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keith-mizuguchi · 3 years
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Goodbye (For Now) LA
I love Los Angeles.  I feel like there’s so much I got a chance to experience and so much that I’ve missed.  It probably hasn’t helped that I’ve lived here for the past year during a pandemic.  But I feel so very fortunate to have called it home for the past 2+ years.  That’s my long way of saying goodbye.
As many of you may know, I’ve started a new job.  I’m working as Producer for The California Report at KQED in the Bay Area.  Two weeks in and I really love it.  I work with a great team who have allowed me to jump in with ideas and eased the transition.  Work from home is a bit strange and actually much harder than I imagined, but I’ve gotten used to it. 
I was at a crossroads in journalism.  While I feel like I’ve always been able to excel at the everyday 24/7 news cycle business, it was never going to give me the opportunities I really wanted to explore.  I want to tell stories of the untold, that impact communities, that go in depth with people, places and ideas.  And I feel like public radio is the place where I can do that.
I wanted to thank all my friends and colleagues at KNX.  They gave me an opportunity to learn and advance my career. I will miss the break neck pace of news in that room, but know this is for the best.
I move back to the Bay Area next week, and even though it seems everyone is speaking poorly of San Francisco right now, it’s going to be my new home.  I’ll have more in the coming days on some of what I loved in Los Angeles.  
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keith-mizuguchi · 4 years
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Kobe
I saw the news and I couldn’t believe it.  I got called in to work when we went to wall-to-wall coverage.  Pulled sound, got people on the air.  But it’s all been a blur  — still is.
I understand many who didn’t love Kobe Bryant.  The sexual assault case, the arrogance, the standoffish way he treated teammates, coaches, media.  He was a ball hog, he was selfish, he was probably not the greatest teammate.
But I had a different view.  We were born a few months apart.  He and I graduated high school the same year.  He was traded to the Lakers and I didn’t know a lot about him.  The Lakers are my favorite sports team.  Growing up in the Bay Area, my first sports memory was the 1984 NBA Finals, Lakers vs. Celtics, Magic, Kareem and Showtime against Bird, McHale and the Celtics.  I remember a game in the Boston Garden when it was so hot, Kareem had to get oxygen on the bench.  I remember when Magic announced he had HIV.  I was in middle school and my grandpa was picking me up and I just cried. Couldn’t stop.  I remember when Shaq signed, and then Phil Jackson came on as coach.  I remember the championships, and the seasons struggling to make the playoffs.  It’s part of the ups and downs of sports.
Magic was my favorite Laker of all-time but I always felt like Kobe and I had a special bond— being the same age, him going straight to the NBA, me going off to school.  I saw him in person a handful of times.  I drove down for two Finals games.  I saw him get his ring one opening night.  I don’t quite know why I loved him so much — but I did.  I loved his work ethic, his obsession with winning, his drive and will — almost like he had a super power.  I respected his knowledge of the game and of basketball history.  He respected many of the greats in the game but also wanted to break all of their records.
I was driving to grab some dinner after work, and get some groceries.  People were talking about Kobe in the restaurant.  He was synonymous with LA — an adopted son of sorts.  He meant so much to the city, the fans, and the Lakers franchise.
I’ll probably cry tonight, and maybe tomorrow and the next day.  Maybe even weeks down the line.  I’ll probably be in a haze for weeks. I pray for all of the families of those killed in the crash. And I’ll never forget Bean.  
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keith-mizuguchi · 4 years
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Year One
It’s been awhile  — I’m sure I’ll eventually get this writing about LA thing down pat.  But it’s been  a busy year.  I’ve enjoyed my time down here in Los Angeles.  There’s so much I love about the city and surrounding area.  I still feel like a newbie — haven’t explored enough.  But hoping to do more of that in the new year.  The things I do love — food, drinks and music — as you’ll see below are still a big part of what I’ve been able to enjoy outside of work.  It’s been a fun year +.  Some highlights below.
WORK
My time at KNX has been a learning experience.  It is one of the most challenging newsrooms to work in — not many people are cut out for the pace.  But I feel like I’ve taken the challenges head-on.  As some of you know, I’m now full-time staff, serving as editor and producer.  It’s rewarding to know that people appreciate the work I’ve done  — that’s not always the case in this business.  We’ve had numerous breaking stories and I think the station has risen to the occasion each time.  Proud to be part of the team.
Outside of KNX — I’ve made a promise to myself to try to branch out and finally write about food this year.  I still feel there are so many stories that need to be told, not only here in LA, but also back up in the Bay.  So I’m preparing to pitch, pitch, pitch to see if I get any bites.
