufacturing and distribution. Photographs of museum and pieces. Includes silver filigree, Berlin Iron, pearls, glass and teeth. Faith jewellery, cut metal, mourning and love jewellery now not simply jet or bog oak. Lalique, Ashbee, Liberty Cymric, Wilson, Gaskins and a time line pre Victorian to the 2000s.

Jewellery is a visual birthday celebration of the world's awesome jewelry making strategies. From the historical international until 1989. Full of statistics and images with more unique references to Jewellery inside the UK.

5. Popular Jewelry of the '60s, '70s & '80s via Roseann Ettinger (ISBN zero-7643-2470-5)

Three many years of jewelry displaying fashion and political developments that influenced the designs. US ebook with $ fee guide (2006) The majority of antique jewellery discovered is from this era and so makes this book useful to read. Well illustrated with pieces which are recognizable here inside the UK. Including Mod jewellery, japanese influence, Pop Art, novelty, revival pieces, love beads, Art Metal, jade, plastic, wooden and pave. The creator has produced other reference books on different a long time which can be well worth making an investment in.

6. Collecting Art Plastic Jewelry by way of Leigh Leshner (ISBN zero-87349-954-9)

Bakelite is rare to discover in jewelry in such quantities and range as in the States. It is beneficial to recognize and notice the type of designs plastic has been used or with other materials. Celluloid, Lucite, thermoset, thermoplastic, laminated, reverse carved are greater generally determined here within the UK and effortlessly over appeared. This e book does make you examine plastic accessories in an entire new light. Does no longer comprise sufficient statistics on galalith, the early plastic type this is greater commonplace inside the UK. For this examine books on Jakob Bengel.

7. Collecting Costume Jewelry 303: The turn aspect Exploring gown jewelry from the back by using Julia C Carroll. (ISBN 978-1-57432-626-0)

This is the ebook that gets to the fundamentals need to have expertise of vintage dress jewellery. The distinctive components such as the stones and cabochons that may be precious in courting and hardware clues that can be missed. Cameos, rhinestones, signed jewelry and pictures of the signatures, artwork glass, pin backs and a lot greater. I examine this book and always discover some thing that I have now not observed earlier than. One of my most valuable books in terms of information. Also has a segment of designers which include Jonette Jewelry Co (JJ) that aren't always discovered in different books. US book with $ price guides (2010)

Julia Carroll has produced different books together with Costume Jewelry one zero one and 202 on this extreme. Both books are well really worth having for reference as well.

8. Baubles, Buttons and Beads: The Heritage of Bohemia by Sibelle Jargstorf (ISBN 0-88740-467-7)

This is some other gem of a book; as we had an abundance of antique jewelry imported into this united states of america from Bohemia up till the Second World War and then in smaller portions after. Still available to find and collect but costs are rising. Sections on buttons, filigree, glass beads, plastic and glass cameos, 1930s, tooth and greater importantly the records. After studying this e-book it has helped me date and identify cameos, filigree brooches and brightly coloured rhinestone jewelry of the 1920s and 30s. Hand completed and system made get dressed clips and the extraordinary finishes used.

Sibylle Jargstorf has produced other books on beads and glass which are priceless.

9. Cameos: A Pocket Guide by Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements (ISBN 0-7643-1728-eight)

Although there are numerous books on cameos, this small packet manual is full of cameos in materials other than shell. Shell is the most accumulated cameo jewellery kind however for me it did no longer have an appeal. I wanted to recognise greater about the glass, plastic, metallic and gemstone cameos that I become locating. How to become aware of the substances used and while had been they made. This e book has an abundance of photographs covering a big amount of cameos in those substances and extra importantly recognizable for the UK marketplace. US e-book with $ rate guide (2003) For greater extensive data on cameo jewellery then acquire any of the versions of Cameos: Old and New by means of Anna M Miller.

10. Victorian Jewellery by using Margaret Flowers (No ISBN)

Not a e book on antique but vintage jewelry that is now out of print but nonetheless available in numerous editions. First published in 1951 however well well worth analyzing. Insight into the Victorian influences and visible in revival portions. Birmingham's position in mass produced jewellery. This ebook is often sited in later books as being influential. Has the Victorian length in three parts and each segment has the maximum used motifs of that duration. Did make me chuckle at the sheer snobbish mind-set of the author at times however well worth analyzing. Few pics and in general in black and white that aren't that clear.

Eleven. Scottish Jewellery: A Victorian Passion by Diana Scarisbrick

Scottish jewellery is found in abundance inside the UK. From the mid nineteenth century with the upward thrust in recognition, had factories in Scotland and England churning out designs and portions within the lots. This persisted into the past due 20th century generally in Birmingham. This book is a great introduction. Not as extensive as might have been and do not assume facts on vintage Scottish memento jewellery from Miracle, The Ward Brothers, Exquisite or Hollywood. Pages of pictures of agate and silver brooches and bracelets. But complex via the image guide on the quit of the book. A suitable starter book to understand Scottish motifs.

12. Warman's Jewelry: Fine & Costume Jewelry 4Th Edition by means of Kathy Flood (ISBN 1-4402-0801-eight)

This is the 4Th edition of the Warman's Jewelry Identification and Price Guide. So 3 different books to attain and read. In this version two centuries are blanketed with pearls, figural, cameos, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and plastic. The difference among Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian jewellery. Again web page after web page of jewellery pix. Good mix of clean antique, vintage and present day jewellery. A blend of worldwide extensive designs hat I observed relevant to the UK. US e book with $ charge manual (2010)

This is only a quick reference of fashionable books for vintage jewellery with a view to exchange as extra books come onto the market or I find out out of print books. Then there are extra precise books on Bengal, Avon, Sarah Coventry, Egyptian Revival jewellery, Haskell, D & E, Wilson & Butler and such a lot of extra to examine

Even with this amount of information I still feel that I actually have simply skimmed the surface. As stated formerly there's a lack of data on jewelry from Ciro Pearls, Sphinx, Exquisite, Miracle, Hollywood, Thomas Le Mott and plenty of other organizations that mass produced jewelry on this u . S . Within the 20th century, that is now very collectible global huge.

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Full of dramatic jewelry has become the new darling of fashion [email protected]

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