FOOD
I know some will say this is blasphemous, but I think Los Angeles beats the Bay in food and drinks.  It was part of what attracted me to the area.  I love the fact that there is such a wide-range — from expensive tasting menus to inexpensive strip mall restaurants that are out of this world.  One unfortunate thing about both markets — I think you’re going to continue to see a lot of closures in the coming years, many of which will surprise people.  It is really, really challenging for small businesses to survive in these cities.  Not to mention, the competition is fierce and you really have to stand out.  It’s why I respect my friends who are owners and chefs/bartenders.  It can be a brutal, brutal business.  But on to the good — here is some of what I have enjoyed eating and drinking down here (and it can be a decent list if you ever come down to visit).  
Bavel (Arts District) - I’ve been blown away twice by this restaurant.  It is always packed, is plenty loud (probably too loud for many), but the food and service have been terrific.  Middle Eastern cuisine that has so much flavor, it jumps off the plate.  Good cocktails too.
Bon Temps (Arts District) - I had a terrific dinner here.  The dishes are beautifully prepared, almost like art.  Lincoln Carson is obviously known for his pastries so even though I’m not a dessert person, it’s a necessity to save some room.  The one thing about many of the restaurants in the Arts District is they’re built out of warehouses — so they have an industrial feel. But I didn't get that sense here.
Joy (Highland Park) - I loved Pine & Crane and this is their sister restaurant.  Very casual, and for the most part, smaller bites.  Comforting, seasonal Taiwanese food.  It’s weird, but I really love the small seasonal appetizers that they have on display in the deli counter.  They’re delicious.
Ototo (Echo Park) - Easily my favorite bar (they serve sake, lots and lots of sake). The owner Courtney is so knowledgeable and I love picking her brain about some of the choices on the extensive menu.  There are so many interesting and unique sakes on their list — and it changes up quite a bit.  It’s not just sake here as they have a really nice menu of Japanese snacks and food that is quite good.  I have to also mention their restaurant next door, Tsubaki, which has some of the best Japanese food I’ve had here in LA.
Alta Adams (West Adams) - When I think of Alta Adams, I just think I’m being welcomed into the West Adams neighborhood.  Unlike many restaurants, the staff seems like it’s made up of people from this historic neighborhood.  And they treat guests with the hospitality that you would expect if you’re visiting their home.  The food is terrific — just really comforting Southern food.  It’s a lively restaurant and has one of the best vibes in the city.  It’s the perfect fit in the perfect spot for a growing area.
Some of my other favorites that I’ll call standbys — Animal, Petit Trois, Ronan, Here’s Looking at You, Night + Market Song, Guerrilla Tacos, Tsujita, Rose Cafe, Rossoblu, AOC, Apollonia’s Pizzeria, Republique, and every place in Koreatown and San Gabriel Valley.
DRINK
Old Lightning (Marina Del Rey) - It will cost you far more than most places, but this is one of the most unique bars I’ve ever been to in this country.  The spirit list has so many rare and unique bottles, it will make your head spin.  The cocktails are terrific, but I think a tasting is the way to truly “get” this bar.  Reservations only and they do take your phone at the door.
Bibo Ergo Sum (Beverly Grove) - I’d call this my go-to spot if I want a really great drink.  The menu is pretty extensive with lighter and more spirit forward cocktails.  Very cool decor inside with big booths and a half-circle bar.  I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad drink here.
The Varnish (Downtown) - A very cool speakeasy in the back of Cole’s. The best way to order is dealer’s choice and let the bartenders make you something.
The Normandie Club (Koreatown) - Just a good solid bar with a little bit of everything.  You can get a really nice cocktail, a shot and a beer, a glass of wine.  I loved Walker Inn too, which was in a secret door, but it’s since closed.
Gold Line (Highland Park) - First of all, I have a lot of respect for Peanut Butter Wolf, who is one of the owners (he also owns Stones Throw Records).  I love the fact that part of his record collection is in the bar and he has guest DJ’s nightly spinning records.  All that and the drinks are really solid.
Some others I’ve enjoyed — Bar Clacson, The Wolves, Employees Only, Death and Co. (yes I know it’s brand new.. but it was really great my first visit during their soft opening), Melrose Umbrella Co., The Roger Room, The Daily Pint, Here & Now
MUSIC
The way I get away from the stress of work and the news cycle that never ends is going to live shows.  And I went to way too many over the past year.  But I wanted to check out as many venues as I could down here.  I still haven’t been to a few — namely The Roxy and Whisky a Go Go.  But here are a few of my favorite shows.
The Roots — Hollywood Bowl.  I’ve seen them a few times but this was by far the group at its best.  Black Thought did a crazy 5-10 minute medley of hip hop songs that was something I’ve never seen before.  
Anderson.Paak — The Forum.  I feel fortunate every time I get to see Anderson and the Free Nationals.  I’m pretty sure he’s the artist I’ve seen the most in my life.  His show at the Forum was amazing — hometown, so many great guest appearances.  I continue to say he is the best live show going today.
Chris Cornell Tribute Show — The Forum.  I was bummed when this sold out, and then magically, a few tickets went on sale a day or two before the concert.  Chris Cornell was one of my favorite lead singers of all-time.  And the show was 5-5 1/2 hours of amazing tributes.
Prophets of Rage - The Mayan.  My mind was blown.  This group, which is now disbanded with the return of Rage Against the Machine, was exactly what I thought — a mix of Rage, Public Enemy and Cypress — all in a cohesive and awesome group.
Also loved Herbie Hancock at the Bowl, Childish Gambino at the Forum, Big KRIT in the OC, my first time seeing JID and Vince Staples, The Raconteurs, two amazing groups - Bikini Kill and Sleater Kinney and finally getting to see Carlos Santana.  And there was really so much more. Yes I go to a lot of shows.
It’s been a fun year down in LA.  Yes, I still love the Bay and miss my family and friends.  But meeting new people down here and making new friends has been a lot of fun.  Excited to see what 2020 has in store for me.
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keith-mizuguchi · 5 years
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Life in L.A.
It feels just like yesterday when I was moving into my apartment, starting a new job, getting acquainted with a new city. Time goes by pretty quick.  Life is good in Los Angeles and I really love it more than I ever thought I would.  For those who don’t know, I’m still in the news business and still in radio.  I’m blessed to have landed on my feet at KNX - still learning the ropes, and trying not to get run over.  The pace of news down here seems like it’s light speed compared to everywhere else.  But it’s been a fun ride so far.  Even though it seems like just the opposite, I’m not actually eating out that much and exploring the food and drink scene - I really wish I could do more.  But it’s still in my opinion the best place for anyone who loves food and drinks as much as I do.  Hope to start writing a bit more about it come the new year.  Have gone to a few shows, a Dodgers game, a Lakers game, explored a few places here and there.  But there’s so much more to do.  It’s part of the wonders of this area - you never get tired of trying something new.
I know L.A. gets a bad rap from folks in the Bay Area, but from what I’ve experienced it’s completely unwarranted.  Sure there are assholes down here, just like anywhere else.  But there are so many wonderful people too. The good far, far outweighs the bad.
Moving to a new city is always daunting and there’s going to be some trepidation, but I’m glad to call L.A. home.  I miss all my friends and family from the Bay, but now I know I have two homes - and that’s a good thing.  Excited for what’s ahead in 2019.  Cheers and Happy Holidays!
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keith-mizuguchi · 6 years
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Some Personal News…
I’m not good at this and was even worse when telling people in person.  My co-workers can attest to that after today.  But I’m leaving my KCBS family and the Bay Area.  
I really felt like it was just time for a change and to do something new.  I’ve lived in the Bay Area my whole life and love it.  But I’m not getting any younger and  felt it was the right time to try L.A., a place that has grown near and dear to me in my many visits.  Sometimes, you just have to take a chance - that’s what this is.  I will always love the Bay, my friends and family.  But it’s on to a new adventure.  More updates soon. And would love to see anyone and everyone before I take off.  I won't be a stranger.  
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keith-mizuguchi · 7 years
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Journalism
What do we do?  That’s probably a question that has been asked by many a journalist over the past few months.  Donald Trump’s victory and the early days of his presidency are proving to be one of the most unique times in history for the industry. So what should they do?
What Steve Bannon said in an interview recently with the New York Times is absolutely correct and should not be taken as an insult.  He said media is “the opposition party.”  That’s exactly as it should be in covering every world leader.  By opposition, that does not mean we disagree with leaders, but that we question them and hold them accountable for their words and actions.  The role of media is to write about government leaders in an honest way, whether that story is viewed as positive or negative.  Not everyone is going to like it.  But if we don’t ask those “tough” questions, then the media is acting as a state-run entity as seen in many dictatorships and authoritarian ruling parties across the globe, spewing out enthusiastic praise for the ruling leader and his/her party.  That doesn’t mean journalists should do hit pieces that run afoul of facts and the truth.  That’s part of why trust in media is seemingly at an all-time low.  But it does mean that we are a source of checks and balances, like other government branches.  Yes, it’s alright to call a lie a lie.  It’s our duty to call out statements that may be false or contradict previous ones.  And if a person in power doesn’t feel it’s necessary to answer the question, ask it again and again until it does get answered.
Journalism doesn’t need to be opinion-based. It needs to be factual.  Leave the opinions for the talking heads on all these panels that seemingly run 24-7 on cable news networks.  Journalists have always worked to develop sources, worked to uncover the truth, despite whatever roadblocks are put in front of them, worked to inform the public.  That can’t be lost.
Despite what many will argue, there is so much great journalism out there.  Stories that have been well sourced, investigated to the fullest.  It is my hope that journalistic organizations continue to find room for these types of endeavors. Readers obviously want that as subscriptions are up seemingly across the board for newspapers and websites, even though we’ve heard for years about the “death of newspapers.” Long-form journalism doesn’t often get the clicks that so many news websites require these days.  It’s not catchy, it’s not “sexy.”  But it is the journalism that often matters the most.  In the hustle and bustle of fighting for ratings, clicks, being the first to report a story (and not caring about accuracy), there is something satisfying about seeing a well thought out story come together.
My hope, and it’s not just with journalists but society as a whole.  That we listen more.  You may not agree with Republicans, you may not agree with Democrats, but at least listen to their point of view.  Open your mind to differing opinions.  You may think it’s compete BS and that’s okay.  But gaining perspective on an opposing point of view is important.  There are such great divides in society - political, racial, religious, you name it.  But being able to understand where people are coming from can really help.  
I love to write and I’m curious.  I think those are too great qualities to have as a journalist. And as a journalist I ask, please don’t lose hope and faith in journalism.  
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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Why Loco’l is Oakland Through and Through
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Employees’ heads are bopping up and down as everything from Anderson.Paak to Tupac rings out from the speaker system.  There’s a slight break with some smooth jazz or an R&B classic from the Motown era. The place is buzzing, and it’s not just a new restaurant buzz.  You can picture the scene on repeat any given day or night. This is what restaurants are meant to be - a gathering place for the community.  This is Loco’l.
The idea was building, says Chef Roy Choi.  He and Chef Daniel Patterson teamed up following a series of events and “moments” as they look to revolutionize how fast food is made and consumed in this country.  The two chefs have cooked in kitchens across the globe, from fine dining to food trucks, but it has taken all of their talent and experience just to craft a working menu at Loco’l.  See, it’s healthy, nourishing fast food.  You’re not going to see french fries drenched in oil or burgers packed with fat and grease.  “We’re thinking about the people we’re feeding.  We’ve got all sorts of stuff on the horizon. We’re never going to stop changing,” Patterson said in front of the second location in Uptown Oakland.  “We’ll keep core items that are signatures, but we’ll always evolve.”  Sure, the menu has burgers, a fried chicken sandwich and chicken nuggets - but how about crushed tofu and veggie stew or barbecue turkey “foldies” (think quesedillas).  And the best part - it’s all reasonably priced, with the most expensive items at $7.
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Describing Loco’l as just a restaurant is a disservice to what Choi and Patterson have started.  This is a movement, an idea that has blossomed into bettering the communities where the restaurants are established.  The hiring process keeps Loco’l local.  A community liaison was hired in Oakland to play an important role - to go out into the community, talk to residents and find out what they wanted, what was important to them, and to hear some of their concerns.  Hiring people, mostly young people, mainly from East Oakland, you get a sense that the staff takes pride in the restaurant, the ethos, and what they are providing for the community.  “Our staff is a huge part of it, let’s not ever forget that.  Feeling that energy, it’s informing (our customers) of something that they’ve been wanting to talk about for a long time,” Choi said.  This is the Oakland from year’s past - a place that was inclusionary, that didn’t see things like skin color and sexual orientation as a barrier, rather it wanted to break through any boundaries.  
That’s what really resonates at Loco’l is how open it is to everyone.  Even though Chef Choi and Patterson are quick to point out that this is much, much bigger than just them, their names lend credence in the food world.  So the restaurant is sure to draw in the food-obsessed culture that wants to try fast food from these two famed chefs.  But it’s also going to bring in people that are just looking for a quality meal that is inexpensive from all parts of the city.  Sure, Uptown Oakland is much more gentrified these days, but can’t you just imagine the word spreading from employees and people experiencing the vibe that soon enough, it will be filled by people from East Oakland, West Oakland and Fruitvale as well?  And those are the types of communities that have already embraced the first Loco’l location in the Watts neighborhood of Los Angeles.  “They love it,” said Choi about the Watts community.  “But the reality in Watts is that a lot of people literally don’t have money.  They want to eat there everyday, but sometimes they can’t afford to, even with how low our prices are.  It gives you a little snapshot into reality.”  And that has long been the problem with lower-income communities.  How do you provide fresh, high-quality and healthy food for the people who live there, something that other communities may take for granted?  And is Loco’l the answer?
“This is about our country which has failed large parts of our population, completely and utterly failed them,” Patterson said. “We want to start feeding people and hiring people, providing opportunities and pathways that didn’t exist before.  In most parts of the world, you can eat well inexpensively.  In America, for some reason you can’t - you can either eat well expensively or eat chemicals inexpensively, so there’s a hole here that doesn’t exist in other countries as much.”
I was born in Oakland but never lived in the city.  Maybe that’s part of the reason I root for Oakland and see the good rather than the bad, which is what most media seems to focus on. When I think about Oakland, the first thing that comes to mind is diversity.  Walk by neighborhood restaurants and bars, and you’ll see the people that make up that community - black, white, Asian, Hispanic, it really doesn’t matter.  Restaurants and bars have always been gathering spots, welcoming to each and every person.  Even with transplants moving across the bay from San Francisco, there is a real sense of pride among residents.  This is their city, their neighborhoods, their restaurants and bars - from artists to dock workers to tech folks, this is diversity personified.
Now, some of that diversity has been pushed aside with the huge increase in rent and escalating housing prices, along with more and more companies moving to the East Bay.   Certain neighborhoods have certainly seen more gentrification than others.  Longtime residents have been forced to move, not able to keep up with the rising costs to live in Oakland.  So where does Loco’l fit into this ever-changing picture?  It’s a little of both worlds - the old school nature of being welcoming to all, and the new school hip factor.  And I think that Choi and Patterson understand that.  Uptown is certainly not Watts, but it is also not Manhattan or the Financial District of San Francisco either.  There is more money now than ever before in this community, but there is also a grounded nature, a respect, and a feeling that yes, people are still concerned about the some of the simple things in life.
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Loco’l is part of the community but not only that, the people working there are giving back and proud to provide to their friends and fellow residents.  Seeing the smiles in the kitchen and the rest of the staff, you get a sense that they are not only proud to work there, but also proud to be part of something bigger, something lasting.  The service feels genuine, not forced at all, and I think that’s all you can ask for in the restaurant industry.  This is a food movement but even more so, a cultural statement.  Talking about changing the norm is one thing - actually doing something is much harder.  But that’s exactly what Daniel Patterson, Roy Choi and the Loco’l crew are doing. Get ready world.
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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Why Does the “Yes Chef” Mentality Still Exist?
One of the most uncomfortable and awkward feelings is going into a place of business and seeing or hearing a supervisor or employer berating their co-worker.  It’s one of the moments you just want to slink away as fast as you can.  Having been on both ends, I hated them equally.  I never wanted to be the boss that had to yell at employees, or the employee that got yelled at by my boss.  But I understand that it happens.  
((A note before writing - I have never worked in a professional kitchen.  This is based on years of observation, seeing how kitchens operate, seeing the interactions that are taking place.))
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In the kitchen, the “Yes Chef” mentality has existed for decades.  The idea that cooks answer “yes chef” to every question or direction from a chef.  It created a hierarchy in the workplace that was not to be messed with.  But it also entitled abusive behavior in the kitchen.  Chefs yelling and screaming at their cooks, showing them little to no respect.  Yes, there obviously needs to be some level of accountability and discipline in the professional workplace.  But there also needs to be compassion for your fellow employees.  Abusive behavior should never be tolerated, never be thought of as okay, or treated as the norm.  
In my experiences in observing kitchens here in the Bay Area, I have noticed very little of this behavior.  Even in the most stressful and demanding kitchens, where orders upon orders are  constantly coming in, there is a peaceful craziness taking place.  It’s even more remarkable because most kitchen spaces in San Francisco are small, tight areas that can barely fit three or four cooks.  Yet there they are, cooking in a confined, diminutive space, putting out plates of food almost as fast as they are ordered.
What brought me to this point of thinking about the “yes chef” mentality was a recent dining experience at a well-renowned San Francisco restaurant.  I sat at the counter in front of the open kitchen prepared to enjoy what I hoped would be a great meal.  As a frequent solo diner, I really enjoy the open kitchen environment in San Francisco restaurants, as it allows diners a chance to hear and see everything - the way the kitchen operates, the camaraderie that takes place, the teamwork and machine-like efficiency.  It is normally a lot of fun to watch.  
In this recent night out, the chef was running the pass, calling out orders rather frantically as they came in.  Cooks shouted responses of what dishes they were responsible for.  Pretty much the norm in a fast-pace environment.  The big difference - when the chef started tasting the dishes that were coming out.  Dishes were handed back, orders became louder and more frantic, than the f-bombs started.  First about communicating with each other, than the quality of the dishes.  I really thought something was going to get thrown at one point.  The chef stormed off and loudly stomped the floor, clearly having lost his cool.  This shouting and chiding continued for a good 10-15 minutes.  I quickly glanced at the other diners that were sitting at the counter to see if they had any reaction, but no one seemed put off by this.  My first impulse was to watch how the cooks worked throughout the rest of my meal. They seemed a bit down, but continued to do their work.  There was more “yes chef” responses, perhaps with more purpose. They also didn’t seem at all surprised by the chef’s demeanor change.  
I finished my meal, thanked my server and briskly walked out.  It wasn’t until I was walking back to BART that I truly pondered what I had just witnessed.  It was by far the worst behavior I have seen from a chef in person in my life.  It was cowardly, childish and completely unprofessional.  I was embarrassed.  While the food and service was terrific that night, my lasting impression was seeing the anger in the chef’s face and hearing the venom in his voice.  
But is there really anything abnormal about this behavior?  Even though I had never seen it myself, I have heard the horror stories of chefs berating their cooks.  I guess it shouldn’t come as a complete surprise.  But then I think about all that is troubling the restaurant industry right now - low wages, long hours, long commutes, bad bosses - and it all makes sense where we are at, why restaurants are struggling to find and keep good cooks, and why the burnout factor is such a problem in the industry.
Do I completely fault the chef in this case? This person is obviously a perfectionist and has lofty goals for the restaurant.  And no matter how frantic things may seem to be in a kitchen, tasting dishes before they head out is the norm in most restaurants.  So I can see his points.  But did he take the right tact in dealing with the issues?  That’s always going to be a question in the kitchen - how far is too far when it comes to abusive behavior.  I tend to err on the side of any abuse is too much abuse.  Most of the best restaurants I’ve been to have a cohesion and symmetry in their kitchen, where problems that may arise throughout service are quickly and seamlessly solved.  There is almost an unspoken understanding between the kitchen team.  I don’t know if there’s really an answer to this type of abusive behavior - there’s often very few checks and balances for chefs. But I hope one day, we’ll be talking only about the food, and not the f-bombs coming out of a kitchen.  
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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Bringing a Modern Touch to Chinatown at Mister Jiu’s
Walk down Waverley Place, one of the narrow alleyways littered through San Francisco’s Chinatown neighborhood, and you’ll find a handful of storefronts and restaurants.  Missing is the bustle from the markets and stores on the neighborhood’s busiest streets, where tourists are intermingled with residents, many immigrants from mainland China.  But the quiet, benign two-block street could be the center of the revitalization of a once vibrant nighttime scene.
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Walk through the door at Chef Brandon Jew’s restaurant Mister Jiu’s and it’s unlike anything “old-time” Chinatown has to offer.  You’ll be greeted by a long, beautifully designed bar that would fit in any contemporary restaurant.  With large windows looking out onto the neighborhood, the dining room almost feels as if it is a floating look at history and modern times.  A massive open kitchen has chefs and cooks from all different cultures.  The image of an angry, older Chinese cook behind a steaming hot wok this is not.    
I hate the word authentic when it comes to describing food and many will make the claim that Chef Jew’s food is not authentic at all - I disagree wholeheartedly.  This is his cooking.  It feels like he has taken some of what he grew up with, what his family ate and cooked, and incorporated his own training as a chef - the modern touches that you would likely not see at older Chinese restaurants, but that define San Francisco cuisine.  Take his lotus root salad for example.  There is so much complexity to this dish, one bite may include the citrus and sour of the cara cara oranges, or the understated sweetness from the almond jello, all meshed with the crunchiness of the lotus root.  While an item like the Cheong Fun seems traditional, the addition of uni as an ingredient gives it that California feel.  Even the Tea-Smoked Duck uses tortillas rather than a rice paper wrapping or steamed bun to wrap up the succulent pieces of duck.  It’s a brand new restaurant, less than a month old, so working out the kinks in terms of both service and menu items will take some time.  But going in with an open mind will allow diners to enjoy Chef Jew’s unique and fresh take on modern day Chinese food.
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Perhaps more important than the food and the cache that this talented kitchen brings with it is the cultural impact that the restaurant could have on the neighborhood.  Jonathan Kaufman wrote an excellent piece about this for the San Francisco Chronicle.  Restaurants like Z&Y, R&G Lounge and House of Nanking remain as popular as ever.  But there have been very few new restaurants that have opened over the last five years in Chinatown.  Combine that with the fact that some of the standby spots have closed, and that makes for a stale, languishing environment.  The area still draws plenty of tourists - walk down Grant Avenue on any day of the week and there will likely be a single file line of folks walking down both sides of the street.  But aside from the tourist factor, is there anything that draws people, particularly locals, to Chinatown?  More than the food, more than the ambience, more than the coolness factor, that’s what Mister Jiu’s can be.  A place where you can get really interesting and unique food in a beautiful setting, but also where the neighborhood can join in to celebrate this fresh, updated version of what Chinese cuisine can become.  When visiting neighborhoods like Chinatown, that are so steeply drenched in tradition and culture, seeking out where expats are eating can often lead you to the best food finds.  Mister Jiu’s is a place not just for food-lovers and tourists, but for this neighborhood, at a time when it really needs it.
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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Taco Maria
It was as if I had been transported to a small Mexican village, with a giant open fire in the center of town, where they grow their own corn, catch their own fish, throw huge feasts.  Yet, it was all located in a mall in Costa Mesa.
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What makes a great restaurant?  Usually, it is a pretty straightforward answer - the food, service, wine and drinks, ambience or a combination of all of the above.  But when pondering what made Taco Maria so unique and outstanding, I really had no answer.  The only thing I could come up with - the fish tasted Mexican, if that makes any sense.
Carlos Salgado’s fine dining background is evident in how he has crafted his menu, the composition of his dishes, the discernible details that are on display in the open kitchen.  Perhaps of greater importance is his inspiration and commitment to that vision.
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Service is outstanding from start to finish, not overly doting, but also punctual.  I was never waiting for silverware, for a refill on a drink, to clear a plate.  But nothing is rushed either.  Sitting at the counter in front of the open kitchen, the cooks were also hospitable, asking about my meal from time-to-time.  More importantly, they looked like they enjoyed what they were doing, which isn’t always the case in every kitchen.  
The food coming out of the kitchen is quite simply spectacular.  It is Mexican cuisine that touches on all the senses.  It gives you a broader sense of Chef Salgado’s upbringing, of the Mexican food he grew up eating, all with the fine dining techniques he has acquired in the lead-up to running his own restaurant.  Every ingredient has a purpose, nothing is wasted.  The meat and fish were cooked to perfection, but it wasn’t that simple.  Every sauce, every accoutrement had a role in the overall dining experience.
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It’s rare to be so excited about eating at a restaurant and for it to live up to every expectation, but that was the case at Taco Maria.  It may be a bit of a drive from Los Angeles, especially on a weekday during the afternoon commute, but it is worth every minute you’re stuck in traffic.  So what really does make a great restaurant?   Visit Taco Maria and you’ll find the answer.    
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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I Tap Out...
Today, 2 1/2 days into my Southern California eating frenzy, i officially had to say “uncle.” It was somewhere between the tsukemen at Tsujita and lunch in Venice at Leona’s that I wanted to just crawl up in a ball and be done with food -forever. I walked for awhile in Venice, then walked some more in Santa Monica.  Hours and hours passed before I could even think about sitting down at the one place that I really wanted to try, Rustic Canyon, which by the way is a terrific restaurant.  I have one more day but I reached my threshold - it’s good to know I’m not just a bottomless pit of food consumption after all. 
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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L.A. Food Continued...
When I left off, I had already eaten way too much.  But after walking around in downtown Los Angeles, I made the worst decision - making a stop at Grand Central Market.  The Market is an amazing collection of food stalls and vendors, all selling their wares. You really can get almost anything you are looking to eat. The crowds at lunchtime make for claustrophobic aisles and long lines, particularly at the most popular spots - like Eggslut.  
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It’s basically a wet dream for egg lovers.  The Slut is a coddled egg on top of potato puree, poached in a glass jar with gray salt and chives.  In brief, in it perfection. I think Grand Central Market is a wonderful gathering spot in downtown, just go in off-time hours.
I thankfully had a few hours to kill before headed off to the craziness that is Animal.   Although Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have gone on to open other restaurants in Los Angeles, their first is still a unique, must-try experience.  You’re not going to see the norm on the menu, but that’s how they like it.  Where else can you get Veal Brains, Foie Gras Biscuits & Gravy, and really so much more.  It’s a menu that allows items to be shared, and is for the adventurous.  That’s what makes it fun.  
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A good end to my official day one.
Breakfast was a no-go for me on Friday as it appeared I was still in a food coma. But that didn’t stop the adventures.
Republique on South La Brea Avenue was on my list for breakfast spots to try, so instead I went for lunch.  I absolutely loved the service and style of the restaurant.  Everything is ordered before sitting down and then you find open seats at one of the many communal tables inside. I’ve always thought this would be the future of restaurants - where there is really no need for servers, just people to bus the tables.  The restaurant itself was beautiful, with high ceilings - the architecture actually reminded me of the inside of a church.
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There is a breakfast menu served until 3 P.M., and lunch and dinner menus.  The food is really terrific - hearty with wonderful textures and flavors.  
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And then there was Baroo.  To describe this place - it’s like a very, very small laboratory in a tiny little strip mall. There’s no sign, and it’s right next to a 7-11. Jars of fermented ingredients are strewn all over the restaurant, pasta noodles sit on top of what looks like a mini-fridge, cookies are on a baking sheet on top of another small cabinet.  While this all seems a bit haphazard, magic comes out of the kitchen.   Chef and owner Kwang Uh is creating food that resonates, that you would expect in Michelin restaurants, all in a very casual setting. 
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It’s hard to describe and it may look strange, but it is something that you likely haven’t experienced before, and that you’ll want to experience again. 
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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L.A. Food Day One....
Got in late Wednesday night and the absolute abomination that was my rental car experience forced me to stop for a late, late dinner.  I chose Koreatown mainly because everything stays open late down there.  It is a pretty interesting crowd late at night.  Had Korean BBQ at Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong.  Nothing really blew me away... it was all very good and the service was really great.  I can see why the drinking crowds hang out down in this area.
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After a later than expected wake-up call, I decided to head out for breakfast - per this NY Times article, Los Angeles is a city with many great spots for breakfast and brunch. From the exterior, you wouldn’t know the special things coming out of kitchen from Chef Jessica Koslow - other than the long line that likely awaits at Sqirl. The food is sensational, with vibrant flavors jumping off each plate. The Ricotta Toast is overflowing with ricotta.  But the star is the toast itself - slightly burned, it gives the dish more oomph. Oh, and be sure to add one of the housemade jams.
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The Sorrel Pesto Rice Bowl just had so much going on.  Oftentimes when that happens, flavors can get lost or compromised.  But the mix here - whether it was the radish, feta, preserved lemon or poached egg - it was the perfect combination of both textures and flavors.
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Lunch took me downtown to the beautiful and stunning Redbird.  Pictures can’t do this restaurant justice - it is a real stunner.  Food was great, topped by the wonderful service. The staff here seems to be on top of every little detail, and it shows. 
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Had to walk around after all the eating, and get my stomach ready for what’s to come. To be continued...
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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Kendrick... and Hip Hop
My co-worker always asks me why I don’t write about music, particularly since I go to so many live shows. So this one’s for you Larry.
I grew up listening to R&B and Hip Hop.  Don’t really know why, but for the most part, my love for those two genres has stayed with me most of my life.  I loved 80′s and 90′s rap music - that was a different era and there were so many different styles and flows.  The lyricism and intricate rhyme schemes were so on point. And perhaps more important, there was a message behind the music.
Eventually, and I’m not quite sure if there was a specific moment, but rap music changed, for the worse. It became commercialized, radio-friendly, almost to the point of calling it pop music.  There were these catchy hooks, auto tune, deafening bass, rather than a real message behind what was being said. I’m not dissing people who like these artists - I think people like Drake, Big Sean, Future and the scores of other “popular” rappers nowadays have a ton of talent and I respect them.  But that doesn’t necessarily mean I seek out their music when I’m trying to find something to listen to.
Of all the current artists, the one that gives me hope that we can get back to “the golden era” of hip hop is Kendrick Lamar.   I’m a huge fan, have seen him live three times, including on his last, short tour - “The Kunta’s Groove Session.”  The show was mesmerizing, he played mostly from his latest album, “To Pimp A Butterfly” and the really unique part is he had a backing band.  So that jazz and funk that emanates throughout the album was right in front of us, live and on stage.  He was more personal than at previous shows. He showed real emotion; it was almost as if the weight of producing this body of work was lifted from his shoulders that night.  It sent chills down my spine.
Kendrick’s music is not radio-friendly.  Sure, he has a few hits from “Good Kid, M.A.A.D. City” that are staples on hip hop stations.  It doesn’t have to be, because his millions of fans respect his lyricism, respect his style, respect him being him.  He’s telling us a story, his story, and it’s all so very personal.
You don’t have to love or even like hip hop. I know a lot of people who don’t and I get it.  It’s not for everyone. But if you want to see it’s roots unfold in the present day, listen to Kendrick, J Cole, Big KRIT, Joey Badass. They help bridge the gap from the past to the present, and build on the legacy of legends of the past.
Part of the reason for this was Kendrick’s performance at the Grammys this week.  But I also heard some negative comments in general about his music.  Music is one of those things where it’s impossible to compare eras - just like sports.  I honestly don’t know if I would put Kendrick in my list of Top 10 MC’s; in fact I’m fairly certain I wouldn’t.  But comparing him to people like Tupac, Nas, Rakim, KRS-One would be like comparing rock bands nowadays to Zeppelin and The Stones and The Beatles. Instead of comparing or trying to figure out where a certain artist fits in the list of performers in his or her genre, just sit back, put your headphones on and enjoy.  Because that’s truly what music should be about. 
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keith-mizuguchi · 8 years
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An introduction...
Hello and welcome to my new and hopefully improved blog.  I’ll be writing a lot about food, in many cases more detailed versions of the stories I am helping produce at KCBS.  They have been painstakingly time consuming and I’m not sure we’re able to fit all of the information into each report, so I hope to paint a broader picture of some of the interesting topics that are going on in the food world here in the Bay Area.
Every so often, I’ll have a restaurant review or two.  I’m not a professional critic, but feel like I have a pretty good sense of what makes a great restaurant. I hope to write extensively about my travels, which are unfortunately few and far between.  But most of my trips involve food in some fashion or form.  It’s interesting to me to travel to different parts of the U.S. and see what is going on in their food scene.  There are so many up and coming cities - it’s not just New York, the Bay Area, and Chicago anymore. Food is part of our culture, it can help define neighborhoods, regions, cities.  
Along with food, my other true passion is music.  I go to a lot of festivals, although I am getting way too old for them.  I love seeing live music - it is a great release for me.  I don’t plan on reviewing concerts, but will throw in some thoughts on music every once in awhile and if I see someone amazing, will definitely write it up.
I may also toss in a few musings from the news and sports world as well.  But I am hoping to keep the website more updated then my last venture.  Any comments or suggestions - please feel free to pass them along.  Hope you all enjoy!
